The Science in Cosmetics 2006 28 minutes Program Synopsis Cosmetics are big business. They are used by almost every person walking on the Earth and by many students in your classroom. This program shows students how cosmetics are made and how they have been used for thousands of years. Bases, bulking agents, coloring agents, fragrances and preservatives are outlined. The making of an emulsion is demonstrated and the processes of distillation or solvent extraction explained. This is everyday science in action.

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The Science in Cosmetics Teacher Notes: Jeannette Jolley B.Sc. (La Trobe University) B.Ed. (La Trobe University)

Introduction This program defines a cosmetic as a substance used to cleanse or enhance a person’s appearance or smell. It is different to a therapeutic, which changes bodily processes. Students are shown how cosmetics have been used for thousands of years. From the ancient Egyptians 6000 years ago, to native tribal people in Africa and elsewhere that used war paint during special ceremonies, to the early theatres of the middle ages until in the Twentieth Century, when it became big business, as most people use some such products. Cosmetics are mixtures that usually contain bases, bulking and coloring agents, fragrances and preservatives. These mixtures are either oil in water or water in oil emulsions. The making of such an emulsion in the school laboratory is demonstrated. Perfumes are made from essential oils, extracted from plants and dissolved in alcohol and water. The main methods in which the oils are extracted are distillation and solvent extraction. Perfumes are available in a range of concentrations, with the most concentrated being the most expensive. Before using a cosmetic, it is useful to know something about what is in the product and what purpose it has.

Program Rationale To educate students in how cosmetics that most of them use everyday are made and used today and in the past.

Background Information Cosmetics are big business today. They are defined as substances that are used to cleanse or enhance a person’s appearance or smell, and are used by almost every person walking on the Earth. Cosmetics have been used for thousands of years, but not always using safe materials.

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The Science in Cosmetics

DVD Timeline 00:00:00

Introduction

00:00:56

History of Cosmetics

00:05:42

Common Ingredients and Purposes

00:10:18

Cosmetic Emulsions

00:14:29

Obtaining the Scent

00:19:41

Making a Cleansing Cream

00:27:22

Credits

00:27:57

End of program

Useful Resources Internet Resources: •

http://www.science.org.au/nova/083/083print.htm

•

http://www.kids.net.au/encyclopedia-wiki/co/Cosmetics

•

http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/%7Edms/cos-toc.html

•

http://www.chemsoc.org/chembytes/ezine/1998/houlton.htm

•

http://www.choice.com.au/viewarticleasonepage.aspx?id=104191&catId=100285&tid=100008&p=1

•

http://pubs.acs.org/cen/whatstuff/stuff/7728scit2.html

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The Science in Cosmetics

Program Worksheet Before the Program 1.

A class discussion about what students understand to be the meaning of cosmetics. Brainstorm all the examples of cosmetics used in the students’ homes and what they are used for. Ensure that the students understand the difference between cosmetics and therapeutics.

2.

Research one of the following topics, finding out what products were used and why. a)

Cosmetics used by ancient Egyptians 6000 years ago

b)

Cosmetics used tribal natives as war paint and for ceremonies

c)

Cosmetics used in Europe and England in the middle ages

d)

Use of cosmetics in the theatres in Elizabethan times

e)

Cosmetics used in films and theatre today to create special effects.

f)

Aromatherapy

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The Science in Cosmetics During the Program 1.

The word ‘cosmetic’ comes from an ancient Greek word that means “to improve one’s

2.

An antiperspirant is not a cosmetic but a

”.

because it changes the

way a body sweats. 3.

In ancient times, the green copper compound malachite was used for color around the

.

4.

Red ochre, mixed with fat, was used to make

.

5.

It was not until

that women such as

Elizabeth Arden and Estee Lauder made cosmetics into big business. 6.

The basic ingredients of most cosmetics include: bases, bulking and

agents,

preservatives and fragrances or

.

7.

Bases are used to hold the other substances

.

8.

Coloring agents can come from plants such as

, animals such as the

insect or minerals such as coal 9.

Bulking agents are used to absorb sweat or to increase the product’s

.

10. Preservatives are needed to protect the product from

.

11. An emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that do not mix. Two such liquids are and

.

12. An example of a cosmetic that is an oil in water emulsion is a

.

13. Examples of water in oil emulsions include

, and

.

14. Some waxes and oils used in cosmetics include beeswax from and lanolin from

.

15. All perfumes are a mixture of

oils dissolved in alcohol and water.

16. These oils are mostly extracted from

.

17. One method of extraction involves heating the plant matter in water. This is called steam

.

18. Enfleurage involves placing a layer of flowers between two sheets covered in

.

19. The 4 ingredients needed to make a cleansing cream at home or school are: liquid

,

,

and distilled

20. Homemade cleansing cream should be stored in an

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. container.

The Science in Cosmetics After the Program 1.

Find these words in the following Wordsearch: MALACHITE MOISTURISER PERFUME SCENT TALC THERAPEUTIC

COSMETIC DISTILLATION EMULSION ENFLEURAGE LANOLIN LIPSTICK

AFTERSHAVE BASE BEESWAX BORAX CHARCOAL COCHINEAL

C R E T N E C S E C Q G N T H

E O V A U F C I G I E A B A H

N M S R R E E J A T T R P L T

M O U M E G D D R U I K E C I

B O I L E P R D U E H C R F D

M E I T S T X T E P C I F S A

L Y E S A I I U L A A T U B T

C J S S T L O C F R L S M O Y

E Y T V W U L N N E A P E R X

Q G B Z R A R I E H M I B A G

I E O R A S X I T T X L A X X

L A N O L I N Z S S V X S M D

L A E N I H C O C E I D E L N

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C H A R C O A L K O R D N C G

O E P T A F T E R S H A V E L

The Science in Cosmetics

Suggested Student Responses During the Program 1.

The word ‘cosmetic’ comes from an ancient Greek word that means “to improve one’s beauty/ appearance”.

2.

An antiperspirant is not a cosmetic but a therapeutic because it changes the way a body sweats.

3.

In ancient times, the green copper compound malachite was used for color around the eyes.

4.

Red ochre, mixed with fat, was used to make lipstick.

5.

It was not until the 20th Century that women such as Elizabeth Arden and Estée Lauder made cosmetics into big business.

6.

The basic ingredients of most cosmetics include: bases, bulking and coloring agents, preservatives and fragrances or perfumes.

7.

Bases are used to hold the other substances together.

8.

Coloring agents can come from plants such as beetroot, animals such as the cochineal insect or minerals such as coal tar

9.

Bulking agents are used to absorb sweat or to increase the product’s volume.

10. Preservatives are needed to protect the product from contamination. 11. An emulsion is a mixture of two liquids that do not mix. Two such liquids are water and oil. 12. An example of a cosmetic that is an oil in water emulsion is a moisturizer. 13. Examples of water in oil emulsions include lipsticks, foundation, blusher, eyeshadow, or mascara. 14. Some waxes and oils used in cosmetics include beeswax from honeycomb and lanolin from sheep’s wool. 15. All perfumes are a mixture of essential oils dissolved in alcohol and water. 16. These oils are mostly extracted from plants. 17. One method of extraction involves heating the plant matter in water. This is called steam distillation. 18. Enfleurage involves placing a layer of flowers between two sheets covered in fat. 19. The 4 ingredients needed to make a cleansing cream at home or school are: liquid paraffin, beeswax, borax and distilled water. 20. Homemade cleansing cream should be stored in an airtight container.

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The Science in Cosmetics After the Program 1.

Find these words in the following Wordsearch: (Over, Down, Direction) AFTERSHAVE (1,9,E) BASE (1,4,S) BEESWAX (14,15,W) BORAX (2,8,E) CHARCOAL (15,5,S) COCHINEAL (14,5,S)

C * S B A S E L A R N E E * N

* I * C * * I B F E O N M * I

COSMETIC (8,8,NW) DISTILLATION (12,11,W) EMULSION (1,13,E) ENFLEURAGE (1,12,E) LANOLIN (7,15,W) LIPSTICK (1,8,NE)

T * T * E P * O T S I F U * L

* H * E S N * R E I T L L E O

* * E T M * T A R R A E S M N

* * I R * S * X S U L U I U A

* C * E A * O * H T L R O F L

K * T T * P * C A S I A N R X

* * A I * * E * V I T G * E A

* * L H * * * U E O S E * P W

MALACHITE (15,4,W) MOISTURISER (11,10,W) PERFUME (10,14,W) SCENT (1,3,SE) TALC (8,3,E) THERAPEUTIC (3,1,SE)

* * C C * * * * T M I * * * S

* * * A * * * * * I D * * * E

* * * L * * * * * * C * * * E

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* * * A C O C H I N E A L * B

* * * M C H A R C O A L * * *