2014 FIREWORK FEARS: HOW TO HELP YOUR ANIMAL COPE. Elliott J. Payne Sarah Packman

10/27/2014 FIREWORK FEARS: HOW TO HELP YOUR ANIMAL COPE Elliott J. Payne | Sarah Packman FIREWORK FEARS: HOW TO HELP YOUR ANIMAL COPE There is an ...
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10/27/2014

FIREWORK FEARS: HOW TO HELP YOUR ANIMAL COPE

Elliott J. Payne | Sarah Packman

FIREWORK FEARS: HOW TO HELP YOUR ANIMAL COPE There is an estimated 20% of the dog population that have some level of sensitivities to noises, with up to 49% of dogs having fearful reactions to fireworks. Most of these animals have formed coping mechanisms that allow them to manage over the firework season. However, there are some individual animals that have formed ‘inappropriate’ behaviours which become challenging to manage, and will likely become more severe if left untreated. Understanding the reasoning behind your dog’s fear of fireworks usually provides better success rates in managing the condition. The first step in managing the condition is knowing where your animal fits in terms of how apprehensive your animal is to a stimulus.

ANXIETY:

where the animal anticipates a negative outcome to an unknown threat and

therefore the body and mind adjust to whether they need to ‘fight or flight’ from the situation.

FEAR: the animal has an emotional response to an existing stimulus and regards it as potentially dangerous. The animal therefore avoids the situation to increase its chances of survival. A fearful animal is more likely to deteriorate in their behaviour, or develop other fears unrelated to fireworks. There are 2 broad types of fear: 1) Temperamental – where there is some genetic influence and traits are partially inherited 2) Developmental – a. where there is no positive encounter with a trigger during growth of the animal, eg being poorly raised in puppy farms; b. through chronic stress eg repeated mild stimuli that the animal eventually becomes fearful of it, or c. through association with a traumatic experience. These tend to be more easily managed than other developmental fears

PHOBIA: a sudden, excessive fear that occurs with or without the presence of stimuli – any association with the memory can generate a response. These phobias are more challenging to manage effectively than anxiety or fears.

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PRESENTATION An animal that has a sensitivity towards a certain stimuli / situation and displays body language that is excessive in intensity or duration. •

They can be obvious eg: elimination / soiling, cowering, apparent aggression, vocalization, running and hiding



Or subtle: decreased activity levels, salivation, swallowing, hairs on end, yawning, pacing, shyness, self-grooming

Cats tend to present differently as they do not like drawing attention to themselves so their main signs tend to be hiding under beds and units. They can also show increased elimination in the house with increased territory marking by head rubbing or scratching.

TREATMENT In order to treat the animal from a fear of fireworks, we need to first of all distinguish what aspect of fireworks the animal is sensitive to. This could be though loud / sudden bangs, the high-pitched frequency of a firework being released, seeing the firework explode in the sky, or the more peculiar aspects such as the smell of fireworks or bonfires, the presence of visitors during firework displays, barometric pressures in thunderstorm-sensitive animals, or even just being trapped indoors, which many cats do not like. Improvement is possible in over 90% of animals if a behavioural therapy is performed, but a complete ‘cure’ from noise sensitivities is infrequent. We therefore need to manage the owner of the animal, the environment around us, and the animal itself.

1. EDUCATION AND OWNER BEHAVIOUR The owner plays a major aspect in noise-fearing pets. Reassuring animal when they are showing inappropriate behaviour has the opposite effect and actually reinforces the inappropriate behaviour. A pseudophobia in attention seeking animals may also occur when the animal knows they will get more attention from the owner if they show the inappropriate behaviour. To distinguish a pseudophobic animal from a noise sensitive dog is usually through other clinical signs. They tend not to have changes in their heart rate or respiration rate either. First-time owners more likely to own a noise-sensitive dog as they are more than likely to reassure animals

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Punishment as an action is never adequate as it only escalates the animal’s fearful response. It also causes the animal to ‘cover up’ any subtle behaviours, making them more at risk of growling, snarling and snapping. Recognising the early subtle behaviours early allows the owner to act appropriately before the situation escalates to a more aggressive form.

THE LADDER

OF

AGGRESSION (on the left) is a

graphic representation of how a dog’s behaviour can slowly escalate up the ‘rungs’ of a ladder and eventually make the dog become more aggressive towards a stimulus. Recognising the lower-rung gestures is important so that the trigger can be quickly removed. Understanding the rungs can also allow us to understand how effective treatment is. Eg the dog now holds its ears back instead of tucking their tail under.

Perceiving a stressor early and acting appropriately towards the dog to help remove them from a trigger requires good communication between the owner and the animal. This is a long-term approach that builds the bond between pet and owner. The LONG-

TERM MANAGEMENT OF NOISE FEAR sheet on page 8 provides a step-by-step guide to securing this bond.

To help the animal on the night of fireworks, you can walk the dog earlier in the evening before the fireworks are set off. Keeping the dog on the lead helps stop the animal bolting if fireworks are let off. Headcollars can be used [if applicable] and can sometimes help by providing a state of relaxation to the animal in some cases. Making sure your animal is microchipped with up-to-date details is vital especially if the animal bolts. When indoors, keep calm around the animal at all times, and ignore any inappropriate behaviour. Trying to keep calm while an animal is showing inappropriate behaviours is understandably very difficult, but perseverance is essential. Putting on a comedy film or TV show to help relax and make you laugh can also rub off on the animal as they are very effective at picking up human behaviour and body language, and may settle more easily if you are happy. Human comfort is also why leaving an animal on their own during fireworks is never appropriate.

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2. CHANGES TO THE ENVIRONMENT The aim of changes to the environment is to minimise the contact of the animal to the stimuli. One of the best ways of achieving this is to build a den which provides a ‘safe haven’ for the animal to feel more comfortable in during times of stress. It is best to locate the den away from windows and ideally where the animal normally feels most secure, eg behind a sofa, under stairs etc. The den can be made out of anything – crates, pens, chairs, baby gates etc. The den should be erected before the start of the fireworks season so the animal gets used to the area, and has enough positive sessions in the den to be able to feel comfortable (eg. play, feeding, massaging). Using heavy blankets and duvets provide a source of comfort, but also muffles against noises. An example of a den is shown below:

Cats tend to change the location of where they feel most comfortable, so multiple dens may be required. They tend to use height as an advantage, so locating the den on tops of cupboards or units (if possible) will help. The use of pheromones such as Adaptil for dogs, and Feliway for cats have been found to decrease the intensity or duration of many behaviours when used with a behavioural modification technique. The plug in diffusers can take up to 7 days to have an effect, but the use of sprays and collars can work within 30 minutes once applied to the dog, or sprayed around the animal’s secure environment. Make sure that you close all cat flaps, windows and doors to prevent the animal becoming startled and bolting outside. Playing music with a strong beat can be used to mask firework noises as long as the music itself does not panic the animal.

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3. CHANGING PET BEHAVIOUR The aim of changing the animal’s behaviour is to increase the chance and duration of appropriate behaviours during fireworks. This works on desensitisation against the noises, and then counter-conditioning the animal to associate the noises with positive, pleasant associations. This takes time and builds upon the pet-owner bond reinforced in the long-term management of noise fear sheet with the DESENSITISATION AND COUNTER-

CONDITIONING protocol (Page 9). The use of recorded firework noises, such as those from the Sounds Scary! iTunes application, to the Zylkène Sound Desensitisation Programme CD are required to provide a low-level stimuli that the animal should just respond to without eliciting a fear response. Positive praise is used to reinforce the appropriate behaviour. Once the animal is used to the low noise, the CD can be progressed for longer periods, or a higher noise. It can take weeks to months for an animal to become desensitised, and depends on the individual, and not the severity of signs of animal was showing before the behavioural modification protocol. It has been shown that the frequency of using the CD, rather than the duration leads to a better success rate

A novel approach to making animals feel secure is through the use of Thundershirts which is a soft coat that covers the animal, similar to swaddling babies - the feeling of being held and recreating the restricted but safe space of the womb. Feeding a dog particular foods may be able to help calm their behaviour too. Eating protein-rich foods that are high in Vitamin B6 and tryptophan (eg turkey, liver, tuna, yoghurt, chickpeas) which is then absorbed and is converted to serotonin – a natural calming hormone. Increasing the molecules uptake is helped through the use of another hormone, insulin, which increases from the intake of carbohydrates, such as brown rice, or uncooked carrots and broccoli. Distracting the animal from noises through the use of toys and treats such as Kong food-filling toys, or puzzle feeders helps to stimulate the animal and shown to decrease anxiety in dogs. If the animal still behaves inappropriately, medical management may be needed to complement the behavioural therapy

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4. PHARMACOLOGICAL THERAPY PHEROMONES AND NUTRACEUTICALS Adaptil / Feliway diffusers, sprays and collars Synthetic molecules adapted from secretions of the bitch / queen shortly after giving birth. Used along with a behavioural modification CD, there was a greater reduction in owner-seeking behaviour, vigilance, restlessness and salivation. Zylkène A molecule derived from milk protein (casein) that is believed to bind to receptors in the brain to ‘mimic’ neurotransmitters that produces a decrease in stress levels. The capsules can last for 24 hrs.

MEDICATIONS Use of medication may be required if there are extreme reactions to the lowest, barely audible sounds on desensitisation CDs. Alprazolam / Diazepam A medication that has a stronger affinity to receptors that Zylkène binds to. It works best if given 30 mins before a fear-inducing event, and lasts 6-8 hours. Alprazolam can also create amnesic effects, therefore reducing the chance of the dog’s inappropriate behaviour escalating during fireworks, and support the use of long-term behavioural modification. Chlorphenamine Used mainly under the brand name Piriton, chlorphenamine is an antihistamine used for treating allergic skin disease and other allergies in dogs and cats. Like humans, chlorphenamine can cause drowsiness in some individuals and can therefore provide some benefit in those animals that are showing mild behaviours to fireworks Others Specific medications may be warranted for those animals that are showing phobic tendencies towards fireworks and other fears. Clomipramine (Clomicalm) is used to treat animals that show major destruction and elimination in the house. It is also used for separation anxiety in dogs. Selegiline (Selgian) can be used to help those animals showing depression and anxiety and those that are more likely to freeze during sensitive stimuli. Can also be used for canine cognitive dysfunction in older dogs. It must be noted that the use of ACP / Acepromazine is no longer recommended as it only sedates animals instead of tranquilising them, resulting in the animal still being sensitive to the stimuli, but unable to respond, exacerbating the problem.

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SUMMARY Noise-sensitive animals show inappropriate behaviours because they have worked in the past. In order to treat these sensitivities a behavioural modification protocol needs to be followed, along with the aid of pheromones, nutraceuticals and altering the environment to suit the animal. In animals that are unable to cope, or struggle during the desensitisation treatment medication can be used to complement treatment, and not as a substitute. The following is a quick check list to run through in the lead up to a fireworks event:

What to do leading up to fireworks: • Work through LONG-TERM MANAGEMENT OF NOISE FEAR and DESENSITISATION AND COUNTER-CONDITIONING sheets with use of CDs • Make sure your dog is microchipped with the correct details! Larkmead provide free scanning service if you can no longer find your pet’s microchip number. To make sure your details are correct you can call PetLog: www.petlog.org.uk General Enquiries: 01296 336579 Lost & Found: 01296 737600

• Make a den and get animal used to it through interaction with toys and treats • Plug in Adaptil and/or Feliway diffusers What to do on the night: •

Walk the dog earlier in the evening (before dark)



On a lead to prevent bolting – Headcollars can sometimes be reassuring to the animal



Close doors, windows and catflaps



Draw curtains closed



Fit a thundershirt



Use adaptil / feliway sprays and collars



Try and stay calm – Watch a comedy film / programmes



Radio with drum beats to mask noise



Feed a protein-rich diet in early evening, shortly followed by carbohydrate one



Treats and toys can be used to reduce anxiety and help distract the animal and owner



Don’t reassure or punish. Ideally ignore inappropriate behaviours



Don’t leave your pet alone

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LONG-TERM MANAGEMENT OF NOISE FEAR Behavioural modification is required to change the animal’s thoughts of a noise so that it is no longer associated with a negative emotion. It tries to change the animal’s understanding so that the inappropriate behaviour is no longer required and that a new, appropriate behaviour is the better result. Before using a Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning (DSCC) Programme, detailed overleaf, the following steps need to be taken:

ESTABLISH A GOOD METHOD OF COMMUNICATION BETWEEN OWNER AND PET    

A consistent, predictable relationship will allow improved obedience during management of noise fears. An example is getting the animal to perform a task, eg ‘sit’ before any interaction. Use treats to help reinforce the animal when they perform the task on command, or spontaneously. Clickers and bells can be used to help reinforce them. For cats, identify relaxed and calm postures or behaviours and reinforce using food, toys or petting. It is essential that the animal knows what is expected (by asking to sit etc) rather than scolding for doing wrong things

IGNORING AND INTERRUPTING INAPPROPRIATE BEHAVIOUR   



Interacting with the animal while they are performing an inappropriate behaviour can inadvertently reinforce the particular behaviour and can cause it to escalate further Ignoring the particular behaviour reduces the risk of that behaviour being reinforced. This includes making eye contact with your pet. Indirectly playing with the cat or dog’s toy without calling the animal over may distract the animal from their inappropriate behaviour instead. If they come over and start playing, you can then reward them for the good behaviour If it is impossible to ignore the behaviour, try and interrupt them as soon as possible. o Give them a calm recall command (‘sit’, ‘down’ etc) o No yelling or scolding

The information on the following pages is a step-by-step guide to help the animal become desensitized to the noise using a CD or the Sounds Scary! iTunes download. The technique requires good communication of both owner and the animal, with strong positive reinforcement when the correct behaviour is achieved (eg a tasty treat when sitting calmly).

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TREATING A NOISE FEAR USING DESENSITIZATION AND COUNTER-CONDITIONING PROGRAMME nd

Emily D. Levine. BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioural Medicine, 2 Edition

Recordings of a fear-inducing noise can be used as part of a desensitization and counter-conditioning (DSCC) programme. It is suggested that such training should begin at least 2 months prior to the noise season and that short training sessions should take place up to eight times a week.

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CREATE A LOCATION THAT THE DOG WILL ASSOCIATE WITH CALM, RELAXING EVENTS   

2

EXPOSE THE DOG TO THE SOUND TO WHICH IT IS SENSITIVE AT A VERY LOW LEVEL  



3

Create a ‘safe haven’. This can simply be a towel, blanket or dog bed that the dog only associates with positive calming activities, such as massage or calm obedience exercises. This ‘safe haven’ should be created well before actually starting to use it as part of the DSCC programme. If desired, the area may be sprayed with dog appeasing pheromone (Adaptil).

Use a CD player, with the speakers elevated and spread apart, to mimic a more natural event. Play the sound at the lowest level that elicits: o No sustained response (may not be possible) o A very transient orientating response (eg dog turns head towards noise) o A transient anxiety response that lasts only 10 – 30 seconds Ideally, the dog will be in its ‘safe haven’ when the noise starts, to help keep their anxiety or fear levels low.

TRY TO CHANGE THE DOG’S PERCEPTION BY ASSOCIATING THE LOW-LEVEL NOISE WITH SOMETHING POSITIVE 

 

As the noise recording is playing, start to give the dog high-value treats. If it is a rain or wind sound, give treats consistently. If it is fireworks or thunder, it may be desirable to wait to give a treat until after the loud bang. Other methods of counter-conditioning include the use of games as a reward, such as playing ball or tug-of-war if the dog is motivated by this. If the dog likes to work, they can be asked to perform ‘sit’, ‘down’ etc. during the noise recordings.

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4

STRENGTHEN THE RESILIENCE AND RESPONSE OF THE DOG 

  

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Once the dog no longer shows any signs of anxiety or fear at a low level of noise, is willing to engage in another activity (food, games, commands) and has body postures that indicate he/she is not anxious or fearful, increase the volume on the recording. Allow the dog 10 – 30 seconds to habituate to that increase in noise before making efforts to engage the dog by giving treats, doing calm exercises etc. Once the dog does well, an attempt to escalate to playing a game can be made. As the training proceeds, the volume of the recording should be increased, based on the individual’s behavioural progress, until loud sounds can be played without causing a fear response.

MAKE THE EVENT MORE REALISTIC  

Once the dog is used to loud sounds, other stimuli associated with that noise event can be associated with it at low levels. For example, to mimic a storm, spray water on a window to sound like rain hitting the glass.

Sources and Thanks to: nd

BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behavioural Medicine 2 Edition Evaluation of dog-appeasing pheromone as a potential treatment for dogs fearful of fireworks, G. Sheppard, D. Mills Management of noise fears and phobias in pets, D. Mills Canine fears and phobias; a regime for treatment without recourse to drugs, J. Rogerson Body Language of Fear in Dogs, S. Yin Promotional material from Zylkène, Adaptil and Feliway.

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