AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15 Paris 1 – Pretty In Pink 1. J C de Castelbajac 2. Chloe 3. Shiatzy Chen 4. Elie Saab 5. Nina Ricci 6. Giambattista Valli

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As we saw in New York, a trend for frosted pales has emerged for next winter but in Paris, it takes on a pretty pink hue that epitomises the elegant femininity of classic French dressing. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac appliquéd fur trim onto a tailoring weight to create fluffy line art on a DB coat style, while at Chloe, mauve pink shearling is worked into a belted kimono-sleeved coat silhouette. A cropped swing coat at Shiatzy Chen and mixed fur style at Elie Saab have a vintage glam feel while at Nina Ricci, an edge-to-edge coat look is recoloured in plum pink and a DB fit-and-flare silhouette at Giambattista Valli is worked into a barely there pale pink astrakhan for a clean contemporary appeal.

Paris Trend 2 – Long Haired Furs 1. Alexander McQueen 2. Tsumori Chisato 3. Sacai 4. Hermès 5. Lanvin 6. Sharon Wauchob

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A huge trend at the Paris shows was for long-haired furs with key designers like McQueen and Lanvin leading the fashion brigade. Snippets of white fox were painstakingly appliquéd onto a sheer dress to create a feathered effect at Alexander McQueen while at Tsumori Chisato and Hermès, dyed goat hair was used as a statement collar detail and for an edge-to-edge coat silhouette. Sacai mixed contrasting cream Mongolian lamb and black leather for an update on the biker jacket while at Lanvin and Sharon Wauchob, steel grey goat hair and forest green curly lamb are worked into chubby coat looks that sit perfectly in our Elemental trend’s colour palette for next winter.

Paris Trend 3 – Biker Babes 1. Anthony Vaccarello 2. Jean Paul Gaultier 3. Irfe 4. Sacai 5. Paul & Joe 6. Wunderkind

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Throughout the collections, biker jacket looks have continued as a key silhouette direction but what looked new in Paris was the use of longer haired fur handles to give this classic style a softer tactile-touch update. As seen at Anthony Vaccarello and Jean Paul Gaultier, shearling is still a key fur handle, worked here in contrasting black & white and in a metallic finish. Newer looking, a leather front look with longer haired body and sleeves at Irfe or the Mongolian lamb and leather moto update with Prince of Wales Check hem at Sacai. Sheared and plucked furs add a luxe touch to classic biker looks at Paul & Joe and Wunderkind for plush update that taps into the trend for Teddy Bear fur handles that we saw come through at the London shows.

Paris Trend 4 – Modernist Looks 1. Akris 2. Celine 3. J C de Castelbajac 4. Luis Buchinho 5. Miu Miu 6. Sacai

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At the Paris collections, the trend for abstract expression took on a decidedly modernist appeal with designers like Akris and Celine opting for graphic colour blocking to make a statement while at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, contrasting fur trim was applied as line art on a minimalist tunic look for an expressive appeal. Print and pattern at Miu Miu had a splattered painterly feel on a black and white curly lamb coat while at Luis Buchinho and Sacai, asymmetrical fur/fabric combinations created dimensional effects on a sporty wrap front jacket style and DB coat silhouette.

Paris Trend 5 – Exaggerated Proportions 1. Undercover 2. Isabel Marant 3. Barbara Bui 4. Sacai 5. Tsumori Chisato 6. Gareth Pugh

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As forecasted in our Atelier trend, artistic expression through line and form is a key direction for next winter and in Paris, we saw exaggerated proportions make a strong statement with the emphasis on creating a unique point of view. Undercover went all-out oversized with a grooved fur wrap while at Isabel Marant and Barbara Bui, elongated shoulder definition created interesting proportions for a lamb gilet and fur sleeved biker jacket. Sacai and Tsumori Chisato relied on fur placement in mixed lengths to construct abstract moto jacket inspired silhouettes while at Gareth Pugh, an over-scaled cap sleeve gilet look in white-on-white had minimal modernist appeal.

Paris Trend 6 – Welcome To The Jungle 1. Balmain 2. Acne 3. Wunderkind 4. Givenchy 5. Yves Saint Laurent 6. Chloe

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As we have seen throughout the collections, animal spotted and striped furs continue as a strong print direction for next winter and if the Balmain show was anything to go by, safari chic will be a huge editorial trend for fall. Jungle meets hip-hop for a form-fitting jacket in printed ponyskin latticed with gold chain at Balmain while at Acne and Wunderkind, animal printed furs get worked into a funnel neck tunic and easy throw-on coat style. Ladylike looks at Givenchy and Chloe are contrasted by bold mixed fur/leopard print coat silhouettes while at Yves Saint Laurent, a classic 70s DB jacket shape is given a modern update in printed tiger stripe sheared fur.

Paris Trend 7 – Caped Fur Looks 1. Gareth Pugh 2. Elie Saab 3. Nina Ricci 4. Nina Ricci 5. Yves Saint Laurent 6. Alexander McQueen

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As we saw in New York and Milan, caped fur looks are a strong trend for next winter and in Paris the story continued in a mostly streamlined and contemporary fashion with the exception of Alexander McQueen, where a hooded full fur cape look had a feral Red Riding Hood feel. At Gareth Pugh and Elie Saab, caped shoulder definition added dimension to modern tailoring while at Nina Ricci, fur placement added a vintage caped shoulder feel to a minimal zip front style. Also at Nina Ricci, a superhero cape silhouette gave modern two-piece dressing a sporty touch while at Yves Saint Laurent, a 60s inspired look in plush sheared fur had a bit of a caped crusader feel to it as well.

Paris Trend 8 – Raw Fur Looks 1. Rundholz 2. Givenchy 3. Isabel Marant 4. Gareth Pugh 5. Alexander McQueen 6. Lanvin

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Rustic or raw-edged fur looks first made an appearance in New York but came through the strongest on the catwalks of Paris with designers like Rundholz using full pelts to accessorise a two-piece military look, Givenchy opted for a cropped shell top and fur armbands while at Isabel Marant, a gilet style with elongated shoulderline was given a rustic touch in red fox. At Givenchy, a raw-edged cape and dress look made a dramatic statement in white-on-white shearling while at Alexander McQueen, graphic black and white skunk had a tribal feel and at Lanvin, a tunic/skirt silhouette was given a contrasting fox neckline for a modern primitive appeal.

Paris Trend 9 – Sleek Urban Sheepskins 1. Gareth Pugh 2. Luis Buchinho 3. Anthony Vaccarello 4. AF Vandevorst 5. Sacai 6. Barbara Bui

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As we saw with the menswear collections, sheepskins and shearlings have become a key fur handle for sleek urban styling and in Paris, the trend came through as a strong look for next winter. Leading the pack was designer Gareth Pugh with a raw-edged sleeve and collar detail on a streamlined tailoring silhouette, while at Luis Buchinho, an throw-on jacket shape with asymmetrical front was given a graphic groove effect. More traditionally, Anthony Vaccarello and AF Vandevorst worked shearlings into a black and white zip front coat and hoodie style while at Sacai and Barbara Bui, longer-haired sheepskins were used for an oversized biker jacket and edge-to-edge coat silhouette with asymmetrical hemline for urban updates on the classic chubby.

Paris Trend 10 – New Nostalgia 1. Lanvin 2. Nina Ricci 3. Givenchy 4. Elie Saab 5. Givenchy 6. Christian Dior

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And finally, in Paris there was a definite sense of nostalgia for classic femininity and although this mood has its roots planted firmly in the past, it came through in a thoroughly modern way. Clean crisp tailoring was layered with a vintage-inspired shrug in steel grey fox while at Nina Ricci and Givenchy, fur placement added a dimensional touch to a cropped knit cardigan and textural contrast to a neatly cut coat style in pale blush pink. A caped bolero look at Elie Saab in plush sheared mink worked over a pleated micro-mini suit look for an interesting mix of old meets new, while at Givenchy and Christian Dior, lean tailoring silhouettes were worked into classic retro-inspired fur handles like leopard spot (printed) and astrakhan in modern metallic grey.