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Rapid LED Oceanic Biocube 29 Aurora Array Retrofit Installation Instructions Contents

Foreword....................................................................................................................................................... 1 Preparation ................................................................................................................................................... 2 Heatsink Installation ..................................................................................................................................... 3 Aurora LED Array Specifications ................................................................................................................... 4 Wiring the Aurora Puck ................................................................................................................................. 5 Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers .................................................................................................... 8 Mean Well LPC Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): ..................................................................... 8 Wiring the Driver to AC Power.............................................................................................................. 9 RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): .................................... 9 Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): .................................................................. 11 Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply................................................................................................... 11 Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply................................................................................................... 12 Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings ............................................................................................... 13 Installing the Fans ....................................................................................................................................... 14 Completion.................................................................................................................................................. 15

Foreword As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The Oceanic BC29 retrofit should be attempted by those familiar with AC power and wiring, electronics, LEDs, LED Drivers, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of some contents of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with potential hazards, dangers, or pitfalls that may occur in the course of performing this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. NOTE: These instructions are for installing the Aurora array in your hood. If you are using the kit with individual LEDs, refer to the instructions located here: Oceanic Biocube 29 Instructions

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Preparation The goal in preparation is to remove all electronics from your hood until it is empty. Simply take everything out. Start:

Finish:

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If you can save the wiring, your may be able to splice the drivers in. Not all wiring can be salvaged. In this photo, the AquaPod 24, we were able to tuck the drivers and wiring into the hood. For a BioCube 29, you’ll have to cut out all wires entirely.

Heatsink Installation The heatsink attaches to the plastic posts already in the hood via 4 screws. The screws are the large screws included with the kit. Tighten gently until heatsink is snug. Over tightening may snap them from the hood, in which case, you will have to attempt repair with super glue.

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Aurora LED Array Specifications •

The Array has 4 channels: o Blue (1000mA max) - 4 XT-E Royal Blue + 3 XP-E Blue o Color (700mA max) - 2 XP-E Green + 1 XP-E Blue + 2 XP-E Red + 1 XP-E Red-Orange o White (1500mA max) - 4 XP-G Cool White o UV – (700mA max) 4 SemiLEDs Violet UV

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Wiring the Aurora Puck In this step, we will connect the driver jumpers and terminal plugs to the array. First, insert 4 terminal plugs into the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled “Connect to second array or Plug before Applying Power.” They will snap in and be difficult to remove if fully inserted. Give them a little tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) to ensure they do not fall out.

Next, on the opposite end, insert one driver jumper into each of the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled with the colors “Blue,” “Color,” “White,” and “UV.” As with the terminal plugs, these should snap in and not fall out. Give them a gentle tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) and ensure they do not fall out.

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Attaching Aurora LED Array to Heatsink To attach the Aurora LED Array to the heatsink, we will use the backside of the array and mix Parts A and B of the thermal adhesive directly on it. Note that the thermal adhesive, once mixed, has a working time of approximately 5 minutes. If the thermal adhesive hardens before you adhere it to the heatsink, you will need to sand the backside of your Aurora LED array with fine grit sandpaper (600 to 1000) to remove the adhesive and start over. We have found using a “double cross” works well. To begin, apply Part A of the thermal adhesive to the back of the array in a cross pattern as shown:

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Apply Part B next to Part A on the back of the array in a similar pattern:

Using a paddle, mix the 2 parts together to make a thin, even layer. You do not need to spread the thermal adhesive across the entire underside of the array. You do need to cover the parts underneath all LEDs to ensure proper cooling of the LEDs in the array. Once again, after mixing both Parts A and B together working time before hardening is approximately 5 minutes.

After you have mixed the adhesive on the underside, flip the array over, place it on the heatsink in its final location, and press down firmly on the mounting holes. Do not press down on the LEDs themselves (the LEDs should not be touched, but will not die if you do touch them.) Allow the adhesive to set for approximately 1 hour before attempting to move the array. If the adhesive is not set properly your

8 array may slip and you will have to redo the thermal adhesive to ensure proper thermal conductivity between the array and the heatsink. The array will look like this on the heatsink:

Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers The Aurora LED Array is compatible with many driver choices. Contact RapidLED with any questions not covered by this document. Included below are instructions for using Mean Well LPC, LDD, and RapidLED Nano drivers. We do not recommend using any type of switches/quick connects on the DC (LED) portion of the set-up. ***DO NOT APPLY POWER TO ANY COMPONENTS BEFORE ALL CONNECTIONS AND WIRING ARE COMPLETE OR YOU RISK BURNING OUT THE LEDs IN YOUR ARRAY(S).***

Mean Well LPC Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): For LPC drivers, use wire nuts to connect the V+ from a driver to the first red wire of the driver jumper for the first channel. Then connect the V- from the same driver to corresponding black wire on that driver jumper. Repeat for the other 3 drivers and driver jumpers.

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Wiring the Driver to AC Power The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits. Strip the white and black wires of the power cord (green is ground and unused) and attach them to the blue and brown wires on the driver with the included moisture resistant wire nuts. Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120AC current. Make sure nothing is plugged in and have a licensed electrician assist you with this step.

RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Using a screwdriver, remove the cover screws from the right side of the Nano driver (the side with the potentiometer) and take off the cover exposing the green screw terminals.

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Next, we will insert the red driver jumper wire and black driver jumper into the V+ and V- screw terminals on the Nano driver. To do this, unscrew the V+ and V- terminals and remove any pre-existing wires in those terminals. Make sure not to unscrew the terminal screws too much or the screws will come out. Insert the red driver jumper wire into the V+ jack and tighten the terminal screw until the wire the terminal when lightly tugged on. Repeat with the black driver jumper wire and the V- terminal screw. If you are using an 0-10V analog controller (ie. Apex) instead of the potentiometer, you will repeat these steps for the D+ and D- terminal to remove the potentiometer and to insert the positive and negative dimming wires from the controller. Consult the controller’s documentation to identify these wires.

With all of the wires attached securely in the terminals, replace the cover on the Nano driver. Repeat these steps for the remaining Nano drivers.

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Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Make sure all 3 wires from the power cord are stripped.

Loosen the screw terminals on the right side of the SE-350-48 power supply, insert the wires into the proper screw terminals and tighten the screws. The green wire must go to ground as pictured below. The white wire should go to N and the black to L. NOTE: If you are using AC power other than 100120VAC, there is a switch on the side of the power supply that must be flipped or you will damage the power supply.

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Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Next, loosen a screw on the +V and –V areas of the power supply. The red “Vin +” wire goes to a +V screw on the power supply and the black “Vin –“ wire goes to a –V screw on the power supply. Insert wires and tighten the screws.

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Repeat with the remaining LDD drivers as pictured below.

Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finally, connect the Vout + and – wires from one LDD driver to one driver jumper per the diagram below. Repeat this for all 3 remaining LDD drivers and driver jumpers. The LDD-1000HW drivers will connect to the Blue and White channels ONLY, and the LDD-700HW drivers will be used on the UV and Color channels due to the current limitations of each channel. If you are using a PWM controller, connect your controller to the white Dim wire. Other connections might be necessary, so consult your controller’s instructions on this wiring. The LDD drivers are only compatible with a controller that outputs a 0-5V PWM dimming signal such as the Storm controller: http://www.rapidled.com/coralux-storm-led-controller/

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Installing the Fans The fans simply screw into the existing spots of the old fans. It is best to have them both blowing in or sucking out. The fans use the narrow long screws. The fan kit has an AC adapter, which plugs into the AC adapter tail, which plugs into the speed controller, which plugs into the 3-Pin Y tail, and one tail plugs into each fan. The speed controller has double sided tape to affix it to the hood. NOTE: If you measure the temperature of the heatsink to be above 110 degrees F or it is quite hot to the touch after an hour of use, relocate one of the fans to the end of the heatsink so that it is blowing down the fins of the heatsink. This will help to keep the heatsink and LEDs cool. The fan can be attached to the hood using double sided tape.

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Completion After the fan kit and wiring is complete, put the hood back together. Power on the kit and enjoy!