©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Goa & Mumbai North Goa p118
Panaji & Central Goa p78
Mumbai (Bombay) p38
Goa
South Goa p159
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Paul Harding Abigail Blasi, Trent Holden, Iain Stewart
PLAN YOUR TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Welcome to Goa & Mumbai . . . . . . . . . . 4 Goa & Mumbai Map. . . . . . . 6 Goa & Mumbai’s Top 12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 14 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 18 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Beach Planner. . . . . . . . . . 26 Yoga & Activities . . . . . . . . 29 Travel with Children. . . . . 33 Regions at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
UNIQUELY INDIA/GETTY IMAGES ©
LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©
ASHIYANA RETREAT CENTRE, MANDREM P152
ALAN LAGADU/GETTY IMAGES ©
PALOLEM P183
MUMBAI (BOMBAY). . . . . . . . . . 38
PANAJI & CENTRAL GOA . . . . . . 78
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . . . . 67 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 70 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Getting There & Away. . . . . 75 Getting Around. . . . . . . . . . . 76
Panaji. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 West of Panaji. . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Panaji to Old Goa. . . . . . . . 93 Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Divar Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Goa Velha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Ponda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Around Ponda. . . . . . . . . . 104 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Molem & Around . . . . . . . . 107 Beyond Goa. . . . . . . . . . . 110
Contents UNDERSTAND Hampi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Around Hampi. . . . . . . . . . 116 Hospet (Hosapete) . . . . . . 117
NORTH GOA . . . . . . . 118 Panaji to Fort Aguada . . . . 119 Candolim, Sinquerim & Fort Aguada. . . . . . . . . . . 119 Calangute & Baga . . . . . . . 127 Anjuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Mapusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Vagator & Chapora . . . . . . 143 Siolim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Morjim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Aswem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Mandrem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Arambol (Harmal) . . . . . . . 153 Inland Bardez & Bicholim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
SOUTH GOA . . . . . . . 159 Margao (Madgaon) . . . . . . 162 Around Margao. . . . . . . . . . 166 Vasco da Gama. . . . . . . . . . 169 Around Vasco da Gama. . . . . . . . . . 170 Bogmalo to Betalbatim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Colva. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Benaulim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Varca, Cavelossim & Mobor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Assolna to Agonda. . . . . . 180 Agonda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Chaudi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Palolem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Patnem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Rajbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Galgibag & Talpona . . . . . 190 Polem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Beyond Goa. . . . . . . . . . . 191 Gokarna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Jog Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Goa Today . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 The Way of Life. . . . . . . . 205 Delicious India . . . . . . . . 210 Markets & Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Arts & Architecture . . . . 215 Wildlife & the Environment. . . . . . . 218 Scams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Women & Solo Travellers . . . . . . . . 224
SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 226 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
SPECIAL FEATURES
Beach Planner . . . . . . . . . 26
Yoga & Activities . . . . . . . 29 Markets & Shopping . . . 213 Arts & Architecture. . . . 215 CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE IMMACULATE CONCEPTION, PANAJI P79
Wildlife & the Environment . . . . . . 218
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
22
Itineraries • # Arambol
É • # Mandrem
É
r ve Ri ra • # Siolim o p # ha Morjim • C É
É
É
# Aswem •
Chapora • # • # Vagator
• # Anjuna
É
S E A
É
A R A B I A N
É É
• # Baga
É • # Calangute
É
• # Candolim
É
É
É # Fort Aguada •
É
É Betim • #
• #Reis
Magos
r ive vi R
f # Mando
• # Panaji
2 KS Northern Beaches
WEE
For travellers zipping south from Mumbai, the northern beaches encompass a little of everything that’s great about Goa – fine beaches, forts, rivers, lively resorts, yoga and nightlife. Start by taking the short cut across the Mandovi River by vehicle ferry from Panaji to Betim and pay a visit to refurbished Reis Magos Fort before taking in the views from hilltop Fort Aguada. The beaches of Candolim, Calangute and Baga make up Goa’s busiest resort strip so there’s always plenty to do here, from water sports to nightclubs and beach shacks to fine dining. Head north of the Baga River to Anjuna, where the hippie trance days all began. It’s a good place to join a yoga class, party at one of the beachfront clubs or browse the Wednesday flea market. Nearby, Vagator and Chapora are easygoing villages with a relaxed party vibe: climb Chapora Fort for great sunset views or dine on the clifftop at Thalassa. Across the Chapora River is Russian-flavoured Morjim, mellow Aswem and Mandrem, with upmarket hut villages, a lovely clean beach and good yoga retreats. Then it’s on to Arambol, a popular backpacker beach with a Bob Marley vibe and paragliding from the northern headland.
23 É
# Fort Terekhol • # Querim Beach •
• # Arambol # Aswem Mandrem • • # # Siolim Morjim • # • Assagao #É • Chapora • • # # • Vagator #Mapusa • # Anjuna • ## Dr Salim Ali Baga • Arpora # Bird Sanctuary Calangute • • # • # #Old Goa Candolim É• • # Panaji
É
É
É
É
É
É
Ponda (Spice Farms)
É
Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary
É
É
# Velsao •
É
A R A B I A N S E A
# É •
Margao # É # • Colva • • # Chandor # Benaulim • É
É
# Cavelossim • # Mobor •
É
Cotigao
• # Wildlife
• # Cola Beach # Agonda • # Patnem Palolem • • #
Sanctuary
É
# Galgibag •
4KS Goa in a Nutshell
WEE
Start in the state capital, Panaji, where you can easily spend a few days staying in heritage accommodation, cruising the Mandovi River and eating well at Goan restaurants. Following the Mandovi eastwards, birdwatchers will enjoy taking the ferry over to Chorao Island for a visit to the mangroves of the Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. Otherwise continue to Goa’s greatest historic site – the churches and cathedrals of Old Goa. The next day head further east to visit the Hindu temples around Ponda, spending the afternoon having lunch and taking a plantation tour at a spice farm. Further on nature lovers will enjoy Goa’s smallest wildlife sanctuary, Bondla, and its largest, Bhagwan Mahavir, or a trip to Dudhsagar Falls. Returning to Panaji, it’s time to hit the beach. For beaches north of the Baga River, head straight up the NH66 to Mapusa and continue from there. Otherwise take the free ferry across the Mandovi and follow the back road over the Nerul River and along Fort Aguada Rd, exploring crowded Candolim, Calangute and Baga beaches. Cross the Baga River to Arpora – if it’s a Saturday, don’t miss one of the night markets at Baga or Arpora. Continue north to the village of Assagao to sample some of Goa’s best yoga retreats. From here you can explore the coast from the hippie, party beaches of Anjuna and Vagator, and the boutique hotels of Siolim to the northern beaches of Morjim, Aswem, Mandrem and Arambol. Further north is secluded Querim Beach, from where you can take the vehicle ferry across the Terekhol River to Terekhol Fort, Goa’s most northerly point. Now head south down the NH66 to Margao, a good base from which to explore the traditional villages around Chandor, or hit the beaches which stretch roughly from Velsao south to Colva, Benaulim, Cavelossim and Mobor. South of the Sal River, it’s a beautiful coastal drive to isolated Cola Beach, laid-back Agonda, then onto the palmfringed southern jewel of Palolem. There’s plenty to do here, from lazing with a book to exploring Patnem and Galgibag beaches and Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary.
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
# É •
É • #
É
Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary & Dudhsagar Falls
24
JOHN HARPER/GETTY IMAGES ©
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Bottom: Cabo da Rama (p180)
AMIT BASU PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©
Top: Palolem (p183)
25 Aldona
É
É Velsao • # • #Arossim # Utorda •
• #
É
# Bogmalo •
Torda • #
• # Divar Island # Old Goa É •
É
# Majorda •
Corjuem Fort
• # • # Mayem Lake • # Naroa
• #
Panaji
• # Shri
Mahadeva Temple
É
Loutolim • #
É
É
• #
Margao
É
• # Chandor
• #
É
• # Quepem É
ARABIAN SEA
Cola Beach
• #
Rivona
É
# Usgalimal • Rock Carvings
# Palolem • • #Patnem
Dudhsagar Falls
• # Buddhist Caves
É
# Agonda •
É
É
# Varca • ARABIAN SEA # • Cavelossim • # Assolna # Mobor • # Betul •
Cabo da • # Rama
• #
É
Netravali Bubble Lake
• # • # É • # Palolem É Tanshikar • # • # Spice Farm
# Galgibag •
É
Patnem • #
Waterfalls
Polem
2 KS Southern Sun
WEE
South Goa is as much about lazing on the beaches as the north, but there are some interesting inland adventures here too. Start in busy Margao, where you can browse the market and grab a bite to eat at Ruta’s World Cafe or Longhuino’s. The beach at Colva is just 6km west of Margao and stretches up and down the coast. If you’re into scuba diving, head north to Bogmalo, via pretty Utorda and Velsao beaches, or make you way south to Benaulim (visit Goa Chitra museum here) through five-star territory at Varca and Cavelossim to the lovely spit of land at Mobor, where you can stop for lunch at the Blue Whale shack near the mouth of the Sal River. Follow the coastal road through bucolic Betul to lovely Agonda, calling in at Cabo de Rama fort and secluded Cola Beach. The final coastal stretch leads to Goa’s little paradise beach at Palolem, great for swimming, yoga, cooking courses and beach huts. Patnem is a little more peaceful. Intrepid travellers should hire a bike and explore further south to Galgibag and Polem beaches.
5
S DAY
Back-Country Trips
Take a few days to get off the beaten track. From Panaji, start out early to Colem for Dudhsagar Falls. On the way back stop at Tambdi Surla for Shri Mahadeva Temple, the elephant camp at Jungle Book or some birdwatching at Backwoods Camp. Another excellent self-drive day trip from Panaji is to take a picturesque circuit from Old Goa, to serene Divar Island (via a ferry), catch another ferry to Naroa, where you can take in Mayem Lake, Corjuem Fort and Aldona. Return to Panaji via Torda, visiting the Houses of Goa museum. Head south to Margao, from where you can explore the villages of Chandor, with one of Goa’s grandest Portuguese mansions, Quepem, Loutolim and the ancient Rivona Buddhist caves and prehistoric Usgalimal rock carvings. Continue on to Palolem or Patnem, from where you can head inland through forest and farmland to the Netravali Protected Area to discover the mysterious ‘bubble lake’, the Tanshikar Spice Farm and jungle treks to remote waterfalls.
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
• # Betalbatim # Margao # • Colva • # Benaulim •
Jungle Book & Backwoods Camp
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Paul Harding Coordinating Author; Goa Paul first landed in India in the mid-’90s looking for adventure and soon found himself in Goa looking for a decent beach hut. After many return visits to India as a traveller, writer and photographer, he keeps landing back in Goa, where the pace of life is a little slower but the wit of the people is often quicker. During his travels Paul worked on Lonely Planet’s Goa guidebook in the 2000s and was fortunate enough to be drawn back for this edition, where he sampled seafood and beaches, sunsets and susegad and chose to ride a Honda Kinetic over an Enfield. Contributor to more than 40 Lonely Planet titles, this was Paul’s 9th assignment on India and the second time with his intrepid young daughter, Layla. Iain Stewart Mumbai Iain grew up in Leicester, a very Indian town transplanted to the Midlands, UK (complete with its own curry mile). He first visited India in 1991 and explored the sights at totally the wrong time of year, with temperatures approaching 50°C in parts. For this trip he wised up and travelled post-monsoon: bar-hopping in Mumbai, meandering down the Konkan coast and having several near-misses with tigers in Tadoba. Abigail Blasi Abigail fell in love with India on her first visit in 1994, and since then she’s explored and written about the country from north to south and back again. She’s covered plenty of other places for Lonely Planet too, from Mauritania and Mali to Rome and Lisbon. Abigail wrote the Scams, Women & Solo Travellers and Health chapters.
Trent Holden Beyond Goa On his third time authoring in India, Trent checked out Hampi’s ruins before hitting the beaches in Gokarna. A freelance travel writer based in London, Trent also covers destinations such as Nepal, Zimbabwe and Japan. In between travels he writes about food and music. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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