Clothing Selection, Construction and Fashion Revue Welcome to a new and exciting 4-H event that provides an opportunity for you to: ‘ ‘ ‘

make or select an outfit for competitive evaluation in one of four categories;

‘

demonstrate your knowledge and skills in clothing skill-a-thons.

model your ensemble with chosen accessories for a “Total Look”;

Fashion Revue Divisions This event is designed for 4-H’ers who like to sew as well as those of you who like to learn about selecting, buying and caring for your clothes. You can enter the contest in one of two divisions:

e Construction: you make your outfit. e Selection: you select ready-to-wear outfit. Once you’ve decided which division you want to enter, you need to decide which category you plan to enter. The categories for the clothing construction and clothing selection competitions are:

Fashion Revue Categories Juniors (ages 8-10) may enter one outfit or ensemble in the following categories of entries in either the selection or construction division. One garment, like a pair of shorts, a skirt, a simple dress, a shirt are quite appropriate entries for your age and experience. If you have questions, check with your 4-H leader or Extension 4-H Agent. Active Sports Wear: One or two piece outfits from coordinated fabrics for a total look for your favorite leisure activities. No swim wear is permitted. School/Informal Wear: Non-tailored, casual outfits of one or more garments, coordinated for a total look acceptable for nonformal events like school, youth activities, etc. Special Occasion: Dressy ensembles appropriate for special occasions. My Choice: Costumes, western wear, lounge wear or other garment that do not fit another category.

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What else do you need to know or do? With the new contest you will enter your outfit to be judged on its quality; model your outfit with your chosen accessories; and then you will participate in a clothing selection and construction skill-a-thon activity.

Contest Scoring

Your score is based on the three parts of the contest: 1-

Garment/outfit Evaluation (35 percent)

2-

Modeling and Presentation of

What’s the Skill-a-thon?

The clothing skill-a-thon is where you learn all about Total Look clothes...the fabrics, how they are made, how to care for (35 percent) them, how to select clothes and how to get the best buy. You will get a chance to: 3Clothing Skill-a-thon Score • identify and select fabrics (30 percent) • demonstrate laundry and care know-how! • make clothing choices and decisions on See the Garment and Modeling Scorecard how to look your best; at the back of the book. • look beyond the label– by selecting quality clothing! and depending on your division demonstrate your additional expertise and skill in either: e Construction Decisions, or e Consumer Buying Here’s how it will work. There will be three skill stations for you to complete. Station 1:

Fabric ID (odd years) or Clothing Care (even years).

Station 2:

Clothing Choices (every year)

Station 3:

Construction Decisions (every year) or Consumer Buying (every year)

There is a Leader’s Guide to the Contest with examples of how the skill-a-thons might be presented. If you are not a member of a 4-H Clothing Club or your leader has not helped you with this part of the contest, ask your 4-H Agent for a copy of this booklet to help you prepare for the contest.

The remainder of this booklet is a study guide for the topics you need to know for the skill-athon activities. Hopefully you have learned about some of these things through your other 4-H projects and activities. Remember, you will not be tested on your knowledge of clothing care and fabric identification except every other year; and you are only responsible for Construction Basics if you are entering the Construction Division and making your garment for entry.

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Know Your Fibers and Fabrics! Knits and Wovens

Learning about fabrics gives you confidence to make wise fabric choices, whether you are buying your clothes or making them. Which fabric should you buy? Which fabric will still look and feel good, even after you’ve worn it many times? How will you need to care for a garment made from this fabric? Or, how will you know if this fabrics performance will match the design of your selected pattern?

Knowledge of fabrics begin with learning how they are made. Fibers are where our fabrics and apparel begin. A fiber is the basic unit of textile raw material such as cotton, wool, etc. There are two basic types of fibers -natural (from plants and animals) and manufactured (from chemicals).

Fibers twisted together create yarns. A yarn is lots of fibers twisted together to foram a continuous stand which can be used to make fabric. Yarns may be a single strand, or two or more yarns twisted together. They may be small or large, rough or smooth and tightly or loosely twisted. Loosely twisted yarns make a fabric that will wrinkle. Tightly twisted yarns do not wrinkle as easily. Yarn differences create changes in appearance, durability and texture.

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Fabric Construction Fabrics are constructed from yarns through various fabric construction processes. The two most common forms of fabric construction are weaving and knitting. The way a fabric is constructed affects its durability, use, warmth or coolness, and appearance. A woven fabric is made by interlacing two sets of yarns. This is where the lengthwise yarns and crosswise yarns cross each other at right angles. They go over and under, back and forth. Lengthwise (warp) yarns form the foundation of the fabric and are usually stronger. They run parallel to the selvage, which is the finished edge. The selvage is made by doubling the number of lengthwise yarns. Crosswise (filling) yarns cross over and under each lengthwise (warp) yarn. A plain weave is the most common method of making fabric. It is a basic one-under and one-over combination of a lengthwise and crosswise yarn. Examples are taffeta, broadcloth, and organdy. The basket weave is a variation of the plain weave -- two or more yarns are carried together in a two under and two over weave. An example of a fabric woven with a basket weave is oxford cloth.

Another type of weave that you will recognize is a pile weave. It interlaces three sets of yarns in such a way that one set forms a loop on the surface. The loops may be cut as in corduroy and velvet or left uncut as in terrycloth.

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Knits Knitting is a method of fabric construction. Yarns are frequently texturized. This means that they have built-in crimps or coils that allow for some stretch in a fabric. Knit fabrics stretch. Some stretch in both directions, others will primarily stretch crosswise. Single knits are like hand knitting. They are sometimes called plain or jersey.

There are different types of knits just as in the weaves. But for now, you need to be able to recognize the differences in woven fabrics and knitted fabrics. At the Intermediate Level of the Clothing Event you will learn the different types of knits.

Fabric Textures Sight, hearing, smell and touch are all sensitive in some way to texture. Texture is the surface appeal of an object. Clothing texture can create several reactions. Your eyes respond to the look of the fabric. Your ears respond to the sound as the person moves. Your hands respond to how a fabric feels when you touch it. The way a fabric is constructed and the type of yarn used determines its texture. Every fabric has its own texture of feel, look, and sound. Frequently we refer to the "hand" of a fabric. This refers to the weight, thickness, and how the fabric drapes. Some comparison of fabrics could include terms such as coarse vs. fine, opaque vs. sheer, thin vs. bulky, soft vs. stiff, limp vs. crisip, cool vs. warm, shiny vs. dull, light vs. heavy, stretch vs. firm, spongy vs. firm, smooth vs. rough.

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Clothing Care Laundry Sorting Everyone has favorite clothes that they wear more often than others. Its frustrating when clothes you want to wear are in the laundry hamper waiting to be cleaned. Knowing the skills of laundry care will help you take care of your clothes. That means that your clothes will be ready to wear when you want them. Learning how to sort the laundry is one of the first steps in clothing care. “Sorting” is the where you group similar items for washing by the care needed. You sort laundry to separate clothing which could cause damage to other garments. Have you ever had white socks turn pink? This happens when a red and white garment are washed together. Sorting Laundry... How do you sort clothes? You combine items of a similar color, fabric type, garment construction, and amount of soil into groups that are suitable for the washer. These are some general guidelines for sorting laundry: Color: White items should generally be separated from colored garments. If the light-colored prints or pastel-colored items are colorfast, it is all right to combine them with white clothes. A colorfast fabric retains its original color without fading or running. Dark colors and very bright colors should be washed separately or combined with only items of similar color. Combining whites with bright or dark colors might result in color transfer. Color transferred to other items in the laundry may result in damage to the garment which cannot be fixed. Items which are not colorfast may need to be washed separately. Blue jeans, sweatshirts, and dark socks often fade in the laundry. It is important to wash them with items of similar color. Clothing Skillathon Guide

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Fabric: Some fabrics require special care. Delicate, less sturdy fabrics should be separated from other items (examples: loose knits, very sheer items, lace or delicate items). You probably would not want to wash a silk shirt with blue jeans.

Lint: Lint can be a problem when doing laundry. Certain fabrics are lint receivers such as polyester, nylon, and corduroy, while other fabrics are lint givers (terrycloth, flannel, sweatshirt fleece). If you do not separate lint givers from lint takers you will have balls on lint on your clothes.

Soil: Very dirty clothes (also called heavily soiled) should be separated from the rest of the wash to keep dirt from transferring to other items in the laundry.

Size: Very large, bulky items may need to be washed alone. Jackets, blankets, and bedspreads are often so large that they need a separate wash load.

If it is possible, you may do two loads of laundry instead of four if you have similar garments. The most important thing to remember is that you want clothes to come as clean as possible in the laundry while keeping their size, shape, and color. Permanent damage can result from not properly sorting your laundry. Make sure to always sort your clothes properly before doing your laundry.

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Washing Clothes... Now that we know how to sort our clothes, what are other important things about doing laundry do you need to know? Below are some good guidelines on how to do your laundry. The steps in washing your clothing are: ! sort clothing into "like" piles; ! check clothing carefully for "things" in pockets or a stain; ! zip zippers, button buttons; ! read laundry product labels and use recommended amount; ! fill washing machine, add laundry products; ! add clothing to be washed, do not overload; ! remove clothing promptly to prevent wrinkling; and ! put you clothing in the dryer or line dry it. Folding... Proper storage of clothing is important to prolong its life and for it to be ready to wear. Hand clean clothing that has been laundered or folded carefully before storing in a drawer to eliminate wrinkles. If placed on hangers for storage remember to button garment (at least every other button) and zip zippers. Be sure the garment is on the appropriate hanger and is centered on the hanger. To minimize wrinkling, do not crowd clothing into a closet or drawer.

References and Activities: T Helpers Guide Exploring Textiles and Sewing (4HCCA BU-7182), The Laundry Game, 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System T Junior High 4-H Clothing Judging Guide, University of Tennessee, Agricultural Extension Service T Fun With Clothes, Lesson 6 (all ages) - Laundry Freeze Frame, University of Florida

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Clothing Choices and Selection Line, Design and Color Basics

Our clothes tell people who we are and what we like. What do your clothes say about you? Clothes are important -- when you look good, you feel good. We use clothes to express ourselves. We have garments that are our favorites. Seasonal Influences... In many parts of the United States seasons of the year are more pronounced than in Florida. But in much of Florida we do see a change in the type of clothing worn in winter and summer. We think about wearing clothing to keep us cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Keep warm in cooler weather by: ! layering your clothing -- this keeps body heat in and cold air out. ! wearing fabrics that are thick, have a close weave, are quilted or have a nap. ! wearing garments with close-fitting necklines, cuffs (wrist and ankles), and waistlines, have long sleeves. ! selecting colors that are warmer, they absorb the sun's rays when you are outside. ! not wearing garments too tight, there is no place for warm body heat to circulate. ! wearing clean garments keeps you warmer rather than wearing dirty ones. Soil and body oils close air spaces, so insulating powers are lost. Keep cool in warmer weather by: ! selecting fabrics that are more absorbent. When they absorb perspiration, it evaporates and you will feel cooler. ! wearing cool colors if you are going to be outside, they reflect the sun's rays and cool colors will make you feel cooler -- they remind you of the trees (shade) and water. Clothing Skillathon Guide

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! selecting garments where air can circulate such as garments with large necks, armholes and legs; shirts and blouses are worn outside pants; skirts and dresses are cooler than pants, sleeveless garments are cooler. ! wearing clean clothes are cooler than dirty ones. ! wearing a hat.

Color... Color is what makes the clothes exciting. Can you imagine clothing in just white, black, or gray? Of course not! Everyone likes color and usually has a favorite one. All colors come from the three primary colors -- red, yellow and blue. Mixing two primary colors will give you the three secondary colors -- green, orange and purple. In learning the language of color you need to know that hue is the name of the color. This means "the name" (red, yellow), not a fashion name such as fire engine red or daffodil yellow. Color can communicate how you feel. A color can speak loud or softly. It can say you are happy or sad. It can say you are shy or bold. Red, orange and yellow are referred to as warm colors. They appear to advance and made objects look larger. Blue, green and violet are cool colors. They make objects look smaller. Line... Line is the most basic element of design and therefore the most important. It is the boundary of things. Lines are used to divide areas into shapes, forms, and spaces, provide direction, and provide movement. There are two types of lines -- straight and curved. Straight lines are forceful. Curved lines are softer and give a more graceful feeling. Both types of lines give direction either horizontal, vertical, diagonal or curved. Clothing Skillathon Guide

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Some effects of straight and curved lines are as follows: ! Vertical lines direct the eye up and down, add height, create an impression of poise and strength. ! Horizontal lines lead the eye across the garment, add width, suggest calmness, serenity, and gentleness. ! Diagonal lines express action, create a vertical or horizontal effect determined by how great the angle is. ! Curves give a feminine feeling and have a slight degree of roundness. Lines can be a part of the garment construction or fabric design. Learning to identify types of lines is your first step of using this principle. You will learn more about applying these for different effects in later 4-H project s. Designs... Fabrics can be solid colors or they may have different patterns. Some of the designs on fabric are woven or knitted in, and others are printed. The only way you can tell is by looking at the back of a fabric. Solids are just one color. Stripes are the least complicated and probably the oldest type of geometric fabric design. Stripes have lines -- horizontal or vertical, they may be even (same size and spacing) or uneven (different size/width and spacing). Plaids, too, come in a variety of plaid designs. A plaid design basically is one that has stripes crossing at right angles which may be evenly or unevenly spaced. The stripes are repeated in sequence. Prints can be anything -- whatever the designer decides on from bunnies to food items to flowers to trees. They can be an all-over design or widely spaced and very large. Knowing about different colors, designs, patterns, and seasons will help you to pick out clothes that are just right for you.

References and Activities: T Fun with Clothes, Lesson 4 - Seasonal Collage & Talking Colors; University of Florida T Discovering Choice (4HCCS BU-7360); Colorful Characters; 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System Publication

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Consumer Buying Buying T-shirts When you go to the store to look for clothes for back to school, what do you look for? Do you look for the color? The style? One important thing to look for when you are selecting your clothes is how well they are put together. This is called the construction of the garment. There are so many things to look for including fabric, seams, neckbands, stitches, hems, cut, and pockets. Looking for good quality in these items will help extend the life of your clothes. Below you will see the different things to look for in each of the categories you should look for quality. Fabric:

Look for firm, even, close knitting with loops which are rounded. The knit should be tight enough to be durable and loose enough to hang well. To identify quality fabric, develop your sense of touch. A general rule is the more yarns used or the closer the yarns, the more durable the fabric should be. The fabric should be free of flaws with no snags, pulls, thick or thin spots, and should be printed or woven on the grain.

Seams:

Are the seams finished? Most seams are finished but vary in seam width, evenness, closeness of stitches and durability of finish. Check for neatness where stitching thread should match and loose threads should be kept to a minimum. Crossed seamlines should match in addition to the fabric design (plaids and stripes) matching at seamlines Shoulder and neck seams should be reinforced with tape or an extra layer of fabric to stabilize the seam.

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Neckband:

The neckband should be a firm, rib knit that retains it’s shape after stretching. Sometimes it is reinforced with nylon for extra strength. The ribbing should conform to neckline shape without distortion. Look at the neckline seam to determine how ribbing is attached. An exposed neckline seam may cause some discomfort in wear.

Cut:

A generous cut or style is sign of quality. Look for longer lengths and a generous armscye for a comfortable fit. Avoid skimpy cuts.

Hems:

Hems should be even in width and sewn with sturdy matching thread. Hems should have some “give” to prevent breaking of stitches.

Topstitching:

Topstitching should be straight and even. Check for neatness with no highly visible loose threads.

Pockets:

Many T-shirts include a pocket (optional). Look for stabilization in the pocket area and reinforced stitching.

References & Activities T T

Junior High 4-H Clothing Judging Guide, Lesson 3, University of Tennessee Fun with Clothes, Lesson 5 - Let’s Go Shopping (adjust to needs), University of Florida

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Construction Basics Sewing Tools There are many important tools that you will need when you begin to sew . Some items are listed below and some are essential and others are optional. When buying your sewing tools, select good quality items. Be sure to properly store them to prolong their life and quality. You should always make sure that your sharp items are put away properly so that you don’t accidently hurt yourself or someone else. Most sewing aids are designed for the right-handed person. If your are left handed make sure that you buy tools that you can use. Some shears, irons, and measures have been designed for the left-handed person. Essential Tools ... Seam Gauge -- One of the handiest items in a sewing box. It is a ruler that is 6 inches and has a moveable slide. It is used for marking hems, seams and other areas. Tape Measure -- Should be treated fabric or plastic with metal tip ends. It is a 60 inch measure. Scissors -- have the same size handles and come in many different lengths. The most useful size is the small embroidery or craft for snipping threads and for working at the sewing machine or serger. are shaped differently to fit the hand comfortably. The blades are 6 to 12 inches long. Seam Ripper -- has a curved blade with a sharp point that easily slips under a stitch. It is used to rip out seams and looks similar to a pen. Remember always work away from both you and your fabric.

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Pins -- should be fine, sharp, and rustproof. Ones with plastic coated heads are easy to use and see, but may melt if ironed over. There are glass headed pins, too. They come in ballpoint, extra long, and extra fine. Thimble -- used to protect your finger when pushing the needle through the fabric. Thimbles come in a variety of sizes. They are made of plastic, metal, or leather.

Pin Cushions -- prevent spilled pins and are convenient. They are fabric covered and stuffed with sawdust or other material. Some people prefer to use a wrist pin cushion.

Thread -- needed for every sewing project. Types include cotton, cotton wrapped polyester, silk, and polyester. Select a color that blends with your fabric.

Hand Needles -- come in several sizes and types. The most common types for hand sewing are: ! sharps - which are average length with round eyes ! betweens - which are short needles with round eyes ! crewels (embroidery) - which are of average length and have long slender eyes Marking Pens -- come in several colors and should be washable. On some, the marking will disappear after a short period of time, others will stay until removed by washing or spritzing with water.

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Sewing Basics ... Once you have all of your materials that you will need to begin your sewing project, there are only a few more things that you will need to know before you begin your projects. The sewing basics are easy to pick up on and once you learn these skills you will be sewing in no time. How to Thread a Needle • diagonally cut a piece of thread about 18 inches long. Breaking the thread leaves fuzzy ends; these will not go through the needle easily. • grasp the needle between your thumb and finger. • brace your hand against the other hand. • moisten behind the eye of the needle. • push thread through the hole.

How to Tie a Knot • • • •

wrap one end of thread around forefinger. allow about ¼ inch lap over of thread. with thumb, "roll" these threads together. slip loop off finger and pull to end of thread.

How to Use a Thimble • • • •

place on the middle finger of the hand that holds the needle. hold needle between thumb and first finger. put needle into fabric. push through, using the side or end of the thimble.

How to Fasten the End of Hand Stitching • take a very small stitch and put your needle through the loop. • repeat two more times. • cut thread 1/2 inch from knots.

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Basic Sewing Stitches ... Overhand Stitch A stitch made by taking diagonal stitches over the fabric edge. It is used to hold two pieces of fabric together. Buttonhole Stitch A stitch is taken, the needle is inserted in the loop before pulling the stitch tightly and forming a knot on the edge. It is a strong stitch. A modified blind stitch is the same but stitches are further apart. Running Stitch A stitch that is made by going in and out of the fabric in even lengths. This is the most basic stitch for younger children to learn. With these tools and skills, all you need is a little creativity to make your own project like a bean bag, pillow, or a pin cushion. Good luck and happy sewing!

References and Activities: T Fun With Clothes; Lesson 1 - Tools of the Trade Bingo & Sewing Scavenger Hunt; University of Florida T Sew and Have Fun (4HCCS BU-7179); Tool Talk; 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System Publication

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Name:___________________________________ County:__________________________________

Clothing Construction, Selection and Fashion Revue Score Sheet E

T

G

F CONSTRUCTION CRITERIA & SCORE

T

T

Fabric Quality

JUDGES COMMENTS

1. Fabric content and fabric texture is suited to 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

T

T

T

garment design. Balanced grain No flaws in fabric construction Matching designs, centered, and balanced. Evenness of dyes. Care of fabric appropriate for garment function and design.

15 Points

Construction Quality 1. Construction neat in appearance. 2. Appropriate techniques for fabric. 3. Appropriate and neat seams, seam finishes and seam treatments for fabric and design. 4. Accurate, even stitching, matching of designs using balanced tension and matching thread. 5. Appropriate interfacing for fabric and design. 6. Smooth, even, and flat edges on collars, jackets, lapels, cuffs. 7. Inconspicuous facings and hems. 8. Enclosed seams graded. 9. Curves and points same shape and length. 10- Darts merge into fabric. 11. Smoothly set-on collar and set-insleeves 12. Appropriate and neat hem well- pressed.

20 Points

Fasteners 13. Neat and secure. 14. A appropriate for garment design. Notions/Trim 15. Appropriate for fabric and design SECTION 10: Fashion Revue Score Sheet Revised 11/00: Page 1 of2

E G F

PRESENTATION CRITERIA & SCORE

T T T Appearance

10 Points

JUDGES’ COMMENTS

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Smiles Well groomed, clean and neat Poised with good posture Garment becoming to individual Appropriate inner garments and accessories used to complete look 6. Modeling confidence in presenting garment

Design

10 points

10 Points

1. Fashionable 2. Becoming style 3. Appropriate notions and trims for fabric and function. 4. Appropriate pattern and fabric coordination 5. A total look

10 points

6. Pleasing proportion Fit

15 Points

1. Adequate ease 2. Hangs evenly 3. Smooth fit with no wrinkles or pulls.

15 points

CONSTRUCTION AND SELECTION SKILL- A-THON SCORE Station I: Fabric ID

Identify 10 Fabric Samples

10 Points

Station 2: Clothing Choices and Selection

Respond to a Clothing Decision-making Situation ....rank choices among four options given. 10 Points

Station 3: Construction Skill-A-thon

Station 3: Consumer Buying Skill-a-thon

Respond to a Construction Decision-making Situation

Consumer Buying Situation and Judging Class - Four garments Based on age: Juniors = t-shirts Intermediates=jeans

10 Points

10 Points

This score sheet was revised by Joy Cantrell Jordan, Associate Professor, Department of Family, Youth and Community Sciences,

SECTION 10: Fashion Revue Score Sheet Revised 11/00: Page 2 0f 2