A taste of

Tahiti

If Tahiti is heaven for foodlovers, it’s also paradise for

the gourmet traveller. Our foodie shares the flavour of island life, including a picnic so perfect she swam through sharks to get to it WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY julie le clerc

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y first sensation on arrival at the French Polynesian island paradise of Tahiti is one of being a world away from my everyday reality. This is evident from the moment I step from the plane at Fa’a’ā International Airport to be greeted by a ukulele trio playing island music. As they present me with a gorgeous floral necklace of scented tiare blossoms; I already feel like an island princess. A second flight takes me to Bora Bora, and following a trip on a private launch boat, I arrive at the St Regis Bora Bora Resort – which is bordered by lagoon and ocean, and is commonly described by visitors as ‘44 acres of heaven’. I settle into my spacious beachfront villa fitted with all the deluxe amenities you can imagine – including a positively palatial spa-like bathroom – as well as an on-call butler service. I have direct access to the lagoon, a fresh-water pool, hammock, secluded garden and gazebo; it’s so exciting I don’t know what to do first, so I resolve to try everything. I stroll the beach to feel the fine sand between my toes, then luxuriate in my private pool, before sunning myself in the hammock. Simply lounging around in such beautiful surroundings is a dream come true. Fully refreshed, I’m itching to explore more of this stunningly landscaped resort. As I wander down flower-edged paths, I’m met with beaming smiles

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and warm greetings of “la orana” (hello) from staff at every turn. This is a place where everyone remembers your name – and yet you can also hide away and enjoy total privacy. Near my villa, I discover the man-made ‘lagoonarium’ filled with tropical fish, and spend a pleasant hour snorkelling in the water. The fish are so friendly they swim right up to me and seem to welcome my company. Undoubtedly the main allure of Bora Bora is its remarkable beauty. The two towering, volcanic peaks of Mt Otemanu and Mt Pahia rise from the centre of the island, creating a dramatic backdrop to the landscape. A coral reef and one of the most stunning lagoons in the world surround the island. The lagoon’s waters are mesmerising, as they sparkle in every shade of blue, from pale turquoise through to deep cobalt. The next morning I’m picked up by a modern Polynesian-style outrigger boat and we set off on an excursion I’m more than a little apprehensive about. No matter how much I tell myself the sharks we’re about to swim with are the harmless, small, blacktip breed, the idea of getting into the water with them still jangles my nerves. While visiting Bora Bora has long been high on my bucket list, getting up close and personal with sharks isn’t something I ever planned on doing. Having passed several motus – tiny white-sand islands dotted throughout the lagoon – we reach our destination alongside the main island of Bora Bora. I slip into the water and float tentatively on the surface, while taking in the marine wonderland below. Stingrays gracefully glide right by me, and I spy small sharks nonchalantly going about their business. I dive a bit deeper to reach out and gently stroke a passing stingray. While I keep a healthy distance from the sharks, it’s exhilarating to see them in their natural habitat. Once safely back on board, I feel elated to have turned my fear into admiration for these awesome creatures. We’ve built up quite an appetite, so we stop at a private motu where our skipper prepares lunch; barbecuing marinated chicken, mahi mahi (a popular local fish), and homemade coconut bread. He also uses fresh ingredients to whip up a delicious batch of ‘poisson cru’: Tahiti’s national dish of raw tuna marinated in lime and coconut milk. We devour our picnic seated at the water’s edge, while feasting our eyes on the picture-postcard views across the lagoon and back to the volcanic peaks of Bora Bora. After a day on the ocean, I’m ready to unwind and enjoy a meal at one of the resort’s numerous restaurants that showcase Tahiti’s exotic flavours with a French gourmet twist. A standout is Lagoon, a Jean-Georges signature restaurant, where haute cuisine is crafted with clever use of flavours and presentation. I thought I’d feel conspicuous here, as a solo diner, but the good thing about being surrounded by honeymoon couples is they only have eyes for each other. As a dedicated foodie, I relish the freedom to

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focus on my own dining experience. During my stay, I also enjoy several excellent meals at the more relaxed Te Pahu restaurant, which offers beachside dining including breakfast: think flaky French pastries, tropical fruit jams, homemade yoghurt, and fabulous French omelettes, made to order. I won’t forget in a hurry the dish of local fish that is impressively cooked tableside on red-hot volcanic stones, and is served with a virgin vanilla sauce. On my last night, I discover Sushi Take and Sake Bar, an appealing Japanese eatery that makes some of the most elaborate and best sushi I’ve ever tasted. My raw tuna sushi is presented in the shape of a dragon and makes for a great light option on a warm evening. There are more than 100 islands in French Polynesia; and for a change of pace, I fly to Tikehau, which lies in the Tuamotu Archipelago. Breathtaking to view from the air, Tikehau atoll forms an enormous circle of pale sand linking palm tree-covered bits of land. After another boat trip we arrive at the secluded Pearl Beach Resort, where we’re met with a traditional conch shell blowing welcome and gifts of floral leis. This is a small establishment with a genuine Polynesian ambience. I am staying in a large, over-the-water bungalow which features a panel of glass in the floor for viewing passing sea-life, such as parrot-fish, reef sharks and rays… it’s just like snorkelling, but without getting wet. When I do feel like cooling off, I simply strap on a mask and flippers and step off the bungalow’s back deck and straight into the water. Tikehau is known as

The St Regis Bora Bora resort.

My bungalow features a panel of glass in the floor for viewing passing sea life

home to a large variety of fish species, and the warm, shallow, pristine water is the clearest I’ve ever seen. Hidden in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, Tikehau is truly remote and the utter luxury of this isolation makes disconnecting from reality fast and easy. As a bonus, I arrive just in time for the resort’s charming weekly cultural performance of local music and dancing, which is given by the staff, and is a real highlight of my stay. Each evening I watch the sun set in spectacular fashion from my private deck. I also discover much fun in feeding the fish at night from the glass floor panel, which opens up like a window. Only accessible by boat, and with bikes available for touring, the village of Tuherahera is worth a visit. It’s small – with a population of about 500 – and while

Tikehau’s clear, pristine waters. Right: The secluded Palm Beach Resort. Below: Breakfast at St Regis.

there’s not much here for shoppers except a couple of convenience stores, it’s very quaint and authentic. Cycling around, I discover simple thatched beach bungalow accommodation available for those who seek a more rustic place to stay. All too soon, it’s time to say goodbye to paradise. On departure, I’m given a farewell floral necklace and told that if I throw this into the ocean then I will be certain to return to these glorious islands. As I drop the flowers into the water, I find myself already dreaming of my next visit. Julie Le Clerc flew to Papeete courtesy of Air Tahiti Nui, www.airtahitinui.co.nz or phone (09) 308 3360 for latest airfare and holiday deals. Julie was a guest of Tahiti Tourisme, www.tahiti-tourisme.co.nz.

Below: A frangipane lei.

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See overleaf for recipe from Julie’s stay

We devour our picnic of barbecued chicken, fish and homemade coconut bread MAY 2013 | NEXT

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Island coconut bread 2 cups self-raising flour, sifted 1 tsp baking powder 1 cup desiccated coconut ¾ cup caster sugar 400g can coconut milk

Virgin vanilla sauce with grilled fish

This is our shark boat skipper Cheq’s amazing and delicious coconut bread recipe. 1 Preheat oven to 190°C. Spray cake tin with oil. Combine flour, baking powder, coconut and sugar in a bowl. Add coconut milk and stir to just combine (this is a scone-like mixture, so don’t over-stir or the bread will be tough).

2 medium tomatoes, peeled and finely

Poisson cru

diced, with seeds removed ½ cup finely diced pineapple

400g extremely fresh tuna, cut in

3 shallots, finely chopped

1.5cm dice

Scraped seeds from ½ Tahitian

½ telegraph cucumber, diced

vanilla pod

1 large tomato, diced with seeds removed 1 large peeled carrot, finely grated

1 kaffir lime leaf, finely chopped

2 Spread mixture into prepared tin. Bake for 20-30 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Remove to cool.

1 small onion, finely chopped 2 tsp finely grated ginger

4 x 150g portions white fleshed fish, such as hapuka or cod

3 To serve, cut into thick slices and toast

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Microgreens, to garnish

¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice ½ cup coconut milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lime, sliced, to garnish 1 Place tuna and vegetables in a non-

metallic bowl. Add lime juice, coconut milk and mix well for a minute or two, the lime juice will ‘cook’ the fish flesh and it will turn opaque. 2 Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Garnish with lime and serve immediately.

cup extra virgin olive oil

on a hot barbecue or grill until browned. Serves 8.

Thank you to Yann Mikolajczak, executive chef at Te Pahu restaurant, St Regis Bora Bora, for this recipe. 1 Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper, to taste. 2 Grill the fish portions until golden brown

and cooked through. Serve with Virgin vanilla sauce and garnish with microgreens. Serves 4.

What the locals know July, August and September are peak times to visit Tahiti. The daytime temperature is 2530°C, there’s little rain and the evenings are a little cooler. It is comfortable weather for light, summery clothing. The water temperature is also warm – perfect for a dip, anytime of day.

The central marketplace in Papette, one street back from the waterfront, is worth a visit. The building is classic French in style, but the goods on offer are distinctly South Pacific. The air is filled with the magical scent of vanilla, the aromatic bean (seed pod) valued for both its perfume and flavour, and used liberally in local dishes.

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The smaller islands are paradise, but there’s also much to see on the main island of Tahiti. From natural phenomena like cascades, a blowhole, lush vegetation (great for hiking) and excellent surf beaches, to shopping for black pearls, French wine and delicacies. They merit more than a day’s visit.

Choices for dining out are wide and varied. There are many excellent hotels and restaurants offering classic French food, as well as simpler options such as bistro and café fare, and roulottes (food trucks) that

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gather each evening at Place Vaiete, downtown Papeete. The food is cheap, with dishes including chow mein, crepes, galettes, crispy waffles with sweet or savoury toppings, sashimi, poisson cru, paella, pizza, and barbecue pork. It’s fun to try different dishes, then move to another roulotte for dessert. Make time for a wonderfully therapeutic Polynesian massage. Offered by most resorts, this massage uses natural, fragrant, tropical oils such as vanilla, tiare blossom, frangipane and coconut. It’s great for stressrelief and sun-kissed skin.

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