Tunisia Naturetrek Tour Report

17 - 25 March 2013

Addax

Desert Sparrow

Carthage

Moussier's Redstart

Report and images by Geoff Carr

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill

Cheriton

Alresford

Hampshire

SO24 0NG

T: +44 (0)1962 733051

F: +44 (0)1962 736426

E: [email protected]

W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

England

Tour Report

Tunisia

Tour Leaders:

Geoff Carr Amine Zorgati Hedi Dmittri

Tour Group

Barry Smithson

Naturetrek Local Guide Driver

John Plested Paul Markley Edie Trimmer June Ford John Ford Andrew Keeble Christine Burden

Day 1

Sunday 17th March

Gatwick to Tunis to Bizerte Cloud, showers and a light northerly wind – 15 degrees C Some clients met up with each other at London Gatwick check-in or at the departure gate for the BA flight and at 1330 we were on our way to Tunisia and the start of the trip. After a good flight we landed at Tunis airport and were met by the remainder of the clients, Amine, the local guide and Hedi the bus driver. We changed money to Tunisian dinar and then we were soon on our way in the fading light to our first night accommodation at Bizerte which we reached after a drive of just over one hour from the airport. After checking in we met for drinks and dinner at 2000 and then by 2130 most people retired to bed after a rather long day.

Day 2

Monday 18th March

Bizerte and Lake Ichkeul Sunny but with some cloud and a light westerly wind – 22 degrees C We awoke to a fine, sunny morning with Common Bulbul singing in nearby trees and lots of House Martins flying around the hotel establishing territories and nest sites. Most of the group members were up for prebreakfast birding around the grounds of the hotel and finding Sardinian Warbler, Spanish Sparrow, Mediterranean Gulls and a Montague’s Harrier as starters. After breakfast we were away from the hotel at a leisurely 0830 and heading north towards Lake Ichkeul, a famous migration hot-spot in Tunisia. En route we called at a supermarket to buy food for the day’s picnic. After a journey of about one hour we reached the lake and surrounding farmland with fields of cereal and beans. First we visited the barrage which separates the salt water of the sea from the fresh water main lake and here we had singing Cetti’s Warbler, Common Sandpipers, Hoopoe, Alpine Swifts and a flock of Spanish Sparrow. We drove around the lake anti-clockwise stopping a number time to look at Long-legged Buzzard, Marsh Harrier, Shorttoed Eagle, Grey and Woodchat Shrikes and Yellow Wagtail of a couple of races (cinereocapilla and iberiae). There was a large Barn Swallow and Common Swift migration over and around the lake.

© Naturetrek

April 13

1

Tunisia

Tour Report

We drove further around the lake and then on a road across wet farmland towards the base of Mount Ichkeul where we found a level platform on a rock and here we had a picnic overlooking the lake and surrounding habitat. This year there had been a lot of rainfall a few weeks ago and the lake level was very high and after our picnic we had to turn back on the agricultural road as this was impassable. We drove around the lake further and into the Ichkuel National Park. Here we stopped to view over the lake with an Osprey being a good sighting as it caught a large fish. A couple of Blue Rock Thrush was looking down on us from the rocks and a mixture of Wigeon, Pintail and Teal out on the water. From here we drove back to Bizerte and back at the hotel for 1730 and had a half hour birding with a few Cory’s Shearwaters out at sea and Mediterranean Gulls passing by. We met for drinks at 1900 and to complete the day’s bird-list then our evening meal.

Day 3

Tuesday 19th March

Bizerte to Chilba and Lebna Barrage, Korba lagoon and Korba Sunny with a light SE wind 22 degrees C We had breakfast at 0700 then away at 0800 on the bus south to get around Tunis city before the morning rushhour. We travelled around Tunis and on the way out of the city stopped at a supermarket to buy food for the next two day’s picnics. From here we drove on towards Cap Bon with a stop overlooking farmland where we had lots of migrating Common Crane and White Stork, Short-toed Eagle over and Crested Lark on the farmland. Just as we thought about departing a Black-winged Kite appeared from nowhere and we all had really good fairly close views of this raptor hovering for lizards. The Chilba Barrage had high water levels and water birds were abundant. We had our picnic lunch near the lakeside on the old road and from here had Marsh Harrier, Yellow Wagtails, Temminck’s Stints, Green Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank, Lapwing, Spoonbill and a Wryneck giving close views for everyone. After the picnic we drove on and then to the outlet of the Lebna Barrage and had Sedge Warblers, Chiffchaff, Glossy Ibis, Moorhen and a distant Black-winged Kite. On then from here to the coast and the next stop at Korba Lagoons which was a large area of shallow, saline lakes with lots of birds. Here we had Greater Flamingo, Marsh Harrier, Teal, Marbled Duck, Garganey, Blackwinged Stilt, Slender-billed Gull and at least 3 races of Yellow Wagtail. After all this excitement of large numbers of birds we drove to our accommodation at the Africa Jade Thalasso Hotel. Really nice, 4 star and beside the sea. We met later to complete the day’s birds list and then to have dinner with a fantastic, varied buffet before turning in for bed after a long but rewarding day.

Day 4

Wednesday 20th March

Korba, Cap Bon, Kerkouane, Kelibia and Korba Sunny, cloud and a late shower with the wind E and 22°C Some people were up at 0700 for a short birding walk around the hotel grounds and views out to sea and had Gannet, Sandwich Tern, Laughing Dove, Great Grey Shrike, Common Swift and a number of Chiffchaff.

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© Naturetrek

April 13

Tunisia

Tour Report

After an excellent varied buffet breakfast we left the hotel at 0830 for Cap Bon which is a migration hot-spot. A quick stop to overlook Korba Lagoons where we had up to 300 Greater Flamingos floating and up-ending like duck to feed under the surface and paddling along with long, ungainly legs. We picked up food for the picnic in a small town on the way and drove straight to Cap Bon and right up to the top to the transmitter station. Here we had Moussier’s Redstart, Blue Rock Thrush, Thekla Lark and a number of Marsh Harrier drifting around. It was clear weather on the top and offered really good views all around but a strong east wind, not ideal for migration. Nevertheless, we soon witnessed the start of some migration with Marsh Harrier, Long-legged Buzzard, Black Kite, Montague’s Harrier, and the sight of 37 Common Cranes on a thermal, calling and then flying off towards Sicily and then on to their breeding grounds in Northern Europe. We descended in the bus and found a sheltered picnic spot with a view of other migrants heading to the summit. After lunch we visited the Carthaginian ruins at Kerkouane which was very interesting and extensive with a backdrop of the sea beyond. The ruins had been uncovered and preserved but not rebuilt at any height above 2-3 metres which gave a splendid overview of the whole area. Various houses were showing structural detail right down to the stone bath-tubs. Lots of Common Swift, Swallow and House Martin were passing north. We left here and then drove to Kelibia Castle with its layered history of Carthaginian, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, French and Germans during the Second World War. The castle walls had been rebuilt but the interior had work to be done in many parts but never the less, was very impressive in its current state. Here, during a short shower, we had a number of Pallid Swift, Common Swift, Little Swift, Black Redstart and another large passage of Cory’s Shearwater out at sea. From here we had a quick visit to a shallow lake near the town of Kelibia where we had Common Snipe, Black-winged Stilt and a lone male Garganey. From here we then drove back to the hotel at Korba and enjoyed the usual drinks and bird list before our evening dinner.

Day 5

Thursday 21st March

Korba to Jedidi Lake, El Jem and Mahres Sunny with a strong northerly wind and 23°C Another excellent breakfast at 0700 then we checked out at 0800 and drove south for about one hour and stopped at Jedidi Lake to look for both resident and migrant birds. This is a large lake with some reeds and is an attraction to migratory birds being on the edge of a dry, arid area with a backdrop of rugged hills. We were lucky and found 2 White-headed Ducks in the centre of the lake and everyone had good but distant views. Other birds included Shoveler, Pintail, Garganey, Little Stint, Marsh Sandpiper and Alpine Swift as the highlights. From here we departed south and reached El Jem at 1315 where we had had a three course lunch in a restaurant close to the amphitheatre. After lunch we visited the amphitheatre and walked all around the impressive structure and one of the best preserved in North Africa. It was quite hot as we walked around the structure and much of it restored to its former glory. From here we had a short drive through town to the nearby Mosaic Museum in El Jem which was just as impressive as the amphitheatre with many preserved mosaics recreated around the walls and depicting past scenes from Roman times. We left the museum about 1620 and drove through a landscape of endless Olive Groves to reach Mahres at 1800 and the Tamaris Hotel beside the sea.

© Naturetrek

April 13

3

Tunisia

Tour Report

After checking in at the hotel we had a quick bird-watch on the shore-line and had Grey Plover, Common Sandpiper and Redshank. We met later for drinks and an excellent evening meal at 2000.

Day 6

Friday 22nd March

Mahres Harbour, Bouhedma National Park and Douz Sunny with a light north wind and 25°C Up as usual at 0630 and breakfast and at 0730 away in the bus to the harbour at Mahres where we had a mixture of wader and gulls. The low tide in the harbour produced Pintail, Wigeon, Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Bar-tailed Godwit, Greenshank and Caspian Tern. At 0900 we departed from Mahres and drove south then west to the arid area towards the Bouhedma National Park. Just before we reached the park we had Northern Wheatear, Short-toed Lark and Great Grey Shrike. We reached the Bouhedma National Park entrance by 1030, a remnant of the original North African landscape with numerous Acacia trees and depicting a scene of the dry habitats in central Africa. After registering we drove to the central area and then had a short walk through the Acacia scrub and found Dorca’s Gazelle and Oryx. After about one hour we returned to the central area for our picnic under the trees while watching Hoopoe’s chasing around. After eating we boarded the bus and drove through part of the park up to a spring on the hillside. En route we had Barbary Partridge, Desert Wheatear, Northern Wheatear and a Roller. When we reached the spring it was now quite hot and around 30 degrees C with most birds seeking shade but we found Redstart, Black Wheatear, Chiffchaff, and lots of Subalpine Warbler. We left the park at 1530 and drove alongside the inaccessible part of Bouhedma NP where we had 28 Ostrich, 17 Addax and 40+ Oryx. From here then south over a rocky ridge where we found a lone Golden Jackal hunting close to the road, a Scrub Warbler and a couple of Desert Lark. We continued south towards Douz and across the flat salt pan of Chott El Fejaj. We reached Douz at 1900 and checked into the smart hotel there on the edge of the desert.

Day 7

Saturday 23rd March

Douz, Jebil National Park and Douz Sunny with a light north wind and 30°C We awoke to a clear, sunny day and all met for breakfast at 0700 and departed in two 4x4 vehicles for our journey into the desert and to the Jebil National Park. En route we had lots of Hoopoe Larks and had really good fairly close views of males displaying with their backwards loop flight. A café area had Desert Sparrow, White-crowned Wheatear and nearby good views of a Pallid Harrier hunting and killing an unfortunate Subalpine Warbler in the scrub. We also had Long-legged Buzzard, Marsh Harrier, Brown-necked Raven, Woodchat Shrike, Northern Wheatear, Desert Wheatear and a Desert Warbler. At 1100 we reached the Jebil National Park gates and in the entrance had a number of Short-toed Larks, Trumpeter Finch, Temminck’s Horned Lark and a surprise Thick-billed Lark feeding with the other larks. Cream-coloured Coursers were running about nearby on the stone desert and a distant Barbary Falcon was hunting the desert.

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© Naturetrek

April 13

Tunisia

Tour Report

We had our picnic lunch in the shade of the park museum and then ventured out for a short walk to look at Addax and Dorca’s Gazelle. We left the Jebil National Park at about 1400 and drove back while birding en route. It was hot now and most birds were in what little shade could be found but we had another Desert Warbler. We were back at the hotel for 1600 and most people relaxed before meeting later for a drink, completing the bird list and having the evening meal.

Day 8

Sunday 24th March

Douz, Matmata and Jerba Island Sunny with a strong west wind and 33°C We had breakfast at 0730 and left the hotel in the bus at 0830 travelling east towards Matmata and finally Jerba Island. During the morning we stopped a number of times to look at Raven, Desert Wheatear, Red-rumped Wheatear, Short-toed Lark and Desert Lark. It was by now quite hot with a strong wind blowing sand out of the desert and giving the sun a hazy appearance. We reached Matmata at 1200 and had a look in a “Troglodite Cave” before sitting down to eat in the shade of the “cave hotel”. Being Sunday and the Tunisian children’s holiday it was very busy in the town. After the lunch we left Matmata and drove east across dramatic, rocky scenery where we had Black Wheatear and a lone Gundi sitting under a boulder in the shade. We continued on and then descended to the coastline and towards Jerba Island where there was a large queue of traffic waiting to cross to the island on the ferry. We left the bus in the queue and walked onto the ferry then crossed to Jerba and waited there for the bus to come over about one hour later but it was interesting watching people coming and going while studying the plumage variations on Yellowlegged Gulls. From here we drove on to our hotel at Houmt Souk. It was a long day but an interesting landscape.

Day 9

Monday 25th March

Jerba to Tunis to London Sunny and 25°C Breakfast at 0700 and checked out then away to Jerba airport for 0900 and said goodbye to Hedi, the bus driver who was driving back to Tunis, checked in and we were soon away for the one hour flight to Tunis airport. We collected our baggage from the airport and boarded a coach to take us to Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. The weather was cloudy, cool and windy at first as we looked around the ruins at Carthage, the Roman water tanks and the Punic Port. From here we went to a restaurant near Carthage where we had an excellent meal then from here to Sidi Bou Said where we walked around the streets and to the ancient lighthouse. After a coffee/tea we boarded the coach to take us to Tunis airport for our flight to Gatwick at 1945. After checking in and a short wait we were soon away and after a good 3 hour flight landed at Gatwick at 2200. After collecting our baggage we said goodbyes and departed for our various home destinations.

© Naturetrek

April 13

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Tunisia

Tour Report

Acknowledgements Thanks to Amine our local guide who looked after us all and sorted our accommodation and provided information on Tunisia and its history. Thanks to Hedi the bus driver who was very helpful and was so patient when we wanted to stop to look at the birds and to our 4x4 drivers. We had 151 species of birds recorded in a whole range of habitats with both resident and migratory birds which proves this is an important North African birding country. My thanks also go to all the members of the group who contributed in a variety of ways to make this a particularly memorable trip.

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© Naturetrek

April 13

Tunisia

Tour Report

Species Lists Birds ( = recorded but not counted; h = heard only) March Common name

Scientific name

17

18

19

20

1

Ostrich

Struthio camelus

21

2

Great Crested Grebe

Podiceps cristatus

50

6

1

3

Little Grebe

Tachybaptus ruficollis

100

10

25

4

Mediterranean Shearwater

Puffinus yelkouan

5

Cory's Shearwater

Calonectris diomedea

6

Northern Gannet

Morus bassanus

2

10

1

7

Cormorant

Phalacrocorax carbo

2

50

2

30

8

Cattle Egret

Bulbucus ibis

9

Little Egret

Egretta garzetta

10

Great Egret

11 12

22

23

28

1

30+

1000s 70







30





30

Egretta alba

40

2

Grey Heron

Ardea cinerea

20

30

20

White Stork

Ciconia ciconia

60

50

40

13

Glossy Ibis

Plegadis falcinellus

14

Spoonbill

Platalea leucorodia

15

Greater Flamingo

16

Shelduck

17

Gadwall

Anas strepera

18

Mallard

Anas platyrhynchos

200





6

3

19

Pintail

Anas acuta

40

6

1

20

3

20

Shoveler

Anas clypeata

30

21

Wigeon

Anas penelope

10

22

Teal

Anas crecca

23

Garganey

Anus querquedula

24

Marbled Duck

Marmaronetta angustirostris

25

Pochard

Aythya ferina

26

Tufted Duck

Aythya fuligula

27

White-headed Duck

Oxyura leucocephala

28

Osprey

Pandion haliaetus

1

29

Short-toed Eagle

Cicaetus gallicus

10

30

Black Kite

Milvus migrans

31

Black-winged Kite

Elanus caeruleus

32

Montagu's Harrier

Circus pygargus

33

Pallid Harrier

Circus macrourus

34

Marsh Harrier

Circus aeruginosus

20

12

25

35

Long-legged Buzzard

Buteo rufinus

8

3

2

36

Northern Sparrowhawk

Accipiter nisus

1

37

Common Kestrel

Falco tinnunculus

10

8

38

Lesser Kestrel

Falco naumanni

39

Barbary Falcon

Falco pelegrinoides

40

Peregrine Falcon

Falco peregrinus

41

Barbary Partridge

Alectoris barbara

42

Common Quail

Cotirnix coturnix

43

Moorhen

Gallinula chloropus

1

6

4

44

Coot

Fulica atra





4



45

Purple Swamphen

Porphyrio porphyrio

1

46

Common Crane

Grus grus

450

37

1

April 13

25

5

100+

© Naturetrek

24

1

1 10

2 3

1

46

4

Phoenicopterus ruber

1

300

300

Tadorna tadorna

70

30

50

1

5

6

4

26

1000

30

20 6

2

10

20

6

1

10

12

2 3

1

2 14 2

4

2

1

30 5 2

1

10

2

1

2

1

1

1

1

3

1

1 1

1

1

1

1 4

1

1 1 3 20 1h

1h 100

7

Tunisia

Tour Report

March Common name

Scientific name

47

Oystercatcher

Haematopus ostralegus

8

Black-winged Stilt

Himantopus himantopus

49

Stone Curlew

Burhinus oedicnemus

50

Cream-coloured Courser

Cursorius cursor

51

Ringed Plover

Charadrius hiaticula

52

Little Ringed Plover

Charadrius dubius

5

6

53

Kentish Plover

Charadrius alexandrinus

3

2

54

Grey Plover

Pluvialis squatarola

55

Lapwing

Vanellus vanellus

56

Turnstone

Arenaria interpres

57

Sanderling

Calidris alba

58

Curlew Sandpiper

Calidris ferruginea

5

59

Dunlin

Calidris alpina

5

60

Little Stint

Calidris minuta

61

Temminck’s Stint

Calidris temmincki

8

62

Ruff

Philomachus pugnax

1

63

Curlew

Numenius arquata

64

Whimbrel

Numenius phaeopus

65

Bar-tailed Godwit

Limosa lapponica

66

Redshank

Tringa totanus

67

Spotted Redshank

Tringa erythropus

12

2

68

Greenshank

Tringa nebularia

1

2

69

Marsh Sandpiper

Tringa stagnatilis

70

Wood Sandpiper

Tringa glareola

1

71

Green Sandpiper

Tringa hypoleuca

2

72

Common Sandpiper

Actitis hypoleucos

6

73

Common Snipe

Gallinago gallinago

1

1

74

Mediterranean Gull

Larus melanocephalus

10

6

75

Slender-billed Gull

Larus genei

76

Black-headed Gull

Larus ridibundus

77

Yellow-legged Gull

Larus cachinnans

6

78

Lesser Black-backed Gull

Larus fuscus

2

79

Sandwich Tern

Sterna sandvicensis

4

80

Common Tern

Sterna hirundo

10

81

Caspian Tern

Chlidonias hybridus

1

82

Rock Dove

Columba livia

83

Woodpigeon

Columba palumbus

1

84

Laughing Dove

Streptopelia senegalensis

85

Collared Dove

Streptopelia decaocto

86

Little Owl

Athene noctua

87

Common Swift

Apus apus

88

Pallid Swift

Apus pallidus

89

Alpine Swift

Apus melba

90

Little Swift

Apus affinis

91

Hoopoe

Upupa epops

92

Wryneck

Jynx torquilla

93

Roller

Coracias garrulus

94

Skylark

Alauda arvensis





95

Crested Lark

Galerida cristata





96

Thekla Lark

Galerida theklae

97

Short-toed Lark

Calandrella brachydactyla

8

17

18

19

12

100

20

21

22



30

23

24

25

30 

2 30 10

6

2

4

6

6

2

20

10

1

6

6 1 30

20

6 1 20

20 10 1

3

50 10

2





4 10+



1

2 7

3

2 6

1

30

6















2

1

2

2

6

 



2





2

  10

6

2

1

1

2

10 







2





10

50

50

50

25

10

10

4



10

10

20

10

10

10

10

1

1 20

20

1

1

4

50

5

6

4

2

1

3

50

2

8 3

1

3 2

1

25

3

1







15

50

6

1 1 



8

© Naturetrek

April 13

Tunisia

Tour Report

March Common name

Scientific name

98

Desert Lark

Ammomanes deserti

99

Thick-billed Lark

Ramphocoris clotbey

1

100

Temminck's Lark

Eremophila bilopha

20

1

101

Hoopoe Lark

Alaemon alaudipes

20

4

102

Sand Martin

Riparia riparia

103

Barn Swallow

Hirundo rustica

4











12



104

House Martin

Delichon urbica

20+











105

Meadow Pipit

Anthus pratensis

2

1

106

Water Pipit

Anthus spinoletta

1

107

Red-throated Pipit

Anthus cervinus

1

108

White Wagtail

Motacilla alba

20

6

2

109

Yellow Wagtail

Motacilla flava

50



110

Wren

Troglodytes troglodytes

111

Common Bulbul

Pycnonatus barbatus

5

112

Robin

Erithacus rubecula

2

113

Redstart

Phoenicurus phoenicurus

114

Black Redstart

Phoenicurus ochruros

115

Moussier's Redstart

Phoenicurus moussieri

116

Stonechat

Saxicola torquata

117

Northern Wheatear

Oenanthe oenanthe

118

Black-eared Wheatear

Oenanthe hispanica

119

Desert Wheatear

Oenanthe deserti

120

White-crowned wheatear

Oenanthe leucopyga

121

Black Wheatear

Oenanthe leucura

1

10

122

Red-rumped Wheatear

Oenanthe moesta

1

4

123

Blue Rock Thrush

Monticola solitarius

2

124

Blackbird

Turdus merula

20

10



125

Zitting Cisticola

Cisticola juncidis

20

20

1

126

Cetti's Warbler

Cettia cetti

2h

3h

127

Sedge Warbler

Acrocephalus schoenobaenus

128

Sardinian Warbler

Sylvia melanocephala

129

Subalpine Warbler

Sylvia cantillans

130

Desert Warbler

Sylvia nana

131

Blackcap

Sylvia atricapilla

132

Western Orphean Warbler

Sylvia hortensis

133

Willow Warbler

Phylloscopus trochilus

1

4

134

Chiffchaff

Phylloscopus collybita

6



2

2

135

Blue Tit

Parus cearuleus

4

2

4

2

136

Southern Grey Shrike

Lanius meridionalis

5

7

2

5

137

Woodchat Shrike

Lanius senator

2

138

Fulvous Babbler

Turdoides fulvus

139

Common Starling

Sturnus vulgaris

140

Spotless Starling

Sturnus unicolor

141

Raven

Corvus corax

142

Brown-necked Raven

Corvus ruficollis

143

Spanish Sparrow

Passerhispaniolensis

144

House Sparrow

Passer domesticus

145

Desert Sparrow

Passer simplex

146

Chaffinch

Fringilla coelebs

2

2

6

1

2

147

Serin

Serinus serinus

10

20

30

10

2

10

148

Greenfinch

Cardulis chloris







10

20

5

© Naturetrek

April 13

17

18

19

20

25

1

7

21

22

23

24

2

3

2

25

2  

1

1

1 2

1

10

2

6

1

4

2

1 2

4

1

1

5 6

10

4

1 1

10

5

1

2

2

6

1

3

3 10



1

5 20

6

8

3

3

1 10

2 10

2

2 6

1 1 2

4

2

2

30

1

2 2

20+ 2 20+

50

50





2

6

2

20

20 10

1





3 20+



















 10 1

5

9

Tunisia

Tour Report

March Common name

Scientific name

149

Linnet

Acanthis cannabina

150

Trumpeter Finch

Bucanetes githagineus

151

Corn Bunting

Milaria calandra

17

18

19

20

21

2

10

20

6

22

23

24

25

10 10+

6

10

Mammals Dorcas Gazelle (Bouhedma and Jebil)

Scimitar-horned Oryx (Bouhedma)

Addax (Bouhedma and Jebil)

Gundi (Matmata)

Cape Hare (Kerkouane)

Golden Jackal (El Haffey)

Pond Terrapin (Lebna and Jedidi)

Sand Lizard

Bat spp

Reptiles and Amphibians Marsh Frog spp. (various sites)

Butterflies Small White

Large White

Green-striped White

Eastern Orange Tip

Greenish Black Tip

Clouded Yellow,

Spotted Fritillary

Red Admiral

Painted Lady

Southern Speckled Wood

Small Copper

Wall

Common Blue

Cleopatra

African Grass Blue

Provence Hairstreak

10

© Naturetrek

April 13