Fashion and Tradition Subcultures
Final Report by
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Participating countries: Great Britain Greece Italy Poland
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Spain Turkey
Final report, summarizing the views presented by the five participating countries on the topic
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"Subcultures" Vibo Valentia, Italy December 1, 2, 3 2010 2 C
Great Britain
Great Britain presented the subculture of Morris Dancers. The Morris is an ancient tradition that has survived and evolved over the course of many centuries. Morris dancing is a celebration, a display of dance and music performed at seasonal festivals and holidays to banish the dark of winter, celebrate the warmth and fertility of summer, and bring in autumn's golden harvest.
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The dancing is very lively and accompanied by an accordion player, a melodeon or fiddle player or a noisy band with a drum
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Morris dancers wear bright clothes and leap in the air waving handkerchiefs and sticks with bells jingling from their clothing.
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In Nuneaton, Warwickshire, where the Great Britain delegation comes from, they have their own Morris group: The Anker Morris Men Here are a few pictures of the Nuneaton Morris group.
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Greece
Greece described the features of several contemporary subcultures. Heavy Metal, first appeared in the 1970s and inspired by famous bands like Iron Maiden and Metallica. Members of the subculture can be recognized because they typically wear black leather jacket - usually sleeveless, black leather pants or jeans, black leather wristbands or chains. They have long hair and sometimes wear black and white make-up.
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The Goth subculture has no pronounced political messages or cries for social activism. The subculture, born in Germany between the 1980s and early 1990s, is marked by its emphasis on individualism and tolerance for diversity. Typical gothic appearance includes a pale complexion, dyed black hair, dark eyeliner, dark nail polish and lipstick, black vintage clothing. Styles are often borrowed from the Elizabethan, Victorian or medieval period and often express pagan, occult, or other religious imagery such as pentacles or ankhs. Goths love lace and sometimes have piercings.
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The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement born in the United States during the mid-1960s, swiftly spreading to other countries around the world. Hippies rejected all conventional desires for wealth, power, health, and fame by living a simple life free from all possessions. They were against political and social orthodoxy, choosing an ideology that favored peace, love and personal freedom. Hippies wore long hair. Women put on flowers or went for the Pocahontas headband. Men had beards or moustaches, but never nicely trimmed. Leather sandals were worn for all occasions. They identified themselves with the peace symbol.
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The punk subculture emerged in the mid 1970s. Punk ideology is mostly concerned with individual freedom, anti-establishment views, anti authoritarianism, and non-conformity. Punk fashion adapted everyday objects for aesthetic effect: ripped clothing was held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape; ordinary clothing was customized by embellishing it with marker or adorning it with paint; safety pins and razor blades were used as jewelry. Also popular have been leather, rubber, and vinyl.
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Italy
Italy described the subculture of Ultras. Ultras are a type of sports fans renowned for their fanatical support and elaborate displays. They are predominantly European followers of football teams. Ultras express their support for their club the use of flares (primarily in tifo choreography), vocal support in large groups and the displaying of banners at football stadiums, in order to encourage their own team and to intimidate opposing players and supporters.
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Ultras groups are usually based around a core group of founders or leaders with smaller subgroups organized by location, friendship, or political stance. They use various styles and sizes of banners and flags bearing the name and symbols of their group. Some ultras groups sell their own merchandise to raise funds for performing displays.
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The country most associated with the ultras movement is Italy. The first Italian ultras groups were formed in 1951, including the Fedelissimi Granata of Torino. The term Ultras was used as a name for the first time in 1969 when supporters of Sampdoria formed the Ultras Tito Cucchiaroni and fans of Torino formed the Ultras Granata.
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What all Ultras have in common is their desire to support their club or team while enjoying the experience, the extreme pleasure they gain in providing that support creatively for a full 90 minutes – both acoustically and visually – and to prepare these activities in the week before the game. Accordingly, what counts for most Ultras is not only the match result or the league in which their club or team plays but, rather, their committed support to the club, and the activities before, during and after the match.
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Although most European Ultras do not wear the traditional fan clothing and accessories because they reject the excessive marketing of football and its commercialization, they do have a certain dress code that displays their group identity and clearly distinguishes them from outsiders. Most groups even possess their own range of clothing, with polo shirts, rugby shirts, sweatshirts, Tshirts, caps and scarves bearing the group‟s logo or design.
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Ultra is not just to be seen as another type of fans‟ group inside a stadium, it is a lifestyle and subculture whose different forms of expression reach well beyond the actual match day. If they are able to, they travel to every away game, they organize events and various social projects around the club. Unfortunately , the actions of ultras groups can occasionally be overly extreme and are sometimes influenced by political ideologies or racism.
Ultras consider themselves as “extreme” fans of their club. Having said that and contrary to the dominant public opinion on ultras, this “extreme” is not to be seen as something negative in the first place but rather in the sense of being “very passionate”. To put it very briefly: in other areas of society there are Hipsters and Punks, in football there are Ultras.
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Poland Polish subcultures of 60‟, 70‟, 80‟ and 90‟
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Bikiniarze (Teddy Boys) Bikiniarze were the first after-war polish subculture. They were formed in the 50s, based upon the Teddy Boys” subculture from the USA. They were considered by the communist government as enemies of the state, because of their fascination in western culture.
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Bikiniarze dressed, much like the Teddy Boys, in very elegant outfits: - Suede Jackets - Leather shoes - Usually ties
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The Bikiniarze The Bikiniarze were interested in rock n‟ roll artists were: – Elvis Presley – Little Richard – Bill Haley
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music. Their favourite
Hippies The Hippies were a worldwide movement of nature-loving, potsmoking youngsters. This subculture originated in the 1960s and went on to the 70s.
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Punks Punks are a rebel and anarchist subculture, who don‟t agree with any rules. They rebel against laws, routine, big corporations – they just can‟t stand any control.
Punks sport dark, eccentric clothes and clumsy hairstyle
The punks were into a very fast and rebellious rock music called Punk Rock. The most popular polish punk bands were: Dezerter, Aya RL, T. Love, Kult, Tilt and Siekiera.
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Dresiarze Dresiarze is a primitive, agressive subculture based on the worship of money. They don‟t esteem any law, just like they don‟t esteem people. They use trash-language in witch they use vulgarisms like a comma. They are proud from that they „Hate police” witch is like a life motto for them. Sometimes they are mistaken with skinheads which are actually a totally different subculture. Dresiarze wears brand, tracksuit clothes for show, sometimes gold chains or other jawelery with which they want to show how „cool” they are. Most of them are bold. They listen worthless music like: Disco-Polo, Polish Rap or Techno.
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Spain Also Spain described the characteristics of contemporary subcultures, defined as „urban tribes‟, and told us about the most common subcultures in their region, Castellò. Urban tribes, are groups of people from all over the world, that share the same ways of thinking and feeling, and show similar dressing styles, habits, and gathering places. Some of the most common urban tribes in the Castellò region are the Emos, the Mods, the „Pijos‟, and the „Lolailos‟.
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The Emo subculture is characterized by a negative view of life, influenced by the modern society „that cares more about money than about people‟s needs‟. They are non-conformists and their haircuts usually cover part of their face.
Mods, contraction for modernists, reinterpret the lifestyle of the 50s. Their fetish is the Lambretta motorbike, and they wear simple lines with retro complements. They drink branded beer, support FC Barcelona, and the left-wing party in Catalonia.
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Pijos are a growing group in Spain. The most representative feature of this subculture is wealth, and to display wealth. For this reason they wear expensive branded clothes and show off expensive hobbies. Women use to wear gold jewels and have long hair. Accessories, such as sunglasses and watches, are very important, and so are expensive cars.
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Lolailos are a typical Spanish subculture, partly originating from Andalusia mixed with Gipsy influences. They have a male chauvinist view and show off golden accessories. They listen to deep Spanish music, and wear short haircuts.
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Turkey The Turkish delegation described the subculture of Gypsies. Historically, Gypsies have been sometimes called “stateless”, sometimes called “landless”, or even the “forgotten people”. In the Turkish language, they are called Çingene. There are three origins of Gypsies in the world: Kaldera Gitano Manush The ones in Turkey are coming from “Kaldera” clan. Most of them came to Turkey during the World War I.
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They reside not only in the biggest cities of Turkey but also in rural areas. In the entire world live 3 or 4 millions of Gypsies, and of these, about 500.000 live in Turkey. Gypsies are nomadic people. They move from one place to another and seldom use modern vehicles.
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There is no unity in Gypsy culture. Commonly, they are bounded to their families, they believe in “Del” (God) and “Beng” (Devil) and they have belief of faith. They have some rites in the rituals of blessing, wedding and burial.
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They are cheerful people who like colorful clothes, jewelries and flowers. There are some TV series based on Gypsy lifestyle. Still they do jobs like shoe shining, but many of them are musicians. Musical education begins at early ages within the family, and there are many street bands of Gypsies.
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With the contribution of: King Edward VI College King Edward Road, Nuneaton – Warwickshire - CV11 4BE (Great Britain) Kalimasia Senior High School, 82100 Chios (Greece) Istituto Professionale di Stato per l‟Industria e l‟Artigianato “G. Prestia” Via G. Fortunato, 89900 Vibo Valentia VV (Italy) Gimnazjum Społeczne Milanowskiego Towarzystwa Edukacyjnego Brzozowa 1, 05-822 Milanówek (Poland) IES Alfons XIII Calle Conselleria de Cultura,12194 Vall d'Alba, Castellón (Spain) Haydar Akçelik Anadolu Meslek ve Kız Meslek Lisesi Eyüp, 34050 ,Nişancı, Istanbul (Turkey)
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