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Tourism
Sustainable Tourism
The Way Forward In today’s world, the mantra is sustainability, irrespective of the economic activity that you are in. And this is a challenge for tourism, considered to be by far the fastest growing industry in the world. India, too, is slowly waking up to the opportunities that sustainable tourism presents and seems to be moving in that direction, even though with plenty of hitches and glitches as Christine Nayagam reports from New Delhi and several other corners of India.
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I
ndia’s Tourism Secretary Sujit Banerjee is a rare Indian bureaucrat who speaks his mind clearly and loudly. As the person charged with the responsibility of ensuring that tourism industry in India continues its enviable growth path – having doubled in the space of five years – Banerjee admits that at times he finds himself facing huge challenges in ensuring that while the industry grows, it becomes sustainable.
“Personally I can tell you that I am an environmentalist myself and recently I held a meeting when I was discussing about our tigers and the clear cut division came that for tourism you have to this and for environment you have to do this. I told them that I am not going to talk like Secretary Tourism, today I want to do something for the preservation of our beautiful animals and I don’t care if my tourism suffers. So we are taking some decisions and trying to
push them but it’s a very difficult task. People only care about how they will get more tourists but one day they will be no tiger, no Bandhavgarh, no Kanha and nobody will come! I will take measures and fight for the preservation of our country’s nature and heritage even if it goes against our tourism ethics!’’ In a report in 2004, the World Tourism Organization laid down the principles of sustainable tourism -- environmental,
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Tourism Some sustainable tourism spots in India 1
economic and socio-cultural aspects of tourism development. A suitable balance must be established between these three dimensions to guarantee its long-term sustainability. Its importance lies in its objective which is to conserve resources and increase and preserve local cultures and traditions. The principles of sustainable tourism lay especial emphasis on the participation of local communities at tourism destinations. Here, the active involvement of local people is the critical success factor in sustaining momentum. Ideally, local communities should reap direct benefits from tourism development as reflected by the expansion of local business opportunities. Training and education programmes play an important support role here as they help to improve cultural heritage and the management of natural resources. Banerjee says one of the biggest challenges for sustainable tourism in India is the Indian psyche. “I don’t know why but we Indians have this habit… When we go abroad do we throw a paper or spit on the ground? Coming back to our own country we do those very strange things without any fear. Obviously these are the methods of policing and enforcement that exist abroad but that unfortunately we don’t have in India. Our police and authority are not able to ensure that. So how to do it? There is only one way to do it. It is for people to understand. There should be social awareness and this is what we are doing. We started last year and continuing this year an advertisement campaign with Aamir Khan where we ask people to treat our tourists well and not throw garbage everywhere, not draw graffiti on our monuments and not misbehave with the tourists when they come. In our enthusiasm to catch the tourist in our taxi or be a guide we turn into you know demons, monsters.’’ While the government has launched programmes on educating the masses to tackle this challenge, it is also moving ahead in actually launching and monitoring sustainable tourism projects. It is using the 34
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Sujit Banerjee, Secretary Tourism: A vocal advocate of sustainable tourism unique strength of India – 60 percent of India lives in villages with their thriving culture, tradition and heritage – to promote rural tourism in a big scale. It recently
“I will take measures and fight for the preservation of our country’s nature and heritage even if it goes against our tourism ethics!’’ launched a very complete coffee table book on rural tourism called “Explore Rural India”, in collaboration with the United Nations Development Programme and it tries to look at the USP of a village. The book looks for art and crafts of these villages which need to be promoted and even preservation of a dying art. Banerjee says that the government has involved the village communities in this process. And most important, it has involved the women of
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these villages and empowered them. It has been such a successful venture that now the ministry of tourism has extended the programme to 103 more sites making 139 sites. “So it has come up very well and we have taken up a group of journalists to a rural tourism site in Himachal Pradesh called Naggar and you should see the reports that they gave, they said that they stayed in these beautiful locations, near a flowing river and the villagers were making handicrafts… it was like heaven!,’’ gushes Banerjee. These sites are situated in 20 states and the government has set a lot of parameters, knowing that all villages in India will claim that they have a USP. For example there is a village in Kerala with a dying art of making mirrors and now the art has received a major boost through the government support.“There is a feeling that India has taken a real lead in the promotion
1) Haryana 2) Uttarakhand 3) Brahmaputra Jungle Resort, Assam 4) Dhole’s Den, Bandipur 5) Kurumba in the Nilgiris 6) Kerala
of rural tourism and we can advise other countries,’’ he laughs, adding it is the best way to preserve traditions. “Absolutely! For example there is this village I visited in Samode in Rajasthan where they were making bangles and leather products and their income have gone up 300% in three years. And we also keep the vernacular
architecture so that the charm of these villages is preserved.’’ The private sector and civil society too have got involved across the length and the breadth of India as is clear from the examples in the following pages. In fact, Kerala has even hosted international discussions and seminars on sustainable/
responsible tourism. Way back in 2006, the International Centre for Responsible Tourism - India (ICRT India) -- part of a growing network of International Centres on Responsible Tourism – was launched in Bangalore. The centres share a common objective, to work with the private sector, government and local communities to “take responsibility for achieving sustainable tourism, and to create better places for people to live in and for people to visit.” Yet the challenges for India remain. Numerous studies point out that it is imperative to gain control over pollution, environmental and ecological hazards and cultural degradation and focus on sustainable tourism. The government also recognizes that excessive exposure of ecologically fragile areas to human interference can lead to environmental degradation. To check the indiscriminate growth of tourism, the local population must be convinced of the need to support regulations in the interest of long-term sustainability. Many ofIndia’s hill resorts have already suffered a lot due to lack of concern for capacity management. The government clearly needs to push ahead to ensure that India does not plunge into the crevice of a booming tourism industry, one that is not responsible, not sustainable.
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Tourism
Haryana
Holidaying With Nature
With a proliferation of high tech buildings and the constant extensions of cities that are already bursting at the seams, a break in the midst of natural settings is a dream occasion for getting over the stress and pollution that daily life in the modern cities brings. Taking in a breath of fresh air and prancing about in the herbs and shrubs. Vacatons in the countryside and villages are today a must on your schedule. Go on a voyage that takes you on a discovery of the rural face of a very traditional India. It is barely 7 in the morning, but the farmers are already up and about in their fields and the cows are headed towards the village pond in a very orderly queue. We are in Haryana and its landscapes dominated by farming fields, barely 30 km from New Delhi. Located in the districts of Faridabad, Gurgaon, Rohtak and Karnal, a number of 36
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‘homes’ welcome tourists to enable them to discover the benefits of nature and the pure air in the fields of the Indian countryside. The period between August and March is perhaps the best suited for such a discovery that will also show you the best that the nature has in terms of flora and fauna. Being early in the morning, it is an ideal moment for a ride on a tractor, a horse, a bullock cart or even a bicycle. The ride will enable you to indulge in some bird watching, or to see the blooming fields with their rich harvest or young saplings as well as the farmers and their cattle already working in the fields. Atop the bullock cart, the bullock begins to pull the wooden cart on which we are sitting. We start moving towards the fields with their ripe, golden crop of wheat, swaying gently in the early morning breeze, with a clear blue sky and a brightly shining spring sun to give us company. The chirpings of the birds and the cool breeze enhance the pleasure of this discovery. A team of workers is already in the fields, armed with their sickles, to
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Village Values harvest the crop, which has yet again been bountiful as Haryana, along with neighbouring Punjab, continue to live up to its sobriquet of ‘Granary of India’. Women, dressed in their long, brightly-coloured sarees, use their sarees to cover their head as a protection against the sun and carry stacks of harvested wheat on their heads. We are right in a typical morning in rural India. We also join in and try to harvest the wheat. We manage, but the time that it took us to get a handful of wheat stalks, the farm workers harvested a head load. We give up competition and head towards the edge of the field where a banyan tree, dating back to over 100 years, offers us some welcome shade and respite from the April sun that is already beginning to heat up. Under the shade are beds, made of coir and typical of the kind that you can see anywhere in rural India. The beds allow us to lie down and get a shut-eye in this serene environment.
A soft chirping of the bird welcomes us to the Golden Dunes Retreat. It is located on the periphery of the Sultanpur bird sanctuary which receives thousands of birds every year, from as far away as Siberia and other parts of the world and who find an excellent refuge, notably during the winters. The Golden Dunes brings together all that is beautiful about nautre and in a space that is peaceful and pleasant. Spread over 45 acres, full of greenery and with a number of wild flowers, the Golden Dunes invites you to meditate and contemplate a perfect and complete fusion with nature. For experiencing the life on a farm, head to the neighbouring village. It is here, in the midst of the local population that we discover the true values which guide life in rural India, even today. While some tourists try their hands at milking the cows and buffaloes, others are inclined to try to learn about the wild flowers and herbs and understand the medicinal values of these plants.There is also a workshop to learn pottery as well as a place to discover the artisanal products manufactured by the local populace. The farm life is so full of surprises. But more than anything else, it teaches you how with natural products, very simple and baic materials and a good hand, we can make so many artisanal products which are no less in appeal than the masterpieces of art.
Connecting with the spirit Plunging into a true mud bath is perhaps everyone’s dream today. Surjivan
Resort, on the Jaipur road, offers you a complete treatment with plants and 100 percent natural techniques. For an authentique stay in the heart of a village recreated according to the ancient doctrines or shastras (a sanskrit word for education and knowledge), with a collection of plants from all over the world, cottages made entirely of mud, a traditional cuisine. All of these go into making theambience of a true Haryana village and all the pleasures that it brings you. Discover your mud cottage, which is a perfect example of traditional knowledge scoring over the modern technology. Since mud homes keep the house cold in summer and warm in the winters, with a temperature difference of nearly 15-20 degrees in the blazing summers or freezing winters. The cottages have been decorated with frescoes designed by local artists with natural colours. Being here also means an end to the modern life technologies like mobile phones, televisions, radios and the beginning of traditions like contemplation, meditation, relaxation and outdoor sports. The food here is entirely fresh and traditional since the cooking is done exactly as it would be in a traditional house in rural Haryana. The process begins in the plantation, in a special garden where vegetables are grown, these are hand picked and then cooked in wooden ovens and vessels. The taste, naturally, is completely different from what you would experience and it awakens all your taste buds, with a nutritious meal served in a very pleasant environment.
A garden with ayurvedic plants is a proof that it is indeed possible to grow medicinal herbs and plants even in your own kitchen garden. A guided visit tells us of the miraculous character of several of the plants which have been used by millions of Indians for several centuries. We are also allowed to test some of these on ourselves on the spot. The sap of a fresh aloevera plant has a gluish character and it goes inside your skin softly and naturally, rendering your hands softer than ever, without making your hands sticky or oily. A true discovery for us! To end your day, what better than a local cultural show. Village dancers get together to mount a folk dance, dressed in their colourful Haryanavi dresses. Sitting around a fire, with a warm and entertaining ambience. The traditional dances and music of Haryana are a pleasure and soon everyone joins in. The night ends with the resonating sounds of sitars and tabla, while we dance barefeet in the light of a brilliant full moon, carried away by the magic of the village life.
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Tourism
Karnataka: Bandipur
Entering the Dhole’s Den In the midst of the wildlife reserve of Bandipur in southern Karnataka, Karthik Davey, launched the first luxury tourism resort in Bandipur. It is a unique initiative for several reasons, not least because Dhole’s Den is run entirely as a eco-friendly, natural resort, with its own solar power, windmill, water recycling and waste treatment facilities. waste water is treated in reed beds so that the resulting waste water is odourless and can be used for farming in the vegetable garden which supplies the resort’s kitchen with organically grown products.
Dhole’s Den and wildlife
The name Dhole’s Den is derived from the Dhole, the Asiatic wild dog (Cuon alpinus). For many years it was hunted down as vermin but it is one of the most fascinating hunters in the Indian jungle with a complex and unique social hierarchy. The Dhole lives in packs and is perfectly organised under the leadership of an alpha male and alpha female. The population of the Dholes has been decimated in the various national parks in India and a notable population remains only in national parks like Kanha, Periyar and Nagerhole and of course Bandipur. Davey says that at Dhole’s Den his endeavour is to emphasise the importance and the beauty of this animal which stands in the shadow of bigger and well-known animals like the tiger, leopard or elephant and win support for the conservation of the jungle in Bandipur with the dhole as its mascot. What is so special about Dhole’s Den when compared to other eco-friendly houses? Eco-consciousness begins with doing away of modern luxury which means there are no air conditioners, televisions, telephones, tea and coffee makers nor refrigerators in the rooms. To start with 38
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most of the electricity is generated by a wind turbine and solar cells. The switches are clearly marked allowing you to use renewable energy to the maximum. The kitchen waste is turned into bio gas in the bio gas digester, which uses an age old method which was used even in the Indus valley civilization until recently rediscovered. The
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The lodge is in the vicinity of small villages bordering the Bandipur National Park. Nevertheless the wild animals of the park are close enough to be even heard. Be it the sloth bear with its cubs at night or elephants and the wild boar, the roar of the tiger or the growl of a leopard, none are ever too far away. Species in the park include Asian or Indian elephant (Elephas maximus), Gaur (Bos gaurus), four-horn antelope, tiger (Panthera tigris), leopard, wild dog (Cuon alpinus), hyena, Sambhar (Cervus unicolor), Chital (Axis axis), muntiac, sloth bear, wild boar, Python, several species of monkeys and birds. Our own stay at Dhole’s Den became memorable for the numerous safaris that we ventured on during the brief 3-day sejour at the resort. We sampled practically
all the possible moments of tracking the extremely rich wildlife in Bandipur, which is believed to be housing the second largest tiger population in India and also a very rich collection of leopards, elephants, bear, bisons and of course the spotted Indian deer. Our very first outing turned out to be extremely exciting and enriching. Wake up is set for 04:30 am and we leave for the Park in pitch darkness. We are in the Park in a matter of few minutes and are transferred to the official safari vehicles of the Park. The dawn is just about breaking and we are told it is one of the best times to spot the carnivores as they call it a day and the early birds who have already gathered. After nearly half an hour of driving on the rough roads, we turn lucky. We find ourselves in front of a small elephant family, gently marching through the semi-arid plantation which abounds in the park. A few minutes later, we are told by our guide to strain hard on the top branch of a tree, barely 100 m away from us. There we spot a young leopard lounging on the branch as if it were a comfortable bed. But behold. He is not alone. There are two other leopards just under the tree, waiting for the third to join them in their march home. A few kilometers on, our jeep comes to a screeching halt. We have found a kill, a rather very fresh kill and that too a tigress’s kill as her pug marks are clearly stamped on
the mud track which we are driving on. As the kill was fresh, it was evident the tigress would return to stake claim later in the evening. Our entire safari was filled with exciting spottings of countless birds, bisons, deer and of course the Dhole. The images remain fresh in our minds even now as we pen this article and all the wildlife seems to be flashing right in front of our eyes. Also memorable was the ease with which Davey and the staff at Dhole’s Den made us feel entirely at home.
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Tourism
Uttarakhand
In The Wonderland
O
nce upon a time, there was a region dotted with a thousand and one mountains, covered with white powder and with gold, with silver, blue or deep blue lakes. And this all encircled by emerald green forests. Let yourself be transported into the history recounted to you by the mountains of Uttarakhand, through an improvised circuit in the Kumaon region of this mountainous state. A voyage in the Himalaya is an unforgettable adventure which almost always transforms itself into a true pilgrimage. One does not really realize the wonder and dazzle that awaits and not even the peace and the satisfaction of the spirit that one discovers during the journey. Uttarakhand is bordered by Tibet in the North-East, Nepal in the South-East, Himachal Pradesh in North-West and Uttar Pradesh in the south. Uttarakhand has traditionally been divided into two parts, the western half known as ‘Garhwal’ and the eastern half as ‘Kumaon’. The natives of Uttarakhand prefer to be known as Paharis or the People from Mountains. The history of the state is full of connotations of the Hindu religion. In fact, the legend goes that the state is home to the Gods and Goddesses and is also the source of the sacred Ganga river.
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It is at Almora, the cultural capital of Kumaon, where our voyage begins. Unlike many Himalayan towns, Almora was not discovered or settled by the British, but it was the seat of the Chand dynasty which ruled the city and its surroundings for nearly 1,000 years. The last remaining signs of these rulers are today found in the shape of the forts, historical monuments and royal courts. The city has also retained its most ancient traditions, visible notably in the construction of the homes and roads in slate. As in many other parts of the Himalayas, there are also several holy spots near Almora. Among these is the century-old Nanda Devi temple, which displays very fine architecture. Also, the Katarmal temple, considered to be the second most important sun temple in India, after the Konark temple of Orissa. This temple dates back to 800 years, for a long time it had been completely neglected, even though it represents a unique architectural style and has extremely complexes sculptures. For a profound contemplation to the heart of the nature, a number of devotees visit Jageshwar. Located in the midst of a dense cedar forest, about 30 km from Almora, Jageshwar groups 125 temples dating from the 8th to 11th century. Jageshwar is specially important for the Hindus since it is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, or the most important Shiva temples, in India and accordingly a big chunk of the 125 temples at Jageshwar are Shiva temples. It was very early in the morning that we could finally admire the string of mountains stretching for kilometers and with the peaks that count amongst the highest in the Himalayas. On the agenda was a small trek to the top of the small hill where our hotel was located. And since we had barely woken up, the early morning walk enabled us to
enjoy the cold and soft morning dew, the chirping of the birds, reinvigorating our bodies and spirits and above all offer us an unparalleled view of the summits of the Nanda Devi. The peak was a flaming orange and red, with the deep blue skies and a few white clouds. To admire the mountains more closely, we began looking for a place that would offer us a better view. And we zoom in onto Binsar, which sits atop a plateau at 2420 m, offers one of the best views of the mountains in this part of Kumaon. Binsar is a small, picturesque village, surrounded completely by very dense forests for several tens of km in all directions, and also home to a large wildlife sanctuary, with abundant flora and fauna. Binsar offers numerous opportunities for treks on several circuits specially designed for the lovers of trekking. A trek takes you across several small Himalayan rivulets, streams, with discovery of regional flora, with large stretches of green grasslands, in the heart of a forest vibrant with thousands of cedar, pine and oak trees as well as flowers including orchids and rhododendrons. The treks here offer a true osmosis with nature. A intimate and relaxing place, where every curve, every mount or every path opens the door to a new marvel, waiting to be discovered. Perched on the Jhandi Dhar, the highest point of Binsar, we remain frozen on an incredible view of the setting sun that covers the entire hypnotising Himalayan range, and where we can easily mark several peaks like Chaukhamba, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Shivling and Panchchuli. On the way to Kausani, we discover the big town of Bageshwar. Situated at the confluence of three rivers, Gomti, Gagghar Ganga and Surya, Bageshwar is a place of cultivated fields. The landscape is fantastic,
with a multitude of farms that succeed each other on the flanks of the mountains. At the bottom of the heart of the mountains is a plain surface that is occupied by a series of agricultural fields, with all of them forming a flaming golden yellow colour. It is indeed at Bagweshwar that we find the historic temple of Baijnath. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Biajnath temple dates back to the 12th century. Built in stone, the temple is a symbol of a unique form of architecture of the period, notably with the shape and design of the idols of Hanuman, Shiva and Parvati. According to the Hindu mythology, Shiva and Parvati had gotten married at the confluence of Gomti and Ghaggar Ganga, surrounding the temple. The devotees visit the spot to purify their spirits and bodies by taking a bath in the holy waters of these rivers. During the monsoons, the water level rises to a point where the temple almost becomes an island, with gushing waters flowing all around it. In the middle of the pine forests, with the views of the snow-clad summits of Trishul and Nanda Devi kissing the sky, Kausani is a destination where everyone gets moved to meditation. Even Mahatma Gandhi had spent time here, contemplating a unique view that offers a 180 degree view of the Himalayas, barely 300 km away. Since then, the Mahatma’s memorial has been frequented by pilgrims and disciples. The glory of the snowy peaks reaches its apogee when rays of the sun make them golden. The journey ends and as we leave the mountains, it with a heart and eyes filled with celestial images, body full of pure air and a calm and serene mindset and the strength of a tiger that we go back to our daily activities. In the hope of returning very soon to recreate this union with the nature, to admire the mountains and landscapes that are so typical of Uttarakhand.
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Tourism
Nilgiris
A biosphere in the Blue Mountains In South India, at the point where three states -- Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu – meet lie the Nilgris, a range of mountains connecting the Western Ghats with the Eastern Ghats. This densely forested zone is also home to one of the largest and richest biospheres of India, stretching over 5670 sqkm. The Nilgiris contain a wide range of wildlife like elephants, apes, tigers, panthers and of course numerous birds and also a range of trees like conifer, teak and eucalyptus. Right from the small airport of Coimbatore, the road starts to curve and climb slowly, with a dense green cover, as if protecting the road and the travellers. A vibrant flora also lends its perfumes to an air that is pure and refreshing. We halt at the Kurumba Village Resort, located in the midst of the Kurumba Valley, which is adorned by a number of waterfalls.
The beautiful setting increases our curiosity to discover the wild surroundings of the resort. Our first questions are about the origins and meaning of the word Kurumba and also of course the history of the place.
Kurumba Despite its African sounds, the word Kurumba is very much from one of the
dialects that forms part of the Dravidian languages and is attributed to some south Indian tribes. Living in close contact with the nature and wild animals, these small-built men and women of dark complexion have known how to manage the dangers of the forest. The members of the tribe are very respectful of the nature that surrounds them and it is this respect which
has allowed the co-existence of the animal and human kingdoms in these hills. In effect, the tribe lives in close contact with numerous wild animals like the elephants, panthers, bear and contributes to the preservation of the wild life.
The richest biosphere of India The biosphere of the Nilgiris is a world heritage site listed by the UNESCO and has over 3700 species of plants and 684 species of vertebrates (of which 156 are endemic). Several hundred plants found here have medicinal, industrial or food applications. In fact, among the principal products of the region are numerous essential oils derived from several plants here like geranium, lavender, gaultheria and eucalyptus and these are used to hair, skin, teeth and muscles. Despite this rich fauna and flora, the urbanisation, the agriculture, the attitude of certain tourists and the growth in local population in general have considerably impacted the site. To protect this unique ecosystem, the government launched several eco-friendly campaigns such as declaring almost the entire Nilgiris zone as being free of plastics. However, the challenge remains due to the low level of the awareness of severe human impact upon the global environment. The Nilgiris biosphere brings together several protected natural parks such as the Nagarhole and Bandipur in Karnataka, Waynad, Nilambur, Silent Valley and Siruvani Hills in Kerala, Jayalalitha Wildlife Sanctuary (Mudumalai), Nilgiris and Mukurti in Tamil Nadu. To explore our surroundings, we head for a trek in the forest, hoping to see some of
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the wild animals of the region and also to enjoy the rich flora here. Accompanied by a Kurumba tribal as our guide, we move into the dense forest. Different kinds of monkeys (langurs and macaques) move effortlessly from a branch to another. Spotted deer, discreet and cautious against an attack by a wild cat, are almost invisible in the decor of the forest. The large and diverse trees have hundreds of bird nests, and cries and songs of all the possible kinds rush into our ears from all around, indicating that this is an ideal spot for bird watching. The Nilgiris biosphere is in fact home to over 300 species of birds. On the narrow path, which is barely wide enough for an averagely-built human, we spot fresh footprints of elephants as well as lots of spoor – some very fresh and some from a few weeks – indicating that this is also the route taken by the elephant herd everyday to descend to the water stream at the bottom of the valley. Our guide tells us that he has counted
24 members of this herd that sometimes walks into the resort as well. Equally educative for us is our initiation in the numerous spices and flower or fruit plants of the region. Cotton trees, nutmeg, different kinds of pepper, cardamom and clove etc.You will be spoilt for the choice of fruits here, but the uncontested king is the Jackfruit, this large fruit with a thorny and thick skin, is rich in vitamins. It is a delicacy not just for us humans but also a favourite of the wild elephants here who don’t hesitate to crush all obstacles and plantations, just to reach this fruit. As the sun sets, the sky takes on mystical colours and a halo of light descends upon the peaks. It draws a sketch of the pure forms and moves suddenly from a profound green to infinite blue as the eye moves towards Nilgiris (blue mountains). This vision remains in our eyes and completes our journey to this land.
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Assam: Brahmaputra Jungle Resort
In The Wilderness
You like rock climbing, kayaking, meeting rhinos head on or simply be one with the nature. In the dense forests on the outskirts of Guwahati, in the north-eastern state of Assam, Brahmaputra Jungle Resort has all this and much more on the offer. If you want to lose yourself in wilderness and approach the wild life from up close, head to Brahmaputra Jungle Resort. Located 14 km from Guwahati, close to a waterfall and on top of hills that
surround the former capital of Assam, the resort has a small man-made lake and is surrounded by tea plantations. It is, as Tridib Sarma, the founder of the resort puts it, a place ‘blessed by the Gods’.
The wilderness experience is also guaranteed by a number of activities that you can indulge in over here, in unexplored and virgin forests of Assam.The adventure begins almost as soon as you enter the premises. You are welcomed by an elephant and beautiful smells of wholesome and healthy nature, as well as a number of surprises, fun activities and adventure sports. You can choose your home in the resort – jungle tents for the real wild types and airconditioned cottages with television for the city birds looking for a change not too dramatic. The day begins with a trip to the Amchang Wildlife Sanctuary, which includes three forest ranges that encircle Guwahati – Amchang Forest Reserve, South Amchang Forest Reserve and Khanapara Forest Reserve. Besides over 375 bird species and rhinoceros, we can also come
across leopards, elephants, wild cats, buffaloes, wild boars, deer, gaur, cobras and pythons. The sanctuary is the latest one to be notified in Assam. The Pabitora Wildlife Sanctuary, noted for being the sanctuary with the highest concentration of rhinoceros in the world, is one of the privileged and exclusive spots that the resort has to offer. About half an hour drive through small villages and changing landscapes takes to a small boat which is your vehicle for a head-to-head meeting with the famed one-horned Rhinos. The entire journey, through the meandering wetlands with high elephant grass, you are accompanied by chanting of birds, thousands of crickets and other inhabitants of he forests. Sleepy buffaloes enjoying the sun while lying almost submerged in the waters, monkeys jumping from a tree to another. All these are just a taste of what is to follow. The boat stops near a Forest Guard post and we walk barefeet through the wetlands, trying our best to keep our clothes fro the mud, while keeping a look out for the insects or snakes hiding in the tall grass. From the observation deck of the Forest Post, in the middle of Savanna, we spot a family of Rhinoceros approach us. Barely 100 m from the post, they look like enormous machines, but they are real. We can also do the trip on elephant back which takes you even closer to the rhinos, so
close that you can smell them and touch them with a stick. Whatever your mode
transport, a rhino viewing is guaranteed and in fact BJR guarantees at least five sightings from an elephant back.Other spots to be visited from the resort include a tea processing plant, an artisan and a tribal village. The resort also proposes activities within its premises – elephant safari, pony rides, trekking, rock climbing, bird watching,
kayaking, golf, parasailing, fishing, jogging, motocross and also a children’s play area. The resort also organises massage sessions and health camps are also held, completing the BJR offer. Innovator, the resort makes us discover not only the joys of ecotourism but also proposes visits to the existing tourist spots in the region. These include a cruise on the Brahmaputra – the largest river of India – visit to Sualkuchi, the famous silk city. Situated close to Meghalaya, the resort also proposes visits to capital Shillong and Cherrapunjee, the wettest place in the world. To spend some time at BJR, is a unique experience, full of sensations and memories.
Brahmaputra Jungle Resort, Tapesia, NH – 37, Sonapur Circle - Assam Mobile: +91-99549-22347 / +91-98543-94843 Website: www.brahmaputraresort.com
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Tourism
Kerala
Responsible tourism in God’s Own Country
With its magnificent coast that stretches over 600 km from the north to south, along the Arabian Sea, Kerala has emerged as one of the principal tourism destinations in India, as much for the domestic tourists as for the international travelers. Its fine-sand beaches, swaying coconut trees, wildlife sanctuaries and its resplendent vegetation, sitting along the famous backwaters. This heady combination makes Kerala a dream destination. However, entirely commercial tourism does have its own negative impacts on the environment and the society. And Kerala is aware of these issues and accordingly the government and the players in the tourism industry here have started taking measures to promote sustainable and responsible tourism. We tried something innovative this time around, to discover a region of Kerala through a project of responsible tourism, based on preservation of the environment, valorisation of traditional culture and respect of local populations who also must benefit from a tourism industry founded on reciprocity.And as often the best of the journeys are born as a result of a meeting, this trip was a result of a meeting with Gopinath Parayil, director of The Blue Yonder, a travel company focused on responsible tourism and who is also the initiator of several In Kerala, the team of Nila Foundation has the ambition of reviving the potential and the authentic past 46
India & You
of the beautiful valley of the river Nila or Bharatpuzha whose traditions have been lost over a period of time. Located in the midst of tropical vegetation, Kodeeri Mana is the agricultural field of Namboodri, with the typical charm of the Kerala homes with its red, pagoda-shaped roof. On the ground floor, large rooms that keep the cool are spread all around the house, with a patio bathed in soft light. At the end of the afternoon, the master of the house takes us towards the southern end of the property and there from a tree-house we have a fantastic view of the forests that extend all the way to the horizon and the tender-green rice fields. Grey herons and other elegant birds, form calligraphic signs of white spread all over the sharp green of the fields. The river basin is important not only for the religious rites but also for regulating irrigation of the fields. In the garden adjoining the house, they grow a number of aromatic and medicinal plants as well as spices. I begin to learn about the olfactory quality of these rare plants by crushing the leaves with my fingertips. They also have black pepper or ‘Black Gold’ plants, surrounded by trees that grow to 10 m.
September-October 2009
We come back to the fields, under a burning sun, for a demonstration of a biomass unit which works on the fermentation of the excreta of the two cows owned by the family. Soon the family will have four cows and this will make the family entirely self-dependent in terms of their energy requirements. Around 3 pm in the afternoon, we leave our friends to head towards a village where a big spectacle is planned for the evening. En route, we stop by at Ayurveda Mana, a centre for ayurveda, founded by Neelakandam Nampoothirippad, an exceptional master of the martial arts and also a scholar of the Vedas who has consecrated his entire life to healing patients, using the age-old traditions and knowledge of ayurveda. In a huge hall, which serves as the gymnasium, kalari is practiced and every day, they prepare, in copper receptacles, massage oils which are mixed with concoctions with rare herbs and whose composition is a carefully-guarded secret. It is already dark by the time we reach the place where the actors and the dancers are preparing for the performance. The troupe of the folk artists is composed of
nearly 20 youth from the village who have gathered the oral traditions of the Nila River valley, thus contributing to its revival. Percussionists and singers accompany the dancers. Two artists, dressed in tribal costumes, perform the combat between the almighty Goddess Kali and the demon Darika. And when, at the end vanquished, the demon falls, the children break into loud cheers, clapping loudly. We take tea together and we again express our sincere appreciation for the efforts being put in to keep the traditions alive. The next day we embark upon the Tirur river and we are struck by the immensity of water bodies which are a unique asset of Kerala and have become a paradise for the tourists. A boatman, using a long stick as an oar, transports the villagers across the river where the huts are almost hidden by the greenery. Majestic spaces open up, with a profusion of plants including bananas, coconuts, hibiscus and frangipani. The canals close and we navigate on the reverberating shadows of the vegetation and the canals meet up at a deep green laguna. We stop over at a small factory which produces cords made of the coir of the coconuts, a perfect example of a subsistence economy based on the local resources. These examples need, not only to be preserved but also developed all over the state. We then head northwards to visit one of the most beautiful beaches of the Malabar coast, with a recently-opened Neeleshwar
Hermitage hotel. And as every year, the rare Olive Ridley turtles come to the beach to lay eggs. Neeleshwar Hermitage has put in practice a philosophy of responsible tourism with a perfect resonance between art, nature and the traditions. The hotel has been constructed in keeping with the antique science of Vastu Shastra which assigns a particular characteristic and energy to each part of every building. The very original architecture, using the nature and internal spaces, has used rare materials
and tropical wood.And it is a pleasant surprise to see a coconut tree growing right in your bathroom. In this part of Kerala, which is less frequented by tourists than the rest of the state, we also hope that the time will be propitious for watching a performance of Teyyam or ‘Dance of the Gods’, an art that is as theatrical as ritual and which associates the dramatic forms with trance and withdivinity and which is one the biggest cultural wealths of North Kerala. ■
India & You
September-October 2009
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