D.k. Sanghi and Rakesh Tiwle

Int. J. Med. Pharm. Res.,

2013,Vol.1(3)

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International Journal of Medicine and Pharmaceutical Research 2013, Vol.1 (3): 308-317

ISSN 2321-2624

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Library Herble Drug and Excipient used in Cosmetic Preparation for the Enhancement of Beauty D.k. Sanghi and Rakesh Tiwle* Shri Laxmanrao Mankar Institute of Pharmacy, Amgoan, Gondia, Maharashtra, India- 441902. *E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and civilization so, they are very conscious about beauty because of that they use various beauty products that have herbs to look charming and young. Cosmetology, the science of alteration of appearance, the cosmetic preparations were used for the purpose of worship and sensual enjoyment. Indian herbs and its significance are popular worldwide. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated by the decline of faith in plant remedies and modern cosmetics were natural and thereby superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics, the motto of the present review, article is to cosmetics importance in the world, at the same time importance of herbal drugs in cosmetics in this article we are discussing lot’s of herbal drug like Sunflower oil, Coconut oil, Aloe, Henna, Neem, Multani Mitts(Fullers Earth), Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum), Green Tea, Turmeric, Amla, Almond oil, Eucalyptus Oil etc. These are the chemical constituent give the better elegance and good therapeutic value. In this article microbial limit also mentioned as per the international specifications. Key words: Herbal cosmetics, Plant extracts, Cosmetics, Hair and skin care products, antioxidants.

Introduction Natural cosmetics grow in a worldwide market. In India herbal treatment is a medicinal system. ‘Traditional’ use of herbal medicines implies substantial historical use, many products that are available as ‘traditional herbal medicines’. In many developing countries, medicinal plants in order to meet health care needs. The demand and need for herbal cosmetic is increasing day to day because of their credentials and less side effects.1 According to the guideline of World Health Organization (WHO) assess of quality of herbal medicines2. Many herbal cosmetics preparation can be manufacture small scale cottage industries and3 these preparations are not subjected to aseptic conditions during preparation, storage and transport etc, required for pharmaceutical preparations.4,5 The manure and slurries which is obtain from animal source it is generally having a pathogenic organisms, hence there is a chances of increasing microbial growth a number of organisms from naturally occurring herbs, aerobic sporulating bacteria

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frequently tly predominate, handling, harvesting, and production may cause additional contamination and microbial growth, thereby deteriorating the cosmetic preparations.6,7 It is quality approval of products poor quality control, standardization, etc.8,9Now it’s time me to think about the scientific approach to this problem. The main purpose of this study is to determine microbial quality of herbal cosmetics. Herbs can be categoryies for cosmetics in three forms total extracts, selective extracts or single molecules pu purified rified from extracts. Total extracts (e.g. aloe vera gel, teas, plant extracts etc.)10 These antioxidant botanicals are generally classified into three categories depending upon the nature of their constituents as carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols. F Flavonoids, lavonoids, impart the UV protection and metal chelating properties. The polyphenols is a large class and contains various molecules like rosemarinic acid (rosemary)11. Herbal Drug and Formulation used iin Dry Skin Treatment Rice bran wax In Indian cultures rice wax is used for beauty treatments and skin problems it is extracted from the inner husk of rice, rice bran oil contain vitamin E.54 which is having a high antioxidant and exfoliating properties, making it ideal for use in scrubs and facial skincare cosmetic products. For cosmetics, rice bran wax can be derived from this natural oil to serve as an emollient for smoother application and finish, and the expanding properties of rice allow it to help lengthen the appearance of lashes. Sunflower oil Sunflower oil is the non-volatile volatile oil compressed from sunflower (Helianthus annuus)) seeds. Sunflower oil is commonly used in food as frying oil, and in cosmetic formulations as an emollient.. Shown in figure no 1. Sunflower oil was first industrially produced in 1835 in the Russian Empire. It is the non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds obtained from Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae. Sunflower oil contains tocopherols, lecithin, carotenoids and waxes. In cosmetics, it has having a smoothing properties.

Figure no. 1 Sunflower oil Coconut oil Coconut oil obtain from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera,belongs to family Arecaceae. It is having a melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25 ºC (75 (75-76 76 ºF) and thus it can be used easily in both liquid or solid forms and is often used in cooking and baking. It is a excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener shown in figure no 2.12 A study shows that extra virgin coconut oil is effective and safe when used as a moisturizer, with absence of adverse reactions and it prevent from pro protein loss and wet combing hair. 13

Figure no. 2 Coconut oil

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Aloe Aloe /ˈæloʊ/, also Aloë, is a genus containing about 500 species of flowering succulent plants.. The most commonly known as Aloe vera, or "true aloe", A native of southern Africa, the aloe Vera plant has fleshy spiny-toothed spiny leaves and red or yellow flowers. ers. It is an ingredient in mainly used in formulation cosmetics because it heals moisturizes, and softens skin. Simply cut one ne of the aloe vera leaves to easily extract the soothing gel aloe vera tree and its formulation is shown as below figure no. 3,4.

Figure no. 3 Aleo vera cream.

Figure no. 4 Aleo plant.

Herbal Drug and Formulation Dandruff Treatment In the dandruff problem Ayurveda has play a tremendous role there are lot’s of natural medications apart from these medicine a very common herbs like Neem, Kapoor (naphthalene (naphthalene), ), and Henna, Hirda, Rosary Pea, Sweet Flag, Cashmere tree and Mandor etc. Henna Henna (Lawsonia inermis,, also known as hina, the henna tree, the mignonette tree, and the Egyptian privet) privet 48,49 it contain a dye molecule called Lawsone, which when processe processed d becomes Henna powder. Henna has a natural affinity with the proteins in our hair, making it able to “stain” the colour onto the hair shaft.14

Figure no. 5 Heena Neem The herb, Azadirachta indica, family Meliaceae has been found that it having a properties of a blood purifier, beauty enhancer etc. Neem gum is used as a bulking agent and for the preparation of special purpose food.50 It is used for a number of medicinal purpos purposes. Neem oil is used for preparing cosmetics such as soap, neem shampoo, balms and creams as well as toothpaste. Some areas where it can be uses in the treatment of common cosmetic problems are skin cleanser.15

Figure no.6 Neem Plant

Figure no. 7 Neem face wash

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Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) Holy basil, called Tulsi in India, is ubiquitous in Hindu tradition. Perhaps its role as a healing herb was instrumental in its "sacred" implication.37 Tulsi has been used for thousands of years in Ayurveda for its diverse healing properties. It is mentioned in the Charaka Samhita Samhita.51

Figure no. 8 Multani Mitti (Fullers Earth) It is Mother Nature's own baby powder.38 Clay was one of the earliest substances to be used as a beauty mask to draw oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth, gums and hair, To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn, helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes and dirt. Multani mitti is comes under the facial cosmetic preparation used in cakes for beautifying the cheeks. Multani mitti powder is shown in figure no 9.

Figure no. 9 Multani mitti powder. Herbal Drug and Formulation Skin Protection Green Tea Green tea is tea made solely with the leaves of Camellia sinensis belonging to family Theaceae. It protects against direct damage to the cell and moderates inflammation, according to research from the Department of Dermatology, Columbia University, New York. Studies suggest that the catechins in green tea are some 20 times stronger in their antioxidant powers than even vitamin E. Whether applied topically or consumed as a beverage or dietary supplement, green tea is a premiere skin protectant. Men, women and children need to position this super shield on their side against the ravaging effects ts of the sun.16

Figure no. 10 Green tea leaf Turmeric Turmeric, Curcuma longa is a rhizomatous herbacessential oilsus perennial plant of the ginger belongs to family Zingiberaceae.52 Turmeric is used in many celebrations of Hindus festival. Especially in Hindu wedding brides

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would rub with turmeric on their bodies for glowing look. New born babies also rubbed with turmeric on their forehead for good luck. Traditionally women rub turm turmeric eric on their cheeks to produce a natural golden glow.

Figure no 11. Turmeric Herbal Drug and Formulation Hair Problems Amla Amla is obtained from the plant Emblica Officinalis Officinalis,, Family Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair.17 It consists of calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair growth and prevents premature graying ing of hair.18 Amla grows throughout India and bears an edible fruit. This fruit is highly prized both for its high vitamin C content and for the precious oil, which is extracted from its seeds and pulp and used as a treatment for hair and scalp problems iiss used in eye disease, hair fall problems etc.

Figure no. 12 Amla

Figure no. 13 Marketed Amla oil

Almond oil The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. It contains about 78% of this fat. This oil contains very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega--3 3 essential fatty acids. It proves to be very nourishing, and softens and strengthens the hair. The almond oil also proves to be a very good cleansing agent. Almond oil has been used for many centuries, even before it's spread as a commercial agro agro-product. Essential Oils It is extracted from plants for natural fragrances and volatile, liquid aroma compounds from nnatural atural sources, usually plants. Essential oils contain mainly volatiles as terpenoids, benzenoids, fatty acid derivatives and alcohols. The FDA and other authorities recognize essential oils generally as safe. Although essential oils are widely used in cosmetics metics their actual mode of action is not fully understood. The uses of essential oils are determined by their chemical, physical, and sensory properties, which differ greatly from oil to oil. Each of the individual chemical compounds that can be found in oil contributes to the overall character. Essential oils can be used in several ways for cosmetic purpose like Inhalation, Massage, Baths, Compresses, Steam treatments, Room Fragrance etc.19 Comman properties of essential oils.20 Fragrance: perfumery is thee main use of essential oils in cosmetics although synthetic fragrances are more stable and have better longevity. Hair care: essential oils are used as conditioning Anti-dandruff & permanent waving agents. Skin care: essential oils are the ideal to topical active ingredients for any skin care product since they can penetrate the skin and bind the membranes of skin cells. Essential oils can thus have sustained effects in the skin. Copreservatives: many essential oils have antibacterial activity and are added as supportive agents to preservatives.

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Rose oil The rose oil, produced from the petals of Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia, family Rosaceae. Steam-distilled Steam rose oil is known as "rose otto" while the solvent extracted product is known as "rose absolute". It is used more commonly in perfumery. The key flavor compounds that contribute to the distinctive scent of rose oil are betabeta damascenone, beta-damascone, beta-ionone, ionone, and oxide.

gure no. 14 Rose oil. Figure

Figure no. 15 Rose leaf

Eucalyptus Oil Eucalyptus oil can be obtained or distilled from the leaf of Eucalyptus,, a genus of the plant family myrtaceae. Eucalyptus oil can help to get rid of dandruff, which in turn can help to promote healthy growth of hair. Just mix about 9 to 10 drops of eucalyptus oil with shampoo and then gently massages scalp for a for a few minutes, after which rinse it off with water. Massaging scalp with eucalyptus oil can stimulate blood circulation and thereby, making hair healthy and beautiful.21

Figure no 16. Eucalyptus leaf Citronella oil This oil can be obtained from the leaves and stems of different species of Cymbopogon family Cardiopteridaceae, as shown in figure 5. The crisp, rich citrus or lemon like aroma of this oil drives away body odour and is used deodorants and body sprays, although in very small quantities, since it heavy doses it may give skin irritations. It can also be mixed with the bathing waterr to have a refreshing, body odour ending bath. Other essential oils which are used in cosmetics include anise oil, coriander oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, palma rose oil, sandalwood oil.

Figure no. 17 Citronella oil.

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Herbal Drug and Formulation Antioxidants Antioxidants, may be either exogenous or endogenous,22 Now, there is a growing interest toward natural antioxidants of herbal resources.23,25Epidemiological and in vitro studies on medicinal plants and vegetables strongly supported this idea that hat plant constituents with antioxidant activity are capable of exerting protective effects against oxidative stress in biological systems.26-29 Free radical formation is controlled naturally by various beneficial compounds known as antioxidants.30 In addi addition tion to fruits and vegetables, herbs of no particular nutritional value can also constitute an important source of antioxidants.31 The leaves from black and green tea (Camellia Camellia sinensis), sinensis long used amongst western and Asian populations, respectively, const constitute itute an important source of potentially healthhealth protecting antioxidants.32,33 Tamarind Tamarind or Tamarindus indica, family Fabaceae, is widely growth in tropical regions and has long been supplied as an important nutrition source and traditional medicat medications.53 Tamarind seed has activity of radical scavenging34, lipid 35 peroxidation reducing and anti-microbial microbial activitie.36 Its antioxidant activity is appropriate for anti-wrinkle anti cosmetics.

Figure no. 18 Tamarind Vitamin C It prevents free radical damage due to its property of donating free radicals. It is beneficial in boosting immune system. The main source of Vitamin-C C is carrots, peaches, sweet potatoes, oranges, broccolis, etc. Vitamin E Both plants and animals serve as a source of vitamin E. It has been found beneficial against certain types of cancer & cardiac problems. It is known as 'scavenger of free radicals’. Vitamin E is mainly present in nuts, whole cereal grains, almonds, vegetable oils etc. Assessment of Microbial Quality of Commercial Herbal Cosmetics The demand for natural herbal cosmetics is increasing day by day in our life.39 People do have misconceptions that these herbal cosmetics, beautifully packed in fashionable containers are safe for use. In India many herbal cosmetics are prepared in cottage industries. These preparations are not subjected to aseptic conditions during preparation, storage and transport etc, is required for pharmaceutical preparations.40, 41 Various ious herbal cosmetic samples were purchased from local market of Karad Taluka of Satara district (India) for assessment of microbial quality.42 These included Emollient cream, Almond cream, Beauty cream, Cleansing lotion, Chandan cream, Shampoo, Utana, Mehandi, andi, Face powder etc. Pharmacognostically evaluated for their geniueness as per standard laid down in pharmacopeia.43 the determination of microbiological contamination was established for microbial load viz total bacterial count, total fungal count and sspecific pecific pathogen (E.coli, Salmonellaspp, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa) in the commercial drug samples. The methodology applied for the studies are as follows as per prescribed W.H.O GUIDELINE. Here some example I am enlisting in that Bot Botanical anical Name, fungal growth otal fungal count and specific pathogen is shown in table no 1. Table no 1. Microbial limit as per the international specifications.44 S. No

1

Botanical Name

Zingiber officinalis

Comm ercial Name

Part taken for study

Sunthi

Rhizom e

Total bacterial count(Cfu/gm) Whoo limit 105/gm Result Inference 3×105 Beyond limit

Total yeast Mould count(Cfu/gm) Who limit 103/gm Result Inference 2.6×104 Beyond limit

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Presence of pathogenic bacteria E.coli

Salmon ella spp

Absent

Absent

Staphyl ococcus aureus Absent

Pseudomo nas aeroginosa Absent

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2 3 4 5

Boerhaavia diffusa Glycerrhiza glabara Terminalia arjuna Terminalia chebula

Punrav a Mulat hi Arjuna Harhar

Whole plant Root Stem bark Fruit

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5×105 2×105 5.9×104 1.8×105

Beyond limit Beyond limit Beyond limit Beyond limit

1.4×104 8.7×104 1.9×104 1.3×104

Beyond limit Beyond limit Beyond limit Beyond limit

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Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Absent

Herbal Excipient in Cosmetic Preparation Herbal excipient play a very important role in the cosmetic products which are used to protect skin against exogenous and endogenous harmful agents and enhance the beauty and attractiveness of skin.45 The use of cosmetics not only developing an attractive external appearance, but towards achieving longevity of good health by reducing skin disorders 46 Herbal Gel of Stevia Extract Herbal gel of stevia extract is a growing demand for herbal cosmetics in the world market and they are invaluable gifts of nature. Therefore, we tried to make an herbal gel containing Stevia extract at two different concentrations (2.5% and 5.0%) and tested them for all the physicochemical parameters of gel.47Our study indicated that the developed herbal formulation consisting 2.5% Stevia extract was comparatively better than other one after the stability study however, both formulations were non irritant and did not show any toxicity. Curcuminoid Based Herbal Face Cream Curcuminoids from Curcuma domestica Val. (turmeric) it has been incorporated in the formulation. Pharmacognostical standardization of turmeric has been done as per Indian Herbal Pharmacopoeia [IHP]-2002 to ensure the genuinity of the crude turmeric rhizomes. It includes taxonomical authentication, morphological characterization, powdered drug microscopy, identification tests of turmeric powder and quantitative standards - that are foreign organic matter(0.43%), alcoholic soluble extractive (7.36%), water soluble extractive (20.32%), total ash(8.46%), acid insoluble ash (0.76%) and loss on drying (12.52%). All the quantitative standard values are in compliance with IHP-2002. Turmeric rhizome powder has been extracted with methanol and curcumin content in the methanolic extract has been quantified spectrophotometrically. It has yielded 3.79 g of curcumin per 100 g of turmeric rhizome powder. Stearic acid cream base has been used to incorporate standardized methanolic extract in isopropyl alcohol, triethanolamine, almond oil, light liquid paraffin oil, moisturizer conditioner and cetyl alcohol. Evaluation of formulated cream with parameters type of emulsion, ashing at 600 oC, pH, the some cosmetic product based on the herbal constituent. Useful Cosmetic Herbs Aloe Vera Linn (Ghrita Kumari/Kumari), Buchananla Lanzan Spreng (Chironji), Cucumis Sativa Linn (Kheera), Datura Stramonium Linn. (Dhatura),Eclipta alba Hassk (Bhringraj) , Foeniculum Vulgare Mill (Saunf), Glycyrrhiz Glabra Linn. (Mulathi), Hibiscus ros sinensis Linn. (Jasut/China Rose), Impatiens balsamina Linn.(Gul Mehandi), Impatiens Linn. (Gulmendi), Indigofera Linn, Inula Linn, Ipomea Linn, Ipomoea obscura (Linn.) etc. Common Cosmetic Herbs, Active Constituents and Its Applications Acacia Concinna (PODS) (Shikakai), Achillea milltefollum (WH) (Millefoil) , Allium cepa (Bulbs) (Onion), Aloe vera(exudate) (Aloe),Althea officinals (W/H) (Marsh Mallow),Ammi magis (Seeds) (Greater Ammi), Agnelica archangelica (Roots) (Angelica), Angelica keiskel (Leaves) (Angelica), Apium graveolens (Fruits) (Celery), Arctium Lappa (Roots) (Burdock) Amica montana (W/H) (Amica) , Artemesia abrotanum (Southern Wood), Azadirachta Indica (leaf & bark) (Neem Tree) , Betula Aiba (Sap) (Beech) , Betula alba (Bark) (Beech) , Bidens cemua (W/H) (Burr marigold),Borago officinalis (W/H) (Borage), Camellia sinesis (Leaves) (Tea), Carum carvi(Caraway) , Centella asiatica (whole herb) (Gotukola), Citrus limonum (Lemon), Cucumis Sativa (Fruit) (Cucumber) , Curcuma longa (Rhizome) (Turmeric),Daucus carota (Rhizome) (Carrot), Embiica officinallis (fruits) (Amla).etc

Acknowledgement The authors would like to acknowledge the assistance provided by kind cooperation of Secretary Shri Keshavrao Mankar Bhavabhuti Shikshan Sanstha “Shri Laxmanrao Mankar Institute of Pharmacy” Amagoan, Gondia Maharashtra, INDIA.

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