WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 When it comes to hair on the catwalks for Autumn/ Winter 2015, designers celebrate individuality in its most natural, raw-like state. All trends - Graphic Elements, Strange Creatures, Done Undone, SuperDeluxe, Normcore – compliment fashion’s strong, pioneering spirit. Natural is the new powerful.

All trends hail the individual with unusual styles, unusual ways of creating those styles (i.e. the hands rather than state-of-the art ‘polishing’ tools), and a new laissezfaire approach that glorifies natural beauty. ‘Anti-styling styling’ exudes personality and celebrates a young, confident energy. The look is polished but carefree, full of power and full of life, with plenty of nuances; it is not forced. On the colour front is Normcore, where imperfection is the new perfection and natural lustre and shine replace fake, overworked shades. Where, in past seasons, models wore the same uniform hair look within one show, now each is styled in a different way within one same show. It is a celebration of powerful individuality and natural confidence.

WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

CONTRIBUTORS

EUGENE SOLOMAN

JOSH WOOD

LADY KINVARA BALFOUR

Wella Professionals Global Creative Director Care and Styling

Wella Professionals Global Creative Director Color

Creative Director, Industry Thoughtleader and Guest Trend Consultant for the Wella Professionals AW15 Fashion Week Trends Round Up

@Eugenesouleiman

@JoshWoodColour

@Kinvara_Balfour

@eugeneSouleiman

@Joshwoodcolour

@KinvaraBalfour

In Graphic Elements, there is a sense of high drama and theatre combined with one of playfulness. It’s ultimately very tribal yet individualistic at the same time. Hair is combed, brushed and shaped by hand into styles with graphic edges both hard and soft. The deconstructed look is feminine with a masculine edge. At Maison Margiela, looks are personalized, with models sporting individual styles which incorporate graphic shapes and textures. Inspired by the theme of ‘mavericks and misfits’, the show features choppy, angular cuts. On some models, hair is coloured (green, pink, orange); on others, it is left natural and then crimped in random sections, adding shape, texture and volume. Issey Miyake and Antonio Marras also favour graphic crimping. At Jeremy Scott, hair is cut into a choppy, angular bob, the top of which is painted with bold shades of pink, green, orange and blue paint applied with graphic, block strokes. The story here is about unconventional looks that have been engineered through creative freedom; Graphic Elements celebrates the playing with texture and color and the finding of new, unconventional ways to express oneself.

WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

GRAPHIC ELEMENTS

AS SEEN AT: * Antonio Marras (WELLA sponsored) * Jeremy Scott (WELLA sponsored) * Issey Miyake (WELLA sponsored) * Maison Margiela * Yohji Yamamoto * Tsumori Chisato

PRODUCTS USED: EIMI Dry Me EIMI Dynamic Fix EIMI Perfect Setting EIMI Ocean Spritz EIMI Stay Styled

“This is a really illustrative way of doing hair,” says Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director, Care and Styling. “It incorporates plenty of texture and product - so much so, that hair becomes akin to sculpture.” When it comes to crimping, Eugene says “the crimping element of Graphic Elements is partial and done in sections rather than on a full head of hair, which makes it feel fresher and more modern.” Eugene likens his hard-edged fringes and choppy bobs to ‘graceful carp tails in the water’. “Graphic Elements is all about something being ‘under construction’ as opposed to ‘deconstruction’; it’s a work in progress, it’s something that’s still in the process of being built – just like nature.”

Taking inspiration from the raw and weathered elements of nature, Strange Creatures pervade the catwalk for Autumn Winter 2015; some appear to have come from an other-worldly abyss, others have stepped out of the Amazonian jungle after an energetic trek some hot and perspiring, others caught in the mist or rain. WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

STRANGE CREATURES

With Strange Creatures, we see a new celebration of texture and a notable absence of combs, brushes and other ‘perfecting’ tools. This look is both raw and weathered and incorporates both the hard and the soft. It is not ornate or precise. Here, the palms of the hand create kinks, curls and webs that combine a sense of eerie darkness with a soft, feminine haze. Product is worked and moulded into the hair with the hands and fingers to creating wet-look strands and/or ‘masks’ around the temples, forehead and ears. At DKNY, hair is smoothed over itself in a dry but water-like ‘net’ or ‘cobweb’, which clings to the scalp and falls loosely down to the shoulder; the look is similar at MSGM. At Esteban Cortezar, hair clings to the front of the face as if humid/wet and then falls loose with added texture. “Working visually and treating each girl differently, each style is a reaction to a specific hair texture, length and face shape to create a look that is raw, savage and powerful”, says Eugene. “For me, this trend is about elemental figures that inhabit the rain forest or the woods; savage creatures who are quite primal and mystical,” he says. “It’s like there was a beautiful, glamorous hairstyle and then nature came in and took its toll and created this other, more decayed look. You can’t control nature. The hair has a slightly dirty feeling to it, it’s sensual, primal, random – but still very sexy.’”

AS SEEN AT: * DKNY (WELLA sponsored) * MSGM (WELLA sponsored) * Esteban Cortezar (WELLA sponsored) * Antonio Marras (WELLA sponsored) * August Getty * Stella McCartney * Sportmax

PRODUCTS USED: EIMI Sugar Lift EIMI Dry Me EIMI Stay Essential EIMI Ocean Spritz EIMI Dynamic Fix EIMI Shape Control EIMI Perfect Setting

WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

DONE UNDONE

In Done Undone, hair is effortlessly healthy and shiny but worn in its most natural ‘undone’ state. It is ‘lived-in’ and comfortable, rather than forced and overworked.

This is the anti-salon blow-dry, with natural waves and natural kinks kept in favour of overdone dos; those individualistic features that have previously been removed are now key. Whether it is worn up – in loose, carefree ponytails, chignons or up-dos – or down, Done Undone hair is soft, lightweight and full of natural body. “For me, it’s about blending textures to create subtle nuances” says Eugene. Often, it is a little windswept and ‘imperfect’, as seen at Chloe and Nina Ricci. At Pucci, meanwhile, Eugene describes the look as if on “a rock star’s girlfriend in the VIP tent at Glastonbury, the kind of woman who has featured minimally on the catwalks before but who now takes centre stage; she has really beautiful hair, it’s a little bit of a mess but not really, it’s subtle, it’s two days old and two days away from needing a wash.” To create Done Undone, Eugene explains “Take away the opulence of a polished blow dry by stretching the hair and tonging it, so that the movement is in there but the opulence and roundness is out. Let it drop or tie it in a loose bun or ponytail.”

“FOR ME, IT’S ABOUT BLENDING TEXTURES TO CREATE SUBTLE NUANCES”

AS SEEN AT: * Nina Ricci * Chloe * Tory Burch * Pucci * Tod’s * Wunderkind

WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

SUPER DELUXE

When it comes to Super Deluxe, hair is glossy and lustrous in its natural state, exuding natural health and shine. It is well-conditioned and thick and shouts ‘touch-me’. Usually worn down, it is styled but not over-styled; hair is blow-dried straight and then fussed up with the hands to create a wispy, textured, laissez-faire appearance. At Blumarine, hair is sleek, polished and straight with very soft wave adding body and volume at the ends. Fly-away textures are added by smoothing product against the grain of the hair shaft using the palm of the hand. “This look is all about finish and is a melting and blending of textures,” says Eugene. “It’s more reliant on product than one would assume - used sparingly, the key aim is to get some body in the hair, but natural body, and to then get a surface of shine, but natural shine. Then it is brushed and brushed and brushed to soften it into a healthy, lustrous mane.”

“THIS LOOK IS ALL ABOUT FINISH AND IS A MELTING AND BLENDING OF TEXTURES”

AS SEEN AT: * Blumarine (WELLA sponsored) * Tommy Hilfiger * Chloe * Donna Karan

PRODUCTS USED: EIMI Perfect Me EIMI Perfect Setting EIMI Body Crafter

On the colour front for Autumn Winter 2015, we see a new dominance of natural, organic colour. Where colour was strong in the last few years and seasons, it has become faded and eroded so it looks muted and subdued. It is more naturalistic, more organic, and looks as if is has been created by the elements. It takes inspiration from a natural palette, with flashes of colour here and there. It is chic and luxurious in a raw way.

WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

NORMCORE

“Hair colour on the catwalk has become such a personal statement for a designer. It serves to personality more than ever before,” says Josh Wood, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director, Color. “Gloss has become eggshell; over-shiny hair has become a bit cheap. This season, natural lustres win over a fake, overdone shades. By leaving some imperfection in the hair, there’s a lot more nuance to it. It’s subtle. And it serves to celebrate the individual in her natural state.”

“Hair colour on the catwalk has become such a personal statement for a designer...” AS SEEN AT: * Blumarine (WELLA sponsored) * MSGM (WELLA sponsored) * Antonio Marras (WELLA sponsored) * Chloe * Donna Karan * DKNY * Tory Burch * Sportmax * Tod’s * Ann Demeulemeester * Nina Ricci

PRODUCTS USED: EIMI Perfect Me EIMI Perfect Setting EIMI Body Crafter EIMI Dry Me EIMI Ocean Spritz EIMI Dynamic Fix

WELLA INTERNATIONAL CATWALK TREND REPORT FOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

ACCESSORIES

Autumn/Winter 2015 also sees the return of the hair accessory. At Prada, ornate hair clips keep SuperDeluxe side-swept ponytails in place at the side of the head. At Celine, Done Undone hair is sometimes pulled into a ponytail with a simple statement black band. At Chanel, girls sport black hairbands with their Done Undone knots and messy buns, while others wear logo’d hair pins and sticks. At Fendi, stretch leather hairbands in tan, white, brown and burgundy complement casual knots and undone buns. At Rochas, large, fine, black hair slides keep SuperDeluxe hair in place neatly at the back of the head.

AS SEEN AT CHANEL

AS SEEN AT FENDI

AS SEEN AT PRADA

AS SEEN AT PRADA

AS SEEN AT FENDI