Garment Production Knowledge
Basic Textile Knowledge
FP05-S Foundation Programme
Basic Textile Knowledge
Objectives:
Content : 2. Understand some common Garment
Terms 1. Understand
Basic Textile Knowledge
• • • • • •
Definition of textile fibre Classification of textile fibres Terminology of textile fibres Natural fibres Man made fibres General properties of textile fibres
Basic Textile Knowledge
Classification of Textile Fibre 纖維分類
From Fibre to Consumer Product Fibre
Yarn
Basic Textile Knowledge
Vegetable 植物纖維
Animal 動物纖維
Cotton 棉
Silk 絲
Linen 麻 Wool 羊毛 End Product
Manufacture
Finishing
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維
Natural Fibre 天然纖維
Fabric
Mineral 礦物 纖維 Asbestos 石棉
Regenerated
再造纖維 Viscose rayon 黏膠人造絲
Hair 毛髮
Basic Textile Knowledge
Definition of Fibre Fibre is a slender filament or fine strand of sufficient length, pliability, and strength to be spun into yarns and woven or knitted into cloth.
Acetate 醋酯纖維
Synthetic 合成纖維
Other 其他
Nylon 尼龍
Metallic 金屬纖維
Polyester 聚酯纖維
Glass 玻璃纖維
Acrylic 腈綸
Carbon 碳纖維
Basic Textile Knowledge
Fibre classification Natural Fibres 天然纖維 Natural fibres are fibres that are naturally produced in staple or filament form and can be directly made into yarn. They can be further divided, according to their origins into different categories.
Basic Textile Knowledge
Fibre classification
Fibre Classification
Cotton Fibre Cotton is a seed fibre,種籽纖維 attached to the seed of the cotton plant.
1.
Natural vegetable fibre 天然植物纖維
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2.
Natural animal fibre 天然動物纖維
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Fibre length is normally between ½ to 2 ½ inches.
3.
Natural mineral fibre 天然礦物纖維
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It is the most widely used fibre in the world.
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The leading producers of cotton include United States, China, India, and Egypt.
Fibre Classification
1. Natural Vegetable Fibre Natural vegetable fibres are obtained from plants, examples include cotton 棉 and linen 麻 .
Fibre Classification
Vegetable Fibre - Cotton 棉
Fibre Classification
Flax Fibre
Fibre Classification
2. Natural Animal Fibre
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Flax comes from the stem of the flax plant.
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When the fibre is processed into fabric, it is called linen.
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Fibre length between 2 to 36 inches.
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Producers including Russia, Germany, France, Poland & China.
Natural animal fibres are sub-divided into three sub-classes : wool, hair and silk. Wool, the hair from sheep 綿羊 , is treated as one sub-class because of its importance as a textile fibre. Merino sheep produce the best wool, fibre length between 1 to 5 inches. Other classes of wool fibre, fibre length ranging from 2 to 10 inches or longer.
Fibre Classification
Vegetable Fibre Flax / Linen 亞麻
Fibre Classification
2. Natural Animal Fibre Hair is the sub-class for all fibres that are obtained from any kind of mammal except sheep, 綿羊 examples: Cashmere 茄士咩 / 羊絨, Mohair 安哥拉山羊毛 / 馬海毛, Rabbit hair 安哥拉兔毛, Camel hair 駱駝毛
Fibre Classification
Wool 羊毛
My name is Merino
Raising Merino in Australia
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair Camel hair 駱 駝 毛
Wool Fibre Surface
Fibre Classification
Wool 羊毛 Sheep Raising
Sheep Shearing
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair Cashmere 茄士咩 /羊絨
Wool Handling
Wool Bales ready for Shipment
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair
Natural Animal Fibre
Angora Goat / Mohair 安哥拉山羊毛/馬海毛
Silk 真絲 • • •
Silk is made by the silkworm as it builds its cocoon. The silk substance is extruded from its body in one continuous strand from beginning to end. It is possible to unwind the cocoons and obtain long silk filaments.
Fibre Classification
Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair
Fibre Classification
Silk 真絲
Angora Rabbit hair 安哥拉兔毛 Silk Moths
Silkworm Extrude Filament
Silkworm
Silkworm form Cocoon
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Silk 真絲 Exercise Describe general properties of cotton and wool fibre. Describe the difference between silk fibre and wool fibre.
Silk Cocoon
Silk Filament Surface
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Silk 真絲 Cocoon Boiling
Silk Filament
Extract Filament from Cocoon
Silk fabric weaving
3. Natural Mineral Fibre 天然礦物纖維 There is only one kind of natural mineral fibre, asbestos 石綿. 石綿 This was once a very important and widely used fibre in industry, but is now banned in m a n y c o u n t r ies due to hea lth h az ar ds associated with it.
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維
Exercise Describe general properties of cotton and wool fibre. Describe the difference between silk fibre and wool fibre.
Fibre Classification
Fibre classification
a) Regenerated man-made fibres; 再造纖維 b) Synthetic man-made fibre; and 合成纖維 c) Other man-made fibres. 其他人造纖維
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維
Man-made Fibre 人 造 纖 維 Man-made fibres are fibres that are made by industrial processes, starting with materials which are completely different physically and chemically from the fibres made, they can be further divided into different categories.
Regenerated man-made fibres 再 造 纖 維 Regenerated man-made fibres are made from natural polymers, such as cellulose and protein.
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維
Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維
Viscose rayon 人造絲 / 人綿
Ingeo 玉 米 纖 維
Viscose rayon is made from timber. The impurities in the timber are removed, leaving cellulose, which is in solid form. In order to make fibre, a cellulose solution must be made to form polymers. It usually has a high luster quality giving it a bright shine.
Ingeo is a polylactide fibre made from plants instead from oil.
Fibre Classification
Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維 Acetate 醋 酯 纖 維 Acetate is a manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is cellulose acetate. It has a round shape with striations on the surface. The starting material for the manufacture of acetate fibre is cellulose, which can be obtained from cotton, or wood pulp.
It can be made into different form according to needs and blend with other fibres such as cotton or wool for textile use. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維 Synthetic man-made fibres 合 成 纖 維 Synthetic man-made fibres are also produced from polymers, but from man-made, not naturally occurring ones. Synthetic man-made fibres can be further divided into sub--classes, three of which are very important, namely, in the order of world Production -- polyester, nylon (or polyamide) and acrylic.
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維
Nylon 錦綸
Acrylic 腈綸
Nylon, also called polyamide, is defined as a manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polyamide. This was first produced in 1935 by DuPont. The filament fibres are round, smooth and shiny. It’s most widely used structures are monofilament, staple or tow and is available as partially drawn or as finished filaments.
Acrylic is a long-chain polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units. Acrylic are produced almost exclusively as staple fibres. The DuPont created the first acrylic fibre in 1941 and named as “Orlon”. They are lightweight, soft, warm and have a wool-like handle, low density, and good resistance to light and chemicals.
Fibre Classification
Fibre Classification
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維
Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維
Polyester 滌 綸
Spandex 氨綸
The raw materials for the manufacture of polyester are ethylene and phenol, which are both obtained from petroleum. Polyester can be produced in different form and have good change of shape after application of heat (thermosetting). Thermo-pleating and wrinkle free application are commonly used on polyester fabric.
Spandex or elastane is a polyurethane fibre that can give good elasticity. It was invented in 1959 by DuPont and their trademark is “Lycra”. It is stronger and more durable than rubber. It can achieve tight-fitting effect and give comfort to movements.
Fibre Classification
Man-made Fibre 人造纖維 Other man-made fibres 其他 纖 維 The third class of man-made fibre is comprised of those fibres which do not belong to either of the above-mentioned classes. Included in this class are metallic fibre 金 屬 纖 維, glass fibre 玻 璃 纖 維 and carbon fibre 碳 纖 維, which have an extensive range of primarily industrial uses.
General Properties of Textile Fibre
Fibre Classification
Discussion/Exercise Name and discuss two regenerated man-made fibres. Name two natural fibres and give their special features.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 1) Length 長度 Fibre must have a certain length to enable it to be spun into yarn. Fibres are grouped into two categories, according to their length. a) Staple fibres and 短 纖 維 b) Filamentary fibres 長 絲
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 2) Diameter or Fineness 直徑 / 幼度 The diameter refers to the thickness of the fibre. In natural fibres, diameter usually varies from one part of the fibre to another and cause irregularities in fibre size.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 3) Strength / Tenacity 韌 度 Strength is a fibre’s ability to withstand stress. Fibre strength, the force needed to break the fibre, is known as tenacity and expressed in grams per denier or grams per fibre weight.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 2) Diameter or Fineness 直徑 / 幼度 Shape of different fibre diameter
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 4) Elasticity 彈 力 Elasticity is the ability of a fibre to recover from deformations, including bending, extension and creasing.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 5) Luster 光 澤 Luster refers to the light reflected from a surface. Various characteristics of a fibre affect the amount of luster. Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross-sectional shape, and longer fibre length.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 6) Pilling 毛 粒 Pilling is the formation of groups of short or broken fibres on the surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shape of a tiny ball called a pill.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 7) Abrasion Resistance 抵抗磨擦 Abrasion resistance is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to fabric durability. 8) Absorbency / Moisture regain 吸濕力 Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 9) Resistance to Detergents, Chemical and Solvent 抵抗清潔劑、 抵抗清潔劑、化學物及乾洗劑 It is desirable for fibre to be resistant to detergents, since most textile end-products need to be cleaned by being washed in water or dry clean with detergent.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 10) Thermal Stability 熱 穩 定 性 Thermal stability is the ability to withstand high temperature. 11) Flammability 可 燃 性 Flammability is the ability to burn. This characteristic is important because we are surrounded with various textile products. This is especially important to babies & children’s wear, sleep wear and functional wear.
Fibre Properties
Discussion/Exercise Discuss any two fibre properties that you consider are more important for garment making. Suggest the material to make sportswear and give reasons.
Fibre Properties
General properties of fibre 12) Thermoplasticity 熱 塑 性 The ability of fibres to withstand heat exposure is an important factor affecting their suitability for many end uses.
Common Garment Terms
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items -- Ready To Wear
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Woolen suiting Woolen knitwear
Common Garment Terms
Artificial Fur / Fake Fur Garment
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Bermuda Shorts Riding Breeches
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Culottes Flare Skirt
Pleated Skirt
Shift Dress
Bias Skirt
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Straight Skirt
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Panel Skirt
Gored Skirt
Occasion Ladies Wear
&
Kids Wear
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Hand knitted sweater
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Pullover
Knitted co-ordinates
Trench Coat
Common Garment Terms
Basic Items
Camisole
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Construction Line Cardigan
Blended Sweater
Vest
Notching on Pattern
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms Pattern Grading
Marker Layout
Computer aided Fabric Cutting
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Continuous Fusing Machine
Common Garment Terms
Manufacturing Terms
Potting 1st pattern to computer
Computer Marker Layout & Checking Marker Printing
Fabric Cutting
Fabric Cutting with metal gloves
Common Garment Terms
Garment Parts Description Belt Loops
Manufacturing Terms
Waistband
Front Pleats
Slanting Pocket
Front Fly Front Rise
Out-leg Seam
Front Crease
Inseam
French Seam
Directional Line Turn-up
Garment Parts Description Collar Point Shoulder Yoke Sleeve
Collar Band
Garment Parts Description
Manufacturing Terms
Collar Collar Button Armhole Chest Pocket
Sleeve Placket Cuff
Front Placket Front Panel Sleeve Placket
Vent
Cuff Button
Bust Dart and Waist Dart
Garment Parts Description
Flare Sleeves Kimono Sleeves
Batwing Sleeves
Thank You
Garment Parts Description
Raglan Sleeves Puff Sleeves Bishop Sleeves Petal Sleeves
