Presentation from the 2013 World Water Week in Stockholm www.worldwaterweek.org

©The Author(s), all rights reserved

www.siwi.org

WORKING TOGETHER FOR A SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE INDUSTRY Eva Kindgren de Boer, KappAhl

KappAhl in brief • Close to 400 stores in five countries • Shop Online • Value-for-money fashion for women, men, kids • 300,000 visitors every day • 60 million products sold every year • 4,500 employees • Net sales close to SEK 4.6 billion • Listed on Nasdaq OMX Stockholm • Founded in 1953

Production • Production with carefully selected suppliers in Asia and Europe • Offices in Hong Kong, China, Bangladesh, India and Turkey • 230 suppliers • The production offices are our extended arm in the purchasing markets

Our customers shall feel confident in the products they buy at KappAhl FUTURE •

Environmental issues

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First fashion chain in the world to gain environmental certification 1999

FRIENDLY •

Better conditions for all of the people and societies that contribute to our business

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Code of Conduct for suppliers

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Employees work daily with follow-up

FASHION •

The sustainability of our products

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20% of the range eco-labelled 2011

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Sustainably produced collections, e.g. Newbie

Our challenges! Being small or medium sized brands with high environmental ambitions and limited resources Ability to take responsibility towards the environment in production in Asia Resources to develop and use an common guideline Being able to support suppliers in the processes

• The brand INDISKA took the initiative and invited all for a meeting • We got support from the Swedish Water House / SIWI. • Swedish Water House is financed equally by the Swedish Ministry of Environment and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs • We employed a well-structured consultant, a few hours per week, Jan-Peter Bergkvist, SleepWell AB

First phase 2010/2012 During an initial two-year process, STWI developed Guidelines for sustainable water use in the production and manufacturing processes of textiles and leather. •

Developed a consensus on how water issues should be handled

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Work groups were formed

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All members had to contribute to the workshops

Board members: 7-8 meetings per years Ann Åström, Lindex Eva Kindgren de Boer, KappAhl Helene Lerner, TPC Trading Irene Hägglund, Fabric Retail Global AB Katarina Veem, SIWI Renée Andersson, INDISKA Rickard Josephson, WESC Jan Peter Bergkvist, SleepWell (draftsman) Rami AbdelRahman, SIWI (adjuct)

Founders meetings • 4 meetings per year • STWI – as a shared knowledge bank

STWI Founding Compaines

STWI Guidelines Scope • The purpose of water efficiency is to ensure that only the necessary amount of water is used in the factory, reducing the need for wastewater treatment, chemicals as well as energy and water costs. • The areas of water pollution prevention and wastewater aim to reduce negative health and environmental impacts from chemicals used in the production processes.

The Guidelines cover three areas 1. Water efficiency 2. Water pollution prevention 3. Wastewater

The three levels of the Guidelines 1. Minimum 2. Improver 3. Achiever

STWI Learn together: Increase the knowledge and experience of the founders of STWI and SIWI. Work in transparency in order to facilitate learning and to ensure integrity for the process. Continue to invite more companies to join our process Partner with research institutions to secure a robust scientific base of understanding of the issues. Invite global and national stakeholders and NGOs for an accurate and comprehensive view of the industry and its impacts

Second Phase 2013-2014 The STWI group embarked on a new phase starting in the beginning of 2013. STWI became financially independent and funded completely by the member companies. Several initiatives to test the implementation of these guidelines by member companies are underway. STWI members will test the applicability and usefulness of STWI Guidelines in their supply chains during this phase.

Towards a sustainable textile industry

www.stwi.se

Delhi suppliers

Ingela Lind, Environmental supply chain

Short facts about Lindex One of the leading fashion chains in Europe. 470 stores. Online shop in 27 European countries. We offer inspiring affordable fashion • Women’s wear, lingerie, kids’ wear, cosmetics. • Turnover Euro 671 M in 2012. • 5 000 employees  • Founded 1954 in Sweden.  • Head office in central Gothenburg, Sweden.  • Stockmann group since 2007. • Production offices in China, Hong Kong, India, Turkey,  Bangladesh and Pakistan.  • 230 suppliers. • Estimated 135 000 people involved in production.

Sustainable fashion in a life cycle perspective • 9 M sustainable garments • Members of BCI • BSCI ‐ CoC all factories • Cleaner and more resource  effective processing • Chemical control • Supplier list on Lindex.com • Increased safety in  Bangladesh factories • Pink Ribbon campaign  against cancer

Delhi project • 9 garment suppliers to KappAhl and Lindex and 7 of their dyeing sub suppliers • Location Delhi Area • 50% financial support from Sida • SIWI is co‐ordinating the project • cKinetics is implemation consultant • Time period Feb – Dec 2013

Delhi project Actions so far • Baseline assessments at all units • Workshops for stitching units and for dyeing units • Water and Energy meter installations • Wastewater and sludge tests • ZDHC test package of 11 chemical groups at 4 units • ETP evaluation/optimization • Shop‐floor awareness sessions for all workers • Technical support at site during implementations

Delhi project Examples of implemented recommendations • Use RO rejected water for flushing • Rain water harvesting • Right first time (RTF) in dyeing • Condensate recovery • Minimize boiler blow down • ETP optimization • Reuse washwater

Delhi project Project challenges : First project where we involve tier 2 suppliers – how motivate them? • We have no impact on the dyeing units • Our suppliers can select any dyers as long as they comply with our  environmental code ‐ variations in awareness and motivation to engage • Our suppliers orders often quite small at the large dyeing units • A pilot project ‐ no examples on what the units could save in water,  energy and costs How  run business and influence our suppliers to keep long term relations  with their sub suppliers

Why water projects like SWAR • We want to decrease the environmental impact from   production of our garments • Cooperation with others to reach results • Joint environmental code, similar social code • Cleaner Production project in Bangladesh • Members BCI, support better cotton farmers Gujarat • SPICES project in India  • Members BSR, Global Compact, SFA, STWI, etc Also small and medium brands with limited  resources can make changes if work together Hope we can inspire other companies

Renée Andersson, Ethics and Environment

INDISKA at a glance • • • • • • • • •

112 year old Swedish, family‐owned company Stores: 93 stores in Sweden, Norway, Finland and Iceland  incl. Shop Online (EU + Norway) Assortment:  Women´s wear (60%) and interior design  (40%) Turnover 1000 million SEK Employees: Approx 700 Head office: Stockholm, Sweden Production offices: Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur and Tirupur INDISKA co‐operates with 130 suppliers in India (70%),  China, Turkey, Italy and Greece We estimate 60‐70 000 people are involved in the  production of our products

INDISKA – Code of Conduct •

• •

We regularly visit and work in co‐operation with our suppliers for a step‐by‐ step‐improvement in order to comply with the labor laws of the production  country and INDISKAs Code of Conduct We work in co‐operation with other brands in order to make the  improvements even more sustainable INDISKA supports a number of projects in India: schooling, vocational  training, women groups, farmers/ water harvesting and Water Aid.

INDISKA – Water INDISKA works since many years with water issues in our production lines. A work  made in co‐operation: with our suppliers, their sub suppliers, in research projects,  with colleagues in our branch, with organizations, experts and authorities. The water issue is too big for a single company to handle – that is why we need to co‐ operate.

INDISKA and SWAR • 4 suppliers of home textile and garment • 14 suppliers of block printing textiles • 1 supplier of boiled wool and recycled textile  items • Out of these 19 suppliers in the Jaipur  Integrated Textile Park, only three suppliers  of home textile and garment are suppliers to  INDISKA – still, we wanted all the members  of the park to benefit of the project SWAR.

The goal for development cooperation

“Contribute to creating the conditions for poor people to improve their living conditions”

Collaboration creates value addition

Business goals

Collaboration opportunities

Development goals

Public Private Development Partnership Company

Collaboration opportunity

Sida Financial contribution max 50%

Financial contribution min 50%

Third Party Not for profit implementor

PPDP

nLocal stakeholders

National ministries

Agencies