Portugal Biking 2016 Activity Level: Recreational | Duration: 6 Days/5 Nights
Discovering Alentejo _____________
Experience Portugal East of Lisbon, across the Tagus River, sprawls Alentejo, one of Portugal’s largest regions. Overshadowed by its more famous neighbours to the north and south (the Douro and the Algarve), Alentejo is in fact the country’s culinary and cultural heartland, where sleepy villages dot a landscape of farmland, cork forests, olive groves, vineyards, and sinewy man-made lakes. It also offers superb cycling, and we’ll use our bikes to explore its myriad aspects, from the placid waters of Lake Maranhão to the cobbled streets of UNESCO-recognized Evora. In the late 20th century, when B&R first offered biking here, it was still somewhat rough around the edges, befitting its history as desolate frontier territory. Two decades later, we are thrilled to find the region refined and welcoming with a lingering touch of rustic, and we invite you to come (re)discover it with us!
To celebrate our 50th year in business, we’ve dipped into the archive to craft new trips for 2016 that revisit some of our favourite corners of the globe.
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the journey p.2 view > / notes from the road p.5 view > / the details p.6 view > / next steps p.7 view >
Portugal Biking 2016 The Journey
Alentejo cuts a broad swath across central Portugal, extending from the Atlantic Coast to the Spanish border.
the journey _____________
Days 1 & 2 Avis and Lake Maranhão ‘ALENTEJO,’ LITERALLY TRANSLATED, MEANS ‘ACROSS THE River Tagus,’ and after our rendezvous in Lisbon, we will do just that and cross this broad waterway by means of the elegant Vasco da Gama Bridge. The maritime aspect of the coast gives way to the landscapes of Alentejo – the air is warmer and drier here, incubating the stands of cork and olive trees that dominate our views. We’re on our bikes by mid-morning, pedaling through the groves en route to our first lunch in tiny San Antonio de Alcórrego, whose cheery proprietor gives us an introduction to regional fare. Specialties include veal, pork, sheep’s cheese, codfish and plentiful mushrooms. From lunch, it’s a short ride through the herdades, or ranches, to our hotel overlooking Lake Maranhão. This elongated body of water was created with the damming of its small watershed in 1956 in an effort to safeguard the water supply during the long, sere summers – temperatures here often exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The dam, one of many of its kind in the area, also generates electricity to serve the neighbouring communities. And because Portugal has a big tile painting tradition, we will invite you to express your artistic self with the help of a local artist. With the sun setting over the lake, we’ll enjoy cocktails on the terrace while our friend Melanie gives us an historic overview of Portugal before an alfresco dinner from the hotel’s topnotch kitchen.
The next day we enjoy breakfast before embarking on a morning ride through the surrounding countryside. Here, for the first time, we get up close with the curious cork trees, whose irregular and malleable bark is used to produce the manufactured cork we associate with wine bottles. When harvested, trees are stripped of their bark from near the ground to about ten feet up, so most of them have a curious combination of regular branches on high black exposed wood below. It takes nine years for the bark to re-grow; smart cork farmers will divide their groves into nine sections and harvest one a year, so as to have output (and cash flow!) every year. Close to the end of the ride we have prepared a pic-nic lunch at the most idyllic location: a chapel overlooking the lake. During the afternoon take advantage of the glorious infinity pool, state of the art fitness centre, or water-ski course. As the evening shadows lengthen, we’ll hop a 20-minute coach ride around the lake to meet a wine and olive oil producer and a oak tree farmer on his herdade along the pristine shores. Dinner will be served by the family alongside a tasting of all products made in the farm. HOTEL
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Herdade da Cortesia, Avis This high-design property is the brainchild of an architect and an economist. Slung low in a leaf-shape overlooking Lake Maranhão, the hotel combines refined décor with personable service. Amenities include California King beds, and small private terraces in every room; the setting of the infinity pool is inspiring, particularly at sunset.
THE ACTIVITY
Day 1: A 33 km (20.5 mi.) ride through quiet countryside of olive groves and farms. The terrain is mostly easygoing but there are two short climbs before and after lunch. Elevation gain: 230 m (760 ft)
Day 2: A 40 km (25 mi.) mostly flat ride with similar landscapes to the first day, with a morning option to stretch it out another 26 km (16 mi.). There are a few short sections of rough pavement halfway along. For the more enthusiasts
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we offer a century ride that adds 50km (31 mi.) before lunch. Elevation gain:395 m (1295 ft)
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Evora thrived for 450 years as a Muslim city.
Portugal Biking 2016 The Journey
Days 3 & 4 Evora Today we ride away from the Maranhão south to the small city of Evora, and along the way, a new vista will appear around us: vineyards. Portugal is one of Europe’s leading wine-producing nations, and Alentejo is the most prolific oenological region within it, so the rows of carefully tended vines that spin into view should come as no surprise. We’ll pause for lunch at a characteristic family run winery, sampling the local vintages along with our private homemade meal – Portugal is known for good robust reds, but the whites are surprisingly impressive as well. Later, we pedal on to our hotel on the outskirts of Evora; once a prominent religious abbey in medieval times, its soaring white walls and church dome make it an impressive sight as it rounds into view. After check-in, we’ll have some time to enjoy our surroundings – massage, swim, or a game of pool are all good options - before a brief but fascinating tour of the premises. It’s not often that one gets to sleep within such historic walls. We’ll finish up our exploration at the hotel’s Divinus restaurant, where dinner will be served. The next day we will be discovering Evora. Itself a UNESCO heritage site, declared in 1986, the city offers a bit of everything, from the remains of a 1st century Roman temple to a an aqueduct from the XVI century with many of its arches intact. The morning starts with a short transfer to the city of Redondo to start of our ride. The views along the way are predominantly marked by a variety of crops, wheat fields and vineyards. The proximity to a city like Évora guarantees farmers access to water and therefore more options of plantations. Here, too, it is lunch on your own; and before the short ride Other questions? Contact us 800 678 1147
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back to our hotel a city centre visit demands an expertled walking tour, whose most memorable highlight may well be the Chapel of Bones within the Church of St. Francis – it is a simultaneously awe-inspiring and grisly sight. In the evening we’ll meet up to visit Cartuxa, one of Alentejo’s finest wineries whose vineyards practically reach the city walls, for a tour, tasting and a short live demonstration of Cante Alentejano, the local folk song tradition that has been designated a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage. At tour’s end we disperse among Evora’s excellent dining options for dinner on our own; your guides will be happy to make recommendations and reservations in advance.
HOTEL
Convento do Espinheiro Housed in a stunning ex-monastery named for a hawthorn bush, Espinheiro leaves guests wanting for nothing. Its hallowed walls harbour two swimming pools, a spa, spacious and comfortable common areas, and rooms with views across olive groves and gardens. The church just off reception may not be of practical use to us, but it is a wonder to behold and a landmark in Portuguese history.
THE ACTIVITY
Day 3: A moderate 47 km (29 mi.) ride through the nowfamiliar landscape of olive groves and farms, with vineyards to boot. The terrain is mostly easygoing but there are a few short climbs interspersed. The long option takes you door to door with an increment of 16km (10 mi) in the morning. Elevation gain: 325 m (1066 ft)
Day 4: A 47 km (29 mi.) one-way ride on gently undulating terrain from Redondo to Evora. There are a few short sections of rough pavement halfway along. Elevation gain: 324 m (1062 ft)
Cork farming, due to the limited supply and huge global demand, is generally a lucrative “crop.”
Portugal Biking 2016 The Journey
Day 5 Montemoro-o-Novo We bid farewell to Evora and for our final day’s ride meander through the villages and forests to its west. After the culture-richness of the past two days, this is a chance to enjoy the perfumed air of the Alentejano countryside one last time. Our ride – and our riding – rolls to a glorious conclusion in the hamlet of Santiago de Escoural, at a delightful family-run casual restaurant, before we transfer the short distance to the next hotel. And what a hotel! There is ample time to check out the pool or spa, or simply to luxuriate in our expansive suite, with views over the vineyards. The property is, in fact, an extension of a working winery; during pre-dinner cocktails that kick off the celebration of our experience together we couldn’t let you go before listening to the very Portuguese muical genre: Fado, preformed by a prominent local singer. Dinner this evening saves the best for last: a modern twist on classic regional fare, served in style in the hotel’s restaurant. Bon apetitit! _____________
Day 6 Farewell and Boa Viagem! We’ll depart the hotel this morning for the 90-minute transfer to Lisbon airport. For travellers wishing to stay in the capital, taxis are readily available for the short drive into the city centre.
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HOTEL
L’AND Resort and Vineyards A cluster of avant-garde buildings nestled among the vines, L’AND delivers comfort and service of the highest calibre. If there’s a chill in the evening air – or even if there is not! – ask the concierge to prepare a fire in your personal fireplace on the terrace of your suite.
THE ACTIVITY
Day 5: A moderate ride of 42 km (26 mi.), all in the morning, with several ups and downs along the way. Once beyond Evora’s environs, the roads are very quiet throughout. For the most avid riders, an optional ride in afternoon to our hotel is available, increasing 18km (11 mi) to the regular ride. Elevation gain: 417 m (1368 ft)
The town of Arraiolos is well-known for its intricate rug-making, testament to the long Muslim presence in the region during the Middle Ages.
Portugal Biking 2016 Notes From The Road
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In Portugal, a Perfect Pace to Life _____________
By Telmo Barros Last year I was invited by Butterfield to plan a trip in Alentejo and my heart started pumping with happiness and pride. B&R is coming to my native Portugal! Olive groves, vineyards, cork trees and oak trees make up the bulk of the local vegetation in the region. As a region mainly dedicated to agriculture, it’s easy to see how the slow pace of the work shaped the laid back nature of the natives. A cork tree, for instance, will take five years to give its first cork, and after that the (always manual) process of cork collection takes place every nine years. Alentejanos thus respect the all-natural process of growing and collecting what the earth gives to them. After re-acquainting myself with the region’s landscapes and routes, I knew I had to dig just a little deeper to come up with events that would truly reveal the region. I wanted to share something more with our travellers— after all it was my country, and I knew what I wanted to show. The question was how to find it. And the answer, it turned out, was all in the rhythm of the research. After a couple of days I started parking my car in the centre of villages and making inquiries of the locals, who normally spend their afternoons sitting in the shade of the main church in the village centre. After introducing myself and asking my first question, the answer was always the same: “Why don’t you sit down and tell us a bit about yourself?” On many occasions I forgot I had a notebook in my hand as I found myself sharing Other questions? Contact us 800 678 1147
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childhood stories with strangers, who quickly came to feel like old friends I had known forever. Their readiness to help and answer questions took me to the homes of many new friends, and saw me share in many (seemingly never-ending) meals. These meals always took place in a dining room full of family photos—accompanied by stories and memories that the hosts were happy to share. I wasn’t a stranger anymore. I didn’t feel like a researcher for B&R either. I was in my own country, having a true experience of a region that meant so much to me. And this was how the trip came together. From lunches at the family table of award-winning wine producers and olive oil tastings in convents, to visits to familyowned private eco-systems that preserve all types of local animals, at its core this trip is a series of authentic, true experiences—which the Alentejo people are all too happy to share.
B&R REGIONAL EXPERT
Telmo Barros Telmo calls his burning passion for outdoors adventures a calling, and rightfully so. After growing up on the Portuguese shores of the Atlantic ocean surfing, swimming, sailing and diving, he swapped the sea (“my second home”) for the slopes, dividing his winters between the Catalan Pyrenees and the peaks of western Canada.
Portugal Biking 2016 The Details
Vila Viçosa, in eastern Alentejo, is Europe’s second-leading producer of marble, after Carrara in Italy.
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Atlantic Ocean FRANCE
PORTUGAL Atlantic Ocean
PORTUGAL
Avis
SPAIN
Lisbon
Mediterranean Sea
Lisbon
Evora Montemor-o-Novo
2016 Price: From $4,495
the details _____________
(from $500 single supplement) Single supplement is based on the most affordable rooms within B&R’s allocation. Upgrades often available. _________________________
Duration 6 Days / 5 Nights Please see our website for list of departures.* *Some departures use a slightly different itinerary. Please call for details. _________________________
Start
HOTEL TYPE
BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL, LISBON
Signature Hotels
www.bairroaltohotel.com
Hotels on our Signature trips are unique expressions of the region. Oftentimes that means they’ve had a previous life as a monastery or a castle, but in every case it means they offer both an exceptionally comfortable stay and a taste of the region’s culture. Best of all, we’re friends with our hoteliers. (Translation? Preferential treatment for you.)
This elegant property, a member of the Leading Hotels group, sits in a wonderful location where the Baixa, Chiado, and Bairro Alto neighbourhoods meet – all are among Lisbon’s most interesting. The view of the Tagus River and the harbour from the rooftop bar have made it one of the city’s most cachet social spots.
LEVEL OF ACTIVITY
WHAT’S INCLUDED
Recreational
• All hotel accommodation • All breakfasts, four lunches and four dinners, including wine. • Services of B&R guide(s) and support van • All special events, private tours, guest experts and entrance fees. • Use of a customized hybrid or a racing bike with drop bars, equipped with handlebar bag and helmet. • Detailed maps, route suggestions and water bottle. • All transportation from rendezvous to drop-off • All gratuities for baggage, porters and hotel service.
The riding varies, with a few hills here and there but also plenty of flat/downhill. Roads are delightfully quiet, although with the occasional short rough patch. Both hybrid and road bikes are perfectly suitable for this trip’s terrain and roads.
Lisbon Bairro Alto Hotel
MORE INFO
8:30am
How do I get to Lisbon?
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Your likely point of arrival into Portugal will be through Lisbon. From the aiport, you can take a 20 minute ride to Bairro Alto Hotel.
Finish Lisbon Airport 10:30am
Other questions? Contact us 800 678 1147
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The itinerary information may vary slightly for your specific departure as we continuously research and develop each trip. Inclement weather may also necessitate minor alterations. Prices are per person and in USD. © 2016 Butterfield & Robinson Inc.
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Portugal Biking 2016 Your Next Steps
your next steps _____________
At Butterfield & Robinson, the guiding starts while you’re still at home. We make sure you
EXTENDING YOUR TRIP
know everything you need to know before you’ve
Lisbon was recently hailed as Europe’s hippest
even left your living room.
city, and its streets and squares crackle with youthful energy. It is perhaps the world’s most
READY TO BOOK? • Call or email a Travel Advisor (or your travel agent) with any remaining questions, and to
Weather: Lisbon
reserve your space. 1-800-678-1147 /
[email protected] • Reserve your flights to and from the region.
month
high
low
Jan/Feb
60
47
Mar/Apr
67
52
• Make sure your passport is up to date.
May/Jun
75
60
• Enquire after travel insurance.
Jul/Aug
83
65
Sep/Oct
77
62
Nov/Dec
63
51
• Book your hotel accommodation for the night before your B&R trip.
walkable major capital, and excellent restaurants abound among the shops and museums. We’ll happily recommend a city guide if you want an insider’s tour to enhance your stay here.
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your B&R experience—big, small or downright quirky—please call a Travel Advisor, or contact your travel professional. We are always happy to help.
about a month before you leave, we will send you a list of your fellow travellers, final rendezvous instructions and your hotel contact numbers.
Other questions? Contact us 800 678 1147
[email protected]
The itinerary information may vary slightly for your specific departure as we continuously research and develop each trip. Inclement weather may also necessitate minor alterations. Prices are per person and in USD. © 2016 Butterfield & Robinson Inc.