©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to South Africa Lesotho & Swaziland...... Map ................................... 25 Top Experiences ........ Need to Know .................. If You Like ......................... Month by Month .............. Itineraries ......................... Travel with Children ........ Regions at a Glance ........

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

2 4 6 18 20 23 25 32 35

welcome to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland

If You Like... Dramatic Landscapes

Month by Month

regions at a glance

PAGE

503

Outdoor Act Eating 333 Shopping 3

Outdoor Ac Its mountaino park, beaches make Cape To location for ac cluding kitesu climbing and The beautiful make hiking a strolling along promenade a s

Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (Kaapse Klopse)

"

Cape Peninsula A spine of Cape Argus mountains runs down the Cycle Tour

peninsula from Table Mountain Held in mid-March, this spin around the Cape to Cape Point (p55). Peninsula is the world’sWild Coast The green hills largest timed cycling event. dotted with pastel rondavels More than 30,000 contest(round huts with a conical roof), ants, from serious racers rugged cliՖs and empty Indian to costumed Capetonians, tackle Table Mountain and Champman’s Peak Drive (p67).

Rainbow Experiences

Accessible Africa

South Africa, its mountains, deserts and rivers leading to vibrant cities and sprawling townships, is truly a rainbow nation in the experiences it oՖers. This vast and beautiful, troubled but developing land’s diversity is reÁected by its world-famous associations: Table Mountain, Soweto, the Big Five, Zulu culture, Robben Island, big skies, broad smiles and the Drakensberg. To get the most out of your time here, ditch any preconceived ideas about South African history and society, pack a pair of binoculars for spotting lions – and get ready for a country that stuns and surprises at every turn, from the Wild Coast’s bendy back roads to Cape Town’s lanes.

South Africa has a reputation as ‘Africa light’ – an accessible corner of the continent, relatively safe and comfortable. It does indeed shine on this front, oՖering superb accommodation and opportunities to interact with various African people and cultures; wildlife watching in terrain from bushveld to the Kalahari, at prices well below some nearby countries; and scenic spots where you can just relax and enjoy the lekker (tasty) views and hospitality, including the Cape Winelands, Indian Ocean getaways, wilderness lodges and reÀned Karoo towns.

Wildlife

Open Sp

Diverse, accessible and swarming with wildlife, the parks and reserves here are some of the world’s best destinations to see the Big Five and their prey.

Whether you h along the coast rural country o vigorating sens

Kruger National Park South Africa’s famous park has 5000 rhinos alone, and landscapes from woodland to mopaneveld (p379). Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Deep in the Kalahari, Kgalagadi is one of the world’s best places to spot big cats, from cheetahs to black-maned lions (p447). Mkhaya Game Reserve Swaziland’s stunning reserve has endangered species plus leopards, buՖaloes, elephants and an impressive rhino population (p501). Addo Elephant Park South Africa’s third-largest national

Namakwa The ro plains covering t western quarters wildÁowers (p45

ENCOUNTER PHRASEBOOK P HRASEBO HRA SEBOOK OK & HEALTHY TRAVEL Pocket-sized •H • Easy-to-use • Highlights

Looking for other travel resources?

Free State Golde and corn Àelds c rior, between the of Gariep Dam an Highlands Natura Kalahari Red du as the eye can se River snakes thro desert surrounde (p443). Southern Lesot Malealea and the the mountainous musk- and orang leys, rivers and o track villages (p4

A two-week school holiday around Easter, generally regarded as the beginning

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see population per sq km South Africa

Lesotho

Swaziland

≈ 1 person

South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland Today

Food & Drink Take a bit off black magic, a dash of Dutch heartiness, a pinch o spice and a smidgin of Malay mystery and what you get is an a array of cultures all simmering away in the potjie (pot) of culina ences that is South African cuisine. The earliest inhabitants survived on animals hunted for the food gathered from the beaches and sea, and myriad vegetab tubers. When it became necessary to have fresh vegetables an available for passing ships, the Dutch arrived and planted their garden. Their rich cuisine was infused with nutmeg, cinnamon a sia, as well as rice from their colonies in the east. Malay slav Madagascar, Java and Indonesia added to the mix, providing s ompaniments to the bland fare on oՖer. The Cape was the birthplace of South African cuisine, but Kw Natal is im ortant too: there were blacks who migrated from

Two decades after the end of apartheid, life in South Africa remains domi nated by social inequality. Central Cape Town’s mountain and beach com munities, for example, contrast with the townships sprawling across the Cape Flats, lining the N2 with shacks and portaloos. Seeing Àrst-wor wealth alongside African poverty is confronting for Àrst-time visitors et what makes South Africa an uplifting and intriguing place to visit is the issolution of divisions. Every day, millions of South Africans try to understand and respect the vastly diՖerent outlooks of eo le from other economic and racial groups. Projects aim to em ower inhabitants

ISBN 978-1-74179-800-5

9 781741 798005

south-africa-lesotho-swaziland-9-cover.indd 2

DISCOVER • Best-of • Photo-packed • Inspirational

Eating Cape Town’s m peoples have b it a range of cu ple Cape Mala th t

SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO & SWAZILAND 504 506 525 533 539 547 555

COUNTRYC & CITY COUNTRY OUNT OUN TRY & C CITY ITY ITY

Th original i i l • The original • The • Comprehensive • Comprehensive • Adventurous • Adventurous

April

Hands on Harvest At the Àrst of Robertson’s Àve annual wine festivals

Ci ’

From the Cape’s mix of coastline and mountains to expanses like Namakwa, the Kalahari and Karoo, South Africa and mountainous Lesotho feature some of Africa’s most impressive landscapes.

Namakwa wildflowers, September Buganu (Marula) Festival,Drakensberg Awesome peaks February and formations, such as the Ampitheatre make up the Whale watching, September Dragon Mountains. The view Summer music festivals, from the top of the escarpment November is reputed to be one of the world’s best (p267).

One of Swaziland’s most popular ‘Àrst fruits’ harvest festivals, Buganu celebrates the marvellous Marula. Throughout February and March, women make buganu (Marula wine), men drink the results and everyone celebrates. Swazi royals attend the three-day ceremony (p485).

UNDERSTAND

South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland Today ....... History .............................. Music ................................ Food & Drink .................... People & Culture ............. Environment .................... Wildlife & Habitat ............

Wildlife watching, July

Buganu (Marula) Festival

South Africans descend on tourist areas, including the coast and major parks, during summer school holidays (early December to mid-January). Book accommodation and transport well in advance. High season December to March.

Th M h

Top Events

"

January

Cape To Cape Town and the Western Cape are refined, developed spots, where you can sip wine and enjoy activities on beaches and mountains. Head north to the Northern Cape and North-West Province for rugged experiences in wildernesses and wildlife parks. Surfers, hikers and lovers of African culture will enjoy the Eastern Cape, bordering the mountain kingdom of Lesotho and the Free State. The latter’s golden fields lead to the Drakensberg, which stretch into KwaZulu-Natal, where beaches, wildlife parks and Zululand spread north from Durban.

Get the right guides for your trip

LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile

EBOOKS Guidebooks for your reader lonelyplanet.com/ebooks

MAGAZINE For travel stories, inspiration & ideas lonelyplanet.com/magazine

Lonely Planet in numbers 70

languages spoken by our writers

12

seconds pass between posts on our Thorn Tree travel forum

100,000,000

Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting

190+

countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

52799

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

twitter.com/ lonelyplanet

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

facebook.com/ lonelyplanet

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter

10/08/2012 12:22:57 PM

Get the right guides for your trip PAGE

40

ON THE ROAD

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

Limpopo p397

Kruger National Park p379

Mpumalanga

COUNTRY & CITY • The o riginal • Comprehensive • Adventurous

North-West Gauteng p359 Province DISCOVER Swaziland ENCOUNTER p309 p421 p483 • Best-of • Pocket-sized • Photo-packed • Easy-to-use • Inspirational • Highlights Free State KwaZulu-Natal p291

p221

Lesotho

Northern Cape

Looking for p433 other travel p460 resources? Eastern Cape p162

Western Cape Cape Town

p93

p42

LONELYPLANET.COM PAGE For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile

SURVIVAL 571 GUIDE

EBOOKS MAGAZINE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO Guidebooks For travel stories, for your reader inspiration & ideasTRIP HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine

Directory A–Z .................. 572

Lonely Planet in numbers Safe Travel ....................... 589 70Transport ......................... 12

591 languages seconds pass608 Healthspoken ............................... by our writers between posts Language ......................... 613 on our Thorn Tree Index ................................. travel forum 629 Map Legend ..................... 638

Directory

100,000,000A–Z

Lonely Planet guidebooks Accommodation sold, and still counting South Africa oՖ Ֆers a range of good-value accommodation. You’ll generally Ànd high standards, often for igniÀ Àcantly less than you uld pay in Europe or North erica. rates quoted in this for high season, te bathroom. noted in listdered by es

t Top some lodges, a guesthous Prices at th lar to, or slig those in Euro America. Ther some not-so-su and guesthouse be expensive dis ments, so be sel Lesotho Rates a rable to South A you usually get e value for money commodation i ceptions includ in Malealea, S and Roma. C tunities abo major town Swazilan to thos is a h ho

190+

countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

THIS EDITION Locked WRITTEN RESEARCHED BY 3011 AUSTRALIA BagAND 1, Footscray, Victoria %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

twitter.com/ lonelyplanet

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

facebook.com/ lonelyplanet

James Bainbridge

Kate Armstrong, Lucy Corne, Michael Grosberg, lonelyplanet.com/ UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ

newsletter 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 Alan Murphy, Helen%020 Ranger, Simon Richmond, Tom Spurling

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top recommendation

A green or sustainable option

No payment required

CAPE TOWN . . . . . . . . 42 EASTERN CAPE . . . . 162 Mtunzini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249 EASTERN KAROO . . . . . . . . 163

Eshowe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251

WESTERN CAPE . . . . . 93 Graaff-Reinet. . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Ithala Game

WINELANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Stellenbosch & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 Franschhoek . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Paarl & Around . . . . . . . . . .106

THE OVERBERG . . . . . . . . . . 111 Hermanus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Swellendam . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 ROUTE 62 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Tulbagh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Oudtshoorn . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 GARDEN ROUTE . . . . . . . . . 136 Mossel Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Wilderness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Garden Route National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Knysna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Plettenberg Bay . . . . . . . . . 148 Robberg Nature & Marine Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 151 CENTRAL KAROO. . . . . . . . .151 Prince Albert & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Gamkaskloof Nature Reserve (Die Hel) . . . . . . . . 152 Karoo National Park . . . . . 153 WEST COAST & SWARTLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Darling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 West Coast National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Cederberg Wilderness Area . . . . . . . . . 158

Camdeboo National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Mountain Zebra National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 174 WESTERN REGION . . . . . . . .174 Tsitsikamma National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Cape St Francis & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Jeffrey’s Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Port Elizabeth . . . . . . . . . . . 184 CENTRAL EASTERN CAPE . . . . . . . . . 190 Addo Elephant National Park . . . . . . . . . . .190 Port Alfred . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 AMATHOLE REGION . . . . . 200 East London . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Hogsback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 THE WILD COAST . . . . . . . . 207 Coffee Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Port St Johns . . . . . . . . . . . 213 NORTH-EASTERN HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Lady Grey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219

KWAZULU-NATAL . . . 221 DURBAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 SOUTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 243 NORTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 246 Umhlanga Rocks & uMdloti Beach. . . . . . . . . . .246 ZULULAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249

Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256 THE ELEPHANT COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Hluhluwe & Around . . . . . .257 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258 iSimangaliso Wetland Park . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Lake Sibaya & Coastal Forest . . . . . . . . . . 264 uMkhuze Game Reserve & Around . . . . . . 266 DRAKENSBERG & UKHAHLAMBADRAKENSBERG PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Northern Berg. . . . . . . . . . .270 Central Berg . . . . . . . . . . . .272 Southern Berg . . . . . . . . . .275 THE MIDLANDS . . . . . . . . . 279 Pietermaritzburg . . . . . . . .279 BATTLEFIELDS . . . . . . . . . . 284 Ladysmith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Isandlwana & Rorke’s Drift . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Blood River & Ncome Monuments . . . . . 290

FREE STATE . . . . . . . . 291 BLOEMFONTEIN. . . . . . . . . 294 NORTHERN FREE STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Parys & Vredefort Dome Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Kroonstad & Around . . . . 300

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road EASTERN HIGHLANDS & SOUTHERN FREE STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Harrismith . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301 Golden Gate Highlands National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Clarens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Ladybrand . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307

GAUTENG . . . . . . . . .309 JOHANNESBURG . . . . . . . . 312 AROUND JOHANNESBURG . . . . . . . . 337 Soweto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .337 Cradle of Humankind . . . . . . . . . . . . .343 Southern Gauteng . . . . . . 344 PRETORIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 AROUND PRETORIA . . . . . 356

MPUMALANGA . . . . .359 DRAKENSBERG ESCARPMENT. . . . . . . . . . . 361 Dullstroom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Sabie. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Graskop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367 Blyde River Canyon . . . . . 368 EASTERN LOWVELD . . . . . 370 Hazyview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .370 White River . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Nelspruit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372 Malelane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 Komatipoort . . . . . . . . . . . .376 Barberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376

KRUGER NATIONAL NORTH-WEST PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . 421 PRIVATE WILDLIFE RESERVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Sabi Sand Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393 Manyeleti Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Timbavati Private Game Reserve. . . . . . . . . . .395 Thornybush Private Game Reserve. . . . . . . . . . 396 Makuleke Contract Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396

Rustenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . .423 Sun City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .424 Pilanesberg National Park . . . . . . . . . . 426 Madikwe Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 Mafikeng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430

NORTHERN CAPE. . .433 THE UPPER KAROO . . . . . . 436 Kimberley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 THE KALAHARI . . . . . . . . . . 443

LIMPOPO . . . . . . . . . . 397 Kgalagadi CAPRICORN . . . . . . . . . . . .400 Polokwane (Pietersburg) . . . . . . . . . . 400

Transfrontier Park . . . . . . .447 Augrabies Falls National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 451

BUSHVELD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 Mokopane (Potgietersrus) & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 Modimolle (Nylstroom). . . . . . . . . . . . 404 The Waterberg . . . . . . . . . 405

NAMAKWA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park . . . . . . .457

SOUTPANSBERG . . . . . . . . 407 Louis Trichardt (Makhado) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .407 Musina (Messina). . . . . . . 409 Mapungubwe National Park . . . . . . . . . . .410 VALLEY OF THE OLIFANTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413 Letaba Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 413 Tzaneen & Around . . . . . . . 414 Phalaborwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Acornhoek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420

LESOTHO . . . . . . . . . 460 Maseru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Northern Lesotho . . . . . . . .472 Northeastern & Central Highlands . . . . . . . 474 Southern Lesotho . . . . . . .479

SWAZILAND . . . . . . .483 Mbabane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .487 Ezulwini Valley . . . . . . . . . 490 Malkerns Valley. . . . . . . . . 494 Manzini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495 Northern Swaziland . . . . . .497 Eastern Swaziland . . . . . . 499 Southern Swaziland . . . . . 502

› South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Lions and red Kalahari sands (p447)

Gobabis

WINDHOEK

Tropic of Capricorn

BOTSWANA G Mariental

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Kanye

Tshabong

NORTH-WEST PROVINCE

Kalahari

Keetmanshoop

Vryburg

Namakwa Vivid spring flowers carpet open spaces (p454)

NAMIBIA

Hotazel Kuruman

28ºS

Richtersveld National Park Alexander Bay

r

ve

l aa

|Ai-|Ais National Park

Ri

V

F

Upington

Oran

ge

Noordoewer

SOUTH AFRICA

Augrabies Falls National Park

R (Senqu) iver

Kimberley

B

Or

an

Port Nolloth Prieska

ive )R

qu

A AKW

en

M NA

ge (S

Springbok

NORTHERN CAPE

r

30ºS

De Aar Carnarvon

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Bitterfontein

Middelburg Calvinia

St Helena Bay

Karoo National Park

Graaff-Reinet Beaufort West

Camdeboo National Park

ts R

fan

Oli

Winelands Cape Dutch estates produce world-class wines (p96)

Cederberg Wilderness Area

iver

Saldanha

V&A Waterfront Chic boutiques and heritage buildings (p53)

WESTERN CAPE

Oudtshoorn Ceres Tsitsikamma Wilderness Worcester George National Park National Park Paarl Montagu Mossel Bay Stellenbosch Knysna Plettenberg CAPE TOWN Swellendam Bay Cape Table Mountain Hermanus St Francis De Hoop

34ºS

National Park

Table Mountain Cape Town's iconic flat-topped mountain (p51) 16ºE

02-destination-map-sls9.indd 4

18ºE

Nature False Bredasdorp Reserve Bay Cape Agulhas 20ºE

22ºE

B

24ºE

10/08/2012 8:28:59 AM

Top Experiences › ZIMBABWE

Mapungubwe National Park Baboons, baobabs and the Big Five (p410) r

op

mp

Li

Ellisras

Thohoyandou

Tropic of Capricorn Polokwane Great Limpopo Transfrontier (Pietersburg) Park

LIMPOPO

Pilanesberg National Lobatse Park

ve r Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve s t n Sabie fa

i Ol

Sun City

Soweto Lichtenburg

Nelspruit

Johannesburg

GAUTENG

Potchefstroom

Pigg's Peak

Ermelo Piet Retief

Highlands National Park

r ve Ri MASERU

(C

LESOTHO

o

Mohale's Hoek

M

KWAZULU-NATAL

Golden Gate Highlands NP Sandstone outcroppings and shimmering grasslands (p303)

Durban Amanzimtoti

Port Shepstone

Queenstown

Mkambati Nature Reserve

Drakensberg Green slopes lead to misty peaks (p267)

Port St Johns

Hluleka ea Nature Reserve tK ei Dwesa Ri ver Nature Reserve

Gr

Bhisho

Grahamstown

Addo Elephant National Park

Clarens An arty, laid-back country getaway (p304)

Kokstad

Mthatha

Lesotho Adventures at remote mountain bases (p460)

East London

ELEVATION

Port Alfred

The Wild Coast Empty beaches and Xhosa villages (p207)

Port Elizabeth

28ºE

02-destination-map-sls9.indd 5

2400m 1800m 1200m 600m

INDIAN OCEAN

Addo Elephant National Park More than 400 African elephants (p190) 26ºE

Mtubatuba Empangeni Richards Bay

Pietermaritzburg

EASTERN CAPE

Mountain Zebra National Park

iSimangaliso Wetland Park Five ecosystems containing diverse wildlife (p260)

uKhahlambaDrakensberg Park

Aliwal North

Cradock

Sodwana Bay National Park

Zululand

Estcourt

s

rg

ale

Ladysmith

en

Mafeteng

r ka

iSimangaliso Wetland Park Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park Dundee

ak

be

n)

do

e

oh

Harrismith

Clarens

Dr

BLOEMFONTEIN Thaba 'Nchu

Vryheid

Bohlakong

Kosi Bay Nature Reserve

Hlathikulu Golela

Volksrust

Kroonstad Golden Gate

Senekal

Blyde River Canyon Viewpoints dot this vast natural landmark (p368)

Manzini

SWAZILAND

Standerton

Welkom

MAPUTO

MBABANE

Klerksdorp

FREE STATE

Macia Xai-Xai

Komatipoort

MPUMALANGA

Vereeniging

Bloemhof

Kruger National Park This epic park has animals galore (p379)

Kruger National Park

PRETORIA Middelburg

Zeerust Rustenburg Mafikeng

Inhambane

Massingir

Ri

GABORONE

Limpopo National Park

Phalaborwa

Marakele National Park

MOZAMBIQUE

r ive o R

o

Louis Trichardt (Makhado)

op

ve Ri

Banhine National Park

mp Li

Gonarezhou National Park Mapungubwe Musina NP

0

0 0

30ºE

32ºE

150 km 100 miles

34ºE

36ºE

10/08/2012 8:29:06 AM

Michael Grosberg EasternC ape Early in his career Michael found his way to Durban, where he investigated and wrote about political violence, prison abuse and other issues, and helped train local government officials in the province of KwaZulu-Natal while still finding time to travel all over the country. In addition to his Lonely Planet work, he’s returned to the country for magazine assignments. Michael, a reformed academic, is based in Brooklyn, New York City, and has worked on nearly two dozen Lonely Planet books.

Alan Murphy Free State, Mpumalanga, Kruger National Park, Limpopo, History, Environment, Wildlife & Habitat Alan distinctly remembers bouncing around in the rear of a bakkie (pick-up truck) from Johannesburg airport sometime in the late 90s on his first trip to South Africa. Since then he has been back numerous times, both working for Lonely Planet and to pursue one of his favourite activities – wildlife-watching. Alan loves to spend time in this contradictory and beautiful country, especially around Kruger.

Helen Ranger Food & Drink, People & Culture, Music For a Lonely Planet author to dislocate a hip on the way to research a guidebook is pretty devastating! But while she was delayed by a few months, nothing can really keep Helen away from South Africa. Table Mountain beckons, and she can’t resist investigating all that’s new since her last visit. Helen has worked on several Africa titles for Lonely Planet, including the previous editions of South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland and Cape Town. You can follow Helen on twitter at @helenranger.

Simon Richmond Cape Town Simon has been hooked on Cape Town since first visiting in 2001 to research Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland guide and the Cape Town guide. He’s returned for every edition of both guides since, exploring practically every corner of the Cape. An award-winning writer and photographer, Simon has also written scores of other titles for Lonely Planet and other publishers, as well as contributed features to many travel magazines and newspapers around the world. Follow his travels on his website www.simonrichmond.com.

Tom Spurling Gauteng,L esotho Tom first experienced South Africa while working on Limpopo’s shortest-lived newspaper. Returning for this guidebook, he tackled the off-road mountains of Lesotho in a ‘sporty’ roadster and was often overtaken by blanket-clad horsemen. In Gauteng, he moved faster, pacing city streets in living colour and at full speed. Jo’burg is his new favourite city, shortly followed by Perth, his new hometown, where he lives with his wife and two kids. This is the fifth continent he has researched for Lonely Planet.

Contributing Author Dr David Lukas wrote the original Wildlife & Habitat chapter. He is an avid student of natural history who has travelled widely to study tropical ecosystems in locations such as Borneo and the Amazon. He has also spent many years leading natural-history tours to all corners of Costa Rica, Belize and Guatemala. He also wrote wildlife chapters for the Lonely Planet Kenya, Tanzania and East Africa guides.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS James Bainbridge Coordinating Author, North-West Province, Northern Cape Based in Cape Town, James has travelled the length and breadth of South Africa for guidebooks and magazine assignments. He first visited the country in 2008; since then he has met a lovely Capetonian lady, moved to the Cape from London and got married on an organic wine farm. While researching this book, the Northern Cape’s wildernesses and North-West Province’s wildlife parks were a revelation for James – he loved the sense of space and freedom in the Karoo, Kalahari and Namakwa. When he’s not sloping around the Winelands, James contributes to other Lonely Planet guides, including Turkey and Morocco. Read more about James at: lonelyplanet.com/members/james_bains

Kate Armstrong KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland Kate was bitten by the African bug when she lived in Mozambique, and returns frequently to Southern Africa. For this edition she tackled the region solo in her 2WD hatchback. Memorable moments include her ‘altercation’ with a bull elephant, her first sip of Marula brew, and learning, while on an isolated pass, that it’s still possible to lock one’s keys in a car. Kate loves the Zulu culture (plus leopards, and giraffes). She is continually humbled by the generosity of the local people. For more, see www.katearmstrong.com.au

Read more about Kate at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/kate_armstrong

Lucy Corne Western Cape Since she first visited South Africa in 2002, Lucy has been hooked and has returned on six occasions, spending time in more than 200 towns across the country. Despite having explored the Western Cape in depth before, she still managed a few firsts while researching this guide, including the vertiginous trip to Die Hel, discovering the delectable pinot noirs of Elgin and finding the offbeat Western Cape in the mission villages of Wupperthal, Elim and Genadendal. Lucy currently lives in Cape Town where she writes on travel and beer. Check out Lucy’s website at www.lucycorne.com. Read more about Lucy at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/lucycorne

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 9th edition – November 2012 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 800 5 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

25

Itineraries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

ZIMBABWE

Limpopo MOZAMBIQUE

BOTSWANA

Private Wildlife Reserves

Madikwe Game Reserve

÷ #

÷ #

# Kruger ÷ National Park

Pilanesberg National Park

÷ #

# PRETORIA _ North-West Province

Johannesburg • # Gauteng

Malolotja

# Nature Reserve ÷ MBABANE _ # SWAZILAND # Ezulwini Valley • ÷ Mkhaya # Game Reserve

Mpumalanga uMkhuze

Kwazulu-Natal Northern Cape

# Game Reserve ÷ ÷ iSimangaliso # Wetland Park

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi # ÷ Park

Free State LESOTHO

Durban • #

One to Two Weeks

Safari Special South Africa is one of the continent’s best safari destinations; in just a week or two it’s possible to do some serious wildlife spotting. From Jo’burg, head east to Mpumalanga and the country’s safari showpiece, Kruger National Park. The wildlife here and in the adjoining private wildlife reserves will hold you captivated for several days. If time is tight, Madikwe Game Reserve and Pilanesberg National Park, both within four hours’ drive of Jo’burg, are worthwhile additions to a bushveld itinerary. From Kruger, head south to Swaziland’s Malolotja Nature Reserve, where 200km of hiking trails cross grasslands and forests, and along the Ezulwini Valley, stopping to admire the woodlands and pick up local craftwork, to Mkhaya Game Reserve. Wildlife-rich Mkhaya is known for its unsurpassed black and white rhino populations. Leaving Swaziland, hit the N2 to KwaZulu-Natal’s uMkhuze Game Reserve, where animals lap at waterholes in pans surrounded by fever trees. Nearby are the waterways and diverse ecosystems of the 200km-long iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, where hiking the wilderness trails is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. From there, continue south along the Indian Ocean to Durban’s bars, restaurants and beaches.

26 Free State

LESOTHO

Northern Cape

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Eastern Cape Western Cape

Stellenbosch

CAPE_ # TOWN

Chintsa • #

Prince Albert

Franschhoek # • #•

• # Oudtshoorn

• # Montagu

• #

÷ # De Hoop Nature Cape Reserve Agulhas • #

• # • #

÷ #

Jeffrey’s Bay • #

Nature’s Valley and Tsitsikamma National Park Knysna Plettenberg Bay

Wilderness

• #

Hermanus

Meiringspoort • # # • # Pass Swartberg Pass •

INDIAN OCEAN

One to Three Weeks

Cape Coast Beautiful scenery, excellent infrastructure and a platter of attractions make this the South Africa of the glossy brochures. The loop can be done by public transport, but a car offers many possibilities for detours. After a few days in Cape Town, fitting in historical sights such as the District Six Museum and Bo-Kaap alongside iconic Table Mountain and the Cape of Good Hope, bid a tearful farewell and head to the Winelands. Spend a night or two wine-tasting in the vineyard-clad valleys of Stellenbosch or Franschhoek. Possible coastal detours include Hermanus for watching southern right whales (from June to December); Cape Agulhas, Africa’s southernmost point, where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet; or the beaches of the 34,000-hectare De Hoop Nature Reserve. Continue the gastronomic Winelands activities and head along the Breede River Valley to refined Montagu, its thatched cottages and gourmet restaurants reached through a hole in the Cogmanskloof mountains. From here, scenic Route 62, one of the world’s longest wine routes, leads through the Little Karoo to Oudtshoorn, South Africa’s ostrich capital. With its 19th-century mansions built by ‘feather barons’, Oudtshoorn is a convenient stopover before tackling the untarred Swartberg Pass, an engineering marvel, or Meiringspoort Pass, with a waterfall en route. On the far side of the Swartberg (Black Mountain) in the Great Karoo, the 18th-century village of Prince Albert is near the N1 back to Cape Town. Alternatively, backtrack south past Oudtshoorn to the Garden Route, where Wilderness’ beaches and lagoons are less developed than other parts of the coast. Heading east along the Indian Ocean, old-growth forests rise into the mountains above the resort towns of Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, both offering water sports and activities. Shortly before entering the Eastern Cape, detour down a windy road to Nature’s Valley, an aptly named beach village where happy hikers finishing the Otter Trail hang their boots in a tree. Shorter hikes also lead into the rippling valleys of rainforest and fynbos in the surrounding Tsitsikamma National Park. Back on the N2, surf hub Jeffrey’s Bay is worth a stop if you can tell a supertube from a point break. Otherwise, continue to Chintsa for an accessible taste of the Wild Coast area’s dreamy coves and Xhosa villages.

27 NAMIBIA

KwazuluNatal

Kimberley # Trans-Karoo • • # tourist-class train

Ladybrand LESOTHO • #

Free State

Nieu Bethesda • #

Western Cape

Mountain Zebra ÷ National Park #

Graaff## ÷ Reinet • Camdeboo National Park Oudtshoorn • • # # De Rust

# _

• #

• #

# Maseru • Roma

÷ #

Durban • #

Eastern Cape

• # Wild

Coast • #

Amathole

Addo Elephant National Park

CAPE TOWN INDIAN OCEAN

One Month

Grand Circuit Getting off to a stunning start in Cape Town, head east along Route 62 and the Garden Route, as described in our Cape Coast itinerary. Alternatively, if the Great Karoo’s open spaces seem more appealing than cruising along the Indian Ocean, head east from sleepy De Rust, on the N12 northeast of Oudtshoorn, along Rte 341, the N9 and Rte 329. Kicking up dust on secondary roads is one of South Africa’s unsung pleasures, but check road conditions locally. An inland detour along the N9 leads to Graaff-Reinet, South Africa’s fourth-oldest European-settled town, with 220-plus national monuments. Also in this quirky corner of the Karoo are Camdeboo National Park, with Cape buffaloes and views over the plains, and arty Nieu Bethesda, home of the sculpture-adorned Owl House. Stop at Mountain Zebra National Park for some final Karoo panoramas, or continue straight to Addo Elephant National Park, where great white sharks and southern right whales complete the ‘Big Seven’. Moving east, Amathole, formerly the Xhosa homeland of Ciskei, is well worth exploring, before the next batch of stellar highlights on the rugged Wild Coast and laidback Durban’s funky Florida Rd hangouts. From Durbs, head back inland, along the Midlands Meander and into the Drakensberg, where the Sani Pass climbs into Lesotho. Hiking and pony trekking in the mountain kingdom, you will meet Basotho people clad in their distinctive conical hats and patterned woollen blankets. Rather than stay in the capital Maseru, spend your last Lesothan night among sandstone cliffs in nearby Roma, a 19th-century mission station and now the country’s seat of learning. Across the international border in the Free State’s Eastern Highlands, Ladybrand is another pleasant stopover, its sandstone buildings overlooked by jagged peaks. Zip through the Free State’s shimmering golden fields and cross another border to the Northern Cape capital, Kimberley. The city that witnessed the world’s greatest diamond rush is a great place to get a feel for South African history, with Anglo-Boer battlefields, ghost tours, 150-year-old pubs and the township of Galeshewe. If time is tight, pick up a postcard of the world’s largest hand-dug hole and hop on the Trans-Karoo tourist-class train, which will whisk you back to Cape Town (or up to Jo’burg) in 12 hours.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Northern Cape

Sani Pass

28

NAMIBIA

|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

BOTSWANA ÷ Kgalagadi # Transfrontier Park Witsand Augrabies Falls Nature National Park Reserve • #

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

÷ #

÷ #

÷ #

Upington

# Port Nolloth • # Namakwa •

North-West Province

• # Kimberley

Free State

LESOTHO

Northern Cape

AT L A N T I C OCEAN

• # Calvinia

Cederberg Wilderness Area

Eastern Cape

÷ # Matjiesfontein • #

CAPE # _ TOWN

Western Cape

Two to Four Weeks

The Wild Northwest From Cape Town, head north to the Cederberg Wilderness Area, with its sandstone formations, lodges and campsites. Citrusdal and Clanwilliam are convenient bases. Head over Vanrhyns Pass, or the untarred Pakhuis Pass, to the Hantam Karoo outpost of Calvinia. Back on the N7, continue north to Namakwa, its rocky expanses carpeted with wildflowers in spring. Almost at the end of the region’s arrow-straight roads, between the Atlantic and the middle of nowhere, is Port Nolloth. If you have a 4WD and an adventurous streak, continue to the surreal mountain desert of |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. Back on the freeway, head east to the epic Augrabies Falls National Park, for hiking, rafting and canoeing. Catch the Orange River in a more mellow mood on a sunset cruise in Upington, before heading boldly north, between red Kalahari dunes, to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, one of the world’s best places to see big cats. Hit the tar back to Upington, or 4WD southeast, and continue through the Kalahari to Witsand Nature Reserve, where the wind roars over the dunes. Head east to Kimberley, famous for its 19th-century diamond rush, and turn south into the Karoo. Possible stops on the N1 include historic, perfectly preserved Matjiesfontein.

29 Gauteng • # Soweto

North-West Province

# Sentinel • HikingTrail

SWAZILAND

KwazuluNatal

Royal Natal

# National Park ÷

LESOTHO

INDIAN OCEAN Oribi Gorge

÷ Nature Reserve #

Northern Cape Port St Johns

• #

Eastern Cape East London • #

Two to Three Weeks

Eastern Wander Start your trip with a night in South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto. Visit a shebeen and see the street where Nobel Peace Prize winners Mandela and Tutu lived. Cross the Free State and, leaving the N3 at Harrismith, take scenic Rte 712 past Sterkfontein Dam to Clarens. The arty town, with its galleries and microbrewery, has surroundings worthy of an impressionist landscape. In the nearby Golden Gate Highlands National Park, stay in a riverside chalet and hike between sandstone outcrop; preparation for the mighty Drakensberg. To climb the iconic Ampitheatre to the top of the Drakensberg Escarpment, tackle the day-long Sentinel Hiking Trail. Spend a couple of days enjoying the spectacular day walks, such as Tugela Gorge, in the Royal Natal National Park, and continue southeast. Declimatise from the Draks in Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve, with its cliffs and forests above the Umzilkulwana River, and hit the Wild Coast. Port St Johns is a possible base for exploring the tribal region, where Xhosa rondavels (round huts with a conical roof) dot the green hills and sandy beaches meet the Indian Ocean. Pick up a connection from East London to Jo’burg or Cape Town, or continue west and join our Cape Coast or Grand Circuit itinerary.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Golden Gate Highlands #Harrismith National Park • # # Clarens • ÷ Free State

MOZAMBIQUE

Mpumalanga

30 Northern Cape

Paternoster • #

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Western Cape

West Coast # ÷ National Park • #

Darling • # Wellington

AT L A N T I C OCEAN

CAPE # TOWN _

McGregor • #

• # Franschhoek

Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve

÷ #

• #

Cape Hangklip

• #

• #

Greyton McGregor Hiking Trail

Greyton

• # Hermanus

One Week

Alternative Cape From Cape Town, head north and stop in Darling, where Evita se Perron shows give cross-dressing comedian Pieter-Dirk Uys’ distinctive take on South African life. Surrounding the Langebaan Lagoon, the West Coast National Park offers an accessible, southern look at the spring wildflower bloom. Overnight in Paternoster, with art galleries and restaurants among the whitewashed cottages. Head inland to Wellington, where there are some superb wineries in the shadow of Bainskloof Pass. Further into the Winelands, Franschhoek distils the area’s refined, European charm, with its French Huguenot heritage, vineyards and restaurants. Head southeast over the Franschhoek Pass and hit the N2 through the Overberg to reach the delightful village of Greyton. The twee, well-preserved spot has thatched self-catering cottages, good restaurants, mountain views, and a neighbouring 18th-century Moravian mission station. The 14km Greyton McGregor Hiking Trail leads through the Riviersonderendberge range to McGregor, a new age village in the Breede River Valley. From Greyton, return to Cape Town via Hermanus, the world’s best land-based whalewatching destination (June to December). Finish the journey on the stunning, coastal Rte 44, which winds around Cape Hangklip and skirts Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Mapungubwe National Park

31

ZIMBABWE

÷ #

BOTSWANA • #

Venda region MOZAMBIQUE

Limpopo Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve

÷ #

# Pilgrim’s • Rest

Kruger

÷ National Park #

• #

Graskop

North-West Province Gauteng

Mpumalanga

SWAZILAND

Two Weeks

Bushveld Blast Head directly north from Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport and spend a couple of nights in Limpopo’s biodiverse Soutpansberg range. West of Louis Trichardt (Makhado) are some wonderfully remote lodges, reached up rocky tracks and decorated with local artworks. Up on the Botswana and Zimbabwe border, one of South Africa’s unsung highlights, Mapungubwe National Park, sprawls across 28,000 hot hectares in the Limpopo River Valley. Returning south, even the landscape around the roads is extraordinary, with baboons scuttling between giant baobab trees. Spend a day or two discovering the mystic Venda region, where artists produce distinctive work and a python god is believed to live in Lake Fundudzi. Enter Kruger National Park through one of the northern gates and spend a few days ogling the Big Five, heading slowly south. Nip west from Kruger’s central section to the spectacular Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, where the river snakes down from the Drakensberg Escarpment to the lowveld. Before hitting the N4 back to Jo’burg, relax in Graskop, with gently sloping hills beyond its sleepy backstreets and craft shops. The town is a good base for Pilgrim’s Rest, a perfectly preserved 19th-century gold-rush village, and outdoor activities.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

# Soutpansberg •