XANTHAN GUM IN COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES Xanthan gum is an anionic, high molecular weight polysaccharide, which is used as a stabilizer and viscosity modifier in aqueous based systems. Xanthan gum solutions are pseudoplastic, i.e. they show shear thinning flow behavior. This pseudoplasticity imparts a smooth texture to the final product and provides a pleasant application. Xanthan gum is soluble in cold and hot water and shows a high degree of viscosity even in low concentrations. The high viscosity of xanthan gum at low shear rates effectively stabilizes creams and lotions which are primarily oil-in-water emulsions. Xanthan gum keeps emulsions stable over a broad temperature and pH-range. It also assures lotion flowability even upon ageing. Furthermore xanthan gum stabilizes the oil phase of creams and lotions and delivers the active ingredients to the skin in a uniform manner. With its high viscosity at rest xanthan gum effectively suspends insoluble ingredients in cosmetics. Due to the shear thinning flow behavior of xanthan gum highly pigmented products like liquid make-up can be spread easily and uniformly. Xanthan gum provides effective stabilization and suspension to hair care products and enhances the lathering quality of shampoos. Xanthan gum is a natural product which is non-toxic and non-irritating. It can be used in combination with other thickeners and stabilizers to improve texture, flow behavior, stability and appearance. All these properties make xanthan gum a very effective thickening and stabilizing agent for cosmetics and toiletries.

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XG_A3_06_EN

SKIN REGENERATION CREAM

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum 1 Veegum Propylene glycol

68.5 0.5 1.0 3.0

B

Brij 72 15 Brij 721 16 17 Cetiol V Olive oil Uninox A-287 18 Uniphen P-23 19 Cetyl alcohol Amerchol CAB 20 Amerchol L 101 21

3.0 2.0 8.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 1.0 3.0 2.0

C

Unitrienol T-27 22 Preservative and fragrance

3.0 q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Blend xanthan gum, Veegum and propylene glycol. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Heat to 70°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 70°C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 27°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Smooth cream

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XG_A3_06_EN

COLLAGEN LOTION

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum Veegum 1 Propylene glycol

59.45 0.50 1.00 3.80

B

Arlachel 989 23 Artacel 481 24 25 Myritol 318 Mineral oil

3.30 2.70 7.00 17.00

C

Collagen Allantoin Preservative and fragrance

5.00 0.25 q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Blend Xanthan gum, Veegum and propylene glycol. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Heat to 75 – 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 75 – 80 °C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 27°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Pourable lotion

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XG_A3_06_EN

FACIAL CREAM FOR OILY SKIN

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum Mineral oil Glucam E-20 6

85.2 0.2 6.0 1.0

B

Cutina GMS7 Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol

2.8 2.0 1.8

C

Triethanolamine Preservative and fragrance

1.0 q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Blend Xanthan gum with mineral oil. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Add other part A ingredients and heat to 75 – 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 75 – 80°C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 50°C, then add triethanolamine. Continue mixing until cooled to 27°C, then add fragrance and preservative.

Consistency: Smooth cream

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XG_A3_06_EN

MOISTURIZING CREAM

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum Propylene glycol

68.77 0.10 3.00

B

Mineral oil Safflower oil Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol Polawax 8 Lanolin Dow Corning 200 fluid 9 Wickenol 163 10 Arlacel 165 11 Arlacel 60 12 Methocel E4MQ 13 Vitamin E oil

5.00 3.00 3.50 1.00 2.00 0.50 0.50 1.00 5.00 1.50 0.10 0.01

C

Ajidew N-50 14 Collagen Elastin Preservative and fragrance

5.00 0.01 0.01 q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Blend Xanthan gum with propylene glycol. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Heat to 75 – 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 75 – 80°C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 40 – 45°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Smooth cream

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XG_A3_06_EN

HAND AND BODY LOTION

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum Tween 20 Glycerol

74.67 0.30 2.00 3.00

B

Mineral oil Saflor oil Sesame oil Arlacel 165 11 12 Arlacel 60 Cetyl alcohol Amerchol L-101 21 Abil 350 32 Vitamin-E oil Stearic acid

1.00 4.00 4.00 3.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 0.50 0.01 1.50

C

Collagen Elastin Preservative and fragrance

0.01 0.01 q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Blend Xanthan gum with Tween 20 and glycerol. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Heat to 75 – 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 75 – 80°C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 27°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Pourable lotion

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XG_A3_06_EN

BABY CREAM

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Glucam E-20 6 38 Glucamate SSE-20 Xanthan gum Veegum 1

80.6 5.0 1.0 0.3 0.3

B

Vaseline Cetyl alcohol Lanolin 34 Glucate SS

7.0 3.0 2.0 0.8

C

Preservative and fragrance

q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Blend xanthan gum and Veegum. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Add all other part A ingredients and heat up to 75 – 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 75 – 80°C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 27°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Smooth cream

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XG_A3_06_EN

LOTION FOR DRY SKIN

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Glycerol Xanthan gum 1 Veegum, high viscosity

73.0 4.0 0.5 0.5

B

Acetulan 2 Finsolv TN 3 4 Fitoderm Cocoa butter Vaseline Arlacel 165 11

4.0 4.0 3.0 4.0 2.0 5.0

C

Preservative and fragrance

q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Blend xanthan gum and Veegum. Slowly add to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Add all other part A ingredients and heat up to 65 – 70°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 65 – 70°C. Mix until homogeneous. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 30°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Pourable lotion

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XG_A3_06_EN

PEELABLE LIQUID FACE MASK

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum Polyvinyl alcohol Propylene glycol

59.5 0.5 10.0 7.0

B

Alcohol, 96% Ameroxol DE-20 33

20.0 3.0

C

Color Preservative and fragrance

q.s q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Slowly add xanthan gum to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Add all other part A ingredients and heat up to 70 – 75°C. Continue mixing until cooled to 40°C. Blend part B ingredients. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Fluid lotion

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XG_A3_06_EN

LIQUID MAKE-UP

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum Propylene glycol 43 Dye pigments

61.2 0.3 4.0 6.0

B

Dragorin 100 s.e. 28 Cetyl alcohol Dragophos S 29 Dragorin GMS 30 Almond oil, sweet Apricot core oil Dragoxat EH 31 Abil 350 32

4.0 2.0 2.5 2.5 7.0 4.5 5.5 0.5

C

Preservative and fragrance

q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Slowly add xanthan gum to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Add all other part A ingredients and mix until homogeneous. Heat up to 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 80°C. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 50°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture.

Consistency: Smooth cream

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XG_A3_06_EN

SUNSCREEN LOTION

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum

70.7 0.3

B

Parsol MCX 38 Glucamate SSE-20 Lanolin 26 Glucam P-10

5.0 2.5 2.0 2.0

C

Coconut oil Isopropyl Myristate 42 Glucate SS 34 Cutina GMS7 Cetyl alcohol Acetulan 2

5.0 4.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 2.0

D

Preservative and fragrance

q.s

27

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Slowly add xanthan gum to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Add the blend of part B ingredients and heat to 70 – 75°C. Blend part C ingredients and heat to 70 – 75°C. Add C to B and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 30°C. Add part D ingredients to B/C mixture.

Consistency: Pourable lotion

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XG_A3_06_EN

LIQUID SOAP

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum 35 Texapon Z 36 Texapon A

65.9 0.2 5.0 2.0

B

Witconate AOS 39 Comperlan LD 37 Dehyton K Propylene glycol

40

15.0 6.0 3.0 2.5

C

Salt Citric acid

0.4 q.s

D

Color Preservative and fragrance

q.s q.s

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Slowly add xanthan gum to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Add remaining part A ingredients and mix until homogeneous. Heat up to 70°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 70°C. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Add salt and adjust the pH value with Citric acid to pH 5.5. Continue mixing until cooled to 40°C. Add part D ingredients to A/B/C mixture.

Consistency: Liquid lotion

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XG_A3_06_EN

MOUSSE SHAMPOO

Ingredients

% weight

A

Water (deionized) Xanthan gum

63.2 0.2

B

Texapon A 35 Texapon Z Comperlan LD 39 Comperlan COD 41 5 Conditioner P7 37 Dehyton K Cutina GMS 7 Tween 20 Stearic acid

9.2 9.2 4.6 2.8 2.0 1.4 1.4 0.5 0.5

C

Color Preservative and fragrance

q.s q.s

D

Propellant

5.0

36

Preparation:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Slowly add xanthan gum to water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth. Heat up to 80°C. Blend part B ingredients and heat to 80°C. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Continue mixing until cooled to 40°C. Add part C ingredients to A/B mixture. Add propellant.

Consistency: Foamy shampoo

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XG_A3_06_EN

SUPPLIERS OF RAW MATERIALS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43.

Veegum (magnesium aluminum silicate) C.H. Erbslöh, Hamburg, Germany Acetulan (cetylacetate (and) acetylated lanolin alcohol) Nordmann, Rassmann &Co., Hamburg, Germany Finsolv TN (C12-C15 alcohol benzoate) Witco S.A, Paris, France Fitoderm (HQ squalane) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Conditioner P7, Sigma Prodotti Chimici, Bergamo, Italy Glucam E-20 (methyl gluceth-20) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Cutina GMS (glyceryl stearate) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Polawax (proprietary emulsifying wax) Croda GmbH, Nettetal, Germany Dow Corning 200 fluid (dimethicone) Dow Corning Europe, Brussels, Belgium Wickenol 163 (porosity ester) Rahn & Co, Zürich, Switzerland Arlacel 165 (glycerylmonostearate (and) glyceryldistearate (and) polyoxyethylen stearate) ICI Speciality Chemicals, Essen, Germany Arlacel 60 (sorbitan monostearate) ICI Speciality Chemicals, Essen, Germany Methocel E4MQ (hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose) Dow Chemical Europe, CH Ajidew N-50 (5-pyrrolidon) Ajinomoto GmbH, Hamburg, Germany Brij 72 (polyoxyethylen-(2)-stearyl alcohol) ICI Speciality Chemicals, Essen, Germany Brij 721 (polyoxyethylen-(21)-stearyl alcohol) ICI Speciality Chemicals, Essen, Germany Cetiol V (decyl oleate) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Uninox A-287 (isopropyl myristate (and) wheat germ oil (and) BHT) Induchem AG, Dübendorf, Switzerland Uniphen P-23 (phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) butylparaben) Induchem AG, Dübendorf, Switzerland Amerchol CAB (petrolatum (and) lanolin alcohol) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Amerchol L 101 (mineral oil (and) lanolin alcohol) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Unitrienol T-27 (farnesyl acetate (and) farnesol (and) panthenyl triacetate) Induchem AG, Dübendorf, Switzerland Arlacel 989 (polyoxyethylen fatty acid ester) ICI Speciality Chemicals, Essen, Germany Arlachel 481 (glycerol sorbitol oleo stearate) ICI Speciality Chemicals, Essen, Germany Myritol 318 (caprylic (and) captric triglyceride) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Glucam P-10 (methyl glucose ether) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Parsol MCX (octyl methoxycinnamate) Givaudan, Vernier-Geniva, Switzerland Dragorin 100 s.e. (glycerylmonostearate (and) polyoxyethylenstearate) Dragoco Gerberding & Co, Holzminden, Germany Dragophos S (hydroxlalcylether (and) diethanolaminosalt of hydroxyalcylphosphorester) Dragoco Gerberding & Co, Holzminden, Germany Dragorin GMS (glycerylmonostearate (and) glyceryldistearate) Dragoco Gerberding & Co, Holzminden, FRG Dragoxat EH (2-ethylenhexyl-2-ethylenhexanate) Dragoco Gerberding & Co, Holzminden, Germany Abil 350 (polydimethylsiloxane) Goldschmidt AG, Essen, Germany Ameroxol OE-20 (oleth-20) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Glucate SS (methyl glucose sesquistearate) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, Germany Texapon Z (sodium lauryl sulfate) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Texapon A (ammonium lauryl sulfate) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Dehyton K (cocamidopropyl betaine) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Glucamate SSE-20 (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) Nordmann, Rassmann & Co., Hamburg, FRG Comperlan LD (lauramide DEA) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Witconate AOS (alpha olefin sulfonate) Witco S.A, Paris, France Comperlan COD (cocamide DEA) Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Isopropyl myristate; Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany Dye pigments; Dragoco Gerberding & Co, Holzminden, Germany

The information contained herein has been compiled carefully to the best of our knowledge. We do not accept any responsibility or liability for the information given in respect of the described product. Our product has to be applied under full and own responsibility of the user, especially in respect of any patent rights of others and any law or government regulation.

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XG_A3_06_EN