BOOTS

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SELECTING FOOT WEAR TYPES OF BOOTS 

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Lightweight boots are for wilderness strolls where you won't be carrying a heavy pack. Although they resemble sneakers, lightweight boots have stiffer and more durable uppers and soles to provide added support on the trail. Generally highly breathable, lightweight boots usually have uppers made of a combination of leather and fabric. Mid-weight boots are recommended for rugged terrain where you'll be carrying a 20- to 40pound pack. The uppers are usually leather or a combination of leather and fabric that's designed to provide added support and abrasion resistance. Soles are thicker and heavier for added protection. Heavyweight boots are for long hiking trips in which you'll be carrying a heavy pack over rough terrain. These boots are usually made of heavy leather for a high degree of durability, and thick, heavy rubber soles for maximum protection. A boot that can withstand excessive use during extreme conditions (carrying allot of weight, in wet conditions, in cold conditions, and rough terrain over long periods of time and miles of trail). Because of their stiffness one must allow for plenty of break-in time before the first excursion. If these boots have not been broken in before the first trip, many blisters can form, making the trip not as fun as anticipated. Most of these boots can harness crampons, which are important when crossing packed snow, ice, and/or glaciers. If you, the hiker, plan to do long sections or through hike the Appalachian Trail or Continental Divide Trail these boots would be a necessity.

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UPPERS It is designed to protect your toes, top of the foot and heel from unseen objects and rocks found on the trail. The upper can be synthetic or leather and surrounds the foot securely with padding by being laced up. The upper is the portion of the boot that provides the support for your ankles while negotiating tough terrain.      

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Full-grain leather is considered the highest grade for boot making. Drawn from the exterior of the cowhide, full-grain leather is considered the strongest, and most water-resistant. Nubuck leather is full-grain leather that has been brushed to give it a napped look. Rough-out leather is full-grain leather that has been turned inside out. This textured look more easily hides cuts and abrasions. Split-grain Leather is any layer that is not from the outside layer of the hide is considered to be a split-grain. Split-grain layers are softer, breathe better, and stretch easily. Because it is supple, split-grain does not offer the same support as that of full-grain and is more difficult to waterproof. Synthetic and Synthetic leather combinations tend to be softer, less support better breathability, difficult to waterproof. These boots are only considered waterproof if they have internal waterproof membranes, One-piece uppers, made from a single piece of leather, are considered to be superior for keeping out water. In addition, with only one seam to attach to the boot, they tend to be more durable. Two- and Three-piece uppers are generally less expensive than one-piece upper construction, but do not offer as much protection and durability, The more seams a boot or shoe has, the higher the risk for leaks and/or blowouts. Leaking occurs when water seeps through the needle-holes or spaces between the boot panels. Blowouts occur when general wear, repeated flexing or a snag causes a stitch to break and 2 panels to separate. In general, the less seams an upper has, the more water-resistant and more durable it will be. Waterproof barriers - Lightweight, waterproof barriers (like Gore-Tex@) are built into many hiking boots to enhance their water resistance. These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to extended hiking/backpacking models. Waterproof performance depends upon the type of barrier used, the materials protecting it and how well the boots/shoes are taken care of High top boots that extend way above the ankle, tend to put unnecessary stress on the Achilles tendon and should be avoided.

SOLES INSOLE: The insole comes in direct contact with the foot and can be inserted or taken out of the boot. Usually the insole acts as a cushion for the foot and can sometimes offer some arch support. MIDSOLE (shank): The midsole gives the boot stability. The duty of the midsole is to give your foot arch support, prevents being bruised by rocks and assists in absorbing the shock of each step. This also gives the boot its torsional rigidity. In other words, makes the boot stiff or flimsy. The midsole is found between the insole and outsole of the boot cemented to the shank. . In addition to support, it also ensures that the sole bends at the ball of the feet OUTS OLE LUGS: The outsole comes in direct contact with the ground. Usually made of robber, it is identified by the tread, which offers varying degrees of traction. There are also important factors in attaching these soles to the uppers. WELT: Welt describes the way that the sole is attached to the upper. A Norwegian welt is considered to

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be the best attachment method for stiffness and durability. This is the recommended method for heavyweight boots. A Goodyear welt makes for a more flexible sole and is recommended by many manufacturers for a mid-weight boot. A Littleway or McCay welt is an attachment method that relies on one to three layers of stitching of the interior of the boot. This is considered a highly durable process because the seams are not exposed to the elements, CEMENTED: This method of boot construction is the lightweight alternative to Norwegian Welt. The sole is simply glued to the upper vs. the stitched method of Norwegian Welt RAND: The rubber rand is much like a rubber band. It is the band on the outside of the boot that runs between the upper and the sole to protect the seam from H2O. HEEL COUNTER: This cups your heel to help avoid the dreaded twisted ankle, and keeps your heel from slipping up and down HEEL (SKREE) COLLAR: The heel collar is designed to absorb pressure placed on the Achilles tendon and ankle. This is accomplished by placing extra padded material above the heel counter. Sometimes this material may also be called the scree collar because it provides protection from unwanted debris that tries to find its way into your boots. FULLY GUSSETED TONGUE: A gusseted or bellows tongue is a leather piece attached to both sides of the upper and placed under the laces. It's designed to keep out water and dirt, while providing comfort for the foot when the laces are tightened. IMPORTANT BOOT FEATURES: 

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Good boots are "solid" on the bottom. You shouldn't be able to feel rocks or stones through the soles. If you can press in the bottom of the sole with your thumb, the soles are probably too soft to give your foot proper protection. If you can "twist" the soles of the boot, it's also probably too soft. Good boots provide good protection on the sides. They are heavy because they either have extra padding to protect your foot from stones, rocks, and branches you may step on which could gouge into the side of the boot. Some fabric boots have protective "welts" 1/2-inch or more up from the soles to give added protection. Good boots provide good ankle support. Grab the top of the boot and try to bend it over side-ways. Ifit bends easily, it's probably not going to provide the level of protection needed on the trail. The top of the boot should be stiff to hold the ankle in place and provide it with good support.

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THE FOOT The average foot elongates more than 1-1/2 sizes. Foot volume is also assessed by looking at the foot as a three-dimensional object. This is important in the fit process because different boot manufacturers produce footwear with varying volumes. Knowing your volume can help a fitter suggest a boot. When your feet aren't correctly supported they tend to over-pronate and flatten out, with each step leading to a host of problems, including aching feet and knees, bunions, shin splints, heel spurs and so on, moving up to the back and neck. A foot bed that fits correctly can make a world of difference.

General feet Considerations: Most people’s feet elongate 1.5 times. 80% of the people over pronate. Proper foot measurement that looks at foot length, heel to toe, heel to ball, and width both sitting and standing Consider volume in boot selection Feet tend to over-pronate and flatten out with age and unsupported use. The average inactive male person foot gives off 1/4 cup of perspiration in a 12-hour period. Black toenail results from running our toes into the ends or tops (commonly called the upper) of our shoes. Certain foot structures such as the rigid high arch, and the over pronating foot, are more likely to develop a stress fracture. Most men are longer Heel to ball versus heel to toe. Most women are longer heel to toe versus heel to ball. A more detailed description of foot problems related to symptoms can be found on the internet at: http://www.footandanklecntr.com/prob_pain_specific.php#ankle

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BOOT FITTING 1. Have your feet measured with a Brannock Device. The foot must be measured while sitting and standing to determine elongation. 2. The finger test: With the boot fully unlaced, move your foot as far forward in the boot as possible. If the boot is the proper size for your feet, you should be able to slip your index finger down inside the boot at the back of the ankle. 3. Sensory test: take off your socks and slip your bare foot into the boot. Using all your sensory powers, try to determine if any part of the boot feels tight. This is especially important in the area where the small toes are located. The bare foot test will bring all this to light. Does the boot feel too narrow on the sides in the area just behind your toes (the "ball" of the foot)? Is it too tight in the middle part of your foot on either side of the arch? If so, look for another boot. The "bare foot" test will quickly eliminate any boots that are clearly not designed for your foot. Repeat with socks. If any part of your foot feels "jammed", try a lighter, medium-weight sock on the outside. 4. Lace up the boots: Lace boots snugly not too tight. Walk around in the boots. The boot should not "break" (or crease) across the top of the toes as you stride forward. He toes should not feel jammed in the boot. Generally your heel should not slide in the heel area but rigid boots will often cause your heel to slide a little (and I emphasizes a little) when they're news due to the newness and stiffness of the sole. 5. Walk on the slant board: Walk down the incline. If your foot jams into the front of the boot and your toes feels pinched look for another pair. Walk up the incline board and stand facing uphill on the slope. This is the time to check for any protrusions that may have on the heels for example a burses or a bone spurs and heel is snug at the top of the heel counter. Next apply the "BIG HAND" to the top of the instep down towards the base of the heel to check for any loose fabric or leather, any extra fabric or leather around the ankle it will allow the person to slip forward in the boot. Use white electrical tape on the side of the boot, approximately 3 inches in length, centering the tape on the ball of the foot. Next use a ballpoint pen to mark the widest apex of the boot, and then mark the location of the center of the customer's ball of the foot. Have the customer face downhill. Push on the apex of the heel counter to see if the foot moved forward. If the heel is very soft and spongy have the person jump up and down softly; if firm at the heel you can have the person jump very aggressively. Then move around in front of the customer and relocate and mark how much the customer moved. 6. Possible causes for forward movement in a boot:  Boots too big  Too much volume  Elongation problem  Heavy pack  Improper Lacing

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ORTHOTICS AND BOOT TUNING 1. A Foot bed that offers the proper shape and support will help to reduce this Elongation factor in the Pronated feet and reduce excessive motion going on between the foot and shoe. 2. Supinated feet benefit from added comfort. 3. Here are 10 benefits derived from a supportive foot bed. a. Improved comfort b. Increased foot stability c. Improved foot circulation d. Less muscle stress and fatigue e. Better boot fit f. Extended outer sole wear g. Reduction of black toenails and blistering h. Better balance and confidence i. A longer walking strides with less steps to go the distance 4. Used to reduce excessive motion going on between the foot and shoe. 5. Vary the thickness of socks to fine tune the fit 6. A 5/6 iron neoprene slip sole material under the orthotic to decrease the volume. 7. A tongue depressor (a soft piece of foam or similar material cut in such a fashion to fit between the tongue and laces). Because this increases the volume of your foot in the boot. 8. Modify the footwear for any protrusions Participate in a boot fitting clinic by Phil Orens http://www.fitsystembyphiloren.com BREAKING IN BOOTS With the evolution of fabric Gore-Tex boots, this is not as great a factor as it used to be, but should still be performed. All-leather boots will definitely require some break-in time prior to backpacking. Wear your boots on progressively longer hikes until you're certain you can do some comfortable distance with the added weight of a backpack. Change your socks regularly during the day as they absorb perspiration. Wear a thin liner sock under your padded hiking sock. Cover hot spots with Mole skin or other covering.

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SOCKS 1. The sock serves several critical an important functions; a. It should reduce friction between the foot and the boot. Prevents blisters and hot spots b. Provides additional cushioning layer. c. Protects the boots form damaging oils and skin cells. d. Maintains thermal equilibrium by insulating from heat loss, vents excess heat, and extracts moisture away from skin surface. 2. Sock fit; it should be snug but not overly tight. 3. Sock materials a. Wool  Is hydrophilic and absorbs the moisture from your feet. And passes it to the outside.  Wool can come in course, medium, fine or superfine grades. Merino wool or lamb’s wool (first shearing),  Typically wool is used in a blend with synthetic materials b. Silk  Wicks moisture and provides a soft feel, not durable. c.      

Synthetic materials POLYESTER: has moisture wicking and quick drying properties ACRYLIC: soft feel, insulates and wick moisture well. NYLON: provides elasticity and strength. SPANDEX; elastic material in cuff Cool Max: special polyester material with excellent wicking properties. Gore-Tex: breathable membrane

4. Selecting a sock a. Select a sock with fine fibers for softness and abrasion resistance. b. High stitch density with more fibers per square inch, in a sock creates a more comfortable environment. c. Should have ample cushioning when used with heavy hiking boots. d. Look for seams that are flat or non-protrusive. e. A heel pocket allows for a better fit, and higher quality socks have a y-heel gore heel that is more anatomically correct and creates a pocket for your heel to fit in. f. Sock size is very important. If your foot is thin and narrow, you may go down one size g. Sock thickness, thinner or heavier, can be used to adjust for a better fit in footwear. h. If your feet are always cold, wool is the fiber to use. i. Hot and sweaty feet need a synthetic moisture control sock. Moisture control socks need heat from the foot to create the pressure to move the moisture away via a capillary action. Synthetic fibers on the bottom or next to the skin that repels water (hydrophobic) and fibers (hydrophilic) on the top or outside with the purpose to create a push-pull concept. j. A diabetic person's foot needs a sock that is dense, low friction factor, smooth toe seam, y-heel gore, and a sock that fits perfect. The top of the sock should not restrict the leg for proper circulation k. Liner sock; often a thin wicking sock, polyester, polypropylene, or silk is worn under the main sock to further reduce friction. It must be very smooth, soft and thin and fit snuggly.

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ADDITIONAL BOOT FITTING TECHNIQUES Tender area on top of your foot: You can reduce the local pressure if you bypass the lace rings that would guide the laces over that tender spot.

Tight over the toes: Remove the laces from the bottom rings. Tighter fit over the forefoot and looser fit over the ankles (or vice-versa): Good boots will usually have locking hooks at the bend of the ankle to grip the laces and allow you to have different tensions above and below the hooks. If locking hooks are absent or don't lock, or are positioned in the wrong place for you, take an extra turn of the laces around the hooks or through the rings. Perhaps tie a half-knot as well before you continue lacing to the top.

Stop Tongue Drift: Boot tongues can develop a habit of drifting off to one side as you walk, which can be uncomfortable. Train the tongue to lie correctly; right from the very first time you put the boots on. Do this by taking special care to make the first folds in the tongue gussets in the correct position. If the tongue still proves to be a wanderer, stitch on a button in the center of the tongue to block it's wandering. A button shaped like a "mushroom" and has a "stalk" works best. Position the button carefully so that it will not be under a lace and be pushed down into the tongue and your leg. Stitch only through the outer leather of the tongue.

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BOOT CARE Fabric boots:   

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Waterproof membranes can be vulnerable to abrasion from within if regular care is not taken to remove grit or twig particles which build up inside, especially under the insole. Fabric shells should be waterproofed A good waterproofing treatment will keep your hiking boots from absorbing too much water Clean regularly with fresh water and swill out debris from inside the boot. Most fabric boots can be washed on the outside with non-detergent soap and water to remove built-up dirt. Treat with the appropriate surface treatment products, following the manufacturers care instructions, to keep the boots clean and water repellent Boots with internal membranes cannot be re-proofed once the membrane has degraded, other than with surface repellency treatments.

Leather boots: 

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Dirt can dry and weaken leather; remove laces and foot beds-brush off excess dirt, rinse boots with water, or wipe clean with wet cloth or sponge. For hard-to-remove grime use a leather cleaner (saddle soap) or non-detergent soap, but repeated washing and drying can dry out the leather over time and make it brittle. Don't use petroleum based cleaners on leather hiking boots; they may remove necessary oils and tannins the leather needs to remain supple. Be sure to rinse the soap off thoroughly. Dry boots naturally do not use direct heat to speed the drying process. An absorbent material such as newspaper stuffed inside the boot can be used to hasten drying if necessary. Before drying wet hiking boots, remove the laces and open the boots as much as possible. Stuff loosely packed toilet paper or socks inside the boots to absorb internal moisture and wick it away When dry apply only the recommended treatment to keep the leather supple and water repellent. Apply multiple thin coats with 24 hours between first and second coats. Repeat the waterproofing process after each trip. Waterproofing and Conditioning agents will affect the color or appearance of your boots. SEAMSEAL areas that are suspect to leaking or to repair damage from abrasion. Waterproofing your hiking boots does more than help them keep your feet dry. A

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Good waterproofing treatment will keep your hiking boots from absorbing too much water and adding more weight to your feet. That excess water will also weaken the leather. Petroleum-based and animal-based (mink oil) products can over-soften leather and that leads to shorter boot life and negatively affect the support of hiking boots. Use wax or silicone-based treatments only. After you waterproof them, you'll want to condition leather hiking boots to keep them supple and ready for your next adventure. A good conditioner keeps your boots from drying out and helps maintain the tanning agents that keep leather from getting stiff Sprinkle baking soda inside of your boots to absorb moisture and odors

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CARE ON THE TRAIL  Dirt will shorten the life of your boots by working its way into their seams and the leather's pores. It will wear away like sandpaper at stitching and fabrics; form tiny colonies of mold and bacteria in leathers and fabrics; and generally erode, decay and destroy. When you're on the trail, brush away dirt and sand from your hiking boots at the end of each day. Wash away mud and other soap with water, then uses a soft nylon brush to clean out seams. If you've been traipsing through a bog, it's especially important to remove peat from your hiking boots as soon as possible. Peat has a high acid content and will eat into almost anything.

Once you've pulled your hiking boots off for the day, remove the insoles and allow them to air outside your boots overnight. Each morning before you put them back in, dust the insoles and the inside of the uppers with anti-fungal powder to help keep them fresh

Don't walk around with them unlaced. This is a sure temptation when you reach your campsite, especially if you have been hiking for a long distance and you didn't bring camp shoes. Walking around with your boots unlaced causes unnecessary wear on the inner linings and will shred your laces. Invest in a pair of sandals, camp booties, or throw a lightweight pair of old tennis shoes in your pack for letting your feet relax.

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