Life in the Caribbean: Martinique The Caribbean conjures images of infinite blue water, fonds blancs and white sandy beaches. Its culture radiates a slow, relaxed and accepting feel, which is exaggerated with the addition of ‘Planteur’ - the local rum cocktail. The island of Martinique combines traditional Caribbean life, stunning landscapes and intriguing history; studying here has been, without doubt, one of the most amazing things I have done. So why wait until you're retired or searching for a tax haven to travel to the Lesser Antilles, when you can do it as a student? I won't bore you with clichéd stories of how my year abroad was 'petrifying' to begin with and that I 'found my feet after a couple of months'. These clichés are there for a reason, however Martinique and the people I met made me instantly feel a sense of the familiar, and my experiences have made me consider myself an honorary Martinican. Martinique truly is a remarkable place to live in. The island has a rich franco-caribbean culture which also means that there are more public holidays than in mainland France, like Carnaval! At the week-long holiday everyone on the island gathers in the capital, Fort-de-France, for street parties, parades and local music, whilst dressed up in masquerade. This period marks the start of ‘carême’ (or Lent) and gives everyone a chance to let their hair down. Carnaval, like in any other catholic community, is full of colorful extravagant costumes, but experiencing it is something else. The atmosphere is electric as you join an immense crowd dancing their way through the city streets, accompanied by the sounds of percussion and chants in Créole. The rhythms, music

and cheers resonate throughout the city, until the groups disperse into the smaller communes where the party carries on into the early hours of the morning. The Créole culture is fascinating; from food, to language and music, Martinique remains unique. It is an island filled with the history of African, French, English, Spanish and Portuguese influences, which can sometimes be a bit of a culture shock, especially the Caribbean spins on Christmas and Easter. Christmas carols are recreated with a positively caribbean vibe, and the vast quantities of braised pork might leave you craving that roast dinner at times. Easter brings about a traditional recipe that each household creates in their own way called matoutou de crabe. This local delicacy is eaten in large quantities on the beach, with friends and family. Part of the island's history is also its rum distilleries. There are several fully functional distilleries spread throughout the island and it is easy to lose an afternoon at rum tastings and slurring the words to Yo Ho A Pirate’s Life For Me. Being in the Caribbean also means island hopping. Given it's location in the Lesser Antilles, sandwiched between Dominica (70km north) and St Lucia (60km south) you would think that transport between islands was easy and cheap. Martinique is considered as France so transport between some islands further away like Antigua or Montserrat can be more expensive and complicated, whereas others like Guadeloupe, Dominica and St Lucia are a little more affordable as a whole,

even if the ferry is still the most expensive part of the trip. Nonetheless, take advantage of this as each island is different to the next, both culturally and physically. There's nothing like whiling the weekend away, caribbean style, at a beach bar in Anguilla listening to calypso music, or blasting through St. Barthélemy on a quad-bike.

Martinique is a haven for outdoor lovers. The variety of outdoor activities is also why the university has one of the most funded sports departments in France. Regular programmes include watersports like wakeboarding, bodyboarding, sailing, kayaking or even weekend snorkelling trips, hikes or a trek up 1397m to the active volcano. Tropical islands aren't complete without waterfalls, and there are several in Martinique, one of which can be jumped off, and another is at the heart of a gorge shaped by the water across millions of years. These crystalline waters provide a catharsis as you confidently reenact a famous shampoo advert, also in the knowledge that those days of pretending your shower head was a waterfall are over. Yes, Martinique is a slice of paradise. Yes, you will improve your french. Yes, you will be immersed in a culture that is one of a kind. Yes, you will get to work on that tan. But don't be fooled either. The island is what I call 'Downtown Caribbean', as there is occasionally an inexplicable sense of it being 'behind the times'. Costs of living are also considerably higher than in the metropole, so paying more for a weekly shop is very normal! There is a distinctive slow, easy-going mood which can be very appealing, but at times, extremely frustrating - being told to wait happens so

often that any delays or inconveniences rarely result in any complaints. Why? C’est la vie! You could arrive at the airport for a flight at eight in the morning, but expect for it to be delayed by up to an hour. My Top 3 Experiences/ Places These aren’t really in order of preference as such, since the list goes beyond three: The Obligatory Hammock spending a night out on a hammock after a music festival and waking up to the sound of the waves lapping against the shore; the sunrise through the tree branches and waters blue. Carnaval - well... the colors and music and sounds and atmosphere. Unreal.

Petit Anse d’Arlet - an otherwise quiet fishing village with a jetty directly outside the church doors. One of the best places to watch the sky pulsate with an amber glow as the sun sets into the horizon. Although the year abroad in Martinique is centered around the university and classes, it is in fact only a very small part of the overall experience. The social side is unlike any other - beach parties all round! The landscape and all the island has to offer more than makes up for the university's shortcomings. But as with any other place you may choose to spend your year abroad in, be it France or any other francophone country, Martinique grows on you and in time you might even establish it as a home away from home. I was lucky right from the start as I had formed a fantastic friendship with my landlady who I now regard as an extended family, and integrating in local life makes me feel like I truly belong here. From what I have experienced, Martinique has so much to offer from the constant sunshine to the smell of your neighbour’s créole cuisine, wafting through your windows and tantalising your taste buds with the aroma of the bouquet garni and the curry based colombo. At the end of the day, studying and living in the French West Indies sounds very edgy! That also makes a great conversation starter, trust me.