ARIANOR ® Basic Dyes Semi-permanent applications for hair care and hair color Sensient Cosmetic Technologies P. Vesque – Senior R&D Hair Color Manager July, 7th 2016
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Introduction Basic dyes have been recently allowed in Korea offering the possibility to formulate new hair care and hair color products.
Sensient’s Expertise Sensient Cosmetic Technologies is a market leader for hair dyes. We have a long experience in developing, producing and supplying
semi-permanent dyes. Our main factories are based in France, United Kingdom and United States. We are capable to supply customers from our local
business units all around the world. Sensient has also a serious expertise in hair coloring products, providing customers with innovative applications, as well as strong regulatory and analytical support.
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
2
Introduction HAIR COLOR CATEGORIES
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Temporary
Semi Permanent
Demi Permanent
Permanent
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
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THE DIFFERENT FAMILIES OF HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS TEMPORARY
SEMI-PERMANENT
DEMI-PERMANENT
PERMANENT
LEVEL 0
LEVEL 1
LEVEL 2
LEVEL 3
1-2 shampoos
6-8 shampoos
6-8 weeks
Permanent
Lightening effect
No
No
No
Yes
Coverage of grey hair
Yes (with pigments)
For people who have Max.30% (the first)
For people who have Max.50%
For people who have till 100%
Colour properties
Only highlights
Same tone or darker With/without highlights
Same tone or darker With/without highlights
Lighter, same tone or darker With/without highlights
Long lasting properties
Finished product
Ready to use
Coloring agents
PIGMENTS , PEARLS (or) HAIR DYES
Ready to use Time of application Rinse-off
HAIR DYES
Mixture to do before use : 1 colouring product + 1 oxidizing product Ratio to respect Time of application Rinse-off + shampoo
(OXIDATION) HAIR DYES
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Arianor® range 7 grades adapted to non oxidative applications for hair care and hair color products Stable from pH 4 to 9 Mahogany 306002
Madder Red 306003
Straw Yellow 306005
Sienna Brown 306011
Steel Blue 306014
Tyrian Purple 306021
Ebony 306020
Basic Brown 16
Basic Red 76
Basic Yellow 57
Basic Brown 17
Basic Blue 99
Mixture
Mixture
CAS N°
26381-41-9
68391-30-0
68391-31-1
68391-32-2
68123-13-7
68123-13-7 77061-58-6
68123-13-7, 26381-41-9, 4430-18-6, 68391-30-0, 68391-31-1
EC N°
247-640-9
269-941-4
269-943-5
269-944-0
268-544-3
268-544-3 278-601-4
268-544-3, 247-640-9, 224-618-7, 269-941-4, 269-943-5
Arianor Name
INCI Name
Structure
Color
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
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Arianor® range 4 grades adapted to non oxidative and oxidative applications for Intense and Flashy colors Stable from pH 4 to 11 for Fire Orange, Lemon Yellow and Cherry Red Stable from pH 3 to 7 for Jade Blue Stable from pH 3 to 9 for Magenta
Fire Orange 306081
Lemon Yellow 306087 / 306087SC
Cherry Red 306008
Jade Blue 306085
Magenta 306082
Basic Orange 31
Basic Yellow 87
Basic Red 51
HC Blue15
Basic Violet 2
CAS N°
97404-02-9
68259-00-7
77061-58-6
74578-10-2
3248-91-7
EC N°
306-764-4
269-503-2
278-601-4
277-929-5
221-831-7
Arianor Name INCI Name
Structure
Color
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
6
Regulatory status ARIANOR RANGE
EUROPE
USA
JAPAN
CHINA
KOREA
Regulation 1223/2009 Annexe III
21 CFR
JSCI
HSC, Annexe 7
NEW entries in regulation
306002
Arianor Mahogany
Basic Brown 16 Pending
Basic Brown 16 (CI 12250)
Cat 2, cat 3
Not permitted
Max % in use: 100
306003
Arianor Madder Red
Basic Red 76 III,267 (2,0% max in non oxidative)
Basic Red 76 (CI 12245)
Cat 2, cat 3
7-49 (2% max)
Max % in use: 2,0
306014
Arianor Steel Blue
Basic Blue 99 Pending
Basic Blue 99 (CI 56059) IJT 26(Suppl. 2):51-63, 2007
Cat 2, cat 3
Not permitted
Max % in use: 100
306005
Arianor Straw Yellow
Basic Yellow 57 III,262 (2% max in non oxidative)
Basic Yellow 57 (CI 12719)
Cat 2, cat 3
Not permitted
Max % in use: 2,0
306008
Arianor Cherry Red
Basic Red 51 III,268 (0,5% max in ox; 1% max in non oxidative)
Basic Red 51
Cat 3
Basic Red 51 7-48 (0,2 % max in finished product; 0,1% when applied in mixture with oxidant)
Max % in use: 1,0
306011
Arianor Sienna Brown
Basic Brown 17 Pending
Basic Brown 17 (CI 12251)
Cat 2, cat 3
Not permitted
Max % in use: 2,0
306020
Arianor Ebony
Steel Blue + Mahogany + Acid Violet 43 + Madder Red +Straw Yellow
306021
Arianor Tyrian Purple
Steel Blue + Cherry Red
Japan Cat 1: any manufacturers can use Cat 2: any manufacturers can use the following ingredients as Arianor dyes Cat 3: only manufacturers who have safety data can use
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
China: Hygienic Standard for Cosmetics 2007
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
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Regulatory status ARIANOR RANGE
EUROPE
USA
JAPAN
CHINA
KOREA
Regulation 1223/2009 Annexe III
21 CFR
JSCI
HSC, Annexe 7
NEW entries in regulation
Max % in use: 1,0
Basic Orange 31
Cat 3
Basic Orange 31 7-47 (0,2 % max in finished product; 0,1% when applied in mixture with oxidant)
306081
Arianor Fire Orange
Basic Orange 31 III,276 (0,5% max in ox; 1% max in non oxidative)
306082
Arianor Magenta
Basic Violet 2 III, 278 (1 max in ox; 0,5 max in non oxidative)
Basic Violet 2
Cat 3
Not permitted
Max % in use: 0,5
306085
Arianor Jade Blue
HC Blue 15 III, 289 (0,5% max in ox; 0,5% max in non oxidative)
HC Blue 15
Cat 3
Not permitted
Max % in use: 0,2
Cat 3
Basic Yellow 87 7-51 (0,2 % max in finished product; 0,1% when applied in mixture with oxidant)
Max % in use: 1,0
306087 & Arianor Lemon Yellow 306087SC
Basic Yellow 87 III,275 (1% max in ox; 1% max in non oxidative)
Basic Yellow 87
Japan Cat 1: any manufacturers can use Cat 2: any manufacturers can use the following ingredients as Arianor dyes Cat 3: only manufacturers who have safety data can use
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
China: Hygienic Standard for Cosmetics 2007
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
8
Semi-permanent application ARIANOR / BASIC DYES GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
Direct dyes
Cationic character Water soluble High molecular weights
Semi-permanent application Benefits – Low selectivity Similar substantivity to hair Minimises the risk of unexpected shades Minimises the risk in the wash out process Removed to a similar extent during washing An overall reduction in colour is obtained without significant shade changes
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
10
Semi-permanent application
HAIR COLOR Natural shades with or without highlights
HAIR CARE Black/Brown/Gold/ Red colors
Intense chromatic colors
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
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Semi-permanent applications “NO OXIDANT, NO PEROXIDE”
NEUTRALIZE unwanted color evolution Possibility of progressive coloring effect with repeated use
MAINTAIN, refresh existing colors
Main Presentations Shampoo Conditioner Mousse
pH of formulations
Time of application 5 – 15 minutes Maximum
Global market success
Hair Care « CC products: Care & Color »
pH 4 - 6
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SCT2087 Silver Conditioner Provides care and anti yellowish effect on bleached hair and natural gray hair
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Semi-permanent applications “NO OXIDANT, NO PEROXIDE”
Benefits
« CC products: Color & Care »
• Covers the first grey hair • Bring new highlights to natural or bleached hair (visible change)
Main Formats
HAIR COLOR
Time
of application
• O/W Emulsion • Gel • Mousse
• 10 – 20 minutes
• 4 -9.5 (according to dyes) • pH=6.0 recommended to of use all Arianor range) formulations pH
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SCT2083 Vibrante hair color cream Formulate natural shades and vibrant colors Application: Spread and let it act for 10 to 20 minutes for vibrante colors. Rinse with tap water until the water runs clear. Last: 10 to 12 shampoos (Level 1)
Rinse off product
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SCT2070 Hair color corrector Leave on product
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Semi-permanent application Advises Color • Dyeing effect is a function of the pH • Best at pH= 5,5 - 9,5 (except for Arianor Cherry Red, Fire Orange and lemon Yellow: pH 4 – 11, Jade Blue pH 3 -7, Magenta pH 3-9) • Low selectivity Aspect • Surfactant selection: prefer amphoteric or non ionic to anionic surfactants • Salt: can reduce color uptake or can opacify shampoo formulation • Check pH evolution: use buffering system Side effect
• Possible staining formulation with high concentrations of dye
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
17
Oxidative application Specific use in oxidative condition for Arianor Cherry Red, Arianor Fire Orange and Arianor Lemon Yellow
Stability • Don’t use in the same product with oxidation dyes and reducers
Color • Professional product: chromatic color for rays or to mix with other shades to boost highlights • Mass market product: small container with dye in water based to mix with a classic oxidation product before use (3 products to mix)
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
18
Oxidative application TW1892A Chromatic Oxidation Cream
Application: mix 1part of coloring cream + 3 parts of developer (oxidant)
Introduction
Arianor range
Regulatory status
Specifications
Semi-permanent application
Additives
Oxidative application
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Thank you!
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ANNEX
Specifications Analysis
Method
Sienna Brown
Mahogany
Madder Red
Straw Yellow
Steel Blue
Ebony
Tyrian Purple
306011
306002
306003
306005
306014
306020
306021
Aspect
PASS
PASS
PASS
PASS
PASS
PASS
PASS
10-505
Spec - 98 to 100%
Spec - 99 to 100%
spec - 98 to 100%
Spec - 99 to 100%
spec - 63 to 100%
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NBTRI
10-506
< 0.1 %
< 0.1 %
< 500 ppm
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ONPD
10-506
< 50 ppm
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Dye % (HPLC) Impurities % (HPLC)
BR118
10-506
< 1.5 %
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---
---
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2-ANISIDINE
10-506
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< 2 ppm
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---
---
---
ATRI
10-506
---
---
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< 0.1 %
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---
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PMZ
10-506
---
---
---
< 0.1 %
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---
---
Volatile matter (90 °C)
10-503
< 10%
< 10%
< 10%
< 10%
< 10%
< 10%
< 10%
Maximum Absorbance (nm)
10-504
448 +/- 5 nm
482 +/- 5 nm
500 +/- 5 nm
384 +/- 5 nm
618 +/- 10 nm
575+/-10 nm
528+/-5 nm
Dye content %
(relative value)
10-504
100 +/- 2.5%
100 +/- 2.5%
100 +/- 2.5%
100 +/- 2.5%
100 +/- 2.5%
100 +/- 2.5%
100 +/- 2.5%
Metals
Arsenic (As)
10-507
