hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Hairstyling
1st step: consultation, product education, maintenance
Natural partcomb hair straight back, push forward w/palm & separate hair where it naturally parts
Finger waving base of all hairstyles, shapes & directs hair into S formation using comb, lotion, fingers
Pinching or pushing ridges into waves w/fingers forces splits
Waving lotion (liquid hair gel) makes hair pliable & keeps it in place Made from karaya gum from trees in Africa & India Apply to damp hair, one side at a time Harmless, doesn’t flake when dry Don't use excessive amounts
Forming finger waves pg. 307 Find natural part, apply waving lotion Finger waves w/side part begin on heavy side
Horizontal finger waves sideways & parallel around head Vertical finger waves ridges & waves run up & down
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Pin curls 2.
Parts of a Curl • Base stationary foundation attached to scalp • Stem between base & arc, gives direction & movement (mobility) • Circle forms complete circle, gives width & strength to wave
Shaping section of hair molded in circular movement prepares for formation of pin curls Pin curls in a shaping begin at open end Shapings are used in place of a base for a pin curl.
Mobility of Curls • Nostem curl on base, tight, firm, long lasting curl, minimum mobility • Halfstem curl half on, half off base, medium mobility gives good control • Fullstem curl completely off base, greatest mobility & strong direction
Open center curls uniform curls, smooth waves
Closed center curls smaller in size towards ends, for fluffy curls or fine hair
Clockwise curls same direction as the hands of a clock Counterclockwise curls opposite direction as hands of a clock
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Pincurl Parts
base attached to scalp immovable
on base/tight curl half stem
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hairstyling.notebook
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Pin curls 3.
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Rectangular base side front hairline for a smooth upsweep effect Pin curls overlap to prevent splits.
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Triangular base prevents splits along hairline
• Arc base half moon or Cshape base carved out of shaping Most common, good direction, at front hairline & nape
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Square base little volume, even construction on curly styles
Ribboning forcing strands of hair between thumb & back of comb, creates tension
Rules for Pin curls • pin curls overlap in shaping • pin curls follow shaping • ribbon the hair • Size of curl= size of wave
Anchoring Pin Curls • Anchor at open end opposite stem • clip thu half of donut hole • place cotton between skin & clip
Ridge curls curls placed behind or below a ridge form waves a finger wave w/pin curls at end
Waves 2 rows of pin curls, 1 clockwise, 1 counterclockwise
Skip waves two rows of ridge curls Carved or Sculpted curls pin curls sliced from shaping w/out lifting hair from head
Cascade or stand up curls create height, stand up on base, flow upward & downward
Barrel curls large standup curls, rectangular base w/out tension, where rollers won't fit Oct 25 4:52 PM
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Parts of a Roller
4.
Ø Base roller bed, same width/length as roller Ø Stem direction & mobility, between scalp & first turn Ø Curl size of roller = size of curl
Roller Placement Ø On base full volume, on base, overdirect hair Ø One half base medium volume, half on, half off base Ø Off base little volume, behind base, 45 degrees
Roller Size
One complete turn = Cshape curl Hair wound 1&1/2 turns on roller = wave Twoandahalf turns = curl
Indentation where curls in opposite directions meet
Hot Rollers heat w/electric or steam, dry hair set, 10min. less curl than wet set, lasts longer than curling iron
Velcro rollers dry hair only w/ dryer, disinfect between uses, not allowed in some states
Securing rollers clip roller base & scalp, never on top of roller, creates dents
Back combing teasing, matting, French lacing or ratting creates cushion, volume
Smooth back combed hair hold teeth of comb/brush 45 degrees
Back brushing (ruffing) creates soft cushion, builds volume
Hair wrapping extremely curly hair, little volume wrap & dry hair around head w/out lifting Oct 25 4:52 PM
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Hairstyling
5.
Blow dry styling dry & style in one operation builds shape nape to crown
Concentrator nozzle attachment directs stream of heat
Diffuserattachment dries hair softly, defines curls (texture)
Styling gel thickened liquid, strong control, definition
Straightening gel straight look on blown dried hair
Texturizers hold fine hair w/out heaviness
Hair spray or finishing spray hold finished style
Naturally curly or permed hair holds the style longest
Blowdrying hair v dry scalp w/circular motion for rough drying only v direct heat away from scalp & around brush v never hold blower too long in one place v intake at back of dryer must be kept clear
Combs w/closely spaced teeth create smooth surface on hair
Classic styling brush 79 rows round tipped nylon bristles heat resistant & antistatic
Paddle brush large, flat base, smooth style on long hair
Grooming brush oval shaped, natural bristles or nylon mix
Vent brush adds lift at scalp for blow dries
Round brushes for blow drying to add curl maximum lift insert brush at base & section up to 125 degrees
Updo's stay in better on hair not freshly shampooed
Chignon classic style of a pony tail dressed up w/hair ornaments Oct 25 4:52 PM
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hairstyling.notebook
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Thermal Hairstyling
6.
Thermal waving/curling dry, straight or pressed hair w/thermal irons, electric or stove heated
Rod, shell & barrel parts of curling iron
Flat irons 2 flat, hot plates =straight, smooth styles Inner edges of beveled flat irons face stylist
Classifications of irons • conventional stove heated • electric selfheated
Combs used w/irons made of hard rubber, 7in. long
Temperature setting depends on texture
Porous papers stored until used • test irons on white paper or damp towel • lightened or white hair lukewarm iron • coarse or gray hair more heat • chemically treated caution, avoid breakage
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Care of Thermal Irons wash in soapy water w/few drops of ammonia removes dirt & grease οverheating ruins irons
spiral curls wind hair spirally, for medium/long hair end curls ends turn under, finished appearance volumebased curls max. lift & volume, overdirected/on base
full base strong curl, full volume, overdirect, 125 degrees
halfbase strong curl, moderate volume, 90 degrees
offbase little volume,underdirected, 70 degrees Oct 25 4:52 PM
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Hair pressing
7.
Combs hard rubber combs under iron prevent scalp burns Metal combs transmit heat. Practice w/a cold marcel pressing iron Hair pressing temporarily straightens overly curly hair using a heated comb w/out damage to hair Analyze: texture, elasticity, porosity, scalp condition Texture defined by diameter & feel Three types of hair pressing: • soft press removes 50%60% of curl apply moderate pressure once, each side •
medium pressremoves 60%75% of curl apply slightly more pressure once, each side
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hard press removes 100% of curl use a double press twice, each side
Double press pressing hair twice, each side If soft press is unsatisfactory, use hard press Silking & thermal straightening terms for pressing Burnt hair cannot be reconditioned. Do not press if hair has: scalp abrasions Contagious disorders Chemically treated hair
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
Hair Pressing 8. Coarse hair largest diameter, requires more heat & pressure
Medium hair average hair, least resistant to pressing
Fine hair special care, use less heat & pressure
Wiry, curly fine, medium or coarse, requires most pressure & heat
Scalp condition • normal • tight • flexible
pressed hair
Tight scalp/coarse hair press hair in direction it grows
Scalp massage/brushing makes tight scalp more flexible
Conditioning treatments improve pressing results
2 types of pressing combs, made of stainless steel • regular heat on gas stoves or electric heaters • electric on & off switch or thermostat controlled
Heating the combs face teeth of comb upward w/handle away from heat
Test iron temperature on white paper
Cleaning combs remove carbon between teeth using an emery board, steel wool pad or fine sand paper
Baking sodasoak clean thermal combs for 1 hour, restores shine
Pressing oil or creamprior to pressing, softens & protects hair
Back of rod does actual pressing. Oct 25 4:52 PM
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hairstyling.notebook
November 22, 2011
HAIRPRESSING
9.
Touch ups necessary when hair becomes damp and reverts
Skin rash allergic reaction to pressing oil, use nonperfumed oil or cream
Scalp burns apply 1% gentian violet jelly
Avoid: • excessive heat, especially on tinted, lightened or gray hair (may discolor or break) • too much pressing oil causes smoking • perfumed oils • too frequent hair pressing
Updo hair arranged up and off shoulders Inspect shape for balance and proportion
Classic french twist traditional for weddings and black tie events, larger shape than basic twist, more creative in front
Chignon classic updo style with a decorated ponytail
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hairstyling.notebook
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hairstyling.notebook
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roller set and teased hair
roller set or spiral curls with an iron
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