Uzbekistan The Silk Road & Beyond and Asrlar Sadosi The Ageless Traveler™ www.TheAgelessTraveler.com 6 Cedar Ridge Rd. Lebanon, NJ 08833 [email protected]

Uzbekistan: The Silk Road & Beyond

The Ageless Traveler™

Copyright 2013 by Adriane G. Berg. All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. Excerpt as permitted under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a data base or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. ISBN Number: The views, opinions and ideas expressed in this book are solely those of the author. They are not necessarily those of any organization, corporation, entity or person with whom the author presently has, in the past has had, or may in the future have, a business connection, including: The Government of Uzbekistan and The Fund Forum Uzbekistan. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. All information in the book is the property of Adriane G. Berg or the information providers and is protected by copyright and intellectual property laws. You may not reproduce, re-transmit, disseminate, sell, publish, broadcast, or circulate the information or material in this book without the express written consent of Adriane G. Berg or the other information providers herein. Library of Congress Cataloging – in – publication data ISBN NO: Uzbekistan, Silk Road & Beyond/by Adriane G. Berg. – First edition. The Ageless Traveler™ and Ageless Traveler™and The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy, as well as the logos associated therewith, used in this publication, are trademarks owned by Adrian G. Berg. All Rights Reserved

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The Ageless Traveler™ Presents:

Uzbekistan The Silk Road & Beyond and Asrlar Sadosi 2013 Table of Contents Acknowledgments 4 The Fund Forum 5 The Ageless Traveler 5 Uzbekistan – Geography 7 Uzbekistan – A Brief History for Travelers 9 Places to Visit 11 Tashkent 11 Bukhara 13 Samarkand 15 Khiva 18 Nukus 21 Shakhrisabz 23 The FESTIVAL OF ASRALAR SADOSI 26 Food Fest 30 Shopping & Fashion Fest 33 People Watching 34 Create a Joyful Adventure 37 The Ageless Traveler™ Health Hints and Tips 40

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Acknowledgments We would like to thank: Gulnara Karimova, Founder and Chair of the Board of Trustees, Forum of Culture and Arts of Uzbekistan Foundation. The UNESCO Office in Uzbekistan for their tireless work in that nation. Dr. Durbek Amanov, Consul General of Uzbekistan in New York, whose graciousness made us comfortable in our journey and ready to return to Uzbekistan at a moment’s notice. Zulya Rajabova, America’s greatest Ambassador to Uzbekistan and Founder of Silk Road Treasure Tours, in New Jersey, without whom we would never have discovered Uzbekistan. And all the wonderful young people who acted as guides, all of whom became our friends. “See you on Facebook”. All those numerous volunteers, staff and performers at Asrlar Sadosi.

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The Fund Forum As the Ageless Traveler™ touring Uzbekistan you will benefit from the workings of an organization called the Fund Forum, but more formally known as the Forum of Culture and Arts of Uzbekistan Foundation. This NGO has the formidable goal of supporting local science, culture, education, sports and arts as well as the Uzbekistan entrepreneurial spirit, and traditional legacies. It engages public figures , not only from within the country, but from all over the world and uses young talent as avid volunteers to nurture every aspect of the organization, as well as to prepare themselves to flourish and mature in business, art, learning and global culture. The founder and trustee of the Fund Forum is Harvard educated Ms. Gulnara Karimova, philanthropist, diplomat and doctor of political sciences. From festivals to fashion weeks, from UNESCO restorations to publishing, the Fund Forum is ubiquitous in promoting Uzbekistan’s arts, literature and business development. It has offices in Moscow, New York, Beijing, Tokyo, Paris, Vienna, Geneva, Madrid, Berlin, Vienna, and London. The Fund Forum is instrumental in creating festivals like Asrlar Sadosi-Echo of the Centuries, which you will read about later on, which in 2013 attracted visitors from 65 countries this year alone. The Fund Forum acts very much like a combination of a Ministry of Tourism, Ministry of Culture and Sports, and a Ministry of Economic Development, all in one.

The Ageless Traveler™ The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy is devoted to assuring that you and your loved ones can travel anywhere, anytime and at any age. Our mission is to empower you to be a lifelong traveler with the know-how, tools, products and resources which lead to the experiences you crave. Read our full story at www.TheAgelessTraveler.com .

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The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy is the consumer division of Ageless Traveler Consulting, www.AgelessTravelerConsulting.com , a marketing, branding and strategic alliance consultancy that advises the hospitality industry on how to build, staff, and create experiences that attract the boomer and older adult. Clients include hotels, spas, tourist boards, CVB's, restaurants and tour packagers who seek to attract boomers or older adults for business or leisure travel.

The Authors: Adriane Berg & Stuart Bochner Founders of The Ageless Traveler™, LifeLong Travel Made Easy

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Uzbekistan – Geography The Republic of Uzbekistan is located in the middle of Central Asia , between the rivers Amudarya and Sirdarya. The capital of the country is Tashkent , located at the east of the republic. It is bordered by Turkmenistan in the west, Kazakhstan in the north and in the east, Kirgizistan and Tadjikistan and a small part of Afghanistan in the south. The territory of the republic is 447.4 sq. Km, and it is divided into 12 main administrative centers and semi-autonomous Republic of Karakalpakistan. The country is about one-tenth larger in area than the state of California. Uzbekistan is a dry, landlocked country of which 11% consists of intensely cultivated, irrigated river valleys. More than 60% of its population lives in densely populated rural communities. Geographers say it's "doubly landlocked," that is, surrounded by other landlocked countries. The only other doubly landlocked country is Liechtenstein. Independent since 1991, it has recently seen robust economic growth with low unemployment. There are Turan Lowland in the northwest, and TienShan and Pamir-Alay mountain ridges in the southeast of the territory. Kyzyl-Kum Desert is in the North. Mostly flat-to-rolling sandy desert with dunes; broad, flat intensely irrigated river valleys along course of Amu Darya, Sirdaryo (Syr Darya), and Zarafshon; Fergana Valley in east surrounded by mountainous Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan; shrinking Aral Sea in west.

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Two thirds of the country, mainly in the west, consist of steppes and deserts, are stopped only by the delta of Amoudarya, which flows in the Aral sea . The relief is pronounced a little more in the east, towards the mountains situated in the countries bordering where the sources of the rivers irrigating the country. The most significant river of the Central Asia, Amoudarya mainly acts as a natural border with Turkmenistan and Afghanistan . The most fertile grounds, where the majority of the population live, are located in the valleys, near the alluvial plains and of the three rivers, Amoudarya, Syrdarya and Zerafshan. Uzbekistan is now the world's second-largest cotton exporter, a large producer of gold and natural gas, and a regionally significant producer of chemicals and machinery.

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Uzbekistan – A Brief History for Travelers In the year 1360 Amir Temur defeated the Mongol armies in Central Asia and then became the governor of a huge territory. He waged successful military initiatives in Iran, Khorezm (now a region of Uzbekistan), the Golden Horde and the caucuses to amass a wide Empire. Prior to his death his diverse civil/military agenda included plans to both march on China and stimulate the Renaissance of the Middle East. It was under his reign that Samarkand and the Silk Road flourished. This was so because Amir Temur was not just a military genius but also a great entrepreneur. He formed a one-man Small Business Association when he decided to bankroll the merchants of his empire . He understood the importance of trade to his expansion and power. Within the Amir Temur Empire borders lie today’s major cities of the Legendary Silk Road, where Uzbek, Russian, Tajik, as well as English and a polyglot of languages are spoken. Uzbekistan is now home to modern commerce as evidenced by the growth of its capital, Tashkent . But, for the traveler it is the lure of the exotic, the ancient and the romantic sites of Bukhara, Khiva, and Samarkand that transports us back to the Days of the Silk Road and Spice Road and channels our inner Marco Polo. The Silk Road is not a single road, but many roads that were traversed by those from Europe, Central and Eastern Asia, and which eventually created a mingling of Western and Eastern culture and practices which are very much alive today. No wonder that the iconic cities of Bukhara, Khiva , Samarkand and the capital Tashkent are a treasure trove of madressahs (schools), mosques, minarets and UNESCO sites. When you go, take an empty suitcase and a curious spirit. It's easy to have the Explorer mindset as in days gone by, and open up new roads of discovery with foods, spices, silks, and embroideries that were acknowledged as the finest in past civilizations. Envision the ancient people from Persia, Europe, Turkey, the Middle East, China all coming for one purpose, to evolve from primitive man to modern man through the path of spiritual, commercial and scientific discovery. For The Ageless Traveler™, Uzbekistan is a time machine through which you will gradually roll 9

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back the centuries in gentle steps, from disco loving modern Tashkent until you reach the time of Shem, Noah's son, purported to have built a well at Khiva.

As for modern times, in 1991 a quiet revolution removed the Soviets who had occupied and governed the country since the time of the Civil War in the United States.

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Places to Visit Tashkent

Admittedly, you will miss the heart of Uzbekistan if you stay only in this modern capital. But, we loved Tashkent and would recommend it for its beauty, history and taste of the Silk Road culture. Earthquake Square – in 1966 Tashkent was nearly demolished by an earthquake and then rebuilt according to Soviet style architectural design. The statue commemorating the earthquake and the rebuilding of the city is impressive with its craggy corruptions and larger-than-life heroic figures. The Ageless Traveler™ familiar with East Berlin or St. Petersburg will recognize the wide boulevards, impressive plantings and the modern bustle of the city. One of our favorite explorations was the Metro which is the only one in Central Asia. It boasts 29 stations all ornately designed by Uzbekistani artisans. It's one of the few places that you still cannot take a photograph because it is considered a military property. Our favorite 30 cent ride was from the Cosmonaut Station to the Main Government Plaza. Glass sculptures, craftsmen chandeliers worthy of Frank Lloyd Wright, and Terrazzo floors meld with the recognizable Soviet style grays and blues and solemnity of the atmosphere. Personal Highlights The Mosque where the oldest Koran is displayed, the Museum of Applied Arts , the old city with its straw and mud walls will enchant you. I recommend that you visit the Historical Museum at the outset to understand the history of the Silk Road which will be very instructive on your journey throughout Uzbekistan.

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For our part, we had a special fondness for strolling through the parks, enjoying the horsedrawn rides, and people watching in Independence Square, and viewing the Spirit of the World Statue. We were tickled by the street called Broadway. And did some damage buying at the great Chorsu market. Although we shopped throughout our trip, I recommend buying at Chorsu for its price and selection and for the fun and variety of its "food court .” It is here you will see the diversity of European, Chinese, Korean, Russian, Turkish, Latvian, US and Uzbek people in every day, yet, traditional dress. You'll also see why the Silk Road is also called the Spice Road. And if, like us, you can catch a Circus, you will experience a treat like no other, designed to appeal to the child in you. The Festival Tranziti was a delightful compendium of expert acts from around the world. The children could ride the animals, bungee cord to the roof on harnesses, and do many uber-fun activities that would make a U.S. Mom faint with fear and probably close down the circus in the U.S. and Canada. Kiss a snake, hug a monkey-no problem at this circus. We loved it.

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Bukhara

Bukhara is The Ageless Traveler™'s dream: a fifth century A.D. city that has evolved on the very same site from its legendary beginnings as part of Sogd, a trade crossroads in ancient times. Center city is a designated World Heritage UNESCO site since 1991. Distinguished by the Bukharan ARK, at its walled center, the governors and their associates functioned thousands of years ago surrounded by caravans. Bukhara has modern suburbs called Rabads, and an inner-city “the shahristan," you feel that Bukhara is a living city with a past of 2500 years. The lure of Bukhara is that within the walled city no modern civilization has intruded, and you walk with the ancients. From the II Century A.D. until the III Century, Bukhara was part of Kangiu. By the IX Century Bukhara was a major cultural center and the heart of multitudes of religions and beliefs. The architecture is predominantly Muslim and is replete with mosques, minarets, madrasahs (schools) that rival ancient and medieval architecture anywhere in the world. The history of Bukhara is the history of the Silk Road. More than 60 caravans could be found at any one time from India, China, Europe and Persia. It was a peaceful place and remains so; enclosed by walls Bukhara is easy to stroll and you will feel the past strolling along with you. Those interested in the logistics of ancient peoples will be fascinated by how trade links developed. Caravans traveling on East to West roads beginning in the capital of ancient China, Changan, found their way to Bukhara after ferrying over the Tyran-Shan to the Fergana Valley, and then from Tashkent to Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khorezm, to finally reach the Caspian and Blacks sea. 13

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It was Marco Polo that called this path the Great Silk Road and was the first European to reach the borders of the Chinese Empire. The Ageless Traveler will see more than ancient buildings; he or she will be immersed in ancient craft, and meet a modern people fiercely reviving and revisiting their traditions and legends. Bukhara is also the city of philosophers and poets, with 140 architectural sites, many for science and learning. For The Ageless Traveler, Bukhara is a city for intense sightseeing. In 1997 it was celebrated internationally for its 2500th anniversary by UNESCO and has been on the list of world heritage sites since 1991. Those interested in Russian history will be fascinated by the national legends and verifiable facts of the interaction between the city and various Russian and Soviet regimes since the 1800s. For example, the Czar was most interested in looting the city for its golden treasures. But, after defeating the Czar, the Communist regime was equally interested in imposing its culture on Bukharin origins. And so we can visit solid Soviet architecture alongside of otherworldly ancient temples. Personal Highlights You will likely start at Lyabi-Hauz a trade square built in 1620 with three monumental buildings. Take pictures with statues of camels and with the Sufi comic sage Nasrudin. By all means before you get into the walled central complex enjoy a carriage ride, and once within its walls indulge in the puppet show and bazaars. Bring home a saffron tea which costs $22 at a local teahouse and 10 times that in the U.S. This is also the place to visit blacksmith shops, weavers and carpet makers for truly fine examples of ancient and modern craft. The nine sided carved wooden book holders, originally intended to display the family Koran, are as complex as a Rubik's cube.

Outside the walls are opportunities for custom-made gold jewelry, clothing and leisurely dining under the ancient sky. 14

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Samarkand

Samarkand , founded 2750 years ago is as old as Rome. It was built between two rivers in the Trans-Oxania in Central Asia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage City because of its well preserved architectural masterpieces and its significance as the capital of ancient empires like Sogdian, Samanid, Temurid . Great names in history such as Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Sultan Sanjar and Amir Temur, to name just a few, have left their mark on the city. Between the VII and VIII Century BC the land of Sogd developed its identity on the hill of Afrasab, which you will visit on your journey back in time. It was part of the Persian Empire until the IV Century BC. It was destroyed by Alexander the Great and then restored as part of the Greco-Bactrin Empire. Leaders of ancient civilizations formed the governments; Hepthalites from the V to VI Centuries, Turkic Khanate from the VI through VII Centuries, and the Chinese from the middle of the VII Century until the Confederation of Principiats headed by Ilshid governed. The Afrosiab Museum of History, located in the ancient city of Afrasiab near the Siab River, has one of the most important multi cultural excavations in the world. It is an ancient fresco of horsemen, boatman and a wedding with Chinese, Turkestan and Chach emissaries in the processional. Personal Highlights The necropolis of GurEmir, built as a home for the Grandson of Amir Temur, allows you to walk freely among the hushed silence of the crypts and monuments observing a complex of grand tombs mosaics and gravestones that are a wonder of the Middle Ages.

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As The Ageless Traveler™, we are intense sightseers, and if you want to absorb the enormity of the offerings of Samarkand you need three days of active sightseeing. At the Shah-i-Zinda a group of mosques on the Afrasiab's southern slope built around the tomb of Kusam ibn Abas (a cousin and companion of Mohammed the prophet) and the governor of Mecca, we met a group of Ageless Travelers visiting Central Asia for two months. The perfectly preserved madrasahs impressed us with the beauty and difficulty of the restoration, as well as the achievements of the ancient scholars who attended in centuries gone by.

Registen Square rivals the Taj Mahal in beauty. It is in the heart of the new city with a complex of magnificent structures and the history so impressive that you can enjoy a Sound and Light show every evening in many languages, to understand the significance of the Silk Road. Samarkand, for the sightseer, is a smorgasbord of ancient complexes most of which typically include a cemetery, a school and a place of worship. It is wonderful also to visit the neighborhood mosques, the Russian Orthodox churches and synagogues. We marveled at the Jewish Museum with its private residential charm designed by the architect E.Nelle for merchants of the Guild of Abram Kalantarov.

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A short 40 km trip from Samarkand brings you to a vast flea market in Urgent at the foot of the Afrasiab mountains , 1000 feet above sea level. Traditional jewelry, metal work and modern dress offerings are a must buy.

The tomb of the Prophet Daniel is another marvel of preservation. The above ground casket is 18 feet in length and is a matter of many legends. The prevailing story is that it was made so big to frighten looters. The site on a hill is stunning and the ability to drink from healing waters available to all free of charge. People of every faith and philosophy walk in silence around the tomb three times and leave their mark with a flag or stone or leaf.

Our final destination was the papermaking mill using an ancient technique brought from China in the VIII Century and revived with the assistance of UNESCO. The paper making begins by manually shredding leaves using a water wheel situated on the banks of the Siab River in the countryside. A Word to The Ageless Traveler™ on accessibility – Samarkand offers larger venues for sightseeing that can sometimes become hectic as you traverse cobblestones and climb ancient steps. Always have water with you. If you have mobility issues please allow us to guide you and provide equipment and a realistic view of what you will be able to see and how best to navigate these iconic venues, www.TheAgelessTraveler.com .

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Khiva

Khiva is a city surrounded by legend. It is located South of the Aral Sea and near the Kyzyl-Kum desert of Central Asia. Some believe that the city was founded by Shem, the son of Noah, of Ark fame, as Shem wandered in the desert alone after the Great Flood. His dream of 300 burning torches was taken by him as an omen to found the city in the shape of a ship in accordance with the placement of the torches. Well water from the Kheyvak Water Well in the inner-city, the Ichan-Kala, is preserved today and it is said to be the well dug by Shem, himself. But, Khiva’s verifiable history also seems like legend, as Alexander the Great and the Arabian Army fought battles at Khorsem of which Khiva was a leading city. Genghis Khan nearly destroyed the city by wiping out dams and causing flooding. Khiva is a UNESCO site and the home of Muslim educational institutions such as Mamun Academy which is over one thousand years old. Under Amir Temur, Khiva became an integral part of the Great Silk Road. The entire city is a museum through which you can walk to see fortresses protected by powerful clay walls and reinforced with semicircular towers. Khiva is the home to significant architecture including palaces, mosques, ancient baths and minarets. Most of these buildings are faced with marble, tiles and carvings by great artists and Masters. Khiva lies along one of the most ancient legs of the Great Silk Road. Merchants traveled from India, Iran and parts of Russia on caravans; and then to China, Mongolia, Alexandria, Cairo and Baghdad, each bringing their own wares, traditions, and dress. They established trading protocols; for example, using silk as the most popular measure of commerce. Silk was the currency for labor as well, and could even be used to pay a fine. It is for this reason that Marco Polo called the caravan routes the Silk Road. These trade paths also brought with them cross-cultural foods, scientific research, art and poetry. 18

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Many buildings in Khiva have been converted into museums, the most unusual being the Zoroastrian museum where you can learn the ancient religion still practiced by those who run the museum today.

You can walk through the centuries, as parts of the Ichan-Kala existed in the V Century and were caravan stops. Visit the throne room, the Harem and the baths to get a true taste of ancient life in this sophisticated surround.

The Ageless Traveler™ who can climb the minaret or other of the buildings, many of which were constructed with steps specifically to get an overview of the city, will be richly rewarded. Personal Highlights The Djuma Mosque will remind the Ageless Traveler™ of the Alhambra. Dating from the late 1700s and constructed with arches and ornamentation it is supported by 25 columns which date back to the X through XVI Century. Of greatest beauty to us was the Pakhlavan Mahmud a place for pilgrimage, replete with the most exquisite tile work. Named after a renowned poet who is dubbed the “Khoresmian Omar Khayyam”, he is responsible for writing over 300 poems with romantic and philosophical content. Several of the facade ornamentations are traces of Rubayats of the poet. An Hungarian Orientalist and researcher, Arminy Vamberi, established Mahmud’s fame in modern times; such is the connection between scholarship from many cultures brought together in one astonishing building.

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Khiva at night brings you to perhaps one of the most romantic places on the planet. The buildings seemed to glow in the twilight. This is a UNESCO tourist attraction and so there is no shortage of places to eat; including many traditional outdoor spaces where you can recline on platforms and eat Plov under the stars.

While most Ageless Travelers will stay within the walls of the city, there is much to explore outside the inner city. Don't limit yourself to the Ichan–Kala if you have the time to wander to the outside city or DishanKala. We were engaged by the contrast between the legends of the Ichan-Kala and the bustle of the outskirts. For example, we had the pleasure of visiting the Science Research Institute and seeing its small but fascinating museum. We were struck by the scientific achievements and the connections between Western and Central Asian scholarship. A personal highlight for us was Palace Nurally. The Ageless Traveler™ will enjoy its European-style architecture combined with Central Asian ornamentation, carved wooden columns and the chandeliers presented by the Russian Czar Nikolay. Because of the treasures of the inner-city it's easy to pass up this area; but I do recommend that you stay within the walls of the Ichan-Kala if you have a short period of time. 20

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Nukus

Perhaps if The Ageless Traveler™ was asked which museums have the largest collection in the world, a museum in a small city in Uzbekistan would not be top of mind. But, it should be. It's the Savitsky Museum in Nukus (officially, The Nukus Museum of Art). Stalin banned artists, dubbed decadent or bourgeois, that did not meet his Social Realist standards and that of his art and culture committee. Many of these artists had trained with Picasso, the surrealists, pointillists and impressionists. Others were cubists and many artists created an original style that might have rocked the art world of Europe and eventually the whole world, if they did not died banned, or banished as unknowns. A few years ago Nukus would have been “Off the Beaten Path“; but today the Savitsky museum is a must see. The museum is under a huge expansion, as 80% of its collection is in storage, and is finally coming up for air. It is the home of the world's second largest collection of Russian avant-garde art in the world (after the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg).

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While these artists were being starved out in Russia, the artist Igor Savitsky realized the worth of these paintings. He scrounged through attics, garrets and cold storages to save and collect, tirelessly from 1957-1966. Many paintings were given to him free of charge or sold underground. He stored them and eventually showed them in Nukus, Uzbekistan in a museum now named for him. Today, the vast collection is augmented with fine local and national art. When you wander through the gallery you have constant déjà vu. “Didn’t I see this at the Met in New York City, the Louvre, at a serious art auction?” No you did not. What you are seeing are the works of artists that influenced and were influenced by the great artistic names you know, but never “made it” because artistic censorship kills.

So vast is the collection that you might miss the museums world class offering of archeological finds, and Uzbekistan folk art. Despite the cultural charms of the Silk Road, The Ageless Traveler™ will miss something special if they miss the Igor Savitsky Museum, also called “The Desert of Forbidden Art.”

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Shakhrisabz

Shakhrisabz shows us a city of archaeological treasures, but also has a very contemporary spirit. To me it was a “Mirage” where I felt I could “observe “ancient scholars sitting cross legged and quietly discussing how to navigate by the stars; or actually attend the wedding of Roxanne and Alexander the great. Shakhrisabz, situated 90 miles south of Samarkand, is 27 centuries old, founded in the same age as the city of Rome (1700 BC.) Given its longevity, its history is rich. In its pre-Silk Road epoch, Alexander the Great determined to conquer the Greeks and use the city to do so. In furtherance of his plan he married Roxanne, daughter of a Silk Road merchant and a Sogdian (the original name of Uzbekistan.) In 1346 Amir Temur was born in the city, which became holy to him as he built his Empire. He truly wanted to be buried there, as were his father, his advisor and his elder children. But, his remains are at Gur Emir in Samarkand. It is important to note that Shakhrisabz is the second capital after Samarkand and the summer residence of the Timurids. Ak-Saray, their palatial summer home, has inscribed upon its walls the rather arrogant but modern sentiment, ”If you're in doubt of our power look at our buildings”. 23

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As with all ancient cities, this one has its legends; but unlike many other ancient venues facts have been chronicled through the centuries.

The summer palace is unrestored, but gives a sense of grandeur that must have stunned friend and foe. At the top of the palace was a fountain constructed from ceramic tubes. There is a grand funeral complex including the tombs of prophets and their descendents, where Amir Temur’s son is buried. You may enter the house of meditation and be surrounded by a hush somehow unaffected by the bustling city without.

Personal Highlight At Shakhrisabz we had a particularly knowledgeable guide who was giddy with glee at the upcoming Jubilee Year. Despite the fact that half the city has been torn up to build magnificent fountains, gardens and public spaces, we didn't mind. In all the excitement of the archaeological work going on, we were fortunate enough to meet French archaeologists painstakingly cataloging and then replacing ancient tiles to create a restored bathhouse. We hope that Shakhrisabz will be a traditional stop for everyone visiting Samarkand. 24

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You can make this journey in an hour and a half car ride through mountains and countryside worth seeing.

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The Festival of Asrlar Sadosi Echos of the Centuries

Do you like to be immersed in the culture of a people? Do you like to watch the strong men lift weights beyond measure? Do you like wrestling at its best (Uzbekistan’s national sport)? If you answered “yes” to any of those questions you are in for a treat at Asrlar Sadosi. Because it’s all here and more. Asrlar Sadosi is a festival of traditional culture and a rare opportunity to glimpse artisans at work, eat traditional foods, enjoy acrobatics, wrestling and folkloric music all topped off by a world-class folk concert. Every spring since 2008 the Fund Forum, the organizing entity behind the Festival, chooses a different site to hold the Festival. The Festival is supported by the UNESCO local office as well. Previous years it was held in Khiva, Bukhara, in the mountains near Tashkent and in Shakhrisabz. This year the venue was the outside city of Navoi, a spectacular region of Uzbekistan known for its petraglyphs and ancient stone formations, as well as its near desert setting. People from over 65 countries attended the event, many of them for its entire three-day span. This year’s festival highlight was a spectacular high fashion show with beautiful models and outfits that dazzle.

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Some of these beautiful dresses can be worn in the US. And I was especially impressed by the men’s outfits. The petraglyph tee shirts are an easy export, and look like they come straight out of Abercrombie and Fitch.

We arrived early in the morning for a tour of the petraglyphs and were propelled into the Bronze Age. Although many of The Ageless Traveler™s have had the experience of visiting caves inhabited by ancient man, I will wager that you have never gotten this close to an authentic rock painting. There is a deep sense of excitement when you recognize the figures and the clear pictorials of hunting, fishing and domestic activities depicted by primitive artists.

Currently, visitors are allowed to touch the petro glyphs with impunity. I was concerned that we would rub away these gems. Our guides told us that because these are carved into stone and not painted, they will endure. I expect that with increased tourism this may change. So, if the thrill of being upfront and personal with a cave artist from the Bronze Age intrigues you go now. It really is an extraordinary experience, walking through the beautiful rock formations, hearing the gurgling streams, and viewing the petraglyphs which are abundant.

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After this a very short ride by van or car takes you to the festival site. The activity tends to appear as a mirage as first you see horsemen, then women in traditional dress, and then tents filled with Silk Road treasures. Craftsmen with ancient tools mingle with fashion models wearing cutting-edge ensembles. It is nearly impossible to take in the entire festival in one day. We enjoyed the culinary contests where traditional foods like Plov, were cooked on the spot. Much like our chili cook offs in the US, or a Food network television show, there were judges and awards given for the master chefs in each category. The centerpiece of the culinary tent was a wooden platform bedecked with pillows and fabrics for reclining at the community table perched atop the platform. I was invited to join and we ate what truly was the best Plov of our trip as we reclined in traditional fashion.

Next we visited the tents of each region of Uzbekistan to see their particular crafts and culture. I was enamored with a sophisticated woven wool scarf created by young artist living in Tashkent.

For my daughter and friend I stayed with the ancient arts and purchased two hand woven purses, and the susanie embroidery so beautiful on pillows. But, my favorite buy was the clay animal whistles so basic that they appeared like a petraglyph come to life. Now a break for a rest and some nuts and fruits and cool water before the highlight of the evening, an all star concert co-mingled with classical and traditional dance and music.

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Uzbekistan: The Silk Road & Beyond

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The Uzbekistan Food Fest

You may have read that Uzbekistan is not the place to go to eat. Don't believe it. Yes, horse meat is on traditional menus, and yes, Plov (pronounced "peelov" and is the root of our word: pilaf) the ubiquitous rice dish is as frequently served as chili in our South West, but Plov can be as delicious as any dish you've tasted when you hit it right.

I recommend going native and eating outside in good weather reclining on wooden loungers filled with pillows and other diners. Yes, there might be feet intertwined with yours, but you get the true meaning of a communal table when you dine in Uzbekistan.

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The Ageless Traveler™

Eat salads adorned in every shade of green and red and orange. Indulge in dried fruits of all ilk, and go nuts over nuts.

Yes , we ate in the markets and accepted offerings of tastes, whether natural honey, yogurt balls or samsa (meat filled dough.) Remember this is not called the Spice Road for nothing. Saffron infused tea, basil, paprika, cinnamon and spices little known in the West are prevailing in the recipes of even the most mundane of restaurants.

Not being a fan of the road most traveled, I urge you to experiment. My favorite dining experience was an off the beaten path outdoor establishment which butchered it's own sheep and specialized in salad and mutton. The waiters washed the concrete platforms with water 31

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The Ageless Traveler™

from the water fall that meandered down the steps on which we ate.

For the less intrepid, you have access to a variety of restaurants in the Caravan Chain. These include Caravan in Tashkent, a traditional fare restaurant, and several sushi/Japanese or Italian themed restaurants that could be located in NYC or Chicago or LA if it were not for the fact that they were in the trendiest parts of Taskkent. The terrific Samarkand Restaurant in guess where, Samarkand, should not be missed with its two level themes or Russian Dacha and Silk Road exotic. Never mind the stuffed bear-the food is very good.

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The Ageless Traveler™

Shopping & Fashion Fest The great designer Karl Lagerfeld said, "Fashion is the only thing that can travel from the old world to the new." And Uzbekistan fashion proves his point. The people wear traditional garb every day based on the ancient silk colors and textures.

Flowing scarfs and over-the-top prints result in to-die-for wearing apparel. Part of the training of young citizens is to give them access to fashion as a business.

Yet, traditional custom made clothing could cost no more than 50 dollars for a couture dress. Street fashion is worth emulating. An Asrala Sadosi highlight is its fashion show where young designers can get discovered.

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The Ageless Traveler™

People Watching Uzbekistan is a country of young faces, many of whom show off the variety of ethnicities and customs that grace the land. Russian fur hatted gentleman mix with Asian women who look like princesses in their Bucharian dresses. Europeans of all ilks and of course Canadians and US citizens form the tableau in any subway station in Tashkent. But, for me the best people watching were the happy kids in the parks built for them, and the rugged faces of the villagers in the country side. See for yourself.

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The Ageless Traveler™

Uzbekistan: The Silk Road & Beyond

The Ageless Traveler™

Create a Joyful Adventure: “Dancing in Chilpiq”

The Ageless Traveler™ can be pretty jaded about travel. We have seen great sights where we enjoyed many seminal experiences. My personal criterion for great travel is: Have I experienced a moment of true JOY during the trip? “Yes.” I have on many occasions. At the opera house in Sydney, swimming in the South China Sea, walking eighteen feet below the ocean’s surface in Aruba, meeting a Chieftain in Borneo who taught me to use a blow dart gun (ok not everyone’s cup of tea), the first time I had tea at Harrods in London, and standing near most any biblical ruin in Israel. Like you, I could go on. In Uzbekistan my moment of joy arrived in Chilpiq. Let me explain. I was on my way to Bukhara by car from Urgench, where I stayed when exploring Khiva. That road trip takes you through the Red Sands of a desert inhabited by camels, wild horses and the 37

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occasional villager. It is replete with fortresses and castles built in the IV to VII Century BC. You can stay at a yurt overnight, and have the total desert experience.

I chose to simply ride through. But the desert did not allow that. A fortress called to me to climb to its top. I did so without hesitation, leaving the car in the middle of no-where.

At the top of the fortress I discovered a Zoroastrian funereal site for cremation, and a both thrilling and terrifying aerial view of the surrounding desert.

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The Ageless Traveler™

When I climbed down a man appeared from seemingly out of the Red Clay itself to play a Balalaika. I was compelled to dance, and danced with joy.

Please visit us www.TheAgelessTraveler.com and tell us about your moments of joy in travel. 39

Uzbekistan: The Silk Road & Beyond

The Ageless Traveler™

The Ageless Traveler™ Health Hints and Tips A central mission of The Ageless Traveler™ is to guide you in having a safe, healthy and fit trip. Uzbekistan, because of its exotic flavor, may seem a tough trip health-wise, but it is not; if you follow the basic rules of safe travel for The Ageless Traveler™. Always check whether special vaccinations or shots are recommended. You can do this on the Centers for Desease Control site, www.cdc.gov. We found none and took no additional shots. We are always up to date on our tetanus shots. Don't drink the water except if bottled. We adhered to that even for brushing our teeth, and even when drinking in hotels and restaurants. Bottled water is plentiful and cheap. Watch out for the ubiquitous yogurt balls. They are delicious, but made by hand and in some cases hand sanitation is not enforced. Watch out for the sun, it's tricky. Always wear suntan lotion even in the cities. Remember, as I failed to do, that if you take certain medicines such as doxycycline the sun can cause a rash on hands, face and feet. So cover up and stay hydrated. You will see many locals using an umbrella against the hot sun. It's a good idea. As for food safety, we ate in the markets and in local restaurants all over the country with no stomach issues, whatsoever. However, we seem to be a marvel to those who were touched by stomach ills when eating horse meat, or Plov, in the markets. For those with touchy stomachs, avoid the tempting market food and stay with the restaurant and hotel fair. Bring Imodium; although I never used it. As for personal safety, as in any big city be alert and aware. Your tour guide will tell you whether there are pickpockets in the marketplace. If you are an independent traveler a simple money belt or fanny pack and heightened awareness will do. Perhaps the biggest issue is that the currency, called "som," comes only in small paper currency denominations, so that you might carry a thick wad of cash to buy an inexpensive meal or souvenir. In Uzbekistan cash is the preferable mode of payment, with about 30% of transactions made by bank card. Nevertheless, you may find yourself with a satchel full of cash and lots of rubber bands to hold everything together. So don't be rushed when you 40

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pay, and count your money slowly. The locals are quick as a cash register in manually counting out money; it takes years of practice. Accessibility and mobility is a problem for those with walkers and to some degree those in wheelchairs. As tourism develops I expect that they will install more ramps, elevators and accommodations that are barrier free. Right now, if you have mobility issues just contact us at The Ageless Traveler™, www.TheAgelessTraveler.com and we will provide you with access to the right mobility equipment for your trip, make sure it is properly planned as we have eyes on the ground in Uzbekistan. With our travel providers we can make sure that you don't end up in a hotel with a broken elevator, or left out when your group is touring ancient sites and UNESCO venues.

Remember that you are visiting a Muslim country and of course it goes without saying that you will respect traditions and practices. But you will not find intimidation, or unwelcome attitudes. We freely explained to our guides and new friends that we were Jewish and they made every effort to bring us to sites that they thought would be of great interest to us and everyone had great respect for our beliefs and values. You need not have any concern or paranoia in walking in crowds in your Western dress, women need not cover their heads -just put on your sneakers and go, go, go.

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Uzbekistan: The Silk Road & Beyond

Uzbekistan The Silk Road & Beyond and Asrlar Sadosi The Ageless Traveler™ www.TheAgelessTraveler.com 6 Cedar Ridge Rd. Lebanon, NJ 08833 [email protected]

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The Ageless Traveler™