Global Living issue 10 | january/february 2014
Living Luxuriously, Worldwide
Healthy Living the Expat Way Part II of Series: Healthy Mind, Body & Spirit
a canadian valentine
A British Expat Discovers Canada's Uplifting Approach to Valentine's Day
Ski getaways IN the U.S.
Luxury Village Escapes for the Whole Family
BOOK REVIEWS: EXPAT ANTHOLOGIES
magazine
NEW YEAR
Issue
Five Recommended Expat Books about Living Abroad
The Psychology of expatriation Internal Struggles with the Great Expectations of Living a Global Life
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belize Abu dhabi barcelona Arizona somerset
Kristian Brask Thomsen Meet the Danish Culinary Ambassador Who Creates Unforgettable Gourmet Dining Experiences for Haute Cuisine Connoisseurs
A Global Media Partners LLC Publication www.GlobalLivingMagazine.com
Global Living Magazine
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Finding Bliss in
pho t o grap hy by A nis ha S hah
Belize It’s easy to divide Belize into rainforest and beach, many visitors only discovering either aspect. But for such a tiny country boasting exquisite scenes throughout, there’s no need for proverbial partition. Traversing its length and breadth is easy, so don’t settle for less than the best of both. By Anisha Shah
Belize beginnings Wedged between Guatemala and Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, Belize is blessed with virgin beauty. Vast, untouched, whitesand beaches give way to translucent azure waters bearing the largest barrier reef in the world after Australia (longest in the Western Hemisphere). Two hours inland, dense rainforests and remote rivers shelter endangered species, many indigenous and unique to Belize, while concealing rich historical Mayan sights. In addition to the astonishing array of marine life and a dazzling display of jungle life, the Caribbean way of life completes the allure.
Victoria House
Belize is an exception to the Central American rule, culturally and historically. The sole English-speaking nation exudes a notable Caribbean laid-back ambiance among its ethnically-diverse population of Mayans, Mestizos, Mexicans, Afro-Indians and expats from across the globe. The latter are attracted to the myriad palm-lined Cayes and Atolls, finding that elusive work-life balance in this narrow strip of the planet. They all understand the key to success – individuality with a Belizean flavor. To this end, there isn’t a single multinational chain in the country – no Starbucks or Hilton hotels, for example. Global Living Magazine
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Peppered throughout are an abundance of uber-luxury properties offering serious R&R in thatched-roof finery – none finer than the multiple award-winning, ultraluxury retreats of Hollywood film director Francis Ford Coppola: Blancaneaux Lodge and Turtle Inn. Coppola is considered the Godfather of hoteliers in Belize. With ambitious vision and determination to match, decades ago he converted his private 70-acre home in the forest into an enchanted fairytale retreat, which consistently tops travel polls. He cleverly uses the subtlety and drama of nature to play on surrealism, stimulating the subconscious mind while pandering to every conscious desire, all with a serious eco-friendly lead.
Victoria House
of wildlife on loudspeaker. The loudest culprits are the tiniest frogs! But dawn chorus brings its own shrill of nature’s operatic alarm clock. An entire concerto of birdlife echoes – knocks, clicks, whoops and trills – as Green Jays, Red-Lored parrots and Melodious Blackbirds announce the day. Outdoor and nature-lovers will delight in the rainforest. The soft limestone bed, under the damp exotic canopy of sail-like fronds and huge palms stretching skywards, is punctuated with caves and Cenotes – sunken water caves, which the ancient Mayans believed led to the underworld. Now, they’re whimsical swimming sanctuaries to challenge Enid Blyton’s imagination. While taking a dip alone in a deep dark pool, I half expect fairies to emerge. Jungle sanctuary Hiking, mountain biking, cave tubing Arrival at Blancaneaux is a fantasy. Nothing and zip lining are among the choices of short of a film set, the dramatic hideaway is adrenaline-inducing activities. Horseback captivating, shrouded by the wonderland of riding is my passion, and Blancaneaux the jungle-clad Cayo district. Every element Lodge has its own stables complete with of the wilderness appears perfectly placed. guide-trainers. Trotting down muddy slopes Unlike the rest of the country’s wild and surrounded by dense wild bush, ducking for exotic jungle, which brims with orchids, branches, into a canter through flowing vines, bromeliads and creepers, here we’re brooks and dusty pathways on horseback in the Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve. is pure exhilaration – even better when the Twenty luxurious casitas are final spot is a mountain ledge woven into surrounding tall, from which to watch the sun For a small elegant Honduras pine trees. sink into the jungle. There’s The sun glimmers through the also the spectacular Big village, fine lush needles in the hillside Rock Falls, an hour away on at dawn and dusk, twinkling Placencia has horseback followed by a short through the vegetation. Below, a very sociable hike down steep boulders rainwater glides off granite to a deep expansive natural atmosphere, boulders into swirling cascades pool under waterfalls. While of Privassion Creek, collecting there, the weather suddenly as weekends in turquoise pools. Beyond, changes to monsoon rain so thunderous echoes of distant continue into saturated I can barely open waterfalls and wild animals the early hours. my eyes – a reminder that this nibble at the senses. is no controlled environment, By nightfall, the jungle comes alive with but rugged rainforest. the ceremonial resounding reverb of a roster In Belize’s jungle, I savor every moment, 32
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as time is filled only with pleasure. By dusk, I head to my haven, Waterfall Spa. The most incredible setting of any spa on the planet, an open-faced natural light treatment room steps directly into a long, semi-circular outdoor infinity pool heated by hydroelectricity, peering over cascading waterfalls and enveloped by dripping vegetation of tropical jungle. Before my Balinese massage, by a powerful Indonesian therapist, I soak in the hot pool. Mist evaporates off the surface, drifting downstream over natural sandy beaches on the banks of the gushing creek. The splendor for the senses achieved by eco-luxury is phenomenal. Peace in Placencia’s peninsula After a few days in the rainforest, I leave to uncover a contrasting image of Belize. Some 130 miles away on the Caribbean Coast lies a long, narrow, sleepy peninsula, lined by idyllic white sand beaches and azure seas to the west and mangrove lagoon to the east. Placencia, a village consisting of one long main road, was named for its shape by Spanish travelers. One property that was completely destroyed by the 2001 hurricane, which ripped apart 95% of Placencia, was Coppola’s only other Belize boutique hotel, Turtle Inn. In 2003 it re-opened, entirely rebuilt, raising the bar high for Placencia. Understated yet plush, Turtle Inn is a labor of love. This beachside refuge attains luxury while embracing rustic nature. Behind an ultra-relaxed façade runs a slick operation, headed up by an unlikely candidate, at least upon initial meeting. Martin Krediet is the Johnny Depp in Coppola’s beach set, appearing in a white linen shirt, trilby hat and shorts. He’s watching guests try their hand at kite surfing and, it appears, itching to get in. Our informal friendly greeting in this blissful setting induces relaxation from
pho t o grap hy by A nis ha S hah
Turtle Inn
Placencia
pho t o grap hy by A nis ha S hah
Rainforest
the moment of arrival. That’s part of the charm of Turtle Inn, and Martin assumes his role like a natural. A handful of individual thatched cabanas are mere steps from the beach. I particularly delight in my airy, private deck for the serene option of in-cottage breakfast. Coppola wins my award for coolest contraption in a hotel room: the Shell Phone. Don’t expect traditional phones in the rooms of either of his properties. The Shell Phone is a large, beautiful conch shell attached to what looks like a gramophone base. It connects directly to reception as the shell echoes the voice on the other end – a quirky way to order coffee to my room. With so much beauty outside, it’s difficult to find an excuse to stay inside. My preferred spot is the wall-less beach bar for lunch. Dining on gourmet Red Snapper Burger or Garlic Butter Lobster, while feeling the powdery sand between my toes and listening to the motion of the sea just three feet away is, quite frankly, my idea of heaven. I find Turtle Inn staff service impeccable too – standalone excellence above and beyond requirement. For example, bringing a change of shoes from my room to a nearby bar while on an evening out (don’t wear heels to Barefoot Bar – the clue is in the name) is met speedily and with finesse. Outside my cabana, I while away the hours on a hammock on the beach, tucking into fresh shrimp tacos on the baby chairs and wooden table in the shallows of the sea, and swing myself to a lull before bed on a tree-swing.
Rising out of Belize City feels particularly Bond-esque, and I can’t hide my excitement as I peer below my feet to glassbottom views. Long walks on the wild Caribbean beach are a given in Placencia. Without a person in sight, they’re postcard views, passing sparse beachfront cottages and the odd natural log, tree or shell to break the monotony of white sand. Late afternoons are best spent socializing with locals at ‘Barefoot’ beach bar, a short stroll along the beach or bike ride away (Turtle Inn provides guests with free bikes.) For a small village, Placencia has a very sociable atmosphere, as weekends continue into the early hours. Barefoot Bar is the liveliest hub, spilling over to next-door Tipsy Tuna, a beachfront nightclub, Placencia-style. On a calmer segment of beachfront where the water is so still (there’s nothing but one line separating the horizon), sits a luxury boutique hotel of a different style. Chabil Mar has the feel of an 80’s Caribbean holiday home but with the modern interior comforts of gadget-outfitted apartments. My vast one-bedroom suite features a wrap-around balcony and veranda directly overlooking the Caribbean Sea. With air conditioning and a fully-equipped kitchen, I feel right at home in this very local property. Within three days, I know half the village
View from helicopter
by first name, greeting people in the street and stopping for chats. The locals embrace this atmosphere and cherish it. But for those who find it too insular, the northern island of Ambergris Caye is the most popular spot in Belize. Famous for San Pedro town, the subject of Madonna’s ‘La Isla Bonita,’ this is a little more commercial, with bars, restaurants and cafes spilling into the streets and onto the beach. Still no multinational franchises though, as they’re all local and individually-owned. Placencia does have a tiny airport. Cessna planes transport passengers cheaply to and from Belize City. I get the option of sitting in co-pilot, benefitting from incredible views over rivers, beaches and forest. Belize barrier reef by helicopter A seriously sexy mode of transport to Ambergris Caye is private helicopter. My journey takes in shimmering jewel shades of turquoise and aquamarine along the 190mile barrier reef, landing directly in the Global Living Magazine
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The fastest way to get around is by speedboat. Locals use the taxi ferry, which picks up at piers along the seafront. By evening, however, be warned that the service is every 1-2 hours. When I tire of an evening at the upmarket beachfront bar, ‘Rojo Lounge’, there an ideal spot for is literally no way to get back other than to charter ease of access to a speedboat from my hotel. ‘La Isla Bonita’ I spend the afternoon dipping in San Pedro while For the cost of a London the sea, joined by huge rays and distant enough to taxi, it’s an affordable and colorful Parrotfish, just off the exhilarating feeling, slicing pier by the hotel’s beachfront be its own oasis of through the inky black sea at serenity. bar, in between munching night, watching the lights on on delicious Lobster Ceviche land turn into dazzling jetstreams. and sipping cocktails. Ten minutes in the Back to my hotel, Victoria House proves to distance is San Pedro. be an established and well-loved property. It Madonna’s famous song, ‘La Isla Bonita,’ is the epitome of classic luxury. Established thrust this Caye to fame in its heyday in the in 1981 and spanning 10 acres, I learn that 90s. San Pedro is as hedonistic as Belize gets. it’s a name synonymous with barefoot Even then, the party scene is easy-going and luxe. My duplex suite comes with a fullycasual with waterfront, open-walled clubs equipped kitchen – a touch I appreciate for radiating more of a drop-in and duck-out afternoon tea or coffee in my own comfort. feel. The wide stretch of beach is pristine and private, which is a coup on Ambergris Caye, Explore Ambergris Caye just minutes from San Pedro. I find it an The only way to get around Ambergris ideal spot for ease of access to San Pedro Caye by land is by golf buggy, which I rent while distant enough to be its own oasis from the hotel. Ignoring their suggestions, of serenity. I have way too much fun taking off alone, crossing the ‘border’ – a toll bridge over a Swim with sharks channel in the sea, heading north of the The hotel’s private pier is always busy, as island, which is considered far by locals. Ambergris Caye is Belize’s closest point to With no paved roads, deep, wide potholes the Barrier Reef, just a little over half a mile ensure a tumultuous ride, finding solace into the sea. Hiring a VH-reputed speedboat in beachfront greenery. At a crossroads in and diving instructor, it takes just minutes the dirt track, the choice is mind-boggling: to begin snorkeling on the world’s largest ‘Main Road’ or ‘Dead End’. Such is the barrier reef, second only to Australia itself. enviable simplicity of life here. Stretching north to south, the reef shelters 34
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Ambergris
Chabil Mar
all the interior Cayes with deep canyons of staghorn, elkhorn and brain coral, starting at 90 feet at dive sites. Shark Ray Alley is a sandy plateau inside the reef. Fishermen used to clean their catch here, attracting swarms of nurse sharks and squadrons of stingrays. The effect has lingered. “Welcome to shark-land … but they are very friendly and you can touch them as they brush past you,” exclaims my instructor. ‘They feel like sandpaper.” Admittedly, this is where I panic and deem it best not to enter the water in that state. I don’t miss out much though, as they circle the boat, dorsal fins protruding, making a splash together. The sharks appear to be playful and boisterous, not minding human interaction at all. Back on land, at the foot of the famed San Pedro action, I discover The Phoenix hotel, an award-winning oasis of luxury. As a relative newcomer, I’m left wanting for nothing in this Condé-Nast-Johansensrecommended property. Manager, Mark Maggioto, welcomes me to a modern, sumptuous two-bedroom Caribbean Seafront apartment. Decked out in the latest technology, fully equipped with utilities and plush furnishings and with the luxury of massive space – 1,500 sq ft, this is an ideal spot for the young, sassy and demanding, with the best concierge in town. Beau Belize Watching the sun melt into the sea on my final evening, I’m startled at Belize. Rainforests to beaches and properties of effortless luxury and Caribbean warmth, this dot on the map encompasses everyone’s idea of a dream holiday. It’s only a matter of time before Belize becomes renowned globally as a destination of a lifetime.
pho t o grap hy by A nis ha S hah
gardens of my next hotel, Victoria House. Astrum Helicopters offers three different tours. I choose the one flying over offshore Cayes and Atolls. Rising out of Belize City feels particularly Bond-esque, and I can’t hide my excitement as I peer below my feet to glass-bottom views. Gustavo, my rugged, handsome pilot and MD of Astrum, is as relaxed as can be. He radiates the lifestyle through a suave laid-back demeanor. Swirls of shallow, sandy islands appear milky under the water’s surface. Speckles of land litter the sea as a thousand dark dots amidst piercing, cats-eye-colored sea. From above, the water is transparent. I shriek as we spot a family of sharks and rays over the aptly-named Shark Ray Alley, a very popular snorkeling/ diving spot. Gustavo flies low over Hol Chan Marine Caye Caulker Reserve as we spot more sea-life, then shows off a 360-degree panorama right along the barrier reef as far as the eye can trace and then The wide stretch of straight out to endless deep beach is pristine blue. A once-in-a-lifetime and private, which experience, this is an absolute is a coup on highlight of my Belize trip. Ambergris Caye, Coming into land, Victoria House appears as an elegant, just minutes from white property, gracing a wide San Pedro. I find it stretch of pristine beachfront.
