2015 Bordeaux En Primeur Tasting Notes & Opinion MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
2015 BORDEAUX 2015 has given us a fine array of wonderful and delicious wines. Whilst many of the grandest wines are on the right bank and Pomerol was a stand-out appellation, the Médoc and Graves have also produced a host of simply delicious wines combining ripeness and freshness in a way rarely seen in Bordeaux. The depth and concentration of the best will enable 2015 to stand comparison with the great recent vintages of 2005, 2009 and 2010. The growing season started slowly as a result of a cool March with bud break delayed until early April. Temperatures soon picked up, however, and from mid-April weather conditions were perfect. The flowering passed off quickly and evenly at the beginning of June during a spell of particularly warm and dry weather. Temperatures continued to rise with a number of extremely hot days at the beginning of July. Overall, the first four months of the growing season were significantly drier and warmer than the thirty year average and, by the end of July, growers were worried that another 2003 might be on the cards.
However, welcome rain at the beginning of August refreshed the vines and accelerated the véraison (changing of the colour of the grapes) which was generally completed by 15th August. Climatically, the final two months of the growing season were much more mixed with rainfall above average (but with big differences between regions) and temperatures lower than usual. This permitted a long, slow ripening enabling the grapes to achieve high levels of sugar and phenolic ripeness whilst retaining good amounts of acidity. The cool temperatures also resulted in wonderfully fresh aromas and classic, pure, fruit flavours. The tannins are ripe and silky, adding to the lushness of the vintage. Some areas suffered more from the rain than others. The driest regions were the right bank, Entre-Deux-Mers and Graves. In these areas, the wines are rich and ripe, with close-knit textures and excellent depth and concentration. Much of the merlot was picked at 14% or more alcohol and the wines rival 2010 in terms of weight and power. The tannins are silkier, however, and the flavours fresher, more in keeping with 2005. The trend for less extracted wines seems to be catching on and there are many elegant, charming wines in both Saint Emilion and Pomerol, although some producers still want to make over-oaked, excessively ripe and tannic wines. The Médoc is more mixed. As you went north from Margaux the rainfall was heavier and the quality of drainage in the vineyard became paramount. Whilst the free-draining, gravel soils of Saint Julien and Pauillac mitigated the worst effects of the rain, the heavier, clay soils of Saint Estèphe and the lower-lying areas of the northern Médoc mopped it up, resulting in inevitable dilution. Such wines are still ripe and charming but lack the density, concentration and length on the finish of a truly great vintage.
2
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
It is, therefore, a vintage in the Médoc where careful selection is needed. All the wines show excellent ripeness and freshness of flavour but the level of concentration varies considerably. The best wines are as good as in 2005 and 2010 but others are more in line with 2014, a successful vintage which has developed well in cask over the past year. The dry white wines are again successful. The warmer summer gave richer, rounder wines than the equally fine but leaner, tauter 2014s. Similarly in Sauternes, the sweet whites are rich and powerful with lower acidity than in 2014 but showing fine balance and freshness. 2015 completes another trio of fine Sauternes vintages – 2013, 2014 and 2015 will make for a fascinating comparison in the future. Quantities are generally good with the highest yields since the generous vintages of 2004, 2006 and 2007. However, more and more châteaux are making ever more stringent selections for the grand vin and I am expecting many châteaux to release smaller volumes than in the past in order to build up stocks for the future, so the top wines are again likely to be in short supply. Prices are bound to rise as the château owners know that they have made excellent wines and sterling is currently 12% off its peak against the euro which happily coincided with the en primeur campaign last year. So expect price increases of over 20% in sterling terms and consider buying any remaining stocks of the under-rated 2014s still available at last year’s opening prices. The tasting notes that follow represent a personal selection of the wines that impressed me most whilst tasting over 500 wines in Bordeaux last week. In the absence of prices it is impossible to make final judgements on value for money so there will be other wines that I will be delighted to buy if the price is right.
Charles Taylor M.W.
April 2016
Whilst detailing the blend of varieties at the individual châteaux I have abbreviated the grape varieties as follows: Cabernet Sauvignon - CS, Cabernet Franc - CF, Merlot - M, Petit Verdot - PV and Carmenère - C
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
3
PAUILLAC Château Lafite Rothschild 1er Grand Cru Classé, 91% CS, 9% M
Château Latour 1er Grand Cru Classé, 97.1% CS, 2.6% M, 0.3% PV
Charles Chevallier has handed over the wine-making reins to new estate director, Eric Kohler. The style remains the epitome of elegance with beautiful, pure blackcurrant fruit allied to carefully extracted, silky tannins. Aged in 100% new oak, this has a wonderful close-knit texture, beautiful freshness and sweet succulent finish. Not as dense or concentrated as 2009 or 2010 but the most harmonious and complete Lafite of recent years. Drink 2024-2040.
Frédéric Engerer and his wine making team have again made the densest and most concentrated of the Médoc first growths. Extremely dark colour, vivid, opulent, fruity nose and impressive, close-knit texture all point to a great future. Softer, rounder and more complete than the impressive 2014 but not as grandiose as the magnificent 2009 and 2010. This is a sumptuous Château Latour that will age magnificently but will also be approachable relatively soon. As in previous years, the wine won't be offered en primeur but at a later date to be decided by owner, François Pinault. Drink 2025-2045.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1er Grand Cru Classé, 82% CS, 16% M, 2% CF
Estate director Philippe Dhalluin likens the Mouton 2015 vintage to that of 2005. High praise indeed as the 2005 is now showing real class and quality. For me, the 2015 is softer and rounder with a little less concentration but with riper and purer fruit and a similar freshness and persistence on the finish. Drink 2025-2040.
4
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2ème Cru Classé, 68% CS, 29% M, 2% CF, 1% PV Nicolas Glumineau has built on last year’s successful wine by adding extra weight and richness. It displays all the archetypal Pichon Comtesse fruit and charm. Carefully extracted, medium to full-bodied wine with beautiful cedar aromas, generous plummy fruit, silky tannins and a sweet finish. Drink 2023-2035.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Pichon Longueville Baron 2ème Cru Classé, 77% CS, 23% M
Château Lynch-Bages 5ème Cru Classé, 70% CS, 24% M, 4% CF, 2% PV
With Pichon Lalande, the finest Pauillac outside first growths. Traditional Pichon Longueville blend with most of the fruit coming from the predominantly cabernet vineyards situated just across the D2 road from L’Enclos of Château Latour. Dark in colour with dense, ripe, blackcurrant aromas. Full-bodied concentrated wine, plenty of carefully extracted tannins and a firm finish. It has more depth and concentration than most Pauillacs in 2015. Drink 2025-2037.
As in 2014, Jean-Charles Cazes has made one of the most full-bodied, tannic wines of the vintage. This year the tannins are fully covered with masses of sweet, blackcurrant fruit and the lower acidity adds succulence which will make the wine more enjoyable in its youth. Drink 2025-2037.
Château Batailley 5ème Cru Classé, 77% CS, 20% M, 3% PV The rich and powerful 2015 vintage confirms the remarkable improvement made at Château Batailley since Philippe Castéja took over from his father and appointed Arnaud Durand as winemaker. Shows the same level of concentration as the impressive 2014 but with extra richness and additional fruit and charm. This is archetypal Pauillac, broad and muscular with chunky texture and powerful finish. Drink 2025-2035.
Château Haut Batailley 5ème Cru Classé, 72% CS, 28% M Managed by Xavier Borie of Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, this is more Saint Julien in style, with a lighter texture and fresh, fragrant aromas of red and black fruits. Attractive, chunky structure. Fine acidity keeps it fresh and gives length to a compact harmonious wine. Drink 2025-2032.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
5
6
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Pontet-Canet 5ème Cru Classé, 65% CS, 30% M, 3% CF, 2% PV
Château Clerc Milon 5ème Cru Classé, 51% CS, 34% M, 13% CF, 1% PV, 1% C
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 5ème Cru Classé, 74% CS, 23% M, 3% CF
Château d’Armailhac 5ème Cru Classé, 60% CS, 29% M, 9% CF, 2% PV
Owner Alfred Tesseron and winemaker Jean-Michel Comme continue to run the estate biodynamically and pick as late as they dare in order to achieve maximum ripeness. 35% of the crop is now aged in 900 litre concrete mini-vats rather than the traditional oak barrel in order to reduce the influence of oak on the wine. This is a big, full-bodied, very ripe wine, relatively tannic but with plenty of sweet, juicy fruit and just enough acidity to keep it fresh. Drink 2025-2035.
Xavier Borie quietly makes high quality, characterful, ageworthy Pauillac and sells it at a sensible price. Picked relatively early between 18th September and 4th October, this is a full-bodied, gutsy wine with good weight of fruit and fine, fresh acidity. Drink 2025-2035.
Château Croizet-Bages 5ème Cru Classé, 73% CS, 27% M After a long period of under-achievement, owner Jean-Philippe Quié has realised a great success at this relatively modestlysized 25ha estate. Splendidly situated on the Bages plateau adjacent to Châteaux Lynch-Bages and Grand-Puy-Lacoste, the potential is huge. The 2015 is rich and generous. It doesn’t yet have the depth and class of its prestigious neighbours but has fine ripeness and a most attractive, supple texture. Delicious Pauillac for relatively early enjoyment. Drink 2022-2028.
Splendidly situated fifth growth just across the D2 road from Châteaux Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild. Owned by Château Mouton Rothschild, director Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy has complete autonomy but all the back-up of Philippe Dhalluin and the Mouton Rothschild technical team. The cooler east facing vineyard has a higher proportion of merlot than at Mouton resulting in a softer, fresher style of wine. Drink 2024-2035.
Recently this estate, owned by Château Mouton Rothschild, has become one of the finest and best value Pauillac fifth growths. The proportion of cabernet franc in the vineyard has been steadily reducing as it is replaced with cabernet sauvignon giving a rich, concentrated wine with masses of red and black fruits on the nose and a splendid, generous texture whilst retaining lovely freshness and vitality. Drink 2024-2032.
Château Bellegrave Cru Bourgeois, 61% CS, 39% M Great value cru bourgeois whose vineyard lies just to the north of Château Latour. The estate is run by brothers Ludovic and Julien Meffre who make a full-bodied, gutsy Pauillac that displays a fine balance of ripe fruit and powerful tannins. Drink 2023-2030.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
7
SAINT JULIEN Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2ème Cru Classé, 95% CS, 5% M The richest, ripest and most succulent wine of Saint Julien. Bruno Borie harvested between 26th September and 6th October and has made a beautifully polished wine, fresh and ripe with fine depth and good length on the finish. This is no blockbuster. Rather it is supremely elegant with silky tannins and just enough acidity to give freshness to the sweet, juicy fruit. Will be aged in 100% new oak. Drink 2024-2038.
Château Léoville Poyferré 2ème Cru Classé, 65% CS, 26% M, 6% PV, 3% CF A rich, exuberant wine with masses of ripe fruit and a healthy dose of toasty oak. Owner, Didier Cuvelier, and wine-maker Isabelle Darvin have made a richly-textured wine. Follows neatly on from the magnificent and similarly concentrated 2014 but with riper tannins and sweeter finish. Drink 2026-2038.
Château Léoville Barton 2ème Cru Classé, 86% CS, 14% M As usual, this is one of the densest and most tannic wines of Saint Julien. Technical director, François Bréhant, has produced a wine with magnificent, rich blackcurrant and cedar aromas and intense, concentrated fruit on the palate. The ripe tannins and fresh acidity will guarantee a long life. Will be aged in 60% new oak. The most complete Léoville-Barton since the wonderful 2010. Drink 2027-2038. 8
Château Gruaud Larose 2ème Cru Classé, 60% CS, 31% M, 9% CF Typical, rich, fleshy Gruaud which has masses of ripe fruit. A new, steel watchtower has been built in the vineyard enabling wonderful views of the vineyards of Saint Julien but this quality of wine needs little advertisement. A lovely, complete wine with the sweet fruit balanced by good acidity. An impressive and enjoyable wine, the most succulent Gruaud since the delicious 2009. Drink 2024-2036.
Château Léoville Las Cases 2ème Cru Classé, 85% CS, 9% CF, 6% M First growth quality as is often the case at this fine estate that makes the most powerful and concentrated wine of Saint Julien. Maître de chai, Bruno Rolland, fermented at a slightly higher temperature in order to complete the fermentation more quickly resulting in fewer remontages and less extraction of tannins. This is a full-bodied, powerful wine with a closeknit texture and masses of concentrated, blackcurrant fruit. As good as the magnificent 2005 and 2009 vintages if maybe not quite up to 2010 in stature. Drink 2027-2040.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Langoa Barton 3ème Cru Classé, 54% CS, 38% M, 8% CF Made in the same cellar and by the same team as LéovilleBarton but the extra merlot gives a suppler, fleshier wine. Still has the usual firm Barton structure but the generosity of the vintage suits the style very well. Finishes sweet and long and will be enhanced by ageing in 60% new oak. Drink 2024-2035.
Château Branaire-Ducru 4ème Cru Classé, 65% CS, 26% M, 5% PV, 4% CF Almost identical assemblage to the 2014 vintage and shows similar fine, fresh, blackcurrant fruit aromas and lovely, closeknit texture on the palate. Gently-extracted, this has even riper fruit and delicious, generous finish. Another great success from owner Patrick Maroteaux and wine-maker Jean-Dominique Videau that maintains Branaire’s position as one of the very best crus classés outside of the first and second growths and a source of great value for money. Drink 2024-2036.
Château Gloria 60% CS, 27% M, 6% CF, 7% PV
Under the same ownership as Château Saint Pierre, this is as good as many of the Saint Julien crus classés. Rich and round with masses of ripe, spicy fruit. A delicious, forward style of Saint Julien, vividly fruity and finishes sweet and long. Will be aged in no more than 40% new oak in order to preserve all the fruit. Drink 2023-2030.
Clos du Marquis 66% CS, 31% M, 3% CF Not the second wine of Château Léoville Las Cases but a wine that stands on its own merits, made from vines situated on the western side of the D2 road where the soil has more clay and sand. For the first time in 2015 there is a second wine, La Petite Marquise, which has further enhanced the quality of the grand vin. Lovely, rich wine with fine depth and concentration. Has the classic Saint Julien blackcurrant nose, generous texture and long finish. Drink 2025-2035.
Château Moulin Riche 54% CS, 33% M, 11% PV, 2% CF No longer the second wine of Château Léoville-Poyferré (that is now Pavillon de Poyferré) but essentially a separate 22ha estate situated a kilometre to the west of the Poyferré vineyards. Full-bodied, gutsy wine made by Isabelle Darvin, the Poyferré oenologist, in the same swaggering style. Richer and more generous than the 2014, this has fine depth and is probably the best ever Moulin Riche. Drink 2023-2030.
Château du Glana Cru Bourgeois, 59% CS, 41% M
One of the few remaining crus bourgeois in Saint Julien but with Gloria by far the best. Run by brothers Julien and Ludovic Meffre, this was the second vintage to be made in the impressive new cellar. The 2015 is the best ever Château du Glana combining fresh ripe fruit flavours with great depth and concentration and a satisfying long finish. Drink 2022-2030.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
9
SAINT ESTEPHE Château Cos d’Estournel 2ème Cru Classé, 75% CS, 23.5% M, 1.5% CF
Château Calon-Ségur 3ème Cru Classé, 82% CS, 16% M, 2% PV
The fresher, more refined style of Cos seen last year has been maintained. New director Aymeric de Gironde and winemaker Dominique Arangoits seem to want to take Cos in a more elegant direction, harvesting earlier, extracting less and reducing the percentage of new oak. The 2015 is a modest (by Cos standards) 13.4% alcohol and has beautiful, fresh aromas, unusually silky tannins and a long, fresh finish. It will be aged in only 65% new oak barrels. Drink 2024-2035.
Technical director Vincent Millet has hugely improved quality since arriving from Château Margaux in 2007 and has closed the gap on Châteaux Cos d’Estournel and Montrose. Calon has, since 2009, been one of the finest and best value crus classés in the northern half of the Médoc. The September rain inevitably lightened the style of the 2015 and this is a delicious, forward wine with masses of ripe, red and blackcurrant fruit, a generous texture and a fine, fresh finish. The 2014 is denser and more structured but this is the most charming Calon of recent years. Made from only 40% of the crop with all the cabernet franc eliminated, the 2015 has 13.3% alcohol and fine balance of ripe fruit, tannin and acidity. Vincent Millet achieved sufficient structure by adding all (19% of the wine) the vin de presse. Drink 2023-2032.
Château Montrose 2ème Cru Classé, 67% CS, 29% M, 4% CF Only 36% of the crop was used for the grand vin, the strictest selection ever with the lower-lying plots of merlot near the estuary suffering most from the rain. This is a charming, delicious Montrose, less tannic than the 2014 with a soft, fleshy texture but no lack of flavour. Will give a huge amount of pleasure relatively quickly. Drink 2024-2035.
10
Château Lafon-Rochet 4ème Cru Classé, 54% CS, 35% M, 6% CF, 5% PV
The first vintage vinified by owner Basile Tesseron and technical director Lucas Leclerc in the new cuvier. Half the vats are now concrete and the 2015 is similarly structured to the delicious 2014 with a fine mixture of red and black fruits. This is a carefully-extracted wine, showing charm and freshness and no sign of the usual Saint Estèphe rustic edge. Drink 2023-2030.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Capbern Cru Bourgeois, 68% CS, 28% M, 4% PV Owned by Château Calon-Ségur but vinified in its own new cellar in the middle of the village of Saint Estèphe. Vincent Millet has made equally quick progress here and Capbern is one of the best value crus bourgeois in the Médoc. Masses of blackcurrant and plum fruit on the nose, carefully-extracted tannins and a long, fresh finish. Only 60% of the crop used for the grand vin, one of the strictest selections for a cru bourgeois. Drink 2022-2028.
Château Le Crock Cru Bourgeois, 50% CS, 31% M, 7% PV, 12% CF Another fine cru bourgeois owned by a famous cru classé, this time Château Léoville-Poyferré. The Poyferré oenologist, Isabelle Darvin, makes the wine in Le Crock’s own, modern cellar at the beautiful château immediately to the north of Cos d’Estournel. This is a rich, juicy wine. Carefully extracted with just the right amount of tannin, this is a little firmer than Capbern and has the richness and balance to age beautifully. Drink 2023-2030.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
11
MARGAUX Château Margaux 1er Grand Cru Classé, 87% CS, 8% M, 3% CF, 2% PV The last vintage made by Paul Pontallier who tragically passed away at the age of 59 just a couple of weeks ago having made over 30 vintages at Château Margaux. Only 35% of the crop was used for the grand vin, the produce of the finest plots situated on the gravel plateau just to the north of the château itself. This is soft and beautifully aromatic, with Lafite the most elegant of the Médoc first growths. Rich and seamless with a beautiful close-knit texture and lovely freshness despite the 13.5% alcohol, the highest ever attained at Château Margaux. Drink 2025-2040.
Château Lascombes 2ème Cru Classé, 50% CS, 47% M, 3% PV
I tasted the three component grape varieties separately at Lascombes with estate director Dominique Befve and it is clear that the cabernet sauvignon is of exceptional quality. Picked late from 7th to 15th October all the plots were over 13% potential alcohol whilst retaining good acidity. Befve is lightening the style a little with carefully extracted tannins and less (70%) new oak than in the past. The result is a rich, generous wine, finely structured, sweet and exuberant, probably the best Lascombes since Befve’s arrival in 2001. Drink 2024-2032.
12
Château Brane Cantenac 2ème Cru Classé, 70% CS, 26% M, 3% CF, 1% C Only 42% of the crop used for the grand vin, the fruit coming exclusively from the plateau of Cantenac right in front of the château itself. Owner, Henri Lurton, has been quietly improving quality here and this is a great success. As rich as the magnificent 2010 with a similar close-knit texture, but with silkier tannins and fresher aromas. Splendid, long aftertaste. Quintessential Margaux. Drink 2024-2032.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Rauzan-Ségla 2ème Cru Classé, 56% CS, 42% M, 1% PV, 1% CF John Kolasa retired last summer having been responsible for more than twenty vintages at Rauzan-Ségla. This is as good as any with beautiful, generous blackcurrant fruit and a hint of cedary oak. A great success, close to neighbouring Château Palmer in quality. Drink 2024-2032.
Château Palmer 3ème Cru Classé, 50% CS, 44% M, 6% PV The second vintage when 100% of the vines were cultivated biodynamically (they hope to be certified as such in 2017). There was also no sulphur added at harvest time, the first additions being made after the malolactic fermentation had finished. Rich and sumptuous with wonderful, plummy fruit and a hint of toasty oak. Full bodied, opulent wine with just enough acidity. Drink 2024-2035.
Château d’Issan 3ème Cru Classé, 65% CS, 35% M The 70th vintage since the Cruse family bought Issan in 1946. Emmanuel Cruse has worked wonders here since 2005 and the 2015 is as good as any. Low yields of 40hl/ha have given additional depth and concentration to a particularly ripe (13.8% alcohol) and generous wine. Shows quintessential Margaux freshness and elegance with soft tannins and lingering, sweet finish. Drink 2023-2033.
Château Giscours 3ème Cru Classé, 70% CS, 25% M, 5% PV Much less merlot in the blend here but very ripe with rich, concentrated blackcurrant and plum fruit on the nose and supremely silky on the palate. The tannins are ripe yet the high proportion of cabernet sauvignon gives great freshness and vitality. A great success from Alexander Van Beek and technical director Frédéric Ardouin, previously of Château Latour. Drink 2024-2034.
Château Malescot St Exupéry 3ème Cru Classé, 70% CS, 30% M Jean-Luc Zuger tends to pick late and makes lovely, rich, concentrated wine. The 2015 is no exception with a ripe, opulent bouquet and firm, dense structure. Built to last but with fine balance and charm. The tannins are well covered with ripe fruit so will be a joy to drink young but has great potential. Drink 2024-2034.
Château Angludet 50% CS, 40% M, 10% PV Similar blend of grape varieties to that in 2013 and 2014 but a richer, more generous wine with greater structure and length. Well-balanced with ripe tannins and fresh acidity to complement the glossy, blackcurrant fruit. The equal of many of the Margaux crus classés so should be excellent value. Drink 2024-2030.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
13
MEDOC Château Cantemerle
5ème Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 59% CS, 27% M, 8% CF, 6% PV This well-known cru classé, with La Lagune the most southerly in the Médoc, has made its best ever wine with more depth and concentration than either 2009 or 2010. Dark, rich and dense, it has a lovely mixture of red and black fruits, beautifully ripe tannins and a sweet, succulent finish. Picked very ripe at over 13.5% alcohol this is a great success and shows just how well the southern Médoc performed in 2015. Drink 2022-2030.
Château de Camensac
5ème Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 57% CS, 43% M This property owned by Céline Villars and her husband JeanPierre Foubet of Château Chasse-Spleen, should be one of the very best value crus classés in 2015. If the price remains reasonable, this rich, juicy wine will deserve a wide audience. Full-bodied with toasty oak and good acidity this finishes sweet and long. Drink 2022-2032.
Château La Lagune 3ème Cru Classé, Haut-Médoc, 60% CS, 35% M, 5% PV The whole estate is being farmed organically and Caroline Frey has made one of her best ever wines, comparable to the 2009 and 2010 in terms of richness and concentration. Full and firm with vivid fruit. Will be aged in 50% new oak. Drink 2024-2034. 14
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Fourcas-Dupré Cru Bourgeois, Listrac, 51% M, 48% CS, 1% PV Owner Patrice Pagès and maître de chai Gilles Bergerot continue to make brilliant progress at this 46ha property splendidly positioned at the highest point of the Médoc. They harvested their cabernet sauvignon at higher sugar levels than ever before, riper even than in 2009, 2010 and 2014. Lovely mixture of red and black fruits on the nose with just the right amount (one third) of new oak. Remarkably soft and generous on the palate for a Listrac. This will age very well and should be a bargain if the price remains reasonable. Drink 2023-2033.
Château Chasse-Spleen Cru Bourgeois, Moulis, 50% CS, 42% M, 5% PV, 3% CF
Big, gutsy wine with an elegant nose of blackcurrants and toasty oak. Robust and flavoursome, this has the structure to age well but will be enjoyable young due to the ripeness of the fruit. Drink 2023-2030.
Château Lacombe Noaillac Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, 50% M, 40% CS, 5% PV, 5% CF The home of Jean-Michel Lapalu, situated at Jau in the northern Médoc. The vineyard was completely replanted when Jean-Michel acquired the property in the 1980s and the vines are now 25-35 years old, giving a wine of fine depth and concentration. Vinified to be drunk younger than Patache d’Aux, this also ages remarkably well in the medium term as the delicious, open, plummy fruit is balanced by just the right amount of tannin. Drink 2019-2026.
Château Patache d’Aux Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, 70% CS, 25% M, 5% PV Jean-Michel Lapalu’s finest wine from an estate purchased by his father in 1964. Much of the vineyard was replanted in the 1960s and 1970s and these vines are now 40-50 years old and producing glorious wine. Aged in 35% new oak, this is slightly riper and richer than the 2014 with additional flesh and generosity. Drink 2021-2030.
Château Liversan Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc, 48% CS, 48% M, 4% CF Situated just outside the Pauillac appellation in the village of Saint-Sauveur but only a few kilometres from Châteaux Batailley and Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Liversan benefits from a fine gravel terroir and produces wine with plenty of Pauillac character. Impressive red and blackcurrant aromas. Rich and fleshy on the palate with just the right amount of tannin and acidity. Drink 2021-2030.
Château Leboscq Cru Bourgeois, Médoc, 48% M, 48% CS, 4% PV Splendidly situated on the banks of the Gironde, Château Leboscq has 30ha of deep gravel vineyards and makes a rich, full-bodied wine. The 2015 will be aged in mainly two-year-old oak barrels for twelve months and shows ripe cabernet fruit on the nose followed by a rich, fleshy mid-palate. Drink 2020-2027.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
15
POMEROL Vieux Château Certan Pomerol, 80% M, 20% CF Alexandre Thienpont considers his merlot to be as good as it was in 2010 with cabernet franc of similar quality to boot. This is a brilliant wine, rich and aromatic with vivid fruit, fine freshness and tremendous length. Drink 2023-2035
Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol, 92% M, 7.5% CF, 0.5% PV The property just to the north of Château Lafleur and Petrus has been quietly extended by the Moueix family over the years but quality has if anything risen as a result of more exigent work in the vineyard and more precision in the wine-making. Rich and juicy on the nose, this is both fresh and succulent and at least as good as the superb 2010. Drink 2022-2035.
Château La Conseillante Pomerol, 81% M, 19% CF New wine-maker Marielle Cazaux has taken over from JeanMichel Laporte but the inimitable style of La Conseillante continues. Beautiful, plummy fruit, rich texture and remarkable freshness. Weighing in at 14.5% alcohol but shows supreme elegance and great persistence on the finish. Drink 2022-2035.
16
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château La Croix de Gay Pomerol, 97% M, 3% CF
Château La Sergue Lalande de Pomerol, 80% M, 15% CF, 5% M
Chantal Lebreton has taken full charge of the family property situated on the northern, higher half of the Pomerol plateau. A new cellar has been built and the 2015 is her finest vintage yet with splendid, ripe fruit, a juicy, generous texture and a fine, tannic structure. Regularly one of the very best value Pomerols on the market. Drink 2023-2029.
From 45 year old vines within sight of the plateau of Pomerol, La Sergue is often called ‘poor man’s Petrus’. Fermented in wooden vats and aged in two-thirds new oak barrels, this is the richest La Sergue since the magnificent 2010. Splendidly rich and concentrated with a powerful, solid structure rounded out by delicious, ripe fruit. Most impressive. Just 25,000 bottles made. Drink 2022-2029.
Château Lafleur-Gazin Pomerol, 98% M, 2% CF
Château Haut Chaigneau Lalande de Pomerol, 90% M, 10% CF
9ha estate adjoining Château Lafleur and Gazin as the name implies. Full-bodied, meaty Pomerol with fine, fleshy texture, lovely fresh acidity and a sweet finish. Drink 2022-2028.
Clos Beauregard Pomerol, 100% M Well-positioned, great value Pomerol on the southern end of the plateau where the wines are softer and less dense. This has masses of bright fruit and a healthy dose of new oak. Promiscuous Pomerol that will give huge pleasure relatively soon. Drink 2021-2028.
The home château of the Chatonnet family, this shows just how good value Lalande de Pomerol can be. There will be 76,000 bottles of this delicious, forward, open, aromatic wine aged primarily in one year old barrels so as not to dominate the fruit. Generous to a fault, this will drink well relatively young and age gracefully. Drink 2020-2027.
Château Les Vieux Ormes Lalande de Pomerol, 85% M, 10% CF, 5% CS Jean-Paul Garde’s 20ha of gravel soils give a lighter, more elegant style of Pomerol. This has beautiful freshness as well as the rich succulence typical of the vintage. Drink 2020-2025.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
17
SAINT EMILION & THE COTES Château Ausone 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Saint Emilion, 50% CF, 50% M
Château Canon 1er Grand Cru Classé, Saint Emilion, 72% M, 28% CF
Just 7ha of south-east facing, precipitous vineyards make this the most sought after wine of Saint Emilion. Alain and Pauline Vauthier picked from 29th September to 10th October and will make 21,000 bottles of this fabulous, profound wine. Not quite as dense as the 2010 but supremely elegant with pure, fresh fruit aromas, a silky, close-knit texture and extremely long finish. A beautifully sculpted wine that is a candidate for the best wine of the vintage. Drink 2025-2040.
Beautifully fresh and elegant wine, one of the great successes of the Saint Emilion limestone plateau. Silky tannins, fine, clean and stylish. Finish sweet and long. Drink 2023-2032
Château Cheval Blanc 1er Grand Cru Classé A, Saint Emilion, 55% M, 45% CF There is no Petit Cheval in 2015, the whole crop being deemed to be of such quality that all could be sold as Cheval Blanc. A fine September allowed each plot to be picked at the optimum moment, the harvest stretching from 3rd September (the earliest start since 2003) to 6th October. A most impressive wine with magnificent, ripe fruit and a full-bodied, seamless texture. Builds in the mouth to a fabulous finish. Combines freshness with power, a great Cheval Blanc. Drink 2025-2040.
18
Château L’Archange Saint Emilion, 100% M A single 1.2ha plot of 35 year old merlot adjoining Châteaux Figeac and La Dominique is vinified by Pascal Chatonnet in his winery in Pomerol. Dense and concentrated, this has plenty of plummy fruit and ripe tannins. Drink 2023-2030.
Château Fonbel Saint Emilion, 80% M, 10% CS, 5% PV, 5% C Owned by Alain Vauthier of Château Ausone and vinified by the Ausone team at another of the Vauthier properties, Château Moulin Saint Georges. Fonbel lies further down in the plain away from the Côtes where the soil is sandier. Doesn’t have the class of Ausone but has fine, ripe, blackcurrant fruit and a rich, generous texture. The modest price makes it brilliant value in fine vintages such as 2015. Drink 2022-2028.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Jacques Noir Saint Emilion, 100% M Tiny 5.5ha property situated on the pieds de coteaux at St Etienne de Lisse. Acquired by the Ducourt family in 2001, the château and winery have been rebuilt and the vineyards renovated. The wine now is hugely improved and deserves a wider following. The price (at least for the moment) remains low so well worth buying. Drink 2020-2026.
Château Faizeau Montagne Saint Emilion, 95% M, 5% CF A 12ha estate planted with a high proportion of old vines. This wine is rich and generous with the balance of ripe tannins and fresh acidity. Shows just how good the Saint Emilion satellites are in 2015. Drink 2020-2026.
Château Plaisance Montagne-Saint Emilion, 95% M, 5% CS 30ha of vineyard just to the north of Saint Emilion in the village of Montagne. A soft generous wine which will be aged for twelve months in French oak barrels. Drink 2020-2026.
Château des Demoiselles Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, 75% M, 25% CS A lovely, forward, juicy wine bursting with red and black fruits. This is delicious and brilliant value. Drink 2020-2025.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
19
PESSAC-LEOGNAN & GRAVES Château Haut Brion 1er Grand Cru Classé, 50% M, 42% CS, 8% CF The uniquely warm micro-climate of Haut-Brion resulted in the merlot harvest starting on the 8th September with the cabernet sauvignon being completed by 5th October. Sugar levels were exceptionally high (merlot over 15% and cabernet sauvignon over 14%) resulting in a final alcohol level of 14.9%. Relatively cool temperatures in the run up to and during the harvest kept flavours fresh and acidity sufficient giving wines of great richness and harmony. The 2015 Château Haut-Brion is more complete than the 2014 but doesn't quite have the depth and concentration of the 2010. Jean-Philippe Delmas likens it to his 2005, a sentiment with which I heartily agree. Drink 2025-2040.
Château La Mission Haut Brion Cru Classé, 58% M, 35% CS, 7% CF Despite lying just across the road from Haut-Brion and sharing the same owners since 1983, La Mission continues to make a firmer, leaner wine but in 2015 the ripeness of the fruit (15.1%) has given additional flesh and opulence to the wine. Full bodied and richly textured with a sweet succulent finish. Drink 2025-2040.
20
Domaine de Chevalier Cru Classé, 65% CS, 30% M, 5% PV Domaine de Chevalier has made fabulous wine for decades but the last few years have seen a further increase in quality as the vineyard plantings of the 1980s and 1990s come of age. The 2015 is highly aromatic with masses of red and black fruits. The palate is seamless with silky, ripe tannins and it builds in the mouth to an explosive finish. Drink 2024-2035.
Château Haut-Bailly Cru Classé, 60% CS, 36% M, 4% PV This year estate director Véronique Sanders and technical director Gabriel Vialard have made the most generous and succulent Haut-Bailly ever, incorporating 4% petit verdot for the first time from a plot planted as recently as 2012. It shows the typical Haut-Bailly aromas of blackcurrant, plum and cedar but with a sweeter texture than normal. A finely balanced wine with a long lingering finish. Drink 2025-2038.
Château de Fieuzal Cru Classé, 70% CS, 10% M, 10% CF, 10% PV Estate director Stephen Carrier has made a rich, spicy, opulent yet fresh wine. He used less remontage and délestage as the ripe tannins were easy to extract. Lovely, blackcurrant fruit and great length on the finish. The price still lags behind the improved quality making this one of the best value Graves crus classés. Drink 2023-2030.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Vieux Château Gaubert Graves rouge, 50% CS, 50% M Dominique Haverlan owns the best estate of Portets in the central part of the Graves, just to the south of Léognan. Most of the vines are now 35 years old and giving rich, spicy wine. This will be aged in 40% new oak barrels and has fine, glossy fruit on the nose and a dense, ripe texture. Slightly more concentrated and noticeably more succulent than the impressive 2014. The best Gaubert since the splendid 2010. Drink 2022-2028.
Château Pique Caillou Pessac-Léognan, 55% CS, 40% M, 5% PV Paulin Calvet owns 22ha of vines in the Bordeaux suburb of Mérignac, just to the north-west of Château Haut Brion. Rich and spicy, this is a splendid success with plenty of gutsy fruit, lovely freshness and long aftertaste. Will be aged in 40% new oak. Drink 2022-2030.
Château Pontet-Caillou Pessac-Léognan, 50% CS, 42% M, 8% PV A small vineyard adjoining Domaine de Chevalier and sharing the same gravel soils. This is fresh and fruity with lovely, plummy fruit on the nose topped up with just the right amount of new oak. Ripe and generous on the palate with a fine, fresh finish. One of the best value wines of the appellation. Drink 2021-2027.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
21
DRY WHITES Château Haut Brion Blanc Pessac-Léognan, 69% Sauvignon, 31% Sémillon
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 70% Sauvignon, 30% Sémillon
Last year the Haut-Brion blanc was 68% sémillon after a disappointing performance from the sauvignon. This year the sauvignon has performed really well and Haut-Brion is back to its usual assemblage. Wonderfully aromatic with crisp grassy sauvignon allied to the touch of lemony sémillon. Full bodied, concentrated (14.3%) but with lovely vitality on the palate. Drink 2019-2025.
The finest and most mineral of the Léognan whites. The 2015 is bigger and richer than the 2014 but retains great freshness and minerality. A beautiful wine with delicate sauvignon aromas and tremendous depth and length on the palate. Will develop magnificently. Drink 2020-2028.
Château La Mission Haut Brion Blanc Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 67% Sémillon, 33% Sauvignon The usual preponderance of sémillon gives a wonderfully complex wine with beautifully fresh waxy aromas and a rich lively textured palates. High in alcohol (14.6%) but has fine balancing acidity and displays remarkable freshness. Drink 2019-2026.
22
Château de Fieuzal Blanc Pessac-Léognan, 55% Sauvignon, 45% Sémillon Stephen Carrier retains less bourbe in the must than in the past, preferring purity of flavour to power and concentration. He also avoids the use of highly toasted barrels and has introduced a number of larger 400 litre casks from Tonnellerie Baron finding that they give a more delicate oak flavour to the wine. The 2015 Fieuzal is, with Domaine de Chevalier, the finest white from Léognan with freshness and concentration in equal measure. Picked early from 5th to 10th September, it retains fine acidity whilst displaying fine, peachy aromas and a rich, generous texture. Drink 2018-2022.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Vieux Château Gaubert Blanc Graves Blanc, 60% Sauvignon, 40% Sémillon
Dominique Haverlan's fine estate at Portets in the heart of the Graves appellation produces one of the very best value barrelfermented white Bordeaux. After a short maceration the grapes are pressed and then fermented in 30% new oak barrels. Rich and aromatic, this has crisp, sauvignon aromas coupled with a richer texture from the sémillon. Drink 2016-2020.
Château Fourcas-Dupré Bordeaux Blanc, 80% Sauvignon, 20% Sémillon Patrice Pagès has planted a chalkier section of his vineyard with sauvignon and sémillon and makes this delicious, aromatic, barrel-fermented white on his fine estate in Listrac. Crisp and fresh with just a hint of oak, this is one of the best whites of the Médoc. Drink 2016-2019.
Château Thieuley Blanc Bordeaux Blanc, 45% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Sauvignon Gris, 3% Muscadelle Stylish, pure, unoaked white Bordeaux. Sisters Marie and Sylvie Courselle run this family-owned estate near Créon in the middle of the Entre-Deux-Mers. The 2015 is a little fatter and richer than the 2014 whilst retaining fine fresh acidity. Lovely, citrus aromas. Crisp and dry with plenty of ripe fruit on the palate and a long, mineral finish. Drink 2016-2018.
Château Pique-Caillou Blanc Pessac-Léognan, 80% Sauvignon, 20% Sémillon
Just 1.7ha of the estate is devoted to white wine. Fermented in one third each of new, one year old and two year old barrels, this is very fresh and clean with crisp, lemony acidity and bright, fruit flavours. Beautifully elegant with 12.7% alcohol and fine concentration from yields as low as 30hl/ha. Drink 2017-2020.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
23
SAUTERNES AND BARSAC Château d’Yquem 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes, 75% Sémillon, 25% Sauvignon
One of the richest Yquems of recent years with 13.9% alcohol, 144g/l residual sugar and a total acidity of 4g/l. After a hot summer, the harvest started as early as 3rd September on the warm gravel plots of the estate. A second ‘tri’ was made at the end of September after some welcome mid-September rain. A third passage was made through the vineyards between 8th and 12th October, principally on the clay soils and a final selection was made in the second half of October, the harvest eventually finishing on 21st October, making it one of the longest harvests on record. Relatively cool autumn conditions enabled the grapes to retain highly desirable acidity and the result is an intensely concentrated wine with fine, honeyed fruit, a lush, creamy texture and a spectacularly long finish. Drink 2024-2040.
Château Guiraud 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes, 65% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon
The whole estate is now farmed organically and owners, Olivier Bernard, Stephan Von Neipperg, Robert Peugeot, and Xavier Planty have found that the fruit is now riper and more concentrated as a result. This is one of the most elegant and mineral Sauternes of the vintage, the higher proportion of sauvignon giving a lift and crispness to the wine. Richer than the 2014 with 130g/l of residual sugar but fine balancing acidity and plenty of concentration and class. Drink 2020-2028.
24
Château Climens 1er Cru Classé, Barsac, 100% Sémillon
After three small crops owner Bérénice Lurton and technical director Frédéric Nivelle, pioneers of biodynamic viticulture in Sauternes, have picked a good sized harvest with yields of 20hl/ ha. 2015 completes another trio of fine Sauternes vintages with wines as rich as those in 2014. Picked earlier between 8th September and 5th October, the different lots have yet to be blended but all show high levels of alcohol and residual sugar with plenty of extremely ripe honeyed fruit and just enough balancing acidity. Drink 2021-2032.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
Château Coutet, 1er Cru Classé, Barsac 75% Sémillon, 23% Sauvignon, 2% Muscadelle The Baly family make, after Château Climens, the finest wine of Barsac. A truly elegant wine despite the 14% alcohol and 155g/l of residual sugar. Combines great concentration with finesse and class. If the price remains near last year’s level, this is definitely a wine to buy. Drink 2020-2028.
Château de Rayne Vigneau, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes
Château Doisy-Védrines, 2ème Cru Classé, Barsac 80% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon 14% alcohol and 132g/l of residual sugar. Owner Oliver Castéja and wine-maker Frédéric Deyres have been making consistently excellent Barsac since 2005 and this is as rich as anything they have produced. Reminds me of the 2009 which has immense power and concentration and is beginning to drink really well now. Drink 2020-2027.
80% Sémillon, 20% Sauvignon The first vintage made by new owners, the group Trésor du Patrimoine, on this magnificent 84ha estate immediately to the west of Château d’Yquem. A brilliant success with a touch of new oak complementing the rich, honeyed fruit on the nose and a full-bodied, opulent texture leading on to an impressive, long finish. Fine balance of 13.7% alcohol and 130g/l of residual sugar. Drink 2020-2028.
Château Lamothe-Guignard, 2ème Cru Classé, Sauternes
Château La Tour Blanche, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes
Château Broustet, 2ème Cru Classé, Barsac
83% Sémillon, 13% Sauvignon, 4% Muscadelle This estate often makes one of the richest and sweetest wines of Sauternes but in 2015 they have fashioned a supremely fresh and elegant wine, retaining the traditional opulence whilst also showing great poise and minerality. Perfect balance of 13.5% alcohol and 130g/l of residual sugar. Drink 2020-2028.
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle Philippe Guignard runs the finer of the two Châteaux Lamothe. Situated on north and west-facing slopes just to the south of Château La Tour Blanche, the style is one of fruit and class. There is a higher proportion of sémillon in the blend this year and the wine shows sumptuous, honeyed fruit balanced by crisp, fresh acidity. Drink 2019-2025. 75% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon, 10% Muscadelle The Merlaut family of Château Gruaud Larose have been in charge here since 2010 and this is probably the best yet. Delicious, medium to full-bodied wine of great class. 13.6% alcohol and 130g/l of residual sugar, a perfect balance. Lovely, fresh, honeyed fruit, a generous texture and long, crisp finish. The price remains absurdly low for such an improved estate. Drink 2019-2025.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
25
How our 2015 Bordeaux En Primeur Offer works:
The recommended wines This booklet represents my personal selection of the most successful wines of the vintage. I have tried to include wines at every level and from a wide spread of appellations. At the time of going to press we do not have prices of any of the châteaux so I cannot make ultimate judgements of value for money. There are other excellent wines that I have tasted that I will buy if the price is right. Conversely, I may decide that the price asked for some of my chosen wines is too high.
Let us have your wish list Please let us know as soon as possible if there are any specific châteaux (whether they are on my list or not) in which you are interested and we will make you an offer as soon as the wine is released.
Prices by email As the châteaux release their wines onto the market, we will send out the prices by email. If you have not already received any 2015 Bordeaux information from us by email, please let us have your email address so that we can keep you informed.
Order by email, telephone or fax Email:
[email protected] Telephone: 020 7821 1337 Fax: 020 7821 1626 We would urge you to place your order as quickly as possible. Even in less hyped vintages the châteaux often have a limited supply and the most successful wines sell out within hours. Timetable We expect the individual châteaux to release their prices at any time between now and the end of June. The wine is sold whilst still lying at the châteaux for delivery after bottling. i.e. 2015 Bordeaux will be shipped to the UK in spring/summer 2018. For further information or to place an order, please contact: Charles Taylor M.W., Louisa de Faye-Perkins, Katie Withers Green or Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler Telephone: 020 7821 1337
26
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
11 CATHERINE PLACE WESTMINSTER LONDON SW1E 6DX
Telephone: 020 7821 1337 Fax: 020 7821 1626
[email protected]
Charles Taylor M.W.
[email protected]
Louisa de Faye Perkins
[email protected]
Katie Withers Green
[email protected]
Poppy de Courcy-Wheeler
[email protected]
Niina Cunynghame-Lang
[email protected]
Jenny Blanks
[email protected]
Terms and conditions Wine will be invoiced at an IN BOND price, lying at London City Bond, Creek Road and excludes costs such as duty, VAT and delivery charges. The IN BOND price for the wine must be paid for at the time of the order. The duty, VAT and delivery are due, if applicable, when the wines are shipped in 2018. Wine is generally sold in 12x75cl bottle cases (i.e. 9 litres) and we supply all ‘En Primeur’ purchases in this size unless otherwise instructed. Wine can be bottled in different formats: Halves 24x37.5cl, Magnums 6x150cl, Double Magnums 3x300cl etc. There is a surcharge for this; please specify your requirements at time of ordering. We ask that your minimum total order of wines from the 2015 vintage is 6 cases or £500.
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
27
11 CATHERINE PLACE WESTMINSTER LONDON SW1E 6DX
Telephone: 020 7821 1337 Fax: 020 7821 1626 email:
[email protected] 28
MONTRACHET FINE WINE MERCHANTS - 020 7821 1337
