study guide: insulation Learning Objectives: • The features and benefits of the products you sell. • How to answer your customers’ product-related questions. • How to help your customer choose the right products. • How to increase transaction sizes by learning more about add-on sales and upselling techniques.

Module 1: Insulation Product Knowledge: Insulation R-Values • Insulation is rated by its R-value. R refers to resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the effectiveness of the insulation. The R-value depends on the type of material, its thickness and density. • When helping customers decide which R-value to buy, check charts that show recommended R-values for different areas of the country and different types of fuel used for heating. Roll Insulation • Roll insulation, also known as blanket insulation, may be made of fibreglass, mineral wool, plastic fibres or natural fibres. Fibreglass is the most common type. • This type of insulation is usually installed between open ceiling joists and wall studs. • Roll insulation comes in continuous rolls that vary in width and thickness. Different sizes are appropriate for different spaces in the house. • There are two main types of roll insulation. Faced rolls have a vapour barrier/retarder that should be installed with the vapour barrier/retarder toward the interior or heated area. • Unfaced rolls are slightly wider to provide a friction fit between framing members. • Rolled insulation is not a common product for the majority of Canadian manufacturers. The reason for this is that it is cumbersome to package and difficult to install. Batt Insulation • Batt insulation, also known as blanket insulation, is made of fibreglass, mineral wool, plastic fibres or natural fibres. Fibreglass is the most common type. • It is similar to roll insulation, but best used where there are many cross beams or other obstructions. • Advise customers that for best results, insulation should not be compressed to fit in a wall. Compressing the insulation will reduce its R value. • Batt insulation is available in R values ranging from R-12 to R-40. • Batt thicknesses range from 3-1/2” to 11”.

NOTE: Always consult your local and provincial codes

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Loose-Fill • Loose-fill insulation may be made of cellulose, fibreglass or mineral wool. • The cellulose type is made from waste paper that has been treated to be fire retardant. It is also less likely to cause skin irritation. • Loose fill is used primarily in unfinished attics, but may also be used in walls in retrofit installations. • May be blown-in (installed with a blowing machine) or poured-in place (poured directly from the bag). Rigid Insulation • Rigid insulation usually comes in board form in a variety of sizes ranging from 0.5” to 4” thick and 2’ x 8’ to 4’ x 10’ sheets. • It has the highest R-value per inch of any common type of insulation. • This type of insulation can be used on the interior or exterior of the house or on basement walls. It can also be used to cover framing members rather than fitting between them. There are several types of rigid insulation. • Moulded or expanded polystyrene. This type is inexpensive, but not moisture- or fire-resistant. Use as above-grade exterior sheathing, interior basement wall insulation, suspended ceiling panels and as siding backerboard. • Extruded polystyrene. This type is also known as blue board or pink board. It is not fire-resistant, but has more moisture resistance than bead board. Use for exterior foundation perimeters, wall sheathing and interior applications. • Polyisocyanurate. It is both fire- and moisture-resistant. It is available foil-faced for exterior wall sheathing, vinyl-faced as a finish covering for beam ceilings, or impregnated with asphalt for hot-mopped roof applications. It may be rigid or semi-rigid. • Semi-rigid fibreglass panels. These can be used below grade where the fibreglass fibres allow water to drain freely down the surface of the panel to the drainage system around the footings. Reflective Foil Insulation • Reflective foil insulation comes in long rolls of various widths that can be cut to fit any space. • It is often used on unfinished walls, ceilings and floors. • One type is made of foil and polyethylene to trap air between the sheets of foil, generally using bubble pack. • A second type expands when installed between stud spaces. The resistance to heat flow depends on the heat flow direction. This type of insulation is most effective in reducing downward heat flow. • When a single reflective surface is used alone and faces an open space such as an attic, it is called a radiant barrier. Sprayed Foam Insulation • Sprayed foam insulation comes in a liquid spray form that quickly foams and hardens. • It is used for enclosed existing wall or open new wall cavities and attic floors. Also used for sealing around windows, doors and construction seams. • This type of insulation may have a higher insulating value than blown-in materials, but is more expensive and still subject to shrinking. • It should be covered with a vapour barrier/retarder and is usually installed professionally.

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Housewrap • Housewrap is also known as an air infiltration barrier. • Unlike vapour barrier/retarders, which prevent vapour from passing through, housewraps allow water vapour to pass so moisture inside the wall can get out. • It should be installed on the outside of the structure. The inside of the structure should have a vapour barrier/retarder. • The purpose is to stop liquid water (such as wind-driven rain) from passing through and slows down air infiltration through the wall. • It should not be used in conjunction with a moisture barrier on an outside wall, as that would only cause moisture to become trapped. Vapour Barrier/Retarder • A vapour barrier/retarder is a mechanical or chemical film that reduces the rate at which moisture passes through it. • Polyethylene film is an example of a mechanical vapour barrier/retarder. • Some paints and sealers act as a chemical vapour barrier/retarder. • Some insulation has a built-in vapour barrier/retarder. Plumbing Insulation • Some types of insulation are for a specific application. Here are some of the common types of insulation used for the plumbing system of the house. Water Heater Blanket • Wraps around the water heater to reduce the amount of time a water heater needs to heat water. • Do not wrap the blanket around the temperature relief valve or the controller. Also, do not wrap the top of a gas water heater, as the blanket could catch fire from the exhaust heat. For electric water heaters, do not cover the heating-element access panels. • Sized according to the water heater size. Pipe Wrap • For insulating water pipes from freezing in the winter. It also helps control heat loss when pipes carry hot water and controls condensation and dripping. • Comes in batt form, which can be wrapped around the pipe. Tube Pipe Insulation • Also insulates water pipes. Is preformed to fit around the pipe. • Some use self-adhesive tape to secure them around the pipe. • Sized according to the size of pipe it will fit, typically ½” or ¾”. • Also available in pre-formed tees or elbows. Outdoor Faucet Cover • Fits over an outdoor faucet or sillcock to protect it from freezing and damage. • Loop the cord around the faucet handle, then pull to lock the cover against the side of the house.

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Taking it to the Floor: Frequently Asked Questions Q: Why is a vapour barrier/retarder important? A: A vapour barrier/retarder prevents condensation, which is when warm air from the inside of the house meets the cold air on the exterior of the house during the winter. The vapour barrier/retarder prevents condensation that results from those differing temperatures. Otherwise, condensation builds up in the wall cavity and causes wood to rot and allows mould and mildew to grow over time. A vapour barrier/retarder should only be used on the inside of the house. It is different from housewrap, which allows moisture that may be inside the wall cavity to escape. It should be used on the outside of the house. Q: I already have some loose-fill insulation in my attic. How do I know if I need more? A: Generally, if you have less than 9” of insulation on the attic floor, it needs more. Q: Can insulation reduce sound? A: Yes. Insulation can be a sound barrier for a quieter interior of the home. It can be used to prevent sound transmission through exterior and interior walls. Check the labeling on the product, as some manufacturers have products with better sound insulation qualities. Q: How do I attach insulation between floor joists? A: Insulation must be installed with the vapour barrier/retarder facing up. This means the paper flanges cannot be used. Use insulation supports (thin metal rods) to support the insulation. You can also attach a string in a lace pattern across the bottom of the joists. Upselling Skills • Fibreglass in high-performance batts and blankets is packed more densely than in standard insulation. Greater density gives a higher R-value than the same overall thickness in standard insulation. • Customers who are worried about the skin and eye irritation caused by some types of insulation may want to consider encapsulated insulation. This type is easier to handle as it reduces dust and other irritants associated with insulation. While the insulation is enclosed, the plastic casing still allows the insulation to breathe and prevent condensation buildup.

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Add-On Sales • There are a few tools customers will need when installing insulation. • Recommend a tape measure and a utility knife for measuring and cutting lengths of insulation. • Those installing insulation in an attic or crawlspace may want a portable light. They may also want knee pads to make it easier to crawl around in tight places. • Suggest respiratory protection, goggles and cotton gloves, as some types of insulation can irritate the skin. • Anyone installing roll insulation or a vapour barrier/retarder will need a staple gun for fastening to framing members of the house. • Remind customers that they should use tape to mend any tears in the vapour barrier/retarder that might occur during installation. • Those buying rigid foam insulation will want ring-shank nails with a plastic cap for securing it. • Also don’t forget to mention all of the other items customers can use to insulate and weatherproof their homes, such as weather stripping products and caulk.

Module 2: Ventilation Product Knowledge: Ridge Vent • A ridge vent is a type of exhaust vent that replaces the ridge of the roof. • When used with intake vents, these provide a continuous circulation of air. • It helps keep the attic cool, reduces air conditioning costs and helps prevent ice dams. • Typical widths are 9” and 12”. • The shingle-over ridge vent type incorporates shingles that match the roof and are nailed over the vent. • Pre-drilled holes make installation easy. • Most types feature baffles because ridge vents without baffles can allow wind and moisture to enter the attic. Gable Vent • A gable vent is a type of exhaust vent that provides cross ventilation in the upper portion of the attic. • It features open louvered joints and built-in screens to keep out bugs and birds. • Gable vents may be installed before or after the siding and comes in a variety of shapes, including octagon, pentagon, round, square, half-round or rectangular. Roof Louver • A roof louver is a type of exhaust vent used for bathroom fan exhausts, kitchen duct outlets and attic ventilation. • It is typically made of aluminum or plastic. • One type, the wall louver, has louvered vanes and can be flush or recessed mounted. • Another type, the midget louver, helps contain moisture in sidewall construction or other areas.

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Soffit Vent • A soffit vent is a type of intake vent that is installed on the soffit or eave of the roof. • It helps balance the flow of air into the attic from the ridge vent. • It is typically made of aluminum or PVC. • The reversible type of soffit vent can be flush or recessed mounted. • Another type is the continuous soffit vent that runs the entire length of the eave. It is typically 2” or 4” wide and 8’ long. Foundation Vent • A foundation vent is used to exhaust basements and crawl spaces. • It may be constructed of steel, aluminum or plastic. • It can be used with brick, block or frame construction. Turbine Ventilator • A turbine vent mounts on the roof. It turns as the wind blows and enhances airflow as it sucks air out of the attic. • This type of vent is more effective than roof line or gable vents, but not as efficient as a ridge vent. • Its effectiveness depends on whether or not the wind is blowing, but it is designed to spin with the slightest breeze. Fan-Driven Ventilator • A fan-driven ventilator can be mounted on the roof or attic and pulls the most air of any ventilator system. • It is controlled by a manual switch, thermostat and/or humidistat. • One drawback is that it is electric powered, so it uses some of the energy it’s designed to save.

Taking it to the Floor: Frequently Asked Questions Q: Why do I need vents in my attic? A: Venting protects against moisture buildup in the attic and framing materials and helps keep the home cooler. In the summer, a tremendous amount of heat can build up in the attic, which can make the air conditioning system work much harder than it needs to. Venting keeps the attic cooler because it allows that hot air a place to escape. In the winter, vapour occurs when the warm air inside the house meets the cool air outside and condenses into water droplets. Ventilation keeps this moisture from rotting insulation and framing materials. Q: Why do I need both soffit vents and a ridge vent? A: A properly balanced vent system consists of two types of vents. Intake vents are placed along the soffit to allow fresh air into the attic. Exhaust vents are installed in the upper third of the roof to allow attic air to escape. Or, the exhaust vent may be a ridge vent. In fact, most builders agree that a ridge vent system is the most effective as well as the most cost-effective. With a properly vented system, the air in the attic should completely change every six minutes. Q: Do I have enough vents in my attic? A: You should have one square foot of vent area for every 150 sq. ft. of attic floor space. The vent manufacturer will list the vent area on the package as the FVA (free vent area). The vent area must also be split between high and low vents. If a vapour barrier/retarder is present, then the requirement changes to one square foot for every 300 sq. ft. Shingle manufacturers require that attics have adequate ventilation; otherwise their product warranty may be voided. 6

Q: How can I keep insulation from spilling onto the soffit vent? A: Use a baffle in each rafter cavity that contains a soffit vent. These are called rafter vents and are used to keep insulation from covering up soffit vents. You should install them between rafter beams at the point where the rafters intersect the ceiling joists. Use staples to attach them to the underside of the roof decking. Add-On Sales • Here are some of the common tools customers will need before installing a vent. Remind customers to gather them before they start so the project will so smoothly. • Customers will need a tape measure, chalk line and carpenter’s pencil for marking the location of the cut. • Depending on the type of vent they are installing, customers will need a saber saw, circular saw or drill for cutting an opening for the vent. • After cutting the opening, customers may need a pry bar for removing framing material where the vent will sit. • Make sure customers have enough of the appropriate nails and a hammer for attaching the vent. • Anyone installing a vent on the roof may need a utility knife for trimming asphalt shingles. • Recommend the appropriate roof cement or caulk for sealing around the vent after installation. • Ask if the customer needs gloves or eye protection for the project.

Module 3: Weather Stripping Product Knowledge: Door Shoe • A door shoe is used to seal the space beneath the door. • It attaches to the bottom of the door and may be made of extruded aluminum and vinyl. • A shoe is used primarily in conjunction with a smooth-top aluminum threshold to form a proper seal. • It is more durable and provides a better weather seal than a door sweep. Door Sweep • A door sweep seals the bottom of the door to prevent drafts, water, noise, light and insects. • It attaches to the lower part of the door and is easy to install. It goes on the bottom of the interior of an interior-swinging door, or on the exterior of an exterior swinging door. • One type is an aluminum extrusion with a rain-drip flange to prevent the flow of water off a door from collecting on a threshold and flowing under a door. • Another type has an adhesive backing that makes it easy to install. Felt • Felt is used for weather proofing around a door or window and is a good choice when appearance is no concern. • Felt installs by gluing, nailing or stapling to the frame or moulding around doors so the door will close snugly and quietly against it. • It is available in a variety of widths, thicknesses and quality. • Felt is inexpensive, but also has the shortest life. Recommend reinforced felt weather strip, which is sturdier and designed to last longer. 7

Adhesive-Backed Weather Stripping • Adhesive-backed weather stripping is used at the top and bottom of window sash, door frames, attic hatches and inoperable windows. • It installs by pressing into position and sticking permanently, so it requires no nails or tools. • Several types are available. One type, pressure-sensitive sponge rubber tape, is suited for larger problem areas. • Another type, pressure-sensitive vinyl foam or felt, is for average sealing. • Closed-cell PVC foam compresses to fill irregular gaps and can be used indoors. • Open-cell foam is for inside use only. • High-density foam is extremely durable and long lasting. V-Type Weather Stripping • V-type weather stripping, also known as a tension seal, is a V-shaped piece of PVC or metal (usually copper, bronze, aluminum or stainless steel). • It is used inside the track of a double-hung or sliding window or at the top and sides of a door. • Spring-metal tension strips are more difficult to install than adhesive-backed tension strips made of vinyl, but are the best, permanent type. Vinyl Gasket • Vinyl gasket can be used in places with warping or irregularities, typically around a doorjamb or a window stop. • It also cushions as it seals. • Several types are available. One type consists of vinyl or sponge rubber tubes with a flange. The flange is tacked into place and the door or window presses against it to form a seal. Or, it may have a flange that is pressed into an existing groove in the doorjamb. • Another type is a tubular gasket attached to a metal strip that resembles reinforced tubular vinyl. Foam Sealant • Foam sealant is used for sealing irregular gaps around the home, such as plumbing feed-thrus, electrical outlets and vents. • It installs similar to foam insulation, but comes in an aerosol can and is best for do-it-yourselfers. • After curing, it can be trimmed, sanded and painted. • During initial installation, it only fills the area about 33% and then expands to fill and seal the rest of the area. • There are different formulations available for different applications. Caulking Cord • A caulking cord is used to temporarily fill large gaps around windows. • It consists of soft, rope-like strands of weather strip with the consistency of moulding clay. • It is easy to apply by hand and remains pliable so it can be removed when the weather warms. • Caulking cord is paintable and will not harden or dry out.

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Taking it to the Floor: Frequently Asked Questions Q: How do I insulate the top and side of my garage door? A: Aluminum and vinyl weather stripping is available for this. There is also a weather strip made specifically for garage door bottoms. Q: What is the best type of weather stripping to use? A: It depends on what you want to seal. Make sure the type you choose can withstand the friction, weather, temperature changes and wear and tear of the location. If it is intended to seal a door or window, make sure it will seal it well while still allowing it to open freely. Q: Where should I look for air leaks around the house? A: Look around door and window frames, electrical and gas service outlets, outdoor water faucets, air conditioners, vents and fans and where dryer vents pass through walls. Q: How do I get foam insulation off my hands? A: Before it cures, use an acetone or fingernail polish remover. If the foam cures, a solvent won’t do any good. The insulation won’t harm your skin and will fall off in a couple of days. Or, you can try a pumice soap and warm water. However, always read caution statements on the back of the can and use gloves to avoid contact with skin. Q: Where would I use V-type weather strip? A: This is a good place to use where appearance is important, as it is practically invisible. When the door is closed, the open ends of the V-shape close together, with one end of the V touching the door and the other adhered to the door. If you have an older home, use the bronze type for an antique appearance. Q: Can I use expanding foam to insulate walls? A: We don’t recommend it. Expanding foam products are created to fill small cracks and voids and require ventilation to cure. Larger gaps may require special techniques to cure properly. Also, you shouldn’t use expanding foam behind tub surrounds. Q: How do I insulate around the air conditioner? A: There is a special type of air conditioner weather strip. It consists of a rectangular polyfoam that press-fits between the top frame or lower sash and upper pane. It seals off the air spaces between the window and the air conditioner.  Add-On Sales • Installing weather stripping is an easy do-it-yourself project, so make sure customers have all the tools they need before they start. • Recommend a hacksaw or tin snips for cutting a door shoe, sweep or V-type weather stripping. • Customers will need a utility knife for cutting felt and foam types of weather stripping. • Suggest a measuring tape and pencil for determining the appropriate size weather stripping needed for a project. • Recommend customers use gloves and eye protection when using foam sealant. • Finally, remind customers tackling a weather proofing project to check around windows and doors to see if they need any caulk. You can learn more about the different types of caulk in the Paint and Decorating chapter of NRHA’s Basic Training Course in Hardware Retailing.

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