Churches in

Sacred Splendours

Churches in

Québec Sacred Splendours

Index The Sacred at the Heart of Daily Life The ways of Faith Montréal Around Montréal The King’s Highway Québec City Unique Achitecture The Navigator’s Route Waysides Crosses Into the Kingdom of the Saguenay

The Sacred

at the Heart of Daily Life Today, Quebeckers’ history and culture can be read in their splendid religious heritage. Naves with warm-hued wood panelling, pipe organs, golden statuary, carved

From solemn, richly decorated basilicas to movingly simple

pulpits and reredos, silver and gold plate—all are marked

country churches and famous sanctuaries with lovely

with the stamp of a religious passion that rings true and

stained-glass windows… For more than 300 years, Québec

clear.

has paid tribute to its Christian values and the superb «#»

talents of its craftspeople through its many places of

With its dual Catholic and Protestant ancestry, Québec

worship.

boasts an exceptional panorama of religious art and architecture dating from the 18th to the 20th centuries,

One of the key missions of the first explorers and

leading visitors on a fascinating cultural and spiritual

colonists in New France was to spread the Catholic faith

voyage of discovery.

throughout America—as symbolized by the cross that Jacques Cartier raised in Gaspé in 1534. After the territory was ceded to the British crown in 1763, the Catholic Church played a crucial role in shaping this French-speaking community.

Cover page: Inside view of Notre-Dame Basilica, Montréal, and detail of the high altar Right: Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Chapel, Montréal

The Ways

of Faith

In these pages, you will discover churches and other places of worship that have been the cornerstones of the spiritual faith of generations of Quebeckers and the most

Explore the wide St. Lawrence Valley between Montréal and

tangible evidence of their creative talents.

Québec City, and even beyond, and discover its hidden treasures, some of them dating back to the earliest days of

Our religious heritage is an integral part of the urban and

the colony.

rural landscape throughout Québec.That steeple you spot 4

as you drive along will guide you to the next town or village, which you’re apt to find is named after a saint! In fact, because of their French and Anglo-Saxon roots, some villages like Kinnear’s Mills ❂ have as many as four different churches of different denominations.

The churches listed here are usually open in summer from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and often in the off-season as well (always check schedules).

❂

Buildings and sites designated as historic monuments by the ministère de la Culture et des Communications du Québec This symbol indicates where to find the buildings and sites on the maps on pages 18 and 19.

Churches at Kinnear’s Mills

M o n t r é a l Churches and religion have been a part of Montréal right from the start. The city was founded in 1642 as a mission to convert the Amerindians. Even today, the cross atop Mont Royal dominates the cityscape. Montréal boasts a multitude of churches of different denominations and styles—Mark Twain, when he visited the city, commented that it was the first time he had ever been in a city “where you couldn’t throw a brick without breaking a church window!”

1

NOTRE-DAME BASILICA 110 rue Notre-Dame Ouest

Built between 1823 and 1829, this vast Gothic Revival church is renowned for its polychrome interior and rich ornamentation. Its treasures include its organ (1891), one of the largest in North America, and its remarkably carved high altar and pulpit. Don’t miss the Sacred Heart Chapel, with its linden woodwork and bronze reredos. Many concerts and organ recitals are held at the Basilica, and every summer for the past 20 years it has hosted a Mozart festival jointly with the Montreal Symphony Orchestra.

2

NOTRE-DAME-DE-B ONSECOURS C HAPEL❂ 400 rue Saint-Paul Est

This elegant chapel, which has been largely rebuilt since it was founded in the mid-17th century, is one of the landmark sites in Old Montréal. A small lookout at the rear of the chapel offers a lovely view of the Old Port. A museum dedicated to Marguerite Bourgeoys, one of the founders of Montréal, displays the finds from archaeological digs conducted on the site in recent years. Notre-Dame Basilica, Montréal

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3

St. Patrick’s Basilica, Montréal

MARY QUEEN OF THE WORLD BASILICA-CATHEDRAL Boulevard René-Lévesque Ouest (corner Mansfield)

Built in the late 19th century, this cathedral is a scale replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Under its dome is a copy of Bernini’s baldachin. There are many paintings illustrating scenes from Montréal’s history and the mortuary chapel is the final resting place of the city’s bishops.

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CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL ❂ 635 rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest

Completed in 1859, Montréal’s Anglican cathedral is strategically located downtown. Among the most noteworthy features of this venerable edifice are its high altar and retable, along with an 18th-century copy of da Vinci’s The Last Supper, in the chancel.

5

ST. PATRICK’S BASILICA ❂ 460 boulevard René-Lévesque Ouest

The first Anglophone Catholic church in Montréal (1847), St. Patrick’s is elaborately decorated in the Gothic style. It boasts lovely paintings, a carved pulpit and an impressive sanctuary lamp. The interior is majestic and serene, with admirable woodwork and stained-glass windows. One of the bells, known as Charlotte, was cast in 1774.

6

ST. JAMES U NITED C HURCH ❂ 463 rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest

When it opened in 1889, St. James was the largest Methodist church in Canada. This grand red sandstone building is reminiscent of Gothic cathedrals in France, and can be admired from the sidestreets nearby. A few lovely stained-glass windows light up the restrained interior.

8

SAINT-PIERRE-APÔTRE CHURCH ❂ 1201 rue de la Visitation

A Gothic Revival church (1853) designed by Victor Bourgeau, on a site classified as a historic monument, including the sacristy, presbytery (1856), choir school (1868) and school. The church boasts a remarkable unity of style and its choir is adorned with tall stained-glass windows and rich woodwork.

9 St. Joseph’s Oratory, Montréal 7

500 avenue du Mont-Royal Est

ST. JOSEPH’S ORATORY 3800 chemin Queen Mary

The Oratory, built on the slope of Mont Royal and opened in 1955, owes its existence to Brother André, whose remains are enshrined in the votive chapel. The austere nave of this impressive basilica is one of the largest in Québec. Visitors can admire its stained-glass windows, the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament and the Way of the Cross outdoors. Crowds of pilgrims flock to the Oratory to pay tribute to St. Joseph, especially on March 19, his feast day. Summertime organ recitals and carillon concerts. Christmastime exhibition of nativity scenes from around the world. Nearby, history buffs will enjoy a guided tour of the 150-year-old Notre-Damedes-Neiges and Mount Royal cemeteries.

SANCTUAIRE DU SAINT-SACREMENT ❂

The three-storey chapel in this monumental edifice is renowned for its lovely railings, friezes, arches and painted vaults. All of the iconography relates to the theme of the Eucharist.

10

C HURCH

OF THE

VISITATION ❂

1847 boulevard Gouin Est

Built in 1752 on the banks of the Rivière des Prairies, in the northern part of the city, this is the only remaining church from the French Régime on the Island of Montréal. Its richly decorated interior has changed very little since the early 19th century. The tabernacle and the polychrome portals leading to the sacristy, carved in Louis XV style, are some of the most spectacular features of this historic monument.

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In Longueuil, across from the Port of Montréal, the impressive ST. ANTHONY 11 , dating from OF PADUA C HURCH ❂ the late 19th century, has a manysided central dome.

Around Montréal You don’t have to venture far from the city to enjoy the calm and tranquillity of houses of worship set in the heart of nature.

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The KATERI-TEKAKWITHA SANCTUARY 12 is in the St. Francis Xavier Church (1845), set alongside the St. Lawrence River in the Mohawk community of Kahnawake. It celebrates the memory of this young Amerindian woman who was converted to Christianity in the early days of the colony and was the first Native person to be beatified (April 17 is her feast day). Set in the side of the Montagne de Rigaud is the OUR LADY OF LOURDES SANCTUARY 13 , dating from the 1870s. This popular pilgrimage site somewhat resembles the site of the Massabielle grotto in Lourdes.

Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey

Cloister of Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey

Some of the most important events in the religious and political history of Québec have occurred in Oka and Saint-Eustache, on the north shore of Lac des Deux-Montagnes, in the Lower Laurentians. The C ISTERCIAN ABBEY OF OKA 14 , founded by French monks in the late 19th century, is nestled in the woods overlooking the lake. The H ILLSIDE STATIONS OF THE C ROSS ❂ 15 (1740-1742), with its seven stone wayside shrines, is the oldest in North America. A few kilometres farther east, the SAINT-EUSTACHE CHURCH ❂ 16 witnessed one of the major battles in the 1837 Rebellion: there, on December 19, the Patriots were besieged by British soldiers. Together, the church, former convent and presbytery form a harmonious ensemble.

Hillside Stations of the Cross, Oka

East of Montréal, the Sherbrooke region is dotted with small churches built by the descendants of the Loyalists who settled the region starting in the late 18th century. Around the Cookshire area, church lovers will enjoy taking the HAUT-SAINT-FRANÇOIS CHURCHES 17 . Bishop’s University HISTORICAL TOUR in Lennoxville has a lovely Gothic Revival chapel, ST. MARK’S ❂ 18 , consecrated in 1857. Starting in 1912, Benedictine monks from France built a monastery overlooking Lake Memphremagog. The modern SAINT-B ENOÎT- DU -L AC A BBEY 19 , designed by Dom Bellot, pays tribute to the harmony of natural geometric forms and makes splendid use of multicoloured bricks. Services in Gregorian chant.

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10

Joliette Art Museum

Notre-Dame-du-Cap Sanctuary, Cap-de-la-Madeleine

T h e

K i n g ’ s

H i g h w a y

This route, along with the St. Lawrence River, was the main artery between Montréal and Québec City for years, dating back to the days of the French Régime.

As you travel along the North Shore of the St. Lawrence, halfway between Montréal and Trois-Rivières, you will come to Berthierville, the jumping-off point for a tour of the Lac Saint-Pierre islands. The tiny CUTHBERT CHAPEL ❂ 20 (1786), today used for exhibitions, is said to be the oldest Protestant house of worship in Québec. Some 20 kilometres (14 miles) farther along, Joliette is home to the Festival de Lanaudière every summer. Recitals and concerts are held in various churches throughout the region, including the CHURCH OF ST. PAUL ❂ 21 (1804), with its interesting carved pews. The city also boasts a fascinating ART MUSEUM 22 , with magnificent collections of religious art. The CATHEDRAL OF THE ASSUMPTION 23 in Trois-Rivières, renowned for its stained-glass windows, dominates the old quarter of this city founded in 1634. Nearby you can visit the small, 200-year-old ST. JAMES PROTESTANT 24 . CEMETERY ❂ Across from Trois-Rivières, on the South Shore of the St. Lawrence, Nicolet beckons visitors to its M USÉE 25 , a museum whose DES RELIGIONS exhibitions focus on the major religious traditions.

26

NOTRE-DAME-DU-CAP SANCTUARY 626 rue Notre-Dame-du-Cap Cap-de-la-Madeleine

The largest sanctuary to the Virgin Mary in North America was officially opened in 1964, but its origins date back to the mid-17th century. With magnificent stained-glass windows, a 75-stop pipe organ and an enormous park overlooking the St. Lawrence River, this is a supremely peaceful and contemplative site. The Feast of the Assumption is celebrated on August 15. Sunday concerts in summer.

27

TREASURES

OF

PORTNEUF

Continuing along the North Shore toward Québec City, you will arrive in the Portneuf region, where you can take a tour of four superb churches: SAINT-C HARLES-B ORROMÉE ❂ in Grondines, SAINT-J OSEPH ❂ in Deschambault, SAINTE -FAMILLE ❂ in Cap-Santé and SAINT-FRANÇOISDE-SALES in Neuville (sanctuary classified as a historic monument).

11

Sainte Anne-de-Beaupré Basilica

Q u é b e c

C i t y

This walled city, named by UNESCO as a world heritage site, was the seat of the first episcopate in New France. There are innumerable buildings and monuments testifying to the city’s glorious past. 28

NOTRE-DAME-DESVICTOIRES C HURCH ❂ 32 rue Sous-le-Fort

12

The Virgin has been watching over Place-Royale for more than 300 years. This church, which commemorates the French victories over the British in 1690 and 1711, still has a number of lovely 18th- and 19th-century paintings. Some of the old works that visitors can admire include the tabernacle in the Sainte-Geneviève chapel (1724-1730) and a 17th-century model of the ship Le Brézé, offered as an ex voto.

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30

HOLY TRINITY C HURCH 31 rue des Jardins

Built in 1804, modelled after St. Martinin-the-Fields, in London, and still set behind a screen of trees, this church was the first Anglican cathedral built outside the British Isles. Some of its furnishings include the royal pew, the bishop’s chair and the box pews made of oak from the Windsor royal forest. A number of the stained-glass windows date from the 19th century and the eight-bell carillon is said to be the oldest in Canada.

NOTRE-DAME-DE-QUÉBEC BASILICA-CATHEDRAL ❂ 20 rue de Buade

This opulent building in the heart of the fortifications has retained a remarkable unity of style over the centuries. The baldachin and the carved canopy (late 18th century) over the bishop’s throne glow with golden splendour. The crypt houses the remains of the bishops of Québec City and of four governors of New France. Sound and light show in summer. Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church, Québec City

Ciborium (circa 1804), Holy Trinity Church, Québec City

Within the walls are two other reform churches: the C HALMERS-WESLEY U NITED C HURCH 31 (1853), with lovely stained glass and renowned acoustics, and ST. ANDREW’S PRESBYTERIAN C HURCH 32 (1810), which serves the oldest congregation of Scottish descent in Canada and whose pews are arranged in a circular arc before the altar set in the centre of the nave. Outside the walls, ST. MATTHEW’S CEMETERY ❂ 33 , behind the former church ❂ of the same name (today a public library), is one of the oldest burial grounds (1771-1860) in the whole province. Three religious congregations have small museums in the old quarter of Québec City. The U RSULINES MUSEUM 34 displays a variety of rich collections dating back to the 17th century, including works of art, Native handicrafts, decorative arts and old liturgical embroideries. The AUGUSTINES MUSEUM 35 presents the art and ethnological collections amassed by the Augustine order since the earliest days of the colony, while the B ON-PASTEUR MUSEUM 36 recounts Québec’s religious history since 1850.

The Beaupré Coast As you continue past Québec City, the road to Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré leads along the Beaupré Coast, a tranquil rural region dotted with lovely old homes. It also offers tantalizing vistas of the pastoral Île d’Orléans.

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SAINTE ANNE-DE-B EAUPRÉ BASILICA 10018 avenue Royale Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré

Over 1.5 million visitors and pilgrims come each year to express their devotion to the mother of the Virgin Mary, to whom this site has been consecrated since the mid-17th century. The mosaics in the vault, lit up by some 240 stainedglass windows, portray the major episodes in the life of Saint Anne. Commemorative chapel and chapel of the Scala Santa, Way of the Cross outdoors. The Feast Day of Saint Anne is celebrated on July 26.

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Unique

Architecture

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C HURCHES

ON

ÎLE D’ORLÉANS

Of the six parishes that make up the island, three have admirable churches, all of them dating from the French Régime and classified as historic monuments: SAINT-P IERRE ❂ (1717), the oldest church on the island, SAINTE-FAMILLE ❂ (1747) and SAINT-JEAN ❂ (1737). There are also a number of wayside crosses and processional chapels.

Sainte-Famille Church, Île d’Orléans

While most churches in Québec are built of stone, wood is widely used inside, from parquet flooring to railings, partitions, panelling, pillars and columns, not to mention the carved woodwork, all of which give these places of worship a special warmth and intimacy.

Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Church, L’Islet-sur-Mer

T h e N a v i g a t o r s ’

R o u t e

This route hugs the shores of the mighty St. Lawrence River, which led the first European explorers from the Gulf all the way to what would become Québec City.

Archangel playing the trumpet, by Louis Jobin, Saint-Pascal Church

The Chaudière-Appalaches region, on the South Shore of the St. Lawrence, across from the Québec City region, has some pleasant surprises in store for visitors who continue downriver beyond Québec City: The N OTREDAME-DE-BONSECOURS CHURCH ❂ 39 in L’Islet-sur-Mer has a lovely choir (18th-century reredos, tabernacle and painting), and in the SAINT-J EAN BAPTISTE C HURCH ❂ 40 in Saint-JeanPort-Joli, under its ornate vault, visitors can admire the seigneurial pew and various old and modern works, including carvings by Médard Bourgault.

Near Kamouraska in the Bas-SaintLaurent region, the church of SAINTPASCAL 41 is famous for the four huge archangels carved by Louis Jobin, and for the glorious resonance of its organ. The oldest church (1811) in the region is in SAINT-ANDRÉ 42 ; its outside walls are parged as they were when it was first built. Few changes have been made to SAINT- GEORGES CHURCH ❂ 43 in Cacouna since the mid-19th century (100-year-old organ, crystal lamps). The five steeples and towers that greet visitors as they approach Trois-Pistoles draw them toward N OTRE-DAME44 DES-N EIGES , which has dominated the riverside landscape for over 100 years. Continuing on, 15 km (9 miles) east of Rimouski, the church in SAINTELUCE ❂ 45 rises majestically beside the St. Lawrence; it boasts two splendid stained-glass windows with scenes from Canadian history.

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Wayside

Crosses

Of the approximately 2800 wayside and Calvary crosses throughout Québec, a few are of great historic and artistic significance. They are found primarily in the Mauricie, Chaudière-Appalaches and Montérégie regions, and especially along the North and South Shores of the St. Lawrence River between Trois-Rivières and Québec City.

Calvary crosses by Louis Jobin (1918), Ermitage Saint-Antoine, Lac-Bouchette

Indian Chapel, Tadoussac

Q.

@.

Into the Kingdom of the Saguenay The Trois-Pistoles/Les Escoumins ferry will take you to the North Shore and, where the St. Lawrence and Saguenay rivers join, the tiny I NDIAN C HAPEL ❂ 46 in Tadoussac. Said to be the oldest log building in North America, it was built in 1747 at what was a major trading site with the Amerindians.

At the gateway to the Parc du Saguenay, R IVIÈRE -É TERNITÉ 47 organizes a fabulous exhibition of nativity scenes from different countries every winter. A little farther west, near Lac Saint-Jean, the E RMITAGE SAINT-ANTOINE 48 in Lac-Bouchette is a popular pilgrimage site in especially serene natural surroundings (its St. Anthony of Padua Chapel ❂, Stations of the Cross and Calvary cross are all worth a visit).

Forinformationand reservations: www.bonjourquebec.com 1 877 BONJOUR (1 877 266-5687)

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Hillside Stations of the Cross

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Saint-Eustache Church

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Haut-Saint-François churches historical tour

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Christ Church Cathedral

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St. Mark’s Chapel

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St. Patrick’s Basilica

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Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey

St. James United Church

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Cuthbert Chapel

St. Joseph’s Oratory

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Church of St. Paul

Saint-Pierre-Apôtre Church

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Joliette Art Museum

Sanctuaire du Saint-Sacrement

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Cathedral of the Assumption

Church of the Visitation

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St. James Protestant Cemetery

St. Anthony of Padua Church

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Musée des religions

Kateri-Tekakwitha Sanctuary

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Notre-Dame-du-Cap Sanctuary

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Mary Queen of the World Basilica-Cathedral

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Treasures of Portneuf

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Augustines Museum

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Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Church

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Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church

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Bon-Pasteur Museum

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Sainte-Luce Church

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Notre-Dame-de-Québec Basilica-Cathedral

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Sainte Anne-de-Beaupré Basilica

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Indian Chapel

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Churches on Île d’Orléans

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Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Church

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Chalmers-Wesley United Church

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Saint-Jean-Baptiste Church

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St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

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Saint-Pascal Church

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St. Matthew’s Cemetery

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Saint-André Church

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Nativity scenes, Rivière-Éternité

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Holy Trinity Church

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Rimouski

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Roberval

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For more information, call (514) 873-2015 or 1 877 BONJOUR (1 877 266-5687), operator 820 (toll free from Québec, elsewhere in Canada and the United States)

or consult our Web site:

www.bonjourquebec.com/churches Published by Tourisme Québec Product Manager: Suzanne Watson Research: Leonora Moura, Lyne Chouinard Texts: Denys Lessard Translation: Pamela Ireland, Terry Knowles Co-ordination: Louise Mondoux, Christine Plamondon Graphic Design: Communications Daz Printing: Groupe Litho Acme Photos: Robin Edgar, Jean-Pierre Huard, Perry Mastrovito, Réflexion Photothèque, Heiko Wittenborn © Tourisme Québec Legal deposit– Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, 2000 ISBN 2-550-35956-9 Churches in Québec is the third in a series of thematic brochures that already includes Gardens in Québec and The Aboriginal Way.

Printed in Québec, Canada

The information in this brochure was up to date at the time of printing. Tourisme Québec will not be held responsible for any possible errors or omissions.