Western Australia, December 2016. Raoul Beunen & Marije Louwsma

Western Australia (W.A.) is home to a number of bird species that cannot be found elsewhere in Australia. Depending on the taxonomy one follows, there are 16 full species and 28 subspecies, some of which might be future splits (see Checklist of endemic bird species & subspecies of Western Australia). Most of these endemics are fairly easily encountered during a visit to the region. Others require a visit to a particular place and might be a bit more difficult to find. In December 2016 we spend 26 days in W.A. We hired a car and travelled north along the coast, via Kalbarri and Monkey Mia, all the way to Cape Range. From there we travelled inland to Karijini National Park and then south via Cue and York to Esperance. Next we drove west along the coast back to Perth (see map 1). In the southwest we visited well known places such as the Stirling Range, Two People’s Bay, and Cape Leeuwin. If one is only interested in seeing the endemics of W.A., only this southwestern part has to be visited. Using the where-to-watch birds books and the information on internet one should be able to design a short trip which more or less guarantees finding all endemics.

Map 1. Overview of visited places

The best period for visiting W.A. is probably October to November. In December temperatures can get up very quickly during the day and most flowers have finished blooming. This reduces chances of finding birds as many of them are mostly active during the early hours of the day and because they disperse over a large area in search for food. We did for example not encounter species like Pied and Black Honeyeater that should be easier to find when trees are in bloom. Nevertheless we managed to find the majority of the species that can regularly occur in Western Australia, including all endemic species. In total we saw 240 different species. An overview of species and sightings, including pictures of many species, can be found on observado. Missed species: We missed a number of species, including Stubble Quail, Freckled Duck, Black-tailed Nativehen, Painted Buttonquail, Budgerigar, Australian Owlet-nightjar, Red-backed Kingfisher, Whitebrowed Treecreeper, Striated Grasswren, Grey Honeyeater, Black Honeyeater, Pied Honeyeater, White-fronted Honeyeater, Red-browed Pardalote, Slender-billed Thornbill, Ground Cuckooshrike, and Painted Firetail. Some of these are supposed to be fairly common, while others are more local and rare. We did not visit Cape Arid N.P., where Western Ground Parrot can be searched for. Practicalities Travelling around in W.A. is easy, at least if one has a car. Most species are easily found and books and websites provide sufficient information about where to look for the rare and local ones. Books: we used the Field Guide to the Birds of Australia by Pizzey and Knight. Other guidebooks are available, but this one worked fine. We also used Finding Australian Birds by Dolby and Clarke and The complete guide to finding the birds of Australia by Thomas et al. Both books were surprisingly complementary, although the most well-known places are described in both books. It is easy to design an itinerary drawing on the information from these books, some trip report, and sightings collected on websites like observado and ebird. Car hire and driving: various major car rental companies can be found on the airport. Most roads are surfaced and the few gravel roads that one need to drive to get to particular places are in general well maintained. It is wise to check were gas stations can be found if one travels to more remote parts as the distance between two places can be lengthy. Most roads are straight and empty which makes travel times very predictable, which is easy when making the itinerary for the trip. Accommodation: Most places offer a range of accommodation, while camping is the most obvious option in the more remote parks. Camping is cheap compared to hiring cabins or staying in hotels. We camped almost all nights and paid between 10 to 20 Australian dollar per person per night. All caravan parks and camp sites had well maintained facilities, including camper’s kitchens where one can grill and use available gas stoves. Costs: tickets from Amsterdam to Perth did cost € 750 pp and we spend another € 1500 pp on car hire, fuel, accommodation, food and entrance fees. It is possible to buy a holiday pass that gives entrance to all national parks during a period of a month. This pass costed $44 per car.

Sites visited Perth: The botanical gardens and Herdman’s lake are well-known places to look for birds. At the lake one can find a range of duck species, rails, and reed warblers. Dryandra: a very nice forest where many nice species can be found. It is also a place where one can find rare mammal species, some of which can only be seen during a night walk in Barna Mia. This place is fenced to keep predators like feral cats and foxes out. We spend one afternoon and one morning in the park. Unfortunately is was very quiet; even in the morning very few birds were singing or calling. Highlight was a Crested Shrike-tit. Along the drive along the west coast we visited the Pinnacles. White-backed swallow can easily be found here.

Kalbarri: During our visit the main road into the park (towards the arch / window) was closed due to maintenance. We could visit Hawk’s Head Lookout and many birds were found at the Galena Bridge Camp area, east of Kalbarri. Monkey Mia: This place is most famous for the Indian Bottle-nosed Dolphins that are fed each morning. Many people travel a long distance to see this event. Among bird watchers it is known as the place where one can see the Western Grasswren. This species is easily found on the parking lot as well as the surrounding areas. During our visit they were mainly active in the morning, like many other species. Cape Range: Cape Range is a national park that stretches over 50 km. along the coast. Camping is possible at a number of places. In high season advanced booking is recommended, but this is not necessary in December when fewer people visit the place. Cape Range is one of the places where Black-footed Rock Wallabies can be found. One option is to take a boat trip into Yardie Creek (daily trips at 11.00 h.). saw the wallabies from the view point over the creek as well as during a morning

wall into Mandu Mandu Gorge. A few mangrove areas can be found in this part of W.A. These are the places to look for mangrove species, like Dusky Gerygone, White-breasted Whistler, Mangrove Golden Whistler, and Mangrove Robin. Karijini National Park. This remote park is characterized by beautiful gorges. Birdwise is was quiet, even in the morning. Main target include Spinifex Pigeon and Spinifex Bird. We did not manage to find Grey Honeyeater, Striated Grasswren or Red-eared Pardelote, all which should be possible here. A stop in Tom Price was productive as various species were easily found in the park just west of town.

Cue, Nallan Station, Mount Magnet. This is a famous birding spot were many inland and mulga specialties can be found. Camping is possible at Nallan Station. In the vicinity are a couple of wells that attract birds and the tracks a few kilometers east of the station lead you into nice mulga forest. Species like Mulga and Bourke’s parrot where common around here, as was Western Quail Trush. White-browed Treecreeper is possible here as well, but we failed to find one. Another well know site is the more open land just west of Cue. This place proved to be productive with Banded Whiteface, Inland Dotterel, Crimson and Orange Chat.

Mulga Parrot

Banded Whiteface

Redthroat

Esperance: very little birds on the various lakes in the surroundings of Esperance. Cape Barren Goose is easily found on the golf course. The Hooded Plover was not present on lake. Most birds were found on Mullet Lake accessed from the road towards Cape Le Grand NP, which is a very scenic coastal park. The scenic drive west from Esperance along the coast and Pink Lake is recommended for its scenery, especially early morning. Fitzgerald: This is a good place to find a number of specialties like Western Whipbird, Purple-gaped Honeyeater, and Shy Heathwren. We failed to find Malleefowl along the road that leads from highway one into the western parts of the park and which is supposed to be a good place to look for

this species. Fortunately we saw one crossing Highway 1 just before we arrived to the western part of Fitzgerald N.P (Quiss Rd to Point Ann). Stirling Range. This place is very nice because one can make several (longer) hikes through nice forests and with nice viewpoints. Various species can be found in this area, many of which are present at the ground of the Stirling Range Retreat. The drinking pools here attract many birds. From here we visited Porongurup NP, just south of Stirling Range, as well. We particularly liked the walk to Nancy’s Peak in Porongurup. Cheynes Beach: This is the place where both Noisy Scrubbird and Western Bristlebird can be found. Both species which were easily heard early morning along the track that leads southeast from the caravan park. Actually seeing them might take some time. We had one Scrubbird crossing the track and after some while found a Bristlebird that was singing in top of the bush just near the track. South-western forests: The place to find Baudian’s Black Cockatoo which is fairly common around here. Also most other species, including various endemics, are regularly encountered. Cape-Leeuwin: This is the place to see whales, if you are in the right season. Unfortunately not in December. The coast is impressive and offers opportunities to see seabirds. We had great views of Rock Parrot, a species that till that time eluded us, at Hamelin Bay. Hamelin Bay is also the place where three different species of stingray come to eat fish out of the hand of the tourist that feed them. Birds

Banded Lapwing 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.

Western Corella

Emu - Dromaius novaehollandiae Malleefowl - Leipoa ocellata Brown Quail - Coturnix ypsilophora Cape Barren Goose - Cereopsis novaehollandiae Black Swan - Cygnus atratus Australian Shelduck - Tadorna tadornoides Pink-eared Duck - Malacorhynchus membranaceus Maned Duck - Chenonetta jubata Pacific Black Duck - Anas superciliosa Australasian Shoveler - Anas rhynchotis Grey Teal - Anas gracilis Chestnut Teal - Anas castanea Hardhead - Aythya australis Blue-billed Duck - Oxyura australis Musk Duck - Biziura lobata Little Penguin - Eudyptula minor Indian Yellow-nosed Albatross - Thalassarche carteri

Splendid Fairywren Widely distributed and regularly encountered Local and not easily found. We saw one crossing highway 1 Two seen in a park in Exmouth Several seen around Esperance, including some on the golf course

Several seen on lakes in Perth, Busselton and Mandurah

Only seen in the south Seen in Perth A few on Penguin Island. Look under the boardwalk Seen at The Gap, Albany and Canal Rocks on Cape Leeuwin

18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. 65. 66. 67. 68. 69. 70. 71. 72. 73. 74. 75. 76. 77. 78. 79. 80.

Wedge-tailed Shearwater - Ardenna pacifica Flesh-footed Shearwater - Ardenna carneipes Australasian Little Grebe - Tachybaptus novaehollandiae Hoary-headed Grebe - Poliocephalus poliocephalus Great Crested Grebe - Podiceps cristatus Australian White Ibis - Threskiornis moluccus Straw-necked Ibis - Threskiornis spinicollis Yellow-billed Spoonbill - Platalea flavipes Nankeen Night Heron - Nycticorax caledonicus Striated Heron - Butorides striata Great Egret - Ardea alba White-faced Heron - Egretta novaehollandiae Little Egret - Egretta garzetta Pacific Reef Heron - Egretta sacra Australian Pelican - Pelecanus conspicillatus Australasian Gannet - Morus serrator Little Pied Cormorant - Microcarbo melanoleucos Black-faced Cormorant - Phalacrocorax fuscescens Little Black Cormorant - Phalacrocorax sulcirostris Australian Pied Cormorant - Phalacrocorax varius Great Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo Australasian Darter - Anhinga novaehollandiae Eastern Osprey - Pandion cristatus Black-breasted Buzzard - Hamirostra melanosternon Black-shouldered Kite - Elanus axillaris Black Kite - Milvus migrans Whistling Kite - Haliastur sphenurus Brahminy Kite - Haliastur indus White-bellied Sea Eagle - Haliaeetus leucogaster Swamp Harrier - Circus approximans Spotted Harrier - Circus assimilis Brown Goshawk - Accipiter fasciatus Collared Sparrowhawk - Accipiter cirrocephalus Wedge-tailed Eagle - Aquila audax Little Eagle - Hieraaetus morphnoides Nankeen Kestrel - Falco cenchroides Australian Hobby - Falco longipennis Brown Falcon - Falco berigora Peregrine Falcon - Falco peregrinus Australian Bustard - Ardeotis australis Buff-banded Rail - Gallirallus philippensis Spotless Crake - Porzana tabuensis Dusky Moorhen - Gallinula tenebrosa Eurasian Coot - Fulica atra Australasian Swamphen - Porphyrio melanotus Pied Oystercatcher - Haematopus longirostris Sooty Oystercatcher - Haematopus fuliginosus White-headed Stilt - Himantopus leucocephalus Banded Stilt - Cladorhynchus leucocephalus Banded Lapwing - Vanellus tricolor Grey Plover - Pluvialis squatarola Red-capped Plover - Charadrius ruficapillus Greater Sand Plover - Charadrius leschenaultii Black-fronted Dotterel - Elseyornis melanops Inland Dotterel - Peltohyas australis Hooded Dotterel - Thinornis cucullatus Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa lapponica Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus Far Eastern Curlew - Numenius madagascariensis Marsh Sandpiper - Tringa stagnatilis Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola Grey-tailed Tattler - Tringa brevipes

Seen from Cape Range Seen from the Gap, Albany

Small numbers where found on route in the South

Only a few seen, e.g. at Kalabarri and the Gap, Albany. Fairly common in and around Esperance

Several places along the coast One photographed en route to Karijini Few seen

Regularly encountered in swampy areas Few seen Several seen, mostly in northern part of the trip Several seen, mostly in northern part of the trip

One at a night drive in Cape Range and one en route to Karijini Penguin Island and Herdsman lake, Perth. Marshy area near Busselton Busselton and Perth

Only seen on a lake just east of Esperance Seen at several places on the northern part of the trip

Near Cue Finally found just south of Mandurah, not on other places in South

81. Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos 82. Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres 83. Great Knot - Calidris tenuirostris 84. Sanderling - Calidris alba 85. Red-necked Stint - Calidris ruficollis 86. Long-toed Stint - Calidris subminuta 87. Sharp-tailed Sandpiper - Calidris acuminata 88. Brown Noddy - Anous stolidus 89. Pacific Gull - Larus pacificus 90. Gull-billed Tern - Gelochelidon nilotica 91. Caspian Tern - Hydroprogne caspia 92. Common Tern - Sterna hirundo 93. Bridled Tern - Onychoprion anaethetus 94. White-winged Tern - Chlidonias leucopterus 95. Silver Gull - Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae 96. Sooty Tern - Onychoprion fuscatus 97. Fairy Tern - Sternula nereis 98. Lesser Crested Tern - Thalasseus bengalensis 99. Greater Crested Tern - Thalasseus bergii 100. Parasitic Jaeger - Stercorarius parasiticus 101. Common Bronzewing - Phaps chalcoptera 102. Brush Bronzewing - Phaps elegans 103. Crested Pigeon - Ocyphaps lophotes 104. Spinifex Pigeon - Geophaps plumifera 105. Diamond Dove - Geopelia cuneata 106. Peaceful Dove - Geopelia placida 107. Red-tailed Black Cockatoo - Calyptorhynchus banksii 108. Carnaby’s Black Cockatoo - Calyptorhynchus latirostris 109. Baudin’s Black Cockatoo - Calyptorhynchus baudinii 110. Major Mitchell's Cockatoo - Lophochroa leadbeateri 111. Galah - Eolophus roseicapilla 112. Western Corella - Cacatua pastinator 113. Little Corella - Cacatua sanguinea 114. Cockatiel - Nymphicus hollandicus 115. Rainbow Lorikeet - Trichoglossus moluccanus 116. Purple-crowned Lorikeet - Glossopsitta porphyrocephala 117. Red-capped Parrot - Purpureicephalus spurius 118. Western Rosella - Platycercus icterotis 119. Mulga Parrot - Psephotellus varius 120. Bourke's Parrot - Neopsephotus bourkii 121. Elegant Parrot - Neophema elegans 122. Rock Parrot - Neophema petrophila 123. Regent Parrot - Polytelis anthopeplus 124. Australian Ringneck - Barnardius zonarius 125. Horsfield's Bronze Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx basalis 126. Shining Bronze Cuckoo - Chrysococcyx lucidus 127. Fan-tailed Cuckoo - Cacomantis flabelliformis 128. Eastern Barn Owl - Tyto delicatula 129. Southern Boobook - Ninox boobook 130. Tawny Frogmouth - Podargus strigoides 131. Spotted Nightjar - Eurostopodus argus 132. Laughing Kookaburra - Dacelo novaeguineae 133. Sacred Kingfisher - Todiramphus sanctus 134. Rainbow Bee-eater - Merops ornatus 135. Noisy Scrubbird - Atrichornis clamosus 136. Western Bowerbird - Chlamydera guttata 137. Rufous Treecreeper - Climacteris rufus 138. Variegated Fairywren - Malurus lamberti 139. Blue-breasted Fairywren - Malurus pulcherrimus 140. Red-winged Fairywren - Malurus elegans 141. Splendid Fairywren - Malurus splendens 142. White-winged Fairywren - Malurus leucopterus 143. Southern Emu-wren - Stipiturus malachurus

Lancelin

Ceynes Beach Several seen in Karijini

Fairly common in the southwest and easily encountered Fairly common in the more forested areas in southwest 3 at Paynes Find, only place along our route where it was possible Locally common – we saw them around York En route to Karijini

Common in southwest Fairly common in forests of southwest Common at Nallan Station Common at Nallan Station Very well seen early mornign at Hamelin Bay

Several heard at Cheynes beach, one seen.

Common in the southwestern tip. First found at Porongorup

A few seen at Fitzgerald N.P. and Stirling Range

144. Western Grasswren - Amytornis textilis 145. Singing Honeyeater - Gavicalis virescens 146. White-eared Honeyeater - Nesoptilotis leucotis 147. Purple-gaped Honeyeater - Lichenostomus cratitius 148. Grey-headed Honeyeater - Ptilotula keartlandi 149. Yellow-plumed Honeyeater - Ptilotula ornata 150. White-plumed Honeyeater - Ptilotula penicillata 151. Yellow-throated Miner - Manorina flavigula 152. Brown-headed Honeyeater - Melithreptus brevirostris 153. White-naped Honeyeater - Melithreptus lunatus 154. Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater - Acanthagenys rufogularis 155. Western Wattlebird - Anthochaera lunulata 156. Red Wattlebird - Anthochaera carunculata 157. Brown Honeyeater - Lichmera indistincta 158. New Holland Honeyeater - Phylidonyris novaehollandiae 159. Western Spinebill - Acanthorhynchus superciliosus 160. Crimson Chat - Epthianura tricolor 161. Orange Chat - Epthianura aurifrons 162. White-fronted Chat - Epthianura albifrons 163. Tawny-crowned Honeyeater - Gliciphila melanops 164. Gilbert's Honeyeater - Melithreptus chloropsis 165. White-cheeked Honeyeater - Phylidonyris niger 166. Western Bristlebird - Dasyornis longirostris 167. Spotted Pardalote - Pardalotus punctatus 168. Striated Pardalote - Pardalotus striatus 169. Rufous Fieldwren - Calamanthus campestris 170. Redthroat - Pyrrholaemus brunneus 171. White-browed Scrubwren - Sericornis frontalis 172. Weebill - Smicrornis brevirostris 173. Western Gerygone - Gerygone fusca 174. Dusky Gerygone - Gerygone tenebrosa 175. Inland Thornbill - Acanthiza apicalis 176. Chestnut-rumped Thornbill - Acanthiza uropygialis 177. Western Thornbill - Acanthiza inornata 178. Yellow-rumped Thornbill - Acanthiza chrysorrhoa 179. Slaty-backed Thornbill - Acanthiza robustirostris 180. Southern Whiteface - Aphelocephala leucopsis 181. Banded Whiteface - Aphelocephala nigricincta 182. Shy Heathwren - Calamanthus cautus 183. Western Fieldwren - Calamanthus montanellus 184. Grey-crowned Babbler - Pomatostomus temporalis 185. White-browed Babbler - Pomatostomus superciliosus 186. Western Whipbird - Psophodes nigrogularis 187. Chiming Wedgebill - Psophodes occidentalis 188. Western Quail-thrush - Cinclosoma marginatum 189. White-breasted Woodswallow - Artamus leucorynchus 190. Grey Butcherbird - Cracticus torquatus 191. Pied Butcherbird - Cracticus nigrogularis 192. Masked Woodswallow - Artamus personatus 193. Australian Magpie - Gymnorhina tibicen 194. Black-faced Woodswallow - Artamus cinereus 195. Dusky Woodswallow - Artamus cyanopterus 196. Grey Currawong - Strepera versicolor 197. Little Woodswallow - Artamus minor 198. Black-faced Cuckooshrike - Coracina novaehollandiae 199. White-winged Triller - Lalage tricolor 200. Varied Sittella - Daphoenositta chrysoptera 201. Crested Shriketit - Falcunculus frontatus 202. Western Whistler - Pachycephala occidentalis 203. Mangrove Golden Whistler - Pachycephala melanura 204. Rufous Whistler - Pachycephala rufiventris 205. White-breasted Whistler - Pachycephala lanioides 206. Grey Shrikethrush - Colluricincla harmonica

Easily found at Monkey Mia

A few seen at Fitzgerald N.P.

Mostly seen around Esperance

Regularly encountered in southwestern part of W.A. Cue Cue

Regularly encountered, locally common (e.g. Stirling Range) Several heard at Cheynes beach, one seen.

Fairly common along coast north from Coral Bay Small number at several places on northern part of route

Found in mangroves of northwestern W.A.

Common in southwestern part of W.A.

Near Kalbarri and at Nallan Station At the well-known place near Cue Quiss road, Fitzgerald, N.P. One on southern shoreline of Fitzgerald N.P., Only seen just east of Tom Price and near Cue

Several around Nallan Station and Mount Magnet

To our surprise only seen at Nallan Station. Split refused by IOC, seen in Dryandra and Stirling Range Retreat. Split from Golden Whistler, very common throughout southwest In the mangroves just south of Exmouth In the mangroves just south of Exmouth

207. Western Yellow Robin - Eopsaltria griseogularis 208. White-breasted Robin - Eopsaltria georgiana 209. Hooded Robin - Melanodryas cucullata 210. Jacky Winter - Microeca fascinans 211. Scarlet Robin - Petroica boodang 212. Red-capped Robin - Petroica goodenovii 213. Southern Scrub Robin - Drymodes brunneopygia 214. Mangrove Robin - Peneoenanthe pulverulenta 215. Willie Wagtail - Rhipidura leucophrys 216. Mangrove Fantail - Rhipidura phasiana 217. Grey Fantail - Rhipidura albiscapa 218. Magpie-lark - Grallina cyanoleuca 219. Restless Flycatcher - Myiagra inquieta 220. Torresian Crow - Corvus orru 221. Little Crow - Corvus bennetti 222. Australian Raven - Corvus coronoides 223. Welcome Swallow - Hirundo neoxena 224. Red-rumped Swallow - Cecropis daurica 225. Tree Martin - Petrochelidon nigricans 226. White-backed Swallow - Cheramoeca leucosterna 227. Australian Reed Warbler - Acrocephalus australis 228. Little Grassbird - Megalurus gramineus 229. Spinifexbird - Megalurus carteri 230. Brown Songlark - Megalurus cruralis 231. Rufous Songlark - Megalurus mathewsi 232. Canary White-eye - Zosterops luteus 233. Silvereye - Zosterops lateralis 234. Mistletoebird - Dicaeum hirundinaceum 235. Red-eared Firetail - Stagonopleura oculata 236. Star Finch - Neochmia ruficauda 237. Zebra Finch - Taeniopygia guttata 238. Australian Pipit - Anthus australis 239. Wilson's Storm Petrel - Oceanites oceanicus 240. Crested Bellbird - Oreoica gutturalis

Common and regularly encountered at many places in south

Only seen just south of Mandurah

Common in mangroves in Cape Range

Common at the Pinnacles

A few seen in Karijini

Fairly common in mangroves in the north

Seen at Valley of Giant ecopark and near waterfall Serpentine N.P. Only seen just east of Tom Price

One seen fairly well of Cape Range

Mammals

Rufous Hare Wallaby

Black-footed Rock Wallaby

Western Gray Kangaroo

1.

Greater Bilby - Macrotis lagotis

8.

Western Gray Kangaroo - Macropus fuliginosus

2.

Common Brushtail Possum - Trichosurus vulpecula

9.

Western Brush Wallaby - Macropus irma

3.

Western Ringtail Possum - Pseudocheirus occidentalis

10. Common Wallaroo - Macropus robustus

4.

Burrowing Bettong - Bettongia lesueur

11. Red Kangaroo - Macropus rufus

5.

Brush-tailed Bettong - Bettongia penicillata

12. Black-footed Rock Wallaby - Petrogale lateralis

6.

Rufous Hare Wallaby - Lagorchestes hirsutus

13. Australian Sea Lion - Neophoca cinerea

7.

Tammar Wallaby - Macropus eugenii

14. Common Dolphin - Delphinus delphis