THE SPORTSMAN'S CLOTHING By HORACE KEPHART Illustrated With Diagrams

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Materials That Will Achieve the End of Keeping the Heat in and Letting the Moisture Out

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OT only sportsmen, indeed, but others who take their vacations in wild country, or work in it, soon learn that all the difference between comfort and misery, if not health and illness, may depend upon whether they are properly clad. Proper, in this case, does not mean modish, but suitable, serviceable, proven by the touchstone of experience to be best for the work or play that is in hand. When you seek a guide in the mountains he looks first in your eyes and then at your shoes. If both are right, you are right. The chief uses of clothing are to help the body maintain its normal temperature, and to protect it from sun, frost, wind, rain and injuries. To help, mind you—the body must be allowed to do its share. Perspiration is the heat-regulating mechanism of the body. Clothing should hinder its passage from the skin as little as possible. For this reason one's garments should be permeable to air. The body is cooled by rapid evaporation, on the familiar principle of a tropical waterbag that is porous enough to let some of the water exude. So the best summer clothing is that which permits free evaporation—and this means all over, from head to heel. In winter, just the same, there should be free passage for bodily moisture through the underclothes; but extra layers or thicknesses of outer clothing are needed to hold in the bodily heat and to protect one against wind; even so, all the garments should be permeable to air. If a man wants to [668]

freeze most horribly, let him, on a winter's night, crawl into a bag of India rubber and tie the opening tight about his neck. Cloth can be processed in such a way as to be rainproof and still self-ventilating (this will be considered later), but rubber garments and oilskins cannot safely be worn the day long, unless they are very roomy, and the wearer exercises but little. Rubber overshoes, boots, waders, are endurable only in cool weather or cold water, and then only if very thick oversocks are worn to hold air and absorb moisture. All clothing worn by an outdoorman should be of such texture and fit as will allow free play to his muscles, so he may be active and agile, and should bind as little as possible, especially over vital organs. Garments that are too thick and stiff, or too loose at points of friction, will chafe the wearer. These are general principles; now for particulars. U NDERCLOTHING. — In discussing "togs" we usually begin on the wrong side—the outside. Now the outer garments will vary a great deal, according to climate, season, the terrain or waters, and according to the sport or work that one is to do; but the integument that comes next to one's skin should vary little for an outdoorman except in weight. The material and quality of one's underwear are of more consequence than the shell he puts over it, for his com-

THE SPORTSMAN'S CLOTHING fort and health depend more on them. Whenever a man exercises heartily he is sure to perspire freely, no matter how cold the air may be. Arctic explorers all agree that their chief misery was from confined moisture freezing on them. How it is in the dog-days everybody knows—a glowing sun, humidity in the air, and sweat trickling from every pore because the atmosphere is not dry enough to take it up. Permeability of cloth to air and moisture is largely a matter of texture. Consider the starched linen collar and the soft collar of an outing shirt; consider a leather sweat-band in the hat and a flannel one, or no sweat-band at all. Underclothing, for any season, should be loosely woven, so as to hold air and take up moisture from the body. T h e air confined in the interspaces is a nonconductor, and so helps to prevent sudden chilling on the one hand and overheating on the other. A loose texture absorbs sweat but does not hold it—the moisture is free to pass out through the outer garments. In town we may endure close-woven underwear in summer, if thin enough, because we exercise little and can bathe and change frequently. In the woods we would have to change four times a day to keep near as dry. WOOL VERSUS COTTON—Permeability also depends upon material. Ordinary cotton and linen goods do not permit rapid evaporation. They absorb moisture freely from the skin, but hold it up to the limit of saturation. Then, when they can hold no more, they are clammy, and the sweat can only escape by running down one's skin. After hard exertion in such garments, if you sit down to rest, or meet a sudden keen wind, as in topping a ridge, you are likely to get a chill—and the next thing is a "bad cold," or lumbago, rheumatism, or something worse. Wool, on the contrary, is permeable. That is why (if of suitable weight and loose weave) it is both cooler in summer and warmer in winter than cloth made from vegetable fibre. "One wraps himself in a woolen blanket to keep w a r m — to keep the heat in. He wraps ice in a blanket to keep it from melting—to

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keep the heat out." In other words, wool is the best material to maintain an equable, normal temperature. However, the broad statement that one should wear nothing but wool at all seasons requires modification. It depends upon quality and weave. Some flannels are less absorptive and less permeable (especially after a few washings by the scrub-and-wring-out process) than open-texture cottons and linens. And, speaking of washing, here comes another practical consideration. If woolen garments are washed like cotton ones—soap rubbed in, scrubbed on a washboard or the like, and wrung out— they will invariably shrink. The only way to prevent shrinkage is to soak them in lukewarm suds (preferably of ammonia or a similar soap), then merely squeeze out the water by pulling through the hand, rinse, squeeze out again, and hang up to dry. This is easy, but it requires a large vessel, and such a vessel few campers ever have. The alternative is to buy your undershirts and overshirts a size too large, allowing for shrinkage. Drawers must not be oversize, or they will chafe. But one's legs perspire much less than his body, and need less protection; so, up to the time of frost, let the summer drawers be of ribbed cotton, which is permeable and dries out quickly. Cotton drawers have the further advantage that they do not shrink from the frequent wettings and constant rubbings that one's legs get in wilderness travel. Wool, however, is best for wading trout streams. UNION SUITS are not practical in the wilds. If you wade a stream, or get your legs soaked from wet brush or snow, you can easily take off a pair of drawers to dry them, but if wearing a union suit you must strip from head to foot. Moreover, a union suit is hard to wash, and it is a perfect haven for fleas and ticks— you can't get rid of the brutes without stripping to the buff. D RAWERS must fit snugly in the crotch, and be not too thick, or they will chafe the wearer. They should be loose in the leg, to permit free knee action. Full-length drawers are best because

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they protect the knees against dirt and bruises, and safety-pins can be used to hold up the socks (garters impede circulation). SOCKS—If trousers of full length are worn, then socks are preferable to stockings as they bulk less, weigh less, cost less, and are easier to wash. Regardless of season socks should be of soft, pure wool, natural gray color, and if you are to do much tramping they should be thick, to cushion the feet and absorb moisture. Too hot? Yes, if you just sit around, but try them on a ten- or fifteen-mile hike, and you won't say "hot" but "comfy." Socks should not be closely knit, but open, to allow ventilation. The fit of socks is very important. If too loose, they wrinkle and chafe the feet; if too small, they are unendurable. To prevent them from shrinking is not difficult. Every night, or every time you come in with wet feet, remove your socks, put on fresh ones (having bathed the feet, of course), and put those you have worn to soak in a running stream; then draw them through the hand to squeeze out water, do not wring, but pull them gently into shape, and hang up to dry. On a long trip you will find means, now and then, to soak them in tepid suds, as they do not require a large vessel. Take along enough socks so that when a pair gets "more holey than righteous" you can throw them away. Darned socks cause blisters, especially when a man does the darning. OVERSHIRTS—For summer wear the U. S. A. blue chambray shirt is as good as any. It is durable, does not fade, and shows dirt and perspiration stains less than khaki or common outing shirts. Army shirts have two roomy Stanley pockets with buttoned flaps. These are just right for pipe and tobacco, notebook and pencil, or whatever you want handy at all times without crowding the trousers pockets. Later in the season, or for a cool climate, the standard infantry or officer's service shirt of olive-tan wool is excellent. It is always natty, and wears

better than common flannel. The cloth is shrunk before making up, but will do some more shrinking from repeated wettings and washings, so get a size larger than what is worn at home. Gray is also a good color for overshirts. NECKERCHIEFS—A neckerchief worn with the peak in front is convenient to wipe perspiration from the face. Slewed around the other way, it shields the neck

Fig. 1—Neckerchief Folded for Mood

from sunburn. In a high wind, or in dense thickets, it can be used to hold the hat on by tying over the head, and it will protect one's ears when frost nips. It serves as a nightcap, or as a shield against insects, as shown in figs. 1, 2. The neckerchief should be large (standard navy size, 35 x 35 inches). Then it can be used as a doubled triangular bandage (or cut into two of them) in emergency. Tied around the abdomen it helps to keep a man warm when he is caught out at night, and it is a good thing in case of cramps. The large silk navy kerchief, in black, blue, or red, can be bought of military outfitters. Tie with a reef knot (figs. 3, 4).

Fig. 2 — Neckerchief Hood Adjusted

THE SPORTSMAN'S CLOTHING

Fig. 3—Reef Knot Formed

TROUSERS—Khaki, of standard army grade, is good for summer wear, as it is cool and can be washed. "Duxbak," or other closely woven cravenetted cotton, is better late in the season, since it sheds a good deal of wet and keeps out wind. Both of these materials dry readily. They are too noisy for still-hunting. For cold weather the army trousers of olive-tan wool are excellent, unless one goes out for very rough travel. The woolen cloth called kersey is first choice in a cool, rainy climate, or wherever much wading is to be done. It is the favorite among those most practical of men, the log-drivers and lumberjacks generally. Woolen trousers do not wear so well as firmly woven cotton ones. They "pick out" in brush, "snag," and collect burs. What has been said of cotton drawers applies also to trousers. Best of all trouser material, for rough service,

Fig. 4—Reef Knot Drawn Tight

is genuine English doeskin, which is a very strong, tough, twilled cotton cloth, with a fine pile or nap, the surface of which is "shaved" before dyeing. It wears like iron, is wind-proof, dries out quickly, and is comfortable in either warm or cold weather. Cheap moleskin is worthless. Corduroy is easily torn, heavy, likely to chafe one, and it is notoriously hard to dry after a wetting. When wearing corduroy trousers there is a swish-swash at every stride that game can hear at a great distance. Trousers should not be lined; it makes them stiff and hard to dry. RIDING

BREECHES—These,

of

course,

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are best for the saddle; but they are also excellent garments for mountaineering and other travel afoot provided they are specially tailored to be less baggy at the hips and fuller at the knees so as not to bind in bending the leg. Knickerbockers are too baggy for the woods: they catch on snags and tear, or throw a man. They are comfortable in canoeing, but riding breeches made as described are better anywhere, being reinforced in the seat and inside of knees. BELTS—A belt drawn tight enough to hold up much weight is not only uncomfortable but dangerous. It checks circulation, interferes with digestion, and may cause rupture if one gets a fall. If common suspenders are objectionable, then wear the "invisible" kind that go under the overshirt. They prevent chafing, by holding the trousers snug up in the crotch. For ordinary service there is no need of a belt more than an inch wide. A cartridge belt should be worn sagging well down on the hips; or, if a heavy weight is to be carried on the belt (bad practice, anyway), by all means have shoulder-straps for it. PUTTEES—Never buy leggings that strap under the instep. The strap collects mud, and it is soon cut to pieces on the rocks. Any legging that laces over hooks will catch in brush or high grass and soon the hooks bend outward and flatten. The present U. S. A. canvas legging (fig. 5) has only one hook, in front; it is quickly adjusted. The strap puttee (fig. 6) is better for a woodsman or mountaineer. Leather puttees are

Fig. 5—U. S. Army Canvas Leg ging

Fig. 6—The C a n v a s Strap Put tee

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suitable only for horsemen; in walking and climbing they cut one in front and rear of the ankle joint. Genuine pigskin is the only leather that will stand hard service and frequent wettings. I like spiral puttees (fig. 7), not spat but plain, as here illustrated. They are strips of woolen cloth with selvage edges, specially woven and "formed," which wind round the leg like a surgeon's bandage and tie at the top. Do not wind too tightly. They are pliable, noiseless against brush, help to keep ticks and chiggers from crawling up one's legs, and, with the clothing underneath, are a sufficient defense against any snakes except the great diamond-back rattlers. "In experiments, only in rare instances has snake virus stained blotting-paper placed behind two thicknesses of heavy flannel." German socks, instead Fig. 7. Woolof leggins, are good for en Spiral Puttee still-hunting in severe cold weather. Many dispense with leggings by wearing their trousers tucked inside boots or high-topped shoes. This will do when the woods are dry, but when all the bushes are wet from rain, or from heavy dew, the water runs down inside your shoes until they slush-slush as if you had been wading a creek. COATS—The conventional American hunting coat of tan-colored cotton is designed primarily for fishermen, bird-hunters, and others who can reach home or permanent camp every night. Being nearly "all pockets but the button-holes," its wearer needs no pouch or game-bag. A man can stuff all the pockets full (he generally does) and still cross fences and slip through thickets without anything catching or dangling in the way. A cravenetted coat of this sort turns rain and keeps out the wind. These are good points. On the other hand, the coat is too hot for summer (barring trout fishing), it impedes athletic movements, and, unless sleeveless, it is a poor thing to shoot in,

as a gun butt is likely to slip from the shoulder. For summer hikes, canoeing, and big-game hunting (except when it is cold enough for mackinaws) any coat is a downright nuisance. Have the coat roomy enough to wear a sweater or thick vest under it. Never mind "fit"—the thing is hideous anyway. S WEATERS—A sweater, or sweater jacket, is comfortable to wear around camp in the chill of the evening and early morning, and its elasticity makes it a good bed garment when there are not enough blankets. With nothing over it, a sweater is not serviceable in the woods, as it "picks out," "sags," and catches up burs as a magnet does iron filings. When you want such a garment at all, you need warmth a-plenty: so get a thick one of good quality, and don't kick at the price. It should have cuffs to draw down over the knuckles, and a wide collar to protect the neck and base of head. The best colors are neutral gray and brown or tan. A sweater jacket that buttons up in front is more convenient than the kind that is drawn over one's head, but it is not so warm as the latter. Personally, I have discarded the sweater in favor of a mackinaw shirt, worn hunting fashion with tail outside. It has all the good points of a sweater, except great elasticity, and has the advantages of shedding rain and snow, keeping out wind, wearing well under hard service, and not picking up so much trash. L EATHER J ACKETS—In the cold dry air of the Far West a buckskin jacket or hunting shirt is often the best outer garment. It keeps out the keenest wind, is pliable as kid, noiseless, less bulky than a sweater or mackinaw, wears forever, and is proof against thorns and burs. But when wet it is as cold and clammy as tripe. Genuine buckskin shirts are still listed in the catalogues of certain dealers in the Northwest. Be sure the skins are "smoke-tanned," so that they will dry soft and not shrink so badly as those dressed by a commercial tanner. A fringed shirt dries better than a plain

THE SPORTSMAN'S CLOTHING one, as the water tends to drip off the fringes. Swedish dogskin jackets are rain-proof, but not so pliable as buckskin. If one can get them (Hudson Bay posts) light caribou skins are better than buckskin. Caribou or reindeer hide has the singular property of not stretching when wet. When tanned with the hair on it is the warmest of all coverings. VESTS—A vest without coat may not be sightly, but it is mighty workmanlike. Suspenders can be worn under it without desecrating the landscape—and stout suspenders, say what you please, are a badge of good common sense on a woodsman. But the vest worn in town is not fit for the wilderness. One's back is more vulnerable to cold than his chest; hence the thick cloth of a waistcoat should go all the way round. There should be four roomy pockets, the lower ones with buttoned flaps. Tabs fitted at the bottom will keep the vest from flapping when worn open. WATERPROOFING WOOLENS — Wet clothing is heavy and uncomfortable. It is much less permeable to air than dry clothing; consequently it interferes with evaporation of sweat; and it is chilly, because water, which is a good conductor of heat, has replaced the air, which is a non-conductor. Air passes through dry cloth more than twice as freely as through wet material. The problem is to waterproof the outer garments and still leave them permeable to air. This is done with cotton goods by cravenetting the material, or, less effectively, by the alum and sugarof-lead process which fixes acetate of alumina in the fibers. It is easier to waterproof woolens than cotton clothing. Simply make a solution of anhydrous lanolin in benzine, soak the garment in it about three minutes, wring out gently, stretch to shape, and hang up to dry, shifting position of garment frequently, until nearly dry, so that the lanolin will be evenly distributed. This process is very cheap, and old clothing can be treated by it as well

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as new, without injuring the buttons or anything else. Cloth so treated permits the ready evaporation of sweat, and so may be worn without ill effects, no matter what the weather may be. In fact the perspiration escapes more freely than from plain woolen cloth, because moisture cannot penetrate the fibers and swell them— the interstices are left open for air to pass through. And yet woolens impregnated with lanolin shed rain better than cloth treated by any of the chemical processes. The goods are not changed in weight, color, or odor. Instead of being weakened, they are made stronger. The waterproofing is permanent. Lanolin can be bought at any drugstore. It is simply purified wool fat. Wool, in its natural state, contains a grease known as suint. This suint is removed by alkalis before spinning it into cloth. If it had been let alone, as in a Navajo blanket of the old type, the cloth would have shed water. But suint has an unpleasant odor, which is got rid of by purifying the fat into lanolin. This lanolin, although it is a fat, has the singular property of taking up a great deal of water, and water is purposely added to it in preparing the common (hydrous) lanolin that is used as an ointment base and in cosmetics. In buying, specify that it be anhydrous (water-free) or get the druggist to tell you how to dehydrate it; then it will dissolve better. Cloth treated with lanolin absorbs little water because it cannot penetrate the fiber and is repelled from the interspaces. The strength of solution to be used depends upon climate. For hot, rainy weather, use four ounces of lanolin to a gallon of benzine; for average conditions in the temperate zone, three ounces to the gallon; for cold climate, or winter use exclusively, two ounces to the gallon, as cold has a tendency to stiffen cloth that has been steeped in a strong solution. The three-ounce formula is right for blankets. If trouble is experienced in making a solution of common lanolin, dissolve it first in a little chloroform, then pour into the benzine.

(To be continued)