ORNITHOLIDAYS’ TOUR TO SOUTH AFRICA Christmas & the New Year 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008

Leaders: Leon Marais, Martin Benadie and Simon Boyes

ORNITHOLIDAYS’ TOUR TO SOUTH AFRICA Christmas & the New Year 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 A Personal Diary

Thursday, 20 December We gather at Heathrow for the overnight South African Airways flight to Johannesburg. The frosty conditions demand a de-icing spray, which delays departure by an hour and a half. The South African Airways Airbus takes 11 hours to reach Johannesburg.... Friday, 21 December ...where we land at 0815. Entry formalities are quick and easy, and we are soon reunited with our luggage. Leon and Martin are here to meet us: both will be driving and helping us find birds. The two VW Minibuses head out of the city, and up into the Suikerbosrand Reserve. As this is the one birding area on our way to Wakkerstroom, we spend a few hours here, enjoying the bishops and widowbirds in their finest breeding plumage all around us. The Long-tailed Widowbirds are especially spectacular as they flap around, impressing the females with their huge, shimmering tails. Southern Red and Yellow-crowned Bishops are illuminated by the sunshine that we have with us all day. Greater Striped and White-throated Swallows quarter the grassy hillsides; while Mountain Wheatears perch on rocky outcrops. There is no room to mention all our sightings; but a Brown Snake Eagle and flocks of Cape Canaries are notable. The landscape is beautifully green after recent rains. Mammals include rare Blesbok and Black Wildebeest among the more common Burchell's Zebra. There are also a few Greater Kudu, Eland and Red Hartebeest. We rest in the shade of the picnic area, and enjoy the picnic that Leon and Martin have brought, with tea and coffee too. The karoo acacias are flowering with bright yellow pom-poms. Cape Weavers chase a Diderick Cuckoo above our heads, and the Red-eyed Bulbuls (here at the edge of their range) will be the only ones of the tour. In the afternoon we head south-east to Wakkerstroom, sharing a busy road with many impatient Christmasholiday drivers. A Black-winged Pratincole flies over Martin's minibus. The last stretch of road is quiet and peaceful, with Whiskered Terns and Spur-winged Geese by farm ponds, and a fine Southern Bald Ibis feeding nearby. The few raptors include Black-shouldered Kites and an African Marsh Harrier. A pair of Grey Crowned Cranes appear on the edge of town itself, just before we stop at our hotel, at 1730. Somehow we manage to call the checklist and enjoy a fine meal before heading for our overdue beds! Saturday, 22 December Dawn comes early in midsummer in these parts: sunrise is at 0500! We gather an hour later for a first look at the famous Wakkerstroom wetland reserve. A shallow lake and huge reedbeds have been well conserved over the years, and always offer a treat for birders. We look down on three male Little Bitterns, two in the height of breeding condition, with rosy bills. Purple Heron and African Purple Swamphen are at home here: same name, but completely different in colour! African Snipe prod the muddy margins with long bills, in the company of Yellow-billed Duck, Red-billed and Hottentot Teal. A Grey Crowned Crane, flying low over the reeds, startles an African Marsh Harrier, which flies off at speed. Three similar species of warbler (Lesser Swamp, African Reed, and Little Rush) are all on view below us, most easily distinguished by their very different songs. More spectacular are the Southern Red and Yellow-crowned Bishops with neon-bright plumage in the early sun. The drive back past the old railway station adds South African Cliff Swallow, Cape Glossy Starling and Bokmakierie (a bush-shrike) to our list. After a satisfying breakfast, we explore the high altitude grasslands on farm roads. Buff-streaked Chat, an attractive wheatear, starts us off. Sentinel Rock Thrushes perch on poles, singing, while Long-tailed Widowbirds continue their elegant displays on all sides. Three female Amur Falcons, here in winter quarters, feed on aerial insects. They have recently arrived from Eastern Siberia, an amazing migration. Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 1

Other raptors include a female Montagu's Harrier, two Jackal Buzzards, and two soaring Secretarybirds. Southern Bald Ibis feed by the road with two Cape Crows. These ibis, once a source of concern, are now happily recovering in numbers. Not everyone sees everything: one vehicle has a Groundscraper Thrush, while the other finds Wing-snapping Cisticola and Drakensberg Prinia. Flora includes pale pink Pelargonium, deep pink Watsonia, orange wild Gladeolus, and yellow Gaillardia. With the backdrop of Wakkerstroom town below us, our final birds are special: a pair of confiding Ground Woodpeckers, perched on rocks alongside us. They have forsaken trees for life in the open grasslands, nesting among rocks. Lunch is back at base - with the unusual sightings of ostrich carpaccio and garlic snails on the menu. After a siesta, we set out again at 1530. The hotel rooftop has Pied and Redwing Starlings. We are on foot, for a walk round the leafy streets of town, where three fine species turn up all at once. A Red-throated Wryneck is soon followed by Crested Barbet, then again Black-collared Barbet. Garden feeders attract Cape and Southern Masked Weavers, and Speckled Mousebirds visit fruiting bushes. Down by the wetland, a White-throated Swallow perches on a fence, while South African Cliff-Swallows visit nests under a bridge. White-rumped Swifts are tenants in some of the unoccupied swallow nests. Martin finds a Dark-capped Yellow Warbler for us; while further away African Spoonbill and Grey Crowned Cranes feed side by side. When we have enjoyed the spectacle of egrets flying to roost, we head back for another fine dinner, with plenty of local wine and beer. Sunday, 23 December We hit the road at 0530 on another beautiful sunny morning. We have with us tea, coffee and a huge picnic breakfast. Passing the wetland, we notice that White-faced Duck are new arrivals since yesterday. We set out on a loop along the Amersfoort road to the north of town. The landscape is rolling upland grasslands, with low densities of cattle and sheep. A few farmers have introduced Blesbok and Springbok onto their farms, which we decide are not wild enough to add to the list. All morning we have Long-tailed Widowbirds hovering over the grasslands, as exotic as any bird of paradise. Cape Longclaws and Yellowcrowned Bishops are also regular bursts of colour along the way. The first special find is a shy gamebird of the long grass, Redwing Francolin. Leon finds a Common Quail, visibly singing by the road, even though it is a non-breeding visitor here. A purple patch of raptors consists of a male Montagu's Harrier, a stomping Secretarybird right by the road, and several Amur Falcons perched in the manner of tired, newly arrived migrants. A walk through a grassy field enables us to flush another Common Quail, and to enjoy more botanizing. Red-capped and Spike-heeled Larks are here, but the hopedfor rare Rudd's Lark is off elsewhere on a Christmas break. Breakfast is much enjoyed alongside the vehicles. Once refreshed, we soon come across two groups of Blue Cranes, feeding together in drier habitat than their Crowned cousins. Twice these elegant birds fly over the road just ahead of us. The return journey could be called Meerkat Alley, since we pass four family groups, with at least 24 animals in all. Frequently we find them on two legs, watching us quizzically, posing for photographs. One family dashes across the road, with the rear sentry stopping for an upright scan. Leon, who has spotted most of the Meerkats, has a final card to play: a family of Blue Korhaans, a local endemic. These beautiful little bustards have two half-grown chicks, which move through the long grass between their parents. We arrive back at our base at midday, with plenty of time to enjoy lunch and siesta. At 1600 we return to the field, along the Newcastle road. At last Amur Falcons appear in numbers, hawking insects all around and above us. The males are especially smart with pied underwing. Among them is one Lesser Kestrel. A Malachite Sunbird shows off emerald plumage on a bush, and hirundines of many species seem especially abundant. On the large expanse of Zaaihoek Dam, a few South African Shelduck can be seen among the hundreds of Egyptian Geese. Our furthest point is the bridge over the Slang (Snake) River, where Black Duck swim peacefully and a Cinnamon-breasted Bunting comes to drink. A Slender Mongoose causes distress to the local Cape Wagtails as it hunts along the water's edge. Rock Hyraxes are a common sight, sunning themselves on the rock ledges. The telescope offers views of Diderick Cuckoo, Cape Grassbird, and a family of Buff-streaked Chats. We head back to base after a wonderful day in the field.

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Monday, 24 December The pre-breakfast trip is up into the hills above Wakkerstroom, where we soon find Yellow-breasted Pipit in song-flight above a cow pasture. This localized endemic only breeds above 2,000 metres. The same field has Eastern Long-billed Lark males in fierce territorial dispute, with feathers flying. A flock of 14 Southern Bald Ibis graze peacefully alongside us, and both Black-winged and Crowned Lapwings like the short grass too. The loud tick-tick-tick made by the wings of the Wing-snapping Cisticola is another feature of the cool, breezy walk. After breakfast we pack up and head out towards the south-east, and lower altitudes. A single Amur Falcon and two wintering European Rollers are the first birds of note. Gradually the rolling grasslands are replaced by eucalypt and maize plantations as we approach Piet Retief. Long-tailed Widows disappear, and in their place we start to see Yellow-billed Kites and Steppe Buzzards. A stop in Pongola, near the Swaziland border, enables us to buy KwaZulu Natal maps at a fuel station. Lunch is at an exclusive resort called Ghost Mountain, in Mkuze, where large numbers of Village Weavers and a few Lesser Masked Weavers have an impressive colony outside reception. After a delicious meal, a stroll in the garden turns up a Purple-banded Sunbird and a Lesser Honeyguide. A distant African Jacana can be scoped across the lake at the bottom of the garden. Continuing our journey, we cross the Ubombo Hills where White-necked Ravens fly overhead. The town of Jozini is bustling with last-minute Christmas shoppers, especially at the fruit market and beer stores. We head north-east, towards the Mozambique border, passing Little Bee-eater and Lilac-breasted Roller on the way. On arrival at the Tembe Elephant Reserve, we park the minibuses and transfer into the park's open fourwheel-drive landcruisers. The sandy tracks would soon bog down any other vehicles. We have time to settle into our luxury tents and look around camp, where Crested Guineafowl are confiding. We set out on a game drive at 1700. The forest canopy, especially after good recent rain, is lush and green and too thick to be ideal for bird-spotting. But good birds appear, such as Black-headed Oriole, Common Scimitarbill, Crowned Hornbill and a fine African Cuckoo-Hawk. Mammals include many fine Nyala and Impala, a Red Duiker, Burchell's Zebras and a Slender Mongoose. As the sun sets and the air cools, Red-backed Shrikes, Rattling Cisticolas and a Crested Francolin appear. A tasty dinner, eaten outside with the full moon rising, includes the choice of kudu stroganoff. During our meal, a Thick-tailed Bushbaby comes for its dinner too: a slice of home-baked bread held up by Tom, the camp manager. Tuesday, 25 December Joan starts her day with a Red-capped Robin-Chat outside her tent. The early game drive begins with many rounds of Christmas greetings as the sun rises. Brown-hooded Kingfishers perch in the parking area, and two Tambourine Doves whistle past. Highlights of the safari include Pink-throated Twinspot, a sand-forest endemic, Dark-backed Weaver, Sombre and Yellow-bellied Greenbuls and Southern Black Tit. In the more open areas, European and Little Bee-eaters hawk insects and perch in bushes. Giraffes - a family group of five with one very young - pose for photographs. We stop to admire the Zimbabwe national flower, a flame lily, and the blue Commelina. Dung beetles are abundant here, and fascinating to watch as they struggle with huge lumps that they roll into a ball. Next they push and pull them towards their burrows to make a suitable receptacle for their eggs, all the while helping to fertilize the forest! After a welcome stop for coffee and rusks at the picnic site, raptors take to the air: Bateleurs and a juvenile Martial Eagle. As we approach camp, Black-bellied Starlings and Neddicky appear; some of us see a Blackbellied Bustard that has plenty of long grass to hide in. Brunch is a very welcome meal soon after 1000, with small presents to open from Ornitholidays and from Leon on behalf of our local agents. The camp also has beautifully wrapped boxes of luxury chocolates for us: an interesting choice as the temperature is climbing towards 32°C! Most of us head back into the field for an hour to sit in the hide that overlooks a beautiful waterhole. A local endemic, Rudd's Apalis, appears on the way. At the waterhole, the mega-fauna include Elephants dustbathing and drinking, Greater Kudu and Nyala, Common Waterbuck and Warthogs, Zebra and a lone Blue Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 3

Wildebeest. We also have time for the birds by the water, such as Golden-breasted Bunting and Dusky Indigobird drinking, and Woolly-necked Stork and waders feeding. These are resident Three-banded Plovers and migrant Wood and Green Sandpipers. The Green is a lifer for Leon: rare so far south. The acacias around the hide bring in Retz's Helmet-Shrikes, Long-billed Crombec, and Yellow-breasted Apalis. After an enjoyable hour, we return to camp for a siesta. There is plenty of time for Brenda, Derek, Joan and me to swim in the small but refreshing swimming pool. This is turning out to be an unusual Christmas day! Specialities of the afternoon game drive include Grey and Neergaard's Sunbirds, Eastern Nicator (a greenbul-relative with a shrike-like hooked bill), Broad-billed Roller, Pale Flycatcher and Croaking Cisticola at the spot where we stop for sundowners. The return to camp at dusk brings close encounters with young bull Elephants, which are blocking the way as they engage in tusk-to-tusk blows. Crested Guineafowl have well-grown chicks, as yet without their curly crowns. Christmas dinner is a fine buffet, with turkey (and all trimmings), gammon and impala on offer, followed by mince pies, Christmas cake and sherry trifle. Bottles of wine are offered by Ornitholidays. Tea and coffee is served to the accompaniment of energetic Zulu dancing by the local villagers. The bushbaby seems undeterred by the drums and shrill voices, as it leaps through the tree above the performance. The camp quietens down around 2300, and the cicadas take over again. Wednesday, 26 December Southern Black Tit, Terrestrial Brownbul and Bearded Scrub Robin are the first birds on the early drive. The CCTV of the waterhole that is displayed in the bar shows that a pride of Lions is resting there. We detour to watch them, and are just in time to see the five, including a maned male, move from the waterside back into the bush. Two Zebras swish tails in anxiety. Continuing towards the track that Martin calls Sunbird Alley, we pass both Lesser Spotted and Wahlberg's Eagles in flight. One vehicle picks up Southern Boubou, Brown-crowned Tchagra and Neergaard's Sunbird, while the other finds White-bellied Sunbird, Neddicky and Black-crowned Tchagra. We stop to photograph Leopard Tortoise and several industrious dung beetles. They have right of way over traffic here, and cause elaborate manoeuvres to steer out of the ruts in the sandy tracks. Tom, the camp manager, leads us to a spot in good sand-forest. He turns out to be a fine bird guide too, as he whistles up a pair of Woodward's Batis, and suggests that Martin might try here to attract the rare Plainbacked Sunbird with mini-disc. This is the only place in South Africa where this Mozambique species can be found. Soon we are watching a singing male, which stays long enough for all to see well, even in the scope. It is a new bird for all of us, even Leon and Martin! At the same spot, Joan finds a flock of Retz's Helmet-Shrikes passing through. The butterflies of Tembe are often more conspicuous than the birds - and here we come across Mamba Swordtail, and both Emperor and Green-banded Swallowtails, all gorgeous insects. We celebrate with a cup of coffee and return for brunch. At the hide, many magnificent bull Elephants are gathered to drink and dust-bathe. Tembe contains (according to one reputable study) the largest animals in Africa. One that poses for us has tusks two metres long, like a prehistoric mammoth. On a smaller scale, we also enjoy a Warthog family with small piglets, Ashy Flycatcher with spotted young, and many antelope, safe again now that the Lions have left. During siesta, Brenda and Derek show us their palatial new tent (named Matriarch no. 9) with birdbaths at front and back. Here patient watching has rewarded them with Pink-throated Twinspot, Red-backed Mannikin and Blue Waxbill. Now African Goshawk and Grey Waxbill call in too. The swimming pool is also a popular spot, as it is even hotter than yesterday. Afternoon tea (with moist Christmas cake) is followed by a short-lived safari. Under darkening skies, we have time for only a few interesting birds: African Firefinch and Black-chested Snake Eagle by one vehicle; and Grey Penduline Tit by the other. The heavens open in a spectacular thunderstorm, which lasts until after dinner. Thursday, 27 December Last night's storm has given way to early morning drizzle, which prevents the planned walk round camp. We pack up and leave Tembe after a much enjoyed Christmas stay. Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 4

Heading south towards St Lucia, the weather clears: a Burchell's Coucal sits on a dead tree drying off. We pass several European Rollers and a Striped Kingfisher on the wires, before arriving at Muzi Pan. Here a wonderful wetland scene opens out before us: one of those magic places where you don't know where to look first. Pink-backed and Great White Pelicans are preening on the shore, with a large mixed flock of Fulvous and White-faced Ducks. Nearby is a Black Heron, among egrets of three species. The short grass is littered with Ruff and Kittlitz's Plovers, two Greenshank and a few Black-winged Stilts. Two young Fish Eagles fly over, and rearrange the scene by sending everything in panic into the air. Higher still, a Blackchested Snake Eagle soars. The reedbeds across the road are of equal interest. Here Southern Brownthroated and Thick-billed Weavers can be seen among the Southern Red Bishops. Roy puts us onto a flock of Red-headed Queleas, an unusual species here. We stand on a bridge with Lesser Striped and Wire-tailed Swallows flying to nests beneath. Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters hawk insects over the wetlands, and a Rufouswinged Cisticola flies, calling, onto a reedy island. The sun has reasserted its authority, and we press on to a cool and shady lunch spot. On the way Whitebacked Ducks and a Lesser Spotted Eagle are worth noting. Lunch is at Ilala Weavers, a restaurant and craft complex where food, drink and retail therapy can be combined! In the gardens are Crested Barbet, Scarletchested Sunbird and a Hadeda Ibis with three chicks in a nest; but the Burnt-necked Eremomela fails to register on our list as only Leon sees it. In mid-afternoon, we arrive at Mtuba Manor, a new guesthouse in the suburbs of Mtubatuba. Here our hosts Merle and Es welcome us to their home and shady garden. The rooms are beautiful, and the swimming pool refreshing. A walk round the garden turns up Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Spectacled Weaver, African Hoopoe and Cape White-eye. Along the nearest avenues we find a pair of African Green Pigeons on a nest, and a Kurrichane Thrush feeding a premature fledgling on the ground. One fruiting Natal mahogany has White-eared Barbets and Paradise Flycatchers; while Golden-tailed Woodpeckers and Lesser Honeyguide are nearby. Overhead are two Palm-nut Vultures, an easy bird to miss in Natal. Well pleased with our relaxing afternoon, we enjoy our delicious roast dinner all the more. Friday, 28 December We set off early with a picnic breakfast, to explore the coastal strip north of St Lucia. Derek spots a Longcrested Eagle in the unlikely habitat of eucalypt plantation as we leave Mtubatuba. Once we are inside the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park, we see a coastal heath dominated by Helichrysum and a small tree called waterberry (Syzygium). Black-collared Barbets, European Rollers and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters are common, and a few Red-breasted Swallows fly round us. Eileen finds us a Brown-hooded Kingfisher; and an immature Lizard Buzzard takes a moment or two to identify. Mammals include Common Reedbuck, Bushbuck and Warthog with small piglets. We stop for our al fresco breakfast in a patch of woodland near the Mission Rocks viewpoint. Rudd's Apalis and Grey Sunbird appear in the trees, while above the viewpoint we watch a Southern Banded Snake Eagle soaring. One sad sight is a dead nightjar in the road: closer inspection shows it to be a female European. We revise our plans for the rest of the day, as Leon's minibus has a sticking accelerator problem. Luckily we can all fit into one, allowing us to keep birding while Leon seeks help in Mtubatuba. As we return slowly to St Lucia, Trumpeter Hornbill and African Harrier Hawk pass by in flight. Martin takes us first of all to the St Lucia water treatment ponds: such places are always a good bet for waders! Wood, Marsh and Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stint and Ruff find plenty to feed on; and a Black Crake scurries along the margin. As we pass through the leafy suburbs, two Livingstone's Turacos cross the road displaying brilliant magenta wings. Near the mouth of the estuary, terns are loafing at high tide on a small island. Most are Swift, (known in other lands as Great Crested), with a few Caspian and a single Sandwich. Martin draws our attention to a slightly smaller crested tern with deeper yellow, almost orange bill: a wandering Lesser Crested, an Asian species. An Osprey makes two unsuccessful dives in front of us. The reedbeds fringing the estuary have nest-building Yellow Weavers: bright sulphur birds with red eyes. After a bite to eat in a café in town, we return to our friendly guesthouse for a rest through the heat of the afternoon. Setting out again on foot, we come across Red-faced Mousebirds among the more abundant Speckled, both attracted to the fruits of the Natal mahogany (Trichilia). Violet-backed Starlings look Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 5

brilliant in the late afternoon sun, and there is another performance from the Palm-nut Vultures. Paradise Flycatchers, elusive yesterday, show better today, including a long-tailed male. The climax is a wonderful view of an Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike, which has been teasing us for five days in the 'heard only' category. Saturday, 29 December A walk in the coastal forest just outside St Lucia town whets the appetite for breakfast. Right by the minibus are Livingstone's Turacos, chasing each other though the canopy, and a Brown Scrub Robin, a localized endemic. As we walk along an easy forest trail, interesting birds appear thick and fast: Dark-backed Weaver, Eastern Olive and Collared Sunbirds, Terrestrial Brownbul and Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher. A pair of Square-tailed Drongos are beginning a nest; and two Red-capped Robin-Chats, one a fledgling, hop along the track. Brenda catches up on Eastern Nicator, which she missed at Tembe. Trumpeter Hornbills and White-eared Barbets are attracted to a fruiting fig. The final delight is the usually restless Rudd's Apalis in the scope for all to see. Out on the estuary, Penny finds us a lordly Goliath Heron. The tern flock is swelled by a new arrival of a hundred Common Terns, just in off the sea. Leon finds yesterday's Lesser Crested as well. Waders on the muddy island include Water Thick-knee, Grey Plover, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint. After a fine cooked breakfast back at our 'home' in Mtubatuba, we take our leave of the hospitable Merle and Es. Leon is now at the wheel of a Toyota Quantum, replacing our stricken VW. The journey to Bonamanzi is only an hour: this is a private reserve near Hluhluwe, (which is pronounced something like Shush-Louie). Here Impala, Nyala, Reedbuck and Warthog are conspicuous by the track. We arrive to find our rooms all ready for us, a nice surprise at midday. The large lily-pond outside our thatched chalets has a male Jacana with three tiny chicks, Malachite and Pied Kingfishers, Hamerkop and African Darter. Wiretailed Swallows have recently fledged young, and a Striated (Green-backed) Heron patrols the far shore. One advantage of Bonamanzi is the absence of dangerous animals (apart from the nocturnal Hippopotamus and aquatic crocodiles). Hence we can safely wander around at will. The afternoon walk starts after tea and snacks in the dining area. Highlights are the shy Green Malkoha, Klaas's Cuckoo, Purple-banded Sunbird, and Grey Tit-Flycatcher, all watched at leisure in the scopes. When we return to our chalets at 1745, Warthogs are grazing the lawn on their front knees, and allow approach up to a few feet. The beautiful male Nyala are almost as confiding - wonderful opportunities for even the simplest cameras. The evening programme involves a 'bush braai' (barbecue), very much a feature of South African life. We travel by open jeep through the bush to a lakeside, used for braais at weekends. As darkness falls, a Squaretailed Nightjar, with white trailing edge to wings, settles on the ground in front of us, and repeatedly sallies after insects before returning. The food and wine are much enjoyed, even if we can hardly see what we're eating! Sunday, 30 December Who needs an alarm clock where there are Hadedas? The early programme is a jeep safari onto the floodplain of the western part of St Lucia Lake, called False Bay. First birds are Southern Banded Snake Eagle (this time perched), Burchell's Coucal and Croaking Cisticola. Once on the floodplain, we soon find all three species of South African Longclaws: the only spot where this is possible. Especially beautiful is the Rosy-throated. Other birds of interest are Black and Yellow-billed Storks, Collared Pratincoles (with fully-grown young) and White-fronted Plovers, looking white on the dark sandy shore. Thousands of swallows quarter the short grass and reeds: almost all are wintering Barn, but there are a few Grey-rumped and Red-breasted among them. Coffee and muffins taste good as we watch the swallows and the poisonous foam grasshoppers on the flowering milkweed. Purple Herons look small and flimsy in flight when a Goliath lumbers by. On the return journey we are lucky enough to see a Gorgeous Bush-Shrike, a notoriously shy inhabitant of tangled thickets. Brunch is very welcome at 1015, after which we stroll for a while round the lovely gardens. There are Yellow Weavers to watch nest-building, close to a gathering of Water Thick-knees. A Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 6

Diderick Cuckoo shares a tree-top with our first Village Indigobird. Siesta is long enough for swimming and snoozing, as we start especially early tomorrow. Gathering again for tea, Christmas cake and mince pies, we drive a short distance to another sand-forest patch. On the way, a pair of Lemon-breasted Canaries pop up on an Ilala palm (Hyphaene), which is the usual habitat of this unusual species. Birds of the walk include a point-blank Bearded Scrub Robin, Grey and Purple-banded Sunbirds. After dinner, we find a good place to call the checklist: the lakeside pavilion, which has good light and comfortable chairs. The only problem is the loud chorus of painted reed-frogs that make us shout to be heard! Monday, 31 December Blue Wildebeest move out of our way as we leave at 0500 for a day-trip to Natal's showcase reserve, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi. Passing a few European Rollers and Yellow-throated Longclaws, we arrive at the park gate after 45 minutes. Once the paperwork is completed, we drive less than a minute before five White Rhinoceros delay us. One is a female with an amazingly long, straight horn like a lance. A few minutes later, after passing many Zebra, Giraffe, and our first Buffalo, we meet another five Rhinoceros, wallowing in mud. This reserve, which has always had a good population of White Rhinoceros, has been the source of many translocation programmes to ensure their survival throughout the savannas of East and Southern Africa. At present the reserve population is just over 2,000; with an additional 275 Black Rhinoceros. Being browsers rather than grazers, the Blacks stay in thicker cover and are less often seen. As we wend our way slowly towards the picnic site for breakfast, Black-bellied Bustard, Purple-crested Turaco and Southern Boubou are a few highlights. Grey Waxbills finally show themselves well to both vehicles, and a Jacobin Cuckoo of the dark morph is a good find. Above the picnic table a Willow Warbler sings as if it is in England in May. Red-faced Cisticola in the reedbeds below represents the resident warblers. As the temperature rises, bird activity dies down significantly. Red-faced and Speckled Mousebirds appear together; and raptors include Wahlberg's Eagle and our first vultures: White-backed. There are different Gorgeous Bush Shrikes for both vehicles: Martin's even has a pair duetting in full view. We arrive at Hilltop Camp and take the nature trail that starts next to the swimming pool. Sombre Greenbuls and Red-chested Cuckoos continue their constant singing despite the midday heat. A Red-capped RobinChat is sensibly hiding in the shade; but luckily a male Narina Trogon is more active, showing its exquisite plumage to us at length. While we quench thirsts on the terrace, White-necked Ravens appear, not far from a Trumpeter Hornbill. After lunch, we head back to Bonamanzi, stopping here and there for a Dusky Indigobird and more White Rhinoceros. As we drive into the camp clearing, a group of Crested Guineafowl have young of two different sizes. The middle of the day has seemed especially hot today - it was good to leave for Hluhluwe early. We now have time to rest before the New Year's Eve festivities. During the afternoon a Lesser Honeyguide repeats its monotonous 'frip..frip..frip' endlessly from an acacia above chalet no. 9. The lake pavilion is a perfect place for a quiet checklist before the disco and the Reed Frogs get going. Thieves are apprehended in chalet no. 7, but the offending Vervet Monkeys only make off with fruit. The police will not press charges. After dinner, the master of ceremonies (a Durban radio DJ on his holidays) gets everyone in party mood. Leon shows Joan a few African-style steps on the dance floor. Later, Roy wins a bottle of sparkling wine for being team leader in one of the organized games and attracting the most applause! Tuesday, 1 January Fresh from his triumph at the party, Roy is up early to see a Giant Kingfisher catching a fish in the lake. After breakfast, Lesser Honeyguide, Black-collared Barbet and the previously elusive Red-fronted Tinkerbird congregate in the huge acacia above no. 9. At 1000 we leave Bonamanzi, with its friendly staff and abundant wildlife. Staying here has been a real highlight of the tour. The morning journey is uneventful, and at midday we arrive in Pongola, where a Groundscraper Thrush on a lawn is a good bird for all to see. A very leisurely lunch is taken on the terrace of the Pongola Country Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 7

Lodge. While we wait for our salads and toasted sandwiches, White-browed Robin Chat, Paradise Flycatcher and Brown-hooded Kingfisher entertain us. The car park also has Epauletted Fruit Bats hanging up in a tree. It is no great distance to Itala Game Reserve. The journey takes us up into beautiful rolling grassland and savanna, extremely green in all directions. We pass a lone Amur Falcon, seven wintering White Storks among cattle, and a Jackal Buzzard outnumbered by their migratory Steppe cousins. Entering the reserve, we find Ostriches and Tsessebe, an antelope closely related to the East African Topi. Blue Cranes and game animals of many species vie for our attention. Giraffe are especially photogenic. As we arrive at reception of the beautifully situated Ntshondwe Camp, two African Hawk Eagles, startlingly black and white in the sun, set out to hunt as a pair. We find our chalets and relax. Many of us meet up again for a short evening ramble, with Cape Batis, Purple-crested Turaco and African Black Swift among our findings. After dinner, the short walk back to our chalets gives us a chance to marvel at the night sky, with no light pollution. Wednesday, 2 January Penny and Joan have a pair of Redwing Starlings nesting in their thatched porch: a pale blue eggshell suggests they have just hatched young. The early drive has several birds as yet unfamiliar on the tour. Yellow-throated Petronias are feeding in the camp car park, not far from an Amethyst Sunbird. Further on is a Lazy Cisticola, plain with long tail and inhabiting rocky slopes. Familiar Chats are in the same habitat. Three Cuckoo Hawks fly over like large Accipiters, and circle above us. Rock Kestrel is common here: but is it a separate species from our European form? Watching one feeding on the wing (like a Hobby, Lesser Kestrel or Amur Falcon) suggests a significant ecological difference from ours. At the coffee stop a Wahlberg's Eagle upsets a pair of nesting Wattled Lapwings. We have a wonderful panorama over the Pongola River, and take some group photos. A varied selection of mammals on the drive includes Grey Duiker, Greater Kudu, Mountain Reedbuck, Red Hartebeest, Tsessebe, Chacma Baboon, and one very close White Rhinoceros. After breakfast we stroll around the camp, watching the Thick-billed Weavers in the reedbed by the dining room. Lesser Masked Weavers are still busy building, tearing narrow strips off palm leaves. Dusky Flycatcher and Mocking Cliff Chat are close to reception too. The African Hawk Eagle appears above us again, this time making a half-hearted stoop on a Speckled Pigeon. In the 'most colourful' category are Black-collared Barbet and Violet-backed Starling. Eventually the rising heat wins, and we retreat to our cool chalets. The cafeteria serves us a light lunch, on a shady terrace in a cooling breeze. A young Warthog cavorts and suckles on the lawn, and a Rock Hyrax takes a dust-bath. Hyraxes are experiencing a major baby boom around camp. A swim is a cooling option during siesta. We set off again at 1600, but find bird activity low for an hour. Blue Cranes and a Black-bellied Bustard appear among the various mammals. Later, Crested Barbet, White-bellied Sunbird and Golden-breasted Bunting catch the late afternoon sun. Our highlight is an encounter with three White Rhinoceros: they are a mother and young calf, and more surprisingly, an adult bull, which seems to be tolerated by the mother. At the excellent buffet dinner, we enjoy the sparkling wine from Bonamanzi. Cheers, Roy! Thursday, 3 January The early drive is to the picnic site along the Pongola River. In the grassland section are Greater Striped Swallows preening, Buff-streaked Chat and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting. The track descends into a deep valley where we pick up Brimstone Canary and Lazy Cisticola together. The vegetation is lush, dominated by the orange flowers of pride-of-de-Kaap (Bauhinia) and the yellow weeping wattle (Peltophorum). In this section are Striped Pipit, Black Cuckoo and Bar-throated Apalis. Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 8

The picnic site is a welcome shady spot for breakfast, and the hot coffee very much appreciated. A Fish Eagle takes to the air and calls - most evocative of African sounds. Soon after leaving the river Martin is alert to the call of a Crowned Eagle, in roller-coaster display flight above the valley, with shimmering wings. African Firefinch and Swee Waxbill appear in the wayside grasses, and a flock of White-crested Helmet Shrikes pass by. We return to camp, passing the Ostriches and antelope (including some photogenic Tsessebe) that live on the grasslands below camp. After lunch, there is time to relax and think about packing for the homeward journey. A Red-fronted Tinkerbird gives views near reception, and a Klipspringer shows itself in silhouette on the highest crags above. The Ntshondwe Sundowner game drive (an optional extra) sets off in the camp's open truck, passing the various plains game that we now know well. One Tsessebe has a three-day-old calf, and we pass four White Rhinoceros. A Black-backed Jackal slinks away, almost hidden by long grass. Twilight birds include Black-bellied Bustard and Blue Crane; and we start spot-lighting as dusk falls. A European Nightjar is on the track ahead; further on is a fast-running Spotted Thick-knee. Spotted Eagle Owls are common, both on the track, in wayside acacias, and in flight - in all we have five. A strong wind is blowing in, and lightning illuminates the sky: the weather is changing. We arrive back at 2000, and go straight into dinner. Special thanks to Deanne for the wine! Friday, 4 January A ramble round camp before breakfast adds Greater Double-collared Sunbirds and Cape Rock Thrush to our list. The pair of sunbirds are feeding on the white flowers of brides' bush, (Pavetta). Luckily we have a cool, cloudy day for travelling. We leave Itala at 0900, passing White Rhinoceros, Eland and Red Hartebeest around the entrance gate. As we reach the boundary fence of Mkuze Falls Game Reserve, two Elephants are feeding by the road. Many passing cars stop for photos, but we have had seen plenty at Tembe and we have a plane to catch! A touch of Europe is provided by Rollers and a White Stork; and Amur Falcons become a regular sight on the wires. We break the journey with lunch in Ermelo, and stop at a pan (lake) by the road before Bethel. Here Great Crested Grebes are building nests; and among the hundreds of Red-knobbed Coot, Leon and Martin find a few Cape Shoveler and Southern Pochard. As we cross from Mpumalanga Province into Gauteng, a huge swarm of Black-winged Pratincoles fly over the road and the adjacent grasslands, hawking insects: at least 500. They winter here, in a high-altitude habitat totally different from the wetland-loving Collared, and will return to nest in Ukraine, South-west Russia and Kazakhstan. Even in the suburbs of Johannesburg we find something new: a Grey Go-away Bird flies over the road, and three Glossy Ibis are within a mile or two of the airport. Our excellent safari has taken us 2,200km (about 1,350 miles). We say our fond farewells to Leon and Martin, and check in on the South African Airways flight. It is on time, and we land at Heathrow at 0625 on Saturday morning. Goodbyes are said at the luggage carousels, as we disperse to various parts of the UK. Acknowledgements Many thanks to Leon and Martin for excellent bird-finding skills, untiring driving and patiently answering hundreds of questions about South Africa and its wildlife. Most of all, thanks to all of you who participated in the tour, and made 2007 a Christmas to remember! Finally, thanks very much to Leon for the photographs that adorn this report. Simon Boyes Ornitholidays 29 Straight Mile Romsey Hampshire SO51 9BB Tel: 01794 519445 E-mail: [email protected] January 2008 Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 9

Itinerary and Weather Wherever possible, shade temperatures at dawn and midday are given. Dec 21

Arrive Johannesburg 0815. To Wakkerstroom via Suikerbosrand. Sunny, 25°C (77°F)

Dec 22

Wakkerstroom and area. Sunny, 17-26°C (63-79°F)

Dec 23

Wakkerstroom: Amersfoort road loop. Zaaihoek Dam. Sunny, 12-27°C (54-80°F)

Dec 24

Wakkerstroom to Tembe Elephant Park via Ghost Mountain, Mkuze. Sunny, 16-31°C (61-88°F)

Dec 25

Tembe. Sunny, 19-32°C (66-90°F)

Dec 26

Tembe. Sunny, hot a.m, stormy p.m., heavy rain. 20-37°C (68-98°F)

Dec 27

Tembe to Mtubatuba via Muzi Pan and Ilala Weavers, Hluhluwe. Light rain clearing; sunny p.m. 22-29°C (72-84°F)

Dec 28

Mtubatuba. St Lucia Greater Wetland Park. Sunny, breezy, 22-29°C (72-84°F)

Dec 29

Mtubatuba. St Lucia forest & estuary. To Bonamanzi. Sunny, breezy, 21-30°C (70-86°F)

Dec 30

Bonamanzi. Flood plain safari. Sunny, 21-29°C (70-84°F)

Dec 31

Bonamanzi. Day trip to Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Provincial Park. Sunny, 21-31°C (70-88°F)

Jan 1

Bonamanzi to Itala Game Reserve via Pongola. Sunny, 23-30°C (74-86°F)

Jan 2

Itala. Sunny, 21-29°C (70-84°F)

Jan 3

Itala. Sunny, breezy; cooler and cloudier p.m. 21-27°C (70-80°F)

Jan 4

Itala to Johannesburg, via Ermelo. Depart 2130. Cloudy, 19-24°C (66-75°F)

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 10

CHECKLIST OF BIRDS SEEN DURING TOUR No of days recorded 1 2h means seen on 1 day and heard on 2 other days

Location Abundance Scale (max. seen on 1 day) J = Jo’burg & area, incl Suikerbosrand 1 = 1- 4 individuals W = Wakkerstroom & area 2= 5-9 T = Tembe 3 = 10 - 99 S = St Lucia & Mtubatuba 4 = 100 - 999 B = Bonamanzi 5 = 1,000 - 9,999 H = Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Reserve I = Itala Game Reserve > = on the way to… (E) means Endemic and (NE) Near-endemic to Southern Africa. Location letters are only given for the less widely distributed species. Two taxonomic notes ( , ) follow the list. SPECIES

No. of days recorded

Common Ostrich Great Crested Grebe Little Grebe Great White Pelican Pink-backed Pelican White-breasted Cormorant Reed Cormorant African Darter Grey Heron Black-headed Heron Goliath Heron Purple Heron Great Egret Little Egret Yellow-billed (Intermediate) Egret Black Heron (Egret) Cattle Egret (Common) Squacco Heron Striated (Green-backed) Heron Black-crowned Night-Heron Little Bittern Hamerkop White Stork Black Stork Woolly-necked Stork Yellow-billed Stork African Sacred Ibis Southern Bald Ibis (E) Glossy Ibis Hadeda Ibis African Spoonbill White-faced Duck Fulvous Duck White-backed Duck Egyptian Goose South African Shelduck (E) Yellow-billed Duck African Black Duck Hottentot Teal Red-billed Teal Cape Shoveler (E) Southern Pochard Spur-winged Goose Secretarybird White-backed Vulture

4 1 3 1 1 4 8 7 9 7 3 3 2 3 1 1 9 1 1 3 3 12 2 1 5 1 6 4 1 13 3 9 1 2 12 1 7 1 2 5 1 1 8 2 2

Location I >J W>S >S >S W

SB WSB >SB SB W >S >S B WB W>SB >I>J B TSB B W J WB >S >S>J W W W WB >J >J W HI

Abundance Scale 2 1 1 1 2 2 3 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 3 1 3 1 3 3 1 4 1 3 1 2 2 1 1 2 1 2

SCIENTIFIC NAME

Struthio camelus Podiceps cristatus Tachybaptus ruficollis Pelecanus onocrotalus Pelecanus rufescens Phalacrocorax lucidus Phalacrocorax africanus Anhinga rufa Ardea cinerea Ardea melanocephala Ardea goliath Ardea purpurea Casmerodius albus Egretta garzetta Egretta intermedia Egretta ardesiaca Bubulcus ibis Ardeola ralloides Butorides striatus Nycticorax nycticorax Ixobrychus minutus Scopus umbretta Ciconia ciconia Ciconia nigra Ciconia episcopus Mycteria ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Geronticus calvus Plegadis falcinellus Bostrychia hagedash Platalea alba Dendrocygna viduata Dendrocygna bicolor Thalassornis leuconotus Alopochen aegyptiacus Tadorna cana Anas undulata Anas sparsa Anas hottentota Anas erythrorhyncha Anas smithii Netta erythrophthalma Plectropterus gambensis Sagittarius serpentarius Gyps africanus

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 11

Yellow-billed Kite Black-shouldered Kite African Cuckoo Hawk Lesser Spotted Eagle Wahlberg’s Eagle African Hawk-Eagle Long-crested Eagle Martial Eagle African Crowned Eagle Brown Snake-Eagle Black-chested Snake-Eagle Southern Banded Snake-Eagle Bateleur Palm-nut Vulture African Fish Eagle Steppe Buzzard Jackal Buzzard (E) Lizard Buzzard Shikra African Goshawk African Marsh-Harrier Montagu's Harrier African Harrier-Hawk Osprey Amur Falcon Rock Kestrel Lesser Kestrel Crested Francolin Shelley’s Francolin Red-winged Francolin Natal Francolin (NE) Swainson's Spurfowl (NE) Common Quail Helmeted Guineafowl Crested Guineafowl Blue Crane (E) Grey Crowned Crane Black Crake African Purple Swamphen Common Moorhen Red-knobbed Coot Blue Korhaan (E) Black-bellied Bustard African Jacana Common Ringed Plover White-fronted Plover Kittlitz’s Plover Three-banded Plover Grey Plover Crowned Lapwing Black-winged Lapwing Blacksmith Lapwing African Wattled Lapwing Ruddy Turnstone Common Sandpiper Wood Sandpiper Green Sandpiper Marsh Sandpiper Common Greenshank Curlew Sandpiper Little Stint

12 9 2 2 8 2 2 1 1 4 3 3 2 2 4 13 7 1 1 1 4 2 6 2 6 2 1 1 - 2h 1 - 2h 2 1 3 6 4 3 2 2 2 5 1 4 6 2 1 2 9 2 7 1 8 4 1 6 8 2 2 6 3 3

TI T>S I S>I T I JSBI T>SS SB T S W>SSI

S >S T WB W S WI>J I W T BI W HI W W W TB WI W SB W W W>J W THI SB B >SB S W WBI S

T >SB SB SB

3 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 3 1 1 1 2 1 4 1 1 2 3 1 3 2 2 3 3 3 2 1 2 3 1 1 2 2 3

Milvus aegyptius Elanus caeruleus Aviceda cuculoides Aquila pomarina Aquila wahlbergi Hieraaetus fasciatus Lophaetus occipitalis Polemaetus bellicosus Stephanoaetus coronatus Circaetus cinereus Circaetus gallicus Circaetus fasciolatus Terathopius ecaudatus Gypohierax angolensis Haliaeetus vocifer Buteo buteo Buteo rufofuscus Kaupifalco monogrammicus Accipiter badius Accipiter tachiro Circus ranivorus Circus pygargus Polyboroides typus Pandion haliaetus Falco amurensis Falco rupicolis Falco naumanni Peliperdix sephaena Scleroptila shelleyi Scleroptila levaillantii Pternistes natalensis Pternistes swainsonii Coturnix coturnix Numida meleagris Guttera pucherani Anthropoides paradiseus Balearica regulorum Amaurornis flavirostris Porphyrio madagascariensis Gallinula chloropus Fulica cristata Eupodotis caerulescens Eupodotis melanogaster Actophilornis africanus Charadrius hiaticula Charadrius marginatus Charadrius pecuarius Charadrius tricollaris Pluvialis squatarola Vanellus coronatus Vanellus melanopterus Vanellus armatus Vanellus senegallus Arenaria interpres Actitis hypoleucos Tringa glareola Tringa ochropus Tringa stagnatilis Tringa nebularia Calidris ferruginea Calidris minuta

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 12

Ruff African Snipe Black-winged Stilt Spotted Thick-knee Water Thick-Knee Collared Pratincole Black-winged Pratincole Grey-headed Gull Caspian Tern Swift (Great Crested) Tern Lesser Crested Tern Sandwich Tern Common Tern Whiskered Tern Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Speckled Pigeon Red-eyed Dove Cape Turtle-Dove Laughing Dove Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Tambourine Dove African Green-Pigeon Livingstone's Turaco Purple-crested Turaco Grey Go-away-bird Red-chested Cuckoo Black Cuckoo Jacobin Cuckoo African Emerald Cuckoo Klaas’s Cuckoo Diderick Cuckoo Green Malkoha (Coucal) Burchell’s Coucal (NE) African Wood-Owl Spotted Eagle-Owl European Nightjar Square-tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar African Black Swift White-rumped Swift Little Swift African Palm Swift Speckled Mousebird Red-faced Mousebird Narina Trogon Pied Kingfisher Giant Kingfisher Malachite Kingfisher Brown-hooded Kingfisher Striped Kingfisher European Bee-eater Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Little Bee-eater European Roller Lilac-breasted Roller Broad-billed Roller African Hoopoe Green Wood-Hoopoe Common Scimitarbill Trumpeter Hornbill Crowned Hornbill Black-collared Barbet

3 1 4 1 4 1 2 2 3 2 1 2 1 2 1 6 8 10 6 9 2 3 1 3 1 3 1 1 3 6 1 5 1 1 1 4 10 9 5 9 4 1 8 1 4 9 1 6 5 4 8 1 1 6 1 2 4 8 9

>SSB W SB>J I B B >W>J SJ SB S S S S >W>S J WI TSB WS 1h

4h 8h 2h 1h 1h 5h

1h

TB S S TSBI J TI H H BI B SBI T I I B I

SB

1h

SHI TH

1h

B WB T

3h SB TB T T WSI T T SH

3 1 1 1 3 2 4 3 3 3 2 2 4 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 3 3 2 3 2 1 2 1 1 2 1 3 3 2 3 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2

Philomachus pugnax Gallinago nigripennis Himantopus himantopus Burhinus capensis Burhinus vermiculatus Glareola pratincola Glareola nordmanni Larus cirrocephalus Hydroprogne caspia Sterna bergii Sterna bengalensis Sterna sandvicensis Sterna hirundo Chlidonias hybridus Columba livia Columba guinea Streptopelia semitorquata Streptopelia capicola Streptopelia senegalensis Turtur chalcospilos Turtur tympanistria Treron calva Tauraco livingstonii Tauraco porphyreolophus Corythaixoides concolor Cuculus solitarius Cuculus clamosus Clamator jacobinus Chrysococcyx cupreus Chrysococcyx klaas Chrysococcyx caprius Ceuthmochares aereus Centropus burchellii Strix woodfordii Bubo africanus Caprimulgus europaeus Caprimulgus fossii Apus barbatus Apus caffer Apus affinis Cypsiurus parvus Colius striatus Urocolius indicus Apaloderma narina Ceryle rudis Ceryle maxima Alcedo cristata Halcyon albiventris Halcyon chelicuti Merops apiaster Merops persicus Merops pusillus Coracias garrulus Coracias caudata Eurystomus glaucurus Upupa africana Phoeniculus purpureus Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Bycanistes bucinator Tockus alboterminatus Lybius torquatus

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 13

White-eared Barbet Red-fronted Tinkerbird Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Crested Barbet Lesser Honeyguide Ground Woodpecker (E) Golden-tailed Woodpecker Cardinal Woodpecker Bearded Woodpecker Red-throated Wryneck Rufous-naped Lark Eastern Long-billed Lark (E) Spike-heeled Lark Red-capped Lark Barn (European) Swallow White-throated Swallow Wire-tailed Swallow Red-breasted Swallow Greater Striped Swallow (E) Lesser Striped Swallow South African Cliff-Swallow (E) Rock Martin Common House Martin Grey-rumped Swallow Brown-throated Martin Banded Martin Black Saw-wing (Swallow) Black Cuckooshrike Fork-tailed Drongo Square-tailed Drongo (Eastern) Black-headed Oriole Cape (Black) Crow Pied Crow White-necked Raven Southern Black Tit Grey Penduline Tit African Red-eyed Bulbul (NE) Dark-capped Bulbul Terrestrial Brownbul Sombre Greenbul Yellow-bellied Greenbul Eastern Nicator Kurrichane Thrush Groundscraper Thrush Cape Rock-Thrush (E) Sentinel Rock-Thrush (E) Mountain Wheatear (Chat) (NE) Buff-streaked Chat (E) Familiar Chat Mocking Cliff-Chat (Southern) Ant-eating Chat (E) African (Common) Stonechat White-browed Robin-Chat Red-capped Robin-Chat Cape Robin-Chat White-browed Scrub-Robin Brown Scrub-Robin (E) (Eastern) Bearded Scrub-Robin African Reed-Warbler Lesser Swamp-Warbler Dark-capped Yellow Warbler

3 3 3 5 5 1 2 2 2 1 9 1 1 3 15 4 2 3 8 6 3 5 2 2 2 4 7 2 8 5 3 3 4 2 8 1 1 15 3 4 4 3 4 3 1 2 1 4 2 3 4 5 1 5 2 2 1 2 1 1 1

S 5h

1h

S WSI TSB W SI TH HI W W W W W>S >SB SB WI SBH W>J WI I SB W WB BI TH TSB THI W >TH T J TS

4h 1h 1h

2h 2h

TSB TSI >SS>I WS>I I W W WI I I W>J WI >I TBI W TB S TB W W W

2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 2 5 2 1 2 3 3 3 2 1 2 2 3 3 1 3 2 1 2 2 1 3 1 1 3 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Stactolaema leucotis Pogoniulus pusillus Pogoniulus bilineatus Trachyphonus vaillantii Indicator minor Geocolaptes olivaceus Campethera abingoni Dendropicos fuscescens Dendropicos namaquus Jynx ruficollis Mirafra africana Certhilauda semitorquata Chersomanes albofasciata Calandrella cinerea Hirundo rustica Hirundo albigularis Hirundo smithii Hirundo semirufa Hirundo cucullata Hirundo abyssinica Hirundo spilodera Hirundo fuligula Delichon urbica Pseudhirundo griseopyga Riparia paludicola Riparia cincta Psalidoprocne holomelas Campephaga flava Dicrurus adsimilis Dicrurus ludwigii Oriolus larvatus Corvus capensis Corvus albus Corvus albicollis Parus niger Anthoscopus caroli Pycnonotus nigricans Pycnonotus barbatus Phyllastrephus terrestris Andropadus importunus Chlorocichla flaviventris Nicator gularis Turdus libonyanus Turdus litsitsirupa Monticola rupestris Monticola explorator Oenanthe monticola Oenanthe bifasciata Cercomela familiaris Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris Myrmecocichla formicivora Saxicola torquata Cossypha heuglini Cossypha natalensis Cossypha caffra Erythropygia leucophrys Erythropygia signata Erythropygia quadrivirgata Acrocephalus baeticatus Acrocephalus gracilirostris Chloropeta natalensis

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 14

Little Rush-Warbler Willow Warbler Bar-throated Apalis Yellow-breasted Apalis Rudd's Apalis (E) Long-billed Crombec Green-backed Camaroptera Stierling’s (Barred) Wren-Warbler Cape Grassbird (E) Zitting (Fan-tailed) Cisticola Cloud Cisticola Wing-snapping Cisticola Wailing Cisticola Rattling Cisticola Red-faced Cisticola Rufous-winged Cisticola Levaillant’s Cisticola Croaking Cisticola Lazy Cisticola Neddicky Tawny-flanked Prinia Drakensberg Prinia (E) Spotted Flycatcher African Dusky Flycatcher Ashy Flycatcher Grey Tit-Flycatcher Southern Black Flycatcher Pale Flycatcher Fiscal Flycatcher (E) Cape Batis (E) Chinspot Batis Woodward's Batis (NE) Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher African Paradise Flycatcher African Pied Wagtail Cape Wagtail African Pipit Long-billed Pipit Striped Pipit Yellow-breasted Pipit (E) Cape Longclaw (E) Yellow-throated Longclaw Rosy-throated Longclaw Common Fiscal Red-backed Shrike Southern Boubou (E) Black-backed Puffback Brubru Brown-crowned Tchagra Black-crowned Tchagra Bokmakierie (E) Gorgeous Bush-Shrike Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike Olive Bush-Shrike White-crested Helmet-Shrike Retz's Helmet-Shrike Common (European) Starling Common (Indian) Myna (African) Pied Starling (E) Violet-backed Starling Cape Glossy Starling

1 4 1 5 4 5 3 2 8 3 10 1 1 3 6 2 5 5 1 5 1 2 1 8 2 1 2 4 1 1 5 7 5 8 2 1 1 7 6 1 13 6 3 6 2 3 2 1 3 2 1 2 4 10 4 9 9

1h 1h 1h 1h 5h 1h 1h 2h 1h

1h 2h

W WHI I TSB TBI T WI WI W J H >S W TBI I TI W TSI I T B TB J I TBH T S SBI SBI WSH

1h

3h 1h

2h 1h 2h 4h 2h

W I W WBI SBH B TBI TBI TI TH TB W TBH TSB B I T W>J W

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 1 1 3 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 2 2 1 3 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 3

Bradypterus baboecala Phylloscopus trochilus Apalis thoracica Apalis flavida Apalis ruddi Sylvietta rufescens Camaroptera brachyura Calamonastes stierlingi Sphenoeacus afer Cisticola juncidis Cisticola textrix Cisticola ayresii Cisticola lais Cisticola chiniana Cisticola erythrops Cisticola galactotes Cisticola tinniens Cisticola natalensis Cisticola aberrans Cisticola fulvicapillus Prinia subflava Prinia hypoxantha Muscicapa striata Muscicapa adusta Muscicapa caerulescens Myioparus plumbeus Melaenornis pammelaina Melaenornis pallidus Sigelus silens Batis capensis Batis molitor Batis fratrum Trochocercus cyanomelas Terpsiphone viridis Motacilla aguimp Motacilla capensis Anthus cinnamomeus Anthus similis Anthus lineiventris Hemimacronyx chloris Macronyx capensis Macronyx croceus Macronyx ameliae Lanius collaris Lanius collurio Laniarius ferrugineus Dryoscopus cubla Nilaus afer Tchagra australis Tchagra senegala Telophorus zeylonus Telophorus quadricolor Telophorus sulfureopectus Telophorus olivaceus Prionops plumatus Prionops retzii Sturnus vulgaris Acridotheres tristis Spreo bicolor Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Lamprotornis nitens

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 15

Black-bellied Starling 6 TSB 2 Lamprotornis corruscus Red-winged Starling 8 2 Onychognathus morio Red-billed Oxpecker 7 3 Buphagus erythrorhynchus Malachite Sunbird 3 W 1 Nectarinia famosa Purple-banded Sunbird 5 TBH 1 Nectarinia bifasciata Neergaard's Sunbird (E) 1 T 1 Nectarinia neergaardi Greater Double-collared Sunbird (E) 1 I 1 Nectarinia afra White-bellied Sunbird 6 TBI 2 Nectarinia talatala Grey Sunbird 3 TSB 1 Nectarinia veroxii Eastern Olive Sunbird 2 TS 1 Nectarinia olivacea Scarlet-chested Sunbird 6 SBI 1 Nectarinia senegalensis Amethyst Sunbird 1 I 1 Nectarinia amethystina Collared Sunbird 3 TSI 1 Anthreptes collaris Plain-backed Sunbird 1 T 1 Anthreptes reichenowi Cape White-eye (E) 10 3 Zosterops pallidus African Yellow White-eye 1 T 1 Zosterops senegalensis White-browed Sparrow-Weaver 1 J 1 Plocepasser mahali House Sparrow 8 3 Passer domesticus Cape Sparrow (NE) 3 W 1 Passer melanurus Southern Grey-headed Sparrow 5 WS 1 Passer diffusus Yellow-throated Petronia 4 HI 2 Petronia superciliaris Thick-billed Weaver 5 >SBI 2 Amblyospiza albifrons Dark-backed Weaver 3 TSB 1 Ploceus bicolor Spectacled Weaver 4 SH 1 Ploceus ocularis Village Weaver 4 >TS 3 Ploceus cucullatus Cape Weaver (E) 5 WI 3 Ploceus capensis Southern Masked-Weaver 5 W>SH 2 Ploceus velatus Lesser Masked-Weaver 5 TBI 2 Ploceus intermedius Yellow Weaver 4 SB 3 Ploceus subaureus Southern Brown-throated Weaver 1 >S 2 Ploceus xanthopterus Red-billed Quelea 2 W 2 Quelea quelea Red-headed Quelea 1 >S 3 Quelea erythrops Southern Red Bishop 9 4 Euplectes orix Yellow-crowned Bishop 4 W>J 3 Euplectes afer Fan-tailed Widowbird 11 3 Euplectes axillaris White-winged Widowbird 2 W>I 2 Euplectes albonotatus Red-collared Widowbird 7 WI 3 Euplectes ardens Long-tailed Widowbird 5 W>J 4 Euplectes progne Pink-throated Twinspot (E) 2 T 1 Hypargos margaritatus African Firefinch 2 TI 1 Lagonosticta rubricata Red-billed Firefinch 2 SH 1 Lagonosticta senegala Blue Waxbill 2 TH 1 Uraeginthus angolensis Common Waxbill 6 3 Estrilda astrild Grey Waxbill 2 TH 2 Estrilda perreini Swee Waxbill (E) 1 I 2 Estrilda melanotis Bronze Mannikin 5 TS 3 Spermestes cucullatus Red-backed Mannikin 2 T 1 Spermestes nigriceps Pin-tailed Whydah 14 3 Vidua macroura Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah 1 J 1 Vidua paradisaea Dusky Indigobird 5 THI 1 Vidua funerea Village Indigobird 2 BH 1 Vidua chalybeata Yellow-fronted Canary 10 3 Serinus mozambicus Lemon-breasted Canary (NE) 2 B 1 Serinus citrinipectus Cape Canary 5 W>J 3 Serinus canicollis Brimstone Canary 1 I 1 Serinus sulphuratus Streaky-headed Seedeater 1 J 1 Serinus gularis Golden-breasted Bunting 3 THI 1 Emberiza flaviventris Cinnamon-breasted Bunting 5 WI 1 Emberiza tahapisi TAXONOMIC NOTES White-breasted Cormorant: often regarded as conspecific with Great Cormorant, P. carbo.

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 16

Rock Kestrel: the Southern African forms are usually lumped with European Kestrel. MAMMALS Baboon, Chacma 4 HI 3 Papio ursinus Bat, Fruit (Peter's Epauletted) 2 B>I 2 Epomophorus crypturus Blesbok 2 W>I 3 Damaliscus dorcas phillipsi Buffalo 1 H 2 Syncerus caffer Bushbaby, Thick-tailed 3 T 1 Otolemur crassicaudatus Bushbuck 3 SHI 1 Tragelaphus scriptus Dassie, Rock (Hyrax) 5 WI 4 Procavia capensis Duiker, Common 2 TI 1 Sylvicapra grimmia Duiker, Red 9 2 Cephalophus natalensis Eland 2 JI 2 Taurotragus oryx Elephant, African 4 TH>J 2 Loxodonta africana Giraffe, Southern 6 THI 3 Giraffa camelopardalis Hartebeest, Red 4 >WI 3 Alcelaphus buselaphus Hippopotamus 3 S 3 Hippopotamus amphibius Impala 12 3 Aepyceros melampus Jackal, Black-backed 1 I 1 Canis mesomelas Klipspringer 1 I 1 Oreotragus oreotragus Kudu, Greater 7 3 Tragelaphus strepsiceros Lion 1 T 2 Panthera leo Mongoose, Slender 4 WTB 1 Galerella sanguinea Mongoose, Yellow 2 W 1 Cynictis penicillata Monkey, Samango (Blue) 2 T 1 Cercopithecus mitis Monkey, Vervet 10 3 Cercopithecus aethiops Nyala 8 TB 3 Tragelaphus angasii Reedbuck, Common 4 SBI 1 Redunca arundinum Reedbuck, Mountain 3 I 3 Redunca fulvorufula Rhinoceros, White 4 HI 3 Ceratotherium simum Springbok 2 >W>I 2 Antidorcas marsupialis Squirrel, (Tongaland) Red 2 TS 1 Paraxerus palliatus Suricate (Meerkat) 1 W 3 Suricata suricatta Tsessebe 3 I 3 Damaliscus lunatus Warthog 10 3 Phacochoerus aethiopicus Waterbuck, Common 2 TI 1 Kobus ellipsiprymnus Wildebeest, Black 1 J 2 Connochaetes gnou Wildebeest, Blue 8 3 Connochaetes taurinus Zebra, Burchell's 9 3 Equus burchelli OTHER ANIMALS included Nile Crocodile, Rock Monitor, Nile Monitor, Rock Agama, Tree Agama, Drakensberg Crag Lizard, Leopard Tortoise, Serrated-hinged Terrapin, Painted Reed Frog. BUTTERFLIES included Blue Pansy, Citrus Swallowtail, Emperor Swallowtail, Green-banded Swallowtail, Mamba Swordtail, African Grass Yellow, Diadem, Common Bush Brown. DRAGONFLIES included Banded Groundling, Tigertail. This list represents those birds and other animals seen by party members of this tour.

© Ornitholidays Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 17

African Jacana, Bonamanzi

Blue Crane, Wakkerstroom

Black-bellied Bustard, Hluhluwe

Long-tailed Widowbird, Wakkerstroom

Secretarybird, Wakkerstroom

White-faced Ducks, Bonamanzi

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 18

Bull Elephant, Tembe

Female Nyala, Bonamanzi

Zebra, Hluhluwe

Painted Reed Frog, Bonamanzi

Elegant Grasshopper, Bonamanzi

Ithala coffee stop Front cover: Blue Cranes, Ithala All photographs © Leon Marais

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 19

Ornitholidays’ Tour to South Africa 20 December 2007 – 05 January 2008 Page 20