Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Texas. Dallas & the Panhandle Plains p139. San Antonio & Hill Country p90 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Texas Dallas & the Panhandle Plains p139 Big Bend & West Texas p300 Austin San Antonio & Hill Country p54 # ^ ...
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Texas Dallas & the Panhandle Plains p139

Big Bend & West Texas p300

Austin San Antonio & Hill Country

p54 # ^

p90

Gulf Coast & South Texas p262

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Lisa Dunford, Mariella Krause, Ryan Ver Berkmoes

Houston & East Texas p206

PLAN YOUR TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Texas. . . . . . . . 4

AUSTIN. . . . . . . . . . . . 54

Texas Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Around Austin. . . . . . . . . . 86 Bastrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Lockhart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Highland Lakes. . . . . . . . . . 88

Texas’ Top 25. . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20 If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . 34 Travel with Children. . . . . 40 Texas BBQ & Cuisine. . . . 43 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 51

WITOLD SKRYPCZAK / GETTY IMAGES ©

GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK P336

HOLGER LEUE / GETTY IMAGES ©

BUCKHORN SALOON & MUSEUM P95

SAN ANTONIO & HILL COUNTRY. . . . . . 90 San Antonio. . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Around San Antonio. . . . 120 Natural Bridge Caverns. . . 120 New Braunfels . . . . . . . . . . 120 Gruene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 San Marcos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Hill Country. . . . . . . . . . . 124 Johnson City & . Stonewall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Fredericksburg. . . . . . . . . . 125 Enchanted Rock State Natural Area . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Luckenbach. . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Kerrville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Comfort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Bandera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Boerne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Wimberley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136

DALLAS & THE PANHANDLE PLAINS. . . . . . . . . . . 139 Dallas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Fort Worth. . . . . . . . . . . . 160 North of Dallas & Fort Worth. . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Grapevine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Frisco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 McKinney. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Denton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Decatur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 South of Dallas & Fort Worth. . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Arlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173

Waxahachie. . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Glen Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 West. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Waco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Panhandle & Plains . . . . 179 Permian Basin . . . . . . . . . 180 Big Spring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 San Angelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Sonora. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Junction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Abilene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Buffalo Gap. . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Lubbock. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Along Texas Hwy 70. . . . . . 195 Turkey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Quitaque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Caprock Canyons . State Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Palo Duro Canyon . . . . . . . 197 Amarillo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Canadian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

HOUSTON & EAST TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Houston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Around Houston. . . . . . 234 Clear Lake & Around. . . . 234 San Jacinto Battleground State Historic Site. . . . . . 235 Spring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Sam Houston . National Forest. . . . . . . . . 236 Huntsville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Washington County. . . . 236 Brenham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Round Top. . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 La Grange . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Chappell Hill. . . . . . . . . . . 239 Washington-on-the-. Brazos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239

Contents UNDERSTAND

Big Bend National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 West of Big Bend National Park . . . . . . . . 309 Terlingua & Study Butte. . . 309 Lajitas Golf Resort & Spa. . . 312 Big Bend Ranch . State Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Central West Texas. . . . . 312 Fort Davis & . Davis Mountains. . . . . . . . . 313 Marfa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Alpine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Marathon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 El Paso. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Van Horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Fort Stockton . . . . . . . . . . 335 Guadalupe Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 336

History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Life in Texas . . . . . . . . . . 351 Music Scene . . . . . . . . . . 358 Football!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Land & Wildlife. . . . . . . . 364

SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 370 Transportation . . . . . . . . 376 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 391

SPECIAL FEATURES

Davis Mountains State Park

385 Û ]

• #

Vieja tains Moun

• #

Glass

Alpine

MARATHON

Viewing Area

Chinati Hot Springs

Moun

tains

Stockton Plateau

• #

90 Ù [

• # Sanderson

ß `

67 Ù [

385 Û ]

118

æ #

• # Plata

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• # Shafter

s

nt ou M

ain

o iag nt

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ío

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Black Gap Wildlife Management Area

Sa

ti

Rio

ina Ch

Cibolo Creek Ranch

a Br

BOQUILLAS # CANYON æ

vo)

# Presidio # • Ojinaga •

BOQUILLAS CANYON

Big Bend Ranch State Park

# Fort Leaton ÷ State Historic Site

• # Redford

V

ER

Heath Canyon

# æ

æ # Sauceda

RO

÷ # Study Butte

AD

Colorado Canyon Paseo Lajitas • #

• #

Lajitas

• #

Chihuahuan Desert

• #

TERLINGUA Chisos Basin • #

• #

RIVER ROAD Rte 170 winds up, down and around geological formations as it follows the sinuous Rio Grande between Lajitas and Presido. (p312)

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

TERLINGUA Terlingua's ghost town is a must-do. Santa Have Elenaa beer on the porch of the general store, Terlingua Trading Co, before you dine at Starlight Theater (or below ground in a kiva); then sleep in luxuriously converted adobe ruins. (p309) s

de an Gr rra Si e

RI

MARFA What a fun little town. Visit the old hotel where Giant was filmed, eat at foodie-fave restaurants, watch for alien lights and stay in an old Airstream trailer or other boutique motel. (p316)

U Ó V

A sleepy little outpost, Marathon has one claim to fame – the Old Gage Hotel. Choose between Western 285 Û ] rooms or adobe casitas (little bungalows); be sure to stop at the White Buffalo Bar. (p321)

FORT DAVIS 17 ä b

MARFA • #

æ # Marfa Lights æ #

385 Û Take a dip in] the largest spring-fed swimming pool in the state. (p314) 10

MARATHON

118

90 Ù [

# Ruidosa •

Up at 5000ft in the Davis Mountains you have gorgeous, scenic drives, trails and overlooks. Check out this one-horse town's historic fort, then sleep at the state park's Native American-styled adobe lodge. (p313)

• #

Fort Stockton

67 Ù [

ß `

# ÷

æ # PRADA

Candelaria • #

FORT DAVIS

Pe BALMORHEA STATE cos 67 Ù [ Riv PARK er

10 U Ó V

STATE PARK

# La Linda •

Outfitter-arranged rafting in the national park ranges from turbid white water to gentle floats, depending on season and launch point. Boquillas Canyon offers the longest, most tranquil and most scenic ride. (p303)

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Chisos Mountains, Chihuahuan Desert, Rio Grande Valley: this amazing, 1252-sq-mile park has three separate ecosystems. All are covered by 200 miles of trails and 150 miles of back roads. So get going! (p301)

PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K

4 4

Marfa is known for avant-garde art: the Chianti foundation, the Ballroom gallery (with outdoor theater to come)... But the Prada installation (an entire fake store) outside of Valentine may be the oddest. (p319)

60 km 40 miles

To ya h

÷ BALMORHEA #

MCDONALD Fort Davis OBSERVATORY National Historic Site æ # # ÷

• # Valentine

PRADA

is Mou ntai ns

Ck

• # Balmorhea # Toyahvale •

Dav

It's a star party! Weekend evenings the observatory hosts nighttime outdoor viewings that use at least one of the amazing telescopes on-site. During the day you can tour the facility. (p313)

Sierra

Music Scene . . . . . 358

MCDONALD OBSERVATORY

s ain unt Mo

Texas BBQ & Cuisine . . . . . . . . . 43

PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K

Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . 34

e # 00

Off the Beaten Track: Texas an itm

Off the Beaten Track: Texas . . . . . . . 32

Qu

The Coastal Bend. . . . . . 263 Brazosport Area. . . . . . . . 263 Matagorda. . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Palacios. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Aransas National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Goose Island State Park. . 267 Rockport & Fulton. . . . . . 268 Coastal Plains. . . . . . . . . 269 Victoria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Goliad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Corpus Christi Area. . . . 271 Corpus Christi. . . . . . . . . . 271 Port Aransas. . . . . . . . . . . 276 Mustang & Padre . Island Beaches. . . . . . . . . 279 Corpus Christi to . Harlingen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Lower Gulf Coast. . . . . . 281 Harlingen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge. . . . . . . . . 282 Los Fresnos. . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Port Isabel. . . . . . . . . . . . . 282

BIG BEND & WEST TEXAS. . . . . . 300

Texas Today. . . . . . . . . . . 340

os Mou ntain

GULF COAST & SOUTH TEXAS . . . . . 262

South Padre Island . . . . . 284 Rio Grande Valley. . . . . . 289 Brownsville . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 McAllen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 The Upper Valley . . . . . . . 296 Laredo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Carrizo Springs. . . . . . . . . 298 Eagle Pass. . . . . . . . . . . . . 298

Chis

Bryan-College Station. . 240 Galveston. . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Beaumont & Golden Triangle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Beaumont. . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Big Thicket . National Preserve. . . . . . . 252 Orange. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Port Arthur . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Northeast Texas. . . . . . 254 Nacogdoches . . . . . . . . . . 255 Tyler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Canton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Kilgore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Jefferson. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Caddo Lake. . . . . . . . . . . . 260

On the Road

Dallas & the Panhandle Plains p139

Big Bend & West Texas p300

Austin

San Antonio & Hill Country

p54 # ^

p90

Gulf Coast & South Texas p262

Houston & East Texas p206

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Lisa Dunford Coordinating author; Houston & East Texas Does living in a state for 22 years, marrying a native and learning to speak the language mean someone can become a naturalized Texan? Lisa sure hopes so. Over the years she’s logged tens of thousands of miles exploring her adopted home. She loves cruising the country roads seeing what there is to see – a cow in a bluebonnet field, or an old barnlike dance hall. She’s bought boys drinks at the Continental Club in Austin, ridden the rides at the State Fair in Dallas and sailed on Corpus Christi Bay. Before becoming a freelance writer, Lisa was a restaurant reviewer and an editor in the features department at the Corpus Christi Caller-Times newspaper. Now no matter where she roams, she always returns to the patch of riverfront east of Houston that she, her husband and their dogs call home. Lisa also wrote the Welcome to Texas, Texas’ Top 25, Need to Know, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Outdoor Activities, Travel with Children and Regions at a Glance chapters, as well as the Understand and Survival sections. Mariella Krause Austin; San Antonio & Hill Country; Big Bend & West Texas Mariella first fell in love with Austin when she checked out the UT campus during her junior year of high school. After college, she intended to live ‘everywhere,’ but felt so at home in Austin that she accidentally stayed for 15 years. Mariella will always consider Texas home, and she still sprinkles her language with Texanisms whenever possible, much to the amusement of those who don’t consider ‘y’all’ a legitimate pronoun. Mariella also wrote the Texas BBQ & Cuisine chapter. Ryan Ver Berkmoes Dallas & the Panhandle Plains; Gulf Coast & South Texas Ryan grew up in Santa Cruz, California, the sort of goofball beachtown place that made him immediately love Port Aransas. An itinerant wanderer, he was most at home on the hundreds of miles of Texas backroads he traversed for this book. Whether it was discovering a forgotten town on Texas Hwy 70 or driving to the literal end of the road to (happily!) check out yet another empty Gulf Coast beach, he relished every click on the odometer.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 4th edition – Jan 2014 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 199 3 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

28

Itineraries # Dallas • • # Waxahachie

É

Austin • # Houston • #

• # Gruene

É

San Antonio • #

É

Corpus Christi

• #

2 KS Texas’ Greatest Hits

WEE

So you want to do it all but are short on time? Start with three days in Dallas (p140). See the JFK assassination sites downtown and eat in trendy Uptown, then the next day trip out to the historic Fort Worth Stockyards. Heading south out of town on day three, stop in cute little Waxahachie (p175) for a bite before spending two nights in Austin (p54) listening to live music and watching the bats fly. Stop for a night in the Old West–era town of Gruene (p121), to dance at one of the state’s oldest halls, before continuing on to San Antonio (p91). In two days there you can explore the Alamo and Riverwalk. Then Corpus Christi (p271) is just a three-hour drive south; it’s a good base to kick back for a couple nights and hit the beach at Padre Island National Seashore or Port Aransas. Afterwards it’s time to turn north for three nights in Houston (p207). NASA’s Space Center Houston is a not-to-miss attraction, as is the museum district. For a third day’s excursion, hikers could trek out to Big Thicket National Preserve; history and sunshine lovers should see Galveston.

29

• #

É

Rockport

Fredericksburg

Austin

É

• #

• #

• #

Kerrville • #

• #

• #

Corpus • # Christi • # • #

Boerne # Bandera •

É

Galveston

Lake Jackson

• #

Aransas National Wildlife Refuge

Port Aransas

• #

É

• # San Antonio • # South Padre Island

MEXICO • #

1A0YS Austin, Hill Country D & San Antonio Start your Hill Country adventure with two days in Austin (p54). Don’t miss the Texas State History Museum, a splash in Barton Springs Pool or eating along quirky South Congress Ave before club-hopping. Next, head out for the countryside to spend two nights in the German town of Fredericksburg (p125); area activity choices include a visit to the Texas wine country, a climb up Enchanted Rock or a musical pilgrimage to Luckenbach. Enjoy the wandering road, and wildflowers in spring, as you meander south. Skirt the Guadalupe River and lunch in Kerrville (p130) before overnighting in the cowboy town of Bandera (p134). A trail ride at a local dude ranch and a drink at the 11th St Cowboy Bar are must-dos. Take time to go antique hunting (or to go caving) in Boerne (p135) on your way to three nights in San Antonio (p92). There you can follow Mission Trail and eat Mexican food to your heart’s content. One night make sure to catch a live local act outside of town at John T Floore’s Country Store in Helotes or at Gruene Hall near New Braunfels – now that’s country.

1

WEE

K

Coastal Texas

Trade the cities for sunny beaches, small museums, historical towns and some of the state’s best bird-watching. Begin in Galveston (p241), spending two days admiring the turn-of-the-20th-century mansions, exploring the state park and dining and shopping on the Strand. Follow the coast south, stopping at the fun little Sea Center Texas aquarium and hatcheries in Lake Jackson (p267). Then make your way down to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge (p266), the best birdwatching site on the Texas coast. Stay a night nearby in the seaside town of Rockport (p268); in season boat tours depart from here for the endangered whooping crane’s feeding grounds. Spend a couple of nights at the coastal fishing town of Port Aransas (p276), near the outlet to Corpus Christi Bay, and explore Corpus Christi (p271) or Padre Island National Seashore, or just laze on a local beach. Four more hours south finds you for the last two nights in South Padre Island (p284). Be sure to stop at the Birding & Nature Center there, as well as trying beachfront horseback riding or water sports.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries

• #

30

JEREMY WOODHOUSE / GETTY IMAGES ©

PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries

Bottom: Galleria (p158), Dallas

SUPERSTOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©

Top: Caddo Lake (p260)

31

Washington-on-the-Brazos

É

• #

É • #

Chappell Hill É

Brenham É

# Round • Top

• #

Jefferson

Dallas

Houston

• #

# •

É • #

Edom

TEXAS

5

S DAY

Houston & EastCentral Texas

Ah, big-city life. Spend three days immersed in culture and fine food around Houston (p210). Check out some of the many arts and sciences exhibits in the Museum District, then prowl the eclectic Montrose neighborhood for your evening meal. While in town don’t miss catching a show in the Theater District or have a night out clubbing on Washington Ave. After you’ve eaten, drank and shopped yourself silly, escape to the country for a few days. Book into a B&B and spend the next two nights in the small town of Brenham (p236), home of Blue Bell ice cream (yes, you should tour the factory). From there you can explore the tiny towns of the region, stopping at famous Royer’s Cafe in Round Top (p238) or checking out the lavender farm in Chappell Hill (p239). To the north is the historical site and museums at Washington-on-the Brazos (p239), where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed. While you’re in the area, don’t forget to eat some of the Czech-resident-inspired kolaches (sweetbread pastries stuffed with savory or sweet filling).

1

WEE

K

Tyler • #

• #

É

Kilgore

Dallas & Northeast Texas

Spend two days museum-hopping in Dallas (p141). Be sure to take a break for shopping and dining in the Bishop Arts District, or for braving the huge Galleria megamall. Then it’s time to head east for small-town pleasures among the pine forests. Be sure to detour down FM 279; the 8-mile stretch of road from Ben Wheeler to Edom (p257) has a surprising number of cafes, artisan shops and live music in the evenings. You can spend the night in nearby Tyler (p256), which is an especially good idea if it’s spring and the azaleas are in bloom – or if you want to see a tiger sanctuary. From there continue east, pausing for lunch and to see the Rangerette Showcase & Museum and the old oil derricks in the little town of Kilgore (p258). Spending three nights in Jefferson (p258) allows you to peruse the historic town and take excursions. Choose from a canoe ride or a swamp-boat nature trip on sinuous Caddo Lake or a drive to Tex Ritter’s hometown Texas Country Music Hall of Fame in Carthage.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries

• #

Off the Beaten Track: Texas an itm Qu

MCDONALD OBSERVATORY

# Toyahvale •

ta un Mo ins

Davis Mountains State Park

• # Valentine

4 4

MARFA • #

æ # Marfa Lights

Viewing Area

Chinati Hot Springs

æ # # Ruidosa •

Cibolo Creek Ranch

67 Ù [

æ #

M ti

• # Plata • # Shafter

in ta

s

de ( R ran

n ou

G Rio

a in Ch

Up at 5000ft in the Davis Mountains you have gorgeous, scenic drives, trails and overlooks. Check out this one-horse town's historic fort, then sleep at the state park's Native American-styled adobe lodge. (p313)

• #

FORT DAVIS 17 ä b

90 Ù [

Candelaria • #

FORT DAVIS

s

118

ains

Marfa is known for avant-garde art: the Chianti foundation, the Ballroom gallery (with outdoor theater to come)... But the Prada installation (an entire fake store) outside of Valentine may be the oddest. (p319)

unt ain

ß `

# ÷

æ # PRADA

ount ja M a Vie

PRADA

Mo

MCDONALD Fort Davis OBSERVATORY National Historic Site æ # # ÷

Sierr

PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B E AT E N T R AC K

Dav is

It's a star party! Weekend evenings the observatory hosts nighttime outdoor viewings that use at least one of the amazing telescopes on-site. During the day you can tour the facility. (p313)

ío a Br

vo )

# Presidio # • Ojinaga •

Big Bend Ranch State Park

÷ Fort Leaton # State Historic Site

• # Redford

r Si e

G ra

RI V

ER

e nd ra

RO

AD

Colorado Canyon

MARFA What a fun little town. Visit the old hotel where Giant was filmed, eat at foodie-fave restaurants, watch for alien lights and stay in an old Airstream trailer or other boutique motel. (p316)

æ # Sauceda

Paseo Lajitas • #

Lajitas

• #

Chihuahuan Desert

RIVER ROAD Rte 170 winds up, down and around geological formations as it follows the sinuous Rio Grande between Lajitas and Presido. (p312)

e # 00 To ya h

Pe BALMORHEA STATE co 67 sR Ù [ PARK ive

Ck

• # Balmorhea

60 km 40 miles

r

10 U Ó V

STATE PARK

# •

Fort Stockton

385 Û Take a dip in] the largest spring-fed swimming pool in the state. (p314) 10

U Ó V

67 Ù [

MARATHON 385 ] Û

sM Glas

# •

Alpine

MARATHON

ain ount

A sleepy little outpost, Marathon has one claim to fame – the Old Gage Hotel. Choose between Western 285 Û ] rooms or adobe casitas (little bungalows); be sure to stop at the White Buffalo Bar. (p321)

s

Stockton Plateau

# •

90 [ Ù

# Sanderson •

ß `

385 Û ]

118

go ia nt Sa

Black Gap Wildlife Management Area

nt ou M ns ai

BOQUILLAS # CANYON æ

BOQUILLAS CANYON Heath Canyon

# æ ÷ # Study Butte # •

# •

TERLINGUA Chisos Basin # •

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK

TERLINGUA # •

Chis os M oun tain s

Terlingua's ghost town is a must-do. Santa Have Elenaa beer on the porch of the general store, Terlingua Trading Co, before you dine at Starlight Theater (or below ground in a kiva); then sleep in luxuriously converted adobe ruins. (p309)

# La Linda •

Outfitter-arranged rafting in the national park ranges from turbid white water to gentle floats, depending on season and launch point. Boquillas Canyon offers the longest, most tranquil and most scenic ride. (p303)

BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Chisos Mountains, Chihuahuan Desert, Rio Grande Valley: this amazing, 1252-sq-mile park has three separate ecosystems. All are covered by 200 miles of trails and 150 miles of back roads. So get going! (p301)

PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B E AT E N T R AC K

÷ BALMORHEA #

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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