Good things come in small packages, and Slovenia

De st i nat ion One of the new EU members is the small country in southern Central Europe – Slovenia. Small, yet charming, some would say. It is world...
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De st i nat ion One of the new EU members is the small country in southern Central Europe – Slovenia. Small, yet charming, some would say. It is world known for its delicious wine, Lipica studs and lovely Ljubljana. Do you feel sLOVEnia too?

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SLOVENIA: SMALL BUT BEAUTIFUL

Tucked neatly between Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia this small Central European country offers a wealth of diversity when it comes to landscape, beauty, lifestyle and history. It was ruled by the Austrian Empire for hundreds of years before joining the former Yugoslavia after the First World War. In 1991 it was the first to break away and, thankfully, managed to escape the war that ensued across its southern borders. Since then, the economy has been going from strength to strength, and in May 2004 Slovenia joined the European Union. The easternmost edge of the European Alps form the northern and western borders with Austria and Italy, while the Adriatic Sea provides a short, yet fascinating, stretch of coastline. Western Slovenia, from the coast to the foothills of the Alps retains a distinctively mild sub-Mediterranean climate thanks to the warm winds that blow in from the coast. However, on occasions that warmth can be counteracted by the fierce and bitterly cold Burja wind that howls from the northeast, dropping down from Nanos Mountain, near Postojna, and causing rapid drops in temperature.

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ood things come in small packages, and Slovenia undoubtedly fits that expression. Encompassing an area of a little over 20,000 sq. km (7,700+ sq. miles), the country more than compensates for its lacks in physical size with its extraordinary diversity. Due to its compactness, virtually any sight is just a daytrip away. Hike in the Alps one day and then

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bask in the sun on the Adriatic Coast the next. Go rafting or kayaking on the thundering mountain rivers in the morning and then spend the afternoon sampling the sumptuous wines in the many vinotekas lining the lush green hills. With so much diversity in such a small area, Slovenia makes an ideal holiday or short break and literally has something for everyone.

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I ncreasing attracti v ene s s

Since Slovenia entered the EU its attractiveness as a tourist destination has been steadily increasing. Favourable weather, investments in tourist infrastructure and improved quality of tourist services resulted in word-of-mouth advertising, which is helping to attract more and more tourists every year. The Slovenian government also decided to accelerate tourist development through substantial promotional investments. The perception of Slovenia as a transit country is changing. Nevertheless, Slovenia still has to improve its tourist offer to retain as much as possible those guests whose final destination is Croatia. Eurom on itor. c om

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© Kompas Archives

Much of the western region is karst, a vast world of limestone where huge, intricate cave systems have been carved out by erosion over millions of years, and fertile soils and an abundance of sunshine provides ideal conditions for winemaking. Add to that a scattering of medieval castles, ornate gothic churches and charismatic villages where locals eagerly await to serve you home-cooked food and it will soon become apparent why visitors keep coming back. Ljubljana, Slovenia's capital city may pale in comparison to other more mighty European cities, yet this is its charm. Strolling through the center, it feels more like a large town than a capital city. This, however, doesn't mean that it lacks the sophistication and attractions of its European neighbours. With its hilltop castle standing guard over the city center and old town, its plethora of exquisite architecture (much of it designed by Slovenia's most celebrated architect, Joze Plecnik), and the bars and cafes that spill out onto the patios outside, Ljubljana somehow manages to be a peaceful small town as well as a vibrant and exciting city. The castle is 1000 years old. Its most visited feature is the pentagonal tall tower. A narrow spiral staircase winds its way up to the top, where you will emerge to a panoramic, breathtaking view of Ja nu a r y, 2008

not only the city, but also of the surrounding alpine mountains. Ljubljana is also conveniently located in the middle of the country, which means that virtually everywhere in Slovenia is just a short drive away. For now we will head west and sample the delights that this region of undulating karst hills and plateaus has to offer. The coast is just an hour's drive down the motorway, but don't just wiz through; there is plenty to keep you occupied in-between. As you head west you will not fail to see the sign for Postojna Caves, a vast underground cave system carved out by millions of years of limestone erosion. 42% of Slovenia is karst, and in this region there is a network of underground tunnels. The largest and most famous are at Postojna. Stretching a total of 21 km, of which 5.2 km are now open to tourists, this is the most extensive cave system in Slovenia. Every year millions of tourists visit this stunningly beautiful underground formation, carved deep into the heart of the limestone hills. The 1,5 hour tour will take you through a fascinating world full of large, colorful stalactites and stalagmites, and the many mysteries of this underground world. You will also

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Dom e s tic touri s t s are i m portant

Increasing spending power on the one hand and rising demand for health and wellness holidays on the other hand resulted in growth in domestic tourism in both volume and value terms. Domestic tourists have also become more demanding, looking for valueadded services in terms of organised sports activities, wellness programmes or cuisine. However, Slovenians still generally prefer to spend holidays in neighbouring Croatia due to its beautiful coastline. Eurom onitor.c om

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learn about the unique olm or "human fish" which is an amphibian endemic. It is an odd creature that lives in dark pools inside the caves and defies all the logic of human nature. It's 25 cm long and completely blind (not that it needs eyes as it lives in total darkness). It has pigment-less skin and a long tail fin to propel itself through the water, but despite this it also has four legs. It has gills for breathing underwater, but also lungs for breathing out of water. Scientists have never been able to figure out how they reproduce, and they can live up to 100 years. A short drive from Postojna is the magnificent and imposing sight of Predjama Castle. Wedged tight into a crevasse halfway up the edge of a 123-meter cliff-face that protrudes dramatically into the surrounding valley, this daring piece of architecture is four stories high. The first castle was built here around the 12th century, but the restored structure you see today dates from the 16th century. A century before that, Erasmus (Erazem of Predjama), the castle's most famous occupant lived here. A headstrong and rebellious knight, Erasmus rebelled against the Austrian emperor Fredrick III and eventually killed his kinsman. Thus enraged, the Austrian leader commissioned the governor of Trieste to capture and kill Erasmus. This is where the impregnability of Predjama Castle was truly put to the test. For a year and a day Erasmus was besieged in his fortress. But, much to the dismay of his adversaries, he continued to survive and taunt the attacking soldiers by pelting them with cherries. They couldn't figure out how he was getting his supplies. Unbeknownst to the soldiers, Erasmus knew of a secret tunnel leading from the castle, which allowed him to travel to the nearby village of Vipava and collect supplies, including hoards of fresh cherries when the season was ripe.

De s tination : S l ov e ni a But it seemed that the solders were to have the last laugh. With the strategic placement of a small signal flag, a servant of Erasmus was bribed to reveal when his master was in the outhouse. Unfortunately for Erasmus, the toilet, situated on the top floor and at the very edge of the castle, was the one place that wasn't so impregnable. When the moment came, the flag was placed there by the treacherous servant. A single cannon ball was launched, and the errant knight was literally caught with his pants down. Guided tours of the castle are available daily during the summer, and you'll be shown around by an enthusiastic young guide dressed in medieval attire, seemingly under the delusion that he is Erasmus himself. Erasmus was said to have been buried where a large linden tree grows just outside the entrance to the valley. According to legend, this tree was planted by the knight's sweetheart on the spot where he was buried. In order to obtain supplies, Erasmus used a secret exit from the castle itself, but this was sealed at the beginning of the 17th century to stop thieves entering. From this cave extends a large underground network of tunnels carved out over millions of years by a stream called Lokva. This stream emerges in the town of Vipava, 13 km (8.4 miles) away (known locally as mini Venice owing to its 25 bridges). The sub-Mediterranean climate also provides ideal conditions for winemaking. Vineyards sprawl across the hills the Vipava Valley and Goriska Brda hills on the Italian border. The region's soil is known as Terra Rosa, and from it the ruby red Teran and Refosk wines are produced. The soil here is a lovely deep red, and the reason for this is the amount of iron released when the limestone dissolves. Slovenian wines are rarely exported. But this isn't necessarily a bad thing. To sample these unique wines is just one of many reasons to visit the area.

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There are plenty of tourist farms and restaurants offering degustation as well as the famous Karst ham (Prsut), air-dried, matured and served in ultra thin slices; a perfect compliment to the wine. The Vipava valley stretches through the heart of the Karst region, and some sections can often be closed off to large vehicles due to the ferocity of the Burja winds. The most noticeable characteristics of the area are the limestone houses that are protected by the government as cultural monuments. Another unique feature is the heavy stone roofs and chimneys supported with limestone slabs to help protect against the Burja. The Karst region covers most of western Slovenia and also stretches to the coast. Before you arrive at the coast though, there's another set of caves to explore: the Skocjan Caves. Although not as large, they are far more spectacular than Postojna. The caves were carved out over millions of years by the Reka River, which still gushes through with the almighty force that can be heard echoing through the great caverns as you walk through. The highlight of the tour is crossing the river on the 45-meter-high Hanke Canal Bridge. The nearby village of Lipica would probably be passed by if not for the Lipica Stud Farm. This holy of holies of equine breeding is said to be the original source of the world-famed thoroughbred Lipizzaner horses whose glistening white coats and gentle, graceful dancing have earned them an international reputation. You can take a tour in a traditional carriage, watch them perform at the daily show and visit them up close in their stables. A quick hop from here and you'll find yourself on Slovenia's short, yet impressive stretch of coastline. The wonderfully ornate architecture left behind by the ancient Venetians is most prevalent in the small town of Piran, while the modern affluence of Portorož sits just around the corner but seems like

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a world away. Piran sits on the tip of a narrow peninsula, and its narrow streets provide a cool respite from the heat of the Adriatic sun, eventually leading up to the Church of Saint George where you can climb the bell tower for a magnificent view across the red-tiled roofs that sprawl across town to the glistening waterfront. After all that exhaustion you can take a seat outside one of the many cafes and restaurants along the waterfront and relax after a long journey. Photo: Slovenia.info, Ukom.gov.si By Ian Middleton http://www.ian-middleton.co.uk http://www.romartraveler.com

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SLOVENIA TOURISM: SLOWLY BUT SURELY ly reflected in the current statistical data of Slovenian tourism on tourist arrivals and overnight stays by foreign visitors, added the tourist board. According to provisional data from Statistical office of the Republic of Slovenia (SORS), Slovenian accommodation facilities registered 2 percent fewer foreign visitors and 7 percent fewer overnight stays by foreigners in October 2008 compared to the

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our percent in tourist arrivals is not much of an increase given how competitive the current global travel and tourism market is, especially with the ongoing global economic downturn. But, for Slovenia, the 4 percent increase is proof that its tourism industry is heading towards greater heights. According to the Slovenia Tourist Board (STB), tourist accommodation facilities registered 2.4 mil-

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lion tourist arrivals and 7.4 million overnight stays by the end of October 2008. The overall number of overnight stays in the first ten months of 2008 was up 2 percent over the same period in 2007; the number of overnight stays by domestic tourists was up 5 percent, while the number of overnight stays by foreign tourists was unchanged. The global financial crisis, whose effects can also be felt in global and European tourist flows, is clear-

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I nternationa l v i sitor s

The total number of arrivals in the first nine months of 2008 has increased by 3% over the same period in 2007. According to the statistics, Italy (17%) is the leading foreign country, followed by Germany (13%), Austria (12%) and Croatia (6%). Slovenia registered 61% more visitors from Japan and 36% more visitors from Russia over the nine months. An upward trend in arrivals was also recorded among the Scandinavian countries (Norway +30%, Denmark +20%, Finland +12%) and the Benelux states (Luxembourg +114%, Belgium +11%, The Netherlands +9%), which remain among the most important prospective markets for Slovenian tourism in the future. Sl ov eni a Tour ist B o a rd

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same month last year. At the same time, however, Slovenia registered a two-digit increase in October in the number of domestic visitors and their overnight stays: arrivals and overnight stays were up 14 percent and 10 percent, respectively. The latter is consistent with global tourism forecasts, which predicted that people would be more likely to take their holidays in their home country. The data show that Slovenian tourism is affected by the financial crisis, as the statistical data are below expectations. The STB said it is well aware of this fact, so in order to curb the negative effects of the financial crisis it has adopted several key measures on which future market commuJa nu a r y, 2008

nication activities for the promotion of Slovenia and Slovenian tourism will be based. “The measures will aim primarily at including new prospective markets among the existing target markets, and in key markets for Slovenian tourism the STB will be carrying out activities and market communication campaigns to ensure that the results achieved so far are maintained,” the tourist board announced. Photo: Ukom.go.si, Visitljubljana.si By Nelson Alcantara http://www.eturbonews.com

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LJUBLJANA: THE YOUTHFUL CAPITAL

cant bits of the city mosaic are picturesque bridges across the Ljubljanica River and the vast Tivoli Park, which stretches into the very city centre. Ljubljana's present appearance is influenced partly by the Italian Baroque and partly the Art Nouveau, which found expression in numerous buildings constructed after the earthquake of 1895. In the second half of the 20th century, it was the world famous architect Jože Plečnik that put an indelible personal stamp on his native Ljubljana. The city's appearance was further shaped by his students and a new wave of renowned young Slovenian architects. Ljubljana's character is formed by a unique and felicitous mixture of two very different but complementary features: on the one hand, the city is famed for its historical heritage and tradition, but on the other, it is a relatively young city with a modern lifestyle whose residents' average age is only slightly above 30.

Places to see

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jubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is a central European city lying between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, in a basin where the Ljubljanica River flows into the Sava. It has all the facilities of a modern capital, and yet it has preserved its small-town friendliness and relaxed atmosphere. It is a vibrant city full of surprises. Its surrounding areas, packed with natural beauty and cultural sights bearing witness to the city's dynamic history, are renowned for

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their walking, hiking and cycle trails and a wide variety of culinary delights.

Young & Old

Ljubljana has preserved evidence of a five thousand year history including, among others, the remains of the Roman city of Emona and the old city centre with its medieval castle, Baroque façades, decorative portals and uneven roofs. Other signifi-

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In Ljubljana the old meets the new; and it seems that history has spent all of the settlement's five millennia preparing it to become the nation's capital. Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Castle) The central point of interest of Ljubljana is the Castle Hill. Excavations testify that the hill was first fortified in the time of the Celts and Illyrians and that the Romans had a military post there. The beginnings of the medieval castle go back to the 9th century, although the castle building is first mentioned only in 1144. At that time it was the seat of the provincial ruler Spanheim, who even minted his own coinage here. It gained its present image after the earthquake of 1511 and with further renovations at the beginning of the 17th century. It was occupied by the provincial rulers until the first decades of the 17th century, later becoming simply a garrison and

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provincial prison. The castle’s renovation is now nearly completed, so that the two wedding suites, the tower, chapel and cafeteria are open to visitors, while the rest of the reconstructed premises are used for occasional performances, exhibitions and social functions. Rotovž (Town Hall) The first building erected here in 1484 was rebuilt in 1718 to the plans of the architect Gregor Maček. It has preserved a number of memorials of Ljubljana’s past, including the Hercules and Narcissus fountain (the work of Robba’s workshop) and the Gothic auditorium, in which Ljubljana residents attended theatrical performances by itinerant comedians in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today it is the seat of the Ljubljana City Council. In front of the building there stands one of the most representative monuments in Ljubljana, the fountain with allegorical sculptures of the three Carniolan Rivers the Sava, Krka and Ljubljanica. It was created in 1751 by Francesco Robba, the most important Ljubljana sculptor of the 18th century. Ja nu a r y, 2008

Prešernov trg (Prešeren Square) This square is named after the greatest Slovene poet, France Prešeren (1800-1849). His poetry is a symbol of longing for love and freedom, which is why one of his poems, “A Toast” became the national anthem. The monument to Prešeren was unveiled in the autumn of 1905 and is the work of architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc. The square, based on the Italian model, is dominated by the ornamented facade of a Franciscan Church, built between 1646 and 1660. Its great altar is the work of sculptor Francesco Robba, from the mid-18th century. The vaults were painted by Matevž Langus in the mid-19th century, and repainted in the 1930’s by Matej Sternen. The Art Nouveau facades of “Ura” and “Centromerkur” are also a characteristic of Prešeren Square. Tromostovje (Triple Bridge), a special feature of Ljubljana’s architecture, is made up of an old stone bridge from 1842 and two side ones, which architect Jože Plečnik added in 1931 together, they provide an elegant entrance into the Old Town.

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Slovenia’s Baroque style capital city, Ljubljana, is home to some of Europe’s art nouveau gems. Slovenia’s architectural son, Jože Plečnik, saw the city as the new Athens, modelling its castle on the Acropolis and the National Library on the Hellenistic Library. This lively capital is where the old meets the new. Locals say it’s a ‘city made to measure’ as it offers all the friendliness of a small town yet at the same time everything that a capital city should offer. Every year Ljubljana comes alive when it hosts many national and international festivals and exhibitions of art, music and culture. Sl ov eni a Tour ist B o a rd

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© M. Tančič

Zmajski most (Dragon Bridge) The Dragon Bridge, designed in Art Nouveau style, stands by the market place and was built in 1901 on the site of the former wooden “Butcher’s Bridge”. It was named after the Emperor Franz Joseph, although only on paper, since the name was never adopted in practice. The bridge is a concrete and iron structure and was among the first of this type in Europe. Conceived by architect Otto Wagner’s pupil, Jurij Zaninovich, it features 4 statues of dragons and is considered one of the city’s landmarks. Photo: Visitljulbljana.si In cooperation with Ljubljana Tourist Board http://www.visitljubljana.si

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THE MOST POPULAR ATTRACTION: THE POSTOJNA CAVE year to 32,000,000 after 188 years in 2007. Thus far, the known extent of the Postojna cave system encompasses 21 kilometres and has several famous parts: Postojna cave, Otok cave, Pivka cave, Black cave and Planina cave. The main attractions of the cave are its stalactite formations, the result of calcareous sinter deposits. Over a short period of time, their growth is almost invisible – the stalactites in the Postojna cave are estimated to be from several ten thousand to several hundred thousand years old. Their colour depends on dissolved substance and can vary from pure white to red, brown or even grey. The cave environment is less subject to change and maintains a constant temperature of 10 degrees all year long.

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Postojna Cave system is the largest known cave system in Slovenia. There are longer caves in the world, but a visit to a cave such as Postojna deserves full attention due to the diversity of shapes, expansive cave areas, stalactite and stalagmite formations and water characteristics. What is especially noteworthy is that most of these various shapes and formations can be seen

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by every visitor, meaning tourists and not just cavers with special caving equipment. Well kept paths for tourists comprise the greater part of Postojna Cave, making it a "horizontal" cave. Thus a visit to the cave does not present any difficulties for most visitors. The Postojna cave is a stunning natural wonder and its visit has risen from 104 people in the first

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Se v era l thou s an d s of cav e s

Under the surface of the Karst region is a totally different world. The extensive underground cave systems at Postojna (the biggest of Slovenia’s caves, most visited and the only one in Europe that can be visited by train) and Skocjan (the deepest cave in Slovenia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site) were discovered centuries ago. But it wasn’t until the 19th century that biologists discovered the subterranean world is home to semi-aquatic creatures that cannot survive elsewhere and the damp climate sees the footprint of the caves continually changing. There are over 8,000 registered caves in Slovenia, 25 of them open to tourists. Sl ov eni a Tour ist B o a rd

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Researchers have observed 84 distinct animal species inhabit the cave; they cannot be found in the tourist parts but are retained in the Colourful passage (“Pisani rov” in Slovene) and aquatic parts of Pivka and the Black caves. Since the sensitive terrain can easily be damaged by harmful external factors, it is very vital that the conditions remain suitable for the existence of distinct fauna. Insight into cave life is possible in the speleo-biological station called the “human fish”. Beside intriguing animal species, the Vivarium offers a multimedia presentation on Kras and subterranean life and a presentation of the cave‘s shapes and forms.

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Astonished by what he saw the first time, the Austrian Emperor Franz I. decided to visit the cave once more, 188 years ago. In preparation for the royal attendance, the manager decided to brighten the cave. One of the workers, Luka Čeč, climbed to the high edge of the Velika dvorana (Grand Hall) and discovered the interior parts of the cave. “This is a new world, this is paradise!” shouted Čeč, enraptured with the outstanding stalagmite beauty. With this discovery, he prompted research of the subterranean world and thereby crucially contributed to Kras (Karst) tourism. Some famous visitors also described the cave. Janez Vajkard Valvasor pictured it with obvious baroque exaggeration and it was not before Baltazar Hacquet described it that the world heard of Postojna cave as it is. Dragan Kiković of Turizem Kras said that in addition to the Hapsburg court members, many other aristocrats and notabilities visited the cave. One of them was also the famous British sculptor Henry Moore, who visited the cave with the Slovene artist Božidar Jakac in 1955. “This is the most beautiful natural statuary exhibition that I have even seen,” Moore stated in the visitor registry, leaving one of the most interesting celebrity impressions. The Postojna cave can be described with many superlatives. Its very first visits date all the way back to 1213 and it was in the significant year 1819 that the visitor register was introduced. In 1867, the

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cave was represented in an international exhibit in Paris and only five years later it introduced the first subterranean railway in the world. Since then, the cave infrastructure has been upgraded and can today offer an outstanding natural wonder combined with a quality and responsive service. Photo: Postojnska-jama.si http://www.postojnska-jama.si http://www.sloveniatimes.com

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FIJAKERS, PLETNAS AND CREAM CAKES IN BLED

has no considerable affluent except some streams. The thermal springs in the northeast part are captured in three swimming pools: at the Toplice Grand Hotel, Park Hotel and Golf Hotel. The beauty of the lake is stressed by the island on the west side.

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The most famous of all the Slovenian top tourism places is Bled. The Bled Lake is known all over the world. If you ask someone about Slovenia, the person usually doesn’t know what you are talking about. But if you mention this crystal lake: "Now this is a different story!" Ja nu a r y, 2008

B l e d Lake

Altitude 475 m

The Lake came into existence when the Bohinj Glacier moved away. It is 2120 m long, up to 1380 m wide and it is of the tectonic origin. After the last Ice Age, the Bohinj Glacier deepened its natural tectonic hollow and gave it its present form. When the ice melted the basin was filled with water. The lake

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Length 2120 m Width 1380 m Area 144 ha Maximum depth 30.6 m Maximum annual water temperature is 26°C.

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The Bled Lake is known for its island with a church in the middle of the lake. You can go there with a special boat that is called “pletna”. It is an old tradition and even now in the 21st century the boatmen are rowing in a standing position. There is also a castle, located on the top of a cliff, with a view over the whole area and also the Julian Alps. The Bled castle is now arranged as an exhibition area. You can visit here the printing works,

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castle cellar, herbal gallery, restaurant, souvenir shop and see multi vision. If you don’t want to walk around the Lake, you can take a carriage with the coachmen called “fijaker”. You can visit many other destinations with the carriage, but this one around the lake is practically the best and the cheapest one. If you want a little snack you can eat the traditional Cream Cake. You can buy them where ever you want, but those from Bled are simply the best. The thermal springs which are led into the swimming pools at the Grand Hotel Toplice (23°C) and the Park and Golf Hotels (28°C–the water is additionally heated) enable pleasant swimming and successful treatment of stress related illnesses, exhaustion, neuro-vegetative disorders and agerelated fatigue. With immense natural beauty, Bled, together with its surroundings, ranks among the most beautiful alpine resorts, renowned for its mild, healing climate and thermal lake water. The beauty of the mountains reflected on the lake, the sun, the serenity and the fresh air arouse pleasant feelings in visitors

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i “Lake Bled looks too good to be true: a glassy expanse, broken only by a tiny island with a fairytale church spire, and fringed with thick green forests and hard, grey mountain peaks. At the lake’s edge is the finishing touch: a medieval castle perched on a steep rocky pedestal.” Tom G att i – Tim es on lin e.c o.u k

throughout the year, guaranteeing an ideal base or a relaxing break or an active holiday. Bled attracts businessmen, artists, athletes, explorers, sport enthusiasts, the old and the young, from all over the world, enchanting them to return again and again. Photo: Ukom.gov.si, Bled.si http://www.bled.si http://www.slovenia-top-tourism.com