Personal Care Formulary Performance and Sensorial modifiers for:  AP/DEO  Sun Care  Hair Care  Color Cosmetics

p u re i n c o s m e t i c s

Elementis Specialties is a global supplier of natural hectorite clay and provider of natural biofunctional and active ingredients for hair care, skin care and anti-aging formulations. Get to know us better.

Before using any of our products, please consult our Safety Data Sheets. The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use. ©Copyright 2015, Elementis Specialties, Inc. All rights reserved. Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc. ®Registered trademark of Elementis Specialties, Inc.

p ure in c o sm e ti cs

Contents ANTIPERSPIRANT & DEODORANT TECHNOLOGY Benefit of Hectorite Clay

1

Performance benefits

2

Aerosol AP with Bentone Gel VS-5PC V

4

Anhydrous Roll-On Antiperspirant

4

Dry Antiperspirant Stick

5

SUN CARE Technology

6

Organic Sun Lotion

8

Organic Sunscreen

8

Inorganic Sunscreen

9

Inorganic Sunscreen

9

Organic Sunscreen

10

Daily UV Protecting Lotion

10

HAIR CARE Technology and Market Needs

11

Hair Manageability

12

Hair Shine

12

Hair Repair and Reconstruction

13

Prevention of Damage

14

Color Durability

14

Color Care Shampoo

15

Hair Glossing Serum

15

Color Care Daily Conditioner

16

Nourishing Hair Oil

16

Anti-Aging Conditioner

17

Leave-In Conditioner with Heat Protection

17

Restorative Hair Mask

18

COLOR COSMETICS Technology

19

CC Cream Multifunctional Hydrator

21

Light Moisturizing BB Cream with SPF 30++

22

Oil Based Eye Shadow

23

Moisturizing Cream Lipstick

23

Long Wear Mascara

24

Lip Gloss

24

1

Antiperspirant and Deodorant Technology

Underarm antiperspirants come in a variety of forms, but regardless of whether they are aerosols, sprays, roll-on emulsions or sticks, they all need rheological additives to suspend the Aluminium salts, which are the active ingredients in antiperspirants. Rheological additives provide uniformity in application and dosage of the product. In stick formulations they act as an inprocess suspension aid, so that the Aluminium salts do not settle out while the sticks are still in their molten state. Once the stick has formed the rheological additives provide an internal matrix that enhances structural integrity, smooths application, controls payout rate and provides a soft skin feel.

Benefits of Hectorite Clay 

Suspension of actives



Uniform dosage of actives



Prevention of nozzle blocking



Reduced staining and whitening on fabrics



Better dispersal of settled actives



Improved stability



Improved skin feel

2

Suspension of Actives Antiperspirant emulsion formulas were created using either Bentone® 38V or silica at 8% with 20% Aluminium Chlorohydrate. Figure 1 shows the samples after 1 month at 40°C. Here the modified fumed Silicas all showed stability problems, whereas the BENTONE® 38 V and fumed Silicas all provided good long term stability. In Figure 2 we can see antiperspirant spray systems containing no additive, BENTONE® 38 V, BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® IPM V, 16 seconds after shaking. The sample with no additive has the worst suspension. BENTONE® 38 V improves this, with BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V and BENTONE GEL® VS-IPM V offering superior suspension. After 1 minute the Aluminium Chlorohydrate in the samples with no additive and BENTONE® 38 V has completely settled to the bottom of the container, whereas the samples with BENTONE GEL® show good to almost complete suspension even after 1 minute, see Figure 3. Optimal performance of any organoclay requires addition of chemical activator (typically Propylene Carbonate or Ethanol/Water) and high energy homogenisation to fully delaminate individual clay platelets. Adding BENTONE® 38 V powder and the desired chemical activator using standard homogenisation does not work as efficiently as using the corresponding

Bentone® 38V

Silica 7nm

Silica 12nm

Silica 16nm

Supplier 1

Supplier 2

Supplier 1

Supplier 2

Silica Silylate

Silica Silylate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Figure 1. Stability of emulsions with Aluminum Chlorohydrate

BENTONE GEL®. Whenever using a BENTONE GEL® the experience and know-how of Elementis Specialties garantees the formulator that the organoclay is fully dispersed. No Additive

BENTONE® 38 V

BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V

BENTONE GEL® IPM V

Figure 2. Suspension of active in aerosol system after 16 seconds

No Additive

BENTONE® 38 V

BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V

BENTONE GEL® IPM V

Figure 3. Suspension of active in aerosol system after 1 minute

Less Coagulation Figure 4. 0.28% Rheological additive in an Antiperspirant Spray

2 Bentone® 38V

Supplier 2 Silica Silylate

Supplier 1

Supplier 2

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Improved Color Some antiperspirants leave a white mark on dark clothing, which is often caused by the antiperspirant active. The antiperspirant formulation can be modified to avoid this effect, but it is also desirable to select a rheological additive which does not contribute to any additional whitening. Black fabric was treated with antiperspirant emulsions , which contained 8% rheological additive. Visual assessment of the whitening intensities, shown in Figure 5, correlated well with the numerical differences for the CIE L*a*b* values found by using a portable spectrophotometer.

No Additive

Bentone® 38V

Supplier 1 Silica Silylate

Silica 7 nm

Silica 12 nm

Silica 16 nm

Supplier 2 Silica Silylate

Supplier 1 Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Supplier 2 Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Figure 5. Black cotton fabric whitening of antiperspirant emulsion formulations with Aluminium Chlorohydrate

Everybody is aware of the common problem of armpit (axillary) staining of shirts. This is caused by two effects, firstly the acidic nature of the antiperspirant active Aluminium Chlorohydrate in combination with the eccrine component of sweat causes a reaction to occur, resulting in yellowing of fabric. This is generally not visible immediately. The Aluminium Chlorohydrate is extremely effective at blocking perspiration, so this yellowing occurs only due to repeated wear, and therefore prolonged exposure to small levels of perspiration in combination with the Aluminium salt. (1) The second cause is due to the iron present in formulation ingredients, including Aluminium salts themselves, as well as in the laundry detergent and wash water. The deposition of iron onto the fabric causes an almost instant yellowing effect which can be followed by reactions with organic acids in skin secreations producing red/brown stains.(2) Hectorite clay only contains traces of iron, whereas Bentonite clay contains high levels of iron. Hectorite clay and Hectorite organoclays have been shown to have less antiperspirant stain potential than Bentonite products, both as raw materials and in combination with Aluminium Chlorohydrate. While only one representative photograph is shown, each test was run in triplicate for statistical analysis of the measured CIE L*a*b* values.

Water + Aluminum Chlorohydrate

3

5% Bentonite in Water Aluminum Chlorohydrate

5% Hectorite in Water + Aluminum Chlorohydrate

1.

Orren, L. J., (1976), 'Stain Resistant Anti-Perspirant Composition', US Pat 3934004.

2.

Klepak, P. B., and Petrillo, A. N., 'The Trouble with Stains', Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics, Vol. 68, Issue 7, p25-27, 1995.

AEROSOL AP WITH BENTONE GEL VS-5PC V A

B C

Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V (Elementis Specialties) Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid (Dow Corning) Xiameter pmx-200 Fluid 50cs (Dow Corning) SDA 40B, 200 Reach 501 (Summit Reheis) Propellant

KR9/085

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane Dimethicone

2.00 10.00 2.00

Alcohol Aluminum Chlorohydrate

0.50 10.00 75.50

Procedure: 1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous 2. Add phase “B” to phase “A”. 3. Fill and charge with phase “C”.

ANHYDROUS ROLL-ON ANTIPERSPIRANT A

B C

Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V (Elementis Specialties) Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid (Dow Corning) Xiameter pmx-200 Fluid 50cs (Dow Corning) SDA 40B, 200 Reach 501 (Summit Reheis) Fragrance

KR5/139

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane Dimethicone Alcohol Aluminum Chlorohydrate

3.00 69.00 5.00 2.00 20.00 1.00

Procedure: 1. Thoroughly combine phase “A” using a Silverson homogenizer. 2. Switch to low speed propeller mixing. 3. Add phase “B” to phase “A”. 4. Add phase “C” to phase “A/B” and mix until uniform.

4

TS-289

DRY ANTIPERSPIRANT STICK A B

C D E

Xiamter pmx—0345 Fluid (Dow Corning) Cetearyl Alcohol Lexemul 561 (Inolex) C47-057 (Sun Chemical) Bentone® Gel VS-5PC V (Elementis Specialties) Reach 501 (Summit Reheis) Fragrance

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane

39.70

Cetearyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Titanium Dioxide Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Aluminum Chlorohydrate

22.00 2.00 0.20 10.00

Procedure: 1. Thoroughly combine phase “A” using a Silverson homogenizer. 2. Switch to low speed propeller mixing. 3. Add phase B to phase “A”. 4. Add phase C to phase “A/B” and mix until uniform.

5

25.00 0.10

Solutions for Sun Care Sunscreen systems are subject to extreme environmental conditions, yet must consistently deliver the active ingredient to provide uniform protection. Predictable rheology and heat stability are crucial to formulators. Bentone® clay technology offers multiple benefits for today’s sun care formulations beyond just thickening. Data has proven its benefits for both formulators and consumers, such as improved product physical stability and rheological properties, enhanced SPF protection and water resistance and modified product texture with good spreadability. Improving product application properties is a formulation need directly related to product performance. Rheoluxe® rheology modifiers can help control the aesthetics of sunscreen emulsions while providing uniform application with good spreadability.

Benefits of Bentone Gel and Rheoluxe The Bentone Gel® products are optimally dispersed and activated predispersions of hectorite organoclays. They are more suited for sunscreen formulations than the organoclay powders due to ease of use and optimal performance results. Bentone Gel® is typically comprised of one or more organic solvents, a hectorite organoclay (Bentone® 38 VCG or Bentone® 27 V CG) and an organic activator. A wide range of Bentone Gel® products made from various commonly used cosmetic oils, esters and solvents can be selected based on each formulation need. The Rheoluxe® family of rheology modifiers were designed specifically for personal care applications. They provide an exceptional sensory profile with multifunctional benefits such as transfer resistance and increased film thickness. Rheoluxe is ideally suited for emulsion based sun care products.

6

Improved application When an emulsion is applied to the sin, it will ideally create a uniform layer covering the skin surface as shown below.

After application, many emulsions begin to pool in valleys, leaving an uneven film on the skin surface. This can be eliminated by the addition of Bentone® hectorite clay products. Bentone® products exhibit shear thinning and thixotropic flow behavior. At low shear rates, the hectorite platelets are in a three-dimensional gel network structure, thus creating a high viscosity medium. With the increase in shear rate, the structure is disturbed and the platelets orientate in the direction of flow, causing a decrease in viscosity. On removal of shear, the reformation of the gel structure occurs at a reduced rate than the deformation, thus producing a system with thixotropic flow behaviour. The thixotropic flow provided by Bentone® hectorite clay products create a uniform layer of protection on the surface of the skin.

For product formulation and processing, Bentone® technology helps to stabilize products, even at elevated temperatures. For sunscreens with inorganic actives, it efficiently suspends the particulates. It provides oil and aqueous phase viscosity building, rheology modification and thixotropic flow. Its rheological properties allow the sunscreen manufacturers to create products giving thick and even skin coverage. Furthermore, because of the use of Bentone® rheological additives, formulators may achieve enhanced SPF values and SPF water resistance.

7

ORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® EUG V A

B

C

D

Bentone® Gel EUG V (Elementis Specialties) Tegosoft CT (Evonik) Eutanol G (BASF) Xiameter pmx-0345 Fluid (Dow Corning) Parsol MCX (DSM Nutritional) Multiwax W-835 (Sonneborn) Tegosoft CN (Evonik) Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning) Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) Deionized Water Glycerin Sodium Chloride Preservative

KR7/184

Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

3.00 4.00

Octyldodecanol Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane

2.50 10.00

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate Microcrystalline Wax C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Lauryl PEG/PPG-15/15 Methicone

5.50 3.00 2.00 2.00

Butyl methoxybenzoylmethane Water

1.60 57.40 7.00 2.00 qs

Procedure: 1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Warm to 40°C. 2. Add phase “B” to phase A and heat to 75°C with propeller mixing. 3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C. 4. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase “C” to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes. 5. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling. 6. Add phase “D” to batch. 7. Mix until uniform.

ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V A

B

Bentone® Gel Tn V (Elementis Specialties) Cosmowax EM5483 PAST (Croda) Eusolex 2292 (Merck) Cithrol GMS A/S PAST (Croda) Tegosoft CT (Evonik) Tegosoft TN (Evonik) Eusolex 4360 (Merck) Deionized Water Propylene Glycol Preservative

KR8/005

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Benzophenone-3 Water

Procedure: 1. Heat phase A to 75°C under silverson mixer. 2. Heat phase B to 75°C with propeller mixing. 3. Slowly add phase “B” to phase “A” with silverson mixing. Mix for 20 minutes. 4. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling. 5. Cool to 30°C.

3.00 7.50 7.50 7.00 6.00 4.00 3.00 58.10 4.00 qs

8

INORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® IHD V A

B C

D

Bentone® Gel IHD V (Elementis Specialties) Tegosoft OS (Evonik) Fancol® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) Tegosoft M (Evonik) Abil EM90 (Evonik) Isolan GO33 (Evonik) NANOX™ 200 (Elementis Specialties) T805 (Evonik) Deionized Water Sodium Chloride Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate Butylene Glycol Preservative

KR8/104

Isohexadecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Ethylhexyl Stearate Isohexadecane Isopropyl Myristate Cetyl PEG/PPG-10-1 Dimethicone Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate Zinc Oxide Titanium Dioxide Water

8.00 13.50 8.00 5.00 1.80 1.75 13.50 2.35 41.60 0.75 0.75 3.00 qs

Procedure: 1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Heat to 75°C. 2. Add phase “B” to phase A under silverson homogenization. Hold temperature at 75°C. 3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C. 4. Add phase “D” to phase “C”. 5. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase C/D to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes. 6. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling. 7. Cool to 30°C.

INORGANIC SUN LOTION WITH BENTONE GEL® TN V A

B C D

Bentone® Gel TN V (Elementis Specialties) Tegosoft CT (Evonik) Cithrol GMS A/S PAST (Croda) Tegosoft TN (Evonik) Tego Alkanol 1618 (Evonik) Paratexin P (Azelis) NANOX™ 200 (Elementis Specialties) T805 (Evonik) Deionized Water Bentone® LT (Elementis Specialties) Propylene Glycol Paratexin M (Azelis) Phenoxyethanol

KR8/117

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Cetearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Zinc Oxide Titanium Dioxide Water Hectorite (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose Methylparaben

10.00 5.00 4.00 4.00 1.20 0.10 5.50 2.50 62.36 0.24 4.00 0.10 1.00

Procedure: 1. Combine phase “A” and mix until homogenous. Heat to 75°C. 2. Add phase “B” to phase “A” under silverson homogenization. Hold temperature at 75°C. 3. Combine phase “C” and heat to 75°C. Mix until Bentone LT is completely dispersed. 4. Add phase “D” to phase “C”. 5. Using high shear mixing, slowly add phase “C/D” to combined phase “A/B”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes. 6. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling. 7. Cool to 30°C.

ORGANIC SUNSCREEN WITH BENTONE GEL® PTIS V A

B

Bentone® Gel PTIS V (Elementis Specialties) Cosmowax EM5483 PAST (Croda) Eusolex 2292 (Merck) Cithrol GMS A/S PAST (Croda) Tegosoft CT (Evonik) Tegosoft TN (Evonik) Eusolext 4360 (Merck) Deionized Water Propylene Glycol Preservative

KR9/096

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (and) Disteardimonium 3.00 Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 7.50 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate (and) BHT 7.50 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 7.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00 Water 58.10 4.00 qs

Procedure: 1. Combine phase “A” and heat to 75°C. 2. Combine phase “B” and heat to 75°C. 3. Using silverson, slowly add phase B to phase “A”. Continue mixing for 3—5 minutes. 4. Transfer to propeller mixing and begin cooling. 5. Cool to 30°C.

S-1000-01

DAILY UV PROTECTING LOTION A KF-6038 (Shin Etsu) SPD-T5 (Shin Etsu)

Lauryl PEG-9 Polymethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

3.00

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Titanium Dioxide (and)

20.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Stearic Acid SPD-Z5 (Shin Etsu)

Zinc Oxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and)

10.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone ®

FANCOL Abyshea (Elementis Specialties)

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii

2.00

(Shea Butter) Extract Beeswax

Cera Alba (Beeswax)

1.00

Finsolv TN (Innospec)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

8.00

B Deionized Water

Water

52.00

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Chloride

0.50

Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr)

Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic

1.00

Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Glycerin ®

C Rheoluxe 8015 (Elementis Specialties)

Glycerin

3.00

PEG/PPG-450/50 Trimthylolpropane Dodecyl Ether

1.50

Procedure: 1.

Heat phase A ingredients to 60°C with propeller mixing.

2.

Combine phase B ingredients and mix until uniform. Heat phase B to 60°C,

3.

Very slowly, add phase B to phase A with moderate speed propeller mixing.

4.

Begin cooling. Add phase C to main batch with propeller mixing.

5.

Cool to room temperature under slow sweep mixing.

Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20rpm: 28,000cps

10

Hair Care Technology Hair is an important part of personal appearance, helping to define style and attractiveness. The processes used to create hair styles are often damaging leading to split ends, frizzy hair and breakage. Harsh surfactants strip away essential lipids, heat can melt the internal structure, straightening, bleaching and perming weakens hair and the mechanical force of brushing can lift the cuticle. Protective and repairative products are necessary to keep hair healthy. Many claims are being made to demonstrate the effectiveness of hair care products. These include aspects like manageability of the hair, protection, strengthening of the hair fibers and anti-breaking properties. Furthermore a visible benefit like the enhancement of the natural shine of the hair is important to achieve customer satisfaction. Elementis offers products proven to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair.

Meeting and making claims: Needs vs Elementis Specialties’ Benefits Light feeling, non-greasy sensorial 

Bentone® hydrophilic and organophilic clays



Rheoluxe® associative thickeners



Fancor® Abyssinian Oil

Deep conditioning of hair to protect and restore healthy attributes 

Meadowquat® HG



Fancorsil® LIM



Fancor® Abyssinian Oil

Perfuming - long lasting fragrance 

Meadowquat® HG

Protection of color

11



Meadowquat® HG



Fancorsil® LIM

Hair Manageability Most conditioning products claim to increase the manageability and combability of the hair due to lubrication and conditioning effect of the hair fibers. Improving the combability of the hair is perceived as the hair being in better condition. Better combability decreases the mechanical damage on the hair due to reduced combability force needed to untangle the hair, therefore, the combability of hair after treatment with conditioning agents provides an indicator if the effectiveness of the treatment is sufficient. To comb untreated Mulatto hair it is necessary to use almost 2000 gmf frictional force due to its kinky structure. FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil effectively increased the combability by reducing the needed force down to 1.5 % of the force initially needed for untreated Mulatto Hair. Single bleached Caucasian Hair, not treated with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil, offers an average of needed frictional force for combing between 100 - 120 gmf declared by TRI Princeton based on historical data. Compared to this data TRI Princeton treated Caucasian Hair with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil was able to reduce the needed force down to 12 gmf, a reduction of 88 %. Treatment of both Mulatto and Caucasian Hair with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil has a significant positive effect for conditioning and a better manageability of the hair.

Hair Shine The shine of the hair is a very highly appreciated attribute of healthy-looking hair and is often a claim of hair care products. FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil is a natural shine enhancer. It can be used as a natural replacement to synthetic oils like silicones in Hair Care products where shine and luster is needed. Shine can be quantified by the intensity of light reflected from a curved hair surface. A narrow distribution of light reflection indicates a higher intensity of shine. The SAMBA device by Bossa Nova was used to quantify the shine enhancement.

12

Hair Repair and Reconstruction FANCORSIL® LIM facilitates the repair of the hair fiber’s outer surface to achieve natural realignment of the cuticular plates. When treated with a solution of 5% FANCORSIL® LIM –1, cuticle repair is clearly evident.

Control: damaged hair fiber

Test: damaged hair fiber treated with LIM-1

FANCORSIL® LIM has also been shown to realign the internal hair structure.

Because of it’s ability to penetrate the hair fiber, LIM is capable of improving hair strength. The effect was measured in all types of hair treatments including shampoos, conditioning treatments, hair relaxers and hair color. In each case, the addition of FANCORSIL® LIM improved the strength of the hair fiber, significantly increasing the force needed to break the hair. When compared to Dimethicone Copolyol (DMC), the strength of unprocessed hair was improved by 28%.

13

Prevention of Damage When applied to hair at a level as low as 1%, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 prevents damage and repairs damaged hair. With its long-chain fatty acids and unique diamido configuration, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 has the ability to repair hair that has been severely damaged by extreme heat and harsh chemicals. The operative factors responsible for this product’s superior conditioning abilities are the unsaturated fatty acids that form the backbone of this material. Virgin brown hair tresses were subject to heat damage by passing a pressing comb over each tress 80 times at 110°C. Tresses were treated with a solution of 1% MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 and blotted dry before the hot comb treatment. In the photos below, it can be seen that the hair treated with MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 prevents damage.

Improved Hair Color Durability MEADOWQUAT® HG-70, a mild diamido-lipid-rich quaternium nitrogen ingredient for personal care products, is very effective not only in the conditioning process but also in its ability to sustain hair color and prevent wash-out. MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 is derived from a natural source and is functionally substantive, biodegradable, and stable in hydrogen peroxide (hair color developers) and sodium hydroxide (relaxers). When incorporated into hair color at a level of 2% to 3%, MEADOWQUAT® HG-70 enhances color intensity and significantly improves durability.

Hair color durability after 20 washings

14

5

COLOR CARE SHAMPOO A

H-1008-01

Deionized Water

Water

Dissolvine Na2 (Akzo Nobel)

Disodium EDTA

Panthenol B

55.55 0.10 0.10

Standapol ES-2 (BASF)

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

23.00

Tegobetaine F50 (Evonik)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

7.50

Plantacare 818 (BASF)

Coco-Glucoside

5.00

Ninol M10 (Stepan)

Cocamide MIPA

1.50

FANCORSIL® LIM-1 (Elementis Specialties)

Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate

2.00

Crothix (Croda)

PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate

1.00

Euperlan PK4000 (BASF)

Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and)

2.00

Cocamidopropyl Betaine C

MEADOWQUAT® HG-70

PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate 2.00

(Elementis Specialties) D

Troycare BC04 (Troy Corp)

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and)

0.05

Methylisothiazolinone Fresh Floral Honeydew Fragrance

Fragrance

0.20

Procedure:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C with propeller mixing. Add phase “B” ingredients to to phase “A” one at a timewith propeller mixing. Cool to 40°C with mixing. Add phase “C” to batch Add phase D to batch and cool to ambient temperature

Viscosity: pH:

RV #5 @ 50rpm 3,000—5,000cps 4.8—5.2

HAIR GLOSSING SERUM A

H-1003-01

FANCORSIL® A (Elementis Specialties)

Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone

57.00

Silsoft 034 (Momentive Silicones)

Caprylyl Methicone

17.00

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

2.00

(Elementis Specialties) Xiameter-0245 Fluid (Dow Corning)

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane

Neo Heliopan AV (Symrise)

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix well after each addition. 2. Package as desired.

15

23.00 1.00

6

COLOR CARE DAILY CONDITIONER A

Deionized Water

H-1007-01

Water

83.90

Butylene Glycol Spectrastat (Inolex)

2.50 Caprylyl Glycol (and) Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and)

0.90

Glycerin Calcium Pantothenate (BASF) B

0.20

Incroquat Behenyl TMS PA (Croda)

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate

5.00

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

1.00

(Elementis Specialties)

C

Isopropyl Palmitate

1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol (Croda)

1.50

FANCORSIL® LIM-2 (Elementis Specialties)

Dimethicone Meadowfoamate

1.00

Xiameter-0245 Fluid (Dow Corning)

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane

2.00

MEADOWQUAT® HG-70

PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium

1.00

(Elementis Specialties)

Methosulfate

Procedure:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C with propeller mixing. Heat phase “B” to 80°C and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing. Cool to 45°C with mixing. Add phase “C” to batch. Cool to 30°C. Package as desired.

Viscosity: RV T-D @ 20 rpm 10,500—12,500cps pH: 5.8—6.2

NOURISHING HAIR OIL A

H-1004-01

FANCOL® ID-CG (Elementis Specialties)

Isododecane

84.80

FANCORSIL® A (Elementis Specialties)

Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone

10.00

Anti-Aging Hair Complex

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated

(Elementis Specialties)

Polyisobutene (and) PEG-2

4.00

Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Oleas Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables Neo Heliopan AV (Symrise)

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnimate

1.00

Fresh Floral Honeydew Fragrance

Fragrance

0.20

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix well after each addition 2. Package as desired.

16

ANTI-AGING CONDITIONER A

H-1002-01

Deionized Water

Water

Kerabase (Inolex)

Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicamidopropyl

85.50 8.00

Dimethylamine (and) Polyester-11 (and) Aspartic Acid (and) EDTA Panthenol (BASF) B

FANCOL ®POLYISO ®250-CG

0.50 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

2.00

Anti-Aging Hair Complex

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated

2.00

(Elementis Specialties)

Polyisobutene (and) PEG-2

(Elementis Specialties)

Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Oleas Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables C

Spectrastat (Inolex)

Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and)

1.00

Caprylyl Glycol (and) Glycerin FANCORSIL® LIM-2

Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate

1.00

Procedure:

1. Combine phase “A” ingredients and mix with moderate speed propeller mixing. Heat to 80-85°C and hold for 10-15 minutes 2. 3. 4. 5.

with mixing. Keep vessel covered. Combine phase “B” and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing. Begin cooling. At 60°C, add phase “C” ingredients to batch. Cool to 30°C with moderate speed propeller mixing.

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH HEAT PROTECTION A

Deionized Water

Water

Varisoft BT-85 (Evonik)

Behentrimonium Chloride

H-1006-01 91.50 1.50

Cetearyl Alcohol (Croda)

3.00

Propylene Glycol

1.00

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

0.50

Dimehticone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate

1.00

(Elementis Specialties) FANCORSIL® LIM-1 Panthenol (BASF) B

0.10

Troycare BD55 (Troy Corp)

DMDM Hydantoin

0.30

Troycare FL10 (Troy Corp)

Iodoopropynyl Butylcarbamate

0.10

Procedure:

1. 2. 3. 4.

Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C with propeller mixing. Cool to 40°C with continued mixing. Add phase B to phase “A” with moderate speed propeller mixing,. Cool to ambient Temperature.

Viscosity: RV #3 @ 20rpm 1,000—1,500cps pH: 4.3—4.7

RESTORATIVE HAIR MASK A

B

Deionized Water

H-1005-01 Water

82.15

Calcium Pantothenate (BASF)

0.20

Glycerin

2.00

Varisoft BT85 (Evonik)

Behentrimonium Chloride

2.25

Incroquat Behenyl TMS PA (Croda)

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate

3.00

Polawax NF (Croda)

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60

1.00

Anti-Aging Hair Complex

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated

3.00

(Elementis Specialties)

Polyisobutene (and) PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Oleas Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables

Cetearyl Alcohol (Croda)

C

2.00

Botanisil DM-90 (Botanigenics)

Dimethicone

1.00

FANCORSIL® LIM-2 (Elementis Specialties)

Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate

1.00

Silsoft 034 (Momentive Silicones)

Caprylyl Methicone

2.00

Troycare BD55 (Troy Corp)

DMDM Hydantoin

0.30

Troycare FL10 (Troy Corp)

Iodoopropynyl Butylcarbamate

0.10

Procedure:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Combine phase “A” ingredients and heat to 80°C with propeller mixing. Heat phase “B” to 80°C and add to phase “A” with propeller mixing. Cool to 45°C with mixing. Add phase “C” to batch. Cool to 30°C. Package as desired.

Viscosity: RV T-E @ 20 rpm 50,000—60,000cps pH: 4.6—5.0

18

Color Cosmetics Technologies The category of color cosmetics covers a wide range of product types, anything that contains pigment, but regardless the form, they must deliver uniform color, apply easily and remain stable under various conditions. Bentone Gel® systems provide a stable matrix to suspend pigments, improve stability and flow properties of cosmetics. The solvent system in Bentone Gels® provide emolliency, aid in pigment wetting, may provide gloss and improved aesthetics. A variety of Bentone Gel® systems are available to meet your formulation needs. Natural emollients such as Fancor Abyssinian Oil® and Fancor ® Meadowfoam Seed Oil provide improved skin feel, enhanced pigment wetting and imparts a natural luster to the skin.

Benefits of Bentone Gel®

19



Suspension of pigments



Improves stability and viscosity



Improves application



Thermostable viscosity control



Enhances feel properties

Pigment Dispersion BENTONE GEL® PTIS V offers a lubricating emollient effect, improved pigment dispersion and improved coverage

Pigment Suspension

Pigment dispersion without Bentone Gel

Pigment dispersion with Bentone Gel PTIS V

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) obtained from Sun Chemicals was suspended in Abyssinian oil, Abyssinian oil/Castor oil 50:50 blend and Castor oil at a concentration of 30% (w/w). The resultant appearance of the pigment dispersion can be observed below.

Abyssinian oil

Abyssinian/ Castor oil Castor 50:50 blend

The results of the viscosity studies help explain the improved dispersion of (TiO2) in the Abyssinian oil compared to castor oil. As can be seen in the following chart and graph, and as expected the castor oil had a higher initial viscosity than did Abyssinian oil and in both cases the addition of the pigment increased the viscosity of the system. However, in the case of castor oil the viscosity continued to increase as the dispersion sat at room temperature for 24 hours in contrast to the Abyssinian oil dispersion which decreased in viscosity over the same time period. This decrease in viscosity for the Abyssinian oil dispersion reflects the improved dispersion properties which generates a stable, small particle size, even distribution of pigment.

20

CC CREAM MULTIFUNCTIONAL HYDRATOR A

B

Deionized Water

C-1001-01

Water

50.95

Sodium Chloride

1.00

Glycerin

2.00 ®

BENTONE GEL ABO V (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium

6.45

Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Imwittor 600 (Sasol)

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

3.00

Neo Heliopan Type AV

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

7.50

Vitamin E Acetate

Tocpheryl Acetate

0.10

AFRICAN HYDRATION COMPLEX

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Crambe

3.00

(Elementis Specialties)

Abyssinica Seed Oil, (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Lecithin

C

Wickenol 151 (Alzo)

Isononyl Isononanoate

4.50

Crodamol ISNP-LQ (Croda)

Isostearyl Neopentanoate

4.50

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

6.00

Unipure Black LC989 (Sensient)

Iron Oxides

0.75

Unipure Red LC381 (Sensient)

Iron Oxides

1.40

Unipure Yellow LC182 (Sensient)

Iron Oxides

2.35

Unipure White (Sensient)

Iron Oxides

2.50

Tyrostat (Lucas Meyer)

Rumex Occidentalis Extract

1.00

Exo-T (Lucas Meyer)

Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate 2.00

Euxyl K701 (Shulke & Mayr)

Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and)

®

FANCOR ABYSSINIAN OIL (Elementis Specialties)

D

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Procedure: 1.

Premix Part A and Part B separately and heat to each 80-85°C.

2.

Add Part A into Part B with dispermat for 10 minutes to form the emulsion.

3.

Premix Part C and slowly add into Part A & B while cooling to 50°C-55°C.

4.

Transfer to Silverson Homogenizer for 1-3 minus, until the pigments fully dispersed.

5.

Transfer to a propeller mixer and cool down to below 40°C.

6.

Add Part D ingredients to the batch and mix well.

Viscosity:

21

13,000cps (RV Spindle T-E, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)

1.00

LIGHT MOISTURIZING BB CREAM WITH SPF 30++ A

B

C

BENTONE GEL® VS-5 PC V (Elementis Specialties) THIXCIN® R (Elementis Specialties) Abil EM90 (Evonik) KF6017 (Shin Etsu) FANCOL® POLYISO® 275 CG (Elementis Specialties) ANTI-AGING SKIN COMPLEX (Elementis Specialties)

FANCOR® ABYSSINIAN OIL (Elementis Specialties) Beeswax (Strahl & Pitsch) Wickenol 151 (Alzo Inc) Crodamol ISNP-LQ (Croda) Finsolv TN (Innospec) NANOX 200 (Elementis Specialties) Water Glycerin Tween 20 (Croda) Butylene Glycol Sodium Chloride TNP50T7 (Kobo) FAS70USI-E (Kobo)

FAS55ERSI-E (Kobo)

FAS50EYSI-E (Kobo)

FAS60EBSI-E (Kobo)

D

BY 3129-92

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hedtorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Trihydroxystearin Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone PEG-10 Dimethicone Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

5.60

Meadowfoam Estolide (and) Meadowfoam Delta-Lactone (and) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Beta-Sitosterol Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

3.00

Isononyl Isononanoate Isostearyl Neopentanoate C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Zinc Oxide

Polysorbate 20

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Methicone Titanium Dioxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Tocopherol Acetate Iron Oxides [C.I. 77491] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Tocopherol Acetate Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Tocopherol Acetate Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Tocopherol Acetate

Preservative

1.50 3.50 2.00 1.50

3.00 1.00 4.50 4.50 1.35 1.65 37.23 3.00 2.00 3.00 1.00 10.00 6.00

0.81

3.26

0.10

qs

Procedure: 1.

Premix Part A and Part B separately and heat to each 75°C.

2.

Add Part B into Part A with higher share for 10-15 minutes.

3.

Premix Part C and slowly add into Part A & B and cool down to 50°C-55°C.

4.

Transfer to Silverson Homogenizer for 1-3 minus, until the pigments fully dispersed

5.

Transfer to a propeller mixer and cool down to below 40°C.

6.

Add Part D to the batch and mix well.

Viscosity: 18300 cps (RV Spindle #6, 20 rpm, 30s, 22oC)

22

OIL BASED EYE SHADOW A

®

FANCOL ID-CG (Elementis Specialties)

C-2000-02 Isododecane

43.80

BENTONE GEL® ISD V (Elementis Specialties) Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Chloride (and)

10.00

Propylene Carbonate Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides

B

10.00

Ozokerite

8.00

Carnauba Wax

5.00

Beeswax

2.00

Propylparaben

0.20

SunPrizma Concord Crush (Sun Chemical)

Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide

Timiron Pearl Flake (EMD)

Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide

10.00 5.00

Nylon-12 C

®

Rheoluxe 880 (Elementis Specialties)

1.00 Bis-C16-20 Isoalkoxy TMHDI/PEG-90 Copolymer

5.00

Procedure: 1.

Combine Phase A and heat to 75-80°C.

2.

Mix Phase A togther using a Silverson Homogeniser.

3.

Add Phase B and continue to mix for 15 minutes.

4.

Transfer product to a stirrer.

5.

Add Phase C at 1000rpm.

6.

Increase speed to 2000rpm and mix for 10 minutes.

7. Pour off and allow to cool.

MOISTURIZING CREAM LIPSTICK A

C-1000-01

Red 6 Lake CI 15850:2

Water

6.00

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

25.00

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

22.85

(Elementis Specialties) Emcon® CO (Elementis Specialties)

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Koster Keunen) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Koster Keunen)

4.00

Cera Alba (Beeswax) Strahl & Pitsch

2.00

Multiwax 180-W (Sonneborn)

Microcrystalline Wax

Finsolv TN (Innospec)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

BENTONE GEL® TN-V (Elementis Specialties)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite

6.30 5.60 7.75 10.00

(and) Propylene Carbonate B

Talc (US Cosmetics)

5.00

Mica S-12 (Kobo)

2.00

Meadowestolide® (Elementis Specialties)

Meadowfoam Estolide

3.00

Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr)

Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and)

0.50

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Procedure: 1.

Premix Red 6 Lake with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil until pigment is completely wetted and dispersed with no agglomerations.

2.

Heat Phase B to 85°C and mix until homogeneous.

3.

At 85°C combine pigment premix Phase A and Phase B until thoroughly uniform.

4.

Cool to 65°C and fill into molds or appropriate packaging.

KR10/22

LONG WEAR MASCARA A

B

Water

52.75

BENTONE® LT (Elementis Specialties)

Hectorite (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose

0.75

FANCORSIL® LIM-1 (Elementis Specialties)

Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate

3.00

Luviskol VA64 (BASF)

VP/VA Copolymer

8.00

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine

1.00

Preservative C

FANCOL® POLYISO® 275-CG

qs Hydrogentated Polyisobutene

2.00

(Elementis Specialties) Sunchroma Black Iron Oxide (Sun Chemicals) Irox Oxides

6.00

Copernicia (Carnauba) Wax (Koster Keunen)

5.00

Beeswax (Azelis)

5.00

Cutina MD (BASF)

Glyceryl Stearate

5.00

Snow White Pet USP (Calumet)

Petrolatum

4.00

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Koster Keunen)

3.00

Stearic Acid

2.00

Tween 20 (Croda)

Polysorbate 20

2.50

Procedure: 1.

Premix Red 6 Lake with FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil until pigment is completely wetted and dispersed with no agglomerations.

2.

Heat Phase B to 85°C and mix until homogeneous.

3. 4.

At 85°C combine pigment premix Phase A and Phase B until thoroughly uniform. Cool to 65°C and fill into molds or appropriate packaging.

LIP GLOSS A

KR9/135B

BENTONE GEL® ABO V (Elementis Specialties) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Stearalkonium

3.50

Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate MEADOWESTOLIDE® (Elementis Specialties)

Meadowfoam Estolide

Snow White Pet (Calumet)

Petrolatum

Colorona Red Brown (EMD)

Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide

7.50

Syncrowax HGLC (Croda)

C18-36 Acid Triglyceride

2.00

Iron Oxide Yellow

Iron Oxides

Preservative B

FANCOR® Abyssinian Oil

3.00 12.90

0.30 qs

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

64.60

(Elementis Specialties) Red 6 Lake (Sun Chemicals)

0.60

Red 7 Lake (Sun Chemicals)

0.60

Procedure: 1. 2.

3.

Heat Phase A to 85°C and mix. Add premixed Phase B and mix. Cool to 55°C and fill.

24

The information in this publication is, to the best of our knowledge, true and accurate, but since the conditions of use are beyond our control, no warranty is given or to be implied in respect of such information. In every case, caution must be exercised to avoid violation or infringement of statutory obligations and any rights belonging to a third party. We are, at all time, willing to study customers’ specific outlets involving our products in order to enable their most effective use. ©Copyright 2015, Elementis Specialties, Inc. All rights reserved. Copying and/or downloading of this document or information therein for republication is not allowed unless prior written agreement is obtained from Elementis Specialties, Inc.

For more details please contact: AMERICAS

Elementis Specialties 469 Old Trenton Road East Windsor New Jersey 08512

Tel:

+1.609.443 2500

Fax:

+1.609.443.2446

EUROPE

Elementis GmbH Stolberger Strasse 370 50933 Cologne Germany Tel:

+49.221.2923.2000

Fax:

+49.221.2923.2011

1-2015