Ozone Joe’s Water Purification Systems Residential Pool Ozonator Installation Guide Models Covered OJ-30MR OJ-45LR OJ-5LR

30,000 gallon above ground or in-ground Swimming Pool 45,000 gallon in-ground Swimming Pool 65,000 gallon in-ground Swimming Pool

The intent of this reference guide is to discuss Ozone in general, what to expect, installation considerations and basic troubleshooting ideas. It will provide a basic overview of Ozone applications when applied to swimming pools and other water needing purification. This guide will provide recommendations for installing OZONE JOE’S non-compressor driven Ozonator Water Purification Systems. In other words, the recommendations in this document are for Venturi Injector applications, or swimming pool pump suction-side installations. You will be provided install suggestions based on different filter media such as (DE) Diatomaceous Earth Filters, Sand Filters (river stone or crushed Granite), and Cartridge Filter applications. Issues you may encounter from each type filter will also be discussed. You may choose the installation method that best fits your application and plumbing constraints. We will also discuss the two primary man made ways of producing Ozone--- (CD) Corona Discharge and (VUV) Very Ultra Violet Ozone producing Lamps. First off let’s start by emphasizing that no swimming pool should be without an Ozonator. It does not matter whether you are using Chlorine, Bromine, Biquanides, Ionization, or a state of the art Saltwater Chlorine Generator for use as a sanitizer, all swimming pools should have an Ozonator installed. Ozonators allow for a significant reduction in harmful chemical usage. In the case of Saltwater Chlorine Generators, typically less salt can be used reducing potential corrosive effects. At a minimum, the operating level of the generator cell may be reduced prolonging cell life. Addition of an Ozonator will help ensure there is sufficient sanitizer to handle the unexpected bather load, or torrential downpour. Swimming pools with Ozonators are more environmentally friendly and healthier. They are also much easier to maintain. When an Ozone Joes Ozonator is installed correctly on a swimming pool, the water clarity will be great and bathers will no longer have to tolerate red burning eyes and itching skin. Pool odors will also be a thing of the past. Ozone in General Ozone is a gas which is produced in nature or by man. Ozone gas has a very short life cycle and must be produced on site. Because of this short life cycle a residual sanitizer must be maintained, but at a drastically reduced level. Ozone is thousands times more powerful than Chlorine in oxidizing organic load in water. Ozone has been used in water treatment since the 1890’s, and has been used in all International Olympics Swimming Pools for many years to include the recent Beijing Olympics. Ozonators act as a continual super chlorination or shock process without the residual affects or cost of large amounts of chemicals. In fact, since ozone is so effective at eliminating contaminants and freeing up chlorine bound as chloramines, it is not often, or at all, that a residential pool has need for chemical shock of a pool which has a working Ozonator. It is recommended however that one last shock treatment is applied just prior to installing an Ozonator, and that all chemical levels are as close to recommended as possible.

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Ozone is also the strongest agent known to man at killing water borne viruses and bacteria. Ozone causes precipitation and flocculation of small particles that are normally small enough to pass through a filter media during the oxidation process. These smaller particles become similar to ash and attach to other particles making them now large enough to be trapped in the filter. Oils are also oxidized and the same flocculation process occurs. Different types of swimming pool and spa Ozonators Note: Ozone Joe’s Residential Pool and Spa Ozonators use VUV lamp technology. Corona Discharge (CD) Ozonator: Ozone is created by passing air through a highly electrically energized chamber consisting of metal or ceramic plates spaced apart to form a gap where the electricity constantly discharges causing a corona field. One issue with Corona technology is that all elements passing through the electrical field are altered. Ambient air contains 79-80% Nitrogen and 17-19% Oxygen so not only is Ozone being formed from Oxygen, but harmful Nitrogen byproducts are also being formed. Another issue is high ambient humidity also plays a role in the electrical corona field potentially reducing ozone output. Corona Discharge systems typically require higher maintenance than Very Ultra Violet lamp systems. Check valves and injectors are more adversely affected in CD systems as well by being gummed up by the Nitrogen byproducts. Very Ultra Violet Lamps (VUV) Ozonator: Sometimes confused with UV germicidal system terminology which is a totally different technology. VUV systems produce Ozone gas when air is passed across the lamps in a chamber. This technology is similar to the Sun’s rays creating the Earth’s outer Ozone layer. One upside to this technology is that only Oxygen is altered and not Nitrogen so no harmful byproducts are created. Tests have shown that the oxidizing potential using VUV lamps actually increases in higher humidity environments. Do not look directly at operating Ozone producing lamps. What to expect after installing an Ozone Joe’s Ozonator There are several considerations as to the different stages the pool may encounter before becoming sparkling and crystal clear and odor free. Factors as how long has the water been in the pool, what sanitizer is or has been used, what is the pump cycle time, and what is the filter media will be discussed. The amazing thing with using an Ozonator on a swimming pool if it is sized correctly and working properly is how absolutely great the water clarity becomes. The pool “Deep End” regardless of depth appears to be quite shallow. The name on the drain can be identified versus just seeing the drain. The oils often found on the surface such as suntan oils causing the pool to have a dull look are destroyed and the dullness is replaced with a sparkling colorful surface similar to a diamond ring in a jewelry store under a bright light. Additionally, the “ring around the tub” so typical of suntan and other oils is addressed. The water will have a softer feel to it. Swimming pool odors are eliminated. All of these great things occur, but the time it takes to get there will vary and range from 1 day to a week and a half or so depending upon the pre-Ozone condition of the water to be purified. There are observable changes that will occur from the moment an Ozone Joes Ozonator is correctly installed and powered on. If the swimming pool has had the same water in it for a long period, and has accumulated a lot of TDS over time due to small debris passing through filters in varying sizes, you can expect the first few days to be pretty rough. The swimming pool will become very murky around days two-three and should show significant signs of clearing by day four. As the ozone flocculates the debris into larger pieces, although they were always there, they become quite noticeable. The Ozone is working its magic. This debris will eventually be trapped in the filter and additional backwashing, cleaning of cartridge filters, or cleaning and recharging DE filters will be required, so keep an eye on the filter pressure. This process is temporary and handling of the filter will be as usual after the first week.

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What to expect with different sanitizers: Note: Chlorine, bromine and Salt Chorine Generator pools will experience the above. Biquanides have additional observations.

Chlorine: Shock the pool just prior to installing an Ozonator. Keep the same chlorine dose as used prior to installing an Ozonator for the first week, then adjust amount used to maintain between .5 and 1.0 ppm available chlorine. Do not shock during the period that flocculation is in process or you will be back at the starting point. Let the Ozone do its work. Bromine: Same recommendations as for chlorine. You may find that if the reason for using the more expensive Bromine as a sanitizer was due to chlorine allergies, you may be able to revert to chlorine as the sanitizer as lesser levels are required. It is also likely that chloramines were the culprit to allergies, and chloramines should no longer be an issue. Swimming pools using Bromine as the sanitizer may require a larger sized Ozonator. Biquanides: Arch Chemicals, manufacturer of Baquacil, has tested Ozone compatibility and assures they are compatible. In addition to the observations listed above, pools that currently use Biquanides based products or pools that previously used them and have converted back to chlorine or bromine have a tendency to produce brownish colored foam. Consider this foam as proof the Ozonator is doing its job. Sometimes the foam is quite noticeable, but it does normally subside and is eliminated in a week or so. Salt Chlorine Generator: Users of salt chlorine generators state how clear and how soft the water feels. What can be expected is similar to chlorine and bromine based pools as far as the transition phase. The water clarity will actually improve. After about a week, the salt generator equipment may need to be turned down as the available or free chlorine will have increased if the settings are unchanged. You may also find that the adjustment of pH levels is not as frequent. What to expect with different filter types It is very important to keep a watchful eye on the pool filter for the first week regardless of starting water condition. Sand filters: The filter will have more debris that is large enough to trap during the first week. If sand filters are not backwashed as needed during this initial period they will eventually wind up with crevices (canyons) in the sand media which allows the now larger flocculated debris to keep re-circulating to the pool. Water under pressure has to go somewhere, and when the sand is clogged with debris, it will make a path. After the first week, the filters can be treated as usual. Cartridge filters: One must be careful during the first week with cartridge filters. The additional debris load that is now large enough to be trapped in the filter will restrict the water flow. The filter must be cleaned of this debris or it is possible that the filter will become perforated and require replacement. The water will make a path, and the path it makes in a cartridge filter is by puncturing a hole. Diatomaceous Earth DE filters: DE filters may experience perforation of a grid, or crevices of the media described above under sand and cartridge filters. The good news is that much of the smaller debris that normally would pass through other filter types have been addressed, so the flocculation is not as severe. This being the case, there may still be issues of filters clogging during the first week. One thing that should also be pointed out here is that using the bypass with venturi injection install technique in figure 2 (discussed later) will allow some of the DE to be introduced to the pool when recharging unless a cutoff valve is placed in the bypass line.

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Common Guidelines for all Installations Electrical connection considerations Note: The Ozone Joes Ozonator should be installed by a qualified electrician. Ozone Joes Residential Pool Ozonators allow for manual switching between 110/230 VAC input power. This is accomplished by a slide switch located inside the unit on the ballast. Diagram below. It is recommended that Ozone Joes Ozonator electrical cord connections be slaved to the recirculation pump wiring whether via existing timer, controller, electrical box or direct so the Ozonator is only powered on while the pump is running. Maximum operating current requirements: 0.38 amps @ 110 VAC, 0.19 amps @ 220 VAC. The green wire is grounded internally inside the unit. There is also an external grounding lug. 110 VAC units are shipped with 3 prong NEMA connectors. If connecting directly to 110 VAC via pigtail, simply cut off the 3 prong connector. If connecting to a 220 VAC application and the unit you receive has a 3 prong connector, it will be necessary to remove the end plate (end plate with power cord) to gain access to the internal ballast slide switch. Slide to 220 position and replace end plates ensuring the clear end plate gasket is reinstalled correctly. After unit is installed, and electricity is applied, the end-plate gaskets should have a blue glow to determine that the internal Ozone lamps are working correctly. This glow does not go around the entire gasket. Any glow is an indication that ozone is being produced.

Internal Switchable ballast

110

220

¼” Ozone vinyl hose connection Every Ozone Joes Ozonator system includes 6 feet of vinyl hose, one ¼” x ¼” barbed ozone resistant check valve, and 4 black plastic “C” clamps. Please note the direction of air-flow through the check valve prior to installation. Normally our check valves have a flat side and a curved side. The curved side is pointing in the direction of air flow. Flow direction will be away from the Ozonator and toward the Injector or drain plug on the pump if installing in suction side applications. You can blow into the valve to determine flow direction. Cut about a foot of the supplied ¼” hose and attach the check valve to the two hose pieces. Attach one of the remaining hose ends to the hose barb fitting on the Ozone Joes Ozonator. It does not matter whether the check valve is nearer to the Ozonator or the injector. Leave the other end disconnected at this time. It will be connected after all of the plumbing is installed, and after the suction port on the injector is tested during pump run. After verification of the injector suction, connect the remaining hose end to the injector suction input. Install the 4 supplied black clamps to secure the hoses. Using this procedure we are verifying that the injector works, and then further assurance the check valve is installed in the correct direction.

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Installation Guidelines Figure 1 Post Filter Bypass Method Using Ball Valve to divert flow through Venturi Injector Ozone Joes Ozonator OJ-15SR OJ-30MR OJ-45LR 0J-65LR

3/4 " Vinyl or hard plumb PVC Injector

Check Valve

1/4" Vinyl Hose

Heater

Pump

Filter POOL Ball Valve

Figure 1 Bypass after the Filter Using ball valve to direct water through Venturi Injector to cause Ozone suction

Figure 1 above is a suitable for all filter types, and is the recommended method if plumbing space is available after the filter. The purpose of the ball valve is to control water flow forcing its path to the injector. The injector needs sufficient flow to cause a venturi or suction action to draw air flow through the Ozone Joe’s Ozonator lamp chamber. Installations using Clear Vinyl tubing in the bypass • Installations using ¾ inch clear vinyl tubing will require the use of either 1 ½” SLP x ¾ FPT or 2” SLP x ¾ FPT reducing PVC T’s, ¾ x ¾” MPT x ¾ hose barb, either 1 2/2” or 2’ ball valve, qty 4 worm gear metal clamps. • After installation the visually observable ideal flow is obtained by adjusting the ball valve so the frothing (very fine bubbles which resemble milk) after the injector are between 12 and 18 inches prior to arranging to larger bubbles. This allows for maximum ozone to water absorption. The clear vinyl hose length should be between 6 and 8 feet in length. Ensure all hose clamps are secured. Installations using hard plumbed ¾” PVC in the bypass • When installing using hard plumbed PVC, the length of the ¾” PVC can be any length. The primary issue with this type of install is that there is not always sufficient room after the filter to add this type bypass in existing pools. If it is new pool construction, allow for this install as it is easier to control the flow versus relying upon pump backpressure as is the case in Figure 2. If there is only room to place the two PVC “T”s and ball valve side by side, this is fine. Just make sure to install this diverting bypass assembly with at least 10 feet distance to the pool return outlet. Since the flow of bubbles can not be viewed in the bypass, it is adequate to observe a fine stream of bubbles returning to the swimming pool to ascertain the mechanism is adjusted correctly. Alternatively, an air flow meter may be temporarily placed in the ozone flow line. When using a flow meter adjust the ball valve to between 4-7 SCFH. Use either 2” SLP x ¾” SLP or 1 ½ SLP” x ¾” SLP reducing PVC “T’s. If using a V3 injector (ABS material), cement a ½ x ¾ coupling to the injector ends. Cement a ¾ x ¾ SLP to the coupling and attached to the ¾ PVC bypass

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plumbing. If using a Mazzei brand injector install using a ¾ SLP by ¾ FPT coupling. Recommended injector venturi diameter for residential pools is 684 or 784. Issues that may be encountered with Figure 1 installation. • The major issue with this type of installation is not having sufficient room after the filter (or heater if installed) to install 2 T”s and a ball valve. Another issue is there is no way to visually monitor ozone frothing directly after the injector if using hard plumbing. Ozone can however be monitored at the pool return. Alternatively, an air flow meter may be temporarily placed in the ozone flow line. When using a flow meter adjust the ball valve to between 4-7 SCFH. Outside of these two issues there should be no problems.

Installation Guidelines Figure 2 Filter Bypass method Using Filter backpressure to divert flow through Venturi Injector Ozone Joes Ozonator OJ-15SR OJ-30MR OJ-45LR 0J-65LR

3/4 " Vinyl Hose

1/4 " Vinyl Hose

Hose Barb and clamp

Injector Water Flow

air/ozone Check Valve

Heater

Filter

Pump

Water Flow

POOL

Water Flow Hose Barb and clamp

Water Flow

Figure 2 Bypassing Filter with Venturi Injector. Relies on Filter backpressure to divert water through Injector

Figure 2 is often used when there is not sufficient room to plumb 2 T’s and a ball valve after the filter (figure 1). It is also used effectively with sand filters. In all filter type applications using Figure 2 method you must install the “T” located between the filter and pump before any elbows, and the “T” nearest the pool after any elbows. This provides additional differential pressure across the bypass to help ensure flow. If there is no flow after this installation it is due to insufficient differential pressure. One likely cause is the return inlet directional eyeballs are too small. If there is no pressure, remove an eyeball or two to see if the ozone flow issue is resolved. If clear ¾” vinyl hose is used it will be discolored which is normal. If there is a lot of iron in the water it will become brownish red otherwise it will normally turn a grayish white. Although Figure 2 is used for all filter types there are certain issues that may be encountered which are addressed below.

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Sand filter This installation type with sand filters normally works quite well as sand filters allow enough back pressure to cause flow to be diverted through the injector. As the filter becomes more clogged with trapped debris, and pressure rises, there will be more flow forced through the injector and the pressure differential pre-filter and post filter will provide greater venturi suction action which is still acceptable. Normally with sand filters the pressure differential is great enough between pre-filter and post-filter to cause sufficient venturi suction. If not, refer to recommendations above. One other issue is that the pump may lose prime when not running as the injector is a source of air. This does not always occur, and is related to pool water level to pump location. Cartridge filters Cartridge filters inherently don’t provide the pressure differential of pre and post filter of sand filters. If you have installed Figure 2 by installing the input “T” before all elbows and the “T’ nearest the pool after all elbows and you have no ozone flow you can try changing the pool return inlet eyeball size. If changing inlet eyeball size does not work, you will have to install a ball valve between the “T” nearest the pool and the filter (if there is a heater install the ball valve between the heater and the filter) and adjust as recommended in Figure 1. Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filter DE filters inherently don’t provide the pressure differential of pre and post filter of sand filters. If you have installed Figure 2 by installing the input “T” before all elbows and the “T’ nearest the pool after all elbows and you have no ozone flow you can try changing the pool return inlet eyeball size. If changing inlet eyeball size does not work, you will have to install a ball valve between the “T” nearest the pool and the filter (if there is a heater install the ball valve between the heater and the filter) and adjust as recommended in Figure 1. Another issue with installation Figure 2 with DE filters is some of the recharge media (DE) fed into the skimmers will return to the pool through the injector. This can be corrected by adding a ¾” ball valve into the injector bypass. Simply close the ball valve when recharging.

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Installation Guidelines Figure 3 Suction Side install Using the pump basket drain plug or the pump input plumbing to draw ozone through the Ozone Joes ozone lamp chamber Ozone Joes Ozonator

Optional air Flow Meter

OJ-15SR OJ-30MR OJ-45LR 0J-65LR

Check Valve

Optional air Bleeder kit for older filters

1/4" Vinyl Hose

Heater

Pump

Filter POOL

Figure 3 Pump Suction side installation. Ozone hose attaches to pump basket drain plug inlet to cause Ozone suction

Figure 3 is used by several Ozonator manufacturers, and can be utilized with Ozone Joes systems as well. The concept behind this install is that air is drawn through the Ozone creating chamber in the Ozonator by the suction action of the pump. This method is used in place of additional plumbing in figures 1 and 2. This type of installation is not without issues. The primary complaints by pump and filter manufacturers are erosion of pump parts and cavitations of older filters that do not self bleed. Newer pumps do not normally contain the internal metal and rubber parts as in the past. Ozone oxidizes metals and is damaging to rubber. Issues with internal clinging of debris to impellers are still noted. Newer filters contain self bleeding technology and compensate for the increased air being sucked into the system. In older filters however, an external air bleeding kit must be installed or allow the air an escape route. The air allowed from the Ozonator to the system must be adjusted to keep from excessive buildup even in newer filters. When using this suction side installation, the pool water will become clear in a shorter time frame than using the bypass installs as the debris is occurring just prior to the filter, however not all of the unused ozone passes through the filter.

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