2012 season

Criteria for the Green Carpet Challenge www.eco-age.com [email protected]

} Green Carpet Challenge Designers Sourcing Guide: An introduction to the criteria for the Green Carpet Challenge (GCC)

Background: The Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) sprang into life in January 2010 when creative director of Eco Age, Livia Firth found herself thrown into the international awards season. Her husband the actor, Colin Firth, received the highest accolade at the Venice Film Festival for his role in A Single Man, directed by Tom Ford and was subsequently nominated for a raft of international awards including a Golden Globe, a BAFTA and an Oscar. Livia elected to wear and promote sustainable fashion at every one of these events, the first time an awards season wardrobe had been accomplished exclusively using sustainable style. The Green Carpet Challenge’s initial modest aim was to harness the excitement and attention surrounding the awards season and major film events to boost the profile of the newly emerging sustainable fashion movement. It quickly became evident that there was huge appetite for the story of Livia Firth’s journey bringing ethical fashion to the red carpet. Running the programme was an intense learning curve, catalogued in film and word, primarily on Vogue online and syndicated around the world. Year II of the GCC saw the initiative leap forward, and it attracted a large amount of press and public attention. Again Year II featured the Firths on another round of the international awards season for the movie The King’s Speech and again every designer worked through a series of ethical criteria to make a series of pieces for the Green Carpet Challenge. Season II of the GCC finished with the Met Ball and a piece by Stella McCartney, the first major designer to take up the GCC challenge. This year the Green Carpet Challenge evolves still further, building on the success and appetite of the first two years. The object of Year III is to work with the world’s top design houses and designers to produce a series of pieces that conform to the GCC criteria but showcase the unique talents and vision of the designer. These pieces will then be shown on a series of A-list stars during the international awards season. The Green Carpet Challenge is three years old and ready to help to transfer innovation and sustainability in fashion design to the red carpet where it can take the plaudits it deserves.

} Aesthetics and ethics

The Green Carpet Challenge thrives on working with the world’s greatest design professionals and design houses to realise a piece that matches aesthetics with ethics. This has never been achieved before at this level. Furthermore these are

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the pieces that will redefine sustainable innovation in fashion and set the agenda for years to come. That piece is matched with one of our A-list supporters to wear on the red carpet and created with that person in mind. It is the perfect combination of the A-list designer, brand and star in the interests of promoting environmental and social justice and design innovation.

} How we work

We work on three main levels: We consult and help to create the supply chain for a one off GCC piece with the design house, using our expertise and contacts. But we also focus on drawing out the existing sustainable elements from your supply chain that are already in place. The finished piece will represent an exemplar of sustainable innovation. We work with our A-list supporters and their support networks of agents and stylists to outline the issues inherent in fashion and the opportunities offered by a more sustainable approach. Much of the time our high profile ambassadors are interested in environmental and social justice issues (these could be summarized as ‘ethical’ issues) and looking for a way to make a more definite statement than or as well as driving a Prius! Similarly they are fashion ambassadors, keen to be at the forefront of style movements and innovation. Consequently the new sustained aesthetic represents the perfect fit. Of course this will only work providing garments are made by the designers they love and appreciate. We need them to feel secure that the GCC piece achieves the standard dictated by the red carpet which is one of the reasons we wish to work with you. Our ambassadors are well versed on the story behind the piece they wear during the GCC, equally at home talking about its amazing provenance as well as it style credentials in order to maximize publicity opportunities. We help to tell the story expertly. There is little doubt that fashion is a central story to the awards season, sometimes threatening to eclipse the movies themselves. There is however huge scope for coverage that offers another piece of the jigsaw. The coverage that we secure for the Green Carpet Challenge is considered, high quality and offers a new approach that broadcasters and media are keen to follow. In fact the GCC is all about the story, of producer, place, designer and the eventual beautiful conclusion of the red carpet piece (often there is a further philanthropic conclusion when GCC gowns are auctioned for charity). We are expert at finding these stories – from beads salvaged from the 1930s through to the use of novel, ecologically sourced fibre or a lace that has revived a local industry. There may also be positive stories in your own supply chain that you wish to be highlighted by the GCC and we can help to give them air. These are the stories that give sustainable style resonance and help to progress the issues.

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We work with your press office and PR experts to marry these stories with your own brand values. Being part of the GCC story indicates a degree of transparency and engagement that is a world first. It is a huge signal towards a new paradigm. This is a design and producer centric story completely different to the antagonistic relationship between activists and defensive brands. The emphasis in all GCC events is on the progressive and innovative nature of our relationships with designer, star and event and taking these stories to a wide and appreciative audience.

} What constitutes a Green Carpet Challenge piece

The fact that the GCC is a ‘challenge’ is acknowledged in the title. We are asking for design ingenuity and innovation that prioritises social and environmental justice along with the aesthetic. All three will be on an equal footing. There is no legal or agreed definition of sustainable style or ethical fashion.

} Core criteria To create a GCC piece a design house must follow a series of core goals, namely: That all materials used are of the lowest possible ecological footprint (as confirmed by lifecycle assessment). This includes certified natural fibres (see appendix 1) and novel eco fibres (appendix 2) and synthetics with a proven lifecycle assessment record where necessary. An acknowledged and transparent supply chain has been used to create GCC pieces. This includes that all producers and every worker along the supply chain has been paid what constitutes a Living Wage and worked in appropriate and verifiable working conditions. That all materials used in the piece are traceable and free from deforestation, pesticide abuse, toxicity.

Extra criteria

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} Extra criteria

In addition we ask that each one off piece should incorporate at least two (preferably more) of the following sustainable credentials; as well as boosting the ethical credentials of the piece, this helps us to market the story. Be made for easy disassembly or reuse so that the constituent parts may be recycled or transformed. You may wish to follow a holistic sustainable design system such as Cradle to Cradle. Incorporate salvaged or reclaimed fibre or material. The process used to transform this discarded or surplus material into a one off piece, adding value through design is referred to be the GCC as Upcycling. (connected to above) Design to minimize waste. It is estimated that 15 per cent of material is lost during the pattern cutting process – this varies between studies but there is a clear opportunity to reduce waste during the design and assembly phases offered by Zero Waste techniques. Include bona fide vintage elements and accessories and embellishment that have been repurposed for the piece. (NB vintage pieces need to be unsalvageable in their original guise before being taken apart). The use of rare, heritage or low input fibres, materials, techniques and skills. The rationale behind this is that GCC accepts a variety of evidence showing how many cultures and regions across the world (in the North and the South) are losing textile skills and therefore the infrastructure to replace these skills. In the interests of sustainability the GCC maintains a bias towards small scale artisanal production. The use of low-impact production processes such as exhaust printing/dyeing or air-dyeing. The use of highly novel short life textiles that are compostable and return nutrients to earth after use. In some cases the designer might wish to incorporate Better Technologies that are resource aware. According to TED’s Ten for Sustainable fashion these might include low-impact laser techniques for re-surfacing polyesters, sonic welding for binding seams instead of threads and nanotechnologies for coating fabrics in specific cases these may allow for a distributed, lighter manufacturing process. The use of cutting edge conceptual theory such a catalytic clothing or soluble nitric acid fibre as pioneered by designer Helen Storey and scientist Tony Ryan, realized in a one-off piece. (notes: other proponents of sustainable design prioritise Biomicry in design.

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Biomimicry, a term coined by biologist Janine Benyus takes models from the natural world and transposes them to design. A famous example is Velcro, inspired by burs that commonly occur in nature. While the GCC considers biomimicry a good and interesting story (and one that can be marketed) we’re not overly convinced that it alters the paradigm sufficiently. So while GCC pieces inspired by nature are very much welcome, we’re looking for the points from above to be matched first. We are also able to consult with Life Cyle Assesment or carbon accounting professionals in order to quantify the environmental or emission savings of using some of these processes).

} Maximising the potential of the GCC

By contributing a piece to the GCC a top level designer is making design history and moving the agenda forward in a way that nobody else can. We think this is about as positive a move as it is possible to make in fashion at the moment and will be hugely inspiring. But we don’t underestimate the challenge element (we even reference it in our title!). We work with several professional sector leaders on ethical sourcing, traceability and transparency and how to transpose these important steps into a production line. We consistently find that design houses are surprised by what their suppliers already have in place and how many sustainable goals they already reach. We can help to collate this information and expertise, providing context for the stories of good supply chain that you are already using. We find the concepts and practices that work best for your brand. The goal is always a piece for the Green Carpet Challenge and we are focused on the positive story. With our expert contacts, we are fully conversant in sustainable design practice and theory and can match you with the easy wins as well as helping to iron out any more persistent issues where appropriate.

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} Certification and terms Appendix 1

In the GCC we work with and without it . Sometimes we find it a useful tool, sometimes we prefer to rely on our own contacts and common sense. However certification is particularly useful when dealing with fibre where agencies are well established and have carried out thorough Life Cycle Assesment to prove the environmental and social justice benefits of one fibre over another. These are some examples of standards and terms. The GCC we can help you to navigate these terms and others for effective ethical sourcing. Sustainable textiles – Natural fibre materials where the core fibre is farmed in a sustainable manner and further processes such as spinning, washing and dyeing are carried out with as low an impact on the environment and water resources as possible. Examples are hemp, Tencel, peace silk and some wools. Certifications such as Oeko Tek apply here. Organic cotton – Grown without the use of pesticides and synthetic fertiliser, preventing damage to soil and waterways, as well as those working in the fields. Organic cotton farmers often receive a premium for their harvest – to guarantee this look for Fairtrade and Organic. Most recognized ‘Organic’ certifications are from: GOTS - http://www.global-standard.org Soil Association - http://www.soilassociation.org Up-cycled – Garments made from textiles with a lower value (it might be an off-cut, dead-stock or redundant garment) are upcycled so that the value is increased by the design process. Recycled – Yarns and fabrics made from fibre or core material that has been ‘rescued’ from another waste stream. For example recycled polyester yarn (PET) from waste plastics. Fair trade / Fair labour standards (including Fairtrade Foundation) – Increasingly as well as foot printing products and processes in the textiles chain (to determine ecological impact) we are asked to assess the labour rights and wages of those working on the production of a piece. Often brands work with ‘fairly traded’ suppliers who are not certified but who do practice sound employment policies. Other certifications to look for are SA8000.

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} A question of fibre Appendix 2

Over the last two years in the GCC we have developed expertise in sourcing great fibres. We also work with a number of close contacts who have huge experience in asking the right questions about fibre origin. We are adept at finding fibre that is authentic and sustainable with as low impact as possible. In addition our fabrics are often helping to support genuinely sustainable livelihoods for producers. They can therefore be termed the real deal. The following gives a hint of the fibres and the processors and companies we work with for the Green Carpet Challenge. We are able to offer an extra consultancy service to help realise projects for the GCC including fabric matching, detailed project planning and custom sourcing. Silk – We work predominantly with Organic, Peace and traceable silk. Our first aim is to ensure the mill in question processes waste-water and chemicals in a environmentally safe way adhering to international standards and protocols. Synthetics – We use Life Cycle Assesment to show the benefits of synthetics from recycled materials. Look for recycled (PET) to OEKO-TEK standard. Viscose – We trust a number of FSC, OEKO-TEK certified factories operating on loop system (reclaiming all water and chemical waste). Cashmere – We carefully source from traditional herdsmen in Outer Mongolia and specific smallscale herds (to ensure sustainability and amazing quality). We use some ‘Organic’ certified wool and traceable wools from New Zealand and Australia. In addition there are Fairly Traded yarns and products from South America (Alpaca etc) and British wools in certain weights. Cotton – We have carefully evaluated the most precious certification systems for cotton. We use only Organic certified, Fairtrade or BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) cotton. Leather – We recommend using hides that are tanned using natural tanning and non chemical processes and superior certified hides that have a coherent set of records (such as from Southern Germany). We are currently very excited to be working on a supply chain for deforestation-free leather that will offer an important extra resource for the fashion industry.

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Recommended textile suppliers: Lenzig - http://www.lenzing.com/en/fibers/tencel.html Its Organic - http://its-organic.de/stoffe/fg O Eco Textile - http://www.oecotextiles.com/index.php Pickering International - http://www.pickhemp.com/index.html Envirotextile - http://envirotextile.com/index.html Jasco - http://www.jascofabrics.com Alkena - http://www.alkena.com.cn/alkena/en/products.asp Aurora - http://www.aurorasilk.com C.L.A.S.S. - http://www.classecohub.org/ Source For Style - http://source4style.com

} Contacts

This overview is an introduction into the criteria and some of the resources available to our design partners for the Green Carpet Challenge. We would be delighted to tell you more about our work and to discuss any particular areas in the supply chain that could do with extra help or focus. The Green Carpet Challenge was founded by Livia Firth and Lucy Siegle. Jocelyn Whipple provides our production and technical core. In addition we work with PR and marketing professionals and engage consultants with expertise in specific areas. For more information or to reach Livia, Lucy or Joceyln please contact [email protected] and [email protected].

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