ORNITHOLIDAYS’ TOUR TO COSTA RICA Classic Neotropical Birding 17 November - 01 December 2014 A Personal Diary

Leaders: Paul Rogers and Herman Venegas

ORNITHOLIDAYS’ TOUR TO COSTA RICA Classic Neotropical Birding 17 November - 01 December 2014 A Personal Diary The Central American country of Costa Rica is small and consequently travel time between the four main bases is never more than three hours on good roads. Transfer days usually include visits to lodges and restaurants bedecked with feeders, not only offering welcome breaks, but great bird watching and excellent photographic opportunities. The lodges are very comfortable with tasty local food and staffed by very helpful and friendly people. They are located on both the Caribbean and Pacific slopes all with different suites of birds. Exotic hummingbirds can be a challenge to identify and photograph, as on my recent November tour we saw 31 species, including the superb but local Snowcap. Trogons and tanagers challenge these avian jewels as the winner of the most exotic award but surely they lose out to the male Resplendent Quetzal we saw feeding on Wild Avocados - perhaps the most sought after avian species on this tour. A boat trip through the back waters of the River Torcales is very relaxing and here the mud banks are dotted with American Crocodiles, waders and herons, whilst Scarlet Macaws add a riot of colour as they head for their roosts against the setting sun. The diversity of wildlife experienced is extensive, and we watched a Two-toed Sloth crossing a road on a power line, huge electric Blue Morpho butterflies, Central American Spider and White-faced Capuchin Monkeys with newly born young and the memorable sight of a Sunbittern sunbathing with wings outstretched. Monday 17th November Our party meets in the departure lounge at Heathrow for our Virgin flight to Atlanta. The airplane is only two thirds full so luckily we have plenty of room to stretch out. In the USA security and passport control is easy and we have plenty of time to reach the gate for our onward flight to San Jose, perhaps more importantly there is enough time for our luggage to be transferred. Having negotiated the necessary controls without a hitch and collected our luggage our Costa Rican adventure begins. Herman our local naturalist and guide is there to greet us and Jovani our driver for the tour delivers us to our hotel within an hour of touching down. At our comfortable hotel we are soon in our rooms and ready for some much needed sleep after a very long day. Tuesday 18th November First light breaks at 05.30 and we meet up at 06.00, (our body clocks will need time to adjust), with Herman to explore the splendid extensive hotel gardens. Torch Ginger, Heliconia flowers and several orchid species catch our eyes and the musical song of a Rufous-naped Wren alerts us to the songster on a lichen laden branch. Small groups of Crimson-fronted Parakeets screech nosily overhead against a clear blue sky. A Rufous-tailed Hummingbird feeding on purple Verbena flowers adds a touch of the exotic but Tennessee Warblers are dull compared to a Rufous-capped Warbler that we all admire. Yellow-throated and Philadelphia Vireos, Summer and Blue-gray Tanagers plus a Social Flycatcher brings a most productive introduction session to an end. After a welcome buffet breakfast with fresh fruit and excellent coffee we pack up and head out through the outskirts of the capital. Climbing over the continental divide, sometimes through low cloud, we stop on the Caribbean slope at La Paz Water Gardens. Here is an organisation concerned with research, education and the rehabilitation of injured native mammals. Unsurprisingly it is a popular tourist attraction but we are early enough to have the sugar feeders to ourselves. Dozens of diminutive jewels flash within inches of our heads as they head for the feeders and aggressively protect favoured perches. It is a steep learning curve, some are easier to identify than others, Violet Sabrewings, White-bellied Mountain-gems and Black-bellied Hummingbirds are distinctive but their names are equally challenging. Is it a Green-crowned Brilliant or

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

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Green-crowned Fairy, or a Purple-crowned Fairy? Each day it will get easier – promise! In all we see 11 species including a Violet-crowned Emerald that does not visit the feeders. A Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, a species associated with dense forest understory, poses by a path long enough for photographs – a much easier subject than some of the hummingbirds. A Sooty-faced Finch hops along the path and into the restaurant, not behaviour we expected, but we take the hint and follow it and enjoy an excellent buffet lunch. Fortified we walk a forest trail, down steps and along steel walkways to the waterfall. Here Spotted Barbtails and Barred Becards are good finds and a Tufted Flycatcher perches on top of a dead snag. Optics need to be protected from the spray as we watch a Torrent Tyrannulet perched above the swirling waters. Near the end of the trail a pair of Slaty Antwrens flits through the undergrowth followed by a more co-operative pair of Redfaced Spinetails. Jovani is there at the end of our walk to collect us and we continue on our journey that turns out to be a stop start one. A Broad-winged Hawk, perched by the roadside, brings us to a halt and as often is the case one sighting leads to another and another, superb Spangle-cheeked Tanagers are at eye-level, Great Kiskadees call from a high branch and Flame-throated Warblers outshine Palm Tanagers. A band of White-nosed Coatis are busy hijacking a group of tourists, watched by a group of lazy Mantled Howler Monkeys draped over large branches. A pair of Black-mandibled Toucans call as the low cloud descends. Our final stop is the most unexpected, a Hoffman’s Two-toed Sloth crossing the road via a power cable, normally movement is very slow but no doubt sensing its vulnerability progress is quite speedy. We can clearly see the green algae, in its shaggy coat and closer inspection reveals a small youngster clinging to the female’s belly. It is a magical experience in a most unlikely situation. After the town of La Fortuna the distinctive shape of the Arenal Volcano comes into view, a single cloud hugs the summit of this, the most recent active volcano. The final approach to the lodge is on a wide dirt track where resting Common Pauraques take to the air on our approach. A Tapeti Cottontail, a forest rabbit, is an unexpected bonus on the bank as we near the lodge. Registration is speedy, we are soon in our rooms and ready for a meal, before we complete a lengthy checklist. Wednesday 19th November We awake to a dry morning but unfortunately low cloud shrouds the volcano. Ample compensation comes in the number of birds visiting the feeders immediately below a large viewing balcony. Some of the first visitors are large and noisy Montezuma’s Oropendolas followed by a real surprise, a male Great Curassow strutting through the bushes and flying onto a bird table immediately below us. Unfortunately the light is not good so perhaps our images will not do justice to his Rastafarian hairdo. Colourful visitors come and go, it is ID overload and a little over whelming. Here are Red-legged Honeycreepers, Passerini’s and Golden-hooded Tanagers, Black-cowled Orioles, Yellow-throated Euphonias, Black-striped Sparrows and Buff-rumped Warblers. Over an excellent buffet breakfast, we have a chance to relax before our next surge of new species. Low threatening clouds prompt us to don wet weather gear as we explore the extensive grounds and trails surrounding the lodge. The rain comes and goes but several strategically placed porches and verandas protect us from the worst of the weather. As soon as the rain stops the level of activity increases Chestnut-sided Warblers are numerous and Bay-headed Tanagers and Tawny-capped Euphonias show well but Tropical Kingbirds and Gray-headed Flycatchers seem unfazed by the rain. A fruiting Ficus tree is irresistible to a Crested Guan as it clumsily stumbles along the branches to reach the ripe fruit. A lone male Coati favours a ripe Papaya fruit that it expertly picks before demolishing it only a few yards from the group. A Thicket Antpitta calls constantly from the secondary forest but it remains hidden but not so a pair of Spotted Antbirds that appear in the open, albeit for a short time. An elevated position provides extensive views over Arenal Lake and the surrounding forest where a few Turkey Vultures glide effortlessly on dihedral wings – perhaps better weather is coming. A group of Bandtailed Pigeons and a flock of White-collared Swifts also raise hopes for a break in the weather. Southern Roughwinged Swallows are not as sure as they sit on the wires and indeed the rain returns but Jovani is the hero, driving us back to the lodge in time for lunch. Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

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After a short siesta the weather improves so we take to the roads leading to the lodge. In a clearing the distinctive shape of a Long-tailed Tyrant catches our eye with a Black-cheeked Woodpecker on a dead branch nearby. An Olive-winged Euphonia sings from the other side of the mature tree and a Great Antshrike puts in a brief appearance. Just a few yards away is a very vocal Thicket Antpitta but it remains hidden. The old road to the park is free of traffic and lined with secondary forest. Here a gentle walk reveals a pair of Broad-billed Motmots directly above our heads. This morning’s rain has left several puddles on the side of the road these are being used as bathing pools by Kentucky and Worm-eating Warblers as well as a Stripe-throated Hermit. Our walk finishes with superb telescope views of Red-lored Parrots on top of a bare tree. As the light fades around 17.30 we have one last treat as both male and female Common Paraques catch insects and return to the same spot, we are able to view them through the telescopes. It is a great end to a full and fruitful day despite the early morning rain. Thursday 20th November Mantled Howler Monkeys are our eco-friendly alarm clocks as they noisily defend their territory close to our rooms. From the viewing balcony we acquaint ourselves with some of yesterday’s species including the Great Curassow and some new ones including a Dusky-capped Flycatcher and Giant Cowbirds. A Semiplumbeous Hawk causes panic as it flashes past the feeders and lands in a Cecropia near enough for some photographs but alas there will be none of the summit of the volcano. Today is a transfer day so after breakfast and more excellent coffee we load the van and leave the splendid lodge to start our journey to an area further south on the Caribbean slope to Sarapiqui. En route we make several stops, the first being a return to yesterday afternoon’s location, in the hope of finding the rare Keelbilled Motmot. Motmots do appear but they are all Broad-billed, however, some compensation comes in the form of close singing Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher and an elusive Western Slaty-Antshrike. A spectacular Giant Forest Owl Butterfly and a remarkable Glasswing Butterfly are interesting diversions. On the edge of the forest we hit the jackpot when a Keel-billed Motmot perches only a few yards from two of its Broad-billed cousin, comparison between the two couldn’t be easier. An area with some mature trees and a dense understory provides a flurry of activity. A Rufous-winged Woodpecker shares a branch with a pair of Black-cheeked Woodpeckers. Antbirds are seldom easy to see and pair of Zeledon’s and a Bare-crowned is no exception. Much patience and perseverance is required before we all see both species, far easier are a family of Central American Spider Monkeys high in the canopy. Near the Arenal Dam is a very obliging Black Phoebe, a Green Kingfisher and an unspotted Spotted Sandpiper, there are no spots in its non-breeding plumage; our wader list is underway. A heavy shower persuades us to take lunch in La Fortuna at a restaurant serving “typico” Costa Rican food. The skies darken and the heavy rain continues as we gain height along the twisty roads before we reach our lodge in the mid-afternoon. We are greeted by friendly receptionists, and on the feeders a pair of Black-mandibled Toucans, a Rufous Motmot and a Shiny Honeycreeper - we haven’t even unloaded the mini-bus! The rain abates, so once in our rooms we make the most of the dry conditions and explore the grounds. These conditions are ideal for amphibians and several diminutive Strawberry Poison Arrow Frogs hop over the wet leaves; fortunately the loud calls of four Great Green Macaws overhead deflect our attention. Near a terrace overlooking the river is a pair of Red-throated Ant-Tanagers and a pair of Collared Aracaris feed on some ripe fruit at point blank range. A huge Green Iguana slumps over a tangle of roots whilst Snowy Egrets, Little Blue and Green Herons and Anhingas fly over the swollen river to their roosts and prompt us return to the lodge for dinner. Friday 21st November The heavy rain throughout the night continues until dawn but fortunately it stops as we gather by the feeders for our pre-breakfast watching. Gray-headed Chachalacas dwarf the many Clay-coloured Thrushes, Blackmandibled Toucans add a splash of colour. Clive points out a Fasciated Tiger-Heron that conveniently flies to the near bank but the show is stolen by a male Snowy Cotinga perched on the topmost branches of a tall tree.

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17 November – 01 December 2014

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After breakfast we make the short journey to the world famous La Selva Biological Research Station, a huge reserve of primary forest and a must for visiting ornithologists. As we near the centre Phil does well to spot a Tayra, unfortunately it all too soon disappears into the undergrowth. Fruiting trees near the reception attract a host of birds including White-ruffed and White-collared Manakins, Passerini’s and Golden-hooded Tanagers and a Paltry Tyrannulet, an unfortunate name for this small flycatcher. Another tree is favoured by a Chestnutcoloured Woodpecker, a Wood Thrush and a Crested Guan; it is a frantic start to our visit. Near the suspension bridge, spanning the murky swollen Rio Sarapiquí is a Gartered Trogon, while Eastern and Western Wood Peewees are next door neighbours. Several huge Green Iguanas are prominent on the tops of trees, nodding heads and enormous dewlaps make them even more obvious. Is this territorial or sexual behaviour? A large number of Collared Peccaries laze on the lawns around the research laboratories including a few small piglets. A Blue-chested Hummingbird visiting a Heliconia flower is a good find. As a visiting group we have to be accompanied by one of the centre’s guide who shows us a rufous morph of a Vermiculated Screech Owl roosting amongst a tangle of leaves, a yellow eye peers at us but much of the bird is hidden. As we watch tanagers, warblers and a pair of Keel-billed Toucans in another fruit laden tree, a Helicopter Dragonfly hovers above us - an impressive sight. It has been a rewarding morning with sunshine and bright blue skies but it is humid, so ice creams back at the centre are most welcome. Lunch is back at the lodge followed by a short rest, this means more exploration of the grounds, when Phil and John find an Antbird but John’s digital images do not match any species in the field guide. Herman solves the problem when he states that the illustrations in the field guide are not accurate and the bird is a Chestnut-backed Antbird. Digital photographs have become a very useful tool in species identification! In the afternoon we return to La Selva, again in dry sunny conditions, a pleasant change from my previous visits and take a different route. Soon we are enjoying views of a Pale-billed Woodpecker “destroying” a dead branch in its search for food. Again on open area is full of activity, a Squirrel Cuckoo is distinctive but Cocoa, Plain-brown and Northernbarred Woodcreepers offer a real challenge – thank heaven for the expertise of Herman. Amazingly he manages to find them all in the telescopes. Here also are a Canada Warbler and a pair of Fasciated Antshrikes, as we watch the male catch and devour a large Katydid, now we realise that here is a wide column of Army Ants, explaining the flurry of activity The call of a Slaty-backed Tinamou quickens our steps but it is too distant for us to hope for a sighting. Our quest is not in vain, we have views of a Black-throated Trogon only a few yards from the “concrete track”, in this reserve most of the tracks are of concrete. Our list of woodpeckers is increased with excellent views of a Rufous-winged high in a tree. We finish on a high when Herman lures a Laughing Falcon into view. This huge reserve always produces a feast of wildlife, especially when the weather has been as perfect as today. Saturday 22nd November The pre-breakfast session adds Bare-throated Tiger Heron and Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts to our list. The “owner” and conservationist who created this 500 acre reserve in 1985, Giovanna Holbrook, is there to thank us for our visit and say goodbye when we start our journey to Rancho Naturalista. It is only a few miles before we make our first stop at another small lodge that caters for bird watchers. The sun is hot and the skies clear, a chance for some raptor sightings. An impressive kettle of Turkey and Black Vultures spiral above us, soon several Gray Hawks join the throng followed by a Zone-tailed Hawk, an Osprey and finally a Hook-billed Kite. In the garden are Yellow Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher and a Gray Catbird a winter visitor that can be difficult to see and a new bird for Jovani, our driver who is very keen to learn. One of the “boys” at the lodge turns up trumps when he takes us to see a pair of roosting Spectacled Owls. They are partly hidden by leaves making photography a little difficult but it is still a real “spectacle”. Both Black and Green and Strawberry Poison Arrow Frogs on the moist dead leaves provide easier photographic opportunities.

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

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A rock strewn river is a sight for one of the tour’s “must see” birds, the Sunbittern. The habitat is perfect but “only” Northern and Louisiana Waterthrushes, a Fasciated Tiger-Heron, a Green Heron and a Gray-necked Woodrail are seen, not a bad list. It is already lunch time and we enjoy another excellent meal before starting a two hour journey over good roads to Rancho. At this higher altitude the temperature is pleasant and the humidity lower. Here at this small family run business it is quiet and peaceful. Once in our rooms we are on the balcony enjoying a splendid vista to the Irazu Volcano and the wonder of a host of hummingbirds. New species include aggressive White-necked Jacobins and the wonderful Violet-crowned Woodnymphs amongst Violet Sabrewings, Rufous-tailed, Stripe-throated Hermit and Green-breasted Mangos. It is a chance to consolidate and hone our identification and photographic skills – thank goodness for memory cards! At the fruit are Bananaquits, Blue-gray, Passerini’s and Palm Tanagers and for the first time White-lined Tanagers. We check the flowering Verbena plants for the lodge’s speciality hummingbird, the Snowcap - maybe tomorrow. After another excellent dinner we try for Mottled Owl but only hear one just above our rooms. Sunday 23rd November We awake to a wonderful clear morning with great views of the distant volcano. Over much needed coffee we watch the hummingbirds with a little more assurance than yesterday and see a Golden-winged Warbler, another splendid winter visitor from the USA. On the trail of the Snowcap we walk down the steep slope that leads to the lodge to check another favoured locality. A Mourning Warbler skulks at the bottom of the hedge and the flowers are visited by several Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds. Eventually, a much smaller hummingbird appears with a short straight bill, it is a female Snowcap; we have seen this uncommon and local species well, but of course we all want to see a male. The species is found at the same altitude as the numerous coffee plantations so it is suffering from habitat loss. After breakfast we change targets and hope for Sunbittern and drive for half an hour to the river at La Mina. It is another splendid spot, the clear waters dotted with large rocks and shaded by mature trees clinging to the steep slopes of the valley. We are only a few yards from the vehicle when we find our first bird but unfortunately it flies upstream and away, but around a bend is another. We watch this bird slowly make its way down stream, we see it wade, hop, swim, catch shrimps, preen and finally sunbathe on a sandy bank with outstretched wings revealing its spectacular sunburst patterns. Most people only catch a glimpse of this sole member of the Eurypygidae family, we have watched spellbound for one and half hours. John sums it up when he says that it is one of his best ever mornings in the field and we hardly saw another bird. Elated we return to the lodge for lunch but wait, on the Verbena is a male Snowcap in front of the veranda. Two of our “top three” in one morning, lunch is accompanied by much animated conversation about our wonderful morning. We have a short time for relaxation before heading off in mid-afternoon to the nearby Casa Turire in Turrialba but with so much to see it is impossible to relax for long. Casa Turire is a hotel complex with impressive grounds and a large lake. The fields along the approach road eventually reveal a Red-breasted Blackbird that sings from the top of a stunted bush and a group of Southern Lapwings allow close approach. On the open waters of the large lake are large numbers of Lesser Scaup. The sheltered bays have masses of Water Hyacinths over which two Purple Gallinules walk in clumsy fashion and a Least Bittern is elusive. Common Yellowthroat and Slaty Spinetails show well amongst some thorny bushes. A small group of Green Ibis feed on the well-manicured grass near the hotel, their bronzy-green plumage looking superb in the low sun. We finish the afternoon by a sheltered arm of the lake. The Ibis circle above us as they go to roost and a distant Snail Kite searches the swamp for Apple Snails. The last sighting is of a close Roadside Hawk - naturally by the side of the road. It has been a memorable day with sightings that will stay long in the memory, a good excuse for a celebratory beer after another excellent dinner. Monday 24th November After an early morning caffeine fix we check one of the “moth sheets” on the edge of the forest. There are plenty of insects attracted by the lights providing easy pickings for a number of species, including Spotted and

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17 November – 01 December 2014

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Plain-brown Woodcreepers, Yellow-bellied and Tawny-chested Flycatchers as well as a splendid Whitebreasted Woodwren. A walk through the forest is relatively quiet with some of the now familiar “hummers” visiting some feeders amongst the trees. An old Guava orchard is home to several Gartered Trogons and a Roadside Hawk this time perched in a Cecropia. Near the lodge is a Golden-Olive Woodpecker that obligingly visits the feeders after lunch. Both male and female Snowcaps pay brief visits to the” flower hedge” but they are constantly chased away by the aggressive and territorial Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds. White-collared Manakins are the aim of a short walk after lunch and John opts to stay behind to, hopefully, photograph a male Snowcap. Thankfully both sorties are successful. A small stream deep in the forest has a number of small still pools along its length, used by a number of species as drinking and bathing pools. Violetcrowned Woodnymphs are regular visitors, joined by a male Snowcap, a Purple-crowned Fairy, all constantly dipping in and out of the water. It is fascinating to watch this behaviour as they clean their feathers and possibly remove parasites. Other bathers are Olive Tanager, a Tawny-throated Leaftosser and both Wood and Swainson’s Thrushes. An added bonus is a smart male Collared Trogon just above the viewing platform. Our only disappointment is that we fail to see a calling Mottled Owl as we head for another splendid dinner. Tuesday 25th November Today we have to leave the delightful Rancho and with plans to visit Tapanti National Park on the way to the Pacific slope and Savegre. There is news that Resplendent Quetzals are scarce and difficult at Savegre, so plan B is instigated in the hope of finding this species that is at the top of everyone’s “wants list” that misses out Tapanti. We say fond farewells after breakfast and head for the hills of Cerro de la Muerte, after an hour we stop for a leg stretch at a small coffee plantation with a chance to buy some organic produced coffee at a family run farm. After Cartago we join the Pan-American Highway which is a highway only in name but the surface is good and we gain height quickly, only slowed by the occasional lorry. Reaching the Continental Divide we meet a local guide with knowledge of feeding Quetzals. Outside of the breeding season the birds feed on Wild Avocados and are hard to locate. We walk a few hundred yards down a steep road to a fruiting tree passing a pair of Ochraceous Wrens busy building a nest in a sandy bank on the way. As soon as reach the area the first bird we see is a male Quetzal perched with its back to us in a mature Avocado Tree, its long tail feathers blowing in the breeze. These extraordinary feathers are in fact elongated upper tail coverts. Soon the bird flies and perches nearer to us showing us its superb colours, by scrambling up and down the steep slopes we manage to have fabulous views of this fabulous bird, considered by some as the most beautiful bird in the world and certainly in the New World. A Black-capped Flycatcher on a wire receives scant attention, I can’t understand why! Walking back up the steep road a Black-throated Green Warbler shows well in a bush and Phil has close views of a Collared Redstart. Plan B has definitely worked. We left Rancho Naturalista with a boxed lunch allowing us a little more flexibility, a suitable “picnic spot” is the nearby Paraiso Quetzal Lodge at 2,650 metres. The balcony with its feeders attracts more hummingbirds, do we watch the birds, take photographs or eat our lunch? In fact we do all at the same time; a heavy shower favours us to eat but holding binoculars, cameras and a sandwich is not easy. Here are new species Magnificent, Fiery-throated and Volcano Hummingbirds and a pair of Black-and-Yellow Silky Flycatchers. These hummers do not have to dip in a pool to bathe they just sit on a branch and open their wings, another great sight. Our next lodge is deep in the Savegre Valley by the side of a fast flowing river. Descent is quick and we are soon in our comfortable rooms in more superb gardens on the very edge of primary forest with more feeders and more new species. Once again we have travelled in the rain, now it has stopped so we make the most of our good fortune and enjoy White-throated Mountain-gems, Green Violetears, delightful Silvery-throated and Flame-coloured Tanagers appear in quick succession. A walk by the river is pleasant if relatively quiet, although we do see American Dipper, this subspecies looking very different from those found further north. A Yellowish Flycatcher is busy catching insects from a prominent perch on a fence post.

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17 November – 01 December 2014

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At this altitude the temperature is lower and although we are on the drier Pacific slope we are in the Cloud Forest and there is gentle rain as we walk to dinner and complete the day’s checklist in the bar. Wednesday 26th November Coffee is available on the restaurant balcony at 06.00. A Pair of Gray-breasted Woodwrens search a boulder for insects and a Mountain Elaenia perches in leafless tree. A tree full of orange berries attracts a number of species including flashy Flame-coloured Tanagers and some delightful Long-tailed Silky Flycatchers, White Slaty Flowerpiercers (as their name suggest) concentrate on nectar rich flowers. Our pre-breakfast walk finishes with good views of an Emerald Toucanet. After a good buffet breakfast we explore a circular trail by the river. A Collared Redstart stands out from the dark dense undergrowth but a Ruddy-crowned Nightingale-Thrush and a Black-cheeked Warbler are much more cryptic. Higher up a mature tree a Spot-crowned Woodcreeper searches the bark for invertebrates. A moss covered branch is the spot chosen for the nest of a White-throated Hummingbird. We watch the female adding and arranging new material to the delicate shallow cup; the males do not contribute to any paternal duties. A small group of Sulphur-winged Parakeets land and feed in an apple orchard, this area is important for apple production. A Volcano Hummingbird choses a metal lamp shade for an unusual nest site. With the threat of rain we drive a short distance up the valley to Miriam’s Café where we can watch and photograph birds from a veranda as they visit the feeders. Costa Rica has lots of these eco-friendly cafes and lodges that make bird-watching very easy. Here we have frame-filling views of Acorn Woodpeckers, Yellowthighed and Large-footed Finches, Black-backed Nightingale-Thrush, Clay-coloured Thrushes and Wilson’s Warblers. Long-tailed Silky Flycatchers and the glorious Golden-crowned Chlorophonias are unfortunately a little further away. It is always pleasing to see birds at such close quarters. After lunch the clouds disperse and the skies brighten so we make an excursion to the very top of the mountain, fortunately in 4 x 4 vehicle and slowly walk back through the wonderful primary forest. All is quiet for a while but here there only a few high altitude specialists and soon we are watching one such species, Spotted Wood Quail as a small covey scratch their way up a dark slope like miniature chickens. Shirley finds another sought after species, Black-faced Solitaire, feeding on purple berries - again we enjoy excellent views. Reaching the lower slopes we encounter a small feeding flock, most are Black-throated Green Warblers in full plumage, here also are Mountain Elaenias and a Brown-capped Vireo, a new species for us. Reaching the lodge the bright sun encourages many Black Vultures to take to the air with a Red-tailed Hawk amongst them. A speeding Merlin crosses the valley; here it is an unusual sighting. We have time to freshen up and do a little packing before dinner as tomorrow we complete the last leg of our tour. Thursday 27th November This morning it is cloudy and windy with little activity around the lodge so we start our journey to the Pacific coast straight after breakfast. Soon we climb out of the Savegre Valley and re-join the Pan-American Highway before turning off and climbing a little higher into the treeless Paramo zone. Here the low cloud and chilly windy are very different from the conditions we have become used to at lower altitudes. Although the sun threatens to break through the thick cloud cover it never quite makes it, making our search for birds a little difficult. Here we are looking for Volcano Juncos and for a while it appears we are going to miss out, but we do find a Slaty Flowerpiercer and a Black-backed Nightingale-Thrush. A few calls lead us to an open area and here is a pair of Volcano Juncos feeding on the small violet flowers of Viola pygmaea, and bathing in a small puddle between the tussock grasses. We break our descent by visiting yet another small lodge with feeders and a flower-filled garden. Yet still more species of hummingbirds are added to our impressive list with Snowy-bellied Hummingbird and Longbilled Starthroat and Chris finds a Scintillant Hummingbird. A Squirrel Cuckoo has a large hairy caterpillar in its bill so maybe it is feeding young. An American wood warbler has a different look about it and once again digital images help to confirm it as a Townsend’s Warbler, a scarce winter visitor.

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17 November – 01 December 2014

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On the outskirts of San Isidro is a family restaurant in a rural setting and as expected it has more feeders. As we wait for lunch we enjoy the birds as overhead a Crested Caracara dwarfs a Pearl Kite. Cherrie’s Tanager replace Passerini’s here - the males look identical but the females are different. Speckled Tanagers, Red-legged and Green Honeycreepers feed on ripe bananas undisturbed until the arrival of a pair of Fiery-billed Aracaris. Nearby is a Crimson-headed Woodpecker and Phil points out a Tropical Gnatcatcher but perhaps the most striking bird of all is an Orange-collared Manakin. The short wait for lunch is well worthwhile as we enjoy a superb chicken lunch followed by delicious flambé bananas - it has been a most productive and tasty break. Soon the Pacific Ocean comes into view and we make good progress along the fast but quiet coast road. A Scissor-tailed Flycatcher is a bird that Clive wants to see so we stop and see one on a wire with a few flying overhead. A flooded field has many Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, including four ducklings, a lone Greater Yellowlegs and a pair of Black-necked Stilts. The last part of our journey is through heavy rain, how lucky we have been to avoid the worst of the weather when we are travelling. Our last hotel is a huge complex more like a village than a hotel but our chalets are air-conditioned and in a quiet quarter and a short walk from a restaurant.

Friday 28th November The woods surrounding our chalets are the destination for an early morning pre-amble. A pair of Black-hooded Antshrikes shows well and a small flock of warblers move through the canopy: Tennessee, Chestnut-sided and Yellow are the most obvious. The call of a trogon initiates a search in a different direction and we find a male Black-headed Trogon high above us, a second bird causes a little confusion as it is a juvenile moulting into adult male plumage but it is another Black-headed confirmed by the pale blue eye ring and blue-gray beak. The call of a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl attracts a number of mobbing warblers, Great Kiskadees and a Streakheaded Woodcreeper as we see the small owl high in the canopy. Breakfast is an impressive buffet complete with omelette chef, butwe try not to share our food with some opportunistic White-faced Capuchins. This morning we head for the nearby Carara National Park and walk the Sendero Trail, really a circular concrete path through the forest. Birds appear at regular intervals including Tyrant Flycatchers, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Eye-ringed Flatbill, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher and both Stub-tailed and Golden-crowned Spadebills. A White-whiskered Puffbird perched above the path is a little easier to see but a Slaty-tailed Trogon high in the tops of the huge trees tests our neck muscles. A Central American Agouti scurries across the path and disappears into the depth of the forest. In the heat of the day we take a short siesta after lunch and return to Carara in the middle of the afternoon and take a trail into the heart of the park. Amongst the dark roots Herman brings off a great piece of spotting and finds a Streak-chested Antpitta, these birds are not easy to see so we are fortunate that this one stays close by, its plump shape and upright stance remind us of a tall tailless thrush. In a small clearing a Blue-bellied Goldentail sings from a favoured hanging vine. A small stream is another place visited by bathing birds, Chestnut-sided Warblers are by now very familiar but not so the stunning male Red-capped Manakins and the duller greenish females. It is not as productive as Herman had hoped so we retrace our steps in the fading light, as we walk the distinctive whistling call of a Great Tinamou quickens our steps. Just by the side of the path about 20 feet up on a stout branch a bird is going to roost but a second bird slowly picks its way over the wet forest floor. We have close- up views of this most secretive species. Back by the road Jovani is waiting with most welcome celebratory drinks. Our finale is a stop by the side of the Pacific Ocean, the setting sun provides a perfect backdrop for flying Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds. It is a fitting end to another great day in fine sunny weather. Saturday 29th November Today is our last full day of the tour and we start with great views of Rufous-crowned Motmot. The imitated call of Ferruginous Pygmy Owl attracts the real thing as well as a Gartered Trogon and a Streaked Flycatcher.

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

Page 8

Then we head northwards towards Puntarenas and make a stop by the bridge over the Torcales River, a popular spot for tourists viewing the enormous American Crocodiles hauled out on the banks. It is not the crocs that we stop for but a Bat Falcon perched near the top of a pylon; we will see the crocs later. Near another bridge spanning the Torcales Estuary on the edge of the Gulf of Nicoya is a good viewing area to scan the sand banks revealed by the falling tides. Now we are in more familiar territory and scopes much more use to us than in the depths of the forest. Brown Pelicans are the largest birds but here also are Royal Terns, Laughing Gulls, a single Elegant Tern and a lone Franklin’s Gull. Waders are represented by a few Willets and Whimbrels. Magnificent Frigatebirds soar over the Pacific Ocean on thin pointed wings and Mangrove Swallows nest under the bridge, except one unfortunate individual caught and devoured by a Peregrine Falcon in the air. A Common Black Hawk soars with a group of Turkey Vultures over the mangroves. It is the mangrove swamps that we visit next, on the dry track are Common Ground and Inca Doves. The owl call again attracts the real thing which acts as an unfortunate diversion attracting mobbing birds. We also see Yellow Warblers, an American Redstart and a Mangrove Vireo. We aim to make the most of our last day and leave straight after lunch for the mangroves near the mouth of the Torcales River and hope to catch up on some of the species we missed this morning. It turns out to be a good move as we see a Turquoise-browed Motmot as soon as we get out of the mini-bus followed quickly by the impressive Lineated Woodpecker. In the mangroves is yet another Pygmy Owl but there is also Mangrove Hummingbird, Panama Flycatcher, Yellow-headed Caracara and Prothonotary and Mangrove Warblers. The latter is the chestnut headed resident race of the Yellow Warbler, surely to be split in the future. We are in good time for our boat trip along the river and through the back waters amongst the mangroves. Slowly we cruise on the edge of the mud banks with Yellow-crowned Night Herons, White Ibis, Willets and Whimbrels searching for food. All along the banks are Spotted Sandpipers, Snowy Egrets, Little Blue and Tri-coloured Herons. The star bird of this location is the American Pygmy Kingfisher, as it sits low over the water and amongst the thick leathery leaves it can be difficult to spot, so it is some time before we all have good views of this diminutive kingfisher. Green Kingfishers are much easier but not as obvious as the enormous Ringed Kingfishers. As we slowly drift back Scarlet Macaws go to roost, they are magnificent against the setting sun, a single Roseate Spoonbill is not quite as red. As some species head for their roost others are just becoming active and Black-crowned Night Herons and the amazing Boat-billed Herons appear from the depths of the bushes. The last spectacle is of hundreds of Lesser Nighthawks hunting over the swamps, an amazing sight. Before dinner we meet in the bar for cocktails and drinks and reminisce over another superb day. Sunday 30th November Three of us have one last early morning walk and see Crested Guans, White-crowned Parrots and add Blackcrowned Tityra and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet to our long list. After a leisurely breakfast we check out and start the journey to San José airport. The small park in the centre of Orotina was a stake-out for Blackand-White Owls but since one of the pair has died, the single bird only turns up occasionally. Still it is not out of our way and worth a try, alas the bird is not there but there is a Two-toed Sloth. Is this the same one I saw six years ago? We wonder how on earth it managed to get in this small park surrounded by houses and shops but having seen one cross on power wires perhaps we know the answer. At the airport we say goodbye and thanks to both Jovani and Herman who have become good friends over the last week or so. Check-in is a little haphazard but eventually all have seats assigned for our three and half hour flight to Atlanta and onwards to London. Monday 1st December A following tail wind means we make good time to Heathrow and land early. After collecting luggage we say fond farewells to new friends and start the last leg of our journey home.

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

Page 9

Acknowledgements Very many thanks are due to Herman for guiding us expertly around his native country, with great skill, excellent general natural history knowledge, a great sense of humour and excellent company. Jovani drove us safely with endless patience and was keen to join in with the group and improve his birding skills, very many thanks for being part of the group. The lodges were comfortable, the food excellent and staffed by friendly and efficient staff. Most of all thanks go to you for your punctuality, your good humour and your enthusiasm. I am sure like me you will have many fond memories of a great tour and hopefully we will meet up again in the not too distant future to relive some of these memories. E Paul Rogers Ornitholidays 29, Straight Mile Romsey Hampshire SO51 9BB Tel: 01794 519445 [email protected] February 2015

Sunbittern

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

Page 10

Itinerary and Weather 17 November

International flight to Atlanta and onwards to San José

18 November

San José to Arenal Observatory Lodge via La Paz Water Gardens. Dry with low cloud and sunny periods. Max temperature 74°F

19 November

Arenal Lodge and National Park. Showers in morning and cloudy in afternoon. Max temp 72°F

20 November

Arenal to Selva Verde via Arenal Dam. Cloudy in morning, heavy shower mid-day, dry late afternoon. Max temp 75°F

21 November

Selva Verde and La Selva Biological Research Station Fine and sunny. Max temp 75°F

22 November

Selva Verde to Rancho Naturalista. Fine and sunny most of the day, cloudy late pm. Max temp 72°F.

23 November

Rancho Naturalista, La Mina, Casa Turire. Fine and sunny all day. Max temp 72°F

24 November

Rancho Naturalista. Sunny morning cloudy in late afternoon. Max temp 72°F

25 November

Rancho Naturalista, Cerro de Muerte, Paraiso de Quetzales, Savegre. Fine sunny morning, rain at lunch and whilst travelling. Max temp 72°F

26 November

Savegre Valley. Dry with sunny periods. Max temp 65°F.

27 November

Savegre to Punta Leona, via Cerro de Muerte paramo. Dry and sunny morning heavy shower when travelling,. Max temp 75°F.

28 November

Carara National Park. Dry and sunny but humid. Max temperature 79°F.

29 November

Caldera – Rio Torcales – River boat trip. Hot and sunny. Max temperature 86°F

30 November

Punta Leona to San José via Oratina. International flight to Atlanta and onwards to London. Hot and sunny. Max temp 80°F

1 December

Late morning arrival at London Heathrow.

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

Page 11

CHECKLIST OF SPECIES SEEN DURING THE TOUR Number of days recorded (max seen on one day) 1 2h means seen on 1 day and heard on 2 other days

Major locations where species were seen

Abundance Scale

J = San Jose A = Arenal Observatory Lodge & Nat Park S = Selva Verde & La Selva Bio Research Station R = Rancho Naturalista, La Mina, Casa Turire V = Savegre Mountain Lodge, Savegre Valley P = Punta Leone, Carara National Park, RioTorcales > = on journey to above locations

1=1-4 2=5–9 3 = 10 – 99 4 = 100 – 999 5 = 1,000

Endemic species are in bold Species in italics are restricted to Costa Rica and Western Panama. Common Name of Species Scientific Name Great Tinamou Slaty-breasted Tinamou Black-bellied Whistling Duck Muscovy Duck Blue-winged Teal Lesser Scaup Gray-headed Chachalaca Crested Guan Great Curassow Spotted Wood-Quail Wood Stork Magnificent Frigatebird Neotropic Cormorant Anhinga Brown Pelican Fasciated Tiger-Heron Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Great Blue Heron Great Egret Snowy Egret Least Bittern Little Blue Heron Tricolored Heron Cattle Egret Green (-backed) Heron1 Black-crowned Night-Heron Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Boat-billed Heron White Ibis Green Ibis Roseate Spoonbill Turkey Vulture Black Vulture Osprey Gray-headed Kite Hook-billed Kite Pearl Kite White-tailed Kite2 Snail Kite Cooper’s Hawk Common Black-Hawk3 Semiplumbeous Hawk Gray Hawk Roadside Hawk Broad-winged Hawk

No of days recorded

2 1 1 1 1 4 4 2 1 3 4 5 3 4 2 3 3 6 5 1 2 1 11 4 2 1 1 1 1 1 13 13 4 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 4 3 6

Location

Abundance Scale

P 1h

S >P P

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Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

R R R

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1 1 3 1 3 3 2 3 1 2 3 4 3 1 3 1 2 1 1 3 1 2 2 3 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

17 November – 01 December 2014

Tinamus major Crypturellus boucardi Dendrocygna autumnalis Cairina moschata Anas discors Aythya affinis Ortalis cinereiceps Penelope purpurascens Crax rubra Odontophorus guttatus Mycteria americana Fregata magnificens Phalacrocorax brasilianus Anhinga anhinga Pelecanus occidentalis Tigrisoma fasciatum Tigrisoma mexicanum Ardea herodias Ardea alba Egretta thula Ixobrychus exilis Egretta caerulea Egretta tricolor Bubulcus ibis Butorides virescens Nycticorax nycticorax Nyctanassa violacea Cochlearius cochlearius Eudocimus albus Plegadis falcinellus Ajaia ajaja Cathartes aura Coragyps atratus Pandion haliaetus Leptodon cayanensis Chondrohierax uncinatus Gampsonyx swainsonii Elanus (caeruleus) leucurus Rostrhamus sociabilis Accipiter cooperii Buteogallus subtilis Leucopternis semiplumbeus Buteo nitidus Buteo magnirostris Buteo platypterus Page 12

Short-tailed Hawk Swainson’s Hawk Zone-tailed Hawk Red-tailed Hawk Sunbittern White-throated Crake Gray-necked Wood-Rail Purple Gallinule Black-necked Stilt Southern Lapwing Northern Jacana Spotted Sandpiper Greater Yellowlegs Willet Whimbrel Western Sandpiper Laughing Gull Franklin’s Gull Royal Tern Sandwich Tern Elegant Tern Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Band-tailed Pigeon Red-billed Pigeon Ruddy Pigeon Short-billed Pigeon White-winged Dove Common Ground Dove Ruddy Ground Dove Inca Dove White-tipped Dove Squirrel Cuckoo Smooth-billed Ani Groove-billed Ani Vermiculated Screech Owl Spectacled Owl Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Mottled Owl Lesser Nighthawk Common Pauraque White-collared Swift Vaux’s Swift Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift White-necked Jacobin Long-billed Hermit4 Green Hermit Stripe-throated (Little) Hermit5 Green Violet-ear Purple-crowned Fairy Green-breasted Mango Green-crowned Brilliant Magnificent Hummingbird Fiery-throated Hummingbird Long-billed Starthroat White-bellied Mountain-gem Purple-throated Mountain-gem White-throated Mountain-gem6 Magenta-throated Woodstar Scintillant Hummingbird Volcano Hummingbird7 Canivet’s Emerald8 Scaly-breasted Hummingbird Violet Sabrewing

1 1 2 3 1 1 1 2 1 1 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 7 2 2 1 5 1 1 3 6 5 1 3 1 1 2 1 2 4 4 2 4 3 4 8 4 4 5 2 3 2 1 1 1 3 1 1 3 1 4 5

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Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 1 2 2 3 1 3 3 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 4 1 3 2 1 3

R

P P >P

1 1 3 1 3 2 3 3 1 1 2 3 1 1 2 1 1 3

17 November – 01 December 2014

Buteo brachyurus Buteo swainsoni Buteo albonotatus Buteo jamaicensis Eurypyga helias Laterallus albigularis Aramides cajanea Porphyrio martinica Himantopus mexicanus Vanellus chilensis Jacana spinosa Actitis macularius Tringa melanoleuca Catoptrophorus semipalmatus Numenius phaeopus Calidris mauri Larus atricilla Larus pipixcan Thalasseus maximus Thalasseus sandvicensis Thalasseus elegans Columba livia Columba fasciata Patagioenas flavirostris Patagioenas subvinacea Columba nigrirostris Zenaida asiatica Columbina passerina Columbina talpacoti Columbina inca Leptotila verreauxi Piaya cayana Crotophaga ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Megascops guatemalae Pulsatrix perspicillata Glaucidium brasilianum Ciccaba virgata Chordeiles acutipennis Nyctidromus albicollis Streptoprocne zonaris Chaetura vauxi Panyptila cayennensis Florisuga mellivora Phaethornis superciliosus Phaethornis guy Phaethornis longuemareus Colibri thalassinus Heliothryx barroti Anthracothorax prevostii Heliodoxa jacula Eugenes fulgens Panterpe insignis Heliomaster longirostris Lampornis hemileucus Lampornis calolaemus Lampornis castaneoventris Calliphlox bryantae Selasphorus scintilla Selasphorus flammula Chlorostilbon canivetii Phaeochroa cuvierii Campylopterus hemileucurus Page 13

Stripe-tailed Hummingbird Black-bellied Hummingbird White-tailed Emerald Coppery-headed Emerald Snowcap Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer9 Violet-crowned Woodnymph Blue-chested Hummingbird Mangrove Hummingbird Snowy-bellied Hummingbird Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Cinnamon Hummingbird Blue-throated Goldentail Slaty-tailed Trogon Black-headed Trogon Baird’s Trogon Black-throated Trogon Gartered (Violaceous) Trogon10 Collared Trogon Resplendent Quetzal Ringed Kingfisher Amazon Kingfisher Green Kingfisher American Pygmy Kingfisher Turquoise-browed Motmot Rufous Motmot Keel-billed Motmot Broad-billed Motmot Blue-crowned Motmot Rufous-tailed Jacamar White-whiskered Puffbird Red-headed Barbet Prong-billed Barbet Emerald Toucanet11 Collared Araçari Fiery-billed Araçari Keel-billed Toucan Black-mandibled Toucan12 Acorn Woodpecker Black-cheeked Woodpecker Hoffmann's Woodpecker Red-crowned Woodpecker Golden-olive Woodpecker Rufous-winged Woodpecker Cinnamon Woodpecker Chestnut-colored Woodpecker Lineated Woodpecker Pale-billed Woodpecker Crested Caracara Yellow-headed Caracara Laughing Falcon Merlin Bat Falcon Peregrine Falcon Sulphur-winged Parakeet Crimson-fronted Parakeet Great Green Macaw Scarlet Macaw Orange-chinned Parakeet Brown-hooded Parrot White-crowned Parrot White-fronted Parrot Red-lored Parrot

3 1 1 1 2 2 4 1 1 1 10 2 1 1 1 1 2 4 1 1 1 5 4 1 1 3 1 3 2 2 1 1 1 3 1 3 4 3 4 4 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 6 1 2 2 3 3 2 6

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Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

R

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17 November – 01 December 2014

Eupherusa eximia Eupherusa nigriventris Elvira chionura Elvira cupreiceps Microchera albocoronata Chalybura urochrysia Thalurania colombica Amazilia amabilis Amazilia boucardi Amazilia edward Amazilia tzacatl Amazilia rutila Hylocharis eliciae Trogon massena Trogon melanocephalus Trogon bairdii Trogon rufus4 Trogon violaceus Trogon collaris Pharomachrus mocinno Ceryle torquata Chloroceryle amazona Chloroceryle americana Chloroceryle aenea Eumomota superciliosa Baryphthengus martii Electron carinatum Electron platyrhynchum Momotus momota Galbula ruficauda Malacoptila panamensis Eubucco bourcierii Semnornis frantzii Aulacorhynchus prasinus Pteroglossus torquatus Pteroglossus frantzii Ramphastos sulfuratus Ramphastos swainsonii Melanerpes formicivorus Melanerpes pucherani Melanerpes hoffmannii Melanerpes rubricapillus Piculus rubiginosus Piculus simplex Celeus loricatus Celeus castaneus Dryocopus lineatus Campephilus guatemalensis Caracara cheriway Milvago chimachima Herpetotheres cachinnans Falco columbarius Falco rufigularis Falco peregrinus Pyrrhura hoffmanni Aratinga finschi Ara ambiguus Ara macao Brotogeris jugularis Pyrilia haematotis Pionus senilis Amazona albifrons Amazona autumnalis Page 14

Fasciated Antshrike Great Antshrike Black-hooded Antshrike Western Slaty-Antshrike13 Slaty Antwren Dot-winged Antwren Bare-crowned Antbird Chestnut-backed Antbird Zeledon’s Antbird14 Spotted Antbird Streak-chested Antpitta15 Thicket Antpitta16 Tawny-throated Leaftosser Olivaceous Woodcreeper Plain-brown Woodcreeper Northern Barred Woodcreeper17 Cocoa Woodcreeper18 Spotted Woodcreeper Streak-headed Woodcreeper Spot-crowned Woodcreeper Plain Xenops Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Spotted Barbtail Red-faced Spinetail Slaty Spinetail Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Yellow Tyrannulet Greenish Elaenia Mountain Elaenia Torrent Tyrannulet Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Slaty-capped Flycatcher Paltry Tyrannulet19 Northern Scrub-Flycatcher20 Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher Common Tody-Flycatcher Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher Eye-ringed Flatbill Yellow-olive Flycatcher White-throated Spadebill Golden-crowned Spadebill Tawny-chested Flycatcher Tufted Flycatcher Dark Peewee Western Wood-Pewee Eastern Wood-Peewee Tropical Peewee Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Yellowish Flycatcher Black-capped Flycatcher Black Phoebe Long-tailed Tyrant Bright-rumped Attila Dusky-capped Flycatcher Panama Flycatcher Great Crested Flycatcher Great Kiskadee Boat-billed Flycatcher Social Flycatcher Gray-capped Flycatcher Streaked Flycatcher Tropical Kingbird Scissor-tailed Flycatcher

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 4 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 3 2 2 2 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 4 3 2 3 1 1 4 1 2 10 3 10 2 2 12 1

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Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

S

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17 November – 01 December 2014

Cymbilaimus lineatus Taraba major Thamnophilus bridgesi Thamnophilus atrinucha Myrmotherula schisticolor Microrhopias quixensis Gymnocichla nudiceps Myrmeciza exsul Myrmeciza zeledoni Hylophylax naevioides Hylopezus perspicillatus Hylopezus dives Sclerurus mexicanus Sittasomus griseicapillus Glyphorynchus spirurus Dendrocincla fuliginosa Xiphorhynchus guttatus Xiphorhynchus erythropygius Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Lepidocolaptes affinis Xenops minutus Automolus ochrolaemus Premnoplex brunnescens Cranioleuca erythrops Synallaxis brachyura Camptostoma obsoletum Capsiempis flaveola Myiopagis viridicata Elaenia frantzii Serpophaga cinerea Mionectes oleagineus Leptopogon superciliaris Zimmerius vilissimus Sublegatus arenarum Poecilotriccus sylvia Todirostrum cinereum Todirostrum nigriceps Rhynchocyclus brevirostris Tolmomyias sulphurescens Platyrinchus cancrominus Platyrinchus coronatus Aphanotriccus capitalis Mitrephanes phaeocercus Contopus lugubris Contopus sordidulus Contopus virens Contopus cinereus Empidonax flaviventris Empidonax flavescens Empidonax atriceps Sayornis nigricans Colonia colonus Attila spadiceus Myiarchus tuberculifer Myiarchus panamensis Myiarchus crinitus Pitangus sulphuratus Megarhynchus pitangua Myiozetetes similis Myiozetetes granadensis Myiodynastes maculatus Tyrannus melancholicus Tyrannus forficatus Page 15

Barred Becard Cinnamon Becard White-winged Becard Rose-throated Becard Masked Tityra Black-crowned Tityra Snowy Cotinga White-ruffed Manakin Red-capped Manakin White-collared Manakin Orange-collared Manakin Mangrove Vireo Yellow-throated Vireo Yellow-winged Vireo Brown-capped Vireo Philadelphia Vireo Red-eyed Vireo Lesser Greenlet Rufous-browed Peppershrike Brown Jay Gray-breasted Martin Barn Swallow Southern Rough-winged Swallow Northern Rough-winged Swallow Blue-and-White Swallow Mangrove Swallow Rufous-naped Wren Plain Wren21 Stripe-breasted Wren Bay Wren Riverside Wren Black-throated Wren House Wren Ochraceous Wren Timberline Wren White-breasted Wood-Wren Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Tropical Gnatcatcher American Dipper Black-faced Solitaire Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush Swainson’s Thrush Wood Thrush Sooty Thrush22 Mountain Thrush Clay-colored Thrush Gray Catbird Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher Worm-eating Warbler Louisiana Waterthrush Northern Waterthrush Black-and-White Warbler Prothonotary Warbler Golden-winged Warbler Flame-throated Warbler Tennessee Warbler Mourning Warbler Kentucky Warbler Common Yellowthroat American Redstart

1 3 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 4 1 1 2 2 1 2 1 3 1 4 3 9 5 1 6 3 4 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 2 4 3 1 1 1 3 2 1 5 2 1 13 1 1 1 1 4 2 4 1 3 3 11 1 2 1 1

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Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

R S

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17 November – 01 December 2014

Pachyramphus versicolor Pachyramphus cinnamomeus Pachyramphus polychopterus Pachyramphus aglaiae Tityra semifasciata Tityra inquisitor Carpodectes nitidus Corapipo altera Pipra mentalis Manacus candei Manacus aurantiacus Vireo pallens Vireo flavifrons Vireo carmioli Vireo leucophrys Vireo philadelphicus Vireo olivaceus Hylophilus decurtatus Cyclarhis gujanensis Cyanocorax morio Progne chalybea Hirundo rustica Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Stelgidopteryx serripennis Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Tachycineta albilinea Campylorhynchus rufinucha Thryothorus modestus Thryothorus thoracicus Thryothorus nigricapillus Thryothorus semibadius Thryothorus atrogularis Troglodytes aedon Troglodytes ochraceus Troglodytes browni Henicorhina leucosticta Henicorhina leucophrys Polioptila plumbea Cinclus mexicanus Myadestes melanops Catharus fuscater Catharus frantzii Catharus gracilirostris Catharus ustulatus Hylocichla mustelina Turdus nigrescens Turdus plebejus Turdus grayi Dumetella carolinensis Ptilogonys caudatus Phainoptila melanoxantha Helmitheros vermivorum Parkesia motacilla Parkesia noveboracensis Mniotilta varia Protonotaria citrea Vermivora chrysoptera Oreothlypis gutturalis Vermivora peregrina Geothlypis philadelphia Geothlypis formosa Geothlypis trichas Setophaga ruticilla Page 16

Tropical Parula Yellow (Mangrove) Warbler23 Chestnut-sided Warbler Townsend’s Warbler Black-throated Green Warbler Buff-rumped Warbler Rufous-capped Warbler Black-cheeked Warbler Golden-crowned Warbler Canada Warbler Wilson’s Warbler Slate-throated Redstart Collared Redstart Bananaquit Gray-headed Tanager White-shouldered Tanager White-lined Tanager Crimson-collared Tanager Passerini’s Tanager24 Cherrie’s Tanager25 Blue-gray Tanager Palm Tanager Golden-hooded Tanager Speckled Tanager Spangle-cheeked Tanager Bay-headed Tanager Emerald Tanager Silver-throated Tanager Scarlet-thighed Dacnis Blue Dacnis Green Honeycreeper Shining Honeycreeper Red-legged Honeycreeper Grayish Saltator Buff-throated Saltator Black-headed Saltator Blue-black Grassquit Variable Seedeater White-collared Seedeater Yellow-faced Grassquit Slaty Flowerpiercer Yellow-thighed Finch Large-footed Finch Orange-billed Sparrow Sooty-faced Finch Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Black-striped Sparrow White-naped Brush-Finch26 Rufous-collared Sparrow Volcano Junco Common Bush-Tanager Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager Hepatic Tanager Summer Tanager Flame-colored Tanager Red-throated Ant-Tanager Carmiol’s (Olive) Tanager Red-breasted Blackbird Eastern Meadowlark Melodious Blackbird Great-tailed Grackle Giant Cowbird Black-cowled Oriole

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Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

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17 November – 01 December 2014

Setophaga pitiayumi Setophaga petechia Setophaga pensylvanica Setophaga townsendi Setophaga virens Phaeothlypis fulvicauda Basileuterus rufifrons Basileuterus melanogenys Basileuterus culicivorus Cardellina canadensis Cardellina pusilla Myioborus miniatus Myioborus torquatus Coereba flaveola Eucometis penicillata Tachyphonus luctuosus Tachyphonus rufus Ramphocelus sanguinolentus Ramphocelus passerinii Ramphocelus costaricensis Thraupis episcopus Thraupis palmarum Tangara larvata Tangara guttata Tangara dowii Tangara gyrola Tangara florida Tangara icterocephala Dacnis venusta Dacnis cayana Chlorophanes spiza Cyanerpes lucidus Cyanerpes cyaneus Saltator coerulescens Saltator maximus Saltator atriceps Volatinia jacarina Sporophila americana Sporophila torqueola Tiaris olivaceus Diglossa plumbea Pselliophorus tibialis Pezopetes capitalis Arremon aurantiirostris Arremon crassirostris Arremon brunneinucha Arremonops conirostris Atlapetes albinucha Zonotrichia capensis Junco vulcani Chlorospingus ophthalmicus Chlorospingus pileatus Piranga flava Piranga rubra Piranga bidentata Habia fuscicauda Chlorothraupis carmioli Sturnella militaris Sturnella magna Dives dives Quiscalus mexicanus Molothrus oryzivorus Icterus prosthemelas Page 17

Baltimore Oriole Scarlet-rumped Cacique Montezuma Oropendola Yellow-crowned Euphonia Yellow-throated Euphonia Spot-crowned Euphonia Olive-backed Euphonia Tawny-capped Euphonia Golden-browed Chlorophonia Yellow-bellied Siskin House Sparrow

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Icterus galbula Cacicus uropygialis Psarocolius montezuma Euphonia luteicapilla Euphonia hirundinacea Euphonia imitans Euphonia gouldi Euphonia anneae Chlorophonia callophrys Spinus xanthogastrus Passer domesticus

Taxonomic Notes 1 Green Herons with maroon necks are now split from Striated Heron B. striatus and are now called Green Heron. 2 The New World Elanus is now considered as a separate species from the Old World Black-shouldered Kite and called White-tailed Kite 3 Common Black Hawk was formally Mangrove Black Hawk, B subtilis not now considered a full species. 4 Long-billed Hermit now a split from Long-tailed Hermit. 5 Stripe-throated Hermit is now split from Little Hermit 6 White-throated Mountain-Gem now considered a full species and spilt from Gray-tailed Mountain-Gem 7 Volcano Hummingbird no longer three species, all three sub-species occur in Costa Rica. 8 Canivet’s Emerald split from Fork-tailed Emerald. 9 Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer sometimes referred to as Red-footed Plumeleteer. 10 Gartered Trogon now split from Violaceous Trogon. 11 Emerald Toucanet often called Blue-throated Toucanet. 12 Chestnut-mandibled Toucan now lumped with Black-mandibled from South America 13 Western Slaty- Antshrikes one of the many splits of Slaty- Antshrikes of South America. 14 Zeledon’s Antbird now a separate species from Immaculate Antbird. 15 Streak-chested Antpitta used to be called Spectacled Antpitta 16 Thicket Antpitta was known as Fulvous-bellied Antpitta. 17 Northern Barred-Woodcreeper split from Barred Woodcreeper 18 Cocoa Woodcreeper split from Buff-throated Woodcreeper. 19 Paltry Tyrannulet often referred to as Mistletoe Tyrannulet. 20 Northern Scrub-Flycatcher now one of three species from split of Scrub Flycatcher. 21 Plain Wren two subspecies modestus in middle elevations and zeledoni in Caribbean lowlands. 22 All five species of genus Turdus now referred to as Thrushes and not Robins. 23 Mangrove Warbler is now treated as a sub- species from Yellow Warbler and is the resident form the other a migrant. 24 Passerini’s Tanager on Caribbean slope split from Scarlet-rumped Tanager. 25 Scarlet-rumped Tanagers has been split due to differences in voice and female plumage, those on Pacific slope are Cherrie’s Tanager 26 White-naped Brush-Finch used to be a split known as Yellow-throated Brush-Finch.

MAMMALS Hoffmann’s Two-toed Sloth Central American Spider Monkey White-faced Capuchin Mantled Howler Monkey Variegated Squirrel Red-tailed Squirrel Gray Sac-winged Bat Northern Racoon Tayra Collared Peccary White-nosed Coati Central American Agouti Tapeti Cottontail Dusky Rice Rat

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17 November – 01 December 2014

Choloepus hoffmanni Ateles geoffroyi Cebus capuchinus Alouatta palliata Sciurus variegatoides Sciurus granatensis Balantiopteryx plicata Procyon lotor Eira barbara Tayassu tajacu Nasua narica Dasyprocta punctata Syvilagus brasiliensis Melanomys caliginosus

Page 18

AMPHIBIANS AND RETILES Green-and-Black Poison-dart Frog at Selva Verde Strawberry or Blue-jeans Poison-dart Frog at Selva Verde Black Spiny-tailed Iguana at Carara N Park Green Iguana at Le Selva House Gecko at Arenal Observatory Lodge Brown Anole at Selva Verde Central American Whiptail Vermiculated Whiptail at Rancho American Crocodile on Rio Torcales Black River Turtle at La Selva White-lipped Black Turtle at La Mina

Dendrobates auratus Dendrobates pumillo Ctenosaura similes Iguana iguana Hemidactylus frenatus Norops sp Ameiva festiva Ameiva sp Crocodylus acutus Rhinoclemmys funera Kinostemon leucostomium

LEPIDOPTERA Polydamus Swallowtail Orange Swallowtail A white Sulphur An apricot Sulphur A lemon Sulphur An orange Sulphur A small low flying white A pure white A white Malachite White Peacock A Buckeye Gulf Fritillary Julia An orange-striped Tiger Red and black with yellow stripe on hind wing Black with big white bands Yellow and black stripes Zebrawing Monarch The Viceroy As Blue and black Morpho Blue and cinnamon Morpho The Long-tailed Skipper Two-barred Flasher Giant ForestOwl Butterfly Banded Peacock Sky-blue Eye-mark Butterfly Glass Butterfly

Battus polydamas Papilio thoas Phoebis trite Phoebis philea Phoebis sennae Phoebis argante Eurema daira Appias drusilla Ascia monuste Siproeta stelenes Anartia jatrophae Junonia evarete Agraulis vanillae Dryas iulia Melinaea ethra Heliconius melpomene Heliconius cydno Heliconius pachinus Heliconius charitonius Danaus plexippus Danaus eresimus Morpho peleides Morpho amathone Urbanus proteus Astraptes fulgerator Caligo eurilochus Papilio crino Mesosemia loruhama Greta oto

ARTHROPODS Fiddler Crabs on Rio Torcales boat trip Golden Orb Spider at Selva Verde Helicopter Dragonfly at La Selva Dobson’s fly at La Selva Katydids at Arenal Praying Mantid at Rancho

This list represents those birds and other animals seen by members of this tour.

© Ornitholidays Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

17 November – 01 December 2014

Page 19

White-bellied Mountain-Gem

Great Curassow

White-necked Jacobin

Fiery-throated Hummingbird

Magnificent Hummingbird

Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatcher

Collared Aracari

Gartered Trogon

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

Fiery-billed Aricari

17 November – 01 December 2014

Boat-billed Heron

Page 20

Volcano Hummingbird

Snowcap

Silver-throated Tanager

Acorn Woodpecker

Green-breasted Mango

Rufous-naped Wrens

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl

White-nosed Coati

Front Cover: Resplendent Quetzal

Ornitholidays’ Tour to Costa Rica

All photographs © C Rogers and E P Rogers

17 November – 01 December 2014

Page 21