Steps to identifying the material from which your inflatable Rib, boat, kayak, dinghy or inflatable life-raft tubes or collar is made from. PU, PVC or Hypalon? When the time comes to repair your boat’s collar or inflatable tubes, it’s essential that you know which material the tubes are made up of. It doesn’t matter if it’s a dinghy, rib, kayak or liferaft having a solid understanding of its fabric will help you immensely in choosing the correct adhesive and solvent to efficiently mend the vessel’s patches, with a positive outcome. There are three main materials which are used in the manufacture of inflatables and they are Polyvinyl, Chloride (PVC), Hypalon and Polyurethane (PU). PVC: PVC is the chemical name for polyvinyl chloride. It's a plastic coating and is used as a top coating for materials such as nylon fabric and polyester. PVC needs an additive to be added to it so that's it's able to be used as a pliable coating on a base fabric. In regards to the old PVC, on exposure to UV light, the plasticising additive degraded and and you were left with cracks. In this modern age, most manufacturers now have a 10 year-plus UV light guarantee on fabrics made for the marine as noticeable improvements have created an upsurge in the durability of the material. PVC tubes are the cheapest to produce and yet they still offer a fifteen year usage time. Since the joints can be easily welded with the help of thermal or high-frequency welding, repair and maintenance is very simple. Using glue is also possible for an even easier, quicker alternative. Hypalon: For a synthetic rubber covering for polyester and nylon fabrics, there is Hypalon. On the back of the inflatable fabric is normally a neoprene coating. If your dinghy is clean and using a UV conditioner, the rubber coating has a high endurance and, if well looked after, can last for twenty years. To glue Hypalon joints, fabric is either placed together to apply glue cover strips or the tapes that are on top of the seams may be overlapped to glue. Although Hypalon is more pricey compared to PVC, it is higher quality and also comes in a range of different textures and colours. PU (Polyurethane): Compared to Hypalon fabrics, manufacturers have claimed PU to have exceptional airtightness and that PU displays a high endurance to wear and tear and also to tensile stress. The price compares similarly with a good quality Hypalon but is dearer than the PVC fabrics. The average time expectancy for a good PU fabric is around fifteen years. Some earlier products have lasted up to twenty years or more. Unlike the Hypalon and PVC fabrics, the PU fabric only offers a small range of colours to choose from.

How to find out the type of fabric my inflatable liferaft, dinghy, inflatable kayak or Rib is made of. 1. Read through the list of inflatable boats and RIB manufacturers in the table below

2. Inspect the back (the inside) of the tube fabric e.g. this could be viewed through a tear in the inflation tube or collar. A black or dull dark grey colour on the back of the fabric means it's Hypalon, while the polyurethane (PU) and PVC show a glossy colour on both sides. 3. Scrape the boat fabric in a noticeable area. Having done this, Hypalon fabric becomes dull and gives a residue, while PVC will only scratch but still retain its glossy colour. 4. You can apply a small amount of MEK solvent to a noticeable place on the tube fabric (ensure that you use the right solvent, i.e. MEK, chemically known as methylethylketone. This is available from our store online – Acetone is an alternative). If it's PVC, the material should become tacky and some of the fabric's colouring will be left on the cloth used. If it's Hypalon, there will be a dull appearance and at times some colouring will appear on the cloth. The main difference between these two results is that Hypalon will not become tacky. These test solvents are dangerous and should be applied with care and in a well-ventilated area, away from naked flames. Manufacturers that use HYPALON in manufacturing inflatables and RIB: AB

GOMMONAUTICA

RIB-X

ACHILLES

GORDON

RING

AQUAFLYTE

HENSHAWS manufacturer)

AVON

HUMBER

SCANNER

BALLISTIC

LOMAC

SCORPION

BEAUFORT

METZLER*

SELVA

BRIG*

ML LIFEGUARD

SEMPERIT

BWM

NOVA JOLLY

SELVA

CALAGARI

NOVAMARINE

SKUA

CAMPARI

NOVURANIA

STINGHER

CARIBE

OSPREY

TIDEL (re-tube/collar manufacturer)

(tube/collar ROBCRAFT

CHINOOK

PICTON

TINKER

COBRA

REDBAY

WETLINE RIBS (only available as option on larger RIBS – check first!)

DELTA

REVENGER

XS-RIBS (also manufacture with Hypalon – examine first!)

DOMINO

RIBCRAFT

YAM RIBS (different from YAM inflatables)

DUNLOP

RIBEYE (‘S’ Series/Larger ZODIAC (pre-1986 models RIBS only – check first!) but also a customer option on some RIBS – check first!) * (early models).

EUROCRAFT

RIBTEC

FLATACRAFT

RIBQUEST

Manufacturers that use PVC to manufacture inflatables and RIB: ARIMAR METZLER (more recent SUZUMAR models – check first!) BOMBARD

NARWHAL (also provide TOHATSU PU option – check first!)

BRIG

NEUVISA (also provide PU TYPHOON option – check first!)

COMPASS II/24

OMC EXPRESS

VALIANT (some commercial / larger RIBS are PU – check first!)

EUROVINYL

PLASTIMO

WAVELINE

EXCEL

PROWAVE

WETLINE (larger RIBS are Hypalon – check first!

GEMINI (dinghy’s only -

QUICKSILVER

YAM (Inflatables, RIBS are Hypalon)

HONDA

RIBEYE (Except the ‘S’ ZED Series/Larger RIBS – check first!)

LODESTAR

SERIE

ZOOM

MAXXON

SEVYLOR

ZODIAC (but Hypalon is a customer option on some RIBS – check first!)

Manufacturers that use POLYURETHANE (PU) in manufacturing their inflatables and RIB: TORNADO

VANGUARD (also NARWHAL (produces PVC manufacture using Hypalon but also offer a PU option – and PVC– check first!) check first!)

VALIANT (some NEUVISA (mostly PVC but XS-RIBS (but also smaller/Leisure RIBS are also offer a PU option – manufacture using Hypalon PVC – check first!) check first!) – check first!)

The steps to finding leaks in my inflatable dinghy, boat, RIB, kayak or inflatable life-raft tubes or collar

Sometimes you may feel that there is something wrong and that there is a leakage somewhere when your inflatable dinghy or boat just won't hold any amount of air or retain air pressure. Follow these steps that professionals use to find out what the problem is, so you can get your kayak, RIB, dinghy or boat back in the water. 1. Pump air into your inflatable tubes or collar to hit operational pressure (refer to your owner’s manual) so that when you hit with the palm of your hand, it makes the sound of a drum. 2. Carefully check all areas of the inflatable tubes or collar, and the inflatable keel (if available) for any visible marks of fabric wear. 3. To inspect the inflation valves, take off the caps and see that the diaphragms made of rubber are well positioned and that there are no signs of air escaping through the valves. You should also make sure the valve cap is in place to act as a secondary blockage for air escaping through the well-seated valves. 4. By using a spray bottle, such as that of a detergent bottle after being rinsed, mix a washing up liquid solution of neural or mild pH with an equal amount of warm water. 5. Being close enough to see, spray the soapy solution on the inflatable boat tubes bit by bit and carefully observe for bobbles (bobbles indicate position of leakage). Take your time to go round all parts of the tube because there may be more than one point of leakage. Using a waterproof pencil, draw a cross symbol to mark each leakage area on the inflatable tube. 6. Next, spray the tightly covered inflation valves to see if you can spot any leakage. Small bobbles here also mean a leakage. Do check the bobble source to know if it’s from the cap, body or the joint of the valve and the fabric. 7. After finding where all the leakages are, deflate the tube and allow to dry thoroughly. 8. Repair any collar or tube fabric breakages with the right glue, fabric and solvent. Don't forget to replace valves if it's necessary. To repair floors or soles of Inflatable Dinghy 1. First, make sure that the dinghy is completely dry and place the boat on a flat platform. E.g. a table. 2. Place the fully inflated dinghy upside down and sprinkle some talcum powder over the boat’s base. Make sure that the whole area is covered by the powder by spreading with a dry brush. 3. Turn back the dinghy and carefully pour into the boat 1 litre of water. While trying to avoid water leaking out the sides of the boat, gently rock the dinghy to evenly dispense the water so that it covers all areas. 4. Raise the boat to check for any ‘wet parts’ on the powder sprinkled area of the dinghy i.e. the floor or sole. Use a waterproof marker or pencil to make a mark where you notice any punctures. 5. Drain the water that remains from the dinghy and allow it to dry. 6. Use the right fabric, glue and solvent to do your necessary repairs.

Steps to Repairing Inflatable Boat Tubes The environment in which you work in is very important to ensure a good repair. For the right conditions it's best to have a humidity level less than 60%, a temperature of around 18oC-25oC and a dry work area which is shaded. The knowledge of the material that your inflatable tube is made from is essential, as this helps you decide what types of adhesive, solvent and patch fabric to use for the repair. So you don't have any doubts about fabric material, please check our online store for details. Do make sure that you have all the correct materials and tools before beginning the repair. Complete repair kits and materials for this job are available on our online store. Materials & Tools needed for the job: • Adhesive (1-part and 2-part for temporary repairs and permanent/larger patches respectively) • Right fabric patch • Right solvent or primer • Short and stiff paint brush • Clean cloth (has to be lint-free) • Sandpaper • Mixing stick (when using 2-part adhesive) such as lollipop stick • Removable marker pen or pencil • Masking tape • Heavy weight (to grip patch in-place during curing) With all these, you are now ready to start work on repairing the leaking tube: 1. First you need to identify the hole or tear on the tube. If you are not sure, then inflate tube, spray the soap solution and watch for bobbles to show leakage area. Mark the area and allow tube to dry completely, then deflate. 2. Cut an appropriate fabric patch with curved ends, leaving at least a 5cm overlay around the hole or tear. Place the fabric patch on the tube and draw around it with a pencil or removable marker. 3. Abrade the back of the fabric patch and the side you have just marked on the tube using an abrasive paper. Be wary as to not create an excessive scratch as this can damage the fabric, especially if you're using Hypalon. 4. Using a lint-free cloth, clean the area of repair as well as the rear of the patch. Prime with the correct solvent for your tube fabric. Use Acetone or MEK for PVC and PU fabrics and Toluene solvent for Hypalon. This should make the area become tacky. 5. Cover the area that surrounds the repair site by using removable tape, as this stops any accidental spillage of adhesive on these parts during application. 6. If you're only looking for a temporary repair, you will find a 1-part adhesive suitable for this job. For permanent and bigger patches, the 2-part adhesive would be needed. Use the manufacturer’s instructions to mix 2-parts adhesives. 2-parts adhesives usually repair quicker.

7. With a brush, use a light and even coat of adhesive on the rear of the patch and on the area you marked on the tube. After leaving to dry for twenty minutes, you should add a second and third coat and leave to dry for around 2 minutes. The surfaces should be tacky at this point. Carefully place the coated surface of the fabric patch onto the coated area of the tube. Remember that repositioning is impossible with these contact adhesives so make sure that you place it correctly. Roll the surface of the patch with a rounded object such as a glass bottle so as to remove air bubbles. 8. Peel off the tape and clean any excess adhesive on the tube using the correct solvent as mentioned above. 9. Place a heavy object on top of the patch area and leave to 'cure' for around 24 hours. Afterwards, re-inflate the tubes and launch your boat. Steps to Replacing Your Inflatable Boat Valve When a like-for-like replacement isn't available to you, a cost effective way of replacing a valve would be with the use of the modern C7 valves. These inflation valves are available from our online shop, as well as fabric valve aperture-reinforcing patch (known as valve doubler) which has the same colour as the tube fabric. Knowing the fabric material of your tube is important to decide which adhesive, solvent and patch (valve doubler) you will use. In our online shop you can purchase a cheap, complete valve changing kit. The kit includes everything you need to be able to change your valve such as latex gloves, 2-part adhesive, solvent primer/cleaner, an application brush and instructions. When you have all your tools, you must create an acceptable environment to make your repair in. Ideal conditions include an atmospheric temperature of 18oC-25oC and a humidity which is less than 60%. The area must be well ventilated, dry, warm shaded and away from any naked flames. When these conditions are met, you can then proceed with your valve replacement as follows. 1. First you must deflate the tube. 2. Detach the existing valve by carefully cutting the fabric around the outside edge of your old valve. A craft knife can be used to completely remove the valve. 3. Then attach your new valve to the valve doubler. This can be completed by removing the body assembly of the valve first and then re-assembling it, but this time with the valve doubler securely attached. Steps to Repairing or servicing a Leafield A7 or B7 Inflatable Boat Valve Requirements include: · The A7/B7 service kit. This is accompanied by a new spring, valve spindle, and rubber diaphragm (1 kit for a valve) · A7/B7 Socket or large pair of grips, plus a grip cloth to cover the jaws of the wrench and clean components

· A Pair of pliers (long-nosed) · Before you begin, be familiar with the valve and its components through the diagram of the valve assembly. Steps to follow 1. Start by releasing air into the tube and open the valve spindle by first pushing inwards and then turning the spindle. 2. With your A7/B7 ring or flat spanner, (when using a large pair of grips, use a grip cloth for covering the jaw of the grips so as not to cause damage to the plastic valve) loosen in a counter clockwise motion and remove it from the inner assembly of the valve, the outer assembly–do not allow the inner assembly to fall in by not gripping efficiently. While you continue to grip the inner assembly of the valve through the tube fabric, start to push the internal part of the valve inside the tube as you carefully twist the valve, such that you now see the end of the assembly of the inner-valve through the valve aperture that is felt inside the wall of the tube. 3. Using a pair of long-nosed pliers, let go from the spindle the rubber diaphragm while you unscrew in a counter clockwise direction. When the diaphragm is removed, turn the valve around again and move the spindle to its closed position. Take the spring out. Confirm that the valve and it's components are free from any particles that could stop the valve from sealing firmly again. 4. Place your new spring and spindle into the valve and turn so locked into position, then slightly turn the valve within the tube so that the rear of the valve assembly is seen. Screw the rubber diaphragm onto the spindle and avoid cross threading so the diaphragm is not damaged. 5. Carefully, turn round the valve assembly inside and pull the thread of the valve body forwards through the opening wall of the tube. Screw down the outer valve assembly through the thread to hold the valve body securely in position. 6. Re-inflate and go boating! Note that the B7 Valve is same as the A7 except the contoured cap. Steps to Repairing or servicing a Leafield C7 Inflatable Boat Valve The C7 valve can abruptly fail after a few years of use, due to a number of causes. This can be because of the rubber material becoming brittle, which means it's not well-seated in the inflation valve. The sprint and the plastic diaphragm spindle may also fail. Replacing a C7 inflation valve diaphragm is an easy job and the service kits are available in our online shop. Requirements include: • C7 service kit, comprising of a new spring, valve spindle, and rubber diaphragm (1 kit for a valve) • C7 valve wrench spanner • • Before making a start on your job, make sure you're familiar with the valve and it's

components by using the diagram of the valve assembly. • Steps to follow 1. Deflate the air from the tub/collar and place the tube flat, so that it is possible to exert pressure on the valve body in a downward direction. To prevent it from turning, grip the part of the valve which sits in the tube by holding it through the tube fabric. 2. Using a C7 wrench, loosen the (Male) outer section of the valve and turn it counter clockwise. Make sure that the inner section of the valve (inside tube) stays in place, even when the outer portion is taken away. 3. Thrust the large black washer in to turn the valve spindle so it's locked in the open position. If the sealing washer is damaged or turned grey, replace it. 4. Return it to the closed position by taking out the rubber diaphragm which is at the end of the spindle and pulling off the spindle's end. Remove the old spring and spindle by sliding them out the valve front. 5. Fit in place your new spring and spindle and lock the spindle in an open position. When adding a new diaphragm to the spindle end, make sure that the rubber diaphragm correctly attaches, by seeing that the plastic flange, which is on the end of the spindle, locks the diaphragm into place and can be seen. 6. To test the spring movement of the diaphragm, loosen the spindle and make sure the diaphragm is correctly seated onto the valve, keeping air from escaping. 7. To stop it from turning, tightly grip the inner part of the valve which sits inside the tube (holding the tube fabric). Fix the outer section into the inner (female section), twisting it in a clockwise motion until it is hand tight. Place back the plastic washer with the ridges facing the tube fabric. 8. Tighten and re-inflate the tube/collar with the C7 wrench to check for leakages by spraying the area with a soapy solution and checking for bubbles. If any leakages are seen, tighten the valve properly the C7 wrench. 9. Done - Go boating! See our online store for products