®

International Product Safety & Restricted Substances Conference 29 A April il iin D Dongguan

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 (product certification) &

Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 (factory certification) Dr. Elke Lorentzen,, Manager Analytical Testing, TESTEX AG – Swiss Textile Testing Institute, Zürich

Topics

• • •

Latest news of Oeko-Tex® and limit values

•

Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000

Textile Ecology - Oeko-Tex® Standard 100

Restricted substance list AAFA / Oeko-Tex®

Typical Supply Chain

(1 single parameter for which the fiber producer is responsible)

1 Supplier → X clients

1

2

5

10

20

Fiber producer

1

1

1

1

1

Yarn producer

1

2

5

10

20

Fabric producer

1

4

25

100

400

Finishing

1

8

125

1‘000

8‘000

Apparel industry

1

16

625

10‘000

160‘000

Oeko-Tex® Solution

• Accredited Labs • Textile competence → Intelligent testing

• QA/QC • Input-streams Input streams • Processing → Intelligent testing

• QA/QC • „on-site on site“ control • Withdrawal (communication)

• Technical Requirements → Intelligent testing

Unbroken U b o e ce certification t cat o chain c a

(again the same parameter for which the fiber producer is responsible)

Supplier → number of clients

1

2

5

10

20

Fiber producer

1

1

1

1

1

Yarn producer

10

02

05

10 0

20 0

Fabric producer

01

04

25 0

100 0

400 0

Dyehouse

01

08

125 0

1‘000 0

8‘000 0

Apparel industry

01

16 0

625 0

10‘000 0

160‘000 0

Each member of the supply chain takes over responsibility for his own sector!

Textile Chain yarn

fabric

finishing

garment

No tests testing

No tests testing No tests

Testing g and Certification Sewing thread

Fabric

9

9 9

Buttons

Labels

Testing

Lining

9

9

Intelligent testing Which are the most significant testing samples and on which samples the tests really do make sense? Detailed information about the history of a all articles to be assessed (starting materials, processes, auxiliaries (dyes, chemicals), accessories)

??? ??? ???

Latest news of Oeko Oeko-Tex Tex® and limit values pH of foams: The allowed pH range has been opened to 9.0 for foams ((i.e. 4.0 – 9.0))

Lead in articles: Oeko-Tex Oeko Tex® has decided to ensure that Oeko-Tex® certified goods meet the enforced f d CPSIA requirements valid as per 14 August 2011, i.e. 100/90 mg/kg /k total t t l lead l d in i di digested t d sample.

SCCP and TECP: Short chained chlorinated paraffines (SCCP’s) as well as ( y )p p Tris (2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP) are now mentioned as explicitly banned flame retardant and as other chemical residues resid es (0.1 (0 1 %)! Possible other sources: L th treatment Leather t t t and d plasticizer

Site visits (audits): The number of sites visits are increasing. There are planned to visit approx. 3 3’000 000 to 4’000 certificate holders (new and existing) during this year. Profit from this visit as much as you can!

Topics: Expansion of scope of certificate – more security in quality control – enhanced communication with partners (suppliers/customers/Oeko Tex® institute) (suppliers/customers/Oeko-Tex

Third part party requirements req irements Restricted Substance List of AAFA

Release 8 published in March 2011!

American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) Restricted Substance List (RSL) March 2011 Release 8

Third party requirements: AAFA (+/-)

RSL Formaldehyde Heavy metals

n.d. / 75 ppm / 300 ppm n.d. / 75 ppm / 300 ppm

identical

various

various

+ Sb

Pesticides/chlorinated Phenols

t t ll 34 banned totally b d

t t ll 65 banned totally b d

+// differences diff

Phthalates

totally 6 banned

totally 7 banned

Tinorganics

totally 4 banned

totally 4 banned

identical

0.1 μg / m2

0.1 μg / m2

+ PFOA

24 amines banned

24 amines banned

identical

8 dyes banned

26 dyes banned

+ 18 dyes

totally 8 banned

all(*) banned

Banned fibres

asbestos

asbestos

Solvents/green house gases

9 banned

only in

PFOS Azo-dyes Disperse dyes Flame retardants

Dioxins / furanes

25 banned

-

+ 1 and also for adults

*: special case identical relevant for processing (environment) - (textile relevance?)

Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 Applicability to all textile stages Yarn production

P d i off fabrics Production f bi

Finishing

Making-up

Oeko Tex® Standard 1000 – Oeko-Tex The comprehensive standard > First environmental certification system that is especially tailored and clothing industry

for the textile

> Allows a comprehensive assessment of the environmental and social responsibility of ap production site (compared p to other EMS which only partially cover the relevant p areas) > Full recognition of other management systems e.g. ISO 9001, 9001 ISO 14001, 14001 EMAS, EMAS SA 8000

Criteria for Oeko-Tex Oeko Tex® Standard 1000 ƒ ƒ

Compliance with national laws Use of en environmentally-friendly ironment ll friendl prod production tion te technologies, hnologies chemicals, hemi ls dyes d es and nd auxiliaries etc. ƒ Compliance with defined requirements regarding waste air emissions, waste water treatment, waste disposal, dust formation, noise ƒ Optimized use of energy resources and source materials ƒ Compliance with defined requirements regarding social working conditions and safety at working place ƒ Proof of quality and environmental management system ƒ Product certification according to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 (at least 30% of entire output)

Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 – Production ecology Optimized usage of resources: -> > water ater -> energy / electricity -> auxiliaries and resources -> fuels etc. Optimized measures with regard to environmental interfaces: -> waste water -> production d i waste -> air emission -> CO2 Usage of environmentally environmentally-friendly friendly production technologies: -> avoidance of chlorine bleach -> no ozone layer reducible substances -> etc.

Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 – Social aspects Occupational safety / social requirements: -> optimized workplace conditions regarding: noise (e.g. insulation, hearing protection) dust (filter systems, dust protection) no chemicals which are harmful to health -> > wages commensurate with performance -> no child labour -> regulated work and vacation time -> no discrimination and forced labour etc. -> necessary measures to secure occupationall safety f and health management

Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 – Regulations ƒ ƒ ƒ ƒ

Validity of issued certificate: 3 years Right to advertise with label / certificate A Annual l environmental i l report to T Testex Annual conformity audit by Testex

>> Objective: continuous i improvement i off attained i d environmental i l performance f and social conditions

Oeko Tex® Standard 1000 – Oeko-Tex Advantages for companies ƒ specially aligned to the needs of the textile and clothing industry ƒ available worldwide, independent standard ƒ clear and firmly defined criteria and limits ƒ competitive advantages by improved image and credibility ƒ marketing argument for own products ƒ improved employee identification by inclusion / co-responsibility ƒ cost savings through efficient production processes, saving resources, keep emissions within limits, waste minimization, limits minimization etc etc. -> meaningful combination of economic and ecological interests ƒ allows for an overall statement regarding the origin of a product -> Oeko-Tex® Standard 100plus label – across all levels

Oeko-Tex Oeko Tex® Standard 100plus

Sustained cooperation across all production levels Standard 100 optimized at human-ecological level (tested for harmful substances) b )

Standard 1000 environmentally-friendly production

currentlyy labelled garments g accordingg to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 p plus Shandong Lawrance Textiles (CN) Underwear

eterna Gmbh (D)

Suzhou Deylon Textile (CN)

Men‘s shirts, blouses

Arabic head covering