©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Mongolia Western Mongolia
Northern Mongolia p129
p206
Ulaanbaatar _ p56 # Central Mongolia
Eastern Mongolia p160
p98
The Gobi p179
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Michael Kohn, Anna Kaminski, Daniel McCrohan
PLAN YOUR TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Welcome to Mongolia . . . . 4
ULAANBAATAR . . . . . 56
Mongolia Map. . . . . . . . . . . 6
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Festivals & Events . . . . . . . . 72 Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 82 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 84 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Mongolia’s Top 14. . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 16 If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 20 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . 28 Organised Tours. . . . . . . . 35 Road Trip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Trans-Mongolian Railway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Naadam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 53
BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES ©
COSTUMED PERFORMER AT NAADAM (P50)
CENTRAL MONGOLIA. . . . . . . . . 98
PETER DEMARCO/GETTY IMAGES ©
Töv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Zuunmod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Protected Area . . . . . . . . . . 102 Nalaikh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Terelj Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Gachuurt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Khustain National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Övörkhangai . . . . . . . . . . 111 Arvaikheer . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Kharkhorin (Karakorum) . . . . . . . . . . . 113 West of Kharkhorin . . . . . . 119 East of Kharkhorin . . . . . . 121 Arkhangai . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Tsetserleg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Tsenkher Hot Springs . . . . 125 Tsetserleg to Tariat . . . . . . 126 Tariat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
NORTHERN MONGOLIA. . . . . . . . 129
WALL OF ERDENE ZUU KHIID (P114)
Selenge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Sükhbaatar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Altanbulag . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Dulaankhaan . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Darkhan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Amarbayasgalant Khiid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Bulgan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Erdenet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Bulgan City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Khövsgöl . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Mörön . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Khövsgöl Nuur National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Chandman-Öndör . . . . . . . 154 Darkhad Depression . . . . . 155 Mörön to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . 158
EASTERN MONGOLIA. . . . . . . . 160 Khentii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Chinggis Khot (Öndörkhaan) . . . . . . . . . . 162 Khökh Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Baldan Baraivun Khiid . . . 165 Öglögchiin Kherem . . . . . . 165 Binder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Dadal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Dornod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Choibalsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Kherlen Bar Khot . . . . . . . 171 Buir Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Khalkhiin Gol . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Sükhbaatar . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Baruun-Urt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Dariganga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Shiliin Bogd Uul . . . . . . . . . 177
THE GOBI. . . . . . . . . . 179 Dundgov . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Mandalgov . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Baga Gazryn Chuluu . . . . . 183 Süm Khökh Burd . . . . . . . . 184 Erdenedalai . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Ongiin Khiid . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu . . . . . . 186
Contents UNDERSTAND
DAVID SANTIAGO GARCIA/GETTY IMAGES ©
Mongolia Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 The Mongolian Way of Life. . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Traditional Gers . . . . . . . 250 Spiritualism in Mongolia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Mongolian Cuisine. . . . . 256 CAMEL RIDING, GOBI DESERT (P179)
Dornogov . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Sainshand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu . . . . . . . 189 Zamyn-Üüd . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Ömnögov . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Dalanzadgad . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Gurvan Saikhan National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Bayanzag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Bayankhongor . . . . . . . . 199 Bayankhongor City . . . . . . 199 Bayangovi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Amarbuyant Khiid . . . . . . 202 Ekhiin Gol . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Gov-Altai . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Altai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Great Gobi Strictly Protected Area . . . . . . . . . 205 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . 205
WESTERN MONGOLIA. . . . . . . . 206 Bayan-Ölgii . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ölgii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Sagsai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Tsengel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Altai Tavan Bogd National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 214
Tolbo Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Tsambagarav Uul National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Khovd. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Khovd City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Khar Us Nuur National Park . . . . . . . . . . 220 Chandmani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Tsenkheriin Agui . . . . . . . . 221 Mönkh Khairkhan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 222 Uvs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Ulaangom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Uvs Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Üüreg Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Kharkhiraa Uul & Türgen Uul . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Khökh Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Uvsiin Khar Us Nuur . . . . 227 Achit Nuur . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Khyargas Nuur National Park . . . . . . . . . . 228 Zavkhan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Uliastai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Zagastain Davaa . . . . . . . . 231 Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area. . . 231 Tosontsengel . . . . . . . . . . . 231
Tribal Mongolia. . . . . . . . 258 Wild Lands & Wildlife. . . 260
SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 266 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 311
SPECIAL FEATURES Organised Tours. . . . . . 35 Road Trip. . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Trans-Mongolian Railway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Naadam. . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
23
Itineraries
ULAANBAATAR Gorkhi-Terelj National Park É
_ #
É
É
É
É
É
Chinggis Khaan Statue
• #
É
÷ #
÷ #
ULAANBAATAR
Khustain National Park
• #
Mandshir Khiid
TÖV
1
WEE
K
Around Ulaanbaatar
Short trips from Ulaanbaatar can offer a taste of the countryside without having to invest too much time travelling along endless country roads. From UB, head to Khustain National Park for the night to watch the wild takhi horses. Back in Ulaanbaatar, catch a ride to Mandshir Khiid in Töv aimag, from where you can hike back over the mountain to Ulaanbaatar. This can be done either as a full day trip or as an overnight hike. Next, head east to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. There are a number of activity options here, including mountain biking, horse riding, rock climbing, hiking and river rafting. You can even learn the art of cheese-making from Bert, the Dutch cheesemaker. If you have your own vehicle, push on a little further east to see the enormous Chinggis Khaan Statue at Tsonjin Boldog. Back in Ulaanbaatar, leave one day for visiting the National Museum of Mongolia, Gandan Khiid and the Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan.
24
RUSSIA Üüreg Nuur
• #
÷ #
• #Ulaangom • # Kharkhiraa
Sagsai
É
Khoton Nuur
BAYANÖLGII
UVS
É
• # Ölgii
É
É
Tsengel
• #
Gol
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É
• #
É
KHÖVSGÖL
÷ Khyargas Nuur # National Park
Dörgön
Tsambagarav R Uul
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É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
Altai Tavan Bogd National Park
Khovd
• #
÷ Khar Us Nuur # É
É
ZAVKHAN
National Park • #
CHINA
Chandmani
• #
Ikh Agui
KHOVD GOV-ALTAI
É
Uliastai • #
R Otgon Tenger Uul
4KS Western Mongolia
WEE
The western aimags offer adventurous travel and exploration. Adrenalin junkies can break out the mountain bike, kayak or mountaineering gear. Start with a flight to Khovd, from where you can hire a jeep and driver for a birdwatching and wildlife expedition to Khar Us Nuur National Park. At nearby Chandmani, visit the renowned throat singers. Stop by Dörgön sum (district) for the chance to meet Megjin, a bona fide Green Tara (enlightened Buddha). Looping back through Khovd, continue northwest to the beautiful pastures and valley around Tsambagarav Uul. You could easily spend a couple of days here before moving on to Ölgii, a great place to recharge your batteries. Heading west from Ölgii, spend three to four days around Altai Tavan Bogd National Park. With proper equipment and permits it’s even possible to scale Mongolia’s highest peak, the 4374m Tavan Bogd, though a visit to the base camp and glacier is more feasible. With more time, consider doing a horse trek around Khoton Nuur. On the way to or from Tavan Bogd, stop in Tsengel or Sagsai, authentic Kazakh villages that offer a taste of life in the Wild West. A few families here keep eagles and it may be possible to meet them. From Sagsai it’s even possible to go rafting back to Ölgii. The best time to make this journey is in late September or early October, which gives you the chance to watch the spectacular Eagle Festival in Ölgii or Sagsai. From Ölgii, the main road winds northeast, passing Üüreg Nuur, another gorgeous camping spot, en route to Ulaangom. Allow a week for trekking around Kharkhiraa Gol. An experienced driver can get you from Ulaangom to Uliastai, visiting Khyargas Nuur National Park and Ikh Agui cave en route. If you arrive at Khyargas Nuur before mid-September, you’ll have a chance to see hundreds of squawking cormorants at Khetsuu Khad. From Uliastai you can take a horse-riding or hiking trip to Otgon Tenger Uul. Catch a flight back to Ulaanbaatar from Uliastai, or spend a few more days and go overland.
25 TED WOOD/GETTY IMAGES ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
Right: Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan (p69), Ulaanbaatar
JANE SWEENEY/GETTY IMAGES ©
Top: Camel herding, Bayanzag (p197)
26 Mongol Daguur B Strictly Protected Area
÷ #
÷ #
É
Ugtam Uul
É
RUSSIA
É
Baldan Baraivun Khiid
• #
É
Khalkhiin Gol
Choibalsan
• #
• #
KHENTII
• #
# ULAANBAATAR É • Khökh Nuur # _• #
Kherlen Bar Khot
DORNOD
• #
É
• #
Baruun-Urt
É
÷ # ÷ #
É
Chinggis Khot (Öndörkhaan)
É
É
• #
SÜKHBAATAR
É
Chinggis Khaan TÖV Statue
CHINA
É
Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area
Nömrög Strictly Protected Area
DORNOGOV DUNDGOV
• #
Sainshand • #
• #
Dariganga É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
Dadal
SELENGE
É
Khamaryn Khiid
3 KS Eastern Mongolia
WEE
Eastern Mongolia offers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest and some unique historical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid of tourists. In a hired jeep, head east from UB and pass the new Chinggis Khaan Statue on the way to Khökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation of the great khaan. Continue northeast, visiting the restored monastery of Baldan Baraivun Khiid and nearby sights as you travel through Khentii’s scenic countryside. There are ger camps all along this route where you can stop for horse-riding trips in the mountains. Take a break in Dadal, a handsome village with horse-trekking options and an excellent naadam. Following the Ulz Gol further east, you’ll pass pretty Buriat villages and nature reserves including Ugtam Uul. If you’re interested in meeting a shaman you may be fortunate enough to get the opportunity by asking around in this area. It’s possible to continue northeast towards Chuluunkhoroot to visit Mongol Daguur B Strictly Protected Area, a protected area for wader birds. From northern Dornod, sweep south towards Choibalsan; some routes go via the ancient ruins at Kherlen Bar Khot. The adventurous can push further east across the empty steppes to Khalkhiin Gol, a remote landscape of lakes, rivers, wildlife and historical sights. Highlights include a giant Buddha statue carved into a hillside and numerous WWII memorials. You’ll need another couple of days to visit the lush Nömrög Strictly Protected Area. From Nömrög, tackle the rough terrain in Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area to spot some truly massive herds of gazelle. The Dariganga region, with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scattered stone statues, requires two or three days. Horse trekking is possible here. If you’re in the area in early October, you’ll catch the large migration of swans at Ganga Nuur. Return to Ulaanbaatar via Baruun-Urt and Chinggis Khot (Öndörkhaan), or travel via Sainshand for a taste of the Gobi and a visit to Khamaryn Khiid monastery.
27 KHAKASS
KRASNOYARSK Tsagaannuur
É
É É
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Khatgal
• #
Mörön
• #
Erdenet Bulgan
É
ARKHANGAI
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É
É
É
Khongoryn Els
SELENGE Amarbayasgalant Khiid DARHAN• # BULGAN É UUL
_ # ULAANBAATAR
É
É
KHÖVSGÖL
• #
DZAVHAN
Bayanzag • # • #
RUSSIA
# É • Chandman-Öndör
É
DUNDGOV HOVD
Khövsgöl Nuur
É
BAYANÖLGIY
÷ #
Renchinlkhumbe
É
Wall Of ÖVÖRKHANGAI Chinggis Khan Khomyn # Ongiin • Tal Khiid
• #
É
# Baga #• Süm • Gazryn Khökh Chuluu Burd
Khankh
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É
Orkhon Khürkhree
Erdene ZuuUVS Khiid
• # • #
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Eej Khad
TÖV
É
• #
• #
Khustain National Park
É
ARKHANGAI Tövkhön Khiid
_ #
÷ #
GOVI-ALTAY • #
TÖV
ÖMNÖGOV
Yolyn Am
XĪNJIĀNG
2 KS The Big Loop
WEE
From Ulaanbaatar, head south to the eerie rock formations of Baga Gazryn Chuluu and the ruined castle at Süm Khökh Burd, stopping at Eej Khad, the Mother Rock, en route. At least three days are needed to explore Ömnögov: check out the spectacular ice canyon at Yolyn Am, the massive sand dunes at Khongoryn Els and the dinosaur quarry at Bayanzag. From here, go north to the ruined desert monastery of Ongiin Khiid, a perfect place to organise a camel trek. Leaving the Gobi, your first stop is Erdene Zuu Khiid, the country’s oldest monastery. Head west up the Orkhon valley, to Tövkhön Khiid, a monastery in pine forest, and then on to the Orkhon Khürkhree. The waterfall is the perfect place to unwind after a long trip to the Gobi, so spend a couple of nights here (and wash away the Gobi dust in the falls). On your way back to Ulaanbaatar, spend a night at Khustain National Park. This route can be combined with the Northern Mongolia itinerary.
4KS Northern Mongolia
WEE
Start week one of this trip by flying from Ulaanbaatar to Mörön. Hire a vehicle in Mörön and drive to Tsagaannuur. Drop into the TCVC here and hire a guide and horses to get you out to the taiga and Tsaatan camps. Plan for a week of travel in the area. To start week two, get a lift to Ren chinlkhumbe and trek your way over to the shores of Khövsgöl Nuur. Then walk down the lakeshore until you reach Jankhai. Spend a few days relaxing at Nature’s Door Guesthouse and then continue on to Khatgal. From Khatgal, the adventurous will make their way all the way up to Khankh on the northern shore of the lake. Alternatively, there are some gorgeous areas east of the lake in the Chandman-Öndör area. You’ll need another week to explore this region. The trip back to Ulaanbaatar goes through a remote part of Bulgan aimag to the pleasant aimag capital of Bulgan. Further east, after passing through Erdenet, make a short detour to visit the magnificent Amarbayasgalant Khiid.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
É
É
TUVA
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Tsaatan Camps
ULAANBAATAR
É
BULGAN
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Michael Kohn Coordinating Author, Ulaanbaatar Michael first arrived in Mongolia from his native California in 1997 to edit the Mongol Messenger newspaper. Three years at the state news agency gave him enough fodder for his first book, Dateline Mongolia. A second book soon followed, Lama of the Gobi, a biography of the poet-monk Danzan Ravjaa. Michael has since written about Mongolia for the Associated Press, the New York Times and other news outlets. Lonely Planet has dispatched him across Mongolia and into neighbouring countries to research Siberia, the Silk Route and Central Asia. He lives in Ulaanbaatar. Michael also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand Mongolia and Survival Guide sections. Anna Kaminski Northern Mongolia, Eastern Mongolia Having travelled widely in Mongolia and parts of Central and Northern Asia in past years for both research and pleasure, Anna was particularly pleased to sate her love of wide-open spaces by heading to parts of the country she hadn’t previously explored. This trip involved days in the saddle, in jeeps and long-distance minivans, pursuing the trail of Chinggis Khaan – a possible ancestor of hers. Major research highlights included getting to know the Tsaatan reindeer herders, as she has a particular interest in other reindeer-herding cultures – Sámi, Even, Evenk – and attending more than one naadam. In her spare time, she contributes to BBC Travel and other online publications, and roams as widely as possible; catch up with her adventures at http://cheeseofvictory.wordpress.com. Daniel McCrohan Central Mongolia, The Gobi, Western Mongolia Daniel’s first adventure in Mongolia was the result of a harebrained idea of his to cycle solo across the Gobi Desert. On a road bike. Unsurprisingly, he walked most of it. But he survived, so we sent him back to the Gobi, this time with a jeep. Originally from the UK, these days Daniel lives in Beijing and has become a bit of an expert on the Trans-Mongolian, thanks to multiple train trips between China and Mongolia. This is Daniel’s 19th Lonely Planet book. He is also the creator of the smartphone app Beijing on a Budget. You can get hold of him on Twitter (@danielmccrohan) or through his website (www.danielmccrohan.com). Read more about Daniel at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/danielmccrohan
Contributing Authors Dulmaa Enkhchuluun Dulmaa graduated from Augsburg College in Minnesota and now works to promote culturally and environmentally responsible tourism and commercial development in Mongolia. Jack Weatherford Anthropologist Jack Weatherford wrote Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World, for which he received the Order of the Polar Star, Mongolia’s highest state honour.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 7th edition – July 2014 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 299 0 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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