Croydon U3A Magazine

Summer 2016 The Third Age Trust (Operating as the University of the Third Age) Croydon U3A Reg. Charity No. 102946612

Website address www.u3asites.org.uk/croydon Available for purchase at General Meetings for £1

Table of Contents Editorial Chairman’s message Austrian Lakes and Tyrol Study Morning: History of Crystal Palace Visit to Mottisfont Reports from General Meetings: Cheeses Wandering in Flanders Fields The Tower of London and the Crown Jewels Groups: Architecture History of London 3 Wildflowers Painting for Pleasure Looking at London (Central) Maths Creative Writing: One Day Creation of Bangladesh My Croydon Rocket Propulsion Establishment Croydon Art Collection Remembering 1916 Rhyming monarchs

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Cover Picture – Statue of Archbishop Whitgift in Founders Garden, Whitgift School

Members who receive the Magazine online may on occasion wish to obtain a 'hard copy'. The Committee has therefore decided to have some copies available at General Meetings which online recipients can buy for £1. This is subject to sufficient copies being available.

Editorial I wonder how many members are familiar with the Judas Tree (Cercis siliquastrum)? It has now finished showing off its splendid magenta-coloured flowers. The name derives from the legend that Judas hanged himself from such a tree. They are not all that common. One grew near to where I live in Coulsdon, but new occupants of the house chopped it down – when it was not in flower. A few stems, with flowers, survived. There is one near the top of Plough Lane on the right hand side as you ascend from Purley; and one in the Queen’ s Garden, opposite the Town Hall. There is one in Wettern Tree Garden, Purley Oaks Road. If you know of other Judas Trees which can be seen from the road, you might like to let me know. The Crystal Palace study morning is featured in this issue. In the present café in the Park is a delightful mural: Crystal Palace Past and Present by ‘Vince and Julie’. But it may not be there much longer, as the café is to be rebuilt. If it disappears, it will be a shame. The geographical range of this issue is wide: from Croydon to Hampshire, Flanders, Austria, Bangladesh. Thank you to all our contributors. I’ll welcome contributions for the Autumn issue by 12 October. As you’ll see from this issue, they don’t have to be about U3A activities. Gordon Thynne Picture: Wettern Tree Garden (with Judas tree in background) by Barbara Lister 1

Chairman's Message Croydon U3A continues to grow and flourish, with our number of members exceeding 700, despite all the challenges we have had to overcome. We have made changes to the Annual Subscription to reflect the higher cost of postal communication, which will be reviewed annually. The new venues for General Meetings continue to provide us, quite literally, with an ‘uplifting’ experience and we greatly appreciate the improved resources and facilities. However the membership will be asked to vote later in the year for their preferred, future ‘permanent’ venue, which will give us more stability and no changes. Our lively, varied social programme is one of our strengths. Inviting new members to join us for coffee mornings is always worthwhile, and this year we will show our appreciation for the valuable contribution made by our Group Leaders and Volunteers by inviting them to lunch at Coombe Lodge. Monthly visits and outings continue to be very popular, and a recent holiday to Austria was very successful. We are looking forward to a varied programme of Summer Activities where you can sit back and listen to talks; learn about technology and social issues; experience different kinds of exercise or even be competitive in a quiz or board games – all for an entry fee of £1. Looking to the future, there will be compulsory changes of office for some Committee members in October 2017, and we would like to make this part of our forward-planning so that it can be a smooth transition. If you are interested or can help in any way, please contact us. I wish you all the very best for summer 2016.

Brenda Kidd

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Austrian Lakes and the Tyrol The Croydon U3A holiday in May to the Austrian Lakes and the Tyrol exceeded my expectations of the scenic beauty promised by the Company, One Traveller. Twenty of us met very early at Gatwick on May 21st and arrived for lunch at the comfortable hotel in the picturesque village of St Johann im Pongau, in Salzburgerland. Some of us had never been on a U3A holiday and did not know anyone else in the group, but by the end of our holiday we seemed like old friends.

Our guide, Jill, hailed from Lancashire but now lives with her family on the slopes of skiing country near Kitzbühel in the Tyrol. She was a wonderful guide, and she entertained us with anecdotes about coming to Austria to work, and her family. However she didn't let us off the hook, as we were given some German and Czech phrases to learn on the coach as we set off each morning. Winston, our excellent driver, was from the Czech Republic. One advantage of an early start meant that after a buffet lunch we visited the Liechenstein Gorge. The Grossarl mountain stream cascades through the 300m rocky gorge patterned with grey, sandstone and marbled rocks. 3

The paths, bridges and tunnel were about 1km long, ending in a glade. As well as the rushing water there was welcome birdsong and shafts of sunlight, a sharp contrast to the paths hewn in the rocks. The walk involved walking under a waterfall as well as crossing the chasm. Some of us took advantage of the special price of the Murmeltier Salbe (Marmot ointment) which is said to help joint and muscle pain, arthritis and bruises. On Sunday we enjoyed our first taster of the Austrian lakes when we visited the Unesco World Heritage site of Hallstatt, starting with a boat trip on the Hallstatter See, listed as one of Europe’s ten most beautiful lakes. Hallstatt’s wealth was founded on salt production. The world’s first salt mine dates from the early Iron Age 800-450 BC, with evidence of Celtic occupation and trade with the Romans. Hallstatt itself is a beautiful medieval village perched on the steep slopes where the salt deposits were found.

On the way back, we were able to walk round Lake Gosau through the dappled shade of the deciduous and pine woods, occasionally opening into the sunlight.

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There were some intrepid rock climbers rappelling up the sheer walls up from the side of the lake. There were various flowers along the path including primroses, wild strawberries, clover and blue flowers. The next day we went to Hohenwerfen castle, an imposing sight, built by Archbishop Gebhard in 1075 to defend the pass along the Salzach valley against Henry VI. The following day we travelled past meadows full of wild flowers, with farmers cutting hay, to Salzburg (Salt Fortress). It was largely undamaged in WWII and the old town is Baroque and Rococco. We had a local guide, aided by audio tapes which meant that we did not have to crowd around her. The cathedral had five organs, four around the central dome. As well as the old town, we saw the theatre where the Von Trapp family sang to raise money before the war. Some of us visited the Mozart museum and birthplace. It was amazing to see his first violin and pianoforte and to read about his parents and his work. In the evening we were entertained to a local folklore show: dancers in traditional dress and lederhosen, accompanied by an accordion and multipurpose instrument. We sat on the covered patio, wrapped up in blankets while the rain poured down. It was a colourful show and some children joined in the accompaniment using drum and rattle stick, usually in time with the music. Another evening we enjoyed a Mozart dinner concert in the candlelit baroque salon of St Peter’s Abbey in Salzburg. The soloists and string quartet were in traditional costume and sang arias from Don Giovanni, Le Nozze de Figaro and Die Zauberflöte, as well as playing the serenade from Eine Kleine Nachtmusik. On our trip along the toll road into the Postalm mountain plateau (a famous ski area) we were able to stop to admire the view of the snow-topped mountains, glaciers, and alpine flowers. This is the second largest highest massif plateau and area of continuous high pasture in Europe. We continued to the spa town of Bad Ischl and the beautiful Kaiserville, which the Archduchess We also visited Kitzbühel. The view of snow-capped mountains from the top of the ski-lift was wonderful. After a taste of the mountain air we enjoyed fabulous tea and cakes in the Grand Hotel in the town.

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We also visited Kitzbühel. The view of snow-capped mountains from the top of the ski-lift was wonderful. After a taste of the mountain air we enjoyed fabulous tea and cakes in the Grand Hotel in the town. Jill dispelled many of the myths in the Sound of Music. If the family had escaped over the mountain they would have gone straight into the Nazi-occupied Germany. The musical is not very popular in Austria but provides a busy tourist trail. We had a marvellous holiday, and were lucky with the weather. Many thanks to Trish for organising it and to my fellow travellers for their engaging company and sense of humour. I was left with a wish to visit Austria again. Camilla Wick [The above is a selection from Camilla’s account of the holiday - Editor.]

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Study Morning: History of Crystal Palace On 29 April, in the grand setting of the Braithwaite Hall, Ian Bevan held a 70 strong audience riveted by his account, with copious slides, of the triumphant and tragic history of the Crystal Palace. The Society of Arts (later the Royal Society of Arts) had arranged small exhibitions in the 1840’s to encourage good design. A fantastic exhibition in Paris in 1849 prompted the idea of something much grander in Britain. Prince Albert was an active supporter. Hyde Park was chosen as the location.

In a competition, all 245 designs for a temporary building were rejected. Into the breach stepped Joseph Paxton, who had built large greenhouses at Chatsworth. Work began in September 1850. By March the next year, the building was complete. It was a third of a mile long. The glass panels were four feet square. In the centre, a tall transept saved elm trees from being felled. Sparrows were a nuisance, thus giving the Duke of Wellington the opportunity to advise Queen Victoria, ‘Sparrowhawks, Ma’am’. (An apocryphal story.) The Queen, unused to mixing with the commonalty, opened the Great Exhibition on 1 May 1851. The price of entry started at £1, was reduced to two shillings and sixpence, and then, on certain days, to one shilling. Over the next six months, facilitated by the spreading of the railway network, six million people came. One 84 year old lady walked all the way from Cornwall. 7

There were over 100,000 exhibits. One half of the exhibition was devoted to the arts and manufactures of Britain and the Empire: the most popular exhibit was a workshop with machines spinning cotton. Ian’s slides showed the opulence and variety of the many ‘courts’ and galleries. Women’s long skirts were effective in dusting the floor. There were cafes, but no alcohol. Public toilets were provided: free for men, one penny for women. The exhibition closed on 15 October 1851. The profit of £186,000 [equivalent to £18m today], was put towards the building of the Museums of South Kensington and the Albert Hall. A Crystal Palace company was formed to re-erect the building on Sydenham Hill. Six thousand workers, many of them Irish, were employed. The building differed in important respects from that in Hyde Park: the roof was curved, there were three transepts and two wings. The surface area was much bigger. You could take a historical walk covering 4,000 years from the Egyptian Court, through the Greek, Roman and Medieval Courts to the Elizabethan. Paxton had visionary plans for the whole park. To provide a sufficient pressure of water for the many fountains, two water towers were erected, each 284 feet high. But the pumping was so expensive, the fountains rarely played. The re-erection had cost £1.3m. But the expected thousands of visitors failed to arrive. In 1866 a fire damaged the north end, but the Company couldn’t afford to rebuild it. Attempts were made to extend the attractions. A Handel Festival was held every three years. Going up in a balloon was popular. You could see trapeze artists, Blondin the tight rope walker, circuses, boxing and, outside, fireworks tableaux, athletics, cricket and football. From 1895 the FA Cup Final was held there till 1914. In 1920 the Company went bust. Sir Henry Buckland was appointed Managing Director and tried to revive the Palace’s fortunes. An innovation was shows of hobbies and pets. Ian showed a slide of the Palace with a notice that the Cat Show would open on 1 December 1936. It was not to be: the Palace was burnt down on 30 November. The cause was not established, but could have been an electrical fault. The fire quickly spread under the wooden flooring. Sir Henry watched from the other side of the Parade as 400 firemen struggled in vain. The Crystal Palace Museum, on Anerley Hill, was established in 1982. Gordon Thynne 8

Visit to Mottisfont Abbey A full coach left Croydon on Friday 10 June bound for this ‘Abbey’, a country house in the care of the National Trust. It lies in the valley of the River Test north of Ramsey in Hampshire. From the M3 we reached it via rolling country roads, with distant views before dipping down into villages. On arrival, I was dismayed by the number of cars in the car park, but this was after all the time when Mottisfont’s pride and joy, the rose garden, could be expected to be at its best. Leaving that pleasure for later, some of us made first for the house. It incorporates the nave of the former Augustinian Priory, dissolved by that archdespoiler, Henry VIII, and handed to his trusty servant and friend, William Sandys. There are clues here and there: a bit of medieval masonry peeping out of an interior wall; buttresses on the north front; an arched doorway; and the vaulted cellarium which would have served as the larder. There’s little evidence of Sandys’ Tudor mansion. The present house derives from a rebuild in the 18th century. The Georgian south front is welcoming: pale pink brick flanked by light grey stone projections. It looks out on to lawns and trees, including giant planes probably planted in the first half of the last century. Beyond is the fast flowing stream, a man-made channel from the River Test. Nearer at hand is the spring: a deep pool from which water flows continually. The Saxons held ‘moots’ or meetings, and the name ‘Mottisfont’ may mean a meeting place by the ‘font’ or natural spring. The estate was bought by Gilbert Russell, a merchant banker, in 1934. His wife, who was 16 years younger, hankered after a country house for weekend entertaining. Maud was already very interested in contemporary art. Amongst her guests were writers and artists. The former included Ian Fleming. 9

Amongst the latter was Boris Anrep, a Russian who specialised in mosaics. His work can be seen in the vestibule floors of the National Gallery and at Westminster Cathedral. At Mottisfont, tucked away at the front is a life-size mosaic of an angel, the face depicting Maud. The guide book describes their relationship as a ‘long-lasting love affair’. (What did Gilbert think?) Another visiting artist was Rex Whistler. He exercised his genius for ‘trompe l’oeil’ - wall paintings which deceive the eye into thinking it sees the real thing: a vaulted ceiling, pelmets, armorial trophies and a cornice with, it seems, the artist’s paint pot and brush awaiting his return. He did not return: he was killed in Normandy in 1944. Then the climax: the walled rose garden. In the 1970’s Graham Stuart Thomas, Gardens Adviser to the National Trust, established a collection of pre-1900 shrub roses. He interspersed herbaceous perennials to provide contrast, and interest when the roses were not in flower. The main gravel paths meet at a round pond and fountain in the centre. It’s a garden which has you reaching for superlatives. But let’s just say it is perfect - a glimpse of Paradise. Thanks, Annette and Margaret! Gordon Thynne 10

Reports from General Meetings Cheeses John Pearson’s talk to the General Meeting on 13 April was about more than cheeses. As a Technologist for M & S he had begun in the Bread Department. He was sent to Paris to find out why French bread was crustier than British. He said it was not due to a difference in the constituents of the bread but to its freshness: bakers would bake twice a day. While he was there, M & S opened their first shop in Paris. Labels had, of course, to be in French. However, literal translation has its dangers, witness the translation of ‘preservative’ as ‘preservatif’, which has a totally unexpected meaning. (This respectable publication leaves it to your imagination.) John was transferred to the Wine Department in 1981, the year that Derek Rayner became head of M & S. Rayner suggested latching on to the publicity generated by a trade mission to Argentine by importing wine from there. Unfortunately the Falklands War intervened. Rayner thought it imprudent to sell Argentinian wine in the circumstances, and the order was sold on to Oddbins. The latter used the politically incorrect advertisement: ‘Sink an Argentinian tonight’. John’s third assignment was Dairy. Most dairies in Britain are in the west, where the rainfall is higher. We are the biggest consumers of fresh milk in the European Union. Although there has been a huge growth in cheese-making (with a wider variety than in France), we are not great consumers: in the EU only the Irish eat less cheese than us. However, we eat more Brie than the French, who prefer Camembert. John gave the make-up of fresh milk as: 4% fat, 3% saturated fat, 4% protein, 4% lactose and 88% water. Cheese-making involves concentrating the fat and protein. Even low-fat cheeses contain 3%. There is no lactose in cheese. In response to a question, John explained that acting as a judge at cheese competitions, it was not a case of finding the cheese he liked best, but finding the one that had most completely the characteristics expected of that cheese. Some cheese competitions are huge: the annual one at Nantwich has an array of 4 ½ thousand cheeses. Such a competition requires a large number of judges. 11

John’s sense of humour extended to stories against himself. One was the idea of a Christmas presentation box for men containing wine, tea, cheeses etc. Those for sale were kept in refrigerated conditions, whilst dummy boxes (with coloured water for wine) were on display. Unfortunately about 50 of the dummy ones were sold, to the annoyance of customers and the embarrassment of John. John presents cheese tasting sessions for small groups. (His e mail address is: [email protected], and his phone number is 01895 676594.) Gordon Thynne

Wandering in Flanders Fields At the May General Meeting, Melanie Gibson-Barton gave an intriguing talk about visiting various places in Flanders, telling us of their history and significance. She began with a visit to the grave of her great uncle, George Arber who was buried in Essex Farm Cemetery, Boezinge, a village close to Ypres. Essex Farm is famous as being the setting for Major John McCrae’s poem ‘In Flanders Field’. Its opening line, ‘In Flanders fields the poppies blow, Between the crosses, row on row,’ was a major influence on the Haig fund choosing the poppy as its emblem. When travelling through Flanders look out for the white diamond Albertine explaining the significance of a site. The name comes from Albert, King of the Belgians at the time of the First World War. The German advance was halted when the Yser River was flooded. Thus West Flanders was the only part of Belgium not to be occupied by the German army. The first trenches were dug in front of the city of Ypres. The trenches at Sanctuary Wood can be visited, as can the more recently uncovered Yorkshire Trench which is in the middle of an industrial estate. In the area near the front line the bakery tower was used as an observation tower, as was a false church and metal trees. At Steenstrate near Zuidschote there is a monument to the Van Raemdonck Brothers, which became a gathering place for Flemish nationalists. The two sergeants were both killed on the night of 25/26 March 1917. According to some stories their bodies were found arm in arm. 12

Joe English, a naturalised Belgian artist from Bruges, drew their image which helped to popularise the legend. The Island of Ireland Peace Tower and Park in Messines commemorate all those born in Ireland who fought with any of the armies during the Great War. The tower and park were opened on November 11th 1998 by the President of Ireland, HM the Queen and Albert II, King of Belgium. One of the most famous sights is the Menim Gate. This impressive structure bears the names of 54,395 Commonwealth soldiers who died on the Ypres Salient and have no known grave. At 8pm every evening buglers sound the last post in memory of the fallen. The evening of Melanie’s talk was the 30,301st Last Post ceremony. In the town of Poperinge the Reverend “Tubby” Clayton opened a hostel which was open to soldiers of all ranks. In addition to a chapel there was also a library where soldiers could borrow books by leaving their cap badges as a ticket. This was the start of Toc H. On a lighter note, the village of Beselere has an annual parade of witches. This includes local witches of legend and folklore as well as fairy tale witches. Among the thousands of revellers who attend I expect there are now many a Harry and Hermione. The event ends with a witch being sent to the stake. I was unable to discover what this now entailed, and suspect to discover the answer would require a visit to Beselare. A final warning was the Iron Harvest. Every year tons of unexploded ordinance, barbed wire, shrapnel, bullets and trench supports are dug up by Belgium farmers. Even now after a hundred years there are still 200 explosions a year. John Sanford

The Tower of London and the Crown Jewels The Tower of London has a long history as the oldest Royal residence, built by William the Conqueror to dominate the City, which at that time was mainly single storey dwellings built of wattle and daub. Today it attracts 2.5 million visitors each year (80% from abroad). 13

The General Meeting on 8th June was treated to many tales from the Tower in a talk by Garry Wykes, a retired Jewel House warden. Garry spent 12 years as one of the nineteen wardens who supervise and assist visitors who come to see the Crown Jewels. He illustrated his talk with pictures of the crowns, rings and maces which are star objects in the collection. Some of these can be seen on the Tower’s website at http://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/visit-us/top-thingsto-see-and-do/the-crown-jewels/visiting-the-crown-jewels/the-crown-jewels/ Here are just a few of the stories which the talk covered: Royal Executions Garry told us about the executions of Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey: two of the seven people executed inside the Tower. (This was because they were members of the Royal Family and therefore allowed some privacy.) Henry VIII had waited in the Chapel Royal of St Peter ad Vincula within the White Tower for the outcome of the trial of Anne Boleyn (although, as it was fixed, there was never any doubt she would be found guilty). He arranged for a highly skilled French swordsman to carry out the execution. Anne had hoped for a last minute reprieve but Henry was already courting Jane Seymour and married her days later. Lady Jane Grey’s execution was a result of her father’s plotting. She had been declared Queen, though not crowned, but showed relief when Mary Tudor succeeded in reclaiming the throne. Mary might have spared her as she was obviously the puppet of her family. However, Mary learnt that Jane’s father was plotting to depose her. Jane was just 17 when she and her young husband Lord Guildford Dudley were executed. Garry gave a description of the execution, from an anonymous Chronicle of the time. This description is online at http://englishhistory.net/tudor/executions-oflady-jane-grey-lord-guildford-dudley/ . He also told us that Jane’s name can be found carved into the Beauchamp Tower.

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The attempt to steal the Crown Jewels There has been one, partially successful, attempt to steal the Crown Jewels. Colonel Blood was an Irish rogue who fought on both sides during the English Civil War before starting a life of crime. He disguised himself as a parson and befriended the Keeper of the Jewels, Talbot Edwards, who lived above the basement where they were kept. Blood and some men visited the Keeper for supper and during the evening Blood asked to see the Jewels. When Talbot Edwards had opened the grille he was set upon and knocked unconscious. Blood and his accomplices then stole the crown, orb and sceptre. The crown was crushed, an attempt was made to cut the sceptre in two and the orb was hidden in Blood’s breeches. Edwards regained consciousness and raised the alarm in time for Blood to be caught at the Iron Gate as he tried to leave the Tower. Surprisingly, Blood was not punished. He asked to see Charles II personally. We do not know what was said but he was released and given lands in Ireland. The full story is online at http://www.historicuk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofEngland/The-Theft-of-the-Crown-Jewels/ The Cullinan Diamond and the Koh-i-Noor The largest diamonds in the Crown Jewels were both cut from the Cullinan Diamond. The diamond is the largest gem-quality diamond ever found. It was found in Pretoria, South Africa, in 1905. These cut diamonds are known as the Great Star of Africa (in the sceptre) and the Second Star of Africa (in the crown). Garry told us that the rough diamond was copied and the decoy sent to Britain by sea with bands and police escort. The real diamond was sent by parcel post. Both arrived. Full details of all the stones cut from the diamond can be found at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cullinan_Diamond 15

Perhaps the most famous diamond in the Crown Jewels is the Koh-i-Noor, which is an Indian diamond and according to legend brings ill fortune to male owners. It certainly has a history of being owned by men who lost power, including Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal Emperor and builder of the Taj Mahal. Its full history is online at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koh-i-Noor It came into the possession of Queen Victoria in 1849 and is only mounted in the crowns of Queens. Currently it is in the Queen Mother’s Crown. Coronation Mishaps Queen Victoria was a small woman and did not like the grand and heavy Crown Jewels. She therefore ordered a smaller coronation ring, which was intended to be worn on her little finger. Unfortunately, the Archbishop of Canterbury at her coronation did not know this and forced it on to her ring finger. She also had a small crown made after the death of Prince Albert. At one stage it was lost, having been put into a cupboard at Windsor Castle which got wallpapered over. When George VI was crowned, the archbishop, who had placed a thread on the crown to help him know which side was the front, discovered it had been removed. He went ahead, of course, but placed the crown on backwards (the Stuart Sapphire should be at the back). Garry said the archbishop’s hesitation could be seen in the newsreels – judge for yourself at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jip5deaCy6k Barbara Lister

Groups Architecture The Architecture Group has had a very busy few months, visiting several areas of architectural interest including the Mile End Road, London Central Mosque, South Norwood, Brentham Garden suburb, Derngate House by Charles Rennnie Mackintosh and the New Ruskin Square in Croydon, to name a few. We visited Taberner House, the 1960s-style block which used to be illuminated at Christmas with the outline of a Christmas tree on one side and a cross on the other. We were shown how great care was taken to minimise dust and noise 16

during the demolition and told that a huge proportion of the material was recycled. It was interesting to see how they broke up the concrete reinforced beams with giant pincers separating the concrete from the steel. This was done floor by floor (starting from the top of course!) and the concrete disposed of down one shaft and the steel down another. Three of our visits have been to the riverside between Richmond and Twickenham where there were large palatial mansions for the rich. Alexander Pope’s house has now gone. Gordon House, the Earl of Kilmorey’s residence (described by Nikolaus Pevsner as ‘early Victorian Italianate’) was the site of Brunel University and is now private housing. Nearby is the Kilmorey Mauseleum, built in Egyptian revival style, and the resting place of the second Earl and his mistress, Priscilla Hoste. St Margarets Estate was developed by the Conservative Land Society in the 1850s. They used the then recent idea of building societies to raise funds to lend to people. They hoped the residents would vote for their party: the plots were designed to be of sufficient size to convey voting rights. The houses were built around three private pleasure gardens and are set back from the roads which meander through the site, as opposed to being on a grid or axial plan. The houses are large and grandiose some with stunning yellow, red or gault brickwork with fine chimney stacks and examples of the bricklayers’ trade. Nearby at Beresford Avenue there is a quite different architectural style. Built around 1925 the houses are bright and airy with smooth white-rendered walls, some with wrap-around suntrap, Crittall type, windows with horizontally proportioned panes. We were gazing at one particular house when the owner came out to enquire as to our interest. When we explained we were an architecture group, he told us he had written a book about post- war housing, featuring the very house we were admiring. We were invited in to have a look around, and he very happily sold several copies of his book! The river is crossed here by three bridges. The first is an example of Victorian ingenuity. The old London Bridge severely restricted the flow of water. When it was replaced in 1831 and due to the dredging of the river, the water near Richmond and Twickenham could be little more than a stream. To prevent this, sluice gates were installed which are raised and lowered so as to maintain the level of water upstream. 17

To enable shipping to use the river whilst the sluice gates were down a lock was built on one side of the river for large craft and a weir on the other side for smaller craft. Additionally, footbridges are cleverly constructed either side of the sluice gates, which hide the gates when in their raised position. There is a 5 minute Port of London Authority film about this at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MylKkH-j4hE The second bridge is Twickenham road bridge, one of three opened on the same day (Hampton Court and Chiswick bridges being the other two) as part of the ‘Chertsey Arterial Road’. This has three concrete reinforced arches with Art Deco decoration and incorporates three permanent hinges to allow the structure to move in response to changes in temperature. Richmond railway bridge was opened in 1848. It was significantly rebuilt in 1908 due to concerns about the strength of the cast iron girders. Similar problems occurred on many cast iron bridges. For example, the London Brighton and South Coast Railway Company had to replace about 80 bridges with the stronger wrought iron after the collapse of a cast iron bridge at Portland Road Norwood junction in 1891.

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In the near future we hope to visit Lewes, the Olympic Park and the ‘People’s Palace’ on the Mile End Road. Finally many thanks to Steve, John and Christian for help in planning and leading our visits and of course to all the group members who have made each trip enjoyable come rain or shine. Norman Cooper

History of London 3 We are quite an active, friendly group – many of whom have been members from the very start, in 2010. Like most of the other History of/Looking at London groups we meet twice a month, once for a talk and then later in the month have an outing to a venue hopefully suggested and arranged by one of the members. However we do not aim to link the talks to the outings. We also have quite a liberal interpretation of the word ‘History’. Some examples are that since September we have done two very interesting walks: one was around the St. Paul’s area and the other following the history and influence of the Jews in London. The latter included a visit to the Bevis Marks synagogue and a walk around Spitalfields. Our latest visit was a very interesting tour of the backstage of the Royal Opera where we caught glimpses of preparations for a production of Enescu’s opera, ‘Oedipe’; and saw two of the resident dancers rehearsing. By luck (or good timing) we spent some time in the auditorium and even more in part of the costume department. We were awed by the challenges of dressing several casts for each production, and by the many rails of costumes we walked past. The amount of backstage work that goes on is impressive. The Opera House closed for two years in 1997 and when it reopened it included property acquired over the years. This has greatly expanded backstage space and given it greater scope to handle its repertory productions. Our talks have covered both local and London-wide topics, such as the history of Norbury and Dulwich as well as wider historical issues such as life in London during the last war and what employment opportunities were available for women in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 19

We don’t only stick to ‘serious stuff’. We had a lovely Christmas lunch together and plan a tea party to help finish off the year in July. Lynda Drummond and Fiona Nicol

Wildflower Group This group meets in the summer when there are flowers in the countryside. We have two outings every month on the second and fourth Monday mornings. Croydon is lucky to have several excellent locations where an abundance of wildflowers can be found. There are downlands such as Riddlesdown, Farthing Downs and Kenley Common. Chalk grassland plants abound on these sites, including several species of orchid. In other areas there may not be such a large number of flowers but there is variety - heathland plants on Addington Hills and wetland plants in South Norwood Country Park. We also enjoy seeing the butterflies and other wildlife as we look for flowers. Members of the group vary from keen botanists to those who just love to be out in the countryside among wildlife. If you would like to pursue an interest in wildflowers then why not think about joining us? Shirley Shephard

Painting for Pleasure We are a varied group of people who just enjoy painting. Each of us paints in his or her own style and medium, though mostly watercolour. Different people like to paint different subjects. Landscapes are popular, as are botanical specimens. Some paint meticulously, others more freely. We don’t have a tutor but, during our coffee break, we look at one another’s work and make suggestions if anyone is having difficulty in any part of their work. Twice a year, those who wish to do so paint from a copy of the same photograph. This is most interesting as the pictures all vary and show the character and style of the artist even though the subject is the same. 20

The group is full at the moment but we have a waiting list and places may well become available in the future. Shirley Shephard

Looking at London (Central) On 8th April the Looking at London Group visited the heritage display at the Royal College of Nursing. Shepherded by group leader Ethel Dixon, a retired midwife, the group saw exhibits about the development of nurses' careers and union representation over the 100 years since the formation of the Royal College in 1916. Then there was a desperate need for nurses to tend the wounded of the First World War. About a third of those sent to help had nursing training, a third had some experience by, for example, caring for a relative and the final third were ‘the right sort of women’. Over time the RCN has worked to support nursing and midwifery as careers. Developments include many specialist nursing roles, the entry of male nurses into the profession and registration of health care assistants. It has also run pay campaigns for nurses. During our visit we saw a map of the UK made in hospital badges, saw historic uniforms and giggled at saucy postcards representing a lighter view of nursing. In one example a new father of triplets saying ‘Well I never’ gets the midwife's response ‘You must have!’ Pictured here is Ethel helping group member June to try on a nurse's uniform hat. Barbara Lister 21

Maths Mathematics!! What DO you DO?

Spheres, crystals, boxes, Zeno's paradoxes, Rotations and reflections, Orbits and conic sections. Fibonnacci and cones, Napier's bones, Curves, waves or ripples, Pythagorean triples. Tessellations or mosaic, Structures algebraic, Indices, exponentials, matrices, differentials, On these and more we ponder, a never ending source of wonder. We also debate, though with civility, Is maths about beauty, truth or utility? From Margaret Turner. [The Maths Group meets on the afternoon of the first Monday of the month.]

Creative writing One Day Stevens had had enough. Mr Strickland, the Assistant Manager, had been on at him all week. This was wrong, that was wrong; everything Stevens did in the office was wrong in Strickland’s eyes. This had gone on for months. He was not alone in his hatred, and now the time had come. After all, everyone has a breaking point. By chance, Stevens had found Strickland’s home address in the office records and decided to follow him. 22

Five o’clock came. Everyone downed tools and wended their way to their various stations and homes for the weekend. All except Stevens. He picked up his case and followed Strickland at a discreet distance to the tube station, followed him down the escalator and joined his carriage – but at the far end, hiding behind his evening paper to avoid recognition. Strickland was the last person he wanted to talk to. Besides, Strickland knew that Stevens lived on the other side of the river. At his destination, Strickland stopped off at the florists to buy some flowers: quite prophetic, Stevens thought, in the circumstances. This allowed time for Stevens to slip past unnoticed up to the footpath which led to a small wood directly opposite Strickland’s row of semis. Reaching a suitable spot remote from the footpath, and with plenty of cover, Stevens knelt down, opened his case – no ordinary case – and removed his beloved high-powered rifle, which he assembled, fitting a small tripod, telescopic sights and silencer. Just the one round would be sufficient. Lying on his front, he waited for his quarry. A bead of sweat appeared on his brow. He did not have long to wait. His timing was perfect. Strickland walked up to his front gate, opened it, closed it behind him and walked up his garden path, not knowing that the cross-hairs of Stevens’ rifle were trained on his back. Steven’s trigger-finger hovered. Reaching in his inside pocket for his key, Strickland opened his front door, entered and closed it behind him. Stevens lowered his weapon, dismantled it and replaced it carefully in its case. And he smiled to himself, just as he had done the previous Friday, the Friday before that and every Friday for the past six months…One day, he thought…one day. Colin Read

Creation of Bangladesh On the partitioning of India in 1947, Muslim Pakistan was established in two parts: West and East, separated by 1000 miles of Hindu India. It was an ‘unnatural’ marriage, of Bengalis in the East and mainly Punjabis in the West. The former comprised 130 million people and the latter 80 million. 23

The first clash of cultures took place in 1952. The Government ordained Urdu to be the official language of the whole country, thus setting aside the cultural identity of Bengalis. This generated anger amongst Bengalis, who formed the majority of Pakistan. The main political party in the East, the Awami League, under the leadership of Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, led an uprising. Students of Dhaka University were at the forefront of demonstrations. The Government banned all public meetings. That fuelled more violence. On 21 February, police fired into a crowd, killing students. This date was subsequently declared ‘Martyr’s Day’. In 1956, after years of conflict, the Government relented. Bengali became the second state language of Pakistan, alongside Urdu. However, the seed was sown for the separation of the two wings of Pakistan. Other differences arose. Although West Pakistan had the minority population, it exercised political, economic and industrial power, and had the maximum share of revenue and foreign aid. Bengalis saw themselves as economically deprived and exploited. The bulk of the army came from the West, and the civil service was under the control of the West. It was becoming clear that the creation of Pakistan with two distant wings bound together only by the common religion of Islam was becoming untenable. In 1958 General Ayub Khan abrogated the constitution and declared martial law. He tried to placate Bengali nationalism by addressing some of the causes. But it didn’t work. In December 1969 he handed over power to General Yahya Khan. In 1970 a general election was held in the whole country. Bengalis overwhelmingly supported the Awami League, whilst in the West the Pakistan People’s Party of Zulfiquar Ali Bhutto won an overwhelming victory. The East, having the majority of voters, demanded that Sheikh Mujibur’s Awami League should form the Government. Bhutto would have none of it. The powerful Pakistan Army supported him. The country headed for a deadlock. Like all developing countries, changes happen, including trials and tribulations. Only a few years after Bangladesh was born, Sheikh Mujibur and most of his family were assassinated in a military coup. A martial law Government followed, converted into a civilian Government under General Ziaur Rahman.

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He in turn was assassinated, to be followed by another military Government, then by a civilian Government under General Ershad. Since then, two women feature prominently: Begum Zia (wife of the assassinated General Ziaur Rahman), the former Prime Minister; and Sheikh Hasina, the daughter of Sheikh Mujibur, (who, with her sister, had escaped death as they were in London at the time of the bloody coup), the current Prime Minister. Corruption and nepotism are rampant. But the country is shows remarkable economic progress, with GPD growth of 6% - 7%. The population shows resilience and motivation in the face of natural disasters. Poverty is much reduced. The creation of Bangladesh illustrates the importance of language and cultural identity. Artificially constructed borders can be impotent where language and religion are concerned. On 17 November 1999 UNESCO declared 21 February as International Mother Language Day in tribute to the Language Movement and the ethno-linguistic rights of people around the world. Suhail Aziz

My Croydon, Southern Powerhouse/Hub of the Universe When I arrived as an incomer to Croydon 25 years ago, the place struck me as eminently fit for human habitation. It offered excellent mobility, both social and physical. You could be in London in the time it took to read a morning paper or out in the open countryside even sooner. From this famously derided dormitory suburb, so many had stirred from dreamy back bedrooms to surprise the world: R.F.Delderfield, D.H.Lawrence, Samuel Coleridge-Taylor, David Lean, Peggy Ashcroft, Amy Johnson, Kate Moss and C.B.Fry. There were birds in the trees, foxes on the lawns, pheasants in the allotments, the occasional deer in Lloyd Park and engagingly batty dog-walkers in the streets, which rang as they still do with those lyrical Sarf London refrains, ‘Y’know wha’ I mean?’ and ‘Vis is doin’ my ‘ead in!’

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This was the hardening underbelly of a great capital and a resurgent England, the old market town with greatness thrust upon it by the relocation of much of the insurance industry in the ‘60s and ‘70s and the ever-rolling stream of foreigners, the parade of nations passing by to Lunar House, buoyed by the hopes and fears of a British dream so powerful that nothing could check the beacon beam of its momentum. The environs of the town are no longer the rural idyll which Betjeman’s Uncle Dick left once for all. The menace of change and decay now prompt an urge to action to transform the place into the magnet for new businesses and jobs and modern living which it must become. Straining after city status, it yet falls short of claiming that crown. Too long the plaything of architects and town planners, Croydon now faces a radical reconstruction. With no more ski jumps set to adorn the roofs of multi-storey car parks, nor flutterings of coloured lights to waken early morning commuters, the city centre is about to have its heart ripped out, much like Glasgow’s Sauchiehall Street in the ‘70s. The ghosts of Grants and Allders and the old variety theatres linger in the mind’s eye. The dead urban spaces of St George’s Walk and College Green cry out for animation. The Fairfield Halls are under threat of extinction if they close for two years for refurbishing. I first visited in the early ‘60s for a poetry reading – 50 years later I find myself reading my own poems there as part of the Chinese New Year celebrations. This whole initiative – the re-birth of this place where we live – is a colossal gamble, but it seems imperative if Croydon is to accommodate all those incomers like me who come in search of a different and better life. The fate of the borough hangs in the balance, but the scales are tipped by the sheer onward press of incomers – an estimated 35,000 of them over the coming years – all of whom will seek a home and a community of shared recreations and amenities, without which isolation and a dull malaise will stalk their lives like an unshakable curse. Will there be provision for a central swimming pool, a larger auditorium for concerts, talks and religious services, a proper theatre, even an indoor running circuit? The Mayor of London may wave his wand but who will magic all these things into being, unless we ourselves can get our act together to define and create conditions for the ‘good life’ that we and others should continue to enjoy? Barnaby Powell 26

Britain’s Space Programme Following the Second World War, England began to develop a space programme. The Rocket Propulsion Establishment (RPE) at Westcott in Buckinghamshire opened in April 1946. The scientists and engineers included some Germans who had been involved in Hitler’s rocket programme. I started work there in 1954 and eventually worked in the Library. My work was often interrupted by the noise of rocket engines, with Black Knight and Blue Streak being tested. The Library held many technical documents, some of a high security classification. If a particularly sensitive document needed to be brought to RPE from the Royal Aircraft Establishment, Farnborough, I was sent by plane to pick it up and keep it secure until it could be delivered to the scientist who required it. I left RPE in 1962 to attend library school but I retained contact with some of the scientists and engineers who worked there. After RPE was closed down as a government establishment it was taken over by what is now British Aerospace, and some of the engineers and scientists were employed by that company. This year I was contacted and told that it was the 70th anniversary of RPE and there would be a big celebration. A friend of mine who also worked there was interested, so in April we set off to Bucks to the celebratory lunch. We had been told that there would be an opportunity to have a coach trip around the original site, now a Venture Park. Reaction Engines Ltd ('REL'), a private company, is now operating on the site. It was formed in 1989 to develop the technologies needed for an advanced combined cycle air-breathing rocket engine (called SABRE) that would enable aircraft to operate at speeds of up to five times the speed of sound, or fly directly into Earth orbit. BAE Systems has entered into collaboration with Reaction Engines. In addition, in 2007 a company called Airborne Engineering Ltd (AEL) worked with REL and the University of Bristol to carry out a research programme on expansion-deflection rocket nozzles. In 2009 the company moved to the Westcott Venture Park. 27

Since then, AEL’s rocket work has increased and now they are working with REL on the SABRE engine for the Skylon spaceplane. AEL has two rocket engine test bays for air-breathing rocket engine research, which we were able to see. The whole day was most interesting and it was a pleasure to know that Britain still has a foothold in international space programmes. Margaret Wilson

Croydon Art Collection Until 1 October a few of the paintings and drawings in the Croydon Art Collection are on display at the Exhibition Gallery, part of the Museum of Croydon in the Clocktower (at the end near the Riesco Gallery). They have been selected by museum volunteers. A traditional oil painting, A Surrey Lane, by John Clayton Adams, conveys the essence of Summer. An amusing coloured drawing take us back to the early days of motoring, with a horse, pulling a gig, alarmed by the approach of a car, and the gig’s driver flagging it to slow down. At the exhibition, you can pick up the illustrated booklet about the Collection. You can access the whole Collection online via Art UK. Many of the pictures have a local interest: Addington Hills, Croham Hurst, and aspects of Croydon of yesterday. This is the link to the Croydon Collection page (click the pictures which interest you to see them at page size) http://artuk.org/discover/artworks/search/venue:museum-of-croydon4855/page/2

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Remembering 1916 This exhibition at Whitgift School is the brain child of the Headmaster, Christopher Barnett. Staff and pupils have assisted the curator and two research assistants. The whole exhibition is of a very high standard. The School, and Croydon, should be proud of it. The number of former pupils and staff who died in the war was 251, of whom 66 died in 1916. This includes a pilot killed in a dog-fight with the ‘Red Baron’. Particularly striking are the ‘mock-ups’ – e.g. of a trench before the first attack in the Battle of the Somme, of an Edwardian room where a mother has just read the telegram about her son’s death. Throughout are ‘Voices’ from the front in France, and from the Home Front, telling it as it was. I learnt things I didn’t know. Across Croydon were 16 depots where ‘comforts’ for the troops could be left to be sent. Australia never had conscription, but volunteers numbered 415,000 - amounting to 39% of the male population between the ages of 18 and 44. The last exhibit is about the Treaty of Versailles signed on 28 June 1919. Marshal Foch said it was not a peace, but an armistice which would last but 20 years. He was wrong by only 64 days. At the end is an ‘Edwardian’ café. You exit into the lovely ‘Founder’s Garden’. The Exhibition’s online Gallery page shows some of the many interesting items on display, http://www.remembering1916.co.uk/gallery.aspx The exhibition is on till 31 August. For senior residents of Croydon the ticket price is £3 – you are asked to bring proof of address, e.g. Council Tax bill, or utility bill. Limited free parking is available on site for visitors, including parking for disabled visitors. Gordon Thynne Picture: Sculpture of WW1 British Lancer in the Founder’s Garden 29

Rhyming Monarchs from 1066 to the present day Willie, Willie, Henry, Steve; Henry, Dick, John, Henry Three. One, Two, three Neds, Richard Two; Henrys Four, Five, Six then who? Edwards Four, Five, Dick the Bad, Henrys Twain then Ned the Lad. Mary, Bessie, James the Vain, Charlie, Charlie, James again. William and Mary, Anne Gloria, Four Georges, William, then Victoria. Ned, George, Ned, George. Now it’s seen A second Bessie is our Queen. [Garry Wykes showed this in his talk on the Tower of London]

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