16 | Mana | 2008 | FEATURE

Threading the ‘ula

U

nder a perfectly thatched twelve-posted fale a strapping young Samoan leans his arm on a plastic covered bench. Rolling up his sleeve, the young man exposes a bicep ready for fresh ink.

In front of him, Turumakina Duley,

with his facial moko and numerous body tattoos, dips an electric gun in a bowl of liquefied black. With the first drawing of blood, Maori patterns are permanently etched onto Samoan skin. Awed onlookers absorb one offering of Aotearoa’s artistry and in this moment of cultural exchange, a realisation occurs: this is the epitome of the entire festival - the exposure of Pacific art forms to a captive audience; the revitalisation and sharing of traditions amongst artists, and the cultural reconnection between Pacific cousins.

From July 20 to August 2 over 2000 artists from 22 Pacific Island nations gathered for the 10th Festival of Pacific Arts. The historic jamboree that has spanned over 30 years was this year hosted by American Samoa. Its unifying theme Threading the Oceanic ‘Ula, describes the coming together of the Pacific family and was signified by the traditional Samoan necklace (ula). Through Creative New Zealand, a diverse contingent of artists was selected to represent Aotearoa in the creative exchange. Qiane Corfield-Matata packed her laptop and her camera and spent eight days with our delegation at the festival.

From the minute you step off the plane you are engulfed by heat. Only a 45-minute flight east of Samoa, the mountainous Tutuila, American Samoa’s main island, is in its dry season. Uncharacteristically it’s drizzling, but the droplets don’t make a dent in the temperature.

A huge sign on the runway greets us and local girls start to siva

as music wafts across the tarmac. This reception committee has already greeted hundreds of delegates as they arrived from all corners of the Pacific.

We’re told not to worry, most of our luggage will be on a later

plane - this ‘go with the flow’ instruction typifying a laid back trait we would later learn is customary in these friendly islands. As we make our way to the nearby fale to be formally greeted by the local Matai, we’re each gifted a hand-made ‘ula.

Even before the festival has begun there is a buzz on the island.

Locals have decorated their houses with streamers; welcome banners with multi-lingual salutations hang in front gardens, and roads are lined with decorative piles of coconuts spray painted in silver and gold. Young boys armed with machetes clear tall grass from their properties, stopping to wave at passers-by. And every single local is wearing a smile.

Enthusiastic local volunteers are everywhere. From the minute

we arrive a small group is assigned to our delegation, each of them generously giving up their days to escort, assist, entertain

FEATURE | 2008 | Mana | 17

laid eyes on. An enthusiastic choir belts out gospel hymns, the arms of the passionate conductor flailing in styles that club-dance krumpers would envy. Over 1000 people of all different creeds flood through the doors. Striking blue and green lavalava lace the people of Fiji, finely woven mats wrap the Tongans and the locals are in pure white, with a flower or two in the old mamas’ hair.

Marquees outside stretch half the length of

the church, and house excess attendees. Most don’t have far to come as the accompanying lodges on the large premises accommodated over 900 delegates from Palau to New Caledonia for the duration of the festival.

congregation. He’s followed by a reverent

and share with us. And thanks to the delegation

minister who delivers a stern Christian

organisers we also have our own chefs, medical staff

and

an

extremely

Governor Togiola Tulafono greets the

sermon. At his request the Aotearoa delegation

hardworking

gives an impromptu rendition of Whakaaria

technician.

As I tiki-tour the local village by waewae



With its 130-strong delegation, Aotearoa is

Mai. This is later much praised by VIPs who

express the ‘proud Polynesian’ girl in me isn’t

one of the biggest contingents here. Talent is

comment on how well rehearsed the ‘choir’

expecting such a strong American influence,

rich and free flowing, and amongst the locals,

was.

even though I’m in a US territory. The army

we are one of the most popular. Local utes

base, where Samoan soldiers await deployment

packed with Samoan families park outside our

to Iraq, is just around the corner from our

marae-style residence, Nu’uuli Polytech in

temporary residence. Sure enough so is

Tafuna village, to catch a glimpse of Whangara

McDonalds. Cars drive on the right and

Mai Tawhiti’s kapa haka practice.

grocers’ shelves are filled with Kool Aid and



Travelling with a bunch of artists has its

Twinkies. But the Samoan people give me back

quirks. It’s rare that you get the cream of

a little faith in my Mangere upbringing with

Aotearoa creativity in one place, and with it

their brightly-coloured aiga buses. In true

comes

Pacific style, these home-built wooden wagons

knowledge-sharing

and

unique

collaborations.

are the main form of public transport around



Late night jam sessions fuse the likes of

the island. Decked out with fluffy, glittery

‘pros’ Dam Native, Toni Huata and King

feather boas they bounce to the sound of

Kapisi, with kapa haka members and the odd

UB40 and local island tunes that bellow from

visual artist. Playing ukulele, guitar, and

onboard DVD and stereo systems. One dollar

plastic-barrel-turned-drum, music is made

gets you anywhere and a double tap on the

into the wee hours when the only other noise

roof cues the driver to pull over at your stop.

is the waves crashing on the nearby shore.

And while the kaupapa of the festival is

focused Aotearoa

on

connecting

made

across

memorable

borders,

connections

within the confines of our kura. Joined by

The first of the official celebrations for the

head of delegation Te Arikinui Kingi Tuheitia

festival falls on a Sunday. Living in a suburb

and his wife Atawhai, we do what any Maori

with a church on every corner I’ve seen my

would do when given a guitar, an outdoor

share, but the Kanana Fou Theological

spotlight and a mic – we have a concert!

Seminary church is by far the biggest I’ve ever



In the middle of a thundering tropical

official opening ceremony.

rainstorm – a good omen one of the locals



tells me - 500 villagers dressed in white sit on

blazing sirens of the police escort that precedes

Surrounded by large Samoan men, skin

the saturated grass and perform a local

the Governor’s big black Ford Expedition. But

drenched in oil, bodies draped in tapa and

legend.

it’s the parade that really has everyone’s

exposing intricately detailed pe’a tatau, a



attention.

wooden bowl sits ceremoniously on a fine

made fine mats are presented to the heads of



woven mat at Fagatogo Malae. The roots of

delegation who sit in an elevated dome shelter

music,

the ava (kava) tree drown in the bowl’s liquid

at one end of the outdoor arena.

costumes and one guy from Guam waving a

before being squeezed like a common



This is only the first ceremony of the day.

human skull.

dishcloth. The taupo throws the root behind



In the late afternoon we are hauled into big



“Ko Paikea, Ko Paikea!”

her in one swift motion before it is caught in

yellow school buses, the ones you see on



The crowd erupts as Whangara Mai Tawhiti

mid-air by a le ta fau (tattooed untitled

American high school dramas, and head 15

lead Aotearoa and taonga puoro artists

male).

minutes away to Tafuna Stadium for the

Horomona Horo and James Webster who are

Like great canoe sails, 40 foot-wide hand-

By now I have become accustomed to the

Rich colours, native languages, Pacific traditional

instruments,

lavish

wearing designs by fashion designer Suzanne Tamaki. If this isn’t weaving a kete of Aotearoa artistry then I don’t know what is! The passion and pride of the haka roars across the stadium. The perfectly thatched, twelve-posted fale at Samoana High School - 20 minutes in the direction of ‘town’ - was the festival’s exhibition headquarters. Weavers, painters, carvers, musicians, storytellers, actors, ta moko artists, sculptors: the fale was buzzing and I got to see the true extent of their artistry.

Aotearoa digital storytellers shared their

visual works via three television sets. Jo Tito’s

FEATURE | 2008 | Mana | 19

impressive photographic exhibition showed

Maori battalion soldier and an Italian soldier

images of harakeke printed on hand-made

came to a climax, there wasn’t a dry eye in the

harakeke paper, and Samoan and Solomon

house.

Island carvers contributed to the design on a



huge log carved by New Zealand. Across the

Tapa cloths over 20 metres long, wide brimmed

road at Utulei Beach kapa haka echoed across

hats made from simple palm leaves, and

the sand and a lesson in haka saw even the

tattoos. Maori patterns or island designs on

local Matai get up and have a go.

legs, backs, hands; there was always a recipient



Every day brought something different.

Individual. Inspirational. Innovative.

Maori storytellers incorporated taonga

eager to get a bit of history and culture

puoro in the portrayal of traditional tales: it

permanently stamped onto their skin. The

wasn’t clear who drew the short straw when

three Aotearoa tattooists, Mark Kopua, Derek

the Paikea legend had Rob Ruha transform

Lardelli and Tu Duley were doing it the

into a whale and Joe Harawira play the ancestor

modern way, but over on the beach the Samoan

riding to Aotearoa on the whale’s back.

tatau was all traditional.

Presented in te reo Maori, the tale drew bursts



of laughter from festival-goers.

see the dancers, the fashion show, or the Po

Open Day @ MIT



Sunday 12 October, 11am-4pm

Young and old gathered to learn about the

Aotearoa. But tawhirimatea was calling me

history of koauau and watched while intricate

home, literally – the news said it was one of

designs were etched into the white bone.

the worst cyclones to hit New Zealand!

Breathless children never gave up trying to



conjure the hypnotic bird sounds.

ahead of me in Apia, but an encounter with a



Painters collaborated with Pacific nationals,

multi-lingual two-year-old Rapa Nui toddler

creating artworks representing the colourful

– who was accompanied by her parents, also

You will find out how the Master of

festival spirit. Stone Maka named his

departing the festivities early – reinforced the

Business Administration and the

accordingly: Utulei is Burning and Tu I

kaupapa of this entire cultural exchange.

Doctor of Business Administration

Pagopago. Samoan patterns lent inspiration to



programmes offered by Southern

Carla Ruka’s clay works.

my broken Maori, and her Rapa Nui reo, we

Cross University, Australia, have



“We will march, march, march to the

managed to chase a stray cat around the open-

been specifically designed to work

enemy…ake ake kia kaha e.” The audience at

aired terminal and play hand games. We were

around you and your life.

the turtle-shaped Lee Auditorium didn’t know

sharing an ancestral language and in some

Both are offered exclusively in

what hit them when two Maori and an Italian

part, our Pacific history.

New Zealand in partnership with

I was dreading the seven-hour transit wait

Without a word of English, conversing in

took to the stage to present the play, Strange Resting Places.

A huge mihi to Creative New Zealand for



sponsoring Qiane on this trip.

Their superb acting had the spectators in

fits of laughter and when the story of a young

If you want to get ahead but still have a life, then come to our Open Day.

Manukau Institute of Technology, as supported distance learning programmes. MBA DBA Open Day Sunday 12 October

When: Call in from 11am to 4pm Where: Manukau Institute of Technology Room NS217 NR Block, North Campus Gate 11, Otara Road Otara, Manukau City Alternatively, call MIT on 0800 MBA DBA (0800 622 322) or email [email protected] for our information pack.

80112 6566 mana

For me it was time to leave before I could

MBA & DBA

20 | Mana | 2008 | FEATURE

“I was soaking up the atmosphere watching our Polynesian/Melanesian/ Micronesian brothers and sisters. An explosion of colour, culture and love. Parts of me are still back in Pagopago. I’m already planning on going to the next one with my son Rangiteaorere.” Cerisse Palalagi

“It is wonderful to see how every art form extends the imagination by fusing something new, sometimes challenging…giving us a deeper insight into that island, culture, artist and person.” Toni Huata

FEATURE | 2008 | Mana | 21

“The best artists from 22 islands strutting their stuff for the world to see, the amazing hospitality of the tangata whenua through trying times and with limited resources, and the enthusiasm of each island to share, is inspiring, powerful and humbling.” Robert Ruha

22 | Mana | 2008 | FEATURE

Reflections

S

ince 1972 the Festival of Pacific Arts has been the largest cultural gathering for Pacific Island nations. Set up to combat the erosion of traditional customary practices, it also celebrates and recognises the richness and diversity of Pacific cultures.



Twenty-seven Pacific countries and territories now participate

- from Tuvalu and Kiribati to Niue and Wallis and Futuna, and for 36 years New Zealand artists have actively contributed to the festivities.

At the first-ever festival, held in Fiji, Aotearoa was represented

by musician Bill Kerekere and the Waihirere kapa haka group and Ngapo and Pimia Wehi. In 1976 the festival made its way to Rotorua, the only time New Zealand has hosted it.

Te Waka Toi Chair, Ngahuia Te Awekotuku, remembers the

cultural leaders and visionaries of those early times.

“Immediately I think of the Maori Queen (Te Atairangikaahu)

how she was an inspiring presence at every festival. She would have attended at least seven as the head of the delegation and as the ceremonial and paramount leader.

“At this year’s festival Kingi Tuheitia was a significant presence.

His coming was an important affirmation and a reminder of the whakapapa links we have as Maori with our Pacific cousins.

“You listen to the reo of the people from Hawaii, Tahiti and

Rapa Nui, you look at their faces and you just know that we are related. It’s ancestral, rhythmic, and raw,” she says.

“It was a privilege to be a part of the festival. One thing I

particularly enjoyed was the malu (Samoan female tattoo) exhibition. Aiga Suluape completed 40 malu during the festival and they were presented in a fashion-like show on Utulei Beach. The women ranged from a mature masiofo (wife of a paramount chief), to a dubious 16-year-old. For those few moments the world could admire and marvel at the art they were wearing before it became private and exclusively theirs.”

New Zealand delegation coordinator, Mikki-Tae Tapara, says

the importance of attending the Festival of Pacific Arts is to ensure Aotearoa voices are heard overseas. And with the calibre of Kiwi artists in attendance, New Zealand culture was deafening.

Ngahuia, who had a hand in selection of artists, agrees.



“The artists’ talent, spontaneity, and generosity of spirit made

the festival an unforgettable experience,” she says.

The next Festival of Pacific Arts will be held in 2012 in Solomon

Islands and if this year’s festival is anything to go by it will once again remind Aotearoa that although a group of people may reside on tiny atolls and islands far from our rugged shores, we are all part of a greater Pacific-wide culture.