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Green Bay, WI 54302

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The Expectant Cat Home delivery’s the norm, but Mom cat may need help from a veterinarian. You didn’t intent to, but you fell in love with the raggedy little calico that showed up on your doorstep. You contacted your local animal shelters and they assured you no one has reported a cat like her missing in your neighborhood, and so you decided to let her adopt you. After only a few days, you realized that her belly was bulging and that she’s taken a liking to that sweater on the floor in the corner of your closet. Today you have a new cat—tomorrow, it seems, you will have a litter of kittens as well. If you care for cats, there may be a time when you find yourself caring for a pregnant cat. Whether you have adopted an already pregnant cat, volunteered to provide foster care for one on behalf of your local animal shelter, or allowed your own cat to become pregnant, you will want to be knowledgeable about what lies ahead.

Is She or Isn’t She? The normal duration of pregnancy in the cat ranges from 60-68 days; average is 65-66 days. Some cats become noticeably rotund as they approach the birth date; others are less obviously pregnant (particularly large cats and those carrying one or two kittens). Pregnancy “tests” are not available for cats. “We do have some hormone tests that predict pregnancy in dogs,” says Carlos Gradil, DVM, MPSVS, MS, PhD, ACT and a specialist in animal reproduction with Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine in North Grafton, Massachusetts, “but there is no simple pregnancy diagnosis tests for cats yet available.” This is because there is no pregnancy specific hormone in cats that can be easily detected in their blood or urine. Pregnancy in cats can be detected by examination with the same ultrasound devices used to evaluate the health of human babies. Ultrasound examination of a cat at 16 to 20 days pregnant clearly

reveals the individual fluid-filled sac that holds the kitten within the uterus. At 25 days, the beating hearts of the kittens are visible. Pregnancy in cats can also be detected via radiograph (X-ray) examination. At 21 to 42 days, enlargement of the uterus can be seen. After 42 days, the kittens’ skeletons begin to contain enough bony material to be seen; prior to this, the developing bones are made only of soft cartilage, which is poorly detected by X-ray. A veterinarian can determine the number of fetuses and sometimes predict difficult births by looking at an X-ray of a pregnant cat. Even with these high-tech methods of detecting pregnancy available, veterinarians generally use a less sophisticated method—abdominal palpation. This is the act of feeling the organs within the cat’s abdomen by applying gentle pressure with the hands and fingers. Veterinarians routinely palpate the abdominal contents of their patients, and can often evaluate the size and shape of a cat’s liver, kidneys, bladder and other organs. Simply by palpating, a veterinarian can often detect the changes that occur in the uterus of a pregnant cat as kittens develop and grow. Feline fetuses are most easily detected by palpation at 20 to 30 days of pregnancy, when they are golf ball like bulges within the uterus. After 30 days, the uterus becomes so enlarged that the individual fetuses are difficult to palpate. After about 50 days into the pregnancy, as kittens near their birth size and begin to move about vigorously, they can once again be felt. Abdominal palpation is the least stressful (for a cat) and the least expensive (for you) method of detecting pregnancy—but it is not fail-proof. If a cat is obese, if she has only one or two kittens, or if she’s a nervous animal who tenses her abdomen when examined, it’s sometimes difficult or impossible for a veterinarian to detect and assess her pregnancy by this method.

Other Tell-Tale Signs Some cats hide their pregnancy and then unexpectedly produce a litter of kittens, but most do show signs of impending birth. Mammary gland development may begin in early pregnancy, especially in cats that have had kittens before. As the birth day nears, the mother’s nipples become swollen and erect; some may even begin to leak milk. Many cats groom their mammary glands and their perineal are (the region between the vulva and rectum) excessively in the days leading up to the birth, as hormones begin to make the skin in those areas more sensitive. There may be one additional clue to watch for: “Dogs often have a drop in body temperature shortly before giving birth, and the cat sometimes, but not always, exhibits this sign too,” says Dr. Gradil. In the week prior to giving birth, a cat will usually seek a dry, dark and comfortable place to give birth to her kittens. Cats like to be in places that smell like themselves, and making a “nest” a few days before giving birth gives a cat time to imbue the area with her own smell. Cats vary in the degree of seclusion they prefer: Some may look for a hidden spot in a corner closet or the depths of a basement or attic, while others will want to give birth in the middle of their favorite human’s bed.

When a human attempts to choose the location for a cat’s birthing, it can have negative results. Some cats can be coerced into using a bed or location provided by their human companion, but most will stubbornly insist on choosing their own spot to start their little family. Trying to convince a cat otherwise, i.e. by moving her or her bedding around, will only confuse her and prevent her from settling in before labor begins. The result may be a confused and frustrated cat that gives birth to kittens in more than one place, or in no particular place at all, such as the middle of the kitchen floor.

Preparing for “Birth Day” Parturition is the scientific name for the act of giving birth. In cats, it is also called “queening,” because cat breeders often refer to a female cat as a “queen” and a male cat as a “tom.” Normal parturition occurs when a female cat gives birth to one or more full term healthy kittens without assistance. Abnormal or difficult birth rarely occurs in cats—most cats deliver quietly on their own, and usually at night. If you’re responsible for a cat that will be giving birth, be familiar with the signs that indicate normal and abnormal labor. If veterinary assistance is going to be necessary, the sooner you realize it and take action, the better (and less stressful for both you and the cat) the outcome will be. Just like human mothers, cats experience labor and delivery in a myriad of ways. Some are calm and nonchalant and appear to immediately grasp the essentials of motherhood, while others are nervous and frustrated and have difficulty caring for their newborn kittens. The most common birth scenario is described here but individual cats can vary tremendously.

The Countdown As parturition nears, the mother-to-be may become increasingly restless, digging at the floor or the nesting material in the area where she intends to give birth. She may squat as if to urinate or defecate, without actually passing urine or feces. Some cats, particularly Siamese cats, may yowl and talk loudly at this time. The occasional cat will become extremely anxious and can behave aggressively toward their human companions. It is best to give a cat privacy and quiet as she readies herself to give birth, allowing her to concentrate on the task at hand. The first phase of birth is the contraction phase. The cat will usually groom herself actively, circle, rearrange her bedding, roll, squat or rub against a wall or other nearby surface. She appears uncomfortable, and contractions of the muscles of her abdomen may be obvious. This phase may last from a few seconds to as long as 90 minutes. The second phase of birth is the emergence phase, during which the kitten passes through the birth canal and becomes visible. Most kittens are born head first, but it’s not abnormal tor necessarily problematic for the tail-end to come out first. The amniotic sac (the thin sac of tissue and fluids in which the kitten is encased) is usually broken by the contractions of the cat’s uterus, but if not, the queen begins licking the kitten and breaks it herself.

The third phase, delivery, occurs when the kitten emerges completely. The mother cat licks the newborn vigorously, stimulating him to begin breathing. Most cats eat the amniotic sac, some bite the umbilical cord, while others do not. Some cats become excited and attempt to walk around, dragging the kitten by the umbilical cord. Within a few minutes after each kitten is born, most cats recognize the kitten and begin to provide proper care. The final stage is the placental phase. At this time, the placenta or “afterbirth” is expelled from the birth canal. The mother cat becomes restless as new contractions cause the placenta to be delivered. She may eat the placenta, breaking the umbilical cord with her teeth if she has not previously done so. This behavior may be unappealing to humans, but is evolutionarily important. Ingestion of the placenta provides the mother with fluid and nutrients that will bolster her strength and allow her to stay with her kittens as long as possible, instead of needing to seek food. It also keeps the nest area clean and free of odors that might attract predators. Even though your cat has you to provide nutrition and sanitation for her, disrupting or preventing this natural behavior may cause her distress. Avoid any urge you might have to remove placentas and other birth “debris” until it’s clear that she has no interest in them. This usually occurs once she begins to focus on grooming and feeding her kittens. Typically, the placenta of each kitten is passed before the next kitten is born. But it’s not uncommon for two or three kittens to be born before any placentas are passed. The length of time that passes between each kitten’s delivery may range from less than a minute to as long as an hour. Most kittens, however, are born within 15 to 30 minutes of each other, with the entire litter born in one or two hours. In rare cases, a cat may have kittens over a period of 24 hours or more. Very rarely, the last kitten may appear three or more days after the others. Such a prolonged birthing may occur if the mother has been disturbed after the birthing process has begun and feels she must move her nest to a different location.

The Assisted Birth Cats seldom have trouble giving birth but there are signs that indicate the need for veterinary assistance. When assistance is necessary, the veterinarian will examine the cat and may take an X-ray to determine the number of kittens not yet born (if any). She may administer intravenous fluids to the mother cat to treat or prevent shock and blood loss. The veterinarian may administer drugs to strengthen the cat’s contractions and help her to deliver the kitten herself. Next she will attempt to manipulate the kitten within the birth canal so that he can be pushed out, and may use forceps to gently pull the kitten. “The most common circumstance of a difficult birth occurs when the muscles of the uterus stop contracting,” explains Dr. Gradil. “In these cases, the veterinarian may administer the hormone oxytocin, which will cause the uterus to begin contracting again. This usually allows the cat to push the kitten out on her own.” When these efforts fail, a Caesarian section with the use of anesthesia is necessary. The type of anesthesia used varies. Your veterinarian may administer an epidural, or may determine that general anesthesia is best.

Modern anesthetic drugs, critical care techniques and monitoring equipment greatly enhance the chance of a successful delivery and full recovery of the mother. At this time, if the procedure goes well and the cat is tolerating anesthesia, an ovariohysterectomy (spay surgery) can often be performed. This additional procedure generally doesn’t affect the mother cat’s milk production or her mothering abilities, and will prevent her from becoming pregnant again at a later date. A short-acting anesthetic is used for C-section surgery and so the cat usually recovers quickly. Until she regains consciousness, keep kittens warm, dry and together. It’s usually not necessary to feed them, but if the mother’s recovery is delayed for any reason, feeding with a kitten milk replacer may be necessary. How many kittens? The norm is 1 to 9, but litters of 10 to 13 are possible. First time mothers may have a single kitten. It’s not uncommon for one or two kittens to be stillborn, although these often go undetected because the mother cat quickly eats them, using their bodies to supply nutrients for the rest of the litter.

Get Medical Assistance If… If any of the following occur, contact a veterinarian immediately for advice and assistance. Be ready to quickly transport the cat, and any kittens that have been born, to the veterinary hospital. Ideally, one person should drive while another monitors the cat and kittens. As always, be sure that the cat is safely enclosed in a carrier or strong box. If the mother cat is attentive to kittens already born, they can be enclosed with her. If not, place them in a small box with a clean, dry towel. Place a hot water bottle filled with warm (not hot) water and wrapped in a thick towel into the box to keep the kittens warm during transport. Be certain that the bottle is positioned so it can’t possibly crush the kittens, and so that there’s room for them to move away from it if they become too warm. Watch closely for the following trouble signs: 1. Intense labor for more than 20 minutes without a kitten being delivered. 2. Intense labor for more than 10 minutes while a kitten or amniotic sac is visible in the birth canal. 3. The cat becomes severely depressed (too weak to move or respond to your voice or touch). 4. The cat’s body temperature (taken rectally) exceeds 103 degrees Fahrenheit. 5. There is bloody or foul-smelling discharge from the birth canal.

Mothering, Feline Style After the birth, allow the new family some privacy so the mother cat can concentrate on caring for her litter. For the first few days, she will remain with the litter almost all the time, only leaving them occasionally for an hour or so. After that, she may choose not to stay with them at all times, but may

only visit to feed and check on them every few hours. As long as the kittens are warm and sleeping quietly with slightly distended abdomens, the mother has provided proper care and doesn’t necessarily need to remain in the nest with them. The kittens will grow quickly and the mother cat will begin to wean them at about 3 to 4 weeks of age. The litter should remain together until the kittens are at least 8 weeks of age. In addition to nutrition, warmth and grooming, the mother cat provides her kittens with important lessons in social behavior of cats. As they become mobile and playful, it is normal for the mother cat to bat them on the nose, give them a low growl or turn away from them when they bite or chew on her. This disciplining teaches them that other cats do not appreciate such behavior, and provides a basis for their interaction with other cats throughout their lives. Mother cats may be ready to breed again (come into “heat”) only six to eight weeks after a litter of kittens is born-some cats are ready as early as seven to ten days after giving birth. Be careful not to allow the mother cat to have contact with a tomcat during this time, so that she does not become pregnant again. Once the kittens are eating well on their own and the cat’s mammary glands have begun to stop producing milk, mother and kittens may be separated for a few hours. At this time an appointment should be made to have your cat spayed if an ovariohysterectomy was not performed. Spaying your cat is a loving act that will allow her to live a happy and healthy life, without again adding to the burden of unwanted cats.

Eating For…How Many? While pregnant cats may not crave pickles and ice cream, they do need special nutrition before and after giving birth. A pregnant cat should be fed a high quality growth type diet (canned or dry kitten formula) throughout pregnancy. This diet is especially important during the last three to four weeks of pregnancy, and throughout the nursing period. During the last 10 to 15 days of pregnancy, an enlarged uterus may make it difficult for the cat to consume much food at one time. Food should be provided free-choice, or given as three to five meals per day. A cat may eat about 125 percent of a normal cat’s ration at this point. Water intake is also important; clean, fresh water should be available at all times. The amount of food required by a nursing mother depends on the size of her litter. A cat with only one kitten may eat only as much as she did previously. A mother with a large litter may eat two to three times the amount a normal cat would. Continue feeding a kitten diet at this time, because adult maintenance diets don’t provide the extra calories and protein that a lactating mother cat needs. Again, be sure plenty of water is available; never underestimate the amount of water needed to provide milk for a hungry litter of kittens! As mother cat begins weaning the litter at 3 to 4 weeks of age, decreasing the amount of food that she eats will help to prevent painful swelling of the mammary glands and the discomfort associated

with weaning. Gradually switch her back to an adult maintenance diet (mix the two diets together at first) and then decrease the amount of food she eats. As the kittens near 7 weeks of age, limit their contact with her somewhat, so that they have eaten a good meal before playing with her. This will lessen their interest in nursing, and allow mother cat to gradually stop producing milk. All information taken from Catnip. Article by Leslie Sinclair, DVM