THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS ABOARD M/V EVOLUTION JULY 8–17, 2016

Waved Albatross ©David Wolf

LEADER: DAVID E. WOLF GALAPAGOS NATURALIST GUIDES: BOLI SANCHEZ & CRISTINA RIVADENEIRA LIST COMPILED BY: DAVID E. WOLF VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW. VENTBIRD.COM

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS Aboard M/V Evolution July 8–17, 2016 By David E. Wolf Few destinations offer as rich and complete a natural history experience as the Galapagos Islands. The rugged beauty of these volcanic islands is breathtaking, the sheer abundance of wildlife is simply staggering, and photographic opportunities abound. But there is so much more to the Galapagos. Just the thought of walking in the footsteps of Darwin, on the very islands that shaped his theory of natural selection and had such a profound influence on the way scientists view the world today, is a humbling experience. Our July 2016 cruise was both a thought-provoking immersion into the natural world and a delightful vacation. At every opportunity we pondered the various forces that shaped the islands themselves and the wildlife that lives there. Along the way we had lots of laughs, fine food, and ample siesta time on a very comfortable ship, the M/V Evolution. Special thanks go to our outstanding naturalist/guides, Boli Sanchez and Cristina Rivadeneira, who eagerly shared their broad knowledge and experience with us, and to the staff of the ship, who took such good care of us.

The M/V Evolution at Tagus Cove © David Wolf

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

Our adventure began with an on-time flight to Baltra in the Galapagos, where we boarded “pangas” (Zodiacs) for the ship that would be our home for the next week. Our first impressions were of a barren arid landscape surrounded by aquamarine waters, but it wasn’t long before we eagerly spotted our first birds, the ubiquitous Blue-footed Boobies and Brown Noddies. And, as we pulled up to the M/V Evolution, we found Elliott’s Storm-Petrels pitter-pattering right behind the ship, delightful little birds that would be with us throughout the trip. Finally, after a lovely late lunch, the loading of provisions, and the requisite safety drill, we left the harbor, and our Galapagos explorations were underway. As we approached Daphne Major, a perfect tuff cone, seabirds appeared in numbers and our excitement level rose. Cruising close alongside the island produced Nazca Boobies nesting on the barren slopes, Galapagos Shearwaters streaming past, and elegant Swallow-tailed Gulls dotting the cliffs. We struggled to identify frigatebirds overhead until we rounded a bend and found them littering the bushes, several of the males blowing up their huge red air sacs in courtship display. Magnificent was the dominant species, and would be all week, but on the edge of the colony we finally confirmed several female Great, with hard-to-identify males attending them. Then, suddenly, a feeding frenzy of dozens of Blue-footed Boobies formed, the birds dramatically plunging into the clear waters below the cliffs, likely pursuing a large school of “sardines.” As we watched them, a Redbilled Tropicbird flew directly to the island from the sea, only to be knocked to the ground by a vicious trio of frigatebirds. It wisely Magnificent Frigatebird © Jan Stull disgorged its prey and flew off with ruffled feathers! In no time at all the sun was sinking low on the horizon, but just then a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins magically appeared to ride the bow of the ship, some leaping clear of the water. All of this happened in just our first few exciting hours of cruising, but certainly foretold the many great sights that we would enjoy for the next week. Welcome to the Galapagos! Our first morning aboard the ship found us off the north end of Isabela Island, the sunrise twinkling like neon lights on the dorsal fins of dolphins around the ship. Panga rides at Punta Vicente Roca introduced us to the Marine Iguana, certainly one of the strangest creatures of these islands, while numerous Pacific Green Turtles were watched at arm’s-length as they swam in the crystalline water. We spotted our first Galapagos Hawk, as it hunted iguanas along the shoreline, and found rare Galapagos Fur Seals nestled in the boulders. The snorkelers swam with a Flightless Cormorant, while those who opted for a second panga ride found their first Galapagos Penguins. The afternoon hike over the lava flow and beaches at Punta Espinosa Marine Iguana © David Wolf on Fernandina produced literally heaping piles of Marine Iguanas and our first Galapagos songbirds, a brilliant male Yellow Warbler around our feet and

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

two Small Ground-Finches working the wrack line. Here too, we skirted resting sea lions, found our first shorebirds and “Lava” Herons, watched a pair of comical Flightless Cormorants at their nest, and paused to photograph the clumps of Brachycereus cactus colonizing the lava on this very interesting hike. The next morning our first stop was Urvina Bay on Isabela, our first venture into the arid coastal scrub. The big orange Land Iguanas were the major attraction here, but for the first time there were also numerous “Darwin’s finches” to puzzle over. With care we identified both Small and Medium Ground-Finches (these two hybridize and can be quite variable and confusing) and Small TreeFinches. Best of all was a lone Large Ground-Finch cracking thick seed pods with its grotesque bill. Here too were an elusive Darkbilled Cuckoo, numerous Galapagos Mockingbirds, and a surprise female Galapagos Vermilion Flycatcher. This latter species has declined significantly in recent years and was most unexpected. Later that day, panga rides gave us numerous close-ups of penguins and cormorants, two of the most iconic birds of the islands. All of this was capped at sunset by a fabulous whale show as we cruised the Bolivar Channel. The captain positioned the ship beautifully, and we had great looks at Bryde’s Whales that repeatedly broke the surface, before a huge Blue Whale revealed its long back and tiny nub of a dorsal fin several times. These incredible first days set the pace for the rest of our cruise, as Large Ground-Finch © Jan Stull we visited one amazing site after another. Every island visited was different and offered its own unique mix of wildlife and scenery. A hike to the summit of Bartoleme clearly revealed the features of the incredible volcanic landscape of the islands, while panga cruises nearby produced penguins at close range, including a leucistic individual, and White-tipped Sharks in the shallows. A strange rippling in the sea further offshore proved to be a huge school of baitfish boiling to the surface to escape marine predators chasing them. Literally hundreds of shearwaters and noddies were attracted to this frenzy, and to sit amidst it was simply mind-boggling! At Bachas on Santa Cruz, just behind the fine white sand beach, we found Vegetarian and Common Cactus finches methodically feeding inside a thick bush, while a small lagoon harbored two gorgeous American Flamingos. On Rabida Island, the late afternoon light set the red beach aflame, while nearby a rare male Galapagos Vermilion Flycatcher glowed even more brightly. Our day-trip by bus on Santa Cruz was most successful. Here, in the moist and green highlands at Los Gemelos (pit craters, not sinkholes), we spotted three special finches, including a Woodpecker Finch working over the moss-draped branches of the Scalesia forest at close range. At Rancho Las Primicias we sorted through the swarms of all three species of ground-finches to our heart’s content, as we walked in awe amidst the famous Giant Tortoises. These immense prehistoric giants were largely oblivious to our presence, and because of the very dry conditions this year they were concentrated here in unusual numbers. That afternoon in Puerto Ayora found us strolling through the cactus-studded scrub at the Darwin Station, with Galapagos

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Giant Tortoise © David Wolf Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

Flycatchers at arm’s-length and the last of the nine finches found on this island sitting up for us to study. Souvenir shopping, cold drinks and ice cream treats, and the comical show at the town fish market, where pelicans, Lava Gulls, and sea lions shamelessly begged and frigatebirds dashed down to blatantly steal fish, rounded out the day. Almost last, but certainly not least, we visited beautiful Española, perhaps the most pristine and wildest island of all. Here we found wondrous sights every few yards along the rock-strewn path, from boobies and sea lions that we had to detour around to gulls and tropicbirds in nooks in the rocks, endemic Española Mockingbirds and Large Cactus Finches foraging at our feet, and towering spray crashing up through a blowhole at the scenic overlook. The undisputed highlight here, of course, was the Waved Albatross show. Almost all of the world’s population of this vulnerable species nests here, and we were privileged to observe many aspects of their breeding biology. Nazca Booby © Jan Stull Especially enchanting was the prolonged swaying, stomping, and bill-clattering dance of a courting pair that we watched at length, but we also saw endearing chicks of several sizes and observed the awkward take-offs and landings of these huge birds. It was hard to leave, as a remarkably tame pair of Galapagos Hawks sat on the monument at the landing to bid us farewell. We departed the M/V Evolution at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island, our heads swirling with wonderful memories of so many amazing things, but we weren’t quite done yet. A final birding excursion into the hills yielded one last endemic—the San Cristobal Mockingbird, great looks at several elusive Dark-billed Cuckoos, and some final studies of “Darwin’s finches” before it was time to head for town and the airport, our tour of the magnificent Galapagos Islands complete, but never to be forgotten. ITINERARY: July 8: The entire group gathers for dinner at the Hotel Rincon de Puembo. July 9: Flight from Quito to Baltra (via Guayaquil); transfer to the M/V Evolution for a late lunch; sailed at 4 p.m. for a late afternoon cruise along the shores of Daphne Major. July 10: Morning panga rides and snorkeling at Punta Vicente Roca on northern Isabela Island. Midday cruise in the Bolivar Channel and then afternoon hike at Punta Espinosa on Fernandina Island. July 11: Morning hike at Urvina Bay on Isabela. Midday navigation of the Bolivar Channel to Tagus Cove. Afternoon options were panga rides, snorkeling or a hike to the viewpoint. Late afternoon watching for whales as we cruised up the Bolivar Channel. July 12: Morning hike to the summit of Bartoleme Island and then the option of snorkeling or a panga ride. Same options for the afternoon, or a hike around the lava flow, as we visited Sullivan’s Bay off Santiago Island. July 13: After re-fueling in Baltra in the early morning we visited Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz, then sailed to Rabida, for panga rides, snorkeling and a late afternoon hike. July 14: All day excursion by bus on Santa Cruz, first visiting the moist highlands at Los Gemelos Pit Craters. Tortoises and lunch at Rancho Primicias before returning to Puerto Ayora, for the rest of the afternoon at the Darwin Research Station and around town. July 15: Morning hike at Punta Suarez on Española Island. Afternoon panga cruise around Gardner Islet and then time at Gardner Beach on Española.

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

July 16: 8:15 disembarkation from the M/V Evolution at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal Island, and then a birding walk in the transition zone above town at the Municipal Cemetery. Afternoon flight to Quito (via Guayaquil) and our final dinner, at the Rincon de Puembo. July 17: Departures for home or on-going travels. KEY: E = endemic species NE = near-endemic species es = endemic subspecies BIRDS: DUCKS, GEESE & WATERFOWL: ANATIDAE es White-cheeked Pintail (Anas bahamensis galapagensis) – the endemic subspecies of this beautiful duck was seen at close range at Bachas Beach and Rancho Promicias on Santa Cruz. FLAMINGOS: PHOENICOPTERIDAE American Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) – we were lucky to have two of these stunning birds at close range in the lagoon behind Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz. PENGUINS: SPHENISCIDAE

Galapagos Penguin © David Wolf E Galapagos Penguin (Spheniscus mendiculus) – this charismatic bird is found only in the cooler waters of the western islands, where we saw them closely at several sites on both Isabela and around

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

Bartolome and Sullivan’s Bay, including a leucistic individual seen several times in the latter area. It’s hard to believe that one can see penguins on the Equator! ALBATROSSES: DIOMEDEIDAE NE Waved Albatross (Phoebbastria irrorata) – one of the most iconic birds of the Galapagos, almost the entire population of these huge seabirds nests on Española. Here we were treated to their animated head-swaying and bill-clapping courtship dance at close range, a top highlight of the cruise, plus we watched takeoffs and landings at the “airport”. SHEARWATERS & PETRELS: PROCELLARIIDAE E Galapagos Petrel (Pterodroma phaeopygia) – this endangered endemic nests in the highlands of several islands, but comes and goes from the nesting areas only at night, so for us this species was strictly pelagic. We saw 1-7 individuals on 6 days, all of them solitary and generally over the deeper water crossings, with our one-day high count of 7 in the Bolivar Channel as we cruised from Urvina Bay to Tagus Cove. E Galapagos Shearwater (Puffinus subalaris) – seen daily, often by the hundreds. There are two “types”, light-winged” with extensive whitish underwings, and “dark-winged”, with a mostly dark underwing. The taxonomic significance of these two types is yet to be determined. Dark-winged birds were numerous around the Bolivar Channel, with a few noted elsewhere, while light-winged birds were widespread and much more common. Especially spectacular were the hundreds feeding around the frenzy of baitfish splattering the surface on the panga ride off Sullivan’s Bay, Santiago. STORM-PETRELS: HYDROBATIDAE

Elliot's Storm-Petrel © Jan Stull

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

es Elliot’s (White-vented) Storm-Petrel (Oceanites gracilis galapagoensis) – the common stormpetrel, seen daily inshore, offshore and often right behind the ship. An amazing fact is that the nesting grounds of this abundant species are still unknown! es Band-rumped (“Darwin’s”) Storm-Petrel (Oceanodroma [castro] bangsi) – although a fairly common breeder on the Galapagos, these birds travel to and from their nest sites at night and remain well offshore over deeper waters during the day. We identified at least a few in the Bolivar Channel on several days, but they were seen really well only offshore from Punta Suarez on Española, where several approached the ship quite closely. Band-rumped Storm-Petrel taxonomy is in a state of flux right now, and it is likely that numerous species are involved. The name “Darwin’s Storm-Petrel” has been proposed for the birds breeding on the Galapagos, but there seems to be two reproductively isolated populations here, one nesting in May-October (the garua/cool season) and the other November-April (the wet/warm season). The birds that we saw closely showed no wing molt, suggesting that they belong to the garua breeding population. es Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel (Oceanodroma tethys tethys) – not rare offshore in the deeper waters and 1-8 were identified on four days while cruising, especially in the Bolivar Channel, but very few were seen close to shore. TROPICBIRDS: PHAETHONTIDAE es Red-billed Tropicbird (Phaethon aethereus mesonauta) – at least 3 were seen our first afternoon as we cruised alongside Daphne Major, including one brutally knocked to the ground by a gang of frigatebirds, and another was spotted off Bachas Beach, but it was only at Punta Suarez on Española that we really got to enjoy this species often and well, including several that landed on the cliffs. FRIGATEBIRDS: FREGATIDAE es Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens magnificens) – a common bird, seen in numbers every day. This species feeds inshore and is much more widespread and numerous than the Great. es Great Frigatebird (Fregata minor ridgewayi) – seen well only on our first afternoon as we cruised along Daphne Major. Here we spotted several females sitting in the bushes, along with probable males (very hard to distinguish from the preceding), and several immatures overhead. The only other one positively identified was an immature as we anchored off Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. The species is more pelagic than the preceding and generally feeds further offshore. BOOBIES & GANNETS: SULIDAE Nazca Booby (Sula granti) – this attractive bird was seen almost daily, with the greatest numbers and closest birds at nesting sites on Daphne Major and Punta Suarez on Española. Many others were spotted at sea, as well as some roosting on rocky islets and cliffs. es Blue-footed Booby (Sula nebouxii excisa) – the most widespread booby in the Galapagos and the ones that feeds closest inshore. We saw them daily, often in good numbers, and were continually thrilled by their dramatic dives into the water. CORMORANTS: PHALACROCORACIDAE E Flightless Cormorant (Phalacrocorax harrisi) – this unique birds, one of the most iconic in the Galapagos, was watched at length on the northern and western shores of Isabela and at Punta Espinosa on Fernandina. Half-a-dozen or more nests, with eggs or chicks of varying sizes, were observed, as well as courting adults.

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Blue-footed Booby © Jan Stull

Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

PELICANS: PELECANIDAE es Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis urinator) – widespread and seen daily, though not in great numbers. Nesting birds were observed from panga rides at several sites, while boldly begging birds at the fish market in Puerto Ayora were especially entertaining. HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS: ARDEIDAE es Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias cognata) – singles seen on four days. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis) – seen only in the farmland inland from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz. es Striated Heron (Butorides striatus sundevalli) – from 1-4 were seen on most days, often at close range. All appeared to be of the dark endemic subspecies sundevalli, formerly split as the “Lava” Heron, though some may have been intergrades with the continental subspecies. es Yellow-crowned Night-Heron (Nyctanassa violacea pauper) – seen only on our final two days, at least three around Punta Suarez on Española and several immatures in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES: ACCIPITRIDAE E Galapagos Hawk (Buteo galapagoensis) – singles were seen at Punta Vicente Roca and Urvina Bay on Isabela, and at Punta Espinosa on Fernandina, but they were a frequent sight only at Punta Suarez and Gardner Beach on Española. RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS: RALLIDAE Common Gallinule (Gallinula galeata) – three or more were seen in the dry meadows at Rancho Promicias on Santa Cruz. The extremely dry conditions hurt us with the rails and we failed to even hear the Galapagos Rail and Paint-billed Crake.

Galapagos Hawks © Jan Stull

STILTS & AVOCETS: RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) – one over the lagoon behind Bachas Beach. OYSTERCATCHERS: HAEMATOPODIDAE es American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus galapagensis) – fairly widespread and common, and seen on five days, at various locations. They were most numerous around Bartolome and Sullivan’s Bay, while pairs on the beaches at Bachas and Gardner allowed remarkably close approaches. PLOVERS & LAPWINGS: CHARADRIIDAE Semipalmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus) – singles at Bachas Beach, Rabida and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. This is a Nearctic migrant from North America. SANDPIPERS & ALLIES: SCOLOPACIDAE Wandering Tattler (Tringa incana) – singles seen on the wave-washed rocks at Punta Espinosa and Punta Suarez. Another migrant from North America, it breeds along gravelly tundra streams in Alaska and winters along much of the Pacific coast. Many shorebirds do not breed in their first year of life and so linger at wintering sites through the northern summer. Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) – another northern migrant, seen at Punta Espinosa and Bachas Beach. All were non-breeding immatures (with pink-based bills and molting primaries) spending the summer on the wintering grounds. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) – the most widespread and numerous summering Arctic shorebird and 1-12 were noted on five days. Sanderling (Calidris alba) – a single at Bachas Beach was the only one seen.

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS: LARIDAE NE Swallow-tailed Gull (Creagrus furcatus) – an especially beautiful gull that breeds only in the Galapagos, but spreads out over the Humboldt Current during the non-breeding season. It is the only gull that feeds only at night, when they hunt squid and fish that rise to the surface in the darkness. They were first seen at Daphne Major, when so much was happening, but we did not get to really enjoy them until we reached Punta Suarez and Gardner Islet at Española, where there were numerous pairs tucked into the cliffs. A few others were noted at sea at dawn, as they returned to the islands from their feeding grounds. E Lava Gull (Leucophaeus fuliginosa) – said Swallow-tailed Gull © David Wolf to be the world’s rarest gull, we saw 1-10 on five days. A pair even joined us for lunch one day, as they sat on a panga behind the ship while we ate. Most numerous at Puerto Ayora, when they were begging shamelessly at the fish market. es Brown (Common) Noddy (Anous stolidus galapagensis) – one of the most typical birds of the Galapagos and seen daily, in numbers, both at sea and on the rocky cliffs and caves where they nest and roost just above the high-tide line. PIGEONS & DOVES: COLUMBIDAE E Galapagos Dove (Zenaida galapagoensis) – this beautiful and very distinctive endemic dove was seen in small numbers on five days, with especially good looks at Punta Espinosa and Rabida. CUCKOOS: CUCULIDAE Dark-billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus melacoryphus) – we recorded this uncommon and rather furtive bird on three days, in the thick brush at Urvina Bay on Isabela, at Baltra while re-fueling, and several on the walk downhill from the cemetery on San Cristobal. Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani) – introduced to the islands by the ranchers – they supposedly eat the ticks on the cattle-- we saw numbers of them on Isabela, Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. They are very omnivorous and may be responsible for the decline of some of the finches and other passerines, since they are known to eat nestlings and eggs. TYRANT FLYCATCHERS: TYRANNIDAE E Galapagos Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus [rubinus] nanus) – We were very lucky to find this rapidly declining species twice, the first a female-plumaged bird seen well and photographed at Urvina Bay on Isabela and then a wonderful pair, the male absolutely glowing, behind the small lagoon on Rabida, where Boli and Cristina had seen them in the previous month. This form nanus has been proposed as a species separate from mainland birds (and from the extinct San Cristobal form dubius) and may soon be accepted as such. I don’t have an “official” English name. E Galapagos Flycatcher (Myiarchus magnirostris) – these confiding birds were seen in small numbers on five days. They were most frequent in the moist highlands of Santa Cruz, but Galapagos Vermilion Flycatcher © Jan Stull Victor Emanuel Nature Tours

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

others were seen in the very sparse terrain of the arid zone and the somewhat lusher littoral and transitional zones. MOCKINGBIRDS & THRASHERS: MIMIDAE E Galapagos Mockingbird (Mimus parvulus) – the most widespread of the mockingbirds, seen on six days, on five islands (Fernandina, Isabela, Bartolome, Rabida and Santa Cruz). E Española (Hood) Mockingbird (Mimus macdonaldi) – this interesting bird is endemic to Española and nearby islets, where we saw them often at Punta Suarez and Gardner Beach. They are especially inquisitive and confiding, checking out any potential source of food or liquid, including sea lions, humans, seabirds, and rocks and cliffs exposed by the tide. E San Cristobal Mockingbird (Mimus Española Mockingbird © David Wolf melanotis) – we were lucky to readily find this San Cristobal endemic several times during our few hours afield on this island. Pairs at the cemetery and around the bus at the end of our downhill walk provided especially good looks. NEW WORLD WARBLERS: PARULIDAE es Yellow Warbler (Setophaga petechia aureola) – seen daily and in every imaginable habitat, often foraging right at our feet. With no other warbler species on the islands, and very few other passerines, these beautiful birds seem to fill multiple niches. The Galapagos subspecies is part of the “Mangrove Warbler” group, which are non-migratory and found primarily in mangroves and other coastal habitats. TANAGERS & ALLIES: THRAUPIDAE E Green Warbler-Finch (Certhidea olivacea) – what was formerly the Warbler Finch has now been split into two species. This one is found in the humid zone of the larger western islands, where we saw quite a number of them in the moss-draped Scalesia forest at Los Gemelos Pit Craters on Santa Cruz. E Gray Warbler-Finch (Certhidea fusca) – the other half of the Warbler Finch split, this species is found primarily in the arid parts of the smaller eastern islands. We saw them commonly on Española (C. f. cinerascens) and San Cristobal (C. f. luteola). The latter birds are somewhat intermediate, occupying both arid and humid zones, and of a somewhat more greenish coloration with an orange wash on the throat of the males. E Vegetarian Finch (Platyspiza crassirostris) – this scarce species was encountered twice on Santa Cruz, the first feeding inside a dense bush at Bachas Beach and the second in the open atop the coastal Gray Warbler-Finch © Jan Stull scrub at the Darwin Station. E Woodpecker Finch (Camarhynchus pallidus) – this scarce finch was also seen twice on Santa Cruz, the first at close range as it crept around in the moss-draped trees at Los Gemelos Pit Craters and the second later that morning at Rancho Promicias, where it just sat still and preened for us.

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016

E Large Tree-Finch (Camarhynchus psittacula) – we saw two singles of this uncommon species of the humid highlands in the forest at Los Gemelos Pit Craters, both immatures. One was studied at length as it fed on the sizable seeds of the Tournefortia bushes in the understory. E Small Tree-Finch (Camarhynchus parvulus) – most common in the humid highlands of Santa Cruz at Los Gemelos, where we had good looks at all possible plumages, but smaller numbers were also seen in the arid and transitional zones at Urvina Bay, Rabida and San Cristobal. E Small Ground-Finch (Geospiza fuliginosa) - this was the first “Darwin’s finch” seen and they proved to be ubiquitous. We found them almost daily and at most locations, giving us many opportunities to study their rather variable bills – and conclude that we were looking at “just another Small Ground”. They were especially common in the settled and disturbed lowlands, taking the place of House Sparrow in the towns and coming right onto the lunch tables at Rancho Promicias. It is likely that some of the “largebilled small” and “small-billed medium” birds seen were hybrids with the Medium Ground-Finch. E Large Ground-Finch (Geospiza magnirostris) – we had good luck with this generally uncommon and solitary species with an almost grotesque parrot-like beak. Our first was studied at super-close range inside the arid brush at Urvina Bay on Isabela. We also saw one on Rabida and then found a number of them amidst the hordes of ground-finches at Rancho Promicias on Santa Cruz. E Common Cactus-Finch (Geospiza scandens) – this distinctive species was found three times, a pair in a bush behind Bachas Beach, a male from the panga cruise at Rabida, and at least two males in the thick cactus-studded brush at the Darwing Station on Santa Cruz. E Medium Ground-Finch (Geospiza fortis) – a common species noted on four days, often in fairly good numbers and frequently in flocks. Much of the confusion about finch identification in the Galapagos involves this species. Not only are their bills highly variable, but they also seem to hybridize with other species, especially the Small Ground. E Large Cactus-Finch (Geospiza conirostris conirostris) – this form occurs only on Española where there are few other finches. We found it readily and often on our hike around Punta Suarez. With no Large Ground-Finches present to compete for resources these birds have developed massive bills. Other races of this “species” found on the outer northern islands of Genovesa, Darwin and Wolf may well be split as a species separate from this one in the near-future. MAMMALS: House Mouse (Mus musculus) – one on the downhill walk on San Cristobal our last morning. Galapagos Fur Seal (Arctocephalus galapagoensis) - much rarer and more localized than the sea lion, this species prefers cool rocky coastlines. We saw them only at Punta Vicente Roca on Isabela. Galapagos Sea Lion (Zalophus californianus wollebacki) - these delightful animals were a constant presence during our cruise, both onshore and off. Bryde’s (Tropical) Whale (Balaenoptera edeni) – a small group feeding actively in the Bolivar Channel in the late afternoon, surfacing close to the ship quite a few times. Blue Whale (Balaenoptera musculus) – repeated looks at one spouting and surfacing in the Bolivar Channel. It’s extremely long back gave us an idea of its immense size, but the dorsal fin was ridiculously small and stubby. Sperm Whale (Physeter microcephalus) – a distant animal seen by a few, amidst the whales feeding in the Bolivar Channel in the late afternoon. Best identified by its spout, with the body shape barely noted by some of us as it dove deeply. Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncates) – playful groups of up to 12 animals were seen on three days, including riding the bow. REPTILES: E Galapagos Giant Tortoise (Geochelone nigra) – these massive creatures were everywhere at Rancho Promicias on Santa Cruz, where the drought had evidently concentrated them. Current taxonomy of this animal is in flux, but we saw both “forms” of hindshell, which seem to represent different species.

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es Pacific Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas) - it was amazing to see these animals almost every day, sometimes in numbers. The snorkelers even got to swim with them! E San Cristobal Lava Lizard (Tropidurus bivattatus) E Española Lava Lizard (Tropidurus delanonus) E Galapagos Lava Lizard (Microlophus albemarlensis) E Galapagos Land Iguana (Conolophus subcristatus) E Marine Iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus) BUTTERFLIES: Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae marcellina) - singles seen twice, a male at Bachas Beach and a female at Rancho Promicias, both on Santa Cruz. E Galapagos Blue (Leptotes parrhasioides) – around Pueto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal, perhaps seen only by David. Queen (Danaus gillippus thersippus) – one at Urvina Bay on Isabela. And a wealth of fish and other marine creatures

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Galapagos Islands Cruise, July 2016