The International Wine Review February 2009 Report # 15

The Wines of Chianti Classico

Introduction

In this Issue

Chianti is one of the oldest and most famous brand names in the wine world. With the highly acclaimed 2006 vintage now released to the public, renewed attention is being paid to this historic wine. However, Chianti’s fame has not always coincided with the production of high quality wines, and the adoption of the name Chianti by wineries located outside the historical production area in Tuscany has created confusion for consumers and diluted the value of the brand. The creation of the Chianti Classico Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in 1996 was an attempt by growers in the original Chianti region to resurrect the quality of the wine by introducing rigorous standards for growing and producing Chianti Classico. This effort is now bearing fruit, so to speak, as born out by our tasting notes at the end of this report. The quality of Chianti Classico is on the rise with the best yet to come. It is a unique, fruit-driven wine of real character with the acidity and tannic backbone that makes it a food wine par excellence.

Introduction ...........................................................1 Acknowledgements ................................................2 History of Chianti Classico ......................................3 Chianti: The Region and the Wine ..........................4 Sangiovese, the Grape ...........................................4 In the Vineyard ......................................................5 Winemaking in Chianti Classico ..............................6 Chianti Classico, the Wine ......................................6 Vintages ...............................................................7

Given these changes, it’s fair to ask, “What is Chianti Classico today?” In this, the 15th report of the International Wine Review, we attempt to answer this question. We start by summarizing the long, illustrious, history of winemaking in Chianti. Perhaps in no other region of the world can one find wine estates that have produced wine for close to a thousand years. Given the wide, and historically inaccurate, use of the term Chianti and the use of Chianti’s principal grape Sangiovese to produce wine throughout Tuscany, we also locate Chianti Classico in the broader context of Tuscan wines made with Sangiovese. We discuss the unique characteristics of the Sangiovese grape, the improvements which have taken place in Chianti viticulture and winemaking, and the pairing of Chianti Classico with traditional Tuscan cuisine. We also examine the important role of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico in bringing about the renaissance of Chianti Classico. No where else in the world have we found a regulatory body that has had such a profound, and positive, impact on a wine.

Pairing Chianti Classico with Food ...........................8 The Market for Chianti Classico .............................10 The Tasting Notes .................................................10

So, what is Chianti Classico today? It is not only the original production area for Chianti but, also, the unique and flavorful Sangiovese-based wine produced by the many talented winemakers of this region. Like Bordeaux, Chianti Classico is almost always a blend of varietals. Given the variety of micro-climates, soils, and elevations within Chianti, one finds wines that are diverse, ranging from elegant, red cherry flavored wines produced from high altitude fruit to meaty, smoky riservas with a distinct brambly, black fruit character, often made from lower altitude fruit. This range of flavors, combined with the relatively high acidity characteristic of the Sangiovese grape, means Chianti can be married to a wide variety of foods, showing a special ethereality when paired with Tuscan dishes. Chianti Classico has definite character and personality.

To help answer the question “What is Chianti Classico today?” we traveled to Tuscany to become familiar with the vineyards, wineries and often colorful winemakers of the region. With the generous assistance of the Consorzio, we tasted over 250 wines in America and in Tuscany over a two month period in late 2008. Extensive tasting notes on these wines are given at the end of this report and on our website www.i-winereview.com.

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Acknowledgements Several individuals and organizations contributed to this report. We would especially like to thank Silvia Fiorentini, Simone Fabbrini, and Daniel Rosellini, of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. Neil Empson of Neil Empson Imports helped us understand the changes in Chianti Classico over the past two decades. Edoardo Fioravanti provided valuable advice and insight. Numerous winemakers and their staff warmly received us on our visit to Tuscany and were extremely generous with their time and hospitality. Edward M. Korry, MA CWE, Department Chairman, Beverage and Dining Service, Johnson and Wales University, Providence, RI, educated us on pairing Chianti with Tuscan cuisine. Kobrand Corporation kindly allowed us to reproduce the map of Tuscany created by artist Michael Juhn. Also, this report would not have been possible without the full cooperation of the importers and distributors who provided us with wine samples. Finally, we would like to thank the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico for its informative website www.chianticlassico.com. Michael Potashnik Publisher, International Wine Review Donald Winkler Editor, International Wine Review

Our Recommendations We tasted over 250 Chianti Classicos from vintages ranging from 1990 to 2006. Most of these are wonderful wines, but some stand out as exceptional. Here’s our list of highly rated wines—scoring above 90 points.— from currently available vintages. An (*) indicates a wine of not only excellent quality but, also, exceptional value, with a recommended retail price of $35 or less.

Highly Rated Castello di Monsanto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio.....................................94 Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia............................................................93 Principe Corsini 2005 Chianti Classico Don Tommaso.................................................92 *Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico................................................................................92 Le Cinciole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Petresco....................................................92 Castello di Volpaia 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala......................................92 Tenuta di Riseccoli 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva.......................................................92 Castello di Fonterutoli 2005 Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli..............................92 *Castello D’Albola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva......................................................91 Barone Ricasoli 2004 Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio.............................................91 *Brancaia 2006 Chianti Classico.............................................................................91 Capannelle 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva................................................................91 Castello di Meleto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Casi......................................91 Castello di Monsanto 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio.....................................91 Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio......................................91 *Fontodi 2005 Chianti Classico...............................................................................91 *Querciabella 2006 Chianti Classico.......................................................................91 Rocca di Montegrossi 2004 Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino...........................91



points points points points points points points points points points points points points points points points points points

History of Chianti Classico Riddle # 1: Answer:

Important Dates in Chianti Classico

When is Chianti not Chianti?

Year

When it’s Chianti Classico.

It’s impossible to define Chianti Classico without making reference to its history. The name Chianti dates from the 14th century when it was first used to refer to wine produced in the region located between the Pesa and Arbia rivers and including the communes of Radda, Castellina and Gaiole. In 1716, the Grand Duke Cosimo III issued his famous decree formally creating a slightly enlarged Chianti region including the Greve commune. This region is very similar in shape and size to today’s Chianti Classico. The next important date in Chianti’s history is 1932. The fame of Chianti wine had led to growers in other regions of Tuscany labeling their wine as “Chianti”. This practice was formalized in 1932 with a ministerial decree enlarging Chianti to include seven distinct zones of production. One of those zones was Chianti Classico, and growers in this region were allowed to label their wine as such. However, Chianti Classico represented only about 10 Cosimo III de Medici by van Douven percent of the total Chianti wine-growing area, and for the consumer there was little or no distinction. This situation was not improved when in 1967 Chianti was granted DOC status; Chianti Classico was bound by the same rules as other geographic areas within Chianti, again leading to little distinction between Chianti and Chianti Classico. Castello di Ama and Felsina, among other producers, chafed at these rules and began marketing their wines as Vino da Tavola instead of Chianti.

Action

1398

First recorded written reference to Chianti wine

1716

Grand Duke Cosimo III establishes original Chianti zone

1874

Barone Bettino Ricasoli proposes Chianti formula, including white grapes

1924

Creation of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

1932

Ministerial decree establishes Chianti production zone, including Chianti Classico—the original Chianti zone

1967

Chianti DOC created & Barone Ricasoli’s formula made law

1984

Chianti (and Chianti Classico) granted DOCG status and new rules introduced to raise quality

1987

Chianti Classico 2000 Project initiated under Carlos Ferrini

1996

Chianti Classico granted its own DOCG status and stringent rules adopted to improve quality.

2006

White grapes no longer allowed in Chianti Classico blend

The Legend of the Black Rooster The historic symbol of Chianti Classico is a black rooster (Gallo Nero) on a gold field. Legend tells the story of how a black rooster contributed to the unification of Chianti under the Republic of Florence. and became the symbol of the League of Chianti. According to the legend, when the republics of Florence and Siena were engaged in bitter struggles during the Middle Ages, the Chianti zone was the scene of constant conflict. To put an end to the fighting and establish borders between the two republics, they agreed to the following solution. A rider would depart from the capital of each of the two republics, and the border would be drawn where the two horsemen met. The riders were to set out at dawn, and the signal for the race to begin would be the crowing of a rooster announcing the new day. The Sienese opted for a white rooster, while the Florentines chose a black one. On the day of the race the black rooster crowed before day light which gave the Florentine rider a great advantage over the Sienese horseman who departed much later. As a consequence, nearly all of Chianti passed into the hands of the Florentine Republic long before Siena itself fell to the Florentines. The Black Rooster later became the symbol of the League of Chianti, which was assigned administrative and military defense duties within the Republic of Florence. Today, the Black Rooster on a bottle of wine indicates that it is a Chianti Classico produced according to the rules and regulations of the DOCG.

This situation finally changed in 1996 when Chianti Classico was granted its own DOCG. This finally allowed Chianti Classico to establish rules and regulations distinct from the rest of Chianti. These include a maximum yield of 7.5 tons per hectare, the lowest of all DOCGs in Italy; a maximum yield per vine of 3 kilos; a minimum content of 80% Sangiovese; and prohibition of white grapes like Trebbiano and Malvasia, beginning with the 2006 vintage. The change in rules also permitted producers like Castello di Ama and Felsina to again market their wines as Chianti Classico. Critical to the evolution of Chianti Classico is the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. The Consorzio was created in 1924 when 33 producers formed an association to protect Chianti wine and its trademark of origin. They chose as their trademark the Gallo Nero, or Black Rooster, the historic symbol of the ancient Chianti Military League. By the end of 1924 the association had 189 members. The association began lobbying to gain recognition of Chianti Classico as being unique and different from other wine-growing regions of Tuscany. Its first success was in 1932 when the ministerial decree establishing Chianti allowed the traditional Chianti growing region

to use the adjective “Classico”, meaning the first or original Chianti. The Consorzio continued lobbying for its own DOCG, which was granted in 1996. Finally, in 2003, the Consorzio was given regulatory control over all wineries in the regions whether members of the Consorzio or not. Today the Consorzio has more than 600 members, representing 95% of producers in the region, and Chianti Classico has rules and regulations distinct from the rest of Chianti.

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Chianti: The Region and the Wine. Riddle # 2: Answer:

to do so. So what’s the difference between an IGT and a Chianti Classico? In some cases, not much, yet many Sangiovese-based IGTs continue to command prices that are multiples of those of good Chiantis.

When is wine grown in Chianti Classico not Chianti Classico?

In short, Chianti Classico is unique, and it’s an exceptional food wine. But for many consumers it is still a puzzle. Hopefully, the impressive marketing efforts of the Consorzio are yielding fruit, so to speak, and creating a clearer commercial identity for Chianti Classico.

When it’s a Tuscan IGT.

It’s not only the distinction between Chianti and Chianti Classico that is confusing to the consumer. So, too, is the fact that Chianti Classico is just one of many Sangiovese based wines grown in Tuscany. Historically, or at least since Barone Bettino Ricasoli proposed including Malvasia Bianca in the Chianti blend in the 19th century, Chianti included white grapes in its blend. This was codified in law in 1967 when Chianti was granted DOC status with the accompanying regulation that Chianti be produced using Barone Ricasoli’s original formula of 50 to 80% Sangiovese, 10 to 30% Canaiolo Nero, and 10 to 30% Trebbiano and Malvasia. This regulation had almost disastrous consequences for Chianti as many producers employed the maximum permissible amount of the highly productive Trebbiano grape, leading to lower quality, lower prices, and an almost fatal blow to Chianti’s reputation.

Sangiovese, the Grape. Sangiovese is the core of the Chianti Classico blend. It is widely planted throughout Central Italy and is also used in the production of other classic Tuscan wines such as Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, and the vast majority of super Tuscans. It appears to have originated in Tuscany many centuries ago; its ancestors are ancient grape varieties that are today almost extinct. In each of the three main zones where it is grown, Sangiovese takes on different characteristics reflecting climate, soil, and other growing conditions. In Montalcino it is known as Sangiovese Grosso, whereas in Montepulciano it is traditionally called Prugnolo Gentile. In Chianti Classico, it has traditionally been called Sangiovetto.

Chianti, of course, did survive and with the prohibition of white grapes in the blend effective with the current 2006 vintage, Chianti Classico can now have up to 100% Sangiovese grapes, making it similar to the wines of Montalcino and Montepulciano, and can include Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, similar to the wines of Carmignano. In addition, one can find blends of Sangiovese from Chianti Classico and from the Maremma on the Tuscan coast (e.g., Terrabianca’s Campaccio), but these cannot carry the label “Chianti Classico”.

Although Sangiovese thrives in Tuscany, it is a temperamental grape and is not easy to cultivate. While the grape adapts well to a variety of soils, it is slow to mature and ripens late, increasing the risk of autumn rain. It generally needs at least 60 days after veraison to ripen satisfactorily, and quite often growers are unable to achieve uniform ripeness.

These other wines are different from Chianti Classico both in terroir and winemaking. In fact, it is Chianti Classico’s terroir and winemaking that make it unique today. The Tuscan hills and the varied soils of Chianti Classico produce a range of flavors, as well as acidity and tannins, that traditionally have been blended to yield a harmonious and balanced wine. There are single vineyard Chiantis, but they are rare. This blending of grapes from different terroirs, as well as from different varietals—Sangiovese and Colorino, especially-is an important part of the answer to the question, “What makes Chianti Classico different?” The relatively modest oak treatment of most Chianti offers another answer to this question. Riservas spend at least a year in barrel or botte (large neutral chestnut barrels), but unlike many other Sangiovese based Tuscan wines they are rarely given the full throttled dark toast, new French barrique treatment. In short, Chianti Classico lets the fruit shine through, as opposed to being yet another expensively oaked, international styled wine that could have been produced almost anywhere.

By nature, Sangiovese is relatively thin-skinned and produces light colored wine, due to a lack of anthocyanins, the coloring matter in grapes. It also is fruity, yet high in acidity and has hard tannins. When Sangiovese lacks central-palate richness, winemakers often round out their Chianti Classico by blending Sangiovese with other native grapes such as Canaiolo Nero or Colorino, or with international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Canaiolo is generally used to soften and add floral aromas to the wine while Colorino is used to add color. Merlot generally helps reduce high acidity, adds color, and contributes a blue fruit note to the flavor profile of the wines. Cabernet Sauvignon contributes black currant aromas and flavors and often softens hard tannins.

But, as the riddle suggests, there is yet another part to the Chianti Classico puzzle. Two decades ago when the old rules forbidding 100% Sangiovese and requiring white grapes were in effect, some of Chianti’s better producers started making Sangiovese based wines that did not meet the regulations and began marketing them under the moniker vino da tavola and, later, Indicazione de Geografica Tipica (IGT). A number of these IGTs—Fontalloro, Percarlo, Le Pergole Torte, etc.--received critical acclaim, which only served to further enhance their reputation, and price, vis a vis Chianti Classico. Today, under the new regulations some of these same Sangiovesebased IGTs could be marketed as Chianti Classico with a Gallo Nero on the label, yet for marketing reasons most producers choose not

In recent decades considerable attention has been given to identifying clonal material and agricultural practices to improve the performance of Sangiovese and other indigenous grapes. Under the Chianti Classico 2000 project researchers identified seven high performing Sangiovese clones distinctive for their cluster shape, resistance to unfavorable weather, and favorable polyphenolic characteristics. A small group of private wine growers such as Felsina, using massal selection, have also identified other high performing types of Sangiovese from their own vineyards which adds to the improved stock of Sangiovese available for planting. Others researchers and growers are working with Canaiolo, Colorino, and long forgotten varieties such as Foglia Tonda or Pugnitello to

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enrich the mix of grape varieties for blending with Sangiovese. For example, drawing upon research at the University of Florence, Marco Ricasoli Findolfi of Rocca di Montegrossi has begun adding 5% Pungitello to his Sangiovese Riserva San Marcellino. Considerable progress has also been made in recent years in replanting the vineyards of Chianti Classico with these new cuttings and clones, with very promising results.

produced fruit of dubious quality. This was reflected in the quality of the wine and adversely affected the reputation of Chianti Classico. As noted earlier, the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico initiated the Chianti Classico 2000 Project under the guidance of Carlo Ferrini, to identify the best rootstocks, the most appropriate planting density, the best soil management, and the highest quality Sangiovese clones. The characteristic being sought in high quality grapes included thicker skins, higher anthocyanins and sparser grape bunches (Sangiovese grows in very tight bunches which prevents light from entering and ripening all grapes evenly). As a result of this research, seven clones of Sangiovese and one of Colorino were recommended for replanting the vineyards of Chianti.

In the Vineyard Due to the topography of the Chianti region, the vines of Chianti Classico grow in a wide variety of micro-climates, altitudes, and soils. Altitudes range from 200 to about 800 meters, and soils range from sandstone, clay and sedimentary rock in the low altitudes to clay and limestone in the middle altitudes and rocky, calcareous soil in the higher altitudes. In general, soils are shallow and stony, and slopes are steep. The climate and topography of Chianti provide the potential to produce high quality fruit.

Vineyard replanting. About the same time the Consorzio initiated its efforts to raise quality, many of the wineries of Chianti Classico began extensive efforts to replant their vineyards. Over the last decade half the vineyards of Chianti Classico have been replanted at a cost of €260 million. Most of the replanting was and is being done by wineries like Felsina making their own clonal experiments via massal selection and purchasing high quality clones from commercial nurseries, but the clones identified by the Consorzio are increasingly being commercialized and used in replanting. Almost all the vineyards we visited in Chianti were well along in their efforts to rip out the overly productive, low quality vines planted in the 1960s and 1970s and replace them with densely planted, new higher quality clones. Instead of vineyards with 2000 vines per hectare, producing 4-5 kilos of grapes per plant, these new vineyard plantings increased the number to 5,000 or more vines, and reduced grapes per plant to only 1-2 kilos. Fattoria Viticcio, for example, currently plants 6,500 vines per hectare with yields of about 1 kilo per plant. Since the year 2000, the average planting density is over 4900 vines per hectare, compared to a planting density of 3000 vines per hectare in the decade of the 1970s. Both large and small wine estates undertook massive vineyard replanting, including large estates like Badia a Coltibuono, Fonterutoli, and Castello di Brolio and smaller estates such as Fontodi and Isole e Olena. Many of these vineyards are only now producing their first grape harvests.

The average wine estate in Chianti is just 8.5 hectares in size, and on average 40% of vineyard acreage was planted before 1980. Over half of all plantings have fewer than 3750 plants per hectare, although newer plantings have significantly higher density than older plantings. Sangiovese is by far the most popular varietal planted, representing 78% of total plantings. The second most popular grape is Merlot with 7% of plantings, and third most popular is Cabernet Sauvignon with 4% of plantings. Among traditional varietals, Canaiolo Nero has under 3% of plantings, and Colorino has under 1%. The making of Chianti Classico is undergoing a quality revolution that will enable the region to realize its potential to be ranked among the top quality wine growing regions of the world. A very important part of this revolution is taking place in the vineyard. This revolution has three major battlefronts. The first is to improve the vine itself through clonal research and careful selection of the best vines for reproduction. The second is to replant the vineyards of Chianti using the best clones and planting with greater density. And the third is to adopt natural viticultural practices that are environmentally sustainable while simultaneously improving fruit quality.

Sustainable vineyard practices. The third battlefront in the war to raise quality is the adoption of organic and biodynamic methods in the vineyard. Numerous vineyards, including Le Cinciole, Renzo Marinai, and Fattoria Viticcio have adopted such environmentally sound practices. This includes planting grass and legumes between

Clonal research. Just prior to the turn of the millennium most of Chianti’s vineyards were comprised of highly productive vines that

Roberto Guldener: Philosopher of Wine “The secret of a great wine lies in its balance A harmony that starts with the balance of the vine itself The starting point of the work in the vineyard is the art of pruning It takes skill, discipline and passion A work of great responsibility Where the rules of Nature must be accepted Respecting Nature’s rules leads to harmony and balance” “A wine that travels has to say something” “Wine is a language that carries the culture of a country.”

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the rows of vines, both to control erosion on steep hillsides and to enrich the soil naturally without the use of artificial fertilizers. Querciabella, for example, plants a mix of 40 different seeds in the rows between the vines after harvest and then plows under the resulting vegetation in the spring. The fact that most Chianti vineyards are separated by woodlands, olive groves, and pastures contributes to a rich, diverse environment in the vineyard.

fermentation temperatures, relying instead on natural cooling winds coming off the mountains. Because of Sangiovese’s thin skin, many winemakers prefer the more gentle pigeage technique (pushing down) of cap management rather than pump-overs. However, pump overs are used and done twice daily in some wineries. Winemakers also use small tanks for fermenting small quantities of grapes separately. Castello di Fonterutoli, for example, has 74 separate fermenters to ferment grapes from individual parcels. Querciabella vinifies 120 lots separately.

Winemaking in Chianti Classico

Blending. The better wineries ferment grapes from each of their vineyard parcels separately and produce the assemblage or final blend near the end of the process. The goal is to gain added color, flavor and complexity in the wine. Wineries with vineyards or parcels at different altitudes will vinify the fruit separately and later blend cool climate high altitude, high acid grapes with those from warmer sites. In blending Chianti Classico, winemakers also avoid the over use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot which can easily dominate the delicate aromas and flavors of Sangiovese. Blending is often carried out in tanks or large Slavonian oak 40 hl barrels (tinos) and transferred to smaller oak barrels for aging.

In the past several decades winemakers in Tuscany have adopted new and improved winemaking practices to match the improvements introduced in the vineyards. These new practices were disseminated through the education and training of young enologists at Italy’s top schools of enology and by prominent Tuscan enologists such as Giacomo Tachis, Carlos Ferrini, Ricardo Cotarella and Franco Barnabei who advised their clients on making high quality wines for international markets. In today’s wineries of Chianti Classico out-of-date practices have been replaced with new and modern approaches involving greater care and attention to detail in the handling of fruit, managing fermentation, blending, and aging of wines in barrel. Heavy handed interventions of the past have been replaced by restraint which means avoiding undue manipulation of the wine, judicious use of oak, using gravity to move the liquid, and reducing racking to the minimum necessary to maintain freshness of the wine. Summarizing these approaches, Marco Ricasoli Findolfi of Rocca di Montegrossi has noted “In the cellar you can never improve the quality of the wines, just make it worse. The grape already has everything in it, and all the technology we have these days in just needed to preserve it. I believe in letting the terroir speak for the wine.”

Oak aging . The top producers in Chianti Classico use oak carefully to round out wines and give them texture. Having attempted to make wines in the image of Bordeaux in the late 20th century, they found Sangiovese was often submerged under toast and vanilla. Today they limit their use of new oak to allow for the full expression of Sangiovese. Many winemakers use a combination of small barrels and large tonneaux and a relatively small proportion of new oak for aging their wine. Although the production regulations for Chianti Classico require a minimum of 7 months of aging in oak barrels starting in October 1 of the vintage, many producers age their wines for 9 to 12 months in barrel followed by 6 months in bottle . For riservas, the minimum time for aging is 24 months, of which at least 3 are required to be spent in bottle. Most producers age riservas for at least 18 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle before release.

Some of the specific practices and techniques being employed to make quality wines are as follows: Harvesting and Fruit Sorting. Harvesting grapes when ripe is key. This includes careful sorting and selection of grapes in the vineyards over the course of the growing season with green harvesting done in late summer and final fruit selection at harvest times. Merlot, an early ripening grape, is usually picked first, while Sangiovese, a late ripening grape, is picked last. While some wineries have sorting tables, it is much more common in Chianti Classico for fruit to be sorted in the field and brought to the winery in separate containers where it is de-stemmed and readied for fermentation.

Chianti Classico, The Wine The regulations of the Chianti Classico DOCG concerning viticulture, winemaking, and the blend of grapes effectively set the core traits of the wine. These traits include bright flavors of Morello cherry and plum with earth and bramble notes, relatively high acidity, moderate alcohol levels, medium weight, a dry mid-palate, and light to moderate tannic grip on the finish. These characteristics make Chianti Classico a food wine first and foremost.

Cold Soak. Pre-fermentation maceration is widely used by winemakers to increase Sangiovese’s aroma, color and color stability. This process involves juice and skin contact of one to four days at cold temperatures with punch downs to increase extraction of color from the skins. Crushing of the grapes often helps achieve maximum extraction. If done successfully, cold soaking produces Chianti Classicos that have a brighter color, fruity notes and added complexity.

However, the region Chianti Classico covers a number of communes, vineyards of widely varying altitudes and soil types, diverse clones that the Consorzio research has shown affects flavors and textures, growers who make decisions about planting density and trellising, and winemakers who vary in their approaches to making wine, including harvesting, sorting of fruit, maceration, aging in oak, and blending of different varietals and of Sangiovese from different parcels and sites. Altogether, these variables produce many expressions of Chianti Classico.

Fermentation. Most producers ferment their wines over a period of 15 to 20 days at around 28-32 C (82-89 F). They use a combination of inox steel and cement tanks. Since the mid-90s winemakers have been using open steel tanks or open top 500 liter tonneaux for fermentation with temperature control to preserve aromas. Terrabianca even avoids the use of water jackets to control

Each variable contributes to the flavors and textures of Chianti Classico. High altitude fruit, for example, appears to produce lighter, more elegant wines of higher acidity, while low altitude fruit produces

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Wine by the Glass in Florence

Pitti Owners Manuele Giovanelli and Edoardo Fioravanti

Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina, located across from the Museo Pitti and just a few blocks from the Ponte Vecchio, is an informal and inviting wine bar offering a varied and interesting selection of Tuscan and other Italian wines. Owner Edoardo Fioravanti is especially knowledgeable about Tuscan wines and is generous in sharing this knowledge with his clientele. This is a good place to try Chianti Classico by the glass from producers like Monteraponi, Renzo Marinai, Felsina, Montegrossi, Le Cinciole, and Castello di Ama. Edoardo can also recommend a selection of cheeses from the Fattoria di Corzano e Paterno and Tonno del Chianti from Dario Cecchni’s butcher shop in Panzano. Tell Edoardo or his co-owner Manuele you read about this wine bar in the International Wine Review and you’ll receive special treatment.

denser, darker wines with firmer tannins. But given the multitude of variables affecting the wine and the varied expressions that result, it’s difficult to provide a typology of Chianti Classico, aside from the one that’s most obvious to the consumer—regular (normale) versus reserve (riserva) bottlings.

and excellent balance. These silky and elegant traits are usually characteristic of the wines sourced from ripe grapes of high altitude vineyards. Morello cherry is the flavor most often associated with Chianti Classico. Morellos are distinguished by their dark mahogany skin color, flesh and juice. In contrast to sweet cherries, they are sour tasting with rich, complex flavors and are commonly used to produce preserves or dried cherries.

Regular bottlings (normales) of Chianti Classico are on average lighter, with fresh fruit and only a modicum of oak aromas and flavors. Their style calls for early consumption, usually at two to four years of age. Compared to the normales, riservas are darker, heavier, and tightly structured with more complex bouquets and flavors, in part due to the fact that riservas have not traditionally included white grapes in their blend. They are best consumed between five and ten years from the time of vintage.

•

Our tasting of a large number of Chianti Classicos from numerous wineries that source their fruit from diverse parts of the Chianti region allows us to draw some tentative conclusions about the styles of Chianti Classico as reflected in color, aroma, flavors, and tannic structure: •

Color. Chianti Classicos are medium to dark ruby in color and frequently garnet or orange at the rim after a few years of aging. Some wines are black and opaque in color, in particular, those of estates in the warmer micro climate of the southeastern corner of the Chianti Classico area (e.g., Castello di Bossi or Felsina)

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Aroma: The scents of Chianti Classico are akin to dried dark cherry and plum fruit, but can also give hints of fresh strawberry and raspberry fruit when sourced from cool climate vineyards. (e.g., Querciabella’s Chianti Classico) Riservas often also reveal sottobosco aromas of leather, forest floor, cigar box and savory herbal notes but can also be enchantingly floral (violets).

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Flavor: On the palate, Chianti Classicos are light to medium weight and show marked acidity, light to concentrated red and black fruit flavors , and usually well integrated oak notes. Some wines are rustic, while others are generous and fruit forward with silky textures

Tannins. The finishes on Chianti Classicos can be silky smooth and long lasting, but they can also be dry, tart and even astringent, due to unripe fruit or poor tannin management. Alcohol levels in Chianti Classico are generally kept within reasonable levels (13-14%), but some big wines in warm vintages can reach 14.5%.

Vintages While the Chianti region does not suffer from the temperature extremes of colder climes, it does nonetheless experience year-to-year climate changes that can significantly affect both the quantity and quality of wines produced in the region. The table below provides a brief description of the vintages since the year 2000. In reading this table, it’s important to remember that good winemakers often make very good wines even in challenging vintages. During our travels in Tuscany, we were able to taste verticals of several wines, including the Principe Corsini Don Tommaso Chianti Classico Riserva, the Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva, the Felsina Berardenga Fontalloro IGT, the Terrabianca Campaccio Riserva, and the Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva. While it was too early to taste the 2006 vintages of these particular wines, the 2006 Chianti Classicos suggest this vintage may be on a par with 2001. Our barrel and tank tastings suggest the most recent two vintages—2007 and 2008—will also be at least very good.

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Year

The Climate

The Vintage

2008

Heavy rains in May create mold problems for some growers. Hot, dry summer followed by some very hot weather in September and an early harvest. Not quite as good a vintage as 2007.

Very Good

2007

A warm winter and spring leading to early budbreak, followed by a warm summer with adequate rainfall and an early and relatively small harvest.

Very Good to Excellent

2006

An almost perfect growing season with moderate heat, adequate rainfall and superb growing conditions in the month prior to harvest. For some growers, 2006 approaches 2001 in terms of quality. Non-riservas will drink well in 2009-2010. The Riservas are not yet released.

Excellent

2005

Rain at the end of September during the normal Sangiovese harvest created problems for some growers, requiring careful selection of grapes and resulting in some variability in quality. Wines will improve with more bottle age. Riservas released in second half of 2008.

Very Good

2004

Almost optimal growing conditions disrupted only by rain towards the end of the harvest resulted in a “classic” Chianti Classico. Wines will continue to improve.

Very Good

2003

A late spring frost reduced yields, while a torrid summer led to early ripening and an early harvest. Wines are soft and sweet, showing very ripe fruit and sometimes lacking their typical depth. Delicious now.

Good

2002

A rather wet summer was followed by alternating rain and heat during harvest. Wines are dilute in general, but wineries that did aggressive cluster thinning, leaf removal, and grape selection were able to produce some very enjoyable, if light, wines.

Poor

2001

High summer temperatures gave way to cooling rains prior to harvest. Most wines are now near their peak.

Excellent

2000

A hot summer followed by early ripening and harvest. Wines are somewhat jammy and past their prime.

Very Good

and game. When in Tuscany and referring to the cuisine of northern Italy or France, one is told it is a ‘cucina assassinata’ or assassinated cuisine that is contrived and hides the freshness and natural flavors of the fruit of the land. When beans, olive oil, fresh tomatoes, herbs, mushroom, pecorino are used in dishes, they form ‘bridges’ to the wines, so if they are included in non-Tuscan dishes you can rest assured that Chianti wines are more likely to successfully pair with them.

Pairing Chianti Classico with Food The special affinity of Tuscan wine and food produces some of the most memorable gastronomic experiences one can have. When the pairing of Chianti wine and Tuscan food is done with care, neither dominates and each accentuates the other’s positive attributes. While Chianti Classico has improved significantly over the past three decades, the wines of Chianti have always been supportive of the traditional dishes from this beautiful region.

Antipasti. Typical antipasti include crostini (bruschetta) which have been considered hors d’oeuvres since the 16th century. The tomato’s acidity, the Tuscan bread, the herbaceousness of basil and umami of cheese all are balanced and enhanced by the wine. If beans are used their delicate sweetness and earthy notes are miraculously revealed, especially in earthier medium bodied wines. Another antipasti, Trippa alla fiorentina, which is sometimes served with calves feet and cannelli beans would call for a more intense Chianti.

The Wine. Why are Chiantis such good food wines? There are several reasons: They generally have good but not overbearing acidity that enlivens food flavors on the palate. The flavors are balanced and none too assertive, thereby not competing with food flavors. The alcohol level is usually moderate, thereby not overwhelming the palate with dullness or sweetness and maintaining a balance of tastes. The tannic structure is moderate to light for the most part and does not overwhelm the palate in its demand for compensating fattiness. There is no overbearing oakiness with sweet or tannic notes to compete with food balance. And finally, there is no residual sweetness so the wine plays as a perfect foil to natural ripeness and sweetness in food.

Primi Piatti. There are a large number of dishes from all over Tuscany that can be described as a Primo Piatto such as a Frittata or Torte di Pomodoro which would be well paired with Chianti of moderately high acidity, silky tannins and delicate to moderate intensity. •

The Food. Tuscan food has ancient roots in agricultural traditions that highlight the natural flavors of vegetables, yeastiness of bread, beans (Tuscans are bean eaters, especially fava and cannelli beans), pasta, tomatoes, olive oils, olives, mushrooms, fresh fish, free-range poultry, meats

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Zuppa. Zuppas such as Ribollito are by definition not just soups like Acquacotta Maremmana but a vegetable minestra leftover from a previous day and layered with day old bread and reboiled. These can be rib-sticking, and the earthiness of the beans mixed with winter vegetables (carrots, celery,

onions) and served with a little grated cheese and olive oil can be paired with many Chiantis. Another related zuppa is Minestra ai Fagioli del Valdarosa which could also be paired with a light Chianti which would be revealed as even more refreshing. Zuppa di Telline, which is a clam dish made with fresh tomato red wine sauce, calls for a light-bodied Chianti normale. •

Piatti Secondi or Main Courses.

Pasta. Also regarded as a primo piatto, these are traditionally fresh pasta, although dried pasta dishes of course exist. The most traditional pasta is called Pici or Pinci which is a hand made pasta with little but flour and water and considerable kneading and manual rolling out. The pasta is accompanied by vegetable sauces, fresh tomato sauces or, in the winter months, heavy meat sauces calling for full-bodied Chianti riserva. Pezze della Nonna are stuffed fresh pasta squares filled with spinach and ricotta filling and served with a fresh tomato sauce, which calls for a light-bodied normale. A Tortelli di Magro alla Vicchiese from Mugello is richer because of the inclusion of Parmigiano cheese and a meat broth reduced sauce, thus calling for a medium-bodied Chianti.

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Shellfish such as shrimp in the dish Spiedini di Gamberi in Salsa (shrimp on skewers with thyme sauce) or shrimp with tomato based sauces are perfect with a light style normale.

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Chicken. A Gallo alla Salvia ed Aglio (rooster with a Sage-Garlic Sauce) or chicken that is grilled or cooked in clay, Pollo al Mattone, would pair wonderfully with a medium Chianti.

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Veal. Veal dishes such as Involtini di Carciofi, which is veal stuffed with artichokes, can be accompanied by nothing more intense than a medium Chianti. Because of their cynarine, artichokes are difficult unless balanced by lemon, meat stock or butter and cheese, which this dish has. amore alcoholic or tannic wines would have those characteristics intensified by artichokes. A Stracotto di Vitella alla Fornarina or roasted veal shank on the other hand can be paired best by a dark, full-bodied Chianti riserva as the dish has greater intensity.

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Beef. The dish Bistecca alla Fiorentina is world reknown for its simplicity and reflection of Tuscan epicurean philosophy. The beef should be from the white steers of Vadichiana. The cut of the steaks should be no less than 3 inches and it should be grilled without the use of oil or butter. The sprinkling of sea salt on the steak and directly onto the fire can add to a touch of smokiness. Such a dish, served with a spritz of lemon and top quality estate olive oil, can be enhanced by a dark, fullbodied riserva, as would other rich dishes such as Cinghiale in Umido, or wild boar. (Wild boar may be a pest in the vineyards, but it makes a delicious stew.)

Organic Winemaker Renzo Marinai Pairing Tuscan Pasta with his 2006 Chianti Classico

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

Grapes Drying for Vin Santo

Most wine estates in Chianti Classico also produce Vin Santo, the heavenly, golden sweet wine produced from dried Trebbiano, Malvasia and Sangiovese or Canaiolo and aged for three to ten years in chestnut, oak, and cherry wood barrels. Traditionally, Vin Santo is served with cantucci (small almond or hazelnut cookies) at the end of the meal. During our Tuscany trip we had the opportunity to taste a number of Vin Santos. A few of our favorites illustrate the wide variety of aromas and flavors found in Vin Santo: Barone Ricasoli 2003 Vin Santo, predominantly Malvasia with a touch of Sangiovese with delightful aromas of dried apricot and orange marmalade and flavors of apricot and butterscotch; Castello di Cacchiano 2000 Vin Santo, containing 15% Canaiolo with rich caramel and crème brulee aromas and flavors of toasted almond and rich butterscotch; Castello di Cacchiano 2001 Vin Santo, an usual mahogany colored wine with 30% Canaiolo and aromas of Oloroso sherry and orange zest and flavors of coffee liqueur and brown sugar; Castello di Volpaia 2000 Vin Santo, a light amber colored blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia with aromas of toffee and apricots and flavors of rum-soaked raisins; and Felsina 1999 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, with aromas of orange zest and dried apricots and smoky Scotch whiskey flavors.

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• Contorni or vegetable dishes are traditionally served separately from the entrée and one should be cautious about serving dark riservas or even medium Chiantis unless accompanied by lemon or acid based sauces.

Tasting Notes and Ratings

• Cheeses. Many cheeses can be well paired with Chiantis, and the more aged the cheese the more structured the wine can be. Tuscany is best known for its Pecorino (sheep’s) cheese which is served as fresh ricotta all the way to hard aged cheese, which still retains its natural sweetness. Desserts on the other hand cannot be paired with Chiantis as the key is for the wine to be sweeter than the dessert. One can always reach out for a Vin Santo (see box) or another Passito wine from the area to satisfy that need. So the next time you are preparing a simple dish that has the natural tastes and flavors of foods that bridge them to Tuscan cuisine, pour yourself a Chianti and find yourself in that beautiful landscape, even if only figuratively.

More than 250 wines were tasted for this report. We normally taste wines blind under controlled conditions. However, for this report we also tasted a number of wines at wineries in Tuscany where this was not possible. In addition to Chianti Classicos and Chianti Classico Riservas, we tasted IGT Toscana, Vin Santo, and wines from the Maremma. The latter are not included here and will be reviewed separately. The i-WineReview rates wines using the 100 point system. We do not write–up wines which receive a rating of below 85 points. The ratings are as follows: 95-100 90-94 85-89 84 and below

The Market for Chianti Classico Sales of Chianti Classico in 2007 are estimated at €270 million on total production of 280 thousand hectoliters (hl.). The US is the single largest consumer of Chianti Classico, at 30% of total sales, even larger than Italy’s 27% share of total sales. The US share has increased from 23% of total sales in 1997 despite the 25% drop in the value of the dollar relative to the Euro over the 1997-2007 decade. For some wineries, the export market is considerably more important than the domestic, Italian market. Felsina, for example, sells 30 percent of its production in Italy but 40% in the U.S. And Castello de Querceto exports 92% of its production.

A wine of distinction A wine of outstanding or superior quality A wine of good to excellent quality Not recommended

Reviews which appear in the report can also be found in our Tasting Notes Archive on www.i-winereview.com If you are a subscriber, you may use the i-WineReview Search to find all reviews of individual producers and their wines. All of the wines reviewed here, with a couple of exceptions, are currently sold or will soon be sold in the U. S.. We report prices and importers when known. $NA indicates prices are unavailable. Some wines are unfortunately, in very short supply and readers will have difficulty finding them. The i-WineReview is more than happy to advise readers where they might get hold of certain wines reviewed in the report. Obviously, the web is a great place to start a search, if local wine shops don’t have them. We also encourage readers to check with our Recommended Retailers throughout the country listed on www.i-winereview.com.

Chianti Classico is costly to produce, about €5 per bottle,. The fact that it is grown on relative small hillside plots that require laborintensive cultivation and harvesting contributes to its costs. Add international transportation, duties, and the margins due importers, distributors, and retailers in the U.S., and even Chianti Classico normale has priced itself out of competition with the entry level imports from Australia, Argentina, and Chile. Also contributing to costs is the limit the DOCG has imposed on Chianti Classico plantings. The per hectare price of the right to plant Chianti Classico is €40-50 thousand today. This compares with about €15 thousand per hectare for planting rights in the larger Chianti region and €1012 thousand per hectare within Chianti Classico for the right to plant IGT. Working in Chianti Classico’s favor is the change in consumer tastes, especially in the US, away from heavily oaked fruit bombs and towards wines of elegance and terroir. Also working in Chianti Classico’s favor is the diminishing cache of the Super Tuscan IGT. Since the rules and regulations governing IGTs are almost nonexistent, today one can find as many inexpensive, low quality IGTs as expensive prestige bottlings. Consumers are beginning to find that the moniker IGT says little about quality, at the same time that Chianti Classico and the Gallo Nero increasingly indicate a high minimum quality level.

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Badia a Coltibuono 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 90 It is hard to beat the wines of Roberto Stucchi. This Chianti Classico is a medium light ruby gem that offers aromas of dried cherry fruit and earthy notes on the nose and on the palate. Delicate and wellstructured, the wine offers a medium weight palate, excellent acidity and a lingering finish. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct Napa, CA

Barone Ricasoli 2004 Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio Tuscany ($55) 91 This flagship wine is predominantly Sangiovese with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot aged 18 months in barriques and two years in bottle. It’s deep dark ruby in color with effusive aromas of very ripe black fruit, tar, and tobacco and attacks softly with sweet black fruit, dark olives, and wet earth flavors. This is a well-balanced wine with a layered palate and a nice long, flavorful finish. Impressive!

Badia a Coltibuono 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($27) 89 The 2005 Riserva displays a medium dark ruby color with a garnet rim and has black fruit aromas with a touch of vanilla. On the medium-bodied palate, it is dry and tart with excellent acidity and gripping tannins. It is produced from restricted yields of estate-grown fruit with 25 to 50 year-old vines. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, CA

Barone Ricasoli 2003 Chianti Classico Brolio Tuscany ($24) 90 The Chianti Classico Brolio is opaque ruby with a complex nose of violets, cedar and underlying dark currant fruit. It is soft on the attack and offers ripe, black fruit with bitter chocolate notes and a full round mouth feel. Nicely structured with excellent balance and layered flavors. The finish is long with mature tannins.

Banfi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 89 The Banfi 2006 Chianti Classico is predominately Sangiovese with small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium dark ruby in color, it offers fresh dark fruit aromas of boysenberry and blackberry and a palate of flavorful ripe fruit. It also exhibits excellent balance and structure and a persistent finish. A lovely wine offered at a great price. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, NY

Barone Ricasoli 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rocca Guicciarda Tuscany ($24) 88 Made from 50% estate and 50% purchased grapes aged 16 months in oak. It’s dark ruby in color with aromas of earth and leather and a gamey note. On the palate, it shows quite traditional, earthy flavors and a nice long, ripe finish of jammy plum fruit and gentle tannins.

Banfi 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($21) 90 Medium ruby to the rim. Aromas of pure cherry fruit and plum followed by a lovely soft textured attack and an elegant palate. Nicely balanced with good acidity and round firm tannins. Exemplary traditional winemaking. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, NY

Barone Ricasoli 2007 Torricella Tuscany ($25) 89 A medium lemon colored, 100% Chardonnay from estate grown fruit, aged in new barrels and stainless steel for six months. The sweet aromas of Chardonnay fruit give way to a very well balanced, fresh fruit palate with good acidity. Finishes clean and crisp.

Barone Ricasoli is one of the largest and oldest wineries in Chianti Classico with 500 acres of vineyards—all located around the Brolio Castle—and producing two million bottles of wine annually. Francesco Ricasoli has been aggressively replanting its vineyards and modernizing its winery since regaining control of the company in 1993. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA , New York, NY

Barone Ricasoli 2003 Vin Santo Tuscany ($41) 91 The 2003 Vin Santo is predominantly Malvasia with a touch of Sangiovese slowly fermented 24 months in wood followed by 24 months in of 225 liter oak caratelli. It’s amber in color with aromas of dried apricot, orange marmalade, and a hint of caramel. The palate is medium sweet with apricot and butterscotch flavors. Finishes clean. Bibbiano 2006 Chianti Classico Bibbiano Tuscany ($NA) 88 This medium red ruby Chianti Classico displays lovely fragrant aromas of morello cherry and earthy notes followed by an attack of soft round and ripe red and black fruit flavors on the palate. A delicious wine with purity of flavor and excellent balance.

Barone Ricasoli 2006 Campo Ceni Tuscany ($88) 88 A medium dark ruby blend of 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot aged six months in French barriques. There are brambly blackberry aromas with earth notes on the nose, followed by a soft attack of dark cherry and loam flavors.

Bibbiano 2006 Chianti Classico Montornello Tuscany ($NA) 87 The Chianti Classico Montornello exhibits a dark ruby color with a distinctly earthy character of red and black fruit and wet forest floor aromas. On the palate it reveals soft and easy drinking black fruit flavors, round tannins, good balance and a pleasant finish.

Barone Ricasoli 2004 Casalferro Tuscany ($50) 92 The 2004 Casalferro is a 70/30 Sangiovese and Merlot blend aged 18 months in new barriques. The Sangiovese is carefully selected from the best vineyards. It’s opaque ruby color with a lovely, exotic nose of violets, tobacco, blackberry liqueur, and toasty oak. There are layered flavors of tobacco, dark chocolate, minerals and underbrush on the round, soft palate. This is a superbly balanced, powerful wine with well managed tannins and a long, long finish. Superb!

Borgo Scopeto 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($24) 88 The 2005 Borgo Scopeto is medium light ruby in color and offers aromas of black cherry with touches of violets and vanilla. On the palate it has a rather dry attack combining flavors of plum and black cherry with good acidity and balance and well rounded tannins on a long finish. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Inc. Birmingham, AL

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Borgo Scopeto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Misciano Tuscany ($34) 89 The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva is medium dark ruby with aromas of red and black smoky fruit and a touch of spice. On the palate it reveals a soft attack with dry tart black fruit compote flavors. A bigger wine than the Chianti Classico, it displays round tannins and a pleasantly tart finish. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Inc. Birmingham, AL

Cantalici 2004 Chianti Classico Messer Ridolfo Tuscany ($33) 88 The 2004 Chianti Classico produced by brothers Carlo and Daniele Cantalici is a 100% Sangiovese. Medium dark ruby in color, it displays aromas of cranberry and spice followed by a palate of earthy red and black fruit flavors with tartness and tannic grip on the finish. Importer: Vias, New York, NY Cantalici 2004 L’Antic Fornace di Ridolfo Cantalici Riserva Chianti Classico Tuscany ($21) 87 This Chianti Classico Riserva is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a medium ruby color and an attractive nose of red fruit with a touch of cinnamon and toast. Sweet on the attack, it features candied red fruit, rounded tannins and a firm finish. Importer: Vias, New York, NY

Brancaia-Barbara Kronenbeg-Widmer makes Brancaia’s wine with the assistance of famed consulting oenologist Dr. Carlo Ferrini. This estate gained sudden fame in 1983 when it won a major Chianti Classico competition, and it has never looked back since. Today, the estate comprises 60 acres of vines, about 65% planted to Sangiovese and 30% planted to Merlot. In 1998, the Widmer family purchased a second, 100 acre estate in the Maremma with the first harvest in 2000. Importer: William Grant & Sons, New York, NY

Capannelle is located in Gaiole and produces close to 6,000 cases of high quality Chianti Classico and IGT wines. The estate is owned by James B. Sherwood, founder and shareholder of the Orient Express Group Hotels. The wines are produced under the direction of enologist, Simone Monciatti. Importer: Empson USA Inc., Alexandria, VA

Brancaia 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($35) 91 An 85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot blend aged 16 months in 50% new French barriques. The fruit comes from two vineyards that provide complementary flavors. The Poppi is lower altitude and contributes earth and dark fruit flavors, while the Brancaia is high altitude and contributes elegance and red fruit flavors. The wine is medium dark ruby in color with aromas of red plum, herbs, and raspberry liqueur. The palate is fresh and layered with flavors of dark cherry, vanilla, and smoke. Finishes with nice firm tannins and an appealing note of bitter cherry pit. All told, an exceptional wine!

Capannelle 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($50) 91 The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva displays a medium dark ruby color with a garnet rim. It’s aromas are of red fruit and baking spice. Medium weight, it possesses an elegant palate of red plum flavors and notes of vanilla with purity, lovely balance and a nice long lasting finish.

Brancaia 2006 Tre Tuscany ($20) 88 A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Chianti Classico and the Maremma aged 12 months in 50% new French tonneaux. Medium ruby with brambly red fruit aromas. Bright plum flavors on the uncomplicated palate with herbal and blueberry notes. Finishes long with berry fruit flavors.

Capannelle 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($50) 88 The 2003 riserva is not as flavorful or as elegant as the 2004 but is still very good. It is medium dark ruby in color and has black and red fruit aromas with a tea note. Medium weight on the palate it reveals good acidity with dark plum fruit and spice flavors and is well-balanced.

Brancaia 2006 Il Blu Tuscany ($70) 92 A blend of 50% Sangiovese, 45% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 20 months in 2/3 new French barriques. Medium dark ruby color with tea leaves, toasty oak, and penetrating violet aromas. Exhibits a red and black fruit palate of impressive depth and power followed by a ripe tannic finish showing sweet, toasty vanilla oak notes.

Capannelle 2001 Solare Tuscany ($108) 90 This IGT is a blend of Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera and is imbued with an opaque garnet ruby color and a complex nose of dried black fruit, earth, and forest floor. Medium-weight on the palate, it reveals black berry fruit with cedar and black olive. It is slightly astringent on the mid-palate but finishes with very sweet, dense black fruit.

Brancaia 2006 Ilatraia Tuscany ($70) 92 A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese, and 10% Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 50% new French barriques. Dark ruby color with effusive aromas of ripe fresh plum and expensive French oak. Shows a soft attack of blackberry, vanilla, and creamy milk chocolate. Finishes with terrific persistence of juicy dark fruit and toasty oak.

Carpineto 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 The 2006 Carpineto is medium dark ruby in color and offers aromas of black cherry fruit, herbs and a touch of hay. On the attack it reveals ripe and concentrated blackberry and black cherry fruit with a soft mid palate and a firm finish. Importer: Opici Import Company,

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Casaloste 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 85 The oenologist Giovanni Battista d’Orsi is owner and manager of the Fattoria Casaloste, located in Panzano. This rustic dark ruby garnet 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico exhibits red fruit and a touch of dank cellar aromas on the nose, followed by rather dry red fruit flavors on the palate. The wine finishes with some hard tannins.

Castello D’Albola is located in Radda and consists of 157 acres of vineyards situated at 1,500 to 1,600 ft. The winery is owned and operated by the Zonin family, Italy’s largest wine company. The wines produced at this state are quintessential high quality Chianti Classico. Importer: Zonin USA Inc, Charlottesville, VA

Casaloste 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 88 This dark ruby 100% Sangiovese riserva shows black fruit and herbal aromas and a very dry palate of dense black fruit and strong undertones of herbs, brush, and chocolate. The finish is quite tannic.

Castello D'Albola 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 87 An uncomplicated, easy drinking entry level Chianti Classico. Offers a medium red ruby color and a perfumed light cherry nose with touches of toast. The wine finishes soft with round tannins and dry sweet fruit flavors.

Casa Sola 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($23) 88 This Chianti Classico displays red fruit and earth aromas and a medium-bodied palate of fresh red and black fruit flavors, medium weight, lovely texture, and good acidity. It has a persistent and slightly bitter finish. Importer: USA Export Solutions Jersey City, NJ

Castello D'Albola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($28) 91 This Chianti Classico is deep ruby in color with aromas of dark cherry and black olives with a roasted meat note. Its attack is soft and lush, with a very nicely textured and velvety smooth palate of smoky black fruit. It’s fantastic with ragout of cingale (wild boar).

Casa Sola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($27) 89 The medium ruby garnet riserva offers spicy red and black fruit aromas and flavors with a touch of sandalwood. It is nicely concentrated, has excellent acidity and balance, and a round pleasant finish. Importer: USA Export Solutions Jersey City, NJ

Castello D’ Albola Chianti Classico Le Ellere ($20) 89 This 100% Sangiovese is medium ruby-garnet in color with a fresh Morello cherry nose. Aged 12 months in Alliers barriques, it is of medium weight with red cherry fruit and vanilla notes on the palate. Flavorful, well-balanced and easy drinking, it finishes sweet and long.

Castell' in Villa 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($30) 89 This dark ruby wine is made of 100% Sangiovese aged in traditional Chianti casks for 12 months. It has a nose of roasted meats, tobacco, and wild black cherry. The palate of dark fruit and tobacco is very dry and could benefit from more time in the bottle. Domaine Select, New York, NY

Castello di Ama 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($70) 89 The 2005 Castello di Ama exhibits a lovely medium ruby color with aromas of fresh cranberry and pomegranate with hints of black pepper. On the palate it is silky smooth and offers rather tart red fruit flavors with high acidity, firm tannins and a dry and slightly bitter finish. Importer: The Sorting Table Napa, CA

Castellare Di Castellina 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($15) 87 Displaying a medium dark ruby color, this Chianti Classico offers scents of fresh red and black berry fruit with touches of cassis. It has a soft attack with a slightly tart mid-palate, spicy and rustic black fruit flavors, and dry tannins on a long finish. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

Castello di Bossi 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 Castello di Bossi's 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico displays a medium dark ruby color with aromas of ripe, red and black cherry fruit and toasted oak. It is full flavored with good balance and offers a long lasting and satisfying finish Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

Castellare Di Castellina 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva ($35) 88 The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva displays a deep ruby color and aromas of black fruit and cedar. It offers a soft attack of lush black fruit flavors on the palate and is rich and concentrated with good balance and a soft round finish. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

Castello di Bossi 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo Tuscany ($41) 89 The 2003 Riserva Bernandro, dark ruby with an opaque core, offers jammy red and black fruit, balsamic notes and toast on the palate. Rather traditional and earthy in character, it finishes somewhat short and slightly dry but has a lot of personality. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

Castellare Di Castellina 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggiale Tuscany ($45) 90 The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggiale is a big wine with a deep dark ruby color and a garnet rim. Its aromas are of high toned black fruit with a touch of vanilla and toast. Soft attack on the attack, it displays a lush mouth feel with concentrated black fruit flavors. It is well balanced with a firm finish and big tannic grip. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

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Castello di Cacchiano 2005 Rosso Tuscany ($NA) 88 This is a medium ruby blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot, Canaiolo, and Malvasia Nera aged 30 months in oak barrels and cement vats. Light cherry and garrique aromas introduce a medium weight palate of brambly cherry, tobacco and tea, finishing with firm tannins.

Castello di Cachiano. Giovanni Ricasoli-Firidolfi has led the renovation of this ancient wine estate dating from the 12th century. The top priority of this renewal has been the vineyard, where the old vineyards planted by Giovanni’s father in the early 1970s are gradually being replaced with high density plantings of the best Sangiovese clones. The fruits of this effort are only just beginning to be reflected in the wines. In top vintages, the estate produces only riservas and almost always blends Sangiovese with Merlot. Cacchiano’s future looks bright indeed. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections , New York, NY

Castello di Cacchiano 2000 Vin Santo Tuscany ($NA) 92 An amber colored, medium sweet nectar of 85% Malvasia Bianca and 15% Canaiolo dried on wooden grates for two months and aged six years in oak caratelli of 50 to 150 liters. Rich caramel and crème brulee aromas give way to lovely, layered flavors of toasted almond and rich butterscotch and a superb, long finish.

Castello di Cacchiano 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($40) 91 Medium dark ruby in color with a plenitude of chocolate, toasted oak, and rich red fruit aromas. The texture is soft and elegant with a beautifully balanced, rich red fruit palate of excellent depth and purity and a long, flavorful smoke and cherry finish. This is a wine at or near its peak – buy and consume now.

Castello di Cacchiano 2001 Vin Santo Tuscany ($80) 92 Mahogany in color (due to the relatively high share—30%--of Canaiolo) with aromas of Oloroso sherry, orange zest, and toasted almonds. Reveals a complex flavor profile of coffee liqueur, brown sugar, and toasted walnuts. Different from most Vin Santo and incredibly good!

Castello di Cacchiano 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 90 This medium dark ruby blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Canaiolo (5%) is aged 30 months in French oak, which shows on the expressive nose of toasty oak, wet earth, and game. There are flavors of tobacco, loamy earth, and red fruit with an expressive finish of vanilla and tobacco.

Castello di Fonterutoli - Under the direction of Filippo Mazzei the Castello di Fonterutoli has modernized its winemaking with a gravity flow winery and 100 hectoliter temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with microoxygenation. Grapes from more than 120 different parcels are fermented and aged separately. Modernization of the winery is matched by improvements in the vineyards, which are being systematically replanted over time. Importer: Palm Bay International, Syosset, NY

Castello di Cacchiano 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($40) 93 Dark garnet ruby with ripe, rich, syrupy aromas of balsamic, mushrooms, and Pedro Ximenez. The rich, ripe, full palate is very nicely balanced with multiple layers of red and black fruit, loam and caramelized nuts, and the finish is long and rich with ripe tannins. This lovely wine from a superb vintage is at its peak. Drink now!

Castello di Fonterutoli 2006 Poggio alla Badiola Tuscany ($13) 87 A medium dark ruby blend of 75% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot with a nose of red berries, blueberries, and spice. The palate is soft with red plum flavors and somewhat astringent tannins.

Castello di Cacchiano 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($26) 89 A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo aged 23 months in a variety of French oak casks. There’s a pleasant nose of dark earth, brambles, and deep cherry with a nice, fresh mouth feel. The palate is nicely balanced with dusty, dark red fruit and firm tannins.

Castello di Fonterutoli 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($27) 90 Dark ruby blend of 90% Sangiovese plus Malvasia Nera, Colorino, and Merlot. Dark cherry, earth, violets, garrique and a touch of tar show on the nose. The palate is soft and lush with sweet, black fruit, loam, and milk chocolate flavors. The finish is medium-long with firm tannins.

Castello di Cacchiano 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 91 Medium dark ruby with forest floor and cedar spice aromas. Gives a somewhat showy attack that evolves to a full, ripe palate with notes of cedar oak and cigar box that complement the cherry fruit.

Castello di Fonterutoli 2005 Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli Tuscany ($60) 92 This is an opaque ruby blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon showing a beautifully fragrant nose of violets, black fruit, dark chocolate, and licorice. Flavors of sweet black fruit, coconut, chocolate, and baking spice unfold on the soft, lush palate. Ripe, firm tannins round out the finish.

Castello di Cacchiano 2006 Merlot Tuscany ($NA) 91 A yet to be released, opaque ruby Merlot aged in mostly new barriques. There are very showy aromas of blueberry, dark chocolate and mint that carry over to the rich, dark red fruit palate. Finishes with gripping, ripe tannins. Look for this one to hit your favorite wine store.

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Castello di Fonterutoli 2005 Siepi Tuscany ($110) 91 The 2005 Siepi is an opaque ruby 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Merlot with an expressive nose of dark cherry, cassis, and toasty, smoky oak. It’s full and round in the mouth with flavors of dark plum, wet earth, and toasty oak. The long, long flavorful finish ends with a bitter chocolate note.

Castello di Monsanto 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio Tuscany ($60) 94 A medium dark ruby fruit bomb from the classic 2001 vintage, showing a bouquet of dark cherry, licorice, and bitter chocolate. The incredibly complex palate is full-bodied and elegant palate with flavors of dark cherry, plum, milk chocolate, graphite and minerals.

Castello di Meleto 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($27) 89 This large Gaiole estate's Chianti Classico displays a dark ruby color with fresh scents of black fruit and toast. It is soft on the attack with sweet, black fruit., good concentration and clean flavors. A mature wine ready to drink. Importer:Vias, New York, NY

Castello di Monsanto 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio Tuscany ($60) 93 Medium garnet with a brick rim, the 1995 vintage offers a nose of fragrant red fruit, dried cherries, and caramelized nuts followed by a soft, complex and still fresh palate of ripe plum, dried red fruit, and notes of cigar box and minerals. Finishes long and flavorful with still gripping tannins. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA New York,

Castello di Monastero 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 87 The 2005 Chianti Classico is a light-bodied blend of 85% Sangiovese, 8% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 6 months in small oak barrels, it displays a medium light ruby color and spicy herbal aromas with toasty notes. It offers a pleasant attack of black and red fruit, moderate concentration and a dry tart palate and finish .Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons , White Plains, NY

Castello di Monsanto 1982 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio Tuscany ($NA) 93 This medium garnet-brick, orange rimmed complex wine is a classic IL Poggio. Wafts of forest floor and tobacco with a licorice note provide a first introduction, followed by a soft, lush texture and flavors of earth, tobacco and dried cranberry. The highly mineral finish is long and a tad astringent. A great food wine!

Castello di Monastero 2005 Chianti Superiore Tuscany ($17) 87 The Superiore is also a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is medium light ruby and offers scents of black and red fruit and spice. Aged for six months in small oak barrels, it displays a soft attack, ripe fruit palate but finishes somewhat astringent. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY

The Castello di Querceto is a 190 hectare estate (60 ha. of vines) located in a small valley about seven miles from Greve. The François family has owned it since 1897. Alessandro François, manager of the estate since 1978, has introduced numerous changes in the vineyard and winery which today positions Castello de Querceto among the leading estates of Chianti Classico. Among the changes introduced is the production of several single vineyard crus, including the Il Picchio Chianti Classico Riserva. Fully 92% of the Castello’s production is exported, with the major markets being the US, Germany, and Korea. Importer: Prestige Wine Imports New York, NY

Castello di Monsanto is a heavily wooded estate of 206 hectares, including 72 hectares of mostly Sangiovese vines. Vineyard soil includes both Galestri (stratified, petrified clay) and Tufi (sedimentary strata of marine sands). Owner Fabrizio Bianchi has been a pioneer of new viticulture and winemaking techniques since purchasing the estate in 1962. Monsanto makes wines ranging from Chianti Classico to the IGT Toscana Nemo. Our tasting at the winery focused almost exclusively on the single vineyard “Il Poggio”. Il Poggio is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo and Colorino that is aged 18 months in one and two year old French oak barriques. Il Poggio, first produced in 1962, is Chianti Classico’s first single vineyard cru. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA New York, NY

Castello di Querceto 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($14) 89 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a blend of 92% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo that’s deep ruby purple in color with aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, and pepper and flavors of dark berries and a hint of menthol. It is a nicely balanced and somewhat refined Chianti with a touch of ash on the dry gripping finish. Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($24) 90 The grapes (95% Sangiovese) for this dark ruby, almost opaque Riserva are selected in the vineyard before harvest, and the wine is aged in barriques for about 12 months. Lovely aromas of dark fruit and sage give way to a soft but firmly textured attack showing black fruit, licorice, and smoky oak.

Castello di Monsanto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio Tuscany ($65) 94 Aromas of Tuscan underbrush, tobacco, and ripe plum introduce this medium dark ruby classic. There’s a lovely, fresh palate of milk chocolate, red plum, and smoked nuts and a long, very flavorful finish of minerals and cherry liqueur.

Castello di Querceto 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 91 The deep ruby, superbly balanced 2005 Riserva shows boysenberry, underbrush, and field herbs on the nose. The soft palate offers a mélange of flavors, including ripe, dark plum, black olives and black raspberry.

Castello di Monsanto 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio Tuscany ($60) 91 This medium-dark ruby IL Poggio from a hot vintage shows ripe, fruit forward aromas of almost jammy dark bing cherry and sandalwood. The attack is soft and fleshy with flavors of plum jam, cigar box, and dark chocolate. Finishes with ripe, mature tannins.

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Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva IL Picchio Tuscany ($40) 91 This opaque ruby riserva is sourced from the low yielding IL Picchio vineyard. It offers spicy black cherry fruit on the nose. Aged in oak barrels for 12-14 months it reveals a full throttled attack of lush red and black fruit and a full rich mouth feel. It has great balance, good acidity and a firm ripe finish.

Castello di Verrazzano 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($43) 89 Dark ruby to the rim, this warm climate Chianti Classico shows a very ripe nose of cherry fruit with notes of cedar and a touch of licorice. It is soft and savory on the palate with very ripe dark dried fruit notes, good balance, round tannins, and a nice long finish Importer: Palm Bay International, Syosset, NY

Castello di Querceto 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva IL Picchio Tuscany ($40) 93 The single vineyard Il Picchio is opaque ruby with a purple rim. There are effusive scents of herbs, berries, and shrubs and a dense, viscous mouth feel of lovely, rich blackberry fruit, tar, and dark earth. This is a silky wine of wonderful balance and texture, and it finishes long with blueberry and smoke notes.

Dating from the 12th century, the Castello di Volpaia may be the most photogenic and charming winery in all of Chianti, a region that is run amok with quaint, historic sites. And Giovannella Stianti, owner of the Fattoria Castello di Volpaia, is one of the most gracious and generous hosts in Chianti, where hospitality at the winery reigns supreme. The Volpaia estate is 390 hectares, of which 47 are planted in vineyards. Ricardo Cotarella is consulting winemaker. Volpaia wines have a distinct personality – highly perfumed, pure fruit, and long ripe finishes with soft tannins. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd. St. Helena, CA

Castello di Querceto 1990 Chianti Classico Riserva IL Picchio Tuscany ($NA) The 1990 Il Picchio is dark garnet ruby with a dark brick rim. Hay and earth show on the nose, and dried cherry, leather and anise flavors appear on the palate. It has nice structure and balance and finishes long and spicy. This is a good example of how Chianti Classico ages, developing elegant secondary notes over time.

Castello di Volpaia 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($23) 88 The regular bottling is a medium dark ruby blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot and Syrah with aromas reminiscent of cherry pie. It is soft on the palate with pure fruit flavors that carry through to the long and pleasing finish.

Castello di Querceto 2003 Cingale Tuscany ($90) 92 This is another single vineyard cru produced from 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot fruit from the Ponticini – La Sorgente vineyard and aged 20-24 months in French barriques. This opaque ruby beauty shows aromas of forest floor, cassis and garden herbs with a very soft attack of smoky, dark berry fruit with accents of cedar and toasty oak.

Castello di Volpaia 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($34) 89 The standard reserve is medium dark ruby color with fresh cherry fruit and spice aromas. It shows good concentration of candied cherries on the palate with blueberry, pepper, and garrique notes. Finishes with supple, ripe tannins.

Castello di Querceto 2003 IL Sole di Alessandro Tuscany ($42) 92 This Super Tuscan is a saturated opaque ruby, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 24 months in barriques, 20% of which is new oak. The fruit for this single vineyard cru comes from the L’ischiata vineyard. Aromas of black currants, cedar and wild herbs give way to a soft attack and dense, dark extracted flavors of figs, graphite, minerals and black olive tapenade. Absolutely delicious!

Castello di Volpaia 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala Tuscany ($54) 92 A dark ruby 95% Sangiovese, 5% Mammolo blend from the lowyielding (1.8 tons/acre) single vineyard Coltassala, located at 1450 feet above sea level. Aged about 18 months in small French barriques, it shows a beautiful, perfumed bouquet of blackberry jam and smoky oak and a very fruity attack of concentrated blackberry fruit. Finishes long and lovely with purity of fruit and good acidity. An exceptional wine from an exceptional locale!

Castello di Querceto 2004 La Corte Tuscany ($37) 90 Rich blackberry, dried plums, and herbs emanate from the glass of this opaque ruby, 100% Sangiovese Super Tuscan from grapes grown in the La Corte vineyard and aged 12 months in 20% new oak. This is a big, bold wine with flavors of black fruit, olives, tar and licorice and a touch of bitter cocoa. It finishes long and soft with violet notes.

Castello di Volpaia 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala Tuscany ($46) 90 Medium dark ruby, fading to the rim. Aromas of black cherry fruit, sandalwood, baking spice, toasted oak, coffee. Lovely, soft attack of concentrated fruit with smoky notes. Nicely balanced with firm tannins on the finish.

Castello di Tornano 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($18) 90 Deep ruby through the rim with expresso, touch of leather, and dried dark fruit aromas. This is a nicly integrated, well-balanced wine with a rich attach and slightly drying tannins on the finish.. Should be a great food wine—try with osso buco. Importer: Margerum Wine Company , Los Olivos, CA

Castello di Volpaia 1990 Coltassala Tuscany ($NA) 93 Dark garnet with an orange rim and aromas of earth, leather, prunes, and dried fruit. There’s an expressive layered and dense palate of black olives, tar, forest floor and a touch of palo cortado sherry. Still firmly tannic, this is a wine past its prime but still extremely enjoyable with incredible richness and complexity. If you have the good fortune to have one in your cellar, open it soon to celebrate the next special occasion that comes along.

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Castello di Volpaia 2005 Balifico Tuscany ($48) 91 The 2005 Balifico is an opaque ruby blend of 2/3 Sangiovese, 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak barriques for 18 months. It exhibits effusive scents of smoky oak, cassis and earth and a layered palate of sweet, concentrated fruit. Finishes with gripping, sweet tannins. Powerful but not elegant.

Fattoria di Cinciano 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($30) 88 Medium dark ruby garnet in color, this riserva offers aromas of plum and red and black fruit flavors on the palate. Easy drinking and very tasty with a long lasting fruity finish. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

Castello di Volpaia 2000 Vin Santo Tuscany (375ml $35) 90 The 2000 Vin Santo is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia. It’s light amber in color with aromas of toffee, apricots, and golden raisins. The palate is soft and sweet with flavors of rum-soaked raisins. Finishes long and semi-sweet.

Fattoria La Ripa 2007 Chianti Classico ($NA) 87 La Ripa is an ancient estate, once owned by the father of Mona Lisa, famously painted by da Vinci. The wine is produced from the estate’s own 400 meter high vineyards near San Casciano. This Chianti Classico is a very young fresh easy-drinking fruit-driven wine with black and red fruit aromas and notes of black pepper. It is soft on the attack with good fruit concentration and flavors and a firm finish.

Castello Vicchiomaggio 2006 Chianti Classico San Jacopo Tuscany ($20) 85 The Chianti Classico San Jacopo displays an opaque ruby color and aromas of charred oak and black fruit. It is soft on the attack and reveals ripe fruit, but heavily charred oak flavors overwhelm the fruit, and the finish is dry.

Fattoria La Ripa 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva ($NA) 88 The riserva is dark ruby in color with pretty, perfumed plum and black cherry vanilla aromas. It has a soft and lush attack of ripe, dark fruit of high acidity and finishes with round, gripping tannins. Needs a little more time in bottle.

Castello Vicchiomaggio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Agostino Petri Tuscany ($35) 88 The Riserva Petri has a lovely deep ruby color and an exotic, spicy, and intensely aromatic nose. On the attack it is smooth and velvety with ripe black and red fruits and mushroom. It is nicely balanced and integrated with a firm finish. A big step up from the San Jacopo.

Fatorria Nittardi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 89 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a very pleasant fresh tasting wine imbued with spicy black cherry fruit aromas and a soft attack of lovely ripe mouth filling fruit and toasted cedar. It is well balanced with a firm finish. Very well done. Fattoria Rodano 2004 Chianti Classico Castellina in Chianti ($18) 87 Vittorio Pozzesi (member of the Consorzio board of directors) and his son Enrico manage the Rodano winery, advised by winemaker Giulio Gambelli. The fruit comes from southwest facing vineyards in the Castellina district. This is a medium dark ruby, traditionally styled Chianti aged in large, oak botti and showing aromas of earth, cedar and game. It’s sweet but very dry on the palate with dark red fruit in the foreground. Finishes with dry tannins. Enotec Imports, Denver CO

Castello Vicchiomaggio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva La Prima Tuscany ($48) 90 Dark ruby in color, this riserva, the best of this trio, displays aromas of brambly black cherry fruit followed by sweet vanilla, baking spice and toasted oak. It is soft and sweet on the palace with sweet spicy red and black fruit flavors, tobacco, and a typical bitter finish. Cecchi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 88 The 2006 Cecchi Chianti Classico is medium dark ruby and displays aromas of creamy framboise and vanilla coke. On the palate it offers a soft attack of ripe red and black fruit, along with soft tannins and a persistent finish. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, New York

Fattoria Viticcio - The Landini family has owned and managed the Fattoria Viticcio, located near Greve, since 1964. After writing his university thesis on “The Economics of Chianti”, current owner Alessandro Landini has overseen a number of reforms in the winery and the vineyard, including the conversion to biodynamic agriculture. Fattoria Viticcio produces modern international style wines of high quality and style. Importer: Sherbrooke Cellars White Plains, NY

Da Vinci 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 This is a dark ruby, earthy Chianti Classico consisting of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino. It displays scents of forest floor, mushroom and herbs. It has a nicely balanced palate with black cherry fruit, a touch of tar, nice soft tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Well done. Importer: Da Vinci, USA Healdsburg, CA Da Vinci 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($22) 87 The riserva is 100% Sangiovese and is aged 12 for months in French oak. Dark ruby in color, it displays a fruit forward nose of spicy black fruit with a touch of pepper and licorice. It is soft on the attack with rich, ripe clean black fruit and bitter chocolate notes. The finish is dry and astringent and somewhat short. Importer: Da Vinci, USA Healdsburg, CA

Fattoria Viticcio 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($21) 87 This 2006 Chianti Classico is dark ruby blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot and emits aromas of blackberry, plum and Tuscan underbrush. The medium weight palate provides flavors of dark fruit, minerals, and licorice with gripping ripe tannins and a dry finish. This is an uncomplicated wine that is still young and tight. This wine will age well and offer pleasure for years to come.

Fattoria di Cinciano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 Medium ruby in color, this youthful Chianti Classico displays a pure fruit nose of raspberry and dried cherry. On the palate, it reveals brambly and spicy red berry fruit with good texture, high acidity and a lingering finish. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

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Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($30) 90 The Riserva is a traditionally styled Chianti aged in 80% French, 20% American used oak. It’s medium dark ruby in color with a nose of black fruit, tar, violets, and vanilla oak. Round and full on the palate, there are abundant rich flavors of licorice, blackberry, loam, and sweet oak.

Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Tuscany ($45) 93 Aromas of dark red fruit, sandalwood, and perfumed, toasted oak flow from this dark ruby 100% Sangiovese, which is aged 18 months in small and medium oak barrels. This is a wine of impressive depth and fullness on the palate with black raspberry, grilled meat, and hints of mocha and dark chocolate. Amazingly long, sweet finish of framboise and cedar with gripping, ripe tannins. Superb!

Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius Tuscany ($40) 90 This modern style Chianti with a dark ruby core and cherry red rim is aged in 1/3 new French and American oak. Fresh oak and black and red fruit aromas give way to a lovely, lush mouthful of refined dark red fruit, garrique, spice and tar. A very attractive wine.

Felsina 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Tuscany ($40) 89 Showing deep ruby with slight garnet rim, the 2001 Rancia has an amazingly youthful appearance. The bouquet includes spicy dark fruit, framboise and a hint of tobacco. It’s soft and full in the mouth with significant depth of flavor and ripe, gentle tannins.

Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Monile ($40) 89 The mix of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot in this very dark ruby wine is aged 18 months in 50% new oak. Earth, cassis, and toasty oak characterize the nose. It’s lush and full in the mouth with very ripe, sweet flavors of licorice, dark fruit, prune, and smoky oak and finishes with hints of violets and blueberries. A blockbuster with gripping tannins!

Felsina 1994 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Tuscany ($50) 95 The 1994 Rancia is deep garnet with a brick rim, showing complex aromas of tea, cigar box, dried dark cherries and a soft, gentle attack of perfectly integrated flavors. Dried fruit, mocha, and loam flavors predominate on the rich, densely packed palate. There are dry tannins on the long, long finish of smoky heather.

Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Prunaio Tuscany ($NA) 91 The 100% dark ruby Sangiovese Prunaio is aged 14 months in oak, half of it new. There are violets and toasty oak on the nose with red and black fruit flavors, a velvety soft mouth feel, and a ripe, tannic finish of violets and raspberries.

Felsina 2005 Fontalloro Tuscany ($56) 96 This100% Sangiovese from Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senesi is a wine of impressive texture and depth. Aged 20 months in barriques, it is saturated, dark ruby to the rim with aromas of dark cherry, cedar, and bitter chocolate. A sweet, rich ripe fruit attack is succeeded by a rich black cherry palate with mocha and black earth notes. Extraordinarily harmonious and balanced with a long, long palate staining finish.

The Fattoria di Felsina, formerly part of a complex owned by Benedictine monks, is located in the very southeast corner of Chianto Classico adjoining the territory of Chianti Colli Senesi. Proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei regularly craft some of the most outstanding wines of the Chianti region. The wines are also offered at terrific prices in view of their quality. Felsina wines are widely distributed throughout the United States and internationally.

Felsina 2001 Fontalloro Tuscany ($35) 93 The 2001 Fontalloro is dark ruby with a garnet rim and aromas of wet earth, tea leaves, cigar box and an underpinning of mature red plum fruit. It has a very rich, integrated, silky smooth palate of ripe plum and mocha and shows sweet tannins on the finish.

Felsina 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 90 Here’s a dark ruby, 100% Sangiovese from 50+ year old vines that exhibits black raspberry and dark cherry fruit aromas that carry over to the silky palate, with notes of heather underbrush. It has a pure, long finish.

Felsina 1997 Fontalloro Tuscany ($40) 96 This Fontalloro from Tuscany’s vintage of the century has an opaque ruby core and amber rim and shows intense, expressive aromas of dark cherry, tobacco, and wet earth with a gamy note. Very sweet on the multi-faceted palate with integrated flavors of super-ripe plum, mocha, and cigar box.

Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 92 Aromas of framboise, cigar box, and underlying red cherry fruit emanate from this medium dark ruby, 100% old vine Sangiovese. The sappy fresh, cherry and raspberry fruit carries over to the palate. Finishes with terrific, juicy framboise and cedar notes.

Felsina 1995 Fontalloro Tuscany ($40) 94 Over a decade old, the 1995 Fontalloro is dark garnet with an amber rim and showing highly perfumed aromas of smoke, plum, and tobacco. The very soft, elegant palate has a suave texture and lovely, integrated flavors of dried fruit and tea. Felsina 2006 I Sistri Tuscany ($18) 89 This straw gold, 100% Chardonnay with aromas of honey, vanilla, and ripe tropical fruit is a beautifully balanced wine with a sweet, ripe melon palate and excellent acidity. Finishes long and sweet.

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Fontodi 2005 Chianti Classico ($27) 91 Giovanni Manetti makes the wine at Fontodi with the assistance of famed oenologist Franco Bernabei. Their 2005 Chianti Classico is showing beautifully right now. The 12 months it spends in French barriques is perfectly integrated in the fruit. High toned red fruit characterize this wine in all respects—the nose, the palate, and the finish. It has a soft attack with sottobosco aromas and flavors complementing the Morello cherry character.

Le Cinciole - Valeria Vigano and Luca Orsini have created a small, certified organic,13 hectare family winery located near Panzano and represented by famed negociant Marc de Grazia. The winemaking focus of Le Cinciole is to let the terroir shine through the wines. Importer: VinDivino , Chicago, Il Le Cinciole 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($24) 90 This is a medium dark ruby wine with dark cherry, wet earth, and underbrush aromas. It’s full in the mouth with assertive flavors of earth and a beautiful core of pure dark cherry fruit. Finishes long and flavorful with gentle tannins.

Felsina 1999 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Tuscany ($37) 93 This is an outstanding Vin Santo. It’s orange apricot in color with effusive aromas of orange zest and dried apricots and captivatingly sweet flavors of smoky Scotch whiskey and butterscotch.

Le Cinciole 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($32) 90 One of our favorite Chianti Classicos, the superbly balanced, medium dark ruby wine is redolent of black cherry fruit and cedar with a very soft, round palate, a ripe, full mouth-feel, and a long lasting finish. A joy to drink!

Il Borghetto Billacio2004 Chianti Classico Riserva San Casiano Tuscany ($80) 90 The Azienda Agricola il Borghetto is a 30 ha. estate with 6 ha. of vineyards facing the Val di Pesa. The 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico Riserva is Borghetto’s top wine made in small quantities. It is medium dark ruby with enticing aromas of coconut and toasty oak and a nice, sweet attack of ripe cherry fruit and vanilla oak. Finishes sweet and long with mature tannins. Il Borghetto Billacio 2005 Chianti Classico ($NA) 87 This is medium dark ruby in color with aromas of vanilla oak with red berry fruit accent. It has a sweet oak attack with moderate fruit on the palate and finishes with coconut and vanilla flavors and ripe tannins.

Le Cinciole 2005 Camalaione Tuscany ($75) 93 This is an opaque ruby blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 15% Syrah showing black fruit and expensive, toasty French oak and vanilla on the nose. It’s dense and dark on a beautifully balanced palate with flavors of cassis, bittersweet chocolate, smoky toasted oak, and nuances of spice and minerals. It has a long, flavorful finish of dark cassis and smoky oak. All in all, a wine of real power and elegance.

Il Colombaio di Cencio 2004 Massi Chianti Classico Tuscany ($45) 89 Located in Gaiole near the Castello di Brolio, this small estate produces a delicious modern styled Chianti Classico named i Massi. A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, it is medium ruby in color with a fruit forward nose of ripe strawberry and cherry and lightly toasted oak. It is soft on the attack with nicely concentrated red fruit flavors, round tannins and is long lasting on the palate.

Le Cinciole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Petresco Tuscany ($50) 92 The 100% Sangiovese Petresco undergoes malo in used oak and is then aged 18 months in barrique. It’s dark ruby in color with a reticent nose of minerals, black cherry, and garrique and has a soft, lush attack of black and red fruit, smoky oak, and a hint of bitter chocolate. There’s great depth and fullness on a layered, wellbalanced palate as well as a long flavorful finish of dark fruit.

Isole e Olena 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 89 This Chianti Classico normale is medium ruby color with fresh red berry aromas and a note of mint. There’s a soft attack of spicy, ripe red fruit on a medium weight with nice balance and a good gripping finish. Importer: Grape Expectations Wine Imports Raleigh, NC

Le Cinciole 1994 Vecchie Vigne Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 91 This is an antecedent of the Petresco. It has a ruby garnet core with an orange rim and a perfume of earth, leather and dried cherries with a slight musty note. The attack is very soft, and the elegant palate shows minerals, dried cherries, herbs, and a touch of sandalwood.

La Castellina 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 90 The 2005 Chianti Classico displays a medium ruby color with a touch of orange on the rim. It reveals scents of slightly oxidized dried red fruit and earth not unlike a dry oloroso sherry. On the attack, it offers a soft round mouth feel, followed by a well-balanced palate, ripe tannins and a long finish. Importer: Saranty Imports Harrison, NY

Livernano 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($40) 90 This modern-styled Chianti Classico displays a dark ruby color and aromas of black cherry, toasted oak and smoke. On the attack, it offers soft concentrated black cherry fruit, charred oak, chocolate and coffee. It has a velvety mouth feel with perfect balance and finishes with rich and sustained flavors. A terrific wine. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

La Castellina 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($27) 87 The 2003 Chianti Classico is medium dark ruby with a garnet rim. It offers fresh aromas of black cherry and toasted oak with notes of leather. Soft on the attack, it features flavors of dried cherry fruit, savory notes and a touch of earth with slightly austere tannins. Importer: Saranty Imports Harrison, NY

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Mannucci Droandi 2006 Chianti Classico Ceppeto Tuscany ($17) 87 A medium ruby blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and 5% other local varietals. Traditional in style, it offers aromas and flavors of red berry fruit and herbs with high acidity and a short finish.

Ormanni 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 87 A 90/10 blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, medium ruby in color and showing light aromas of fresh red cherries and white pepper. The attack is soft with black fruit and tar flavors, and it finishes with firm tannins.

Massanera 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($17) 86 This 100% Sangiovese displays a medium ruby color with pretty floral aromas and a touch of cedar. It is rather light on the palate with dry fruit flavors and dry tannins on the finish. Importer: Saranty Imports, Harrison, NY

Ormanni 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Borro del Diavolo Tuscany ($NA) 88 Closed aromas of dark cherry and tar introduce this medium dark ruby riserva. The texture is somewhat granular, with a palate of black fruit, dark chocolate and tar. Finishes flavorful but very dry.

Massanera 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany($35) 89 This is a 90% Sangiovese, dark ruby wine aged in French oak barriques. Showing sweet black cherry and toasty oak aromas, the attack is soft and lush. It’s rich, sweet and concentrated on the palate with dark juicy fruit flavors of some depth. Finishes long and sweet with ripe, gripping tannins. A delicious wine! Importer: Saranty Imports, Harrison, NY

Ormanni 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Borro del Diavolo Tuscany ($NA) 87 This is a medium dark ruby, somewhat rustic 100% Sangiovese based wine showing tea, loam and forest floor on the nose. The mouthfeel is lush with flavors of tar, tea, tobacco and licorice. Finishes long with firm tannins. Ormanni 2001 Julius Tuscany ($NA) 88 A blend of 60% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot, and 10% Syrah, this medium dark ruby wine from outside Chianti Classico is lovely to drink with its aromas of tea, underbrush, and black pepper and sweet palate of black fruit, loam, and cigar box.

Melini 2006 Chianti Classico Isassi Tuscany ($17) 87 The single vineyard Chianti Classico Isassi is 100% Sangiovese. It exhibits a medium light ruby color and has a somewhat muted nose of leather and cranberry. Aged for one year in oak, it offers ripe red fruit flavors, light cedar with good acidity and a touch of astringency on the finish. This is a nicely balanced wine and pleasant to drink. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons New York, NY

Panzanello 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 89 This Chianti Classico of 100% Sangiovese displays a dark ruby color and scents of wild black and red fruit. On the palate it reveals a meaty character with lovely ripe black cherry fruit flavors, a soft round attack, ripe tannins, and a long lasting finish.

Melini 2003 La Selvanella Riserva Tuscany ($31) 88 The La Selvanella Riserva exhibits a medium dark garnet color and emits ripe dark cherry compote aromas. Soft on the attack, it offers savory black fruit flavors on a brambly rustic palate. Well balanced like other Melini wines, this bottling is one of the better riservas of a difficult vintage. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons New York, NY

Piegaia 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 90 This Chianti Classico is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. It displays a lovely medium ruby color with aromas of smoky red and black fruit, coffee and spice notes with a touch of cedar. Elegant and refined, it reveals a modern international style with a long tasty finish. An exciting wine offered at a great price. Importer: The Marchetti Co., Cleveland Heights, OH

Montebernardi 2006 Chianti Classico Retromarcia Tuscany ($22) 87 The medium dark ruby Retromarcia shows a spicy nose of nicely balanced aromas. International in style, there’s a delicious attack of vanilla and red fruit.

Podere Il Palazzino 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($33) 88 Medium ruby plus. Fresh cherry with savory and mint notes. Soft attack of dark fruit with spicy cedar. Slightly tannic mid-palate and finish. Importer: VinDivino , Chicago, Il

Monteraponi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($ 24) 88 Enologist Maurizio Castelli does a masterful job at Azienda Agricola Monteraponi, located near Radda. This red ruby wine offers aromas of Morello cherry and raspberry followed by fresh and flavorful red berry fruit, flavors, medium acidity and soft round tannins on the finish.. This is a perfect accompaniment to pizza.

Poggiopiano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 87 Winemaker Luca d’Attoma crafts wines from San Casciano in Val di Pesa fruit. This is a young flavorful easy drinking Chianti Classico. Medium ruby in color, it offers light black cherry fruit aromas and dark cherry fruit flavors on the palate with soft round tannins and a firm finish.

Monteraponi 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($36) 91 The 2004 old vines riserva is medium deep ruby fading to the rim with a nose of cherry, cloves and brambly underbrush. The beauty and elegance of this wine is in the mouth, which has layered flavors of dark fruit.

Poggiopiano 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 89 The dark ruby 2005 Chianti Classico is a little more substantial than the 2006. It offers abundant perfumed black fruit aromas with toasty oak notes and a soft, lush attack. The palate is well-balanced with concentrated black fruit accented by coconut notes.

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Le Corte Corsini (Principe Corsini). The Corsini family has owned the 256 estate Le Corti continuously since 1427. Today, Duccio Corsini is in the process of modernizing the winery--Fattoria Le Corti Corsini—and its 49 hectares of vines. The Corsini family has also had a long involvement in the Maremma. In 1759 it introduced agriculture to this previously malaria infested swamp. In 1995 the Corsinis planted 18 hectares of vineyards and established the winery known as Tenuta Marsiliana, located six miles from the sea. Consultant winemaker is Carlo Ferrini. Importer: Henriot, New York, NY

Agricola Querciabella was established in 1974 and converted to biodynamic agriculture in the year 2000. Its Chianti Classico fruit comes from hilly vineyards as high as 550 meters, some of which are located on Querciabella Mountain, the source of the Greve River. Low altitude vineyards have more clay soil and produce relatively low acid wine of great structure. The high altitude vineyards have rocky, nutrient-poor soil that produces more elegant but less powerful wines of higher acidity. Winemaker Guido De Santi produces 130 separate lots of wine from the low and high altitude portions of 30 different Sangiovese vineyard parcels before blending and bottling. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA Oakland, CA

Principe Corsini 2005 Chianti Classico Don Tommaso Tuscany ($36) 92 Selected from the best fruit of all the vineyards and aged 15 months in mostly new Allier oak, this dark ruby, flavorful blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot is Le Corti’s flagship wine. The nose of spicy black cherry and violets introduces a soft rich attack of sweet blackberry, graphite and smoke. Beautifully balanced, it finishes long with ripe, gripping tannins.

Querciabella 2007 Batar Tuscany ($NA) 91 An exotic 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Bianco barrel fermented blend from biodynamic vineyards. Matured in 100% French (50% new) barrels for 9+ months. The wine reaches full maturity about 42 months after harvest, and buyers are advised to drink it between 4 and 12 years of age. This unique wine is yellow gold color with an effusive nose of crème caramel. It’s very soft on the honey and vanilla palate with good balancing acidity.

Principe Corsini 2004 Cortevecchia Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 89 Here’s a deep ruby.Chianti Classico in the black fruit style, with aromas of black fruit, licorice, and spicy wood. The attack is round and lush with black fruit also on the palate. There’s good grip on the finish.

Querciabella 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($32) 91 Medium dark ruby blend of 95% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are hand-selected in the vineyard, then destemmed (but not crushed), and the Sangiovese is macerated 12 days. After full malolactic fermentation, the wine is put in 100% French barriques, 30% of which are new. The finished wine has aromas of dark cherry, vanilla, and brambly underbrush and a soft palate of high toned plum and raspberry fruit. This well structured wine finishes very long and flavorful with a final bittersweet note.

Principe Corsini 2005 Cortevecchia Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($35) 89 The blend of the Cortevecchia Riserva is the same as that of the regular Chianti Classico. The grapes are the second selection of fruit, after the Don Tommaso, and aged 16 months in French oak. The bouquet is red and black fruit with touches of graphite and cedar. In the mouth, there’s a luscious purity of high-toned dark cherry fruit with cedar and vanilla notes. Try with venison or duck.

Querciabella 2005 Camartina Tuscany ($100) 91 This medium dark ruby blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese is destemmed, fermented whole, and aged 80% new French oak barriques. It is made only in vintages of very high quality. The wine has a dusty nose of brambles, dark plum, and blackberry with a bacon note. Delicious bright cherry and cassis fruit flavors with notes of raspberry and vanilla erupt on the first sip. This benchmark IGT finishes with firm, ripe tannins.

Principe Corsini 2005 Le Corti Chianti Classico Tuscany ($21) 87 The 2005 Chianti Classico is also medium dark ruby in color. It reveals aromas of dried black cherry followed by a soft attack of red and black fruit flavors and a rather astringent dry finish.

Querciabella 2007 Mongana Tuscany ($20) 89 A blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot mostly aged in cement vats with a medium ruby color and a palate of bright cherry and red plum fruit. A fairly straightforward but very flavorful wine that’s meant to be drunk young. An excellent value!

Principe Corsini 2006 Le Corti Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 87 The entry level Chianti of Le Corti is medium dark ruby 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and Colorino aged 12 months in cement vats and offering a spicy, black cherry nose. It’s lush and full-flavored with uncomplicated cherry fruit. The finish is crisp with good tannic grip.

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Renzo Marinai - The Azienda Agricola San Martino a Cecione di Renzo Marinai is a small, 6 hectare vineyard located near Panzano where organic farming is practiced, including the planting of oats and fava beans between alternate rows of vines. Winemaker Giovanni Cappelli matures Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese separately in botti of 15-20 hectoliters. The wines are terroir-driven, provocative, layered and sweet.

Rocca delle Macìe is a large family winery established a little over 30 years ago by Italo Zingarelli. It possesses 200 hectares of vineyards across six estates within and outside of the Chianti Classico production zone. Its wines are widely distributed through an extensive distribution network both in Italy and abroad. Importer: Palm Bay International, Syosset, NY Rocca delle Macìe 2006 Chianti Classico Famiglia Zingarelli Tuscany ($16) 87 This is a medium ruby, easy drinking wine with raspberry and blackberry aromas and floral and spice notes. It shows high acidity and fresh fruit flavors, mainly raspberry with herbal nuances.

Renzo Marinai 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($28) 89 This is a dark ruby mix of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in barriques for six months and offering scents of tar, black cherry and licorice. There’s excellent depth of very sweet, dark fruit on the palate with uplifting red fruit accents. Shows a lovely, long finish of rich black cherry and dark chocolate.

Rocca delle Macìe 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli Tuscany ($25) 88 This riserva displays a medium ruby color and light Morello cherry and sandalwood on the nose. On the palate it offers pure cherry fruit flavors on with a nice long finish. Easy drinking and quite delicious.

Renzo Marinai 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($47) 90 This is a ruby opaque blend of 88% Sangiovese and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of black earth, tar, and roasted meat enveloping a core of sweet dark cherry. Black flavors of tar, loam, charred wood, minerals, coconut and underlying blackberry fruit dominate the palate. Finishes with notes of dark cassis and blueberry.

Rocca delle Macìe 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($19) 89 One of the better wines from this popular producer consisting of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot and 5% Caaniolo. It offers fresh aromas of cherry spice and has youthful fresh fruit flavors on a light-bodied palate. Overall, a nicely integrated wine with a persistent finish and enjoyable to drink.

Renzo Marinai 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 88 The 2003 Riserva shows sweet black cherry fruit on the nose. Consistent with the vintage, the palate is sweet and fruit forward, with flavors of ripe plum, earth and mushrooms. It’s not quite as deep and layered as later vintages.

Rocca delle Macìe 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva di Fizzano Tuscany ($37) 87 The opaque ruby, internationally styled Riserva di Fizzano is 85% Sangiovese Grosso, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot with a nose of spice, smoke, and dense black fruit. On the plate, it’s soft textured and rich with smoky black fruit flavors and prominent sweet oak notes. There are dry wood tannins on the finish.

Renzo Marinai 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($50) 92 The 2001 Riserva is a 90/10 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that’s ruby garnet in color with a brick rim. An exotic nose of roasted meat, earth, dark fruit, and truffles leads to a silky palate that is rich, balanced, and layered with flavors of earth, leather, dried plums and licorice. Finishes sweet with notes of earth, minerals, and tar. This Brunello-like wine is at its peak.

Rocca delle Macìe 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($26) 88 This is a dark ruby, somewhat astringent blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s white pepper, black fruit and a touch of mint on the nose and earthy, sweet black fruit on the palate. It finishes quite dry with nuances of chocolate. Altogether, a very nice wine.

Renzo Marinai 1999 Vin Santo Chianti Classico Tuscany ($50 375 ml) 89 This is a unique Vin Santo with flamboyant caramel aromas and not very sweet flavors of caramelized sugar. It finishes almost dry with tangy peach accents.

Rocca delle Macìe 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva di Fizzano Tuscany ($34) 90 This is medium dark ruby with a slight garnet rim and notes of earth and very ripe fruit on the nose. The attack is soft and velvety with complex flavors of leather, earth, dried fruit and espresso. There are lovely round, firm tannins on finish. Very nicely made! Rocca delle Macìe 2006 Chianti Classico Tenuta Sant'Alfonso Tuscany ($24) 89 Deep ruby with aromas of black earth, floral notes, and anise and a soft, velvet attack. This wine is very fresh and vibrant with black fruit and spice on the palate. Finishes with ripe, round tannins.



Rocca di Montegrossi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 89 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. Matured 12 months in Allier oak, it sports a medium light ruby color and aromas of bright red fruit with touches of cinnamon. The palate is of medium weight with pure bright red plum fruit, herbs and baking spice. The wine finishes long and sweet with high acidity and good grip. Importer: Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI and K&L Imports, Redwood City, CA

Santa Margherita 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 88 The Santa Margherita Chianti Classico is medium dark ruby and displays aromas of black cherry with a touch of wood spice. Soft on the attack, it boasts a flavorful dry palate of red and black fruit with cedar notes. Nicely balanced with some tartness on the finish. Importer: Terlato Wines Lake Bluff, IL Sensi 2005 Chianti Classico Passonero Tuscany ($25) 89 The 2005 Passonero is a showy wine that displays a dark ruby color with very ripe aromas of dark cherry fruit and earthy notes. The attack is round and robust and the palate, rich and concentrated. This is a full-flavored, complex wine, with juicy black fruit, toasty oak, and a big long-lasting finish. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

Rocca di Montegrossi 2004 Geremia IGT Tuscany ($45) 91 The Geremia is a modern international blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot and is matured 18 months in moderately toasted Allier barriques. Deep ruby purple, it offers a spicy nose of red and black fruit and toasty oak. It has a ripe, rich palate of concentrated fruit, charred oak and bitter chocolate that finishes with nice gripping tannins. Importer: Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI and K&L Imports, Redwood City, CA

Tenimenti Angelini 2004 Chianti Classico San Leonino Tuscany ($18) 87 This Chianti Classico from Tenimenti Angelini is sourced from their San Leonino estate in Castellina in Chianti. Dark ruby in color, it emits aromas of red fruit and sandalwood. Soft on the attack and light-bodied with red and black fruit on the palate. it is made for easy drinking. The wine's tannic grip on the finish will do well with food. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd. St. Helena, CA

Rocca di Montegrossi 2004 Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino Tuscany ($50) 91 The 2004 Vigneto San Marcellino is 100% Sangiovese, matured 18 months in Allier oak. Dark ruby in color it displays purity of dark red berry fruit with scents of cigar box and smoke. The palate is soft, silky and beautifully balanced offering flavors of black fruit and cocoa that is like sweet chocolate covered cherries. There is good overall acidity and persistence of fruit flavors on the finish. A superb wine. Importer: Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI and K&L Imports, Redwood City, CA

Tenimenti Angelini 2003 San Leonino Chianti Classico Tuscany ($35) 89 The more mature 2003 San Leonino is dark ruby garnet and reveals aromas of ripe red berry fruit and toasted oak. Following a soft attack, the palate shows pure black cherry fruit, good balance, persistent flavors, and tannic grip on the finish. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd. St. Helena, CA

Rodano 2001 Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($50) 90 Winemaker, Guilio Gambelli, crafts this lovely 100% Sangiovese wine, aging 60% of the wine in Slovenian bottes and 40% in French barriques, half of which are new. The Riserva Viacosta is produced only in exceptional vintages. This is a very nice, medium dark ruby wine with a nose of smoky oak and roasted meat with hints of wet leaf from 45 year old Castellina vines. There’s sweet dark red cherry with dark chocolate notes on the palate, and it finishes clean with good flavors and gripping tannins. Importer: Enotec Imports, Denver, CO

Tenuta di Nozzole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigneto La Forra Tuscany ($50) 88 The Vigneto La Forra is currently in a youthful stage of development as revealed in its opaque ruby color and purple rim. On the nose it reveals lovely blackberry, cassis, and violet aromas with toasted oak nuances. On the palate, its fruit is ripe, savory and concentrated with notes of leather and cedar. Its tannins are round and the finish, while somewhat austere, is long lasting and pleasant. Importer: Kobrand Corporation Purchase, NY

Rodano 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 87 The Chianti Classico exhibits a medium dark ruby color with a meat, toasty oak, and black and red fruit aromas. Soft on the attack, it offers a lightly fruited palate of black fruit and oak flavors with prominent tannins and a short finish. Enotec Imports Denver, CO

Tenuta di Nozzole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($30) 89 The bigger Tenuta di Nozzole Riserva is deep ruby with a garnet tinged rim and exhibits aromas of ripe, black cherry fruit with a touch of espresso. Soft and velvety on the attack, it offers rich black fruit on the palate with notes of espresso and balsamic. Its tannins are round and ripe with some grip on the finish. A lovely wine. Importer: Kobrand Corporation Purchase, NY

San Guisto a Rentennano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($33) 89 This high performing estate has produced an attractive modern Chianti Classico made from a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Caniolo grapes. Medium ruby in color it offers bright, fresh red berry fruit and cedar on the nose and soft and fruity mature red fruit, chocolate and spice on the palate. While not complex, the wine is well-rounded, easy to drink, and delicious. Importer: VinDivino , Chicago, Il

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Terrabianca 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Croce Tuscany ($32) 89 A medium ruby blend of 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo aged 15 months in Slovenian oak barrels with a reticent nose of dark cherry, pepper and ash. The medium weight and harmonious palate shows pure dark cherry fruit and a lovely, fruit-driven finish.

Riseccoli is a high performing family estate located in Greve that was founded by Romano Romanelli, a well-known Florentine artist. Its vineyards consist of 38 acres, half of which are of old vines Importer: Vias New York, NY Tenuta di Riseccoli 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($32) 90 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Aged for 12 months in cement vats and partially in French oak barriques, it exhibits an opaque ruby color with aromas of highly concentrated red and black fruit and violets. On the palate it offers ripe black fruit flavors with a touch of licorice and creosote. A big wine with firm tannins and a lingering finish that will improve with age.

Terrabianca 2006 Scassino Chianti Classico Tuscany ($28) 88 A medium light ruby, predominantly Sangiovese wine aged 8 months in Slovenian oak that shows fresh pure cherry fruit with raspberry notes that carries over to the light palate. Light and fruity enough to serve chilled on a hot summer day. Toscolo 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 The modern style Toscolo is dark ruby in color and offers fragrant aromas of black fruit, sweet oak and vanilla. On the palate it reveals more dark fruit which is nicely integrated with oak combined with a touch of tar and black pepper. Long lasting on the finish, it is a pleasure to drink. Importer: Empson USA Inc Alexandria, VA

Tenuta di Riseccoli 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($58) 92 The 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva is a richer and riper version of the Chianti Classico, consisting of the same blend but spends 15-18 months in two to three-year old barriques. Deep ruby to the core, it reveals ripe red fruit, lightly toasted oak and a minty note. It is soft and velvety in the mouth with ripe fruit flavors, round tannins, beautiful balance, and a long finish. A terrific wine!

Toscolo 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscay ($28) 87 A blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot, the Toscolo Riserva is aged in large oak casks for 12 months and 6 months in barrique. It displays a medium ruby color and a rustic nose of roasted meat with a touch of light cherry. Soft and medium weight on the palate, it offers light red cherry fruit and a nice long finish. Importer: Empson USA Inc., Alexandria, VA

Terrabianca. In the late 1980s, Roberto Guldener began his winemaking adventure at Terrabianca, producing the first vintage in 1988 from the existing vines. Today all the vineyards—about 14 hectares in Chianti Classico--have been replanted, and new vineyards have been established in the Maremma. His philosophy about wine is reflected in his natural winemaking techniques, including fermentation in outside tanks with no temperature control, a traditional but today uncommon practice in Chianti. Importer: Empson USA Inc Alexandria, VA

Valiano 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($22) 87 This medium dark ruby Chianti Classico exhibits muted dark fruit aromas with notes of chocolate and espresso. On the palate it offers a flavorful attack of ripe black fruit, cola, leather and earth. While slightly tannic, the wine is quite attractive. Importer: AV Brands Columbia, MD Valiano 2003 Chianti Classico Poggio Teo Tuscany ($28) 86 Medium dark ruby and earthy in character, the 2003 Chianti Classico Poggio Teo exhibits ripe plum and spice aromas. Traditional in style, it offers red and black fruit and slightly bitter earthy notes on the palate and round tannins on the finish. Importer: AV Brands Columbia, MD

Terrabianca 2005 Campaccio Tuscany ($46) 91 Campaccio is a medium ruby blend of 70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from Chianti Classico and the Maremma aged 12 months in French and American oak barriques. It has a medium ruby color with a penetrating nose of red and black fruit and spices and a suave palate of pure dark cherry, blackberry and smoke. Fresh from beginning to the firmly tannic finish.

Vèscine 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($22) 87 The Vescine Chianti Classico is a medium dark ruby blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Canaiolo. It offers aromas of black cherry fruit with touches of forest floor. Soft on the attack it reveals rather sweet and earthy black fruit on the palate with a rather tannic finish. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

Terrabianca 2004 Campaccio Riserva Tuscany ($75) 92 This dark ruby blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Sangiovese aged 24 months in French and American oak barriques has a very fresh bouquet of black and red fruit, vanilla, and raspberry perfume. Superbly balanced and concentrated on the palate with tonguecoating tannins and bitter chocolate on the finish.

Vèscine 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Lodolaio Tuscany ($30) 88 A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, and 10% Merlot, this medium ruby garnet Chianti emits aromas of perfumed rose petals and red berry fruit. Medium weight, the palate offers delicate red fruit flavors with good acidity and balance. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

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Villa Mangiacane 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($28) 88 Medium dark ruby, this stylish Chianti Classico displays high toned aromas of violet, plum, and a touch of herbs. International in style, it is full- bodied on the palate with well integrated dark fruit flavors and touches of vanilla and cocoa. It is also nicely structured and well balanced with a long lasting finish that will provide lots of pleasure. Importer: Palm Bay International Syosset, NY

Vignamaggio 2006 Chianti Classico Gherardino Tuscany ($23) 87 The dark ruby Chianti Classico Gherardino displays aromas of red and black fruit with a touch of cedar. On the palate it is very ripe and meaty with a round mouth feel and persistent finish. Importer: Bedford International Larchmont, NY Vignamaggio 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Monna Lisa Tuscany ($16) 85 The Monna Lisa is a traditionally styled, medium dark ruby with high toned aromas of violet, plum, balsamic and a touch of herbs. It’s full bodied on the palate with great balance and flavors of dark fruit with a touch of cocoa. Importer: Bedford International Larchmont, NY

Villa Mangiacane 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($38) 89 A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino, this medium dark ruby garnet Chianti Classico displays aromas of ripe black cherries, violets, and toasted oak. International in style, it is ripe, round and flavorful with a slightly spicy, hot and dry finish. Importer: Palm Bay International Syosset, NY

Villa Calcinaia 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 89 Medium ruby with a garnet rim, this lovely and somewhat earthy Chianti Classico produced by the Capponi family at Villa Calcinaia emits intriguing aromas of dried cherry, ash and leather. On the palate it offers very soft and lush dark fruit flavors, backed with good acidity and firm tannins. Overall, it is a well-balanced and delicious wine. Importer: The Marchetti Co. Cleveland Heights, Ohio Villa Calcinaia 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($33) 87 The riserva is a blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. It is opaque ruby with super ripe blackberry-like aromas and savory notes. On the mid-palate it shows concentrated black fruit with a touch of licorice and tea and a very dry long-lasting finish. Importer: The Marchetti Co. Cleveland Heights, Ohio Villa Cerna 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($24) 88 This Chianti Classico Riserva displays a deep ruby color with aromas of plum, violets, leather and earth. It is traditional in style with a rich and spicy palate combining black cherry, tobacco and cocoa. It has excellent acidity with rounded and slightly dry tannins. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, New York Villa di Geggiano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($26) 90 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a lovely blend of roughly 97% Sangiovese and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a brilliant dark ruby color and has a soft perfumed Morello cherry nose. On the palate it reveals more pure and ripe red fruit with lovely balance and a long, dry, tannic finish. Villa di Geggiano 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($32) 88 The Villa di Greggiano Chianti Classico is a blend of roughly 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark ruby in color, it emits a perfumed bouquet of dried flowers, herbs, and red and black fruit. It also reveals ripe dark fruit with a touch of vanilla on a light and slightly astringent palate. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Berkeley, California

5

MAP OF TUSCANY Map courtesy of Kobrand Corporation – www.kobrandwines.com.”

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WINE REPORTS Issue 1

California Petite Sirah (September 2005)

Issue 2

Red Table Wines of Portugal (January 2006)

Issue 3

Grenache Wines of Australia, California, France and Spain (May 2006)

Issue 4

Syrah: California, Washington Sate and Oregon Wines (September 2006)

Issue 5

Malbec: Argentina's Magnificent Malbec (December 2006)

Issue 6

The Wines of Southern Italy: From Quantity to Quality (March 2007)

Special Report

Red Wines of Portugal: The Douro Boys and Barca Velha (June 2007)

Issue 7

New Zealand's Exciting Pinot Noirs (July 2007)

Issue 8

The Wines of Ribera del Duero (September 2007)

Issue 9

Champagne (December 2007)

Issue 10

Unoaked Chardonnay: It More Than Wood (February 2008)

Issue 11

2005 Bordeaux Crus Bourgeois (April 2008)

Issue 12

California Petite Sirah II-Syrah Update: California and the Northwest-Selections from California and Washington State (June 2008)

Issue 13

The Wines of Rioja: Classical and New Wave (August 2008)

Special Report

Introduction to Sherry (October, 2008)

Issue 14

The World of Sparkling Wines and Champagne (December 2008)