THE WEST’S BEST

FREE TRAVEL GUIDE When to go, what to see, and how to beat the crowds to get the most out of these breathtaking natural wonders.

NATIONAL

PARKS Click on each park to go to that page.

Yosemite

Yellowstone

Grand Canyon

Glacier

Olympic

Grand Teton

Hawai’i Volcanoes

Zion

YOSEMITE • CALIFORNIA

The National Park was born here, on June 30, 1864, when President Lincoln signed a bill establishing a preserve in California’s Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias. For the first time, a natural landscape was set aside so that a nation’s citizens could explore it. About the park: Yosemite is a big park―(nearly 1,200 square miles) but most visitors spend most of their time in Yosemite Valley, where over a dozen waterfalls splash, including the highest in North America, Yosemite Falls, at 2,425 ft. And Half Dome and El Capitan lure world-class climbers, artists and photographers. But don’t neglect the other less-traveled parts of the park. North of the valley, the verdant Tuolumne Meadows offers some of the park’s best hiking. South, Glacier Point Road leads to some of the park’s most amazing views, Wawona retains an easy, 19th century charm, and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees enshrines the giant sequoias that helped earn Yosemite its fame. Planning your visit: Yosemite lies 195 miles east of San Francisco, 175 southeast of Sacramento, and 90 miles northeast of Fresno. The main gateway towns to Yosemite are El Portal, on California 140 just west of the park; Mariposa, also on 140 30 miles southwest from El Portal; Groveland, on California 120 west of the park; and Oakhurst, on California 41 south of the park. When to go: Yosemite is a four-seasons park. Summer is the busiest, with highs in the 80s and occasional thunderstorms. Fall offers warm days, cool nights and fall color. Winter brings lows in the 20s, considerable snow at higher elevations and lesser quantities in the valley. Spring is gorgeous, with blossoming dogwoods, splashing waterfalls and highs in the 60s.

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Beat the crowds: To beat the crowds, go anytime other than Memorial Day through Labor Day. If you have to go in summer, the park’s free buses are key. Just park once, then shuttle painlessly to all the Yosemite Valley attractions. Or drive to the less-crowded high country. Tioga Road, generally open from late May to mid-November, brings the High Sierra close to your window. First-time essentials: Hike to Yosemite Falls (which usually dries up mid-August), stick a toe in the Merced River, and take a meal, or a room, in the 1927 Ahwahnee Hotel, which has views of Half Dome, Glacier Point, and the Royal Arches. Or simply bask beside the huge fireplace in the Great Lounge. Hint: The Ahwahnee Bar offers riveting views, as well as an inexpensive, kid-friendly menu.

YELLOWSTONE • WYOMING

At nearly 3,500 square miles, Yellowstone is larger than Rhode Island and Delaware combined! There are dozens of must-see sites, and one can easily be an hour’s drive from the next. This is a park where you’ll want to take your time. ABOUT THE PARK: Yellowstone sits atop a 1,500-square-mile volcanic caldera. While the last big eruption occurred an estimated 640,000 years ago, continuing volcanic activity fuels the park’s mud pots and geysers — sixty percent of the world’s geysers are here. Water is another force. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone — equal in beauty if not in size to the more famous Grand Canyon in Arizona — was shaped by the Yellowstone River carving its way into the park’s signature gold-colored rock. The canyon’s two waterfalls — Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls — are the best known of the park’s 300-plus cascades. Yellowstone Lake is the largest high-altitude lake in the United States. PLANNING YOUR VISIT: Yellowstone lies in northwestern Wyoming (with slivers of the park stretching into Idaho and Montana). Nearest airports are at West Yellowstone and Bozeman, Montana, and Cody and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. When to go: Summer is peak visitor season in the park, which means rooms and campsites can be hard to find. September and October can be beautiful, with fewer crowds, great fall color, and good wildlife watching — it’s one of the best times to go. Winters are snowy and very cold (with lows in the 10s), but the Yellowstone Snow Lodge and Snow Coaches give winter visitors a chance to see the park and its wildlife in near-solitude. Beat the crowds: The Old Faithful Village and Canyon Village areas are the busiest parts of the park; Mammoth Hot Springs and especially the Tower–Roosevelt area, both in the park’s northern half, seem quiet by comparison. And wherever you are, you can avoid throngs by heading out early — either on a morning ranger-led walk or on your own.

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First-time essentials: Start with the park’s hydrothermal mascot, Old Faithful, but don’t ignore other nearby spouts, like those on aptly named Geyser Hill. From there, it’s a short walk to the Old Faithful Inn (opens in May), the timbered lodge that’s a heavenly hybrid of castle and treehouse. Then head to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone: Trails along both north and south rims give unforgettable views of the canyon and its waterfalls. Finally, hit Lamar Valley, a favored location to observe Yellowstone wildlife, from bison to elk to river otters.

GRAND CANYON • ARIZONA

First-timers invariably feel overwhelmed by the sheer immensity of the 277-mile-long canyon. Its iconic sandstone monoliths, towers, and temples appear almost unreal, like nothing so much as a giant postcard. About the park: The canyon is a mile deep, and from rim to river, it encompasses 1.8 billion years of geology. When you take a look at the great eroded buttes, monoliths, and temples that comprise Northern Arizona’s canyon and how these formations’ contours and colors change with the light, you’re bound to wonder how such a miracle came to be. Gaze down and you’ll notice that there’s something missing. From most points on the South Rim, you cannot even see all the way to the bottom of the canyon where the Colorado River runs. Planning your visit: Grand Canyon park lies about 225 miles north of Phoenix and 275 miles east of Las Vegas; nearest towns are Tusayan, just south of the park, and Williams and Flagstaff, farther to the south and southeast. Note that the distance from the South Rim to the North requires a 200-mile drive (or a 22-mile hike). When to go: Summers are the most popular time here — both North and South Rims are open, and it’s peak season for Colorado River rafting. Weather is hot, especially within the canyon, and thunderstorms are common. Autumn is beautiful, with turning aspen and cool, clear days. The North Rim generally closes in mid-October, to reopen mid-May. Winter on the South Rim is quieter, with a dusting of snow at the top of the canyon, and warmer temperatures within. Spring weather can be changeable, veering from snow and rain in March to warmer temperatures later in the season.

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Beat the crowds: Yes, you have to see the South Rim, but leave time for the less-crowded north side of the park. There’s nothing quite like taking in the panorama from the veranda of the Grand Canyon Lodge-North Rim, where, if you plan ahead, you might score a coveted rim-view cabin. For a great intro hike and spectacular views, take the 3-mile Transept Trail, which leaves from the property. First-time essentials: You’ll definitely want to dine in the native stone and Douglas fir dining room at El Tovar and see its murals of Southwest Native American tribes. For one of the few good looks at the Colorado River from the South Rim and to visit a Mary Colter masterpiece, drive out to her Desert View Watchtower, which was inspired by ancient structures in the Four Corners area.

GLACIER • MONTANA

Since President Taft established the area as a national park in 1910, countless visitors have enjoyed the lodges, lakes, wildlife, and the grandeur of the mountains the Blackfeet Indians called the “Backbone of the World.” About the park: Formed more than 1.5 million years ago by an inland sea, a mountain-building event, and glaciers, the 1,600-square-mile park features 185 named mountains, 762 lakes, 68 species of mammals — including black and grizzly bears — 277 species of birds, and 700 miles of hiking trails. But don’t wait to visit. As of 2013 only 20 glaciers remained, and current estimates expect the park to be completely glacierless due to rising temperatures in 2030. Planning your visit: Glacier lies in north-central Montana. Nearest airports are in Kalispell, 25 miles west of park headquarters in West Glacier, and in Great Falls, 150 miles southeast of East Glacier. Amtrak serves both East and West Glacier. The Logan Pass section of the Going-to-the-Sun Road generally opens in late May or early June. When to go: Glacier is mostly a summer park: summer highs run in the 70s. Autumns are beautiful, although park facilities begin shutting down by October. Winters are intense, with 4-feet snowfalls and temperatures in the 10s and 20s. But if you can swing an early September visit, you get the best of all worlds: Everything’s open, weather is great, and crowds are sparse. Beat the crowds: Compared with other parks, Glacier seldom feels crowded even in midsummer, except in the Logan Pass area. Medicine Lake, on the park’s eastern side, doesn’t get the attention Lake McDonald does. But it’s a quiet place to spend the day, with hiking and rental boats.

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First-time essentials: Going-to-the-Sun Road offers 50 miles of occasionally scary but mostly awe-inspiring twists and turns and views. Logan Pass, at the road’s crest, has an engaging visitor center and serves as starting point for Highline Trail hikes. Another classic day hike leads from Many Glacier Hotel to Grinnell Glacier. Other must-dos: Cruise Lake McDonald on the historic wooden boat, DeSmet, or tour the park on one of the beloved red open-top buses.

OLYMPIC • WASHINGTON

With a dreamy, otherworldly atmosphere, Olympic National Park is home to some of the densest rain forests and biggest trees in the world, as well as unique plant and animal species, and moss-softened gorges where waterfalls splash — not to mention 7,000-foot mountains, sixty named glaciers, and long, gorgeous beaches. About the park: Olympic’s 1,441 square miles occupy much of the Olympic Peninsula, due west from Seattle. The park is basically divided in two. Its largest portion lies inland, centered around the Olympic Mountains. Separate and to the west is the park’s coastal section, some 70 miles of beaches with names both romantic (Ruby) and matter-of-fact (Beach 1, Beach 2, and so on). Both sections are home to an impressive array of wildlife. Planning your visit: Olympic National Park is three hours west of and across Puget Sound from Seattle. It’s accessible via ferry from Port Townsend, WA, or via U.S. 101 from Olympia, WA. When to go: Summers are beautiful here, with highs in the 60s and 70s and frequent sun. Waterfalls are at their ferocious best in spring and early summer, but rain can dampen spirits. July and August bring drier days — and crowds. Late summer is the least rainy time to visit. Beat the crowds: Hurricane Ridge is least congested before 10 a.m.

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and after 5 p.m. (also the best time to snap photos and, often, to spot wildlife). If the Hoh Rain Forest is overrun, try the Quinault Rain Forest or the Queets, which is about two hours south. For crowd-free beach time, pick one (like Second Beach) that requires a short walk or hike. First-time essentials: Drive up to 5,242-foot Hurricane Ridge, the easiest way to reach the heart of the mountains; from there, hike half-mile-long High Ridge for parkwide views. Then hit the coast (a three-hour drive from Hurricane Ridge) and beachcomb among towering sea stacks at Second Beach.

GRAND TETON • WYOMING

Grand Teton is tops for activities like mountain climbing (it’s a great place to learn) and river running — floating the Snake River through the park is one of the best things you can do on a summer day. About the park: The park centers on the Grand Teton range — whose tallest peak is 13,770-foot Grand Teton itself — and the Jackson Hole valley below it. Yellowstone lies immediately to the north, and the two parks can be easily combined in one vacation. They are different from each other, though. Grand Teton doesn’t have Yellowstone’s geothermal spectacles — no geysers, no mudpots. But Yellowstone doesn’t have the views ­— made famous by photographer Ansel Adams and others — of the Grand Teton mountains with the Snake River curling in front of them. Both parks have good wildlife watching. Planning your visit: Grand Teton National Park is about 5 miles north of Jackson, Wyoming, and spans across most of the valley known as Jackson Hole. Direct flights into Jackson are available from Salt Lake City and Denver. Yellowstone National Park adjoins the park on the north. When to go: May generally marks the start of the visitor season here. Most of Grand Teton’s 4 million annual visitors come in summer; expect warm days and afternoon thunderstorms. Fall is less crowded and very beautiful, although scheduled park activities are fewer. Beat the crowds: If you want to have the park practically to yourself, consider a trip in the winter. Although cold and snowy, the views and mountain scenery are still spectacular, and some activities (like guided snow shoe walks) are available.

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First-time essentials: Jackson and Jackson Hole — the first is the name of the town, the second the name of the whole valley that runs north of it — are special. Once home to fur trappers and cowboys, they’re now an entertaining mix of the rustic Old West and the affluent new. With the Jackson Hole Community Center for the Arts, the National Museum of Wildlife Art, and dozens of art galleries, Jackson has become a major center for Western painting and sculpture. Food and drink possibilities range from the new and upscale to the classic joints like the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. And once you have your fill of town life, Grand Teton trails are waiting for you.

HAWAI’I VOLCANOES • HAWAII

A fiery tongue of lava licks the Pacific, sending glowing steam into the tropical air. Four thousand feet above, hot clouds rise from a rip in a volcanic valley. Welcome to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, on the Big Island of Hawaii. About the park: Hawai’i Volcanoes national park offers dramatic proof that the Hawaiian Islands — and planet Earth — are still under construction. The park’s centerpiece, 4,000-foot-high Kilauea, is among the most active volcanoes anywhere in the world — the reason, perhaps, that Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, is said to have chosen it for her home. The park also encompasses 13,680-foot Mauna Loa — the largest volcano in the world — and also an active one, last erupting in 1984. Planning your visit. Located on the Big Island of Hawaii, the 520-squaremile park lies about a 45-minute drive southwest from Hilo, and about two hours southeast from Kona. When to go: Park elevations range from 4,000 feet at the top of Kilauea to sea level, and weather and temperatures range too. Rainy and slightly cool weather (in the 60s) is not uncommon at the summit, especially in winter; the park coastline is hotter and drier. You can see the heart of the park — Kilauea Caldera — in a half day. Allow a full day if you want to drive Chain of Craters Road and hike any of the trails along it. Active lava flows, like those seen from the Kapalana Lava Viewing Area, are best experienced after dark.

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First-time essentials: Don’t miss the clouds of steam rising from a valley of blackened lava at Kilauea, the heart of the park. The 18-mile Chain of Craters Road leads through the heart of Hawai’i Volcanoes national park, dropping 3,700 feet as it winds down the mountains to the Pacific. It comes to a sudden stop where the pavement was buried in lava in 2003; if you’re lucky, you may get to see active lava flows yourself. The 4-mile Kilauea Iki Trail leads you through native rain forest before it crosses a blackened lake of hardened lava. Eerily beautiful, the Thurston Lava Tube pathway through hardened lava was formed during an eruption several hundred years ago — and you can see it on an easy 0.5-mile trail.

ZION • UTAH

Sandstone cliffs glow red and coral against turquoise skies and reflect shimmeringly in the clear waters of the Virgin River — a glimpse of Heaven on earth. About the park: Nineteenth century Mormon pioneers gave it the Biblical name “Zion,” for the promised land. And once you’ve visited this 147,000-acre park in southwestern Utah you, too, may feel you’ve been granted a glimpse of heaven. In summer, cottonwood trees let loose little white puffballs to float in the warm desert breezes; in fall the same trees blaze brilliant yellow against the surrounding red rock. No wonder renowned artists like Maynard Dixon found inspiration here. Planning your visit: Zion National Park lies in southwestern Utah, about 150 miles northeast of Las Vegas. Park entry is $25 per vehicle. When to go: Autumn is a good time to explore here, with daytime temperatures in the 60s and 70s. Weather can be a factor, especially at higher elevations (the park ranges from 3,600 to 8,700 feet), where snow and ice can block trails; check conditions before you set out. Beat the crowds: Because most of the park’s 2.7 annual visitors funnel into Zion Canyon, it can get busy, especially in the summer. To escape the crowds, consider a fall visit. Or explore other portions of the park. About an hour to the northwest, off I-15, Kolob Canyons contains scenery as dramatic in its own way as Zion Canyon, with a lot fewer visitors. Among the highlights here is Kolob Arch, one of the largest freestanding rock arches in the world. It’s reached by a demanding 14-mile round-trip hike. But a drive along Kolob Canyons Road will show you cliffs and canyons so spectacular you may fill your digital camera’s memory card before you even reach the end of the road.

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First-time essentials: Other southwestern parks, such as Grand Canyon, wow you with vastness and immensity. Zion seduces you with a more intimate beauty. The centerpiece of the park is narrow Zion Canyon, which you experience from bottom up — gazing up at towering rock formations like the Great White Throne and the Court of the Patriarchs. The canyon holds a number of great hikes, from the easy and family-friendly to the challenging; among the classic wilderness experiences in any national park is the trek through the Narrows of the Virgin River, where you splash upstream through canyons not much wider than you are.