Handout
H14.1.1
Your salon’s requirements for client preparation It is important to ensure that the client and his clothing are well protected before drying and finishing his hair. As a minimum it is recommended that the routine below is followed:
State your salon’s procedure for preparing clients for drying hair to shape to create a finished look
Work station •
•
• • •
chair to be clean and dry, worktop to be clean and tidy and free from hairs products and equipment on display to be clean and free from dust and debris tools to be cleaned and sterilised before use all electrical tools to be visually checked for safety all tools and equipment needed to carry out the service to be positioned for ease of use.
Client • •
clean gown to be placed on the client and properly secured clean towel to be placed around the client’s shoulders and secured to prevent it from falling off.
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Suggest ways of improving these procedures.
Handout
H14.1.2
The expected service times for drying and finishing men’s hair You must be able to demonstrate that you can dry and finish a man’s hairstyle in the time set within the NVQ/SVQ. This indicates your competence against the national standards. It is unusual – although not unknown, for a man just to have his hair blow-dried. Most men have their hair cut before a blow dry so the NVQ/SVQ does not set a time for the completion of a blow dry as a separate service, it is included in the time for a cut and finish. You must not only be able to complete a haircut and blow dry but you must also be able to complete it in a time that the industry considers to be commercially viable. The maximum time that has been set by the NVQ/SVQ to do a cut and finish is 30 minutes. This means that, from the time the client sits in the chair to the time when he stands up to leave, no more than 30 minutes may have passed. You must be able to work accurately at this speed in order to remain profitable to the salon. If you spend too much time on each client your turnover of business may not be sufficient to ensure that you do not lose your job. The salon must be able to plan and implement an efficient appointment or queuing system. If it operates an appointment system (and many barber shops now do this) it must be able to assign the correct time to each service so it allocates a reasonable time to be spent on each type of service, and each barber must work to this time. © Copyright 2003 Consumer Services Industry Authority - all rights reserved.
If the salon works to a queuing system you must be able to estimate the time the client will have to wait to have his hair cut. By operating these systems effectively a better service can be offered to clients – the salon can ensure that they are not kept waiting beyond their appointment time or that they can choose whether to wait or whether to return when the salon is less busy. It also means that the salon can make best use of resources and the working time of its staff. What will happen if you fail to work within the times as set by the NVQ/SVQ?
Handout
H14.1.3
COSHH COSHH is one of the Regulations that stem from the Health & Safety at Work Act. COSHH stands for – Control of Substances Hazardous to Health and means that there have to be controls over the use of all chemicals or other substances that could cause damage to health or be a threat to the safety of the people using them. Note the difference between a hazard and a risk: A hazard is something that could be harmful, a risk is when the chance of harm being caused is increased. For example, an aerosol is a hazard because it is a container that is manufactured in such a way that the contents are under great pressure. The risk of the container causing damage to people and premises is increased if it is stored or disposed of incorrectly. It must not be stored near a heat source. For example, in a sunny window, it must not be punctured or placed in an incinerator or the container might implode.
This is called risk assessment. Salon owners must carry out a risk assessment to help them to decide the best way of controlling the substance and, therefore, of reducing the risk. When stylists do a risk assessment it can help them to identify the potentially harmful products in the salon and what to do in the case of: • • • •
accidental spillage ingestion entry to the eyes damage to the skin.
Your salon will have carried out a risk assessment of the products held or used within it and this will give you specific information about how to handle them and any precautionary requirements of the products. All salon workers must comply with the COSHH requirements to use, handle, store and dispose of hairdressing substances properly. If you use the acronym SHUD (Store, Handle, Use, Dispose of) you may find it easier to remember what the requirements are. Store Handle Use Dispose of COSHH tells you how you SHUD work.
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Handout
H14.1.4
Electricity at Work Regulations The purpose of these Regulations is to state that electrical equipment must be adequately maintained and checked by a qualified person.
If you were unsure of how to use an electric styling tool how would you find out the correct way to use it?
You must comply with the responsibilities under the Regulations: •
• • •
•
you must visually check if the equipment is safe for use by checking the flex and the plug the equipment should only be used for its intended purpose you should make sure that you know how to use it when you have finished with the equipment, switch off and remove from the power source store the equipment safely away when not in use
A written record of the equipment tests that have been carried out by a qualified person should be kept and should be made available for inspection. It is your responsibility to ensure that any faulty equipment that you find in your workplace is removed from use, labelled as faulty and reported to a relevant person.
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State the name of the person in your salon to whom you would report faulty electrical equipment.
Handout
The range of protective clothing and materials available for clients You must make sure that the client’s clothing is well protected before styling hair. As a minimum it is recommended that the routine below is followed: Protective clothing and materials used when styling hair are: • •
towels gowns.
Ensure that all protective clothing and materials are securely placed and that the client is comfortable before proceeding to dry and finish the hair.
How to position your client and yourself to minimise fatigue and the risk of injury You must ensure that the client is seated comfortably with his back against the chair. If he sits in a hunched or slouched position or if you stand in the wrong place while drying and finishing his hair it will result in an unsatisfactory outcome: •
•
when the client is incorrectly seated you will not be able to see or reach easily, you may have to stretch or crouch down to reach some parts of the head if you stand on one side of the client and dry hair that grows on the other side the result will be uneven – one side will be more full than the other
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•
H14.2.1
if you stand in the wrong position there is a risk of burning the client with heated styling tools.
Suggestion Learn to use styling tools and equipment with both hands – this helps to create a balanced effect. You must make sure that you stand correctly when styling hair if you are to minimise the risk of becoming very tired very quickly and possibly causing long term damage to your muscles. In addition, if your posture is correct, a better working position is achieved. This will help you to increase speed and become more effective. You should stand with legs straight and feet slightly apart to maintain balance and even distribution of your weight. Try to remain relaxed, keep your head up and avoid stretching or bending. When you become tired you lose concentration. This causes you to become slower and less effective. Good positioning allows you to work on clients more easily and efficiently.
Handout
The importance of positioning equipment for ease of use There are two main reasons for positioning equipment for ease of use: • •
to make sure that your tools are available when you need them to provide an efficient method of work throughout the service.
If you fail to gather together all the tools that you will need then it is likely that you will waste time in looking for something during the service. This means that the client will have to wait while you find the tools and this may make him feel irritated. The result may be that you will lose a client. A good barber is well organised – s/he will set out clean tools and equipment before starting to work on every client.
Some barbers are unaware of the amount of tension that they apply to the hair when they are styling it. If the hair is stretched or pulled during the styling process it may cause discomfort to the client and damage to the hair. If the air flow from the dryer is directed from the points to the roots of the hair it will damage the cuticle. If you hold the nozzle of the dryer too close to the hair or scalp or hold it there for too long it will burn. You must follow the basic rules relating to safety and client comfort when you style and finish hair: •
•
• Is it necessary to sterilise brushes?
The safety considerations which must be taken into account when styling and finishing hair Some of the equipment that is used during styling and finishing hair can cause damage to the hair and/or the scalp. Most styling equipment is heated and, if the air from the dryer is too hot or is directly applied in one area for too long, it will damage the hair or the skin.
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H14.2.2
you must avoid excessive tension on the hair – don’t pull it with your fingers or the brush you should ensure that the air flow from the dryer is directed from the roots towards the points you must avoid concentrating the heat in one place for too long Remember that, even after the dryer is switched off, the nozzle remains hot for a little while.
Handout
H14.2.3
Why it is important to keep your work area clean and tidy
Methods of working safely and hygienically
As a professional barber it benefits you and your salon if you keep up a good appearance.
The Health & Safety at Work Act requires that all people work safely. This is to help prevent accidents. We also have a duty to our clients to provide a hygienic environment in which they can have their hair done. This is to reduce the spread of disease.
This applies to your work area as well as to your own appearance. If your work area is untidy and dirty the client is likely to think that he is not going to get a good service. If it is always clean and tidy it will create a professional image of the salon and of yourself.
Working safely and hygienically You must ensure that you:
A dirty work area allows bacteria to multiply and infections are likely to be spread from one client to another or between client and barber.
•
You have a duty to provide a hygienic environment for clients and by so doing you will minimise the risk of spreading infection.
• •
• •
check the safety of all electrical equipment clean and sterilise tools direct the air flow from the hair dryer towards the points of the hair use clean protective materials avoid concentration of heat in one place for too long.
You must also: An untidy work area often contains hazards – loose, trailing wires, sharp cutting tools within easy reach, towels and gowns draping over chairs, etc. By keeping work areas tidy the hazards are reduced.
• • • •
keep your work area clean and tidy throughout the service use all tools with care ensure that you use tools only for their intended purpose position the client for comfort and ease of working ensure you dispose of all waste according to local bye-laws and salon requirements.
Summary: The reasons why work areas should be left clean and tidy are:
•
•
By following the above guidelines you can help to ensure that you work safely and hygienically and that clients can have their hair done in a healthy, safe and hygienic salon.
• •
to keep up a professional image of yourself and the salon to minimise the risk of passing infection from person to person to reduce hazards
Whose responsibility is it to ensure that the work area is left clean and tidy?
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Handout
H14.2.4
The importance of personal hygiene The most important thing a client wants when he comes to a barber shop is good hairdressing. If the barber provides a good service to a high standard then the client is likely to return. However, if the barber does not ensure that their personal hygiene is of the same high standard as their hairdressing the client may not come back. Body odour (BO) can be the result of insufficient cleanliness.
Oral hygiene must be kept up by frequently brushing your teeth and visiting the dentist regularly to ensure that you have no decaying teeth. Bad teeth can cause bad breath.
Human skin contains sweat glands that secrete waste in the form of sweat. Bacteria need warm, moist conditions to be able to multiply. There are lots of harmless bacteria in the sweaty, warm folds of the body – the groin and in the armpits, etc. When bacteria die they decompose, they decay, and this is what causes odour.
Dirty hands and fingernails could carry infectious diseases or infestations from one client to another. Therefore it is important to ensure that your hands are sanitises between clients.
If a person washes thoroughly at least every 24 hours it is unlikely that they will have BO unless they do not also change their clothing. All clothing that comes into contact with the skin, especially the type that is in contact with the armpits and groin, must be changed once a day. The clothing absorbs sweat and if this is not washed or dry cleaned out of the fabric it will smell.
•
Some people try to cover the smell of unwashed skin or clothing by using deodorants. It is not possible to do this – the odour is still noticeable to others although the person themselves may not be aware of it. Antiperspirants and deodorants are designed to be used on clean skin and should never be applied to unwashed skin. © Copyright 2003 Consumer Services Industry Authority - all rights reserved.
Hairdressing is a very personal service and the personal hygiene and appearance of the people who work in the industry is of great importance. You must pay close attention to:
hygiene • •
daily shower or bath the use of antiperspirants and deodorants oral (mouth) hygiene.
appearance • • • • •
hair and makeup – the latter relating mainly to female barbers hands and nails shoes jewellery posture.
Handout
Why it is important to check electrical equipment used to aid the styling and finishing process The Electricity at Work Regulations require that all electrical equipment be in a condition that is safe. One way of checking for obvious faults is to visually check the plug and flex of the equipment. Look for loose wires, areas of the plug that look as if they have been burnt, or breaks in the flex, etc. It is important that this basic check is made before using electric styling and finishing equipment: • •
to minimise the risk of injury to yourself or others to ensure that the equipment is in good working order.
Accidents can be avoided if you make this simple, quick check before starting to use the equipment.
The importance of using products economically Every business has to operate efficiently and effectively. By so doing it can provide a good service to its clients as well as ensuring financial success for the salon and job security for the staff. One of the ways of providing a high quality service is to have a wide range of products available for sale and use but this requires the outlay which can be expensive.
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H14.2.5
The barber shop owner will calculate the amount of stock that is needed and will purchase only this amount. Stock lying on shelves is the equivalent of putting money on the shelves – it cannot be used for anything else, even if the need is urgent. If staff use too much product the salon is likely to run out of supplies sooner than the owner anticipated. This means that the client may not be able to get the product that he likes or that is best for his hair. It may also mean that, because too much product is applied, the hair looks either limp or dry. In either case it will look unkempt. Summary: It is important to use products economically: • • •
to avoid waste to prevent excess products being applied to the hair to maintain salon profit levels.
Name one type of product that may cause damage to the hair if too much is applied.
Handout
H14.2.6
Methods of sterilisation and their suitability for use in barber shops There are three ways of sterilising tools and equipment in a barber shop: • • •
heat, either moist or dry chemicals UV light rays.
Moist heat: This is a very effective method of sterilising tools, even cutting tools. It is created by the use of an autoclave. This is a piece of equipment that heats water to a very high temperature – higher than boiling. It creates what is known as super-heated steam and this is hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in barber shops. Autoclaves are used by doctors, dentists, chiropodists, etc. Small, hand held, tools are put into the autoclave, it is sealed and the water inside it is brought to the required temperature. The temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before the tools are removed. You must ensure that you have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use. This is the main disadvantage of this method of sterilisation. Another disadvantage is that you must buy combs that can withstand very high temperatures if they are to go into the autoclave. People sometimes ask if the steam will cause metal tools to rust – this does not happen. The steam evaporates quickly, leaving the tools dry, the same way that dishwashers leave cutlery dry.
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Dry heat: This method of sterilisation is rarely used in barber shops although some salons use pre-packed towels that have been sterilised by this means. This method uses an oven to create high temperatures. Although bacteria are effectively killed by this method, tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an extended time. Chemicals: This method is often used in barber shops and is effective if used correctly. Tools must be washed before placing into the chemical solution otherwise the dirt on them will contaminate the solution. They must be left in the chemical long enough for it to do its job. This time varies, depending on the cleanliness of the item and the strength of the chemical solution, but it can be as long as an hour. The chemical must fully cover the item – many barbers put combs and brushes into a sterilising jar that is only _ full. As with using an autoclave, this means that barbers must have enough tools to allow for the time to sterilise. UV light rays: This method of sterilisation uses Ultra Violet (UV) light rays to kill bacteria. Tools are cleaned then placed into a UV cabinet and the light sterilises those areas that it reaches. This means that the item must be turned so that all surfaces are treated. Busy barbers don’t always do this so the method loses much of its effectiveness. The time needed to kill all bacteria using this method varies according to the cleanliness of the tools.
Handout
H14.3.1a
The effects of humidity on hair Hair is made up of proteins called amino acids. These proteins form themselves into special chains called polypeptide chains. The polypeptide chains are so small they can only be seen under the most powerful electron microscopes. Each polypeptide chain is in the shape of a spring. The proper name for a spring or spiral is an ‘alpha-helix’. A square is called a square because of its shape, a triangle is called a triangle because of its shape, so an alpha-helix is called thus because it is in the shape of a spring. Polypeptide chains twist with one another and when this happens they are held together by different bonds: •
• •
disulphide bonds – very strong bonds that can only be broken by the addition of chemicals such as perm lotion salt bonds - weak bonds that can be broken by heat or moisture hydrogen bonds - weak bonds that can be broken by heat or moisture.
The disulphide bonds and salt bonds hold the polypeptide chains together but hydrogen bonds hold the loops of the chains and prevent them from stretching too much. Hair that is unstretched is in the alpha-keratin state while stretched hair is in the betakeratin state. Each polypeptide chain winds itself around other chains close to it (like the filaments of cotton that make up a strand of thread). These tiny groups with, perhaps, only three filaments in each, wind with others to form larger structures (like rope) then these twist
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with still others to create even bigger, stronger structures (like cables that tie a ship to the dock). Each of these largest twists is what goes to make up a fibre of the cortex. There are hundreds of thousands of fibres in the cortex of each hair. Hair is hygroscopic – it can absorb the moisture in the air (humidity) by capillary action, as blotting paper will become damp if left in a steamy atmosphere. The water is passed from cell to cell of the hair and is carried throughout the whole structure. Humidity – the speed at which moisture will be absorbed into the hair. If the hair is porous it will absorb moisture quickly because the cuticle will be open (possibly due to damage). If the hair has low porosity (resistant), it means that the cuticle is lying firm against the hair and the moisture can’t get inside easily, it takes much longer to reach the cortex. When the moisture in the air is absorbed by the hair it becomes wet and: • • •
the cuticle opens slightly and the hair swells slightly the hair can stretch further because the hydrogen and salt bonds break if the hair is not dried under tension into a stretched position, the hydrogen and salt bonds will revert to their normal, unstretched pattern.
What bonds within the hair structure can be broken by water?
Handout
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H14.3.1b
Handout
H14.3.2
The physical effects of blow drying on the hair structure (1 of 2) Hair is made up of polypeptide chains that twist together to form hair as we know it. These chains are held together by strong disulphide bonds, weak salt bonds that help to hold the chains together and weak hydrogen bonds that prevent the loops of the polypeptide chain spirals from being stretched too far.
Summary: • •
• •
When hair is in its normal state it is not stretched. This state is known as the alpha-keratin state. When hair is stretched – as during blow drying, it becomes beta-keratin. If hair is wet and/or heated it is easier to stretch it and it will stretch further than when it is dry. This is because the hydrogen bonds and some salt bonds are broken by the moisture or the heat so the ‘springs’ (the shape of the polypeptide chains) can be lengthened. When hair is blow dried or blow waved it is stretched slightly by the fingers or by the brush or comb. Because it is dried into this stretched position the broken hydrogen and salt bonds reform in a different pattern and will stay there until the hair becomes wet or hot again. This is what gives a blow dry or blow wave lasting power.
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•
when hair is in its natural, unstretched state, it is Alpha keratin when hair is wet and stretched slightly while blow drying it becomes Beta keratin if the hair is dried into this stretched shape it remains Beta keratin when it becomes wet again when it reverts to its normal, unstretched shape and goes back to being Alpha keratin when the hair is dried into a stretched shape it keeps this shape because the hydrogen and the salt bonds reform into a different pattern
When hair becomes wet again: • • • • • • •
by absorbing atmospheric moisture by shampooing being in a steamy bathroom excessive scalp perspiration being caught in the rain being outside on a foggy day being in a humid climate
The hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern and the blow dry will be lost.
Handout
H14.3.2
The physical effects of blow drying on the hair structure (2 of 2) How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Barbers must be aware of the dangers involved in the use of heated styling tools and equipment. If care is not taken there is a danger of: • • • •
damaging the cuticle causing the hair to break burning the scalp discolouring the hair.
If a hand dryer or other heated equipment is held at one area of the scalp or hair for too long or is held too close to the hair or scalp it is likely to burn. The least that will happen is that damage to the cuticle will occur but the hair may break off completely.
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Hair that is naturally white or that has been chemically treated will discolour if too much heat is applied to it. White hair or bleached hair will become yellow, African Caribbean hair will become reddish and chemically treated hair may fade in colour. How can you prevent too much heat from being applied to the hair or scalp?
Handout
Why hair should be allowed to cool before finishing a dressing When hair has been wet and heated during a blow dry service the hydrogen bonds and some of the salt bonds will have been broken. To ensure that the blow dry will last, the hair must be dried under tension so that the bonds can reform in a new pattern. Because heat, as well as water, causes the hydrogen and salt bonds to break, the hair should be held under tension until it cools. By doing this it allows the bonds to set into their new shape. Remember that the hair must be stretched to let the bonds reform in a new shape. If you take the tension off while the hair is still warm some of the bonds will reform in their usual, unstretched, alpha-keratin state. It is not always necessary to hold the hair for a time while it cools, simply switch the dryer to ‘cool’, this will complete the process quickly and without wasting time. If heated tools such as tongs are being used avoid disturbing the hair until it cools, leave it in the styled shape and allow it to cool naturally. If you brush or comb the hair or even position it with your fingers before it has the chance to cool the bonds will reform in their natural shape.
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H14.3.3
There are two main reasons why hair should be allowed to cool before finishing the dressing: • •
to achieve a longer lasting effect to allow the hydrogen bonds to harden into their new position.
Why hair should be kept damp before drying with a hair dryer In order to achieve a style that is different to the client’s natural look you must cause the hair to take a new shape. You must change the position of the bonds in the hair from alphakeratin to beta-keratin. This is done by wetting, heating and stretching the hair slightly while drying it into its new shape. If you allow the hair to dry without having it under tension (stretching it) the hydrogen and salt bonds will simply take their normal, unstretched, alpha-keratin position as the hair dries. If the hair is dry, even if you heat the hair, you would have to heat it to quite a high degree before you could cause the bonds to move into a new, betakeratin pattern. When hair is wet: • • •
it stretches more than when it is dry you can achieve a smooth effect the hydrogen and salt bonds can be reformed into a new shape to produce a style.
Handout
H14.4.1
The range of styling and finishing products, tools and equipment available for drying men’s hair Each barber shop will have its own preferences relating to the range of products it carries and the tools and equipment to be used on its clients.
Styling and finishing tools and equipment
As a rough guide it is expected that salons will have sufficient materials to allow barbers to deal with different hair and scalp types and conditions.
•
These should include:
• •
For example, products for: • • • •
greasy hair and/or scalp dry hair and/or scalp normal hair and/or scalp dandruff affected scalp.
There will also be products designed to create different styling effects. The barber shop is likely to provide the larger, more expensive equipment such as infrared dryers and most salons are equipped with hand held hair dryers. It is, however, expected that barbers provide their own styling tools, eg, combs, brushes.
Styling and finishing products Styling products should consist of: • • •
mousse blow dry lotions styling gel.
The finishing products should include: • • • •
wax dressing creams finishing gel sprays.
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• •
hand held hair dryers with attachments (nozzles, diffusers) heated styling tools (tongs, hot brushes, straighteners) a range of brushes designed to achieve different effects a range of combs an infrared dryer (for natural dried effects)
What may happen if you use metal combs when blow waving?
Handout
H14.4.2
When and why the types of styling and finishing products should be used Styling products are applied before the blow dry These are used to protect the hair and to help the barber to achieve the required look. They reduce the speed at which hair will absorb moisture from the atmosphere thus extending the life of the blow dry. •
•
•
blow dry lotion – forms a covering on the hair that protects it from the heat of the dryer and reduces the absorption of atmospheric moisture into the hair. Also helps the barber to create the shape required by the client mousse – also covers and protects the hair and minimises the absorption of atmospheric moisture, helps to retain natural moisture in the hair and gives volume to the style styling gel – when applied before the blow dry it is usually in spray form. It coats the hair to protect it from heat and atmospheric moisture, it helps to mould the hair to shape and supports the style.
Finishing products are applied to the hair after the styling is complete These products support the finished look and coat the hair to reduce the speed at which atmospheric moisture can enter the hair. Some also give shine to the hair while others are used to separate and texturise according to the style requirements.
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The manufacturers’ instructions relating to the use of specific styling and finishing products in your salon In order to ensure that you get the best results from using the styling and finishing products in your salon you must read and follow the manufacturers’ instructions for each product. Do not assume that the instructions will always be the same because manufacturers work continuously to develop and improve their products. You must make yourself familiar with the instructions for use of each product so that you will be able to provide the best service to your clients and avoid the risk of causing damage to their hair.
Handout
H14.4.3
Why, when and how to use the different types of: •
The styling brushes and combs which are used when blow drying and blow waving are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. As style preferences change manufacturers produce brushes and combs to suit the new effects. The most common brushes and combs in use at the present time are: •
•
•
hair and scalp so care must be taken to avoid this. Small sections of hair are held securely in the comb and waved using the hand dryer
Styling brushes and combs when blow drying and blow waving attachments when blow drying and blow waving.
half-round bristle brushes – they are used when blow waving because they hold the hair firmly. They support the hair in the correct position while the hot air from the dryer dries the hair into that position flat brushes with plastic prongs – these are used to create smooth effects by stroking them through the hair while directing the hot air from the hair dryer onto them. They can also be used to make loose waves in hair by using them in the same way as half-round bristle brushes but they don’t hold the hair so firmly so don’t achieve the firmness required in a blow wave vent brushes are used when a full, textured effect is required. The hair is held loosely in the brush and is dried very quickly because of the vents in the brush.
Combs are used for different reasons in blow drying but the time when combs may be used in preference to brushes is when blow waving. • metal combs are sometimes used for this purpose but they can burn the
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•
dressing or cutting combs may be used for sectioning while blow drying although most men wear short styles that don’t need to be sectioned off for blow drying
•
wide toothed combs are used to disentangle hair before starting the blow dry.
Attachments used with hand held hair dryers: •
nozzles are used to direct and concentrate the airflow onto a small area of the hair. They are used when you want to ensure that a specific area of the hair is dried into a certain shape. For example, when blow waving. If used while a brush is pushing the hair in a definite direction to create a wave in the hair they dry the hair into this position
•
diffusers are used to spread the airflow, so reducing the force of the flow. This helps you to scrunch dry the hair into a loose, less structured look. The hair is held in the fingers of one hand while the air is played over the hair. The result is often quite full and can be used when a man wants his hair to look wild and unkempt.
Discuss with your trainer - which tool is most likely to cause damage to the hair or scalp?
Handout
H14.5.1
Current techniques for styling and finishing men’s hair As fashions in men’s hairdressing change the techniques used to achieve the looks also change. However, there are certain techniques that have remained popular throughout many years and are likely to continue to be used in styling men’s hair. The reason for the continued popularity of these techniques is that they are suitable for achieving various styles or that they can easily be adapted to suit new styles and finishes. Before choosing a technique a good barber will take various factors into account: • • • • • •
the required result the haircut the texture and elasticity of the hair the length and density of the hair any growth patterns the head and face shape.
Blow drying This technique uses a hand held hair dryer and a brush. The brush positions and holds the hair while the hot air from the dryer is directed over it to dry it into that position. This technique can be used to achieve many styles and often gives the hairstyle a well defined look and a structured finish. The finish can be broken up to look more casual by using a brush or the hands to loosen the structure of the style.
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Finger drying This is a similar technique to blow drying except that the fingers hold and mould the hair into shape for drying. The result that this technique produces is much less formal that that achieved by blow drying. The style is often undefined and has a loose, casual finish.
Blow waving In its truest form, this technique produces a very formal, structured, waved style. The finish is precise and well defined. However, as with most good techniques, it has been developed and adapted to suit many purposes. It is often used to control unruly hair or to put lift and movement into hair that lies very straight and flat to the scalp. A competent barber will put a loose wave into the hair that can support the style but that can be broken up so that no wave is visible.
Handout
H14.5.2
How the critical factors in the range affect the styling process and the finished look Before drying a client’s hair you must take many factors into account as these may have an effect on the technique to use or on the style that can be achieved. The factors to consider are: • the hair cut - this will affect the choice of style that can be achieved because the cut shape may be wrong for the requested finished look • hair growth patterns – this will affect the choice of style because the hair may grow in a particular pattern that prevents you from drying it in certain shapes, eg, there may be a widow’s peak that will not allow you to dry the hair in a fringe • hair elasticity – the hair may be too limp to be able to achieve a certain style, the elasticity may also affect the technique you choose. For example, it may be too springy to achieve a good result when finger drying • head and face shape – your choice of style may be limited because you must give the client a look that will complement his head and face shape • hair texture – this can influence the technique to use and the choice of style because the hair may be too fine or too coarse to be able to achieve the required look • hair length – the hair may be too long or too short for a specific style or for you to be able to use a specific technique, eg, blow waving can only be done on hair at least 6cms (2_ inches) long
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hair density – this, too, can influence both the technique to use and the style to be achieved because the hair may be too sparse or too abundant for a look or for a technique. For example, fine hair may look flat and limp when finger dried.
Why the direction of the air flow when drying is important to achieve the desired look You must take care when using a hair dryer that the flow of air is directed from the roots to the points of the hair. It is important to direct the air flow correctly: • • • • • •
to ensure the hair is directed according to the style requirements to make sure that the cuticle remains flat to smooth the cuticle and increase the hair’s sheen to achieve lift where required to keep the hair close to the head where required to prevent frizz
Avoid directing the air flow towards the roots as this will cause damage to the cuticle.
Handout
H14.5.3
Methods of handling and controlling hair sections during the styling process (1 of 2) It may be necessary to section the hair for drying and shaping into style. This is more likely to happen if the hair is long; short hair does not normally need to be sectioned.
You must make sure that each section is dry before progressing onto the next.
However, you must always dry the hair in sections to ensure you work in a methodical way which enables you to control the hair. You will then be able to mould it into the shape that is required.
Finger drying
Continue until all of the hair has been dried.
Blow drying
For finger drying the method is the same as for blow drying. You may decide to use a brush to blend the short areas of the hair into the longer, finger dried hair.
When blow drying, start at a place that is appropriate for the hairstyle. This could be:
Some barbers attach a diffuser to the hair dryer when finger drying. This is dependent on the style to be achieved.
• • •
The diffuser causes the air from the dryer to be spread across a wide area so the force of the flow is reduced. This can help you to create more movement in the hair because it takes longer to dry and gives you more time to mould the hair into the shape that you want.
At the nape At the crown At a parting
Take a small section of hair into the brush or comb and mould the hair into the desired shape by moving the hot air from the dryer over the hair to dry it into the desired shape. You may partially dry the section then brush or comb it through to see the effect that has been created. If the desired effect is not being achieved you have the opportunity to change it slightly before the hair is fully dry. Work through the top of the head, blending each section with the next as you progress. Make sure that you blend each section of hair with those around it.
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Handout
H14.5.3
Methods of handling and controlling hair sections during the styling process (2 of 2) Blow waving When blow waving, take a small section of hair into the comb and push the hair forward to mould it into a wave shape. Using a nozzle on the hair dryer, apply the air to the trough of the wave, making sure to direct the hot air in the direction of the wave. Now move a little bit further back on the head and pick up another small section of hair, combine this with the ends of the hair in the first section and mould the wave in the opposite direction to the first wave movement. Dry this into shape. Proceed through the head, working the ends of the preceding section in with the next and blending the sections to the side of each section until the blow wave has been completed.
Take care if using a metal comb as it can become very hot – there is danger of burning the hair and/or scalp.
Remember that the air flow is concentrated in a small area when a nozzle is attached to the hair dryer, this means that the heat is also concentrated in a small area. Do not allow the hot air to be held in one place for too long or you will burn the hair or scalp or damage the cuticle of the hair. © Copyright 2003 Consumer Services Industry Authority - all rights reserved.
Notes
Handout
H14.5.4
Aftercare advice A good barber will always advise the client on ways of maintaining his hairstyle and the condition of his hair. Many men want to spend as little time on their hair as possible and, by giving good advice, you will help the client to reduce the necessary maintenance time.
Maintaining the style: The barber should: • • • • •
demonstrate to the client the method of blow drying the hair suggest the use of specific tools and equipment recommend suitable styling and finishing products inform clients of the salon’s range of retail tools and equipment inform clients of the salon’s retail range of styling and finishing products.
Maintaining hair condition The barber should : • •
• •
•
explain to the client the dangers of applying too much heat emphasise to the client the consequences of directing the airflow from the hair dryer towards the roots of the hair recommend suitable products for styling and finishing the hair recommend products that will protect the hair from the effects of heat and explain their properties to the client recommend conditioning products that are suitable for the client’s hair
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By doing this the barber will ensure that he has provided a good and thorough service to the client and will help you to build a good relationship with your clients. Discuss with your trainer and colleagues any other advice that you think the barber should give or recommendations that she/he should make. Give reasons for your suggestions.
