HYDRANGEA Q &A Why aren’t my macrophylla hydrangeas blooming? 1. Too much shade – limb up trees for high shade or move plant to more sun 2. Late freeze killed buds – You could select hardy varieties such as “Endless Summer”, “Penny Mac”, “Preziosa”, “Mme Emile Mouillere”, “All Summer Beauty”, “Dooley”, but if you have a late freeze when the plants have leafed out you will find most hydrangeas will lose their main (terminal) buds regardless of how winter hardy they are. 3. Incorrect pruning – for most mophead and lace cap hydrangeas you should prune right after blooming but not any later than late July to avoid cutting off next year’s buds. Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens bloom on new wood and should be pruned in late winter. How can I make my mophead hydrangeas turn blue/pink/purple? Most folks with straight hair want curly hair and vice versa. Consider appreciating the color of your hydrangea as it is, selecting a cultivar that is prone to the color of choice, or… 1. To turn Hydrangea macrophylla blue use a fertilizer low in phosphorus and high in potassium or the organic approach, Espoma Hollytone as directed or 1 tablespoon aluminum sulphate per gallon of water before buds set in July and then again in August. The more acidic your soil, the more likely your hydrangeas will be blue (pH of 5.5 or below). Avoid high phosphorous fertilizers (see #2). 2. To turn Hydrangea macrophylla pink or red spread Espoma garden lime (2 cups per plant and water in during early spring and again in autumn). Seek a pH of 6.5 or better. Aluminum is in ready supply in acidic soils, but phosphorous locks up aluminum; so you could consider applying rock phosphate or bone meal. 3. To turn Hydrangea macrophylla purple you need skill and luck and the right variety. “Merritt’s Beauty”, “Ami Pasquier”, or “Mathilda Gutges” are good varieties to try. The soil pH needs to be right in the middle of the scale between turning hydrangeas pink or blue (about 6.0) 4. You won’t turn “Annabelles”, "Blushing Bride" (or any other mophead that is white) blue or pink, but she does respond well to an application of Hollytone in making blooms a brighter white. White macrophyllas (mophead or lacecaps) that are tinted pink or blue will be made more so by adding lime or aluminum sulphate, respectively. Keep in mind that you won’t achieve color change overnight. It is a slow process. Color can be affected by location. A concrete walk nearby can help turn hydrangeas pink. Hydrangeas under pine trees are apt to be blue from the acidic breakdown of pine needles.

What companion plants will complement my hydrangeas? Oakleaf – Magnolia, Red Maple, and Sourwood (red fall foliage to echo the color); Front with a medium growing blue hosta and a layer of purple shamrock; also Autumn Fern, Astilbe, Aruncus (Goatsbeard), Virginia Sweetspire look good with Oakleafs. “Cleopatra” Camellia sasanqua shows off well in the fall as the foliage of Oakleafs turn maroon. White impatiens look fabulous underneath. Macrophylla – under plant with clematis to climb up through to give mid-spring bloom, lower growing ferns, Forget-me-nots, Astilbe, European Ginger, Pulmonaria (Lungwort), Exima “Luxuriant” Bleeding Heart, Lenten rose, Iris cristata (bloom while hydrangeas are dormant), Epimedium, Sarcococca, and Bergenia. Nearby plantings might include Rhododendron, Daphne odora, Cephalotaxus “Harrington”, Camellia sasanqua, Pieris japonica, Cimicifuga, and Thalictrum. Arborescens – upright Cephalotaxus, spiky & tall Astilbe, Marianna Maiden Fern, Lady Fern, Shaggy Shield Fern, Kalimeris (Japanese Aster), and variegated hosta all look terrific.

What is the bloom sequence of the various species (in Greensboro, NC)? Oakleaf blooms late May and early June Annabelles bloom in early June Macrophylla begin blooming in early to mid June and some varieties bloom a week or two later Paniculata bloom in July and August, except "Quickfire" which blooms in late June Note: in May of 2010 everything has been two weeks earlier due to a warm spring and lack of a late freeze. How do I prune hydrangeas? Anomala (and other hydrangea vines)- after blooming but probably would never need this. Oakleaf – After blooming to shape only (as it probably doesn’t need any pruning). Arborescens – late February -- I prune the old wood not more than 24 inches from the ground for stiffer stems to support somewhat smaller blooms. I hate the way the blooms splay when it rains if you prune them hard in late winter. I’ve found that if the old wood is not pruned so hard it is more supportive of the blooms. Macrophylla – You should prune after blooming to shape but, as a general rule, not later than late July. Cut the old, woody stems that are finger thick or that are misshapen all the way to the ground (about a third of the plant for a three-year old plus shrub and continue pruning a third successive years to stimulate greater blooms). In spring if you are unsure if winter damage occurred, wait until it leafs out to remove old stems. This kind of pruning helps rejuvenate the plant. Also pinch out the damaged, dead top buds to encourage the side buds to flower. Flower buds are formed at the terminal (end) of the

stem and, if not killed by cold, provide the show. However, additional flower buds are also present, often along the entire length of the stem, just not as large as the terminal bud. Paniculata – PeeGee and Tardivas should be pruned back in late February to 1 to 2 inches of where last year’s growth started. We prune our Limelights back to 24" since they front Viburnum opulus sterilis (Chinese snowball) which bloom in mid-April, and the Limelights are producing nearly 100 blooms per plant by early August.

What diseases and pests affect hydrangeas? Relatively pest free, but the most likely problems are botrytis, bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, spider mites, slugs and aphids. Hydrangea aspera is loved by Japanese beetles. ‘Ayesha’, ‘Lilacina’ and ‘Veitchii’ are among the most mildew resistant cultivars. What do hydrangeas need to thrive? Penny McHenry, the late founder of the American Hydrangea Society, always talked to her hydrangeas, and never tells one of her “girls” that she’s “so pretty” for fear that others might hear and have their feelings hurt. Otherwise, here are a few tips: 1. Macrophyllas prefer morning and late afternoon sun but not overhead direct sun. We haven’t found that Oakleafs tolerate hot sun well despite what reference books say. Hydrangea paniculata and arborescens can tolerate more, but again, we prefer to give them a break from any intense sun. 2. We are firm believers in compost! Add a 2 inch top mulch in late winter and in the fall. Abundant compost has earthworms as well as humus and excellent nutrients and promote micorhizzae which greatly enhance the nutrient uptake of feeder roots. Humus in the soil helps enhance by ten times the pH range in which nutrients are at their optimum (e.g., a hydrangea with an optimal pH of 6.5 can reach optimal intake at 5.5 or 7.5 with appropriate levels of humus in the soil). We avoid cow manure as it can be loaded with uncomposted cloverand other weed seed which is a thug to contend with – use Mushroom Compost or your home-made compost instead. 3. Water and water deeply. Penny would not allow visitors in her garden in the afternoon when her "girls" were droopy. We avoid mid-day watering as it can spot the foliage as well as blooms. 4. Protect from winter winds. Plant in the correct location. 5. Plant in well-drained soil with a liberal addition of organic matter such as compost or Mushroom Compost. We also like to incorporate polymers such as Soil Moist to help retain moisture. And mulch well with needles, soil conditioner or pine mulch. 6. Broadleaf trees like oaks, maples, beeches and hickories are fierce competitors for water and nutrients unless supplemental irrigation is provided.

7. Fertilize twice a year (early spring and half application in fall of Espoma Hollytone for blue hydrangeas and Espoma Plant Tone for pink). Phosporous should be avoided if you want to keep your hydranges pink. Newly planted Annabelles need fish emulsion every week as soon as they leaf out and until they bloom. How do I dry mophead blooms (and Annabelle’s)? It is all in the timing. Wait until blooms begin to feel “papery” or rustle when you touch them. Cut early in the day and plunge stems in tepid water. Strip all leaves. Hold individual stems over a flame for 10 seconds then plunge the stem in ice water for 10 seconds. String the stems together and hang upside down in a dark closet until dried, usually 2 weeks or less. Penny would ride around in the heat of Atlanta's summer with hydrangeas stacked in the trunk of her pink convertible. How do I cut mophead blooms for flower arranging? Wait until the blooms are at least a couple of weeks old before cutting to avoid wilting. Water the plant well the night before cutting. Cut blooms in early morning and submerge entire blooms and stems in tepid water for two hours for conditioning. Strip foliage and make a fresh 45 degree cut on the end of the stem or bruise it lightly with a hammer to help absorb water. There are various tips on what to add to the water, but I prefer to use regular water with a touch of bleach and change it frequently. If the blooms ever wilt, cut 2 inches off of the stem and put in fresh water. It should refresh. Which hydrangeas are repeat bloomers? ‘Endless Summer’, ‘Penny Mac’, "Mini-Penny" ‘Annabelles’(if you remove the 1st flush in early July), ‘Decatur Blue’, ‘David Ramsey’, "Blushing Bride",‘Oak Hill’, ‘All Summer Beauty’, ‘Lilacina’. Both ‘Grayswood’ and ‘Blue Deckle’ flower till frost. Also, the new Forever and Ever series with seven varieties of mopheads and lacecaps.

OUR FAVORITE HYDRANGEAS Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’- fantastic in a mass planting. One of the best for drying. “Hayes Starburst” looks like a fireworks display with its explosion of frilly white blooms. We’re impressed with the brand new “Invincibelle Spirit”, a pink Annabelle from Proven Winners and will plant a few in the fall when we are home enough to keep well watered. Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Snowflake’ and ‘Harmony-’ Two of the most interesting hydrangeas in our garden. We gather these as they begin to dry on the plant. ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Alice’, rubrum, and ‘Dayspring’ (grows huge) are great varieties. Oakleafs were Penny’s favorite, if you

twisted her arm since remember she didn’t play favorites, and we love them as well – maybe Annabelles the most when they are blooming but Oakleafs for year-round interest. Hydrangea macrophylla ‘All Summer Beauty’ Just a gorgeous plant with several colors of bloom. ‘Ami Pasquier’ We love the various colors it can have on each plant and it blooms a long time. ‘Ayesha’ cupped sepals are amazing – inflorescent against glossy foliage. A must- have in any hydrangea garden. ‘Penny Mac’ brilliant blue and remontant. The jury is out on ‘Mini-Penny’ – have seen a floriferous one in Penny's garden, and ours is having its best spring so far. “Blushing Bride’ is the white mophead, repeat bloomer in the Endless Summer series – generally, we are more impressed with Penny Mac than Endless Summer for repeat bloom, but Blushing Bride has a profusion of good-sized white mophead blooms and repeats sporadically in fall – plant a bunch of these if you are hosting a wedding reception in your backyard. ‘Harlequin’ pink with white outline on sepals makes it a child’s favorite. ‘Madame Emile Mouillere’ We love the ‘eye’ of this white mophead that shows the ‘ph’ level by turning pink or blue ‘Blue Wave’ brilliant blue lace cap ‘Tokyo Delight’ huge white lace cap that speckles pink and blue on sepals ‘Westphalen’ has deep purplish blue mopheads “Lady n Red’ – much more impressive in the garden than at the garden center – we like the maroon foliage with profusion of white speckled white lacecap blooms – a great mixed border plant There’s a bunch more, and this spring has reinvigorated our passion as there isn’t a hydrangea in our garden (several dozen varieties) that is not gorgeous this year. Hydrangea serrata ‘Preziosa’ best for drying, great red foliage and red stems – also great mixed border plant ‘Blue Deckle’ keeps on blooming throughout the summer. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Pink Diamond’ superior dried blooms; but like its dwarf cousin even more with the unfortunate name of "Pinky Winky". ‘Tardiva’ reminds me of an outdoor chandelier with the upturned white blooms. "Limelight" is simply amazing – like 100 flashlights shining within the shrub at dusk Schizophragma hydrangeoides ‘Moonlight’ -- this isn’t technically in the hydrangea family but it is a beauty climbing up my oak tree with that fabulous gray striping which is especially striking at dusk.

Hydrangea anomal petiolaris is a wonderful vine – slow to get started then becomes Jack in the Beanstalk -- nearly took over our tool shed

Michael Dirr’s book on hydrangeas is excellent for giving a lot of information geared towards Southern growing – others have an English or French perspective. Also, if you have become a hydrangeaphile, I’d recommend joining the American Hydrangea Society – they sponsor a wonderful tour of private gardens each year in the Atlanta area, hold regular meetings at the Atlanta History Center with engaging speakers, and publish a highly informative newsletter that often recaps or reprints the talks given. Hope this has been helpful to you. Let us know if you have any questions. Larry and Lee Newlin [email protected]