Volume 4 South Asia and Southeast Asia Editor: Jasleen Dhamija
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Contents Encyclopedia' Preface Preface to South Asia and Southeast Asia
xv xvii
PART 1; Overview of Dress and Fashion in South Asia and Southeast Asia Introductory Note on South Asia and Southeast Asia Jasleen Dhamlja Dress and Its Symbolic Significance in South Asia and Southeast Asia Victoria l. Rivers
3
Nepal Glaire Burkert
87
Sri lanka Nira Wickramasinghe and Farzana Haniffa
95
Bhutan Tshering Uden Penjor
102
The Maldive Islands Jasleen Dhamija
109
4
PART 4: Types of Dress in South Asia The Sari SNAPSHOT: The Sari and the Kimono
PART 2: Dress and Fashion in South Asia Introduction to South Asia Jasleen Dhamlja
19
Aarti Kawlra
History of Textiles of South Asia J2sleen Dhamija
30
Stitched and Shaped Garments SNAPSHOT: Storage of Clothing in Ancient India
80dy Decoration in South Asia Archana Shastri
38
Fashion and the Garment Industry in South Asia Vandana Bhandari
45
Cross-Dressing in South Asia Alka Pande
52
115 126 129 135
Kalyan Krishna
PART 3: Countries of South Asia
Jewelry of Indo-Pakistan and Bangladesh Usha Bala
138
The Sash, Patka, or Kamarband B. N. Goswamy
147
The Shawl and the Head Cover Rosemary Grill
152
The Kashmir Shawl: AHistorical Study SNAPSHOI Pashmina, Cashmere, and Shahtoosh
157
India Jasleen Dhamija
61
Janet Rizvi
Pakistan Nasreen Askari
72
The Kashmir Shawl and Its Use in the Indo-Islamic World and Europe Janet Rizvi
Bangladesh Niaz Zaman
80
The Turban: India and Pakistan Vandana Bhandari
163
165 171
viii
CONTENTS
South Asian Footwear: History, Tradition, and Contemporary Trends luffa lain-Neubauer
117
PART 7: Countries of Southeast Asia
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PART 5: Peoples and Dress of South Asia
Laos Uraiwan Pitimaneeyakul and Karen L. LaBat
271
Vietnam Christine Hemmet
276
Ladakh Monisha Ahmed
185
Dress of the Exile: Tibetan Monisha Ahmed and Susan Vickery
194
Thailand Uraiwan Pitimaneeyakul and Karen L. LaBat
285
Himalayan Buddhist Communities Monisha Ahmed
201
Myanmar Sylvia Fraser-Lu
290
Nagaland and Nagas of Manipur Vibha loshi
205
Cambodia Gillian Green
299
Ethnic Groups of Arunachal Pradesh, Northeast India Sucheta Sen Chaudhuri and Sarit Kumar Chaudhuri
212
Cambodia: Historical Dress Gil/ian Green
305 311
Rites of Passage and Rituals in India lasleen Dhamija
216
Malaysia Norwani Md. Nawawi
320
SNAPSHOT The Erotie in Indian Dress
220
Indonesia Itie van Hout Philippines: North George R. Ellis
332
222
Philippines: Central Florina H. Capistrano-Baker and Sandra B. Castro
337
Royal Dress in India and Pakistan Ritu Kumar
229
Philippines: South Cherubim Quizon
343
Fashion in Post-Independence India Laila Tyabji
234
Translated by lulie Banatre
lasleen Dhamlja
Coloniallnfluence on Dress in the Indian Subcontinent Donald Clay lohnson
I
Ethnic Dress and Jewelry of the Hili Tribes of Chittagong Arshi Dewan Roy
239
SNAPSHOT: Dress of the Ranas of Nepal
246
Gautam SJB. Rana
Coloniallnfluence on Dress in Sri Lanka Nira Wickramasinghe
249
I
PART 6: Dress and Fashion in Southeast Asia Introduction to Southeast Asia Ruth Barnes
257
The Fashion World of Southeast Asia Edric Ong
263
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'PÄRT 8:' p'eoples and"',Dress of Southeast Asia -
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Rites of Passage and Rituals in Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia Susan Conway
353
Rites of Passage and Ritual Traditions of the Shan Susan Conway
357
Court Dress of Thailand: History and Symbolic Significance Susan Conway
361
SNAPSHOT The Thai King's Colors
365
Leedom Lefferts
Body Modification in Thailand: Tattooing Deborah Hili
367
CONTENTS The Sarong Kebaya 01 Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia Chor Lin Lee
373
Beaded and Embroidered Accessories 01 the Peranakan Chinese Hwei-Fe'n Cheah
381
The Textile Tradition of Malaysia and Its Impact on Dress Adline Abdul Chani Jewelry of Malaysia Mohammed Kassim Bin Ha)i Ali Ethnic Dress and Adornment of the Dayaks of Sabah, Sarawak, and Kalimantan Edne Ong
387 396
4D5
ix
SNAPSHOT: Cross-Dressing in Indonesia Marianne Hulsboseh
438
Batik Dress of Java SNAPSHOT Iwan lirta and Javanese Batik Haute Couture
441 445
Maria Wronska-Friend SNAPSHOT Tattooing in the Philippines Analyn V Salvador-Amores
448
SNAPSHOT- Tnoth Staining in the Philippines Analyn V Salvador-Amores
450
SNAPSHOT: Used Clothing in the Philippines B. Lynne Milgram
452
SNAPSHOl Revival of Pina Cloth and Dress Southern Luzon and Central Philippines B. Lynne Milgram
455
Chinese Dr,ess in Singapore Chor Lin Lee
412
Rites of Passage and Rituals in Indonesia Marianne Hulsboseh
419
PART 9: Dress of the Diaspora
Coloniallnfluence on Dress in Indonesia Ille van Haut
426
MiaolHmong in Australia Maria Wronska-Friend
459
466
433
Miao/Hmong in the United States Mary Aliee Chaney
471
436
South Asian Diaspora Hazel A. Lutz Index
481
MP HOT: Coloniallnfluence on the Sarong and Kain in Java Mariarme Hulsboseh "I PSHOT: Jewelry in Indonesia Jasleen Dhamlja
