Tod s Footsteps Bundi and beyond. Ajanta and Ellora Caves UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Indian Handlooms Fashionable Avtaar. Enigmatic Shekhawati

A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 72 Vol IV Issue 3 March 2011 ` 50 Tod’s Footsteps Bundi and beyond Ajanta and Ellora Caves UNESCO World Heritage Sites Ind...
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A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 72 Vol IV Issue 3 March 2011 ` 50

Tod’s Footsteps Bundi and beyond

Ajanta and Ellora Caves UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Indian Handlooms Fashionable Avtaar

Enigmatic Shekhawati

an

INDIAN Publisher

SanJeet

Editor

Rupali Narasimhan

Assistant Editor

Jahnavi Sarma

Dy Assistant Editor

Nidhi Raj Singh

Design

Alpana Khare Neeraj Aggarwal Neeraj Nath

Advertising

Gunjan Sabikhi Harshal Ashar N. Sanjiba Singh Prem Sagar

Production Manager

Anil Kharbanda

Circulation Manager

Ashok Rana

where one lifetime of discovery falls short

journey A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 72 Vol IV Issue 1I1 March 2011

Cover: Ravi Bajaj’s collection against the backgrop of Bundi Fort

Durga Das Publications Private Limited New Delhi : 72, Todarmal Road, New Delhi 110001, India Tel: +91-11-23731971, 23710793, 23716318, Fax: +91-11-23351503 E-mail: [email protected] Mumbai: 504 Marine Chambers, 43 New Marine Lines, Mumbai 400 020 Tel: +91-22-22070129, 22070130 Fax: +91-22-22070131 E-mail: [email protected] UAE: P.O. Box: 9348, Sharjah, UAE Tel: +971-6-5573508, Fax: +971-6-5573509 E-mail: [email protected] All information in An Indian Journey is derived from sources, which we consider reliable. Information is passed on to our readers without any responsibility on our part. The contents of this publication contain views of authors and are not the views of Durga Das Publications. Similarly, opinions/views expressed by any party in abstract and/or in interviews are not necessarily shared/do not necessarily reflect any opinion of Durga Das Publications. All rights reserved throughout the world. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Material appearing in An Indian Journey cannot be reproduced in whole or in part without prior written permission. The same rule applies when there is a copyright or the article is taken from another publication. Publications reproducing material either in part or in whole, without permission would face legal action. Editorial enquiries and enquiries concerning the reproduction of articles, advertising and circulation should be e-mailed at [email protected] The publisher assumes no responsibility for returning unsolicited material nor is he responsible for material lost or damaged in transit. Any material submitted to An Indian Journey will not be returned. The publisher reserves the rights to refuse, withdraw, amend or otherwise deal with all advertisements without explanation. All advertisements must comply with the Indian Advertisements Code as well as the Advertisements Code of South Asia. The publisher will not be liable for any damage or loss caused by the late publication, error or failure or advertisement or editorial to appear. An Indian Journey is printed, published and owned by SanJeet, 72, Todarmal Road, New Delhi -110001 and is printed at Cirrus Graphics Private Limited, B-62/14, Phase - II, Naraina Industrial Area, New Delhi - 110028

Dear Reader, This is the time to rejoice as flowers bloom and the world comes back to life after the chill of winters. This is the time for festivals and rejuvenation of the spirit. We have tried to capture the essence of spring in this issue with a trip down the lanes of Shekhawati where the past comes alive in the frescoed walls of old havelis and by retracing the steps of James Tod, who charted and surveyed the Mewar region of erstwhile Rajputana. The enchanting Ajanta and Ellora caves can mesmerise and to witness the glory of the past, just visit our heritage section for a glimpse of the magnificent sculptures and art of ancient caves. Alternatively, join us for a visit to the magnificent marvel in marble, the Bahá’í Temple of Worship, which is an ode to modern architectural splendour or soak in the festival of colours, Holi this month and celebrate the advent of spring. The birds of India are all set to take our wildlife enthusiasts on a flight of fantasy and our special section on the fashion scene of India highlights how handloom has become much more fashionable than ever. All this is in addition to our regular pages on deals, reviews and focus. Read on for a truly wholesome Indian experience.

Contents

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DREAM DESTINATION Take an off road to follow the footsteps of James Tod through eastern Rajasthan

FASHION FRENZY Handlooms of India take a new avatar and become high on fashion quotient

HERITAGE HIGH Take a tour of the mesmerising sculptures, sketches and massive structures of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Ajanta and Ellora caves

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KITCH ART Indian contemporary art goes global with the right blend of modernity and ‘Indianness’

ARCHITECTURE ALLURE The beautiful lotus of the Bahá’í Temple unfolds to showcase modern marvel

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ROYAL STAY Unwind with the painted frescos of the havelis of Shekhawati in Rajasthan

FLYING wILD Indulge in bird watching as winged species of resident and migratory aves captivate your fantasy

FESTIVAL FERVOUR Holi, the festival of colours, calls one and all for the celebration

Regular Features 10 66

IN FOCUS Updates, events and launches

HOT SPOTS Latest deals and packages from hotels

Arattupuzha Pooram

MArCh 2011

March 18 Celebrated at Arattupuzha temple dedicated to Lord Ayyappa in Thrissur district of Kerala, it is 7-day festival. It is believed that 101 gods and goddesses of neighbouring villages visited Lord Ayyappa on this day. A group of elephants and musicians perform in front of the temple along with an elephant pageant held on the 6th day.

Jaipur Elephant Festival March 19 Annual festival celebrated in Jaipur, Rajasthan with rows of elephants doing a ‘catwalk’ before an audience. It is celebrated one day before Holi at Chaugan Stadium. A ceremonial procession is recreated with caparisoned elephants, dancers on horses, chariots, camels, cannons and palanquins.

International Yoga F estival March 1-7 7-day yoga festival is organised by Parmarth Niketan Ashram in Rishikesh. The festival is open to everyone with accommodation provided at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram under festive packages. Event includes 100 hours of Yoga classes from renowned Yoga teachers, evening discussions etc. Contact: [email protected]

Holi March 20 The festival of colours is celebrated all over north India and with great vigour at Mathura, Vrindavan and Barsana in Uttar Pradesh. Foreign tourists are especially interested in the festival and visit the birthplace of Lord Krishna, Nandgaon for it.

Goa Carnival March 5-8 Started as a local feast by the Portuguese in the 18th century, it has developed into the state’s most famous event. During the festival, the streets come alive with parades, music and masked dances. The carnival moves from city to city (Panaji, Margao, Vasco and Mapusa) in Goa.

Thirunakkara Arattu March 15-24 10-day annual temple festival of Kerala celebrated at Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple in Kottayam District. Decorated elephants accompanied by drummers and performers carry temple god to be bathed in a procession. Kathakali dancers perform through the night on third and fourth day along with folk arts such as Mayilattom (peacock dance) in temple.

Holla Mohalla March 20 A Sikh festival celebrated annually a day after Holi. Hola ‘Mohalla’ derives its name from Punjabi word ‘Mohalla’ that implies an organised procession. This 3-day festival is held at Anandpur Sahib and Kiratpur Sahib in Punjab. Martial arts parades are followed by poetry readings and music.

APrIL 2011

Bohag Bihu April 14-15 The biggest festival of Assam, it is celebrated over many days. Sports, special Bihu songs and dance and fairs are a part of celebrations. Bihu dance is a vigorous, captivating dance form reflecting the spirit of youth and vitality.

world Heritage Day April 18 It is observed as an opportunity to raise people’s awareness of the diversity of cultural heritage and efforts that are required to protect and conserve them. It was an initiation by bodies like ICOMOS (International Council for Monuments and Sites) and UNESCO.

Mewar Festival, Udaipur April 6-8 Celebrated to welcome the advent of spring, where ceremonial procession is taken out through the city. It ends at the Gangaur Ghat at Lake Pichhola. The images are transferred to special boats amid festivity.

Ram Navami April 12 Celebrated all over India, it marks the birthday of Lord Ram, human incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Rathyatras or chariot processions of Ram, his wife Seeta, brother Lakshman and devotee Hanuman are taken out from many temples. People gather in thousands on the banks of the sacred river Sarayu at Ayodhya in Uttar Pradesh for a holy dip.

Baisakhi April 13 It marks the New Year in the Nanakshahi solar calendar. It is celebrated by people who follow Sikh religion. It is a harvest festival and celebrated by singing, dancing, fairs and special festivity marking the day.

Good Friday April 22 It marks the day when Jesus Christ was crucified. The day starts with rituals in the churches all over India and culminates with a ceremonial burial at midnight. Christians keep fast on this day.

Easter April 24 It marks the day when Jesus Christ rose from the dead and ascended into heaven. Easter eggs and Easter bunnies are a major attraction of this festival of rejuvenation of life and living.

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indian happenings

In Focus ‘A Beautiful Mind’ By Dozakh Comes To Rack From Ramp The designer label, Dozakh by designers Isha and Kartikeya, has unveiled their collection called ‘A Beautiful Mind’ retailed from their flagship store in Hauz Khas Village. This Spring Summer Collection 2011 was showcased at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week and hugely appreciated by the audience as well as fashion fraternity. The silhouette integrates romanticism of the preRaphaelite period where art was at its finest, but the glory was short lived. Intricately designed free flowing chiffons are broken by complex rushing, gathering and pin tucks. Ombre shades give way to strong shadow work hiding beneath the wistful folds of sheer fabric. Colour palate also include red and grey, quixotic off-whites, blood reds and shades of navy.

International Business Etiquette Grooming Sessions Across India Today, making connections with people with the correct mannerisms that is relevant in changing global competitive business is very important. Lifezone Training (UK), has now organised a grooming session in Chennai on March 10, in New Delhi on March 22 and in Hyderabad on March 30, 2011. The programme includes categories like Etiquette, Right Impression, Greeting and Introductions, Business Meeting Protocol and much more. Individuals and companies can enroll themselves online (lifezone@ lifezoneindia.com) and receive Delegate Booking Form by paying ` 6,950 plus service tax per participant for Mumbai and ` 7,850 plus service tax per participant for outside Mumbai. The fees include lunch, tea and course handout.

Eaton Hotels International To launch India’s First Transit Hotel Eaton Hotels International, a premium member of the international hotel operator, Langham Hospitality Group, is set to launch India’s first transit hotel called Eaton Smart in March 2011 at Terminal 3 of the Delhi Airport. This will also be Eaton Smart’s first property to be launched in India. The hotel is targetted at both international and domestic air travellers and will flag off the trend of transit hotels in India, which are very popular in evolved markets like America and Europe, as well as few Asian countries like Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and so on which witness heavy air traffic. The hotel is divided into two wings with 57 rooms available at the international wing and 36 rooms available at the domestic wing. Featuring a modern design and comfort, the rooms at the international terminal are reserved for transiting passengers or those who have cleared customs. Passengers travelling within India who present a valid ticket can access one of the 36 spacious rooms in the domestic wing of the T3. Passengers needing a pre-flight freshen up, or those with shorter stopovers, can make use of Eaton Smart’s innovative Aqua Pods, a unique wash and change facility at the airport. Sensibly stylish, both locations will feature a spa, gymnasium, E-points offering free internet access and a T Lounge serving a wide array of teas and alcoholic beverages as well as casual, all-day dining menus.

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Retrospective Exhibition Of The Works Of Anil Karanjai Like all major retrospectives of important artists, the proposed exhibitions of works by the late artist, Anil Karanjai(1940-2001), will explore and project the oeuvre of the artist and throw light on his lifelong achievements as well as his contribution to Indian and world art. It is presented by Asha’s Salon d’Art and Juliet Reynolds, art critic, wife of the artist and Managing Trustee, the Anil Karanjai Memorial Trust. In 1962, he co-founded United Artists. Their studio, named ‘Devil’s Workshop’, attracted artists, writers, poets and musicians from across India and abroad. The group established the first art gallery in Benaras in a rundown teashop called the Paradise Cafe. He was an active member of the Bengali radical group, the Hungry Generation, otherwise known as the Hungryalism Movement, composed in the main of writers and poets. The movement had close interaction with the Beat Generation poets. This was Anil Karanjai, the quintessentially antiestablishment artist recognised by the establishment, and honoured with a National Award by Dr L P Sihare, Director of both the National Museum and the National Gallery of Modern Art. Karanjai was a master draftsman and colourist and his potential mastery was already evident at a very early age. One of the main aims of the exhibitions will be to project his mastery over diverse media and to reveal the evolution of his enormous skills over a career spanning four decades. The exhibition will be held at the Palm Court Gallery, India Habitat Centre, from March 26 to April 2, 2011. It will present a selection of his drawings, portraits in dry pastel and charcoal, paintings in transparent and opaque water-colours, oil, conté, crayon, taking everyone through his early work that could be described as confrontational, to the work of later years that reflects the artist’s deep concerns as an environmental activist.

Jaya Utsav, Celebrating Living Traditions Of Mahabharata A month-long festival depicting the legacy of Mahabharata from every corner of the country, Jaya Utsav, is organised by Indra Gandhi National Centre for the Arts (An Autonomous body under Ministry of Culture, Govt of India). The festival will be on from February 10, 2011 to March 10, 2011 at IGNCA premises, New Delhi. The festival includes international symposium, literary evenings, cultural performances, ritual demonstrations, exhibition, master craftsmen workshop, film shows

Take A Piece Of India With You At Delhi Duty Free Delhi Duty Free Services (DDFS), India’s largest duty free retail space at T3 at IGI Airport in Delhi offers international travellers an opportunity to take a piece of India with them from the ‘Mini India’ section at the departures at T3. The entire collection of Indian products available at the departures is titled the ‘Discover India’ section. ‘Discover India’ offers a balanced mix of products such as Indian teas, spices, souvenirs, sweets, handicrafts, handmade paper, herbal cosmetics, handmade wooden toys, dry fruits, Indian meals (ready to eat), Cashmere shawls, handmade paper mache and wonderful flavours that India has to offer. Said Abhijit Das, Head-Marketing, DDFS, “The Discover India section has been designed to offer a variety of Indian products and brands to travellers who want to take with them a memoir from India. Indian products are extremely popular with travellers and being situated at the heart of India, it was important that we stock products that match Indian sensibilities. We are proud to have a fine selection of Indian teas from SANCHA, whose teas are the preferred choice of the India’s elite and dignitaries.” The ‘Discover India’ section also has a luxury collection of Indian shawls from a boutique called Ezma as well as pure Ayurvedic products by Kama Ayurveda and Forest Essentials. Besides this, one can also buy souvenirs of India in the form of magnets, mugs, decorative plates and card holders.

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and book fair. The visitors can also enjoy delicacies from the special food court named Bhim ki Rasoi. The festival celebrates the tradition of Mahabharata as it adapts and changes with every region and state of the country. From the Himalayas to Kerala, Mahabharata has various versions and is enacted or depicted by various folk art and performaces like singing, dancing and enactment. This festival brings together all the versions on one platform for people to enjoy and absorb the colours of this epic. The premise has stalls from various states such as Orissa, west Bengal, Rajasthan displaying their art and crafts.

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SOTC Launches Exclusive Summer Holidays Across India SOTC has announced the launch of the summer carnival of 2011 with an exclusive offer all across India, Nepal and Bhutan for just ` .9,999 per person on twin share basis. The packages offered by SOTC include Kashmir, Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Nepal, Bhutan, Eastern Himalayas, West Bengal, Andaman & Nicobar, Orissa, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Nilgiris, Karnataka, and Rajasthan. The inclusions for the packages are 5 nights / 6 days accommodation, breakfast, AC transport for transfer and sightseeing. SOTC is a pioneer in all segments, namely Escorted Tours, Free Individual Travel, and Domestic Holidays and NRI segment. SOTC Special Interest Tours is the leader in Incentive and Trade Fair tours and conferences with a large spectrum of corporate clients in almost all industry segments. SOTC Sports is a one-stop-shop for all travel arrangements to the desired sport event who has been voted the Best Outbound Tour Operator for the fifth time in a row at the Galileo Express TravelWorld Awards.

Deccan Charters,Taj Air Launch ‘Powerfly’ This is an alliance that combines aviation and hospitality leadership to deliver a one stop access to business aircraft from Jets to turboprops to helicopters. Deccan Charters, a leading aviation services company of India, and Taj Air, the executive charter service of IHCL, and Business Jets India (BJETS) recently announced a significant collaboration to launch a new alliance in the air charter industry called Powerfly. The collaboration will leverage the synergies of the three brands and their fleets. The collaboration includes a Marketing, Maintenance and Operational Support agreement between Deccan Charters and BJETS. The collaboration was announced in Mumbai in a joint press conference addressed by R K Krishna Kumar, Director, Tata Sons and Vice Chairman, Indian Hotels Company and Capt. G R Gopinath, Chairman and Managing Director, Deccan Charters Powerfly commenced operations from February 14, 2011. In accordance with the agreement, Deccan Charters will be the exclusive Marketing Concessionaire for BJETS aircraft in India and will work on developing, expanding and consolidating the market across the country through Powerfly. The combined fleet will be available through various programmes including adhoc charters and memberships, loyalty programmes that extend across all three brands and various hotels of Taj and membership options. Powerfly membership will provide a unique first of its kind solution where the customer can customise his own programme by mixing and matching from the wide choice of aircraft provided through the alliance.

Vintage Car Drive The recently held Vintage Car Drive at Select CITYWALK saw cars like Rolls Royce, Mercedes Benz, Hummer, Jaguar, Old Chevrolet, Ampala, 47 48 Mgtc.Vintage and classic car lovers of Delhi, in their endeavour to provide a forum for preserving and further promoting the automotive heritage of India, have formally launched Automotive Heritage Trust (AHT), which is a non-profit organisation. It has been formed to stimulate and support interest in the restoration, preservation and enjoyment of vintage and classic motorcars and two wheelers. AHT aims to encourage people with an interest in such cars and two wheelers on a world-wide basis. All members are united by a common interest: the engineering ideals and high standards of craftsmanship of the timeless machines. Cars belonging to AHT members have been displayed in AUTO EXPO 2002, 2004 and 2006 organised by Confederation of Indian Industry (CII). These displays generated a substantial level of interest among visiting public for these timeless beauties. AHT has been showcasing widespread vintage and classic beauties with the help of associations like NDTA, Khan Market Traders Association annually for a couple of years and now with Select CITYWALK, Saket in New delhi

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Travelling with James Tod PHOTOGRAPHS AnD TExT BY:TEESTA VERMA

Young British Lieutenant James Tod was entrusted with surveying and charting the Mewar region. His work was a labour of love and Rajputana yielded him the most intimate of her secrets. He not only studied the land but also its people, their history, customs and traditions. His devoted study is documented in two series of the book Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan.

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y first reaction when I received a call from a friend to visit his family’s newly opened hotel in Bundi was not of great enthusiasm. What could possibly be new in Rajasthan? “Read Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan by James Tod”, I was told, “especially chapters on Hadoti and Mewar. His description of Bundi, temples of Bairoli and Menal, forts of Ranthambhor, Bhainsorgarh, Begun and Chittorgarh evokes interest with a fresh appeal.” Curiosity made me open this book and it sure did open my mind. Written almost 200 years ago, it is perhaps the best guide to Rajasthan. It creates new perspective towards experiencing the romance and chivalry of the royal era. The trail that James Tod followed was a cross country expedition on elephant and horse back. However, we retraced his journey along tarred roads, less travelled but in surprisingly good condition. Many of the palaces and forts he wrote about have opened their doors to guests. Based in Udaipur, the capital of Mewar, Tod travelled widely through the region, to the west, across the Aravallis into the desert states of Marwar, Jaisalmer and Bikaner, Ajmer and Jaipur in the north, Hada kingdoms of Bundi and Kota up to River Chambal, which forms a natural boundary to the east with Madhya Pradesh. The region of Hadoti lies to the south of Jaipur. Short of Tonk, the road bifurcates to the east towards Ranthambhor. Once a part of Mewar, then

Top inset: James Tod in East India Company uniform Left:Terrace Garden outside Chitrashala Facing Page: Painting on the Ceiling and Pillars

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Bundi, it has one of the most dramatic settings being one of the finest examples of the ancient Hindu concept of a van durg. Carrying on south towards Bundi on a well maintained road, the landscape begins to change as you approach Bundi. The terrain becomes mountainous lined with forests and you enter a narrow valley in the Aravallis. The 14th century fort of Taragarh and the palace built into and out of the hillside just below the fort, in gigantic terraces, dominates the quaint city as well as the Nawal Sagar Lake below. Tod writes, “The coup d’oeil of the castelled palace of Boondi, from whichever side you approach it, is perhaps the most striking in India; but it would require a drawing on a very large scale to comprehend its picteresque beauties or its grandeur... Throughout Rajwarra, which boasts of many fine palaces, Boondi ka Mahal is allowed to possess first rank... it is an aggregate of palaces... each having the name of its founder; and yet the whole is so well harmonised and character of architecture is so uniform... whoever has seen the palace of Boondi can easily picture himself at the hanging gardens of Semiranus.” Built in the traditional Rajput style of architecture, the palace has characteristic lotus flower spandrels, recurrent elephant motifs, richly ornamented brackets and a profusion of drooping, actuated roofs, kiosks and pavilions.The walk up is by steep ramp through Hazari and Hathi Pols.The Hathi Pol is topped with two enormous elephants with raised trunks. The palaces inside are intermingled with terraces, courtyards and gardens.The jharokas (windows) in Chhatra Mahal offer a great view of Bundi and the lake. Chhatra Mahal and Chitrashala have the finest specimens

of frescoes and murals in true Bundi style of painting that have withstood the test of time. The exotic shades of blue, green and red bring to life the legend of gods and goddesses, of Radha and Krishna, court and battle scenes, elephant fights and processions, courtesans and lovers.These have to be seen to be experienced to soak in their magical wonder! Not many know that Bundi inspired Rudyard Kipling, author of The Jungle Book, who stayed here for a year in1901 at Sukh Niwas Palace situated on the Sukh Sagar Lake and wrote Kim. Further along this very lake in a grove of trees called Kesar Bagh, there are 66 cenotaphs of Bundi royals elegantly carved with marble ceilings, decorative friezes and elephants. They span a period of two and a half centuries. At another location Chaurasi Khambon ki Chhatri, the 84 pillared cenotaph, is worth a mention. Another architectural wonder is the 165 feet deep stepwell, Raniji ki Baori or queen’s stepwell built in 1699 AD. It has an ornate arched gateway with a frieze of carved elephants, flanked by carved pillars. Bundi still has a delightful medieval flavour, cobbled lanes winding themselves through colourful bazaars, past blue whitewashed houses, temples and old havelis. During the rule of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir, Bundi was forcibly separated into two parts, Kota and Bundi. Moving east from Bundi one comes to the city of Kota on the banks of the river Chambal. Heading south west towards Bhainsorgarh, we drive past a statue of James Tod’s horse erected at the very spot it died. 55km from Kota is a hidden treasure, the 9th century temples dedicated to Lord Shiva at Baroli.Tod was so impressed by these temples that he devoted 11pages to describe them in detail in the Annals & Antiquities of Rajasthan. He writes,

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Top: Kirtistambh, the tower of fame, VijaystambhaTower of Victory, Chittorgarh Below: A mural depicting a queen from the walls of Chitrashala and intricate elephants near ceiling

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“To describe its stupendous and diversified architecture is impossible. It is the office of the pencil alone but the labour would be endless.” Tod was so overwhelmed by the intricacy and high state of preservation of its architectural ornament that declaring himself ‘perhaps now for the first time, fully impressed with the beauty of Hindu sculpture’. Time it seems has stood still in Bhainsorgarh. Little has changed since James Tod came here in 1820s and declared that if he could choose one fiefdom in the state, he’d pick Bhainsrorgarh. He writes, “The castle of Bhynsor is most romantically situated upon the extreme point of the ridge.” Perched on the edge of a cliff rising above translucent green waters of the Chambal on its east and the river Bamni to its west, stands the fort, its battlements, turrets and cupolas dramatically silhouetted against the sky. Bhainsrorgarh was never a pleasure palace and it was built as a rugged fighting fort. It boasts of no sheesh mahals, marble halls or delicate jaali screens but solid granite pillars framing deep verandahs, airy, light-filled rooms and a profusion of jharokhas that give magical vistas of the surrounding countryside. With a broad, deep river in front, a vertical cliff below and rocky hills of Mewar behind, you can immediately see why this fort has remained impregnable throughout its history. A two hour drive takes us to the 12th century temple dedicated to Shiva on the gorge of the river Menal. Carvings of gods and goddesses, dancers, attendants, animals and beautifully carved doorways and torana archways adorn the complex. Tod devoted many pages to Menal in his book. A hour and half drive on one of the finest highways of the country, linking Kota to Udaipur, brings you to the aweinspiring, battle scarred, 8th century, medieval Hindu fort

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in existence - Chittorgarh. Its architectural masterpieces the Vijaystambha-Tower of Victory, Kirtistambh, the tower of fame epitomises their history, the valour, the romance and ‘death before dishonour’ code glorified in Rajput myths and legends. Between AD 734 and AD1567, Chittorgarh fell victim to three bloody sieges, each one ending in glorious defeat and jauhar or the mass self sacrifice of women in a sacred fire. James Tod writes, “My heart beat high as I approached the ancient capital of the Sisodias, teeming with reminiscences of glory, of which every stone in her giant-like battlements attested... and with the wrecks of ages around me, I abandoned myself to contemplation... I gazed until the sun’s last beam fell on the ‘ringlet of Chittor’, illuminating its grey and grief worn aspect, like a lambent gleam lighting up the face of sorrow. Who could look on this lonely, majestic column, which tells in a language easier to interpret than tablet within ‘deeds which should not pass away and names that must not wither’... and withhold a sigh for its departed glories!” R

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Making of a brand Indian Handloom

At a time when machines seem to take over every small realm of fashion and life in general, Handloom Week 2010 was like a breath of fresh air.The unique fashion show proved that traditional handloom just needs a platform and it can take care of the fashion quotient way too well. Text By: Nidhi Raj Singh

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t was a rare symphony of Indian traditional weaves and modern silhouettes. Handloom Week 2010 was no less than any high fashion ramp show that Indian fashion fraternity hosts these days. High on style, colour and commercial viability, traditional fabrics and weaves seem to give designer labels a run for money.

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indian Fashion The Ministry of Textiles, the Office of Development Commissioner Handlooms, Fashion Desgin Council of India (FDCI) and renowned designers came together to showcase the best of Indian tradition and its modern day adaptability. FDCI designers Payal Jain, Anju Modi and Rajesh Pratap Singh along with Guwahati based designer Meghna Rai Medhi showcased their handloom collection at shows organised in various cities like New Delhi and Lucknow. The cuts were modern while the fabrics were traditional, a rare amalgamation indeed. A sizzling showcase of unique fashion was presented at the Handloom Week 2010 that matched the sparkling show in 2009. From simmering saris to flowy ghagharas, from modern kurtis and leggings to finely tailored garments, the fashion show displayed a wide array of new and modern cuts and vibrant colours. Apart from unique opportunity to exhibit handloom collection, the event also became the right platform to attract the attention of designers, retailers and wholesalers who are looking to source such products for Indian as well as international markets. Eight such fashion shows were presented across the country by North East Institute of Fashion Technology (NEIFT) in collaboration with Government of Arunachal Pradesh in December 2010. R

Glittering Presence The show at New Delhi was organised at Dilli Haat and inaugurated by Dayanidhi Maran, Minister of Textiles. It was attended by eminent personalities like Panabaaka Lakshmi, Minister of State for Textiles, and Rita Menon, Secretary-Textiles. The guests from the Indian fashion fraternity who enjoyed the ramp show were Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI, designer Rohit Bal, Kapil Arora, Dolly J, Charu Parashar, Gaurav Gupta, Meera Gupta, NV Gupta and Anupama Dayal among others.

Anti-clockwise from Top: Dayanidhi Maran, Minister of Textiles; Vikram Rai Medhi and Actor Rahul Dev; Designer Rohit Bal; Desingers Meghna Rai Medhi, Anju Modi and Payal Jain; Sunil Sethi, President FDCI

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indian heritage

PHOTOGRAPHS BY: nISHAn CHAnDRAn, TEAM MUMBAI MUSAFIRS TExT BY: JAHnAVI SARMA

Confluence of faith Ajanta and Ellora caves Cut and chiseled out of rocks with hands using the simplest of tools, the caves of Ajanta and Ellora were accidently discovered by John Smith, a British Army officer on one of his hunting expeditions in 1819. It has been an ancient marvel that stands silently and strongly as decades turn into centuries.

HOW TO R EACH By Rail: Closest rail head to Ellora caves is Aurangabad and for Ajanta caves is Jalgaon. By Air: Nearest airport is Chikalthana, caves are at a distance of 127 and 27 kilometres. By Road: One can hire a car and drive between the two cave sites. Travelling time is around 2 hours. There is a special bus service from Aurangabad

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pellbinding tourists for ages, the caves of Ajanta and Ellora seem to be located in the middle of nowhere near Aurangabad in Maharashtra. Chiseled in rock between 2nd century BC and 8th century AD, the World Heritage Sites of Ajanta and Ellora caves is one of the most alluring destinations for tourists, both Indian and foreign nationals.The paintings in Ajanta caves and the sculptures of Ellora are testimony to the rich architectural heritage of India. The 34 caves of Ellora and 29 at Ajanta illustrate the degree of skill and artistry that Indian craftsmen achieved hundreds of years ago. THE ASCEnT OF AJAnTA CAVES It was only in the late 19th century that the Ajanta group of caves were discovered deep within the Sahyadri hills. Cut into a curved mountain side, above the Waghora River, these 29 caves depict the story of evolution of Buddhism. Spanning a period

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from 200 BC to 650 AD, these were built as secluded retreats for Buddhist monks. Carved out of large rocks, followers and students of Buddhism decorated these caves showing excellent architectural and paintings skills. Using simple tools like hammer and chisel, monks carved out these impressive figures that included images of nymphs and princesses, adorning the walls of these structures. These sculptures narrate stories from Jatakas or tales of incarnations of the Buddha. The carvings and murals here depict the society of that period. These artistic pieces showed all kinds of people from kings to slaves, women, men and children interwoven with flowers, plants, fruits, birds and beasts. There are also special figures such as yakshas, kinneras (half human and half bird), gandharvas (divine musicians) and apsaras (heavenly dancers). As one walks inside the caves, the pounding sound of waterfalls make the entire experience even more ethereal. The caves are divided into chaitya-grihas (stupa halls) and viharas (dwelling halls). Around five of these caves (cave number 9, 10, 19, 26 and 29) are chaitya-grihas. The rest of the caves are sangharamas or viharas (monasteries). Caves 1, 2, 16 and 17 are important from the art point of view.The murals on the walls are in good condition and the colours still look fresh. Remember to bring a torch when visiting the Ajanta caves as many of them are quite dark and lighting is poor.

VITAL InFO Timings: 9am till 5.30pm Ajanta caves are closed on Mondays and Ellora caves are closed on Tuesdays. Both caves are open but very crowded on national holidays.

Cost: Admission for foreigners is US$10 for Ajanta caves. Entry to the Ellora caves is free except for Kailasa Temple which charges US$ 5 per person. Entry for children below 15 years is free at both places. Best time to visit: From November to March Where to stay: One can stay at Hotel Kailas located opposite Ellora caves. Accommodation options are limited at Ajanta. The best option is Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation’s Holiday Resort in nearby Fardapur. Festivals: A four day Ellora Ajanta Festival is held at Soneri Mahal in the last week of November each year. The festival features some of the most distinguished singers and dancers of India. Soneri Mahal or Golden Palace is a 17th century architectural marvel in Aurangabad situated near Ellora.

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THE ALLURE OF ELLORA CAVES The cave temples and monasteries at Ellora, excavated out of the vertical face of an escarpment, are 26 km north of Aurangabad. These have been dated some 600 years after Ajanta. The 34 caves in Ellora are carved into the sides of a basaltic hill and are the finest specimen of cave-temple architecture.They depict elaborate facades and exquisitely adorned interiors. These structures, which represent Hindu, Buddhist and Jain thoughts, were carved between 350 AD and 700 AD. The 12 caves to the south are Buddhist, 17 in the centre are dedicated to Hinduism and five caves to the north are Jain. The sculptures in the Buddhist caves convey nobility, grace and serenity inherent in the Buddha. Cave number 6 and 10 house images from Buddhist and Hindu faith under the same roof.The latter cave is dedicated to Vishwakarma, the patron saint of Indian craftsmen. The high point of the Ellora caves is the magnificent Kailasa temple in

cave number 16. Immense in size, the temple covers twice the area of the Pantheon in Athens and is one and a half times as high. This temple stands as one of the greatest architectural wonders with an entire composition chiseled out of a monolith. This mountain, believed to be the holy abode of Lord Shiva, is probably the world’s largest monolith. The pavilion, gateway, assembly hall, sanctum and tower are all cut out of a single block. Unlike most of the other temple constructions that start from the base, the sculpture here starts from the very top and the sides. The Jain caves are located almost a mile away from Kailasa temple. Here, cave number 32 has a shrine with an exquisite lotus flower on the roof and, in another cave. one can see a yakshini on a lion under a mango tree. Caves 32 and 34 have majestic statues of Parasnath.The other Jain caves have illustrations of Tirthankaras and one of them even has a seated figure of Mahavira. R

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Whologram-1 by Pratibha Singh

Rendezvous with Indian Modern art

What makes Indian contemporary art click? This seems like a question with various answers and yet none. As the buzz around Indian artists and art increases, we bring you close to the 3rd edition of India Art Summit for you to see what is it that fascinates the world?

Clockwise from Top: Night of the Sadhus- homage to Manjit Bawa by Waswo X Waswo; Goddess in Making by Anupam Sud;Women Era by Farhad Husain; I like the story as well as when you told it by Babu Eshwar Prasad Facing Page: Dish - homage to Ravi Varma by Waswo X Waswo

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indian Art

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The 3rd edition of India’s modern and contemporar y art fair proved to be a magnet for not only Indian art connoisseurs but also global art lover s. The claim was that the India Art Summit 2011 witnessed doubled participation from the international art arena compared to the last edition... and the claim was right! Among 84 art galleries that participated in this annual summit, 34 were leading international galleries. The galleries from countries like Canada, France, Germany, Korea, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, UAE, the UK and the USA showcased their products. Looking at the increased participation and presence, the total area of the art fair was also increased to approximately 8,000 square metre, almost two-folds to previous edition. The total number of galleries also increased by 55 per cent from the previous edition. Clockwise from Top: How we slide over the rainbow by Chitra Ganesh; Unnecessary Interference by M Sovan Kumar; The Other Brahmacharis - homage to Amrita by Waswo X Waswo; Reflection by Dhaneshwar Shah; Gravitational Shield by Yogesh Mahida

This edition saw group shows in the General Exhibition section while individual artists displayed in a new section called Solo Projects. A Sculpture Park was also erected around the art fair venue and dedicated spaces for video and performance art were also marked. R

Bahá’í Temple

Marvel of Modern Architecture

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indian Architecture

One of the wonders of modern India, the Bahá’í place of worship or the Lotus Temple, as it is popularly called, is a marvel in marble that celebrates the concept of purity, simplicity and freshness

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ong before the spiritual aroma of this temple engulfs you, you will see a white lotus emerging from the lush hills of Kalkaji in New Delhi. This is the last of seven major Bahá’í temples build round the world. Now, as the temple celebrates its 25th year, it continues to play on the consciousness of the city’s inhabitants, fuelling their curiosity and remodelling the definition of worship. Designed by architect Fariburz Sabha, the serene temple nestles amid a picturesque backdrop adorned with emerald pools and manicured gardens, that soothe every thirsty soul. The temples of the Bahá’í Faith are known for their architectural splendour and the one constructed in Delhi is a continuation of this rich tradition. The architect, Fariborz Sahba had travelled extensively in India to study the architecture of this land and was impressed by the design of the beautiful temples. He was particularly mesmerised by the art and religious symbols of this country where the lotus invariably played an important role. This influenced the conception of the Bahá’í temple in the form of a lotus especially since it conveys the concept of purity, simplicity and freshness that is inherent in the Bahá’í Faith.

The lotus shape of this architectural marvel signifies secularity of all faith and creeds. As one walks on the cobbled pathway towards the opulent edifice, it is easy to be overwhelmed with each step taken towards the melting pot of all religions. Once inside, the intricate interlocking ribs of the petals create a heavenly mesh above your head. The aura of silence surrounding the Prayer Hall instills reverence. This magnificent temple gives the impression of a half-open lotus flower, afloat, surrounded by its leaves. Each component of the temple is repeated nine times. Beautifully landscaped walkways with curved balustrades, bridges and stairs surround the nine pools around the main temple structure. Apart from serving an obvious aesthetic function, the pools also help ventilate the building and cool it during the long summer months. The lotus has three sets of leaves or petals, all of which are made out of thin concrete shells. The outermost set of nine petals, called the ‘entrance leaves’, open outwards and form the nine entrances all around the outer annular hall. The next set of nine petals, called the

TExT BY: JAHnAVI SARMA

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VITAL InFO Built during 1980-1986 Structure: Half floating lotus set amid pools and garden. The petals are made of white marbles. Visiting Days: Tuesday to Sunday Summer Timings: 9am to 7pm Winter Timings: 9:30 am to 5:30 pm Time Required: 1 hours approximately. Fact: It is the only Bahá’í Temple of Worship in Asia. Uniqueness: This temple has no idols of any deity or god. There is a prayer hall where people of all faith and religions can come. Don’t Miss: Unique prayer sessions that recite teachings from all the religions. Approximately 2 hours. Prayer Timings: 1000 hrs - 1015 hrs , 1200 hrs - 1215 hrs, 1500 hrs - 1515 hrs, 1700 hrs - 1715 hrs. Must Visit: The Information Centre where one can view photographs, written texts and film related to the Bahá’í faith. Tip: For an exotic experience, visit in the evening when the temple glitters like a diamond. How To Reach The temple is situated to the east of the intersection of Mathura Road (the way to Agra) and the outer Ring Road. Tourists can take a bus or metro to Nehru Place and then take an auto-rickshaw or walk for 15 minutes. One can also hire a car and visit nearby places as well. Nearby Places One can visit Nehru Place for any kind of electronic items. Kalkaji Temple is in the vicinity and 10-minute walk. Greater Kailash-1 market, 15 minutes by car, can be visited for garments, cosmetics and curios.

‘outer leaves’, point inwards. The entrance and outer leaves together cover the outer hall.The third set of nine petals, called the ‘inner leaves’, appears to be partly closed. Only the tips open out, somewhat like a partly opened bud. This portion, which rises above the rest, forms the main structure housing the central hall. Near the top where the leaves separate out, nine radial beams provide the necessary lateral support. Since the lotus is open at the top, a glass and steel roof at the level of the radial beams provides protection from rain and facilitates the entry of natural light into the auditorium.

Below the entrance leaves and outer leaves, nine massive arches rise in a ring. A row of steps through each arch lead into the main hall. The inner leaves enclose the interior dome in a canopy made of crisscrossing ribs and shells of intricate pattern. When viewed from inside, each layer of ribs and shells disappears as it rises, behind the next, lower layer. Some of the ribs converge radially and meet at a central hub.The radial beams emanating from the inner leaves described earlier meet at the centre of the building and rest on this hub. A neoprene pad is provided between the radial beams and the top of the interior dome to allow lateral movement caused by the effects of temperature changes and wind.The outer surface of the shells, as also the inner surface of the arches, are cladded with white marble panels fixed to the concrete surface with specially designed stainless steel brackets and anchors. 10,000 square metre of marble was quarried from the Mount Pentilekon mines of Greece and thereafter sent to Italy, where each panel was cut to the required size and shape to suit the geometry and architectural pattern before transporting them to the site in Delhi. It was then put together like a giant zigsaw puzzle in Delhi. R

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indian Accommodation

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Frescoed Past

Often dubbed as India’s outdoor museum, Shekhawati is much more than just a traveller’s pit-stop. Staying in one of the colourful fresco havelis in this sleepy town takes one to a different realm of time. Get ready for an off-beat experience. TExT BY: SMRITI MUKERJI

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indian Accommodation

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rom NH 8, the oft-used highway that connects New Delhi to Jaipur, branches off a road less travelled. Snaking past the heart of Riwari, this road goes up to Shekhawati. Situated at an average distance of 250 km from New Delhi, it has long been considered just a touch and go spot on the Delhi-Jaipur-Bikaner-Delhi circuit. Renowned chiefly for its painted havelis, the region is worthy of a more extensive itinerary. The likes of illustrious hotelier Aman Nath have dubbed it India’s ‘outdoor museum’. A four or five days vacation to Shekhawati is what one needs to discover its highlights, interesting inhabitants and peculiar geography. Hoteliers Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg toured the area extensively in 1980s and published a book titled The Painted Walls of Shekhawati. Its prominence on the international tourist map can be gauged from the fact that many local adolescents of the area enjoy a good command over languages like Spanish, Italian, French and German.

Top: Location courtesy - Ramgarh Fresco and Photograph courtesy - Buddha Studios Below: Turret Breakfast at Castle Mandawa

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CASTLE MAnDAWA Mandawa, situated about 30 km south-east to Ramgarh, was once a major trading outpost where traders from China and the Middle East would pass through. The town is dominated by a fort built in the late 1700s by Thakur Nawal Singh. It is currently run as Castle Mandawa, a heritage hotel. This 70-room property offers a high-end stay. Bollywood hit Jab We Met was shot extensively in and around the fort. In fact, director Imtiaz Ali considers this town a lucky charm and has returned to shoot parts for his subsequent films! Castle Mandawa is a beautiful amalgamation of the old and the new. Medieval turreted towers and palanquin-roofed

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balconies are beautifully blended with modern luxuries. You can stroll through the colonial verandah or relax in the Diwankhana, the formal drawing room decorated with family portraits and an array of antique armour. This is the place where old havelis vie for space with semimodern hotels, shops and cafes. Foreign tourists can hire one of the multi-lingual tour-guides. A fabulously painted archway detailed with images of Lord Krishna and his cowherds leads to the main bazaar. A famous Shiv temple with a crystal lingam, Harlanka well, Thakurji temple and Goenka Chattri are worth visiting. The main bazaar offers good deals on hand-crafted footwear (jutis) and bad deals on sourced antiques! Try some peda (congealed milk sweets) and ghevar. PIRAMAL HAVELI It is apt that the first hotel (or ‘non hotel’ as the group prefers) of Shekhawati should belong to Aman and Francis’s Neemrana Hotels. The Piramal Haveli, situated amid the mustard fields of Bagar, has been partially leased to the hoteliers. They have done a splendid job of restoring the building but never interfering with its original appeal. This

indian Accommodation haveli (sprawling ancestral home) is built around two successive courtyards and flanked by gardens on all sides. This design element is typical of buildings of the region built during the turn of the 19th century. Though built in the Indian architectural style, these structures are adorned with frescos clearly showing Renaissance influence. Even the tiles, some woodwork and fixtures are obvious European imports and currently enjoy antique status. The cosy rooms are decorated with antiques and brighthued linens. A palate of Prussian blue and minty green give courtyards and the facade a cheerful continence.After sundown, a burst of drums and folk melodies reverberate through the building. One can enjoy traditional Marwari thali dinners set out in the courtyard under a canopy of stars and moon. Quirky artistic frescos, such as war-time bomber aircrafts pictured over tranquil water- bodies are typical of Indian miniature art while the Hindu gods surrounded by cherubs add humour.

Top: Location courtesy - Ramgarh Fresco and Photograph courtesy - Buddha Studios

RAMGARH FRESCO HOTEL Ramgarh is a city of relics still coming into its own, tourist-wise. The latter also has a flourishing antique make-believe industry

– the ideal place to buy truck-loads of well-crafted teak and shisham furniture. Lane after abandoned lanes of ancestral havelis awaits

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Below: Castle Mandawa

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indian Accommodation

Right and Below: Piramal Haveli

tourists – mostly dilapidated but intricately frescoed. Caretakers inhabit most of these buildings. The Ram Gopal Poddar Chattri – a collection of decorated pavilions built by the founding family of Ramgarh – is a highpoint.The Ganga Temple, also built by the Poddars, echoes the architectural beauty of havelis. The Khemka Haveli, currently known as Ramgarh Fresco Hotel, is situated at the centre of the town. This 14-room proper ty, built over four floors, is a fine specimen of a local haveli. Its walls are decorated with painted scenes, murals and carvings – mostly retouched by artisans from Lakshmangarh.

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The hotel organises authentic Marwari meals at shortnotice. An assortment of vegetarian delicacies, soft breads and chutneys is served on old fashioned heavy brass plates (thalis). A lunch on the terrace of the hotel offers a view of the nearby havelis.Time stands still and lines between the past and present blur. One can go for site-seeing and shopping after a hearty meal. Nevertheless sifting through rare tiles and furniture is a fulfilling way to spend a lazy afternoon. Shekhawati has so much to offer by way of artistic beauty and history, that no one expedition can do it justice. It is anything but a stopover. R

A Slice of History

Chariot Beach Resort Beaches, temples and good times... this is what a guest at Chariot Beach Resort can experience in the historical town of Mahabalipuram.

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amed after the Pandavas ratha, the Chariot Beach Resort presents the enduring appeal and attraction of Mahabalipuram with a grand flourish. Showing the same pursuit for perfection, beauty and charm as seen in the renowned temples of Mahabalipuram, Chariot Beach Resort fulfills the most exquisite dreams and desires. Chariot Beach Resort offers an unimaginable experience. This is the place where time stands still as one takes in the stunning view of the Bay of Bengal and the glorious sunset. Set across 40 acres of landscaped gardens are 70 rooms, cottages and suites with modern amenities and classic style. From unhurried strolls on pristine beaches to a refreshing shower in one of their open-to-sky showers, the guest can choose a royal way to get pampered. An exclusive Ayurvedic and Wellness spa (opening shortly) on the beach front is the perfect way to rejuvenate the spirits. An Olympic sized pool is the ideal place to splash around. The resort also offers several activities like beach volleyball, cricket, gymnasium and health club (opening shortly), snooker, table tennis and a children’s play area. The smallest of the guest’s needs are taken care with its trademark hospitality. Since good food goes hand in hand with good times, expect only the best from Chariot Beach Resort. Kapi, the all day dining restaurant, offers a range of cuisines from coastal South India, North West Frontier to the Mediterranean regions. Further indulgence is the live grill every evening that entices food lovers. Paanam, the pool deck bar, serves the

most exciting mocktails, cocktails, spirits and specially selected international wines. Purple Patch offers seafood delicacies (opening shortly) and Bakehouse kicks up a heavenly aroma of freshly baked goodies. For those mixing business with pleasure, there are stateof-the-art conference facilities that can serve the needs of any corporate house. World class facilities can be expected from the resort’s 400-seater conference/banquet hall and two well appointed meeting rooms that serve the needs of any discerning business group. Outdoor parties are also arranged in any of the numerous lawns dotting the property. Against a backdrop of sun and surf, Chariot Beach Resort is the place to be – from a private family getaway to a company retreat. History and culture have never been offered on a platter like the way this new resort hotel does. R

tiger trail

Infinity Bandhavgarh Wilderness Infinity Bandhavgarh Wilderness perfectly fits the bill of a resort that offers luxurious and comfortable stay while being close to nature.They abide by a wonderful motto – ‘leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photographs’. A jungle resort that offers comfort and luxury while you explore the wilderness of Bandhavgarh National Park is a perfect holiday getaway. Infinity Bandhavgarh Wilderness is one such hideaway. Reminiscent of erstwhile maharaja lodges that were used for hunting and shooting games, the resort is located near the national park. Set amid thick bamboo groves, it gives its guests a feel of being in and around wildlife. The glass window allows one to enjoy the beauty of the wild while sipping tea in the bedroom. There are eight Lakeside Pavilions, six Deluxe Rooms and six spacious Villas to choose from. Well appointed rooms are equipped with modern amenities while using local material like inlaid marbles, wood and tiles. The cottages are painted with natural colours that blend well with the surroundings like mud brown, terracotta red and fawn jade green. Every room has twin/double beds, internet service, reading lights, writing table and chairs and a large luggage rack. The cottages are spacious, cozy and comfortable. They have modern facilities including

attached bathroom and shower with running hot and cold water. The Lakeside Pavilions overlook the grassland and one can see wild animals and birds flocking to the water holes. The resort has been designed and developed in a way that it has minimum impact on land and environment. Set on environmentally-friendly principles, every aspect of the resort, be it operation or staff, is sensitive towards nature conservation. The resort offers a drive in the park in the morning and evening, thus taking care of the wildlife safari in the national park with an option of elephant safari and tiger shows. The well-trained naturalists inform guests and share interesting experiences about wildlife. After a drive through the jungle, one can relax in the sprawling swimming pool or read at wildlife library at the resort. If you are a spa lover, then you can head to resort’s spa for a relaxing massage. The resort also organises walks through a tribal village, tribal and folk dances, wildlife film shows and nature treks. Guests can have a treat at the multi-cuisine restaurant and al-fresco dining under the star-studded sky. R

Luxury Redefined Parkland Retreat Hotel The Parkland Retreat Hotel is the new launch from the portfolio of Parkland Group of Hotels. The hotel boasts of luxurious rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant, conference and banquet halls and spacious lawns. Located in the neighborhood of Chattarpur Temple in New Delhi, the Parkland Retreat is set amid the sylvan surroundings of the forested area of the Aravalis.The luxury business resort’s tranquil ambience belies its proximity to the busy south Delhi residential areas and Gurgaon commercial centres. Stylish elegance reflected in its décor and state of the art facilities combine with soothing and refined ambience. The hotel offers 49 aesthetically designed and tastefully furnished rooms and suites, multi-cuisine dining restrobar and extensive meeting, conferencing and social events facilities. The soon to be open swimming pool will add to the bouquet of luxurious facilities for the discerning International traveller. The guest rooms at The Parkland Retreat, provide an ideal setting for complete relaxation. There are a total of 49 rooms with each providing a view of the lush green outdoors. The 47 Executive Rooms and two Superior Suites Banquets have been aesthetically designed and crafted to depict hotel’s style ethos and serene ambience.They are an amalgamation of contemporary comfort and modern

amenities. Facilities include central air conditioning, 24 hour in room dining, tea/coffee maker, wireless Internet connectivity, 40” LCD television, electronic safe, premium bathroom amenities, daily newspaper and a soft mini bar. The plush all day dining restaurant, Crociera, offers an amazing journey of culinary experience. The restaurant not only dazzles with its culinary excellence, but also with its ambience and décor. The elaborate buffet caters not only to the need of the busy corporate clients but also to the locale. The a la carte menu offers Indian, Chinese and Italian selection through the day. The bar designed within the restaurant is stocked with fine spirits including all time favourites, imported as well as domestic liquor. It also has five spacious and aesthetically done up halls and two grandiose lawns, which can be booked for professional meetings and conferences as well as weddings and get togethers. R

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indian wildlife

Of birds and binoculars From the high Himalayas in the north to low lying plains, India is home to over 1200 chirping birds with 141 endemic species with the rest being migratory.We take you on a rare flight to experience their wonderful world.

Photographs By: Suprakash Ghosh

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part from spotting birds in your surrounding, the national parks and sanctuaries across India offer ample opportunity to spot birds. Keep your binoculars ready at Kanha Tiger Reserve, Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary and National Park in Gurgaon, Haryana, Bandhavgarh National Park in Umaria district of Madhya Pradesh, Chambal National Sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh, Chilika Lagoon in Orissa, Jim Corbett National Park in Uttaranchal, Rann of Kutch in Gujarat, Valley of Flowers National Park in Uttaranchal and Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary among others.

BULBUL Appearance: Olive-brown, yellow or brown to black coloured bodies, very small neck, short wings, long tail, thin legs, with very soft claws on their feet Striking Feature: Contrasting colours above belly, throat, or parts of plumage at beginning of tail Where to spot them: Tropical regions, rarely found on high altitudes Characters: Passerine songbirds; males and female similarly coloured; melodious chirping

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HOOPOE Appearance: Long, thin tapering bill, broad and rounded wings Striking Feature: ‘Crown’ of feathers Where to spot them: Bare or lightly vegetated ground, forage and vertical surfaces with cavities (such as trees, cliffs, haystacks and abandoned burrows) Characters: Name is derived from Latin upupa, which imitates its cry; sunbathe by spreading out their wings and tail low against the ground and tilting their head up; Hoopoes make seasonal movements in response to rain in the Western Ghats; seen at high altitudes during migration across the Himalayas

PAInTED STORK Appearance: Broad-winged, white coloured body, wings and chest feathers have black and white markings, lower back and legs are light pink, head is partly covered with feathers and is orange in colour Striking Feature: Bill is long, yellow in colour and curves towards the end Where to spot them: Indian lowland wetlands with trees, freshwater marshes, ponds and flooded fields Characters: Fly with their neck outstretched; female is little smaller than the male; keeps swinging its head back and forth inside the water till it catches a prey; stay in large colonies near water; young ones are born brown in colour and get plumage after they become three years old; till 18 months of age, young ones can make loud calls to attract their parents, they lose their speech after this

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indian wildlife

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nIGHT HEROn Appearance: White or gray coloured body, short necks and legs, young ones have a brown coat dotted with white and gray Striking Feature: Contrasting gray colour of wings Where to spot them: Tropical regions of the Indian subcontinent, trees or in bushes during the day, water bodies when feeding Characters: Prefer to catch their prey during night; nests in colonies; number of other subspecies of the bird have gone extinct because of its capability to colonise small, predator-free oceanic islands and a tendency to evolve towards flightlessness

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SERPEnT EAGLE Appearance: Brown plumage, dark brown breast and head, wings and scapulars are covered with white spots, inner parts are pale reddishbrown, tail as well as underside of flight feathers are black and have a broad white band, eyes, legs and feet are yellow, wings are short and broad, white coloured head Striking Feature: Bill is strong, black in colour and slightly curved and there is a crest on the nape Where to spot them: Indian forests, mangroves and scrubs Characters: A specialist reptile eater; feathers start appearing 21 days after hatching; first flight is taken only after crossing two months of age; solitary creature; occupy same territorial boundaries for years; call is distinctive and comes across as ‘kluee-wip-wip’




SIRKEER MALKOHA Appearance: Earthy brown and rufous in colour, long heavy tail, white tipped graduated cross-rayed tail feathers, bright cherryred and yellow hooked bill Striking Feature: Large prominent eyes with seemingly visible brows Where to spot them: Sub-Himalayan Indian subcontinent, open scrub and thorn jungle, deciduous secondary jungle Characters: Also called Sirkeer Cuckoo; similar appearance of genders; juveniles are duller; runs swiftly through undergrowth looking like mongoose and ascends trees rapidly

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