Travel Spec i a l P r o m ot i o n
travel in iceland Pages 93-103
Iceland Review takes you on a roundtrip of the country, making stopovers at several delightful destinations along the way, listing some of the main attractions in the Westfjords, North, South, East and West Iceland.
Compiled by Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir and Alëx Elliott. Photos by Páll Stefánsson and others
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N ort h I c e l an d
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Akureyri – Little Big City
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As the largest municipality in Iceland outside the capital region, with 18,000 inhabitants, Akureyri is, in essence, a small town with a big city atmosphere.
With its welcoming atmosphere and abundance of events and activities, Akureyri is worth a visit in all seasons. An attraction in itself, the town is also a base for exploring North Iceland. All-Year Destination Boasting a number of museums, galleries, shops, restaurants, cafés, clubs and concert venues, the local art and music scene is bustling and the town is home to the country’s only professional theater outside Reykjavík. The culture center Hof at the harbor has a varied program and also houses the North Iceland tourist information office. The Botanical Garden is a favored hangout, as is the local thermal pool and forest Kjarnaskógur, just outside town. Visitors can choose between a variety of sightseeing tours and activities, including golfing, hiking, diving, sea angling and whale watching. A stroll through the town’s center or old town is a delight. As winter falls, the landscape transforms with a cover of powder snow and Iceland’s most popular ski resort in Hlíðarfjall mountain—ten minutes from town—gets busy. After darkness falls, the northern lights often come out; a major attraction among visitors to North Iceland. 94
Islands Extraordinaire Two inhabited islands are part of the Akureyri municipality. Hrísey, a nature reserve since 1977, is famous for its varied birdlife and vegetation. It takes 15 minutes to reach the island from Árskógssandur (a 30-minute drive from Akureyri) by ferry. Grímsey, Iceland’s northernmost inhabited island, which lies on the Arctic Circle, can be reached by a three-hour ferry ride from Dalvík (a little further than Árskógssandur), or by air from Akureyri. Also a paradise for bird lovers, its sea cliffs are filled with nesting puffins, guillemots and other seabirds in the summer. The little big city of the fair north looks forward to your visit. visitakureyri.is/en
Akureyri is located in the innermost part of the long fjord Eyjafjörður.
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North Iceland
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Skagafjörður – Horsing Around Horses, sagas, pools, islands, fish leather and adrenaline-boosting adventures are only a few of the many reasons you should visit beautiful Skagafjörður in North Iceland.
Hofsós swimming pool.
Horse-roundup at Laufskálarétt pen.
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ga saga. Visitors should not miss a visit to Drangey island, where Grettir Ásmundarson was outlawed, or a soak in Grettislaug, the geothermal natural pool where he warmed up after swimming from the island to fetch fire. Fosslaug is another popular natural pool in the region, and the swimming pool in Hofsós is truly unique for its views, where swimmers marvel at the unobstructed view of Drangey. Island tours are a must. There are two other islands in Skagafjörður fjord: Málmey and Þórðarhöfði, and all are known for their rich birdlife. In Sauðárkrókur you can find the only tannery in Europe which produces fish leather. Guided tours of the tannery are offered, where fish skin is expertly processed to make high-quality leather. Other museums worth a visit include the Icelandic Emigration Center in Hofsós, the Heritage House Glaumbær (an old turf farm) , Icelandic Horse Center and the Icelandic Beer Center. In summer and winter, Skagafjörður has plenty of tours and activities on offer, ranging from adrenaline-boosting adventures like rafting on glacial rivers and heli-skiing in steep mountains, to sightseeing tours by foot, horse, car or boat, sea angling, fishing in lakes and rivers, sharpshooting, archery, bird hunting, golfing and skiing at the Tindastóll resort. Opportunities are endless.
owhere in Iceland is the Icelandic horse held in higher regard than in Skagafjörður. The region is famous for its quality riding horses and colorful herds are everywhere to be seen, grazing on fresh green grass in summer, happy foals frolicking, and standing out in the snowy winter landscape, fat and fluffy in their winter coats. Unsurprisingly, horseback riding is a favored activity in the region and visitors can choose from a number of horse rentals. Skagafjörður is also frequented by saga enthusiasts, as many of the most famous scenes from the Icelandic sagas are set there; including the Flugumýri arson and battle of Haugsnes from Sturlun-
visitskagafjordur.is Rafting in Austari-Jökulsá. ICELAND REVIEW
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East Iceland – Unique Experiences Swim in a pool on the banks of a salmon river, look out for the famous Lagarfljót monster, visit authentic fishing villages with a bohemian vibe, feel awestruck by narrow fjords and high mountains and experience everything else East Iceland has to offer.
View of Vopnafjörður.
Fishing in Seyðisfjörður.
Vopnafjörður – Scenic Swim and Hiking Heaven
Fljótsdalshérað – Embracing the Highlands
Visit Bustarfell, one of the best preserved turf farms in Iceland, exhibiting farming methods from the mid-18th century to the 1960s, enjoy traditional dishes served at café Hjáleigan and walk along the river Þuríðará. Other hikes lead through the Fuglabjargarnes nature reserve, characterized by vertical sea cliffs and rich birdlife, and down Þverárgil canyon with its colorful rhyolite mountains. The local culture center, Kaupvangur, in one of Vopnafjörður’s oldest houses, is well worth a visit. It includes Múlastofa, an exhibition dedicated to musical brothers Jón Múli and Jónas Árnason. Not to be missed is the Selárdalslaug swimming pool on the banks of salmon fishing river Selá. vopnafjordur.com
Fljótsdalshérað stretches from the sandy beaches of Héraðssandar to the mighty Vatnajökull glacier in the highlands. The landscape is diverse, offering endless opportunities for activities in summer and winter. The glacial river Lagarfljót, famous for the serpent Lagarfljótsormurinn (akin to the Loch Ness Monster), flows through the entire region. Fljótsdalshérað is part of Vatnajökull National Park, with its rugged mountains, geothermal areas and wild reindeer all within the region’s borders. The region’s capital, Egilsstaðir, stands on crossroads in the center of East Iceland. You can enjoy a great variety of restaurants and cafés and accommodation options in the region. You’ll also find all the services you need, including shops, supermarkets, a pharmacy, banks, swimming pool, international airport, tourist information center and travel agencies. In winter, it’s the perfect place to view the northern lights and take day tours to all the interesting places in the local area. visitegilsstadir.is
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Clockwise from the top left: Kaupvangur, the Vopnafjörður culture center, built 1882; the swimming pool in Neskaupstaður, Fjarðabyggð; the swimming pool in Egilsstaðir, Fljótsdalshérað; the church at Berufjörður in Djúpavogshreppur; view of Egilsstaðir on the banks Lagarfljót, Fljótsdalshérað.
Seyðisfjörður – Cultural and Natural Paradise
Djúpivogur – Artistic Hotspot
Nestled by the long and deep fjord of the same name, surrounded on all sides by high mountains, Seyðisfjörður is a natural paradise, one of Lonely Planet’s top picks in Iceland. Year-round, a number of artists are based in Seyðisfjörður, some of whom come through the Skaftfell Center for Visual Art’s artist-in residence program. The LungA art festival is a week-long event for young artists held every summer, renowned for its unique atmosphere. The LungA art school, which sprung from the festival, will start this autumn. The local culture and art life is booming and there are several other festivals, exhibitions and workshops to choose from. visitseydisfjordur.com
Rolling Snowball/5 is a Chinese-European exhibition, running until August 15, 2014, initiated by the Chinese European Art Center (CEAC) in partnership with Djúpivogur. Photographs, paintings, sculptures, videos and drawings from 33 artists are on display. CEAC has also opened an artist residency in Djúpivogur. Already an artistic hotspot, 34 granite sculptures by Sigurður Guðmundsson, representing eggs, line the town’s pier. Focusing on local products and hospitality, Djúpivogur became the first municipality in Iceland to obtain Cittaslow certification. Tourists are also attracted by the region’s rich birdlife, with tours to Papey island being popular, and colorful minerals; nature reserve Teigarhorn is famous for its zeolites. djupivogur.is
Fjarðabyggð – Just Wonderful Comprised of six picturesque inhabited fjords, Mjóifjörður, Norðfjörður (Neskaupstaður), Eskifjörður, Reyðarfjörður, Fáskrúðsfjörður and Stöðvarfjörður, Fjarðabyggð offers a friendly smalltown atmosphere and a wonderful experience of genuine Icelandic fishing villages. Each settlement has its own characteristics, reflected in local restaurants, cafés, galleries and handicraft. The region also has first-class swimming pools, noteworthy museums, three golf courses and extensive services for tourists. Tour operators specialize in the versatile experience of Icelandic nature. In winter, visitors can go skiing at the local resort. Find your favorite hotel, guesthouse or campsite and enjoy unlimited access to wonderful natural treasures.
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From the left: a kayak rental in Seyðisfjörður; the eggs in Gleðivík, Djúpivogur.
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South Iceland – Volcanic Wonderland Shaped by glaciers and volcanoes, the spectacular landscape of the south is an attraction in all seasons. Hike a pristine white glacier, watch the waves crash against a black-sand beach and join a fun treasure hunt to discover South Iceland’s natural wonders.
Crater Laki near Kirkjubæjarklaustur.
Reynisdrangar near Vík.
Kirkjubæjarklaustur – Hunting for Treasures In the heart of South Iceland lies the scenic village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur—Klaustur for short—the site of an ancient convent. The region, part of Katla Geopark, is famous for its geology and extraordinary landscape shaped by volcanic eruptions and the glacial river Skaftá. Locatify SmartGuides are available for free: a guided tour of a 20-km (12-mile) trail highlighting the area’s history and geology, an app allowing users to experience the disastrous 1783-1784 Laki eruption and a treasure hunt with fun facts for the whole family. Also, by using a treasure map, travelers can collect samples of sand, moss, etc. in a special glass jar and create their own souvenir. visitklaustur.is
Hoffellslón lagoon near Höfn.
Vík – Wonders within Reach Höfn – Realm of Vatnajökull Set against the awesome backdrop of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe, Höfn is the ideal base for exploring the southeast. Hornafjörður municipality is heaven for mountain hiking and climbing. Local guides take you on glacier tours on foot or by vehicle and diverse walks and tours on the lowlands. You’ll find Vatnajökull National Park visitor centers in Höfn and Skaftafell, from where rangers offer daily free walks of the park’s southern area. Famed for its lobster, Höfn’s restaurants have mouthwatering menus. The lively harbor area is worth a visit, as are the town’s museums, the new pool and a nine-hole golf course with a view of the glacier. Accommodation of all kinds is available. visitvatnajokull.is 98
The charming seaside town of Vík, two-and-a-half hours southeast of Reykjavík, welcomes visitors in all seasons. As part of Katla Geopark, Vík stands in the shadow of the Katla volcano, lurking under the massive Mýrdalsjökull icecap. The black-sand beach of Reynisfjara with a view of the wild ocean and the spectacular rock formations of Reynisdrangar, have long since become iconic of the region. Other famous attractions include the arch of Dyrhólaey promontory and its rich birdlife, as well as the easily-accessible glacial tongue, Sólheimajökull. Guests are offered everything from low-cost sleeping bag accommodation to modern rooms with a private bath. Three local restaurants are open year-round, as are all the necessary tourist services. visitvik.is
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Wonders of the West With glaciers, volcanoes, rhyolite mountains, lava fields, spectacular rock formations, white-sand beaches, fjords, islands, rivers, lakes and green valleys, as well as a rich historical heritage, West Iceland really has it all. Just an hour north of Reykjavík, the region is within easy reach and filled with activities in both summer and winter. Also don’t miss out on a visit to Snæfellsnes National Park.
Snæfellsnes Circle Stykkishólmur – Nature and Culture All in One Stykkishólmur, on the Snæfellsnes Circle, is a beautiful town on the shores of Breiða fjörður Bay. Among its attractions are the islands, shaped by rough seas and with the exception of Flatey, inhabited only by flocks of seabirds. Two museums are dedicated to the primal forces that dominate Icelandic nature: fire and water. The Volcano Museum features artifacts and objects from the collection of volcanologist Haraldur Sigurðsson. The heart of town is a living museum of historical houses and home to the heritage museum The Norwegian House. Outdoor activities include a swimming pool and golf course. The town was named a European Destination of Excellence in 2011. westiceland.is
Stykkishólmur harbor
Grundarfjörður – Fjord of Meadows The small coastal town of Grundarfjörður on the Snæfellsnes Circle is embraced by a tall mountain range and a scenic fjord. The breathtaking and majestic Kirkjufell mountain and the wild Atlantic provide an escape to an idyllic world of rural serenity. The town is vibrant with activities such as golf, fishing, hiking and horseback riding. There are also shooting grounds and an exhibition featuring relics of childhood from an impoverished past to prosperous modernity in Eyrbryggja. A Viking Village in the town center is the venue for Viking plays and a market. westiceland.is
Kirkjufell mountain.
Snæfellsbær – Dancing Auroras and Nature ExtraordinaIre The Snæfellsbær municipality covers an area of 684 km2 (264 mi2) across the Snæfellsnes Circle and includes the charming fishing communities of Ólafsvík, Rif and Hellissandur and the surrounding countryside. Attractions include several museums, whale watching, glacier tours and spectacular nature. The one-street village of Rif is perhaps a peculiar place for a theater but it has proven popular among visiting theater groups and artists. The most spectacular sight, though, is the northern lights as seen in the close vicinity of the imperial Snæfellsjökull glacier. westiceland.is ICELAND REVIEW
Snæfellsbær.
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Westfjords – Paradise at the End of the World
Remote, wild and stunningly beautiful, the Westfjords are truly a paradise for visitors seeking an authentic Icelandic atmosphere in tranquil surroundings. From quiet walks through slumbering fishing villages to adventurous heli-skiing, the region is waiting to be discovered. View from Hornbjarg, looking towards Hælavíkurbjarg, in the uninhabited Hornstrandir nature reserve.
Vesturbyggð – Go West
Bolungarvík – Home of the Seeress
The municipality is known for its vast landscapes, unspoilt nature and popular destinations such as the red-gold sand beach of Rauðasandur. Another is Látrabjarg, Europe’s largest bird cliff; home to millions of puffins, northern gannets, guillemots and razorbills, and the continent’s westernmost point. Activities are abundant, with hiking, tours by bike, jeep and boat on offer, along with sea angling and whale watching. The accommodation available—bed and breakfast, hotels, hostels and campsites—suits every need. Restaurants and interesting museums, including the Icelandic Sea Monster Museum, can be found in Patreksfjörður and Bíldudalur. Samúel’s Art Museum in Selárdalur is also worth a visit. vesturbyggd.is
Legend has it that the town’s first settler never left; Þuríður Sundafyllir, who is said to have authored the Eddic poem Völuspá, watches over the town from the mountain Óshyrna. Having been built up around the country’s oldest fishing station, Bolungarvík is home to the unique maritime museum Ósvör, where visitors can step back in time. The nearby Skálavík cove is a paradise for outdoor recreation and the town’s landmark mountain Bolafjall is good for a challenging hike, offering a breathtaking view from the summit. Afterwards, a relaxing soak in the local swimming pool— one of the best in the Westfjords—is in order.
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Driving towards Patreksfjörður, Vesturbyggð.
The town center of Ísafjörður.
Ísafjörður – Authentic, Quirky and Tranquil Ample opportunities await visitors seeking tranquility in serene surroundings or action-packed adventures in all seasons in the ‘Fair Five’ villages constituting the municipality: skiing in the pristine highlands, sea angling and walking through the charming old towns. Hiking routes lead from slumbering fishing villages to steep mountains, through nesting grounds of various birds, to magnificent waterfalls. The area is dotted with quirky museums and annual festivals include Aldrei fór ég suður, a free rock festival held at Easter. Shaped by the region’s remoteness and living in harmony with nature, locals are hard working and creative, welcoming visitors to their paradise at the end of the world. westfjords.is
The Arctic Fox Center in Súðavík.
Súðavík – Puts the ‘Fjords in the Westfjords’ Route 61 winds in and out of eight knife-edged and abandoned fjords on your journey through Súðavíkurhreppur, more than any other area of the Westfjords, with each fjord as breathtaking and unique as the one before. You can meet colonies of seals just meters from the coast, Arctic foxes roaming free on the mountain slopes or stare up at the vivid birdlife from the warmth of a geothermal pool. The charming village of Súðavík, home to the famous Arctic Fox Centre, eases you back to civilization with most of the services and facilities of nearby Ísafjörður, without the hustle and bustle. sudavik.is
Strandir – Scenes of the Supernatural In Hólmavík, the largest town in Strandabyggð municipality, the unique Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft introduces visitors to the supernatural, while the Sheep Farming Museum pays homage to country life. Both museums boast simple, quality restaurants. Having all the necessary services, the town is a perfect base for day tours. From the Strandir coastline, dotted with driftwood, the rich birdlife can be enjoyed, boats come and go, seals play and whales may even swim by. A walk up to the —town’s church or the cliffs above offers a better view still. In a skillfully renovated 100-year-old house, Café Riis serves delicious dishes of local ingredients, and the town’s swimming pool is good for a relaxing soak. ICELAND REVIEW
From the Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavík.
Ósvör maritime museum in Bolungarvík.
Skiing in virgin snow in the desolate Westfjords.
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Vestmannaeyjar – Island Hopping
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Clockwise from the top left: the Heimaey harbor is one of the busiest in Iceland; Skansinn heritage museum; view of the town, looking across the new lava; Vestmannaeyjar seen from Landeyjahöfn, the ferry port.
The Vestmannaeyjar archipelago consists of 15 islands, famous for their rich birdlife and volcanic activity.
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ome to 4,200 people, Heimaey is the only one of the 15 Vestmannaeyjar (‘Westman Islands’) which is inhabited. Boasting the second-largest fishing station in the country, fisheries remain the main industry on the island. Out of the Ashes In 1973 the Eldfell volcanic eruption buried 400 houses in lava and ash and threatened to bring life on Heimaey to an end but most inhabitants returned to rebuild their community. The effects of the eruption are still present. Signposts with names of vanished streets have been placed in the new lava, the tables at the cozy café Vinaminni are dedicated to lost neighborhoods and the people who lived there, pillars around town indicate how high the ash level was at the end of the eruption and the volcano Eldfell blocks the view that islanders used to have of Iceland’s southern coast and Eyjafjallajökull glacier. A hike up Eldfell reveals that steam is still coming out of its lukewarm rim.
Sea, Birds and More Vestmannaeyjar are also famous for their birdlife, particularly the puffin, as the islands are home to the world’s largest puffin colony, numbering millions of birds. Bird watching tours are inevitably popular, as are sightseeing tours by sea and air, walks, horseback riding and sea angling. Golfers favor the island’s unusual 18-hole golf course. The town also has a number of restaurants and cafés, hotels, guesthouses, a campsite and swimming pool. The only aquarium in Iceland, Sæheimar, is located on Heimaey and Sagn heimar, the local folk museum, is also worth a visit. Whatever you do, don’t miss the brand new Eldheimar – Pompeii of the North visitor center. At a distance of 8 km (5 miles) from the mainland, Heimaey can be reached by ferry in only 30 minutes from Landeyjahöfn. Flights are also offered by Eagle Air from Reykjavík. So start planning your island hop now! vestmannaeyjar.is/en/visit
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Eldheimar – new and unique volcanic exhibition
The 1973 Eldfell volcanic eruption changed life on Heimaey forever. The new must-see Eldheimar – Pompeii of the North visitor center, reveals houses that were buried in ash.
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ince 1973, the story of Heimaey, the only inhabited island of the Vestmannaeyjar (‘Westman Islands’) archipelago, has captivated the world. Thousands have visited the island to catch a glimpse of the volcano Eldfell, the eerie 1970s ‘Pompeii,’ and the destruction it caused. These adventurous explorers gave locals the idea of turning their tragedy into an educational attraction. After years of planning, digging, preserving and exploring, the Eldheimar – Pompeii of the North visitor center, opened this spring. As you approach the brightly-colored roofs sticking up through the warm black ground, you will start to notice other details: like the fact that you can see right into some of the buildings. Some of the homes remain as they were when their families ran for their lives. Plates on the table, clock on the wall, dry sink with tap still in the on position. It is spooky and fascinating at the same time. The new on-site museum adds a whole new level to the experience and will guide you through the entire eruption in a multimedia exhibition from a scientific, and also a deeply personal, viewpoint. Eldheimar also includes an information center about Surtsey. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the archipelago’s youngest and southernmost island, created in an underwater eruption 19631967. It has since been preserved as a living laboratory. The museum, which is open daily, is yet another reason to visit the remarkable Vestmannaeyjar. Easily accessible year-round by air and ferry, the islands make for an enjoyable day tour, but with all the necessary comforts and services on Heimaey, you might be tempted to stay longer. eldheimar.is
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