HUNGARY & TRANSYLVANIA 2 – 13 MAY 2004

TOUR REPORT LEADER: JÁNOS OLÁH JR

Hungary & Transylvania is a classic Eastern European bird tour. This was the third time for Birdquest to visit both Hungary and Romania within one tour. The weather was unusually cooler than average but still perfect for birdwatching. It was mostly overcast in the Zemplén Hills and Transylvania with some low clouds in the higher mountains. Some bright and sunny days occurred in the Hortobágy with temperatures of around 20-25 °C in the afternoon. In the mountains, the mornings were distinctly cool and sometimes windy. We were lucky, however, to have major rainfall only on travel days or at night. Altogether 220 species were recorded during the 12 days, which is undoubtedly a very high number for Europe. Hungary and Transylvania are well-established as one of the prime birding destinations in Europe and offer a great selection of exciting specialities ranging from the marvellous Wallcreeper of the higher elevations to the skulking Aquatic Warbler of the lowlands. Raptors are abundant and include Saker, Red-footed Falcon and both Imperial and White-tailed Eagles. There is also the prospect of all the European woodpeckers, an excellent selection of owls and a series of interesting ‘backup’ species such as Western Capercaillie, Little Crake, Corncrake, Great Bustard, Moustached Warbler, Collared Flycatcher etc. Equally memorable is the opportunity to look for Carpathian Brown Bears in Transylvania. The 2004 Spring trip certainly lived up to this billing. On the first day we left Budapest at 1100 and headed straight for Tokaj. John and Bev saw their first new species en route, a magnificent adult Imperial Eagle along the M3 motorway. After a little more than 3 hours later we arrived in Tokaj where we spent 3 nights while birding in the Zemplén. The Zemplén area is a range of rounded chalk hills cloaked in ancient deciduous forest with the occasional peculiar volcanic outcrop on which there is invariably a castle, most of which were ruined in the battles against the Turks in the sixteenth century. We were greeted by White Storks on nests and a singing European Serin on a nearby wire. In the afternoon we started some forest birding with the guidance of Zoltán “Woodpecker Man” Petrovics, our local guide. We visited the Eastern Zemplén Hills and had a little stroll through some oak woodland. After about fifty meters a fine Black Woodpecker flew over us. We took a little side valley and soon we found a female Ural Owl, and could take delight in a prolonged view of this small-eyed, long-tailed owl by telescope. John moved even closer with Zoli to take some pictures and they saw the two fluffy chicks in the nest box too. Meanwhile a nervous Middle Spotted Woodpecker was glimpsed. On our walk back we saw both Hawfinch and a graceful Collared Flycatcher alternately. Late afternoon we drove to a quarry where 1 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

we were lucky to find a female Eurasian Eagle Owl in full view as she was resting with her 2 chicks on the rock face. Not less than six Eurasian Wrynecks were fighting nearby and a fine Lesser Spotted Eagle perched very close to the roadside was bonus for the day too. We got back to the hotel and had our first taste of the famous Tokaj wine at dinner. The next day, before breakfast, we did some birdwatching in the quarry at Tokaj. We could observe some Lesser Whitethroats and enjoy the beautiful song-flight of the displaying Barred Warblers. We also scoped two Eurasian Eagle Owl chicks in perfect light. After a substantial breakfast we drove to a nearby woodland in Slovakia. We do not visit this area every year, just in certain years if owl breeding is at its height. Reaching Rejdova village. we had a Black Stork circling above us. In the mixed spruce and beech forest we visited a Tengmalm’s Owl nest box where we had great views of the female bird. We saw other higher elevation birds here such as Firecrest, Crested Tit, Eurasian Siskin and Common Crossbill. After having our picnic lunch we looked for Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker and Eurasian Pygmy Owl. The woodpecker did not show up but we had an excellent look at a performing male owl. On the way back we stopped at Hejce in the Northern Zemplén but woodpeckers were not active. Late afternoon we visited a scrubby area around Tokaj where we managed to see at least three Corncrakes in flight and heard singing River Warblers to finish this exciting day. At dinner we tasted the famous Tokaj wine again, amongst which the "5 puttony" Tokaji Aszú made this region well-known several hundreds of years ago. Before Breakfast the following day we did some birdwatching at Tokaj fishponds. We had our first waterbirds of the trip including at least 11 Ferruginous Ducks with a flock of Common Pochards. We saw Eurasian Golden Orioles, Red-backed Shrikes and Eurasian Wrynecks. After breakfast we visited the Száva Valley in the Eastern Zemplén. As we entered the beech and hornbeam forest we scoped a Wood Warbler. After a little while we arrived at a nice oak woodland where we taped a gorgeous male Black Woodpecker. The bird flew over us and landed in full view. As we were watching the Black Woodpecker a male Middle Spotted Woodpecker arrived at the scene too. We had prolonged views of both. About fifty meters further we met a lovely male White-backed Woodpecker, which disappeared after a very short time among the magnificent trees. It did keep drumming a bit further on, though. Soon we were watching a male White-backed Woodpecker feeding on the ground alongside Great Spotted Woodpecker. A male Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and Collared Flycatchers were seen on the way back. After having our packed lunch we managed to see a singing River Warbler and a female Eurasian Eagle Owl on our way to Komlóska. We had more Black and Great Spotted Woodpeckers but added nothing new to our list. We tried a Grey-headed Woodpecker territory later in the afternoon at Selymes Tanya without success. Then we drove to a raptor watch point where we had a pleasant surprise in the form of a rufous morph Booted Eagle and a Eurasian Hobby just flew over before the shower arrived. We had dinner and went out for Eurasian Nightjar at dusk. We soon found out, however, that during this unusually cold spring they had yet not arrived. Next morning before breakfast we went to Erdőbénye in the hope of finding some raptors but the weather was not favourable. Despite the rain we had a male Grey-headed Woodpecker drumming and calling just 20 metres away and some ‘white-headed’ Long-tailed Tits feeding around us. Woodlarks and Barred Warblers were singing too. After breakfast we drove to the Romanian border stopping briefly at Újfehértó where we had at least four Greater Short-toed Larks which is a highly localised bird in the Carpathians. We crossed the Hungarian-Romanian border within half an hour. In Transylvania our first stop was the reservoir near Alesd, where we saw Garganeys, Little Gulls, Whitewinged Terns, Black-necked Grebes, Common Sandpipers and a surprisingly late Velvet Scoter. On the bushes on the bank two or three male Ortolan Buntings were singing close to us. In the afternoon we arrived at Turda Gorge, where we had a Golden Eagle and Wood Larks plus two Alpine Swifts flying around us. In the evening we arrived in Torockó (Rimetea), where we spent a night. The windows of the houses we stayed in looked out on limestone walls near the settlement. After a dinner of local specialities, we did some owling. We heard two Corncrakes and at least ten different European Scops Owls, but it took some time to track one down. 2 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

Next morning we went up to the bare rocks before breakfast, where 3 male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrushes were singing. We could also observe two singing male Rock Buntings from a distance. Wood Larks were singing everywhere in the area and we scoped one of them. After breakfast we left for Székelyudvarhely (Odorheiu Secuiesc) but did some birding in the Nagy-Havas Mountain at 1600 metres, where we had a male Ring Ouzel, at least 3 different Spotted Nutcrackers, Crested Tit and both Common and Black Redstarts. We had our packed lunch near Ákosfalva with Lesser Spotted Eagle and Common Buzzards in the sky. Then we drove to Segesvár (Sighisoara), and visited the Dracula Pub, which was located in the house where Dracula spent 5 years in his youth. We arrived at our three-star hotel in Székelyudvarhely at 1700 and soon after we left for the bear hide. Near the hide a mother bear came out to the meadow with its two one year old cubs and at least 6 more bears appeared while it was still daylight. A hunting Red Fox were seen too. Our happy group had a substantial dinner in the hotel. After a very early wake-up (0130!), we drove to Balánbánya in the Hagymás Mountain. Still in darkness, Sándor, our local guide, helped us reach the top of Nagy-Hagymás, one of the Western Capercaillie’s lekking grounds. On the way up a Eurasian Woodcock was performing his display flight. We arrived at dawn and we had several brief views of at least three or four male capercaillies. Bev found a White-throated Dipper and several Grey Wagtails on the stream nearby. After our packed breakfast we drove back to the hotel for a short rest. After lunch we drove to Hargita Mountain where we were birding in the clouds. The absolute highlight of the afternoon was two female capercaillies feeding along the dirt track which we could watch for some minutes. The birds were just 25 metres away for about 10 minutes until they walked and flew off into the depths of the forest. As we drove further up we realised the higher parts still had thick snow cover so we physically could not reach the Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker’s territory. Another male capercaillie was flushed from a spruce by János and some high elevation passerines were seen. We had a blueberry brandy and tea at the top of the mountain to warm up. Late afternoon we drove to an alpine meadow where despite the strong wind we had Water Pipit and a male Ring Ouzel. On the next day we left for Békás (Bicaz) Gorge after breakfast. On the way we stopped briefly in a nearby quarry where a gorgeous male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush showed very well. We had a little stroll around Szenéte Tanya for possible Common Rosefinches but they were not yet back. We had a nicely perched Great Grey Shrike and several Tree Pipits, though. After about an hour’s drive we arrived at Békás (Bicaz) gorge. We found an immature Wallcreeper after only a few minute search and this was followed by two more pairs, so we had not less than 5 Wallcreepers in total! They stayed on the rock face busily feeding and chasing each other around. We could watch them as long as we wanted, while above the gorge Alpine and Common Swifts swept through the air. We had our packed lunch in a nice valley on the way back, where we watched 4 Lesser Spotted Eagles and Shorttoed Eagle hunting. In the afternoon we drove towards the summit of the Magashegy in the hope of flushing Hazel Grouse, but although we failed in this we did have a Black Stork and a male European Green Woodpecker. Late afternoon we visited the only fishponds in the region, where besides the common waders we saw 9 Black Storks, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Little Owl, Little Gull, Black and Whiskered Terns, Great Reed Warbler and different forms of Yellow Wagtail. After breakfast we started our return journey to Hungary. We drove along the Küküllő River Valley where we had a brilliant European Roller and several Wood Larks on the roadside wires. We spent some time at Remete Gorge around noon. János found a Eurasian Craig Martin but then we could not see it for a while. Later Bev relocated a whole flock of them feeding above a woodland next to a steep cliff face. This gorge is the only reliable place in the Carpathian Basin to see this southern species. On the way back we had a pale European Honey Buzzard at Kolozsvár (Cluj). At 4 pm we crossed the border and drove to a nearby wetland at Földes to start our wetland birding proper. Here we had Red-necked Grebe, Black-necked Grebe, Eurasian Spoonbills, Ferruginous Ducks, Blackwinged stilts, Pied Avocets and all three marsh terns. We finished the day at a colony of Red-footed 3 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

Falcons. Male and female birds were flying around us and we had excellent views of both sexes through the scope. Finally we arrived at Trófea Lodge, where we were to spent our last four nights. Prior to breakfast we did some birding in the lodge garden. We had a male Little Bittern in the scope, European Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, Eurasian Golden Orioles, Common Cuckoos and several singing Common Nightingales. After breakfast we visited the Hortobágy Fishponds. Soon after climbing up the first tower we had Pygmy Cormorants and then Bev’s 5000th species: a Bearded Reedling. Waders, wildfowl and herons could be seen everywhere, the reed beds were alive with singing Acrocephalus and Savi’s Warblers. Herons, spoonbills, ducks, geese and waders fed on the lakes and we also found not less than 12 Mediterranean Gulls, three Red-crested Pochards, a male Common Goldeneye, Bluethroats and a European Penduline Tit at its nest. We tried to see a calling Little Crake but only John had some brief glimpses. We had lunch at the main Hortobágy Csárda. In the afternoon we checked two drained fishponds, where we could observe many waders like Grey (or Black-bellied) Plovers, Black-tailed Godwits, Ruffs and Little Stints. Later in the afternoon, with the help of Dr. Gábor Kovács, a local expert, we watched birds on the Nagyiváni-puszta, where we found 6 Great Bustards from a reasonable distance and nearby a hunting male Montagu's Harrier. After a short drive we arrived at an endless meadow, where at least 3 male Aquatic Warblers were singing. It took some time to find one on the top of the dead Rumex stems but then it gave excellent prolonged views. These last two lifers put John very close to his 5000th species too so we drove to an area for Saker. On the way we had flight views of Great Bustard. Closing the day we watched a male and a female Saker perching as well as in flight. So John’s 5000th species was Hungary’s national bird: the Saker. It was an unforgettable day! Following an early breakfast, our next day started at the beautiful Angyalháza-puszta (=‘Angel House’ puszta), an area of untouched short grassland almost silent except for the sound of sheep bells. Here we saw a Stone-curlew. Later in the morning we visited the newly restored wetland at Nagy-Vókonya where we saw grebes, ducks and waders. We had great views of a singing male European Grasshopper Warbler, a male Eurasian Teal and a pair of White-tailed Eagles as they were thermalling up to a great height. By the best raptor time we were at Darassa in the Northern section of the National Park. A fine male Long-legged Buzzard circled up in front of us then gave an excellent display performance. This was followed by a female Saker a bit further on. We also visited a Long-eared Owl nest where we found the guarding male nearby. We finished this bird-packed morning at the Tiszacsege Halászcsárda. In the afternoon we visited Hortobágy Fishpond again and found not less than 39 Temminck’s Stints and two Whimbrels on the mudflats, and while John was photographing a male Bluethroat, Bev found a summer-plumaged Red-throated Pipit feeding by a muddy pool. We visited two more drained fishponds and added some more waders to the list like Common Ringed Plover, Eurasian Curlew and Spotted Redshank. Late afternoon we went to Zám marshes. We soon were watching a singing Moustached Warbler and a male Little Crake crept into view, not to mention the two Great Bitterns creeping through the Typha vegetation before they both took off. Before dinner we checked Akadémia-Fishponds where we had Squacco Herons, Common Shelducks, three summer-plumaged Sanderlings, a Curlew Sandpiper and Little Gulls. We had dinner in the Hortobágy Csárda and soon after we drove to a wetland where Spotted Crakes sometimes occur. We arrived with perfect timing at dusk but no crakes were calling. On our last full birding day we drove to Földes wetland in the hope of finding Glossy Ibis. En route we had excellent views of a female Saker perching on a nearby pylon and a whole selection of summer plumaged waders, such as Common Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper and Little Stint, at Hajdúszoboszló. John and Bev had a Great Bittern at Földes along with a lot of grebes, herons, ducks and waders. We added Marsh Warbler to the list and enjoyed excellent views of Penduline Tits at the nest. We had lunch in Debrecen Leveles Csárda then visited Debrecen Great Wood where we had good views of Short-toed Treecreeper. Our next stop was at Balvazújváros at a Syrian Woodpecker nest hole. The male bird came out and after a little hesitation the female took her turn at incubation. Very good views! At Virágoskúti Fishponds we could study the difference between 4 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

Yellow-legged Gulls and Caspian Gulls of every kind of age, plus we found two Lesser Black-backed Gulls amongst them. One of them seemed to be the race graellsii, which would only be the second record for the Hortobágy. Dinner featured some excellent local brandy. On the last morning we went birding at Akadémia Fishponds again and visited Derzsi Fishponds where finally got the Glossy Ibis as one bird flew over us. We saw several Bearded Reedlings here too. We had about a four-hour drive to Budapest, but we stopped near Karcag on the way in the hope of finding some Collared Pratincoles. Eventually we had good looks of two birds before they flew off. The pratincole was the last new species of this successful 12-day birding trip.

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SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: We had 5 in the Földes wetland and 2 in the Hortobágy. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus: It was common at the fishponds in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. A maximum of 60 individual was seen one day. Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena: We saw one pair at the Földes wetland and three were seen well at the Hortobágy fishponds. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis: A few were seen in the Földes wetland and in Hungary at the fishponds. PHALACROCORACIDAE Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Up to 150 were in the colony in Bodrog-zug near Tokaj and every day we saw around 100 in the Hortobágy. Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus: Every day 15-20 individuals were seen at the Hortobágy fishponds. ARDEIDAE Great Bittern Botaurus stellaris: Heard at the wetland at Földes and at the Hortobágy fishponds and marshlands. Two were seen well at Zám marsh both on the ground and in flight. One was seen at Földes as well. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: One male was seen perfectly at Trófea Hunting Lodge near Nádudvar. Black-crowned Night Heron: Nycticorax nycticorax: One was seen in Transylvania and small flocks were recorded daily in the Hortobágy. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: 3-5 individuals were seen every day in the Hortobágy fishponds. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: 2-4 were seen in the Hortobágy on most days. Great Egret Egretta alba: It was very common everywhere in Hungary at the wetlands. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: 5-20 were seen on most days in the Hortobágy and some in Transylvania. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Up to 10 were seen daily in the Hortobágy and 3 in Transylvania. CICONIIDAE Black Stork Ciconia nigra: 10 were seen in Transylvania at Szentpál (Saintpaul) fishponds and singles in the Zemplén Hills. White Stork Ciconia ciconia: Still a very common breeder in villages in Transylvania and Hungary. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: Finally one was seen on our last day at Derzsi fishpond in the Hortobágy. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: We saw small flocks in the Hortobágy every day. ANATIDAE Mute Swan Cygnus olor: Up to 31 were seen in the Hortobágy. Greylag Goose Anser anser: One over the Bodrog-zug and 300-500 seen daily in the Hortobágy. Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna: We saw a male at Földes wetland and up to 3 were at Akadémia Fishponds on three occasions in the Hortobágy. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: A few were seen at the Hortobágy fishponds. Gadwall Anas strepera: Up to 35 were seen at the Hortobágy fishponds. 6 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: Single males were at Hajdúszoboszló fishpond and one at Nagy-Vókonya wetland in the Hortobágy. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: It was very common in Transylvania and Hungary. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: A pair was seen at the Hortobágy fishponds. Garganey Anas querquedula: Small numbers recorded in Transylvania and in Hungary too. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: Small numbers recorded in Transylvania and in Hungary too. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: We had 57 at the Tokaj fishponds and it was common in the Hortobágy. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca: We saw the first 11 birds of this globally threatened species at the Tokaj fishponds and around 10-30 daily in the Hortobágy. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula: Two pairs were seen at Élesd (Alesd) reservoir in Transylvania. Velvet Scoter Melanitta fusca: One immature was seen at Élesd (Alesd) reservoir in Transylvania. Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula: One adult male was seen at the Hortobágy fishponds on the 10th of May. ACCIPITRIDAE White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla: 2 adult were seen in the Hortobágy. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus: We had a distant view of one bird in Transylvania. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Small numbers were seen in Transylvania and it was very common in Hungary, especially in the Hortobágy where the daily maximum number was 50 individuals. Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus: Four were seen in the Hortobágy. Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis: One was seen briefly at Rejdova wood in the Carpathians. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Two were seen in the Zemplén and one in Transylvania. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: It was very common in Transylvania and in Hungary. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: We saw 1 displaying individual in the Hortobágy. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina: 2 were seen in Zemplén, 5 in Transylvania and one in the Hortobágy. Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca: We recorded a single adult on our first day near Heves. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos: One adult was seen in Transylvania. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: A rufous morph adult turned up in the Zemplén. FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Fairly common in Transylvania and in Hungary. Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus: Up to 20 were seen in the Hortobágy every day. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo: One was recorded in the Zemplén and one in the Hortobágy. Saker Falco cherrug: We saw a pair and two single females in the Hortobágy. This was John’s 5000th species! TETRAONIDAE Hazel Grouse Bonasa bonasia: One was flushed on Hargita Mountain, but seen only briefly. Western Capercaillie Tetrao urogallus: Excellent views of two females on Hargita Mountain in Transylvania. Altogether a minimum of 8 birds was recorded. PHASIANIDAE Common Quail Coturnix coturnix: We had one in flight near Nagyiván in the Hortobágy. Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus: Common in Hungary and in Transylvania. RALLIDAE Water Rail Rallus aquaticus: Heard in the Hortobágy, and one was seen by Bev at Földes wetland. Little Crake Porzana parva: Two males were seen in the Hortobágy, one at Zám marshes performed well and another briefly seen by John at the Hortobágy fishponds.

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Corn Crake Crex crex: Three were seen in the Zemplén and another was seen at Torockó in the dark. Several heard in Transylvania. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Two were seen in Transylvania at Szentpál (Saintpaul) fishponds. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra: Common in Transylvania and in Hungary. GRUIDAE Common Crane Grus grus: A maximum of 55 over-summering birds was recorded in the Hortobágy. OTIDIDAE Great Bustard Otis tarda: 7 males were seen on the Nagyiváni-puszta, Hortobágy (one of which was also seen in flight). RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: We saw about 80 at the Földes wetland and some in the Hortobágy. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: A maximum of 80 in the Hortobágy. BURHINIDAE Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus: We had one at Angyalháza-puszta in the Hortobágy, on its original breeding ground. GLAREOLIDAE Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola: We had two birds near Karcag on agricultural land. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Heard in Transylvania and singles were seen in the Hortobágy. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula: 2 were in the Hortobágy and 17 at Hajdúszoboszló fishponds. All of them belonged to the tundrae subspecies. Grey (or Black-bellied) Plover Pluvialis squatarola: A maximum 8 were seen on the drained fishponds in the Hortobágy. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: Fairly common near the wetlands and grasslands in Hungary and Transylvania. SCOLOPACIDAE Sanderling Calidris alba: Three were seen in the Hortobágy. Little Stint Calidris minuta: A maximum of 20 were seen in the Hortobágy and at Hajdúszoboszló. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii: An exceptional flock of 39 was seen in the Hortobágy. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: A maximum of 10 were in the Hortobágy on the drained fishponds. Dunlin Calidris alpina: It was fairly common in the Hortobágy with a maximum of 270 at NagyVókonya. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: 50-80 were seen in daily in the Hortobágy. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: 2 were seen displaying on the Nagy-Vókonya reconstructed wetland in the Hortobágy. Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola: 1 calling individual was recorded at dawn on the Hagymás Mountain in Transylvania. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: It was fairly common in the Hortobágy. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Two were at the Hortobágy fishponds. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: A maximum of 80 were at the Hortobágy fishponds. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: Up to 10 were seen at the Földes wetland and up to 30 at the Hortobágy fishponds. 8 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

Common Redshank Tringa totanus: We saw it in small numbers in the Hortobágy. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Just a few were seen in the Hortobágy. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Big flocks of 30-80 were seen in the Hortobágy. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: A few were seen in Transylvania and in Hungary. LARIDAE Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus: 12 birds were seen on the breeding island at the Hortobágy fishponds. Little Gull Larus minutus: We had flocks of 3-28 at the Hortobágy fishponds. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus: Common, mainly in the Hortobágy. Common Gull Larus canus: Four were seen at the Hortobágy fishponds. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus: Two were seen at the Virágoskúti fishponds and one at the Derzsi fishponds in the Hortobágy. One of the Virágoskuti birds seemed to be the L. f. graellsii subspecies, which is a great rarity. Caspian (or Steppe Gull Larus cachinnans: Up to 120 a day in the Hortobágy, where we could study its identification. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis: Less numerous than Caspian Gull in the Hortobágy and one in Transylvania. STERNIDAE Common Tern Sterna hirundo: Two were seen at Élesd (Alesd), and up to 75 at the Hortobágy fishponds. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: More then 100 daily in the Hortobágy. Black Tern Chlidonias niger: We had 135 at Élesd (Alesd) in Transylvania and up to 150 in the Hortobágy. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: Present in small numbers in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Common. Stock Dove Columba oenas: 8 were seen in the Zemplén. Common Woodpigeon Columba palumbus: Fairly common in Transylvania and in Hungary. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: Very common in the villages. European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: Fairly common in Hungary, and in Transylvania as well. CUCULIDAE Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus: Common around the fishponds, with 16-20 daily in the Hortobágy. STRIGIDAE European Scops Owl Otus scops: 1 was seen at Torockó in Transylvania where up to ten were calling. Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo: A female and her 2 chicks were seen on our first day in the Zemplén. Two juveniles were seen the next day in Tokaj and another female on our last day in the Zemplén. Little Owl Athene noctua: One was seen in Transylvania and up to 4 daily in the Hortobágy. Ural Owl Strix uralensis: One female and two chicks were seen well in the Zemplén on our first day. Long-eared Owl Asio otus: 3 were seen in the Hortobágy. Tengmalm’s (or Boreal) Owl Aegolius funereus: A female was seen at Rejdova Forest, Slovakia, looking out of a nest box. Eurasian Pygmy Owl Glaucidium passerinum: A very aggressive male was whistled into view at Rejdova in Slovakia.

9 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

APODIDAE Common Swift Apus apus: A few were seen in Debrecen and in the Hortobágy. Alpine Swift Apus melba: Altogether 14 were seen at Torda (Turda) Gorge and at Békás (Bicaz) Gorge in Transylvania. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher: One was heard at Bodrog-zug. CORACIIDAE European Roller Coracias garrulus: A newly arrived bird was seen near Nagykapus (Copsa Mica) in Transylvania. UPUPIDAE Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops: Two were seen daily in the Hortobágy. PICIDAE Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla: At least 14 were recorded in the Zemplén. Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus: A fine male was seen in the Zemplén. European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis: One male was seen in Transylvania. Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius: We saw two in the Zemplén and one in the Hortobágy. Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major: Just a few were seen in the woods in Hungary and Transylvania. Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus: A pair was seen at the nest in Balmazújváros, Hortobágy. Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius: Four were seen in the Zemplén. White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos: Two different males were seen well in the Zemplén. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor: A male was seen in the Zemplén. ALAUDIDAE Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: 4 were seen at Újfehértó. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: Small numbers were seen in Hungary and in Transylvania. Wood Lark Lullula arborea: Up to 3 were seen at Torockó (Rimetea) and some more in other places in Transylvania. Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis: Common, especially in the Hortobágy. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Big numbers around the fishponds in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. Crag Martin Hirundo rupestris: 8 of these highly localised and rare breeders at Remete (Rimetea) gorge in Transylvania. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Very common, with huge flocks in Hungary. Common House Martin Delichon urbica: Very common, again with huge flocks in Hungary. MOTACILLIDAE Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: Three were seen in the Hortobágy. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: Seen in the Zemplén and in Transylvania. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: Excellent views of one at the Hortobágy fishponds found by Bev. Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta: One summer plumaged bird was seen at high elevation on Hargita Mountain in Transylvania. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava: The nominate race is common in Transylvania and in Hungary. On the Szentpál (Saintpaul) fishponds we saw the thunbergi and dombrowski forms too. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: We saw a female in the Zemplén and up to 20 in Transylvania. It was especially common at Remete (Rimetea) Gorge. White Wagtail Motacilla alba: Fairly common in Transylvania and in Hungary. 10 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

CINCLIDAE White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus: 5 were seen in the Carpathians. TROGLODYTIDAE Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes: Seen on two days in the Zemplén. PRUNELLIDAE Dunnock Prunella modularis: Heard and seen in Zemplén and in the Carpathians. TURDIDAE European Robin Erithacus rubecula: Heard and seen in Zemplén and in the Carpathians. Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos: Common in Hungary. Heard daily and seen once or twice. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: At least 15 were recorded in the Hortobágy. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: We saw it in small numbers in Hungary and in Transylvania. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus: A pair was seen at Bihar Mountain and one at Hargita Mountain in Transylvania. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra: It was seen in small numbers in Hungary and in Transylvania. Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata: Fairly common in Hungary and in Transylvania. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: A few were seen in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis: 4 males were seen at Torockó and we enjoyed awesome views of a male in the Hargita Mountain in Transylvania. Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus: A male was seen at Bihar Mountain and another male at the top of the Hargita Mountain in Transylvania. Common Blackbird Turdus merula: Fairly common in Hungary and in Transylvania, rare in the Hortobágy. Fieldfare Turdus pilaris: A few breeding pairs in Transylvania. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos: Fairly common in Zemplén and in the Carpathians. Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus: Rare in Zemplén, but more common at higher elevations in the Carpathians. SYLVIIDAE Common Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia: One singing male was seen very well near NagyVókonya in the Hortobágy. River Warbler Locustella fluviatilis: Heard in the Zemplén daily and we saw one singing male in the middle of a tangled bush. Savi's Warbler Locustella luscinioides: Common in the Hortobágy, especially at the Hortobágy fishponds. A maximum 10 individuals was seen a day. Aquatic Warbler Acrocephalus paludicola: Excellent prolonged view of a singing male was on the Nagyiváni-puszta in the Hortobágy. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus: Very common in the Hortobágy. Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris: We recorded one in the Hortobágy and two at the Földes wetland. European Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus: Common in the Hortobágy with a maximum of 50 daily. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus: Also quite common in the Hortobágy with up to 15-50 daily. Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina: One heard in the Zemplén which showed only briefly. John saw a singing male in the Hortobágy. Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria: At least 30 were recorded in the Zemplén. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: A few were seen at Tokaj quarry in the Zemplén and more heard everywhere in Hungary and in Transylvania. 11 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis: We saw them regularly in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla: Fairly common in the Zemplén and in Transylvania. Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix: Fairly common in the beech woods of the Zemplén. Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita: Fairly common, but mainly heard. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus: A few, mainly in the Carpathians. Goldcrest Regulus regulus: Fairly common in the Carpathians, a few in the Zemplén. Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus: We heard several and saw two very well at Rejdova in Slovakia. MUSCICAPIDAE Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: We saw a minimum of 5 in our hotel garden in the Hortobágy. Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis: We recorded at least 4 males in the Zemplén. European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca: We saw two in our hotel garden in the Hortobágy. TIMALIIDAE Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus: Fairly common in the Hortobágy. This was Bev’s 5000th species! AEGITHALIDAE Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus: We had four in the Zemplén. PARIDAE Marsh Tit Parus palustris: A few recorded in the Zemplén and in Debrecen Great Wood. Willow Tit Parus montanus: We saw 8 in the Carpathians, mainly at Rejdova wood. Crested Tit Parus cristatus: We had several great views of this magnificent little gem, mainly at higher elevations. Coal Tit Parus ater: Fairly common in the Zemplén and in the Carpathians. Blue Tit Parus caeruleus: We saw a few in the Zemplén, at Debrecen Great Wood and in the hotel garden in the Hortobágy. Great Tit Parus major: Common in Hungary and in Transylvania. SITTIDAE Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea: Common in the Zemplén and in Debrecen Great Wood. TICHODROMADIDAE Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria: We saw a total of 5 of these stunning birds at Békás (Bicaz) Gorge. An immature with a not entirely black throat and two pairs gave very good views as they were chasing each other and displaying on the rock face. CERTHIIDAE Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris: Heard several times and we saw one in the Zemplén. Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla: Two birds were seen in Debrecen Great Wood. REMIZIDAE Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus: Fairly common in the Hortobágy, and two were building a nest near the Földes wetland. ORIOLIDAE Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus: Fairly common in the Zemplén and in the Hortobágy. Every morning we had several singing males from our hotel window in the Hortobágy.

12 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004

LANIIDAE Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio: We had some in Transylvania though it was common in the Zemplén and in the Hortobágy. Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor: Two were seen in Transylvania and up to 10 daily in the Hortobágy. Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor: Two were seen in Transylvania, on their breeding grounds. CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: Fairly common in Zemplén and in the Carpathians. Eurasian (or Common) Magpie Pica pica: Common everywhere. Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes: Altogether 5 were seen in the Carpathians. Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula: Very common in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. Rook Corvus frugilegus: Very common in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. Hooded Crow Corvus corone: Very common in Transylvania and in the Hortobágy. Common Raven Corvus corax: A maximum of 6 was seen in the Zemplén, and up to 14 in the Carpathians. STURNIDAE Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris: Very common everywhere. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Very common everywhere. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Common, especially in the Zemplén and in the Hortobágy. FRINGILLIDAE Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs: Very common. European Serin Serinus serinus: Fairly common in the Zemplén, seen in the Hortobágy and Transylvania too. European Green Finch Carduelis chloris: Very common. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis: Very common. Eurasian Siskin Carduelis spinus: 14 were seen in Rejdova wood in the Carpathians. Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina: Fairly common in Transylvania, seen in the Zemplén and scarce in the Hortobágy. Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra: 9 were seen in the Carpathians. Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes: Common in the Zemplén. EMBERIZIDAE Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella: Fairly common in the Zemplén, in Transylvania and in Debrecen Great Wood. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia: Three singing males were seen at Torockó (Rimetea) in Transylvania. Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana: At least 2 were seen at Élesd (Alesd) in Transylvania. Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus: Fairly common in the Hortobágy and a few were seen in Transylvania on the fishponds. Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra: Fairly common in Hungary and in Transylvania.

MAMMALS Red Fox Vulpes vulpes: Only one was seen in Transylvania. Brown Bear Ursus arctos: Altogether 9 were seen in Transylvania. Western Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus: Seen almost every day in Hungary and in Transylvania. European Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris: 4 were seen in the Zemplén and 1 in Transylvania. European Souslik Spermophilus citellus: Only 1 was seen in the Hortobágy at Hajdúszoboszló airport. Brown Hare Lepus europaeus: Seen almost every day in Hungary and in Transylvania. 13 Birdquest: Hungary & Transylvania 2004